1/6 scale Armortek Hetzer Jagdpanzer 38 (Vid 05) Assembling the axle arms and 1st of 8 wheels
2023 ж. 2 Қар.
4 316 Рет қаралды
Join me as I set off on another epic tank build. This time the incredible 1/6 scale Hetzer or Jagdpanzer 38 tank by Armortek.
In this video - I will assemble all of the axle arms and also run through the assembly of the 1st of eight wheels.
Hope you enjoy
#tankbuild
#axleparts
#armortek
#scalemodel
#rc
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That loctite in those small bottles is such a rip off! Love watching you build what I can’t afford! Thanks Tony.
Hi Ian, thank you for watching and commenting. Yes you are so right....You don't get a lot for your money with these adhesives, but they are essential for the build. Hope you continue to watch and follow this build.
The usual careful video time is a moment of relaxation for me. This video will be uploaded at 9am on Saturday morning in Japan. I opened a bicycle shop and am having fun in my spare time from work. I am 63 years old and agree that dummy nuts are small and difficult to handle. looking forward for next time. いつもの丁寧な動画の時間は、私の憩いのひとときです。 この動画は日本では土曜日の朝９時にアップするので 私は自転車屋の店を開けて、仕事の合間で楽しんでいます。 ダミーナットは、細かくて取扱いにくさは63歳の私も同感です。 次回も楽しみにしています。
ご視聴、コメントいただきありがとうございます。それが私が達成したかったことなので、これらのビデオを楽しんでいただけてとてもうれしいです。うわー、自転車屋さん、すごいですね。きっと忙しいんですよね？自転車の利用は世界中で増加しています。はい、これらの小さな「ダミー」スタッドは扱いが難しいものでした。引き続き視聴してフォローしていただければ幸いです。サポートに感謝します。Thank you for watching and commenting. I am very glad that you enjoy these videos, as that was what I wanted to achieve. Wow a bicycle shop, that's cool. I bet you are busy? Bicycle use is increasing around the world. Yes those small 'dummy' studs were tricky, Hope you continue to watch and follow, your support is very much appreciated.
Great work Tony, cant wait to see the chosen colour
Thanks Steve. Colour scheme chosen, I am going for one of the Camo schemes as i want to set myself the challenge of doing something on this scale which I have not done before. Vid on that up soon.
You are slowly getting their. Perfection as usual😊
Thanks Mark, very much appreciated.
@@tonys_workshop can't wait for the next instalment 👍
Beautiful looking parts... and the tank bits look good too!
🤣
Wife’s birthday today. I’m thinking of buying her a Hertzer. Good idea!!!! Ha ha…..not. Great vid and love the attention to detail, especially the gravity fed brass bearings. Cheers Tony.
Hi Warren, I think you should buy her this kit...I think she will love it. What a thoughtful loving gift for you wife🤣 Thanks for your supportive comments Warren, it means a great deal. Wish your wife Happy Birthday from 'Tonysworkshop" Have a great weekend.
I'm from Japan. It's wonderful.🤗🤗🤗
Hi and greetings from the UK. Thank you that is a really nice comment and very much appreciated.
Loving the work Tony. I look forward each day to see if you have dropped a new video! Keep Up the great work Sir
Many thanks for such a great comment Adrian, it is very much appreciated.
Two things, 1) when using a tap turn one full turn then half a turn back. By continuously turning you are not breaking of the cut material into chips. That is why it is so hard and gets progressively harder as the swarm jams up the tap. 2) never use pliers to grip a bearing surface. On slip and the surface is ruined. You could have held the stub axles at the wider part that is non bearing. Otherwise great work. Steve
Since he only recuts the thread and doesn't cut it again, it's completely ok the way Tony does it.
Thanks for the tip Steve. I am only recutting the thread and it is through aluminium so quite easy to achieve, but your advise is duly noted and very much appreciated. I am aware that using pliers can be problematic, but I can assure you I had them held like a vice grip and they didn't slip and it just needed a little bit of encouragement to complete the tightening up process. I should have stated that in the video I guess to prevent other builders trying it. Thank you for watching and commenting, it is very much appreciated.
@@janhansmann9566 it’s clear from the video that it is getting harder to turn the tap, it’s either cutting where the original cut had not gone far enough or it’s clogging up, either way backing off will clear either problem. The big problem is that you easily get into bad habits, treat an m3 tap like that and you will break the tap every time. The threads tightening near the bottom is a typical issue when CNC threading, not running a second tap. Sometimes it is done deliberately to ensure the stud fixes tightly. Steve
@@tonys_workshop one way to get strong purchase on a round spindle without the risk of damaging is to cut a strip of metal, softer than the part to the width of the surface to be gripped. From the middle of the strip fold it around the part so that the ends meet, now squeeze the strip next to the part so that both ends of the strip touch adjacent to the part kinda like a keyhole. Now with needle nose pliers grip the two ends of strip twice the diameter of the part away from the part. Now start turning the pliers in the rotation you wish to turn the part. The metal strip will wrap round the pliers bringing them next to the part. You now have effectively created an oil filter wrench. The rotation of the pliers now tightens the grip and rotates the part with a fair bit of leverage.. it’s particularly useful for removing broken taps that still have a small stub protruding. Because of their three groves taps tend to disintegrate when gripping with pliers. This method evenly grips the tap reducing this tendency. Steve
Thanks Steve, good advice and will definitely try this again if needed.
Not to worry about changing your mind Tony. I’ve built hundreds of static models and a few RCs, they never go together the same way. 😊
That is the way we all approach these builds, me thinks🙂
The kits are expensive, but they are also a great bargain. I've done enough small projects to know how expensive fixings are at the hardware store. Another great vid.
They are expensive but as you say, you get what you pay for; incredible engineering and attention to detail as well as all the fixings you require to complete the job. Thanks for your continued support.
Tony: Enjoyed watching you put the wheels and axle arms together. Keep up the good work and can't wait to see it done and painted.
Thanks Bill. Getting really close to painting all the assembled parts and then really looking forward to seeing them on the tank. I think it will really start to take shape once I get to this stage.
Was strangely satisfying watching gravity at work Tony 😂😂. You can definitely see where the money goes in these kits the materials and lots of parts are quality ,I think for what you get they are in fact very good value for money 💰. A welding tutorial would be good to see 👀. Later dude👍👍.
Hi Steve and thank you. I will defo show some 'dummy' welding when I get to the top section.
Wheel in the oven bearing in the freezer should eliminate hammer
When fitting the bearings in the wheels rather than using superglue you should use bearing lock, also only hit the outer ring of the bearings to avoid damage to the bearing
Great tip thank you.
Really enjoyed watching your builds. But it makes me a little jealous. I'm a retired/disabled, just divorce 57 yr old. Who would give his other leg just to be able to own, build a operate one. I think the closest I'm going to get to an RC tank is a 1/16 scale. But please keep putting out you content as I really enjoyed watching, and at least I can dream
Thank you for your kind comment. I am sorry to hear about your situation. I must admit I find building these kits very good for my own mental health. they are expensive without a doubt and I consider myself extremely lucky to be able to afford buying these kits. I built a lot of dioramas in the past and had to sell these to help me get into this hobby. I hope that you continue to watch and enjoy these build videos as I am trying to show how novices like me can get into a hobby that can sometimes scare people off. BTW..nothing wrong with 1/16 scale, they are equally good.
Thanks for giving me the time for a reply. I'm pretty sure I'll be getting the Sherman tank in the not too distant future. Then maybe the tiger. Also try to get myself to the Bovington tank museum as much as possible. It's my escape from the norm.
You are most welcome. If I lived nearer I would be at Bovington on the regular. I do live quite close to the IWM Duxford and they have a large land museum there, full of tanks and equipment. My Grandson loves it when we visit.
I'm only around 50 miles from Bovington. I treated myself to the yearly membership, so I try to Go every other month. And do my best to get to the events days. Nothing quite like being at the very front when Tiger 131 roars past
I would love to see the Tiger in action. I have only seen it stationary. I have seen many videos of the Bovington Tiger days. I will definitely try and get there one year.
I'm living this build vicariously through your investment, time, and monetary wise. Thank you as always for sharing your work. Cheers!
Hi Michael and thank you. I am so pleased that you are enjoying this build. I really hope you do consider getting one of these kits in the future, they are an incredible thing to build. Thanks for your continued support.
Spent the whole video nodding and mentally saying to myself ' Yup, that's pretty much how mine went together' Only difference was I had to use a vice as I didn't have a large enough die for the threads.
Hi Daniel, thank you...that is actually very reassuring to hear. I understand that building the top section and roof is challenging😬. The Vice works equally as well, but I found that the thread can lock sometimes. I have a full set of Taps and was lucky that I had one that fitted the job. You should upload your Hetzer on your channel, I would love to see it.
kzhead.info/sun/h7J9g9x6cJOKrJE/bejne.html
I love it. Thanks for sharing.
Turn up the volume please hard to hear, keep up the good work love the vids
Thanks Edward, I will ask Ben(my son) who edits these vids to see what he can do.
hi tony, loving your videos, try some kerosene on the tap when tapping aluminium. i will send you some pictures at some stage of the various things i have built. cheersa
Thank you that would be helpful. Thanks also for watching and commenting.
Funnily enough Tony, I am finding your mention of tech drawing, metalwork and wood work is also true for me. I completed manual arts in Junior (grade 10) when I was 15 because it was compulsory for boys. I now find, at 61, that I am revisiting all those skills again as I build my HO gauge layout from the floor up! Discovering that I can hold a hammer, saw and chisel correctly after all this time is an extraordinary pleasure. It is also amazing as at that time I took two tries to get the pointy end of a pencil onto the paper. LOL Enjoying this build.
That is amazing Chris, shame they do not run these lessons at school now..Those basic skills I learned at school in the early Eighties, have really helped me in my hobbies. Thank you for continuing to support my videos, it means a great deal.
Morning Tony looking good the wheels are big! And bonus on how quickly they go together, i really like the screw hub caps I think its a great idea to show all aspects of the build filling and weld beads that can help other potential owners Look forward to the next one
Morning Gary, thanks mate. The wheels are little bigger in diameter and soooooooo much easier to build that the larger tanks. The screw hub caps are neat but there is a lot of trimming to do on the back to cut down the dummy studs. nervous times with the Dremel as it is easy to slip and damage the thread. I will film the welding when I get on to the top section. Hope all is well and you are on track to complete your build.
I'm not sure i would have glued the bearing in , Tony , as in the unlikely event of one failing it would be extremely difficult to remove . Personally i would have used a bearing fixer , the like similar to that of the thread locker your using . Another point is the fitting of the bearings themselves . Nothing wrong with helping the fit via a hammer , but i would have used a socket at the very least , that matched the outer diameter of the bearing shell . A drift of the likes you were using , is likely to mean a future removal of that bearing is more likely .
Thanks Mickey, great tips. I love the socket tip and will definitely go forward with that advice. Much appreciated.
That's exactly what I was thinking, use bearing retainer. Better than superglue.
Another compelling session, Tony. Count me in on more videos of welding technique and airbrush painting. I'm OK-ish welding at 1:1 scale with steel - well, after a bit of action from my grinder that is - but I've avoided scale welding so far on my M26. I heard a quote that "my grinder and paint make me the welder I ain't" on another channel recently which just about sums up my efforts. In truth using the pliers on the shafts didn't really matter as those surfaces weren't the bearing surfaces as that's the job of the 6000 series bearings, but it's good to keep an assortment of short copper pipe offcuts of different diameters with a split along them to slip over threads or shafts so you can use pliers with a clear conscience. It's luxury to use a collet chuck in a lathe of course but total overkill for a job like this. Also, if you ever find that you need to clean a thread without the correct size tap you can slit a bolt of the same thread size along the threads using a hacksaw to make a rudimentary DIY tap. Looking forward to the next installment. 👍
Hi Keith, wow, great tips, especially the copper pipe trick...never thought of that but absolutely genius idea. the welding on these is 'dummy' welding using Milliput putty. I will show this, but its not half as cool as welding for real.
A pleasure to find a new video this morning! I learn a lot by watching you do those builds, in hope to do one myself in future. I for example didn’t know that something as a barrier cream exists! What brand do you use? Of course I would love to see some welding done! Thanks for another enjoyable video!
Thank you, that means a lot. I use Dri-Guard Barrier Cream by Rozalex...it is a must especially when working with metal and glues. It simply washes off removing everything on your hands. I will film the 'dummy welding' when I get on to the top section for sure. Hope you continue to watch and follow. Best regards, Tony
Hi, Tony! Those leaf springs sure look sick, but I'm curious if you're getting decent articulation out of them. I myself would take scale accuracy over performance any day, but in the scale world of RC, leaf springs being far more decorative than functional seems to be the accepted compromise and norm. What's interesting in this case, however, is if they do actually flex under the weight of a fully metal 1/6 tank.
Hi Arthur and thank you for watching and commenting. interesting question. They do articulate on the central pivot retainer, but unsure how much the springs deflect when tackling obstacles. The Weight of this Hetzer with the batteries and option packs is circa 60 Kg and when building they definitely had flex in them. Early days, but it seems to perform really well.
@@tonys_workshop Thanks for taking the time to reply, Tony. Circa 60 Kg?! That's me aged 18! 😆
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Looking good Tony. Definitely the way to go with thinking about pre -painting parts /sections before assembly. My method with my Panther G build and so much easier. All areas are fully covered without the risk of flooding hard to reach areas with paint.👍
Thanks Malcolm. I agree, I know it holds up the tank build progress but it is definitely worth the investment in time. The parts all fit together post painting and moves the build on very quickly from then on.
Like the build have you tried a ultrasonic bath for cleaning a superb tool
Thanks James....No...but you have sparked my interest😀
Ah, would you use a lubricant between the leaf springs where they slide in the bogies?
Hi John, now that is a great point. I will see how they work, but may add some grease to help them slide. Thank you.
I’d love to build one but I probably wouldn’t get any use out of the finished model to justify the expense.
Hi Paul, that is a common problem with these kits. Some kits never even get completed. Once built you do need the space to drive these, otherwise they end up languishing in the garage or end up on the second hand market. Having said that, they hold most of their value on the used market. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Please stop whacking the bearings in by the inner race , you will damage them...strike the outer face using a large socket , this alleviates putting undue pressure on the bearings that they are not designed for..
I would consider using dry ice to shrink the bushing and drop the bush into the arm.
I meant the bearing in the wheel not the bushings.. @@fw1421
I never understood the fractional type scale for models and such. Stack 6 of those together and it's not even close to the real thing. I noticed this on trains before. Is it like 1/6th squared? Is it 1/36? Anyway, seems like a complete waste of resources and wealth. You could buy proper winter clothes for dozens of poor children. You could feed the homeless. You could help out a family that just lost their home to a fire. Almost anything would be better than flushing your money down the toilet like this. Hell, even if you simply burned the money it would momentarily provide warmth. You could even use the money as toilet paper. Thousands of dollars for a glorified toy? At the very least you could get the cheap models and not waste precious resources like steel, aluminum and copper. This is decadence plain and simple and what does that usually signify? Snobs spending more time and money on a useless hobby than they do on their own children.
I like to apologize on behalf of Tony, I'm sorry you can't appreciate a grown man enjoying building and driving these tanks, make sure you ask the same question every time someone does something that doesn't fix all problems the world is currently facing
It is basic Maths....The height of my model Tiger is 500mm, 500mm x 6 = 3m. The exact height of a full size Tiger tank for example. I don't think you understand how big these kits are, but thanks for watching anyway.
Good usual, I think when running the tap, a little oil will smooth out the turn along with backing it out some. Also, on the hub cap , why could you not install the studs,turn the cap over and apply the glue from the back side and let it wick down the stud. That way, there is no need for clean-up! Also I am curious as to why you use supper glue in some application, and locktite in others.
No, its not 6 squared, it's 6 cubed. It would take 216 of these models to make 1 full size vehicle, 6 in length, 6 in width and 6 high. Hope this helps