TIG VS MIG ON CAR BODYWORK - a simple guide on how to weld thin car bodywork - parweld
2022 ж. 30 Қар.
655 180 Рет қаралды
This is just a simple video showing this differences between tig and mig as if it was used on car bodywork.
I don’t go in to great detail as this is just designed to give you a rough idea of what involved as if you wanted to try either process you then have a good idea on what to expect.
Thanks for watching
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The welder use was this ⬇️
xtremeplasma.com/products/PAR...
Welding new sheet metal to 50 year old sheet metal can be tricky. The air hose is a must to help against warping but also helps cool the metal and less likely to blow holes through. This guy knows what he’s doing.
Tom, as a (sort of) pro body chap myself, yours is about the only channel I enjoy watching. No bull, no music, just straight to it by someone who really knows how to do the business. One comment on the whole MIG / TIG thing. I put my metal out bare, so there's absolutely nowhere to hide. I also charge by the hour, so my work has to be as close to invisible in bare metal as possible and very efficient. I settled on MIG as even with grinding it's fast, minimal distortion and looks really good. I tack every inch spending plenty of time making sure both metals are exactly level. Then infill the tacks to 1/2 in. After that I do full 1/2in runs, starting on top of one tack, running upto the next. Penetration is good and it's efficient. Quick grind to just above surrounding area, linish and move on. Good comment on not having corners on your repairs. I always think it's the most visual way of seeing if someone is doing quality repairs: if you see hard corners where there could have been a radius, you know it'll never be a top drawer job. Well done on your channel: excellent stuff!
Thank you for taking the time to write all that. That’s an interesting way you have developed them and I shell try it out of curiosity to see what it’s 👍 cheers for the nice comment. I’m hoping put enough information in the videos to help others wanting to learn. When I’m at work we get given set hours and have to make it as good as possible for the paint shop so I have to choose whatever method suits best at the time. Many thanks Tom 👍
I do exactly the same thing with 2 small differences, the first one is that I cut my wire before every restart, this permits the elimination of the small bubble that forms at the end of the wire so I can set my heat a bit lower, second, before doing my final filling, I grind my tacks flush so the restart asks for less heat.
Where are you located?
@@danmarley2926 Me? Southeast of England.
@@rusty911s2 Oh okay. That's great to hear. I thought you were in the states. I needed work done and was going to ask you for help lol.
Really enjoyed the “real application” demo start to finish, side by side. It just couldn’t have been done any better for educational purposes. Well done.
Thank you 👍
Amazing job showcasing the differences in a clear and concise easy digestible manner. And might I add, great work as well for showcasing on the fly. I always seem to forget the difference between the two.
High quality video and sound, great demonstration, straight forward, no BS, and very professional presentation. Thanks. I learned a lot. Cheers from an Aussie.
Thanks Aussie rob 👍
Bloody brilliant video. I’m in two minds now, thanks for that! I’ve done countless hours of grinding mic welds on panels. Thanks heaps for all your efforts, they are muchly appreciated! 🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀😎
Nice work Brian. Your diagnosis on the filler rod was spot on. A thick filler rod cools the puddle more as it flows in… so a thinner rod helps in those situations
Excellent comparison showing the results that can be achieved with both welding processes. 👍👍
Thank you 👍
The TIG side may have looked better with a little more material being introduced from a rod instead of just melting both sides together. Either way this is an incredible demonstration of the differences between these two types of welding. Thank you for taking the time to produce such a well made video.
Learned a lot,I have skills but it's the technic ,the approach.Retired hobby guy.Thanks
This demonstration was very enjoyable to view. The comparison is made easy by your effort. Thank you.
Thank you 👍
An excellent demonstration Tom. Very easy to follow and to understand. Great video!
Thank you Glenn 👍
great video! MIG has a harder weld, where as TIG is a softer weld... I use MIG when I'm welding spot welds which are drilled out, an inconspicuous spot, floors, inner fenders, the structure part of a vehicle, or where a door or window seal is going to cover it, I use TIG to weld up a patch repair panel, so you can hammer/dolly the panel straight again, and less work dressing the welds...
I like the demo of how to clean “dress”. Other channels seem to just show the welds on comparison. Great job.
Thank you 👍
I am more of a gap guy! I do tell any helpers I have, that there's plenty who use little to no gap, and have great results. I only started TIG welding a few years ago, and mostly use it welding door edges back together. It's amazing being able to fuse parts together with a little heat! Really good comparison vid. ✌️
Thank you 👍
Yes, a little gaps makes the bead flatter.
@@MrSticks9999you mean leave gap better?
@@kawataufik5098 You need some gap for the puddle to sink rather than lay all on top.
@@kawataufik5098 More gap more chance for the puddle to sink lower.
Great video Tom! I really hope the channel grows, you deserve it.
Thanks Simon! I hope so to 🤞🤞🤞
Very nice comparison between MIG and TIG welding sheet metal. I do like the results of the TIG process, although it appears to be a mor complicated process. Thank you.
Thank you! 👍
I don't see it as more complicated. Just a different process / skill set. Difficulty between mig & tig is about the same.
Having learnt both, I'd say TIG simply requires quite a bit more practise. You'll have to coordinate both hands when working with filler material and I'd you have to movement the torch a bit more precise. But I won't say it's more complicated.
Well done, looks awesome! Never thought to use air to cool down. I don't know if it's excessive, but what I would do is on each tack, weld a spot, move down, weld a spot, move down, weld a spot, all the way down, then back to the beginning, and it allows me to keep moving quickly without any concentrated heat. Then a wet rag if it starts building up. I never had any warpage that way, but like you say, everybody has their methods. Also I only did Mig, would love to try Tig.
If it gets you the results you want then there’s nothing wrong with what your doing.
I always advocate doing things how you feel is good for you. Yea we can look at the research and tutorials, and follow SET processes, but ultimately when it comes to the finer points there is no "One size fits all". Another sub
One of the best mig vs tig videos I think I have seen. I did have the question about can you use tig without wire and you have answered it.
Thanks fo watching. Glad you enjoyed it 👍
Quick out the door Mig it. First class TIG it.
Many years ago used to work in the aircraft industry and used TIG welding for aluminium panels, and it was the most controllable weld, so I would use TIG weld on your steel, and I would clamp a copper strip on the back when welding to take the heat away. Bob in the UK
Thanks bob 👍
Idk how you control aluminium. It’s quite a frustrating metal for me to work with personally.
Thanks for the video, excellent use of comparison between two welding methodologies. The elephant in the room for me is the fabrication of the small replacement piece, I guess that's a video for another day.
To prevent any warping or over heating I like to alternate from one end of panel to the other after about 10-15welds...Great video buddy very cool nice clean welds w/both mig&tig! It's inspiring me to get back at it maybe make a couple videos of my own!
this is what I was thinking when I was watching this video as well. @7:14 I was like NO., go to the other side, let that area cool down more. other than that, pretty much spot on.
Nice comparison! I used to mig everything but nowadays it's mostly tig. When fusion welding thin sheet metal I like to clamp a copper bar on the back. This cools it a bit more and I can notice less "sugaring" on the back. I'm not that skilled so I know I'm putting more heat into it than I should .
That’s a great tip. Cheers. Jorgen 👍
Tom, excellent no nonsense video..proper craftsman
Thank you Alan
Many people who do welding videos skip to show how to fuse weld. That was helpful. Now I know what machine I need.
Nice video Tom, really good illustration of what both processes can achieve.
Thanks rtech 👨🏭
Nice job, I usually braze all my panels but now I am going to buy a Tig and start learning that process.
You won’t regret it 👍
Air line to cool it down is a very good method. Thank you for sharing.
Very helpful video, thanks!! I think I'll try tig first, since I prefer the tig process for most other applications.
If your TIG machine has a pulse setting, this should in theory help you reduce your heat input and the resulting distortion, and also give you enough time between pulses to precisely place your series of overlapping spot welds. It would be nice to see how this approach would compare in your scenario. Using some .025" MIG wire as filler with the TIG torch would also be interesting. Thanks for the comparison.
I wonder what his post flow setting was if any with the argon v air blast with the tig.......I know what you're saying about the pulse rate, I usually only consider it with aluminum sheet but you are quite right.
Wait - did he reverse the front and back side for the demo? Confused.
@@smportis - yes, I think so. He wanted to show penetration thru the joint. It might be better to weld from the back side anyway, since the over-penetration will take less grinding than the hot side.
The hard MIG weld is also more brittle. You can get an easy grind wire specifically for auto body work.
I tell anyone who will listen that flux-core welds bodywork best - everyone rolls their eyes. If i wanted a pin-hole free smooth weld with least distortion possible, I'd grab my flux-core every time (I have fancy Migs & nice Tigs). I can weld so "cold" with 0.6mm flux core wire, still getting absolutely full penetration, it gives next to no distortion. The arc-on time is miniscule, fractions of a second, the weld produced is far softer than Mig - the filler material is softer - softer is good plus "0.6mm Flux core" wire is really 0.3mm wire - the other 0.3mm is flux. 0.3mm can weld ANYTHING without blowing holes. . Grinding welds becomes far easier. Much. Another benefit (there are loads) is accuracy - you don't have a gas-shroud hiding where the wire is hitting - so you can be utterly precise. The HUGE plus is cost. I weld car bodywork ALL day EVERY day - 7 days a week. If I can have a machine in hand that does everything I want, joins everything I want, doesn't annoy me in any way - but that costs absolute peanuts to run compared to every other process - that's my "go-to" right there. I now run a synergic flux-core - I hit 1 button, its ready to weld - I don't need 16 amp power, it will very happily run off 13amp (I have 16amp). It makes no noise (Lol - welders will know). I don't need gas. I don't need tungstens. Or shrouds. Or regulators - or any of the stuff pro welders will know ain't cheap when used daily. I chuck on a roll of wire, hit 1 button & I can - with absolute confidence - weld anything that comes into the workshop. I've been welding commercially for 35 years - I am a B.S free zone when it comes to welding. Our "Cost" has fallen through the floor since we changed to flux-core. Electricity bill is far lower(far). Consumables bill is miniscule - negligible. Money tied up in "equipment" is peanuts. Our gas bill used be insane - we were constantly going for cylinders at 100+ a pop. No more.,.. I wish someone had educated me years ago - I'd have saved countless thousands. I shudder to think how much money I wasted on shield-gas over the years through not knowing how to run flux-core properly. I now have 20 or 30 rolls of wire on the shelf, about a dozen tips of each size & nothing else. 1 gas cylinder would tie up more money than our entire welding stock right now - we used have cylinders lined up ready to go. More fools us.
Wow 😯 that’s really interesting James. What you say makes for interesting reading! And something I’ve never tried on bodywork.I’ve had terrible experiences with flux core but that was probably down the the cheap Clark mig? This is something that I will have to try and give another go. Thanks for taking the time to explain the process 👍
Isn't flux corrosive?
@scott mack If you don't remove the Flux after the weld. Wire brush takes it off in seconds
As someone who is genuinely curious, any chance of you making a video and showing us?
What is flux -core just need gaz and mig welding you prefer I am beginner
It's time for me to learn how to TIG. Thanks for the video. I appreciate you taking the time to show the differences.
Brilliant video, going to get my car sill done now! And, it will be rough and a little solid, also with filler applied to cover the crap welds. Like the wet rag application, I have set fire to a car in the past. Peace be unto you.
If I look at the heat affected zone ( bluish ) the result is about the same for both processes, one important thing you done is to avoid square corners, in fact, rounded corners helps greatly to control the distorsion. veru good video
Thank you 👍
Fantastic video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Glad you enjoyed it 👍
Nice skills there Tom. I've never mastered the no filler method. I like to start the TIG run with a nice fat puddle from the filler rod. I start it away from the weld & run it in. I get less undercut problems & can run the weld quicker. If you slow down you'll blow a hole though. 😅
Stick to what you know Tony if it works for you then great 👍
Great job Tom!
Excellent video,Ver helpful thanks Tom.
Excellent comparison. 50 odd years ago I remember old hands talking about "hammer welding" The penny just dropped about what they meant. They were gas welding of course.
Thank you 👍
Sorry. It´syour mistake. Not gaz. Hammer only, with fire.
@@zaverecnynavrh1047 you thinking of forge welding?
Thanks for sharing Tom 👍
Generally speaking, while MG is a more simple weld, needing much less finesse than say TIG or MMA, it is more of a dirty weld and not so pretty as other processes.. MIG does have its place in many companies because with constant wire and gas, you can just keep going. On the other hand processes that use consumables often need to be tied in when using a new consumable and takes more skill to get that beautiful weld. Personaly for car body work, I feel maybe mig is a good option as your going to grind/polish the weld away anyway..
Thanks a lot, it was a beautiful demostration, you help me a lot, hi from Argentina, keep that amazing work
Thank you for the nice comment 👍
Well done, pro work. nice video. Car body is rare for me so that was very informative. THANK-YOU.
Thank you William 👍
I like flux core myself, no gas, you can use a fan to blow away any fumes, it does require some practice, I remove the nozzle tip and can get in tight places well. Not saying "this is the way" but it works well for me. Cool vid.
Awsome product!! It is compact and vary portable. It's great when I'm fishing that magnet holds the dynavap in place so it doesn't roll around. I use to carrie a dugout and a pinch hit. Nasty to clean always clogged and sticky the dynavap pared with this heater kicks ass‼️🔥
Thanks for the info!
Love the Video.... Informative and No annoying background music!
Great video. Well done.
Fascinating stuff and truly inspirational Would love to learn to weld . I suspect that it’s like a lot of things, the more you do, the more you improve. I just need to get off my backside and find a part time course to get started.
Easy with the correct tuition. When I teach people i do a 4 hour lesson and in that time I can show you enough to get going.
.. Ace work, Tom ,. I'm enjoying your channel,.. Keep-up the good work ,..
Thank you 👍
thanks for the knowledge..im new and learning now how to weld properly.
I never knew how labor intensive this is!🤯
Great video. Informative and practical.
Thanks wade 👍
Enjoyed this demo. Thanks
Thanks for watching
Super vidéo 👍 Really cool to make this test Clean like this on a piece of car. I have also thé both welding 0,6 MiG gaz And tig and really is hard to make choice about qualiti. For me MiG have thé avantage to be easy and quicker on this type of work. Good job good vidéo Merci 👍
Yes I completely agree. The mig is a lot easier 👍 thanks for watching
thanks Tom. great video. hello from Australia
Hello 👋 thanks for watching and good luck with your channel
@@Metal_shaper_tom thanks very much!
I was taught to backpedal gas weld with a .000 tip using deox rod and a hammer/dolly. RG45? I believe. Cool channel btw. 👍
Thank you 👍
@@Metal_shaper_tom Yea, anyone beatin’ panels is Aces in my book!
That was a great comparison.
Thank you 👍
Great job. I need to learn to Tig. Clean up sucks with my Mig.
Very well explained and demonstrated..
I have to agree with the no gap preference. The gap takes more weld allowing more heat input, which can lead to more warpage, but obviously there’s people who do it the other way with great success, so definitely boils down to personal preference
awesome video and awesome comparison, I am teaching myself to tig weld for the neater finish so please please put out a vid of some specifics
Thanks 👍 Yeah I think I will. I might do a series from the basics up to welding bodywork
@@Metal_shaper_tom dont steal my idea lol, I have already started a series teaching myself in the aid to help others
@@DGRetroCustoms 😂 I’ll give you a shout out!
@@Metal_shaper_tom 🤣🤣fair enough lol
Had a 70 mustang in the day i was taught using brass coat hangers and flux , on the car. Beautiful work ,just removing panel is a chore expecialy rears.
Great content as ever Tom. I'd be interested in seeing the best way to form the depression behind a door handle on a door skin or maybe the recesses you get around things like tail lights etc. Although subscribed, I hadn't got around to looking at the consul videos which Andy had done. Have I missed the boat, or are they available somewhere else?
There good ideas thanks Ian. You’ve missed the boat on that I’m afraid I’ve removed them as there nothing to do with me and changing the channel around I didn’t want to confuse people with what was going on.
Good job. Tig is definitely less work once you have the skill. Seems many start on mig and end up working there way up to being able to tig. I started using mig due to it being a cheaper way to get started. And one requiring less practice and skill building. However I’ve always been facilitated with tig welding and how less invasive it seems for sheet metal. Just can’t afford a good tig machine.
They can be pricey but great when you master it. Hopefully you fine a cheap you so you can try it
Me too I am in thailand they have all rubbish from China and for good tig No available only 1.6 mm can weld with tig no body car repair only usei g old style 20-30 ago all panel damaged they they make arts with patty even the insurance here know only change parts I am stuck need 200-300 good tig to do a 0.5 mm secondhand I am happy any help Bring anything more than $50 they charge you %30-40 tax
Thanks for the video. Please consider getting a lapel/lavalier microphone for better audio. Cheapest one you can find will do the job.
Excellent job 👏👌
Thank you 👍
Great video. Thanks!
Thanks for Cooling tips.
Excellent welding! I wish I was as good as you!
Hey man! You are not MIG-ing, You`re MAG-ing. Round edges is a good tip,
So I'm new to TIG and never done any body work but I'd like to sort some stuff out on my restoration project. This video was great! I'll be subscribing! Question: what is the purpose of dressing the weld? I can't see a discernable difference on the camera.
Hi. Your always need to dress the weld to dress it flat and to release the tension after the the weld has shrunk the surrounding area. Hope this helps
@@Metal_shaper_tom that's great, thanks for the info. What you say about releasing the tension makes a lot of sense since the cooling weld causes the two pieces of metal to be pulled together.
I've been thinking of buying a TIG for body welding for a long time, but now I see that I'm going to continue with MIG
I referred TIG,less messing with the body,no heavy grinding which will also heat up the sheet metal and cause it wavy easily,then less following work.but seems like TIG welding requires more precise metal work like gap control
Very good demonstration!
Very helpful thank you.
Excellent video mate
Thanks for watching 👍👨🏭
I'm a total beginner, trying to learn as much as possible from YT videos. This was a great demonstration of what can be done -- something to aim at. What feed rate and current were you using for the MIG?
This is undoubtedly far too late, but realistically you will want to do a testbpiece or two to set your welder. You may also want to play with adjusting the distance of your ground clamp (from your weld). But aside from that rather vague recommendation. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable has already helped you out.
@@FixingWithFriends :: Thanks for the reply. Alas no, I'm calling into the void. I've tried various currents and feed rates but all I get is varying amounts of spatter and no useful weld. I feel like giving up.
@@FixingWithFriends :: Weird, I only received notification of your reply today. YT seems to have all kinds of problems with the comments section.
What welder do you have ?
I was thinking I wanted a MIG over a TIG and you just confirmed it.😊 thank you.
Great video! Thanks for sharing!🙂
Thanks for watching!
Just got one question after watching. Bit unclear whether this is a tutorial or not?? Nah jokes, many thanks for the informative content! I've just gone from flux core to mig in hopes of cleaner welds. Glad I don't have to deal with slag anymore. Cheers
🤣👍 wise decision I hate the flux core migs good luck with it 👨🏭
@@Metal_shaper_tom thank you
An issue with MIG welds is they are harder, hence more difficult to planish and more brittle. They are harder because MIG, even without rapid cooling cools faster than TIG. When you rapid cool it with air / water, you are directly quenching it, thus making the welds even harder and more brittle. Rapid cooling also tends to distort more because letting the weld cool more slowly allows the metal to relax slower into it's un-stressed shape better, whereas quenching rapidly cools it, locking it into a stressed state.
I like to keep a damp rag held up against the backside of the panel when possible or get a helper to do it for you if you can't reach it, like welding up 1/4 panels and such, a spray bottle of water works good for hard to reach places especially if there's a potential of a fire. I've been doing body/paint work/ welding a little over 47 years and have accidentally burned 3 cars to the ground. I can mig and Tig both ' still prefer mig over Tig and mig over actylen like we did back in the older days. Lol
Thanks . Only the 3 cars, that’s good going! I like the damp rag approach 😂
Добрый день. Я не занимаюсь сваркой, я геодезист. Но мне интересен процесс взаимодействия материалов, как пайка склеивание сварка заклёпка плавление.. для хорошего конечного результата нужно два материала соединить. И в вашем видео я вижу что всегда можно убрать лишний металл. Но сварка проволокой MIG даёт качественнее результат, там используется дополнительный металл из проволоки. 🤔 А сварка TIG очень филигранная и ювелирная. Вам нужно было применить проволоку в сварке TIG, тогда результат был бы корректнее🤷👍
TIG seems to be more elegant and cleaner in use to me. I might have to TIG myself up. Nice job on both of those sections though.
Thanks for the video. Very informative.
Thank you for making this
I'd like to see how you made that sample patch panel. Ty.
Hi Tom, very interesting video. I've a few questions: during the tig welding were you using a foot pedal? Also what grit Roloc discs were you using and what grit did you use on the DA? Thanks, Mike
Hi Mike. No foot pedal. I know what amps I need and speed I need to go hence why I don’t use it on this as I know how it’s going to behave. Roloc is a rough 36 and then a 120. Da I use 80 the and 120 . Hope this helps
@@Metal_shaper_tom Hi Tom, Yes that helps. My Miller Diversion was supplied without a foot pedal. I preset the current for steel to approx. 1 Amp per thou. I recently had a go at aluminium but find it a lot trickier. As the metal heats up I have to move more quickly so I'm thinking of getting a pedal. I have a small 2 inch air sander but I'm impressed with the results that you are getting with the DA. Must get one.
Хорошая демонстрация. Я работаю mig, необходимо много опыта и мастерства, чтобы сварить два тонких листа металла, чтобы после шлифовки выглядело как одно целое. Привет тебе из россии
Great upload!!!Great result. On the mig do you use argon co2 mix? I use only co2 and have been told argon or atal is better.
Thank you thank you. I use the co2 mix co2 by its self does work so I’ve been told but you don’t always get good results.
Thanks for showing us all that
Hi Tom would like to see you showing people how to do a patch with Oxy acetylene gas welding
Great point. I need to get a set up in my workshop first before I can do this
All you need is a fine tip and keep the flame going across the surface, not into it. I do it all the time. One big advantage is no electricity is needed. Just two gas bottles. Also the gas can be propane or even gasoline used in cars. You can weld, cut and braze all with one cheap setup.
Massive HELP.
Hi mate....enjoyed your video....I have DIY migged for years...gas welded many years ago....and DIY arc welded a lot. Would love to know....when you TIG welder the repair section....mostly used no filer road....did you still have gas running....I was wondering is TIG could be used like gas welding of years ago....no flux it shield gas. Saying that maybe the oxy/acet acted as a shield. The other thing that I would like to know about TIG....can it be used for just heating metal....say for bending or heating a badly rusted nut to help get it off.....both without any gas. Nick.
Very interesting to see. I agonized over what to go with for what I do, light metal and ended up with Tig but it is very sensitive to cleanliness. What sort of current were you using on that sheet 30A?
21 amps for Tig on 0.9 body panels. Hope that helps
Been fusion TIG welding body metal for 35 years, you need a thumb screw amp adjuster on your torch and no gap. Ultimate way is with oxy/acetylene, the weld is softer and will crush nicely in the wheeling machine.
Useful video. Thanks
what tools do you use to smooth the weld? (names)
Hi it’s called a roloc
Your pick hammer look just like my first Snap-on body hammer 40 years ago.