How to spot weld. spot welders, New vs old!! Future plans!!
2022 ж. 6 Сәу.
52 787 Рет қаралды
playing around with a new spot welder I bought and dug out a old spot welder and got it up and working. want these spot welders for some future projects and can make the work a lot easier
Door skin spotting is what I learned today! The extra plate on the outside is brilliant!
Sir, you are the best maestro I have seen teach in years. Thank you for your insight. I have been a bodyman for over 45 years, Your work is very impressive.
45+years ago I had a120 volt clamp type, I think I only used it twice. I still had a torch and brazing patches ,no mig for another20 years .I was not doing anywhere near the kind of repairs and builds you do..sure are fun to watch,gets me up and out there and I thank you for that.
I have the identical 60s Canadian made spot welder. Mine came out of surplus from the GM Oshawa truck plant. I love this thing! I use it for the exact thing you are floor pans and rocker panels. Having the ability to spot weld from one side makes it so much more useful
That Oshawa plant was the best truck plant. I had 2 Silverados when I lived in the Shwa and they were awesome.
Man I've watched a lot of welding and fabrication videos, and while I've learned something from all of them I find this channel and these videos the best.
Thanks,I have one identical to that one.bought from my wife’s nephew when he was selling all his late father’s things out of his body shop, never really played around with it. Now I know how to use it, thanks again for another useful video
I own that same porta spot.bought it in 78.amazing tool that paid for itself many times over
Ur a honest guy and make videos that are very clear and to the point thank you for your work fitz!
I've seen the little (modern) one in use, but that big old beast looks just the ticket for most things anyone would ever want to spot weld. Looks a lot more versatile - and talk about quick! Loved the finish it gave too....and you're right - the spot welds look way more factory and original than a smooth surface. Glad I am not the only one who goes looking for them on vehicles I am interested in! The old unit reminds me of an arc (ark? haha) welder my Dad had many years ago. It was old when he bought it back in the 80s and she hummed like a substation when he flicked the switch on the transformer (the 'old school' version of the modern inline RCD units that take the hit and cut the power in an overload or short circuit scenario). It could happily weld quarter and three-eighth inch plate and although it was on a dedicated trolley, she wasn't something you moved without thinking hard about whether you really HAD to. Damn thing weighed a good 120kg easy, I reckon. Did its job well for many years, that thing. Dad built a boat trailer with it for a mate of his who owned a 32' Pelin Topaz. He used a mix of three-eighth inch angle iron, C-channel and I-beam to do it. This trailer was the bane of my existence when I mowed our lawn, because his mate sold the boat (without telling Dad, who was still working on the trailer for it) and then went overseas for several years....so it got put out to pasture so to speak. It was the cause of many bruised shins, orange-tinged sheets (when I pushed it too close to the washing line) and caused our neighbour to have to take a trip to the local A&E unit to get stitches after a number of cold brews with the old man one night. In the pitch-black darkness of winter, he forgot it was parked between the garage and his gate in the fence and he went face first over the rear of it....but it could have been a lot worse - and just made my job of mowing the lawn harder because there was one less place I could park it! It was finally sold after 8 years sitting in various places around the lawn and as testament to the quality of the welding, it was towed all the way to its new home - some 120 miles away over winding hills in the country. Anyway, thanks for showing us those spot welders, Tony. I know of a few places on one of my vehicles where either one of them would be useful. Might have to look into that..... All the best!
You gotta love this dude! You always learn something new with him! I just picked up an old Miller Lectro spot for rockers….
Ha ha rolls canhardly bless you Fitzee my dear old dad used to say that brought back some great memories. Super video my friend really enjoyed it , im teaching myself to weld at the moment and I’m also in the market for a few different welding devices so this was truly a gold video for me thanks dude 👍
I worked to repair rust and quickie paint jobs to make a living in the 80"s and bought a Lenco spot welder and made me a lot of money repairing rust but it was hard work and the handles of the welder got so hot you needed heavy welder gloves to use. The sound made good memories. and I still have the welder.
Thank you Fitzee. Previously I thought a spot welder was a pointless bit of kit if I could do them with the mig. How wrong I was! The spot welder is so much cleaner and faster. I want one 👍🏴
You can't use them on any thing newer cars 1983 or newer becouse of the carbon content in the metal like a quarter panel becouse of an accident the quarter panel can break off... That is for the old style spot welder I still have one and only use it for small patches on think lid or wheel well or bottom of the door ...
@@peterrivney552 thanks Peter. I'll remember that!
Thank you Fitzy for that....very very interesting. Good to hear your accent from the old country. Nick from the UK.
Rolls-Cunardly, my dad’s favourite brand. He never bought one as we lived on top of a hill, but that is probably a good thing as I hear they suffered from poor rocker panel integrity.
I've been using a stud welder for metal shrinking, and all this time, they have spot welders with an actual setting for it. I learned something today.
I am going to go get one today. I started thinking about how many times I would use it on my restoration after you gave some ideas that it became a no brainer. Thanks for the tips, your the best. Oh, thanks for bringing up the need for a 220 extension cord, that has pushed me toward the 110 model.
Another great video. Keep it up your excellent work. Some tips to improve the quality and make professional spot welds with the ProPoint machine. For 18 gauge ( 1.2mm ) mild steel or stainless sheet metal the recommended electrode tip diameter is 0.216 in ( 5.5mm ) and has to be perfect flat, not rounded, with smooth surface and clean. To make good quality spot welds you have to make the welding electrodes to be COAXIAL to each other when the 2 metal sheets are between the electrodes & the proper clamping force is applied. To achieve this setting the factory supplied upper tong end has to be bent more until the 2 mounted electrodes get coaxial. It is obvious that for every thickness of sheet metal you will have to use different diameter / length welding tips & set up their alignment individually. Using copper spacers between the welding tips and tongs makes this setting easier. Sparking is not normal and could be dangerous ( proper protective gear is a must ). During welding it is not allowed angling of the clamped materials, The welded materials must have smooth surfaces in the welded areas, to be clean, free of paint , rust, grease, etc.....I recommend to make sample welds first , twist and peel test them using a wise and pliers and check if the proper welding nugget is formed between the electrodes. The goal in resistance spot welding is to melt the 2 or more sheet metals placed between the two electrodes and fuse them together. If the heat is generated between the two mating surfaces of the welding tips and sheet metals, due to dirt, oxidation, rust, rough finish, no proper welding nugget will be generated. On a good quality spot weld the sheet metal mating surface with the tip has very little discoloration from heat and should remain flat. It is important also to use dielectric grease on the welding tip’s thread, otherwise it can fuse to the arm due to the very high welding current. Adding a timer is also a must for good quality spot welds. There are timers with welding time compensation. These are monitoring the welding current and adjusting the welding time accordingly. I managed to spot weld aluminium sheets too with my 220V ProPoint.
Thank you for your videos. Some of the tips I've learned on your channel have been very helpful when dealing with problems with my own restoration project.
Back in around 1980 my buddy's uncle had a body shop and we used a machine identical to that one to do some floor repairs on my buddies 66 chevy winter beater. Made the job go very quick!
I'd never really considered it before, but lap welding with an offset on both pieces provides exactly the same sort of strengthening as bead rolling...factory style and hiding in plain sight. Everyone knows factory panels normally have some contours stamped into them for stiffening, but you can see how the panels you spot welded together have good stiffness along the length of the joint.
Nice to see the Porta Spot 2001! I bought one just before Covid hit for doing panels on a project car I am working on. By the time I get around to using it I will have to get reacquainted with using it. When I first brought it home I spent quite a bit of time trying different heat settings and times until I got spot welds that consistently held and would tear when testing their strength.
another very educational video from you bud,your channel must be the one to go to for diy restorers.
Hey thanks for you're reply Matt, & so fast too, cheers mate, hopefully fitzee see,s these comments on here, & he will do a follow up video of the inside of this old girl,, the old saying over here is just because it's new doesn't mean it is better, the old stuff is simple & more reliable, cheers again Matt.
Tony, the tips were "spot on". Sorry I couldn't resist. I should have though. I'll see myself out.
thanks for the video. spent a couple months searching and found a similar machine, old lenco panelspotter for $40 used on marketplace
using that overlap sheet metal spot welding method , sure opens a greater option to use anywhere , and not only on floor pans . great tips, thanks for sharing Tony.
Got that same spot welder from the shop I worked in back in the 80's.still works very well..can be used to shrink too.good old tool to have.
Rolls Carnardly..haven't heard that in years. Gave me a good chuckle. You're very inspiring and make it all look so simple.
Great video once again, I think a friend has one of these smaller spot welders and I can now have an idea how to use it. Thanks for the classroom type lab, I definitely learn more from this type of education. 👍
That was a fun video learned a lot about spot welding. Looking forward to seeing your next Crusty video.
That welder is brilliant, the speed you can knock out spots once everything is place and setup is outstanding. The amount of time you will save doing full floor pans is huge. Loved the tip for spotting door skins Tony, thankyou very much.
I saw the spare tip that you had and wondered why the tip to your older welder had a hole in the tip then realize it was because of the stud feature. Nice old welder. Hear is a suggestion but you probably already thought of this, Cut the old cord to you old welder about 6-8 or 10 ft. or what ever you think will work and put a new plug on the cable to the old welder then put a matting socket on the cable end. Now you have a usable extension for your newer welder. Nice tip on the door skin area. Keep the tips coming.
Haven't seen a "Rolls Cahardly' for years, made me chuckle well done.
Try to think about the name on the large welder. It is resistance welding. With the smaller welder, try applying light pressure when you hit the switch and then more pressure at the end and then release the switch. The heat will come from the resistance from the poor connection when starting and then the added pressure at the end will squeeze the metal that has melted together. I have a 110V and that seems to work real good for me. Also on the smaller welder, lets say you want to weld your tool box draws back together. You can scratch tiny spots in the paint on the front of the draw (like 4 spots)and use a sharp tip to make contact inside that spot on the metal. Then sand the back side of the front portion of the painted draw so there is no paint. Sand the metal on both sides of the folded side wall side so that there is no paint between the two panels and no paint on the inside of the folded wall. Then use a fatter tip on the inside so no matter where the sharper tip on the front side is located, it will hit someplace inside the area of the fatter tip on the inside of the draw. Then apply a small amount of pressure and press the switch. When you see the paint change color on the front, give more pressure and release the switch. You can reweld this way and not do so much damage to the paint on your box. My box is a Snap-On and they refused to repair or replace the draw, so this is how I fixed it. Another great video Fitzee, thank you for spending the time to show us. EDIT: I didn't know spot welds can be made without the two welding contacts being directly across from each other pressing the two pieces together. Holding those two welding tips next to each other and having it work really surprised me. Sometimes you think you know, and then someone comes along and changes everything. Thanks again Fitzee!
I was trying to figure out how to weld the door skins on with out mig welding em to look factory and you showing how to do it with the plate will solve the problem just wish I could find a spot welder like you're old one that would be the ticket thumbs up 👍.
I bought a Harbor Freight 110 spot welder and loved! I did the lower edge of my rockers. I had to hold each weld for about 8 to 10 seconds and they came out great! I did the length of the rocker in less than 5 minutes! 👍
there are very few youtube videos on the old two-hand spot welders. this is gold.
This is an awesome video! I had to do some rewelding of old vintage mags that broke and this type of spot welder looks it will work fabulously for my needs! Thanks for the tutorial video!
Great tips as always, looking forward to more Crusty videos.
Very interesting. I didn't realise spot welding could be done from a single side, I've only seen those clamp type before. I guess the biggest issue doing floor pans is keeping the sheets clamped together. You could use Clecos but that would defeat the reason for using the spot welder.
Clecos are temporary, the welds permanent. Alignment and maintaining a firm grip with Clecos, whilst the primary 'spot welds' are applied, seems a legitimate method to me. I guess particular installations require particular methods, like when larger pieces are to be installed, or multiple pieces are to be installed and correct/good alignment, is a priority.
@@elkoposo686 but then you have to weld the holes up after and grind back. Not saving much time and effort over plug welds.
Love your stuff!
Awesome job thanks for all the tips love your channel.
Awesome video. It's great the way you show how the two welders actually work.
Thanks for another great video, learn something every time
Great video, Fitzee, a lot to be said for old-school machines. I have a 1964 300 amp Hobart, my father bought brand new. I am still using it today. Thanks for the lnfo and tips. Take care 👍
Thanks for that demo. I 'awhile back I bought one of those old pinch type spot welder. (weights abut 150 lbs). Been eying one of those old spot boxes but really wasn't sure they they would work as advertised. But now I'm defiantly getting one. like you said the time it saves drilling spot welds, filling them with mig welder and so on. Thanks again for the demo.
I enjoy your channel so much. Keep up the awesome content! Your the man, far as I'm concerned! I've learned so much watching your videos! 👍👍👍
I have the Harbor Freight 110 unit. Had to upgrade to a 30 amp breaker and 10 gauge cord to use it. Now it works well. Put a roof on a '72 Cutlass with it.
Tony - I don't think the table affected the weld thermally, maybe 10-20%, not much if any. It's electrical resistance welding... it's affecting the weld electrically. With spot welding, the path the electricity takes is where the heat goes (there's no arc). If you have the workpiece sitting on the table, a huge portion of your welding current is flowing through the whole workpiece, spreading out, going into the table, and then back up the other electrode. When you had it on wood, the electricity is forced to go through the workpiece only, so there's far more heat concentrated through a smaller amount of metal because that's the only place the electricity is flowing. Frankly, on your door skin example with the huge thick backing piece, I'm shocked it welded at all. That's some good abuse of spot welding practices to get an interesting side-effect. I'm definitely adding that to my list of tricks. Also, I'm pretty sure the loose electrodes are still meant to bear hug the metal and be placed on either side of the sheet, not be placed side-by-side on the same face unless you have to. Side-by-side is a bit of an emergency hack with respect to spot welding. It works, but barely. Ideally you want the electricity flowing through the cross section you want welded, not just applied to the general area. It's a valid technique (for example, spot welding to batteries it's necessary, you can't be inside the battery, you have to be side-by-side on the outside), it's just generally inferior to "proper" spot welding through the cross section with pressure. You're going to create a much smaller and weaker welded area, with a much larger heat zone. But with a welder big enough and metal thin enough, you can force just about anything to weld, and that monster is certainly big enough. No "wrong" way to do things, long as you figure out a way to make it work. But in general you want to pinch the weld where possible for a strong weld that won't shatter over time.
I'm going to have to go looking at factory spot welds now. How many are "single sided"?
@@avid6186 from a factory? Zero. They have great big machines with huge jaws that can reach any surface. Even back in the 70s, they had huge spot welders on chain hoists that you'd swing into place with your bodyweight
Great information. I really appreciate your content.
love watching your videos
Keep the videos coming, love the content keeps my grounded with all the uncertainties in the world today !!!!!
Nice! That old school machine is awesome. I have the 110V version of your Princess Auto model; not enough power. Would love to find a vintage spot welder. Can't wait to see the results on Crusty!
Fitzee, you're just awesome! Really enjoyed this! Thanks!
i have never one of the older model spot welders but would love to have one i could see endless uses for one of those love the videos thanks for videos
You really are a true professional autobody genius 👍👍👍👍👍🇨🇦
Fitzee's Gakuen. (meaning Fitzee's Class in Japanese). I learned a lot from today's episode. I got to learn much about yesterday's technology as well as today's technology in spot welding. How to modify and save yesterday's tools are essential for long term use. Thank you again for teaching all of us skills and knowledge from your past experiences. Cant wait to see how Crusty's floor comes out. I too want to modify my floor on my 1975 Corolla. Till next time, stay safe.
Back at it with another one....I love that part
Always a pleasure to watch. Very well explained for beginners.
Again another video by the Master, Thanks Fitzees.
Cool demonstration, Fitzee! I learned a lot today, thank you!
Very cool video Tony, that clamp style spot welder I’ve used in high school shop classes but that older one is way cool and looks like it would make quick work of crusty’s floors . The tips are always great
Love the old one. My .02 you already have you extension cord either of two ways. 1) Add a receptacle outlet box onto the case of the old one wiring to the contactor in that machine or 2) cut the cord near the old machine an add a plug to the old machine and a receptacle outlet to the cord.
Plan is for number 2
I think all the lights in Newfoundland dimmed when you used that old classic spot welder!
Really neat to see how you figure out a new machine, why you grind the tips and so on!
Very interesting, great tips, really like that old 2 handed jobbee. Thanks Tony.
Absolutely excellent video
Extremely interesting & helpful. Thank you.
great job very good information
I used spot welders like those in 80s, n bought em both by the early 90s. My tong welder is twice the weight of that one. Life changed and I got away from sheet metal fab work. Sometimes it was easier to clamp the ground off on that oldie, n do a spot at a time. Old tin snips got two pieces of steel welded in jaws to step metal in short steps. Never did a floor job but did do a rocker on a 55 chev 😁👍 Wasn't a prob putting three layers together when ground lead was pressed towards triggered lead. You're going to use these quite a bit.👍 Thanks for sharing Fitzee
awesome job
Thanks! That was a really good demonstration on spot welding.
Great video Fitzee. I have an old Lenco panel spotter 3000 that I picked up on craigslist a few years ago for $200. Works great if you have clean metal and no gaps. It will scare you a bit when you hit a gap though.
You sure can modify and make one nice extension cord with that existing one to use for both units . Great tips once again Tony , thanks for sharing.
Very good show learned a lot.
I use these machines but a larger version daily at work. As stated below the correct way to weld using your big machine is to still have the electrodes on opposite sides of the metal being welded. It still works in the way you are doing it but it isn't as strong. Also make sure you go from one end to the other. Don't tack each end and work your way to the middle. If you do that you might end up with a pucker that only gets worse the closer you get to the center. One end to the other walks the excess material out the other end.
Thanks Fitzee...as usual you are right on time for what I need to know, I will modify the contact points on my propoint welder that I have had around for a while now. I use a 220v extension cord that I bought at Princess Auto..I have had it in use with my 220v mig welder to get anywhere in the shop. (just cut some of the cord from the old guy and put plugs on it)
I have the Princess Auto 110V spot welder but have almost never used it. Very timely video as I have a rocker panel repair to do that it will be just perfect for now that I know how to properly set it up !
Very interesting Fitzee The 2001 is Neat old tool Thanks for the information
As Always, Good Info!
Awesome video! Good info, thanks for making it!
Hey Fitzie. . Good video. Thanks for sharing.🍁👍👍
Really good info! Thanks
I got a small miller one and use it alot now the 2001 one you got there id love to have it!
I love the out takes.
Top video. Thanks Fitzee. Cheers. 🍻
Great video Tony, time to go out and buy a new tool!
This man is good so much,BRANE I WOULD THINK SOMEONE WOULD, NOT HAVE IT, i LOVE THIS BRAIN TO MY ONE.man he is good, I LOVES THIS GUY.YOUR THE MANS,
I inharited an old G.E. arc welder when I bought my house .it's got a crank on the top,to adjust the heat range. She works👍. My daily go to is a Hobart mig
Use a piece of refractory for heat sink I used that it worked great for me still learning from your show thank you
Thank you for this wonderfull and teachfull Video about spotwelds and the Maschinerie to Do it Take care have a nice weekend and a good New week Yours Frank Galetzka
My only comment about this video is that it was spot on !! Take care Tony
great demo, wanted to see how well these worked - especially the princess auto version
My brothers and I bought a Lenco Mark II years ago to repair rust on our cars in the 70’s. I still have it. We would put a line of welds in a patch panel. Then I would use a propane torch and melt lead solder on the edge. It would soak in the solder just like soldering a copper pipe. It would seal the joints between the welds to keep moisture from getting in from behind and popping the bondo off the patched panel.
Hi, Fitzee great and informative spot welding video greetings.HCS have a great Easter holiday.🍀☮🇺🇸🙏
watching from nova scotia
Thanks for breaking out the old spotwelder. I have never seen one llike this. IMHO, I would rather have the old spot welder than 4 of the new ones. It can go where the other Chinese product cannot.
That works well 👍
I've used one of those old ones often back in the day We used them to put patches on then we would braze around the edge