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For pla you really wanna use the smooth sheet. The textured sheet is mostly for petg and other materials.
I enjoyed the build videos and thanx for explaining the price difference in the kit form and assembled form. This printer has been on my Wishlist for a while, unfortunately shipping it to my country is a problem right now. 😎
The Sovol SV06 is a great choice and from the reviews I have watched its pretty on par with the Prusa i3 since it's based on the same exact model. The cost is perfect too $239 right now but will go up to $299 shortly. I'm really close to pulling the trigger but after all the upgrades I did to my RepRapGuru i3 I've done it's giving me great prints. Maybe time for a printer farm?
Thank you for all of your awesome videos. Stay Safe!
Thanks too, it is always a pleasure to make videos that get some love ❤
Great video. How do you import from your computer. I have an airplane code from eclipson and don’t know how to load it on my pursa printer. Thanks I know it’s a lot.
A long journey it’s been. I remember your first vids about the Anet A8.
Omg yes, why don’t we revive the A8 and let it compete with the i3 just for fun?
An ender 3 can put out great prints if you build the machine straight and know what you are doing.
Great video. Can you tell me how to transfer files from computer to pursa printer
I was really hoping Prusa would upgrade it, to still be using 8 bit board, mono screen. It's hard when a Voron is very close in price but very well made and you will feel like you got your money's worth
nice video! please post some comparison prints with your AM8
Good idea! We should do some internal contest 😁
One point for the Prusa that was missed here is the fantastic warranty and service you get, which is VERY much part of that price tag.
After a long research I think I’m going to buy this model. My only concern is the screen. There are $300 3d printer with full color and touch panel
Welcome to the club!
Hey! Long time no see 😢 I will get back to iPhone Scanning topics soon 😉 still love your app❤
The Prusa is a great printer. The Z axis initial calibration is stupid. I had to just print one layer, peel it up and measure it with micrometer and then readjust the Z axis offset myself. How else would you ever get the correct first layer height? If you buy a 3D printer you must also spend $15 and get a digital micrometer so you can measure things.
Did your Anet printers Evolve into this Prusa 😳
Did you actually buy this printer? I haven’t had a good experience with my prusa mk3+ and the ones that failed were the prebuilt units. But as a KZhead channel you will probably get better support than I did.
Just got mine, it's a pain to calibrate the z axis! I'm in -0.800 and I feel it's too low but according to the results, it's still too high. Also, is there a way to plug a USB A into it? I only see the SD Card option. Thanks!
There is a USB connector on the Mainboard. The outlet is at the top of the Mainboard box . Cable should come with the printer.
everyone who test a 3d printer on youtube says the same shit. "It's not bad for not calibrating it". Fucking calibrate your printer and the results will be so much better. why the hell would you not calibrate?
What kind of desk mat is that?
It’s a Vantage mat: amzn.to/3E8B2ZG
💕👍
Daniel, if I'd spend 800 quid on a printer kit, then spend 10+ hours assembling it, and the thing fails its very first print, I wouldn't be the happiest man in the world.
If you spend 10+ hours to assemble a Prusa printer, you get a knowledge. You know why every one little screw is there for. In case of a problem you are already experienced enough to fix it right away (with well written manuals by Prusa team). That's worth those 10+ hours. It's an investment. I like the way they do it. It's quite the opposite of where the modern society is heading. Not knowing about how technology around us is working. Assemble your printer and you become an expert. Not a user.
Well, I have bad news for you. For 800 quid you really gets a really fiddle-maschine. For a "it always works out of the box", you are more in the 3000-5000 quid range.
Hallo geilles Video ich denke der neue sovol fūr 299€ macht das selbe wie der 800€ prusa ,ich finde ihn viel zu teuer und zu alt es wäre an der Zeit ein Neures Modell rausbringen und ganz ehrlich fùr 800 € hätte ich mir den BambuuLab gehollt der Josef ist mit seinen Prusas Millirdär geworden und es scheint er hat kein bock .Mir ist der zu teuer definitif aber jeden so wie er mag wenn du ihn gut findest wünsche ich dir sehr viell Spass damit hoffe du hast fun
why does everyone print in .2 and .3, it looks so bad. I print in .12mm layer height. It looks so much better.
I had the Prusa MINI+. Mine was destroyed by human physical rage destruction. The damn thing refused to hold a print to the print bed. Time stamp 5:08 was too frequent for my patience. There's got to be something not right about that print bed material that prints struggle to hold onto.
Forget that old thing. Get back to the bambu brother! I had you back from the days of anet A8!
Do you genuinely believe it's worth $800 for a printer I have to build that's made mostly of 3d printed parts? I've had every ender 3 model and each had warped beds on top of other unique issues. I'm so fed up. I'm returning my $500 ender 3 s1 pro due to... you guessed it... a warped bed. But I don't have the funds to just drop $800 on a printer without knowing it's 100% worth it
well, I still feel like the mk3s is outdated (and overpriced) for '22, especially when you compare the prebuilt version with the Bambu Lab X1 for example. Take into account the MMU units and compare the setup with the X1 again, the winner is clear. Dont really get why so many people are going nuts for Prusa, if you look into everything is just a basic, middle of the road printer, nothing to write home about but well, enjoy!
While I do agree with you on the fact that the x1 is a vastly more advanced printer, I still much prefer the mk3. The noise difference between the 2 is just too much for me right now, but I will definitely invest in a Bambu printer in a few years if they reduce the noise of it though. My other point of contention with the x1 is long term reliability compared to the mk3.
Only thing X1 has going for it is its "speed". Its closed source, proprietary and is more unreliable as reports are showing. AMS' breaking, hotends snapping in half, crashes into itself, debris gets jammed in the X axis rods and seizes up.
The Bambu X1 line crush this printer. Josef is smoking some powerful stuff pawning this old tech on the masses.
Did you notice that the screen is one that can be bought from Amazon for around $13 and the knob that works the screen is on a Rotary Encoder you can get for $8.89 for 5, and that the mother board is 8 bit and you can get that for under $50. The kit is $949.00 on Amazon where you can get an Anycubic Kobra for $319.99 which prints just as good and takes 12 to 15 minutes to get going.
The anycubic is 100% knockoff parts and china made components. A MK3S is all genuine parts and is built with less than 10% of parts made in china. To compare a prusa to an anycubic is idiotic. Your anycubic will print as good as a prusa up until it starts to break parts, which is fast. Then a prusa will just keep going. My old anycubic i3 megs S had a broken hot end, heat bed, extruder and scuffed rails. all with less than 500hrs of print time. My prusa has thousands of hours now and still bone stock.
Cheap Chinese printers are great if you want to tinker and fix something… often… I don’t mind but I don’t put much faith in them being reliable lol
If you want to constantly repair and replace parts and solve problems, buy a printer with bearings, screw drives, cheap rollers, motors and fans made to no specifications at all from China. My first two printers broke every few prints and the quality was always poor. If you just want great prints, save your time and money and buy the Prusa. It uses the name brand parts and Japanese bearings. It doesn't just break after 30 hours of use.
@@NackDSP Try and find anything on any 3D printer that’s not from China.
@@NackDSP my mega X had a bunch of stuff broken with it too like the PSU, hot end, bed. I do this for a living so this was ridiculous. I'm currently getting rid of all my Creality and Anycubic FDM printers for Prusa. At this point I have 1 CR10 that I bet I could have bought a prusa for after parts. I found out the hard way that most of the chinese stuff is junk since they have no QA or real oversight on quality. I honestly regret not getting a Prusa sooner as it would have literally saved me thousands for my business.
no wonder why bambu is making such a huge impact on the 3d printing community. This seven year old machine needs so much tuning, even for a "plug and play" machine.
It just needs the first layer calibrated and thats it.
@@CineZoneYT it also needs different PA and flow values for different filaments, and many extra settings in the slicer. That's something the bambu does automatically. iirc, there is no other printer in the world where you can just stick any filament in and have it print perfectly without tuning the settings at all.
"This seven year old machine needs so much tuning, even for a "plug and play" machine" What lol? He built it from scratch and all he did was calibrate the 1st layer then had successful prints. The X1 does the same thing. And the X1 doesn't adjust flow automatically for different filaments. If I have a part and file that's sliced for PLA, I can't just stick ABS in and use the PLA profile. I have to re slice it for ABS.
@@LilApe First of all, the x1 carbon requires no first layer calibration, as it uses a load cell and lidar. Secondly, the X1 uses a small laser sensor in the toolhead to calibrate flow and pressure advance for different filaments. Since different brands of the same type of filament can have vastly different PA and flow values, it helps a lot.
@@morbus5726 ...it literally probes the bed, prints a bunch of lines and checks which one is best, then stops after the 1st layer and checks to see if its good. What do you mean there is no 1st layer calibration? lol. You can turn it all off, sure, but I can turn off the probing my a MK3S also. The pressure sensor thing is a gimmick, just like spaghetti detection. Ive been using my MK3s and prusa slicer for like 4 years,. Ive used PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA, TPU, PC, PA, CF...All of them over the years, i've never needed to adjust for flow or pressure, the slicer does that for you when you select what material you're using.
Wow prusa same price as a bambu lab x1. Thats exprnsive 😂
No one has a Bambu. It’s a unicorn until you can show me your working printer……..
Well the Bambu is made in China with a lot of injection molded plastic, while the Prusa is made in the Czech republic with a lot of high quality materials. Bambu also does not have the reputation of the Prusa with many years of quality and reliable printers being produced.
And the prusa is still better and more reliable.
$800 and you have to build it and $1100 for preassembled. This has to be a joke right?
Sir you clearly have no attention to detail