The 5 Filament Types You Need to Know (And What They're Good For)
Today, I talk about which 3D Printing filaments are best for what types of projects. This video is brought to you by Squarespace. Head to squarespace.com/thenextlayer to save 10% off your first purchase of a website or domain using code thenextlayer.
UPDATE: I have released a "Part 2" of this video, where I cover more advanced filaments... check it out here: • Carbon Fiber 3D Printe...
When you first start out with 3D printing, you are likely to print almost exclusively PLA and for good reason. PLA is easy to use, affordable, and great for maybe 80% of the things that you'd want to 3D print as a beginner.
However, as you get more skilled, both in 3D printing and in understanding what types of things you actually can print, you'll inevitably want to try more versatile, tough, or durable materials...
In this video I'm gonna give you a quick guide as to which filaments are best for what types of projects and how to choose which one to use for your next project.
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00:00 Introduction
00:43 PLA or Polylactic Acid
04:09 TPU or Thermoplastic Polyurethanes
05:28 PETG or Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol
10:36 ABS or Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene
13:50 ASA or Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate
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OH HEY THERE! Thank you SO MUCH for watching the video. I'd love to hear your feedback. Feel free to comment below to let me know any ways I could IMPROVE my videos for YOU!
Are you Jewish or just Israeli
PLA+ from sunlu works great for armor making at least, minus the low tolerance to high temperature of course. It's quite sturdy, can't break it with my bare hands with proper settings. And way easier to print than PETG which always got me troubles.
Have you printed with SBS filament yet? Styrene betaduene Styrene. Smooths with D'lemonine, made from the oils in citrus fruits. It is also used to recycle polystyrene.
@@binyominmartin3308 both but i'm pretty much an athiest
@@MrGerhardGrobler Printed with it? I haven't even heard of it! Who makes it
Would be great if you could discuss the more engineering grade polymers like Nylon, PC, PP, etc…
I can do that! I just got a bunch of great samples from Bambu Lab, Plastics App, and more :)
Adding another comment for the algorithms. I’d definitely watch a followup on nylon and PC!
I haven’t tried PP yet, but use PC and Nylon a lot, although for opposite applications. PC is super strong and stiff whereas nylon (especially without an abrasive filler) is slippery and durable, perfect for gears and moving parts.
@@thenextlayer If you end up covering engineering grade polymers, please include glass filled/ carbon filled pp. It such an underrated filament.
Zack Freedman has a video or two going through a ridiculous amount of exotic/engineering filaments.
You glossed over pretty much the best parts of PETG: 1. It has near-perfect layer adhesion when part cooling isn't used 2. Nothing sticks to it! It's perfect for moulds 3. It can be used to create watertight parts
I just used it for a silicone mould, it came out easy even though it was square with a bunch of mini cinderblocks
We use it for most of our functional parts. PLA gives good finish, but unfortunately the temperature range is too low for our use
Your 2nd point is really good, i never thought of that, but the first and third point is really bad tbh. 1. If part cooling was use, all printer has part cooling, why woulf anyone print without it. If your printer is broken then just fix it. 3. Unless your printer had extrusion problem, all print are water tight. Nothing is going to leaked through a wall if all layer are correctlt extruded.
@@giaopxyour point about water tightness is invalid, the reason it’s so good with water tightness is the layer adhesion, gaps in the layers = leak
@@giaopxthat’s false. PLA will definitely leak far before any PETG print would.
Advantages PETG: - Good sliding properties and thus useful for guides. - Chemical resistance - It's a little bit easier to get something watertight than with PLA
dirt resistant too, better for handling, better translucency, and if u cant print it fast thats a you problem- Dry it and get a better hotend xoxo ma voron does petg at 23mm cubed fine
I love printing in PETG. I needed a longer spool holder for my Ender 3 V2 Neo and printed it out of PETG (i needed the holder for a 3KG spool of petg) and it rolls *so* much better than the stock spool holder.
@@meky0 Good for you.
I'm right there with you. Any moving parts get PetG for me
Are you saying PETG slides better than ABS, PLA or both?
Just my notes based on my experience so far: Basic PLA may not be that fantastic, but some of the advanced blends such as Inland PLA+ can be phenomena in pretty much every way, including having absolutely insane temperature resistance when annealed. I have printed functional oil caps that live in an engine bay under tension with this material. TPU isn't really as hard to print as many people think, even with a bowden tube. It mostly takes turning down speeds a little bit and adding a ton of retraction. I have had very successful clean prints on a basic Ender 3 Pro with no extruder or hot end mods, and I have had no failures yet, even printing at about 2/3 normal speed. PETG definitely doesn't deserve to be put on a pedestal, but unless you need the smoothing ability of ABS, it's still probably a better option in general, and basically just depending on temperature and UV needs it makes sense to use over PLA. ASA is the new hotness over ABS and I think it will only grow more popular. I have yet to print with it, but I will likely skip ABS and go straight for it. Prices have come down recently and I have seen rolls for $21 on Amazon in recent weeks. Solid video!
PETG is great for outdoor items, like brackets to hold a small solar panel on the gutters, or custom wire clips for Christmas lights. According to my spreadsheet, I've only paid over $12 for a roll one time: $12.23 for a light grey that matches the siding of my house. I have never seen ASA at a price I'm willing to pay.
I printed my patio light clip ( the stringy type) with PLA, its been a full canadian years (cold and hot cycle) and they are holding fine.
@@versus023 Yeah, the channel "3D printing nerd" has this experiment that he's running where he buried a PLA benchy in his garden and he takes it out every 6 months to see if it has changed at all but it has been perfectly normal for well over a year. It's a common misconception that PLA degrades very quickly. Although I wouldn't trust it to not deform under direct sunlight, it's definitely not as "biodegradable" and weakened by the elements as people used to say.
I'm new to this space. How often do you find yourselves printing things you need instead of buying something from the store? Is there a noticeable cost savings to printing vs buying products ?
@@sibaroochi It's an old comment but if you're thinking that way, you should definitely buy 3d printer. I just solved my washing machine's drain problem with 3d printer and it cost only $1 for filament and 1 hr of measuring/designing time. Sure I can go to home depot, buy some PVC piping, cut, and put together with glue but it may costs $10-$20 and takes the same or much longer time to build the parts in my garage. I would rather spend the same time in my room with a computer. One day I made a leg extension for my dining table. It can be done using some wood and drill, but then I have to have a circular saw, drill, and large drill bits. Instead, I measured, designed, printed in 24hrs and the material cost was only $2.
Did you know: The tricks that work for ABS also work for ASA! You can put a few ASA cuts into some acetone and let it dissolve. Now you have a super tough bed adhesion "smear". When done, you print on a layer of ASA. I don't really measure, I just dissolve filament cuts, until I have a sticky paste that I can apply with a brush.
There's something worth noting about Stefan's analysis for PETG. His point of failure was the moment the material began to deform. While PLA did survive a higher strength, its far more brittle. In general brittle materials are "stronger" before their ultimate breaking point, even for metals and steels, but brittle materials are avoided because of their inability to survive consistent loads. Over time any material begins to form micro-cracks within in structure and those will introduce massive stress raisers. This is especially common for cyclic loads (like gears and shafts). Brittle materials will fail much faster in the long run because their cracks will propagate a faster, while ductile materials will be able to take a lot more and handle the continuous load for longer. This is especially true for 3D printed parts since they are notorious for lack of uniformity and have tons of pores and stress cracks. In general if you're producing something which will take a sustained load, you're better off with something ductile vs brittle. Using a shelf as an example, over time it a PETG shelf might begin to sag and slightly deform before giving out if its overloaded, vs a PLA or brittle shelf which will just fall apart very quickly. Also one thing I don't remember being tested for PETG was its behaviour after a few weeks. Hygroscopic materials tend to become stiffer over time, nylon filemant for instance will generally take two weeks before it settles into its final strength. It would be worth seeing how PETG behaves as well over time once it's absorbed mosture to saturation as it will affect its mechanical properties.
I got my start with PETG (got into PLA second) and my first Prusa Mini+. I loved the transparent options and, as someone who lives in the southern United States, heat and UV resistance is a *MUST* for just about anything you'd wanna print and take outside for more than 30 seconds. haha Anyone who wants to truly enjoy PETG absolutely needs a PEI textured build plate, as that's about the only surface that offers that beautiful pop-off-when-cool ease of use.
I'm glad you pointed out that PETG doesn't do well in high-speed printers, I recently upgraded from an Ender-3 to a Creality K1 and PETG was the only material it was having problems with. It prints ABS like a boss, though.
Good to know. I just bought the Adventure 5m pro and unfortunately I bought 4 rolls of PETG cuz I heard (it was most popular) but didn’t realize it wasn’t good for high speed printers like ours. Thankfully I also bought 4 rolls of abs and 4 rolls of pla. So far have only printed with pla but tonight I’m gonna try the petg and see what happens cuz if it sucks im gonna sell the other rolls before I open them to my buddy with an ender 3
But if you are on a faster printer you can just turn the speed down a bit when using petg? 😉
I literally have zero of these issues with PETG that you’ve stated, and I print 30-40 kilos of it a month in 4 printers including 2 X1C’s.
Yeah I print mass volumes of PETG. I don't agree with this guy or Stephan's tests of PETG.
Pretty much similar experiences for me. Once you dial in your settings, PETG offers an easier time than PLA in my experience. It's far easier to deal with stringing than warping, IMO, and PETG has about the least warping of any filament, including PLA. When you add in the fact that the thermal expansion of PETG is the best in class of these filaments, (leading to the most dimensionally accurate prints) great layer adhesion (leading to prints that don't break along layer lines as easily as the rest on this video), and solid outdoor performance, you have what's become my go-to filament over PLA. (I do however bring out the ABS when I need the temperature resistance or smoothing ability, however)
@@echo-hotel The truth is, that it very much depends on additives in the filament. This is why anybody doing such tests will be wrong. This always only applies o that specific brand and color tested. Never to the whole family of a material. The only takeaway is some broad tendencies which are usually common. E.G. PLA being more brittle than PETG in most castes (but not all).
As a newbie to 3D printing I found this to be a fantastic materials tutorial to get me up to speed. Can't thank you enough. Like comments from others, I'd love see another video reviewing other materials like nylon etc.
Very informative video! I always get big eyes when I tell people that my printer frames are printed out of PLA because it's the most rigid polymer! I really like it that more and more people talking about material properties to fight the myths that are out there. Good Job!
Perfect timing. Thank you. I just received my first fdm printer, a neptune 3 pro, your videos have been great.
That's awesome - that's what I'm here for :)
Really enjoy your videos! Recently subbed when I found your channel. Also enjoyed this video on the different materials and would like to see another one on the materials you didn't have time to cover. Thanks so much for sharing with us!!!! 😊
Thank you, I stubbled upon your channel well looking into filaments and I’m glad I did. Just ordered my first 3D printer and your video was a wealth of knowledge. You gained a subscriber tonight for sure. Looking forward to more great informative content in the near future. Thank you from 🇨🇦🤙🏼
PETG has also awesome thermal stresa resistance. I have printed small "train cart" with superconductor in the cavity inside (stop the print, insert the superconductor, continue with prinitng). It had double walls and over the superconductor there was chamber for liquid nitrogen (-195,6 deg C) the cart survived over 150 tosses into container with liquid nitrogen without any cracking or leakage.
Yeah, I think I also do not share his opinion on this one. PETG - at least for my work environment - is the only filament that's chemically resistant enough for prototyping, while simultaneously being cheap enough to eff up some prints or doing redesigns. Imagine prototyping with PEEK where 1 kg costs about $ 600. I thank the gods for PETG!
I just bought my 3D printer this past weekend - this video has been super helpful in really understanding when and how I should use these different print types. Thanks!
Thanks for the great vid! Very helpful for someone wanting to start in 3D, as all the options become overwhelming. Would love to hear more about nylon & carbon fiber 🙂
I’m just getting into 3D printing and have started following The Next Layer. Appreciate the detailed explanations of the filaments and their relative strengths and weaknesses. Would also like to see information on additional filaments like nylon and carbon filled.
Glad it was helpful!
m5c. I'm printing mostly ASA since years. Yes bed adheasion is the big problem. Not impossible with open printers but quite challenging. Big rafts help. Much easier since I use closed voron 2.4... The trick is the bed temperature and there also a equally temp distribution.. And I always start at least with 100C. I always have the first layer to the max thickness the noozle can do. Nobody cares if your first layer is 0.5 or 0.2.... Good video. Thx
PLA has another great advantage: It burns out with very little residue at temperatures of around 500°C. Lost PLA-casting uses this very property. Great stuff!
Yes please make a part 2 covering the other filament options. I’d say even do a part 3 covering exotic filaments as well!
Noted! Let's see how this video does :)
Very nice and informative video. I liked how thoroughly you explained the pros and cons of each filament, along with their usefulness. Based on this I, and the rest of the 3D printing community, would benefit greatly if you continued the series with more of the "exotic" filaments available. Oh, and huge bonus point for giving Stefan @CNCKitchen plenty of props when showing his data. Always good to see the community coming together for the greater good.
I'll do it :)
Yes pls
I'm a beginner in 3D Printing. Thank you so much for this video! Subscribed. Cheers!
Thank you! And yes, please make another video covering more printable materials.
Thanks! This video is the best simple explanation of the most popular filaments I've been able to find. I've exclusively been a resin printer for years. My X1C comes in friday. I've spent the last few days learning about filament. This video could not have dropped at a better time. Would love to see your next video on more advanced/technical materials.
PETG is much better than this guy seems to think. It's my go to cheap filament for indoor and outdoor parts. Definitely try both. Its insanely easy in an X1C.
Hello friend, I am a filament manufacturer, I think I can provide you with this aspect of help, if you want to know, I am always looking forward to your reply
Great info, as a newbie to the 3D printing arena I appreciate you saving me time and money with this great info. I subscribed because I want to see what other good info you will be putting out there. Thanks!
Yes, I am interested in videos explaining the more obscure filaments. Thanks!
Great video! Thank you. I would love to see a video on more filaments. There are now so many and so many blends. One of my favorites fir strength, stability, ease of printing, and toughness is PC-CF. I see so much nylon and CF but I doubt it is as good as PC-CF.
Great, informative video. Would definitely love to see a follow-up that covers nylon, PC and carbon fiber variants.
Tremendously useful presentation! Only used PLA so far but I’ll need some impact resistant parts soon.
Great explanations, very thorough. You absolutely have to do another video on Nylon, PC, carbon and glass fibres, etc.. Might as well do kevlar too! Thanks and keep up your co tributions to this emerging industry. 👍
You released this video just in time, as I just received my Bambu Lab X1 Carbon last night as my first 3D printer
One huge plus on PETG is it's chemical resistance including oil and petrol which makes it my No.1 material in the workshop
True.
Love your videos and your delivery style for the info that you (always) thoughtfully put together. Thank you not only for this video, but all of your videos. Heads up: I tried listening with head phones and only had my right bud in and it was tremendously quieter than the left once I put that in. Thanks again and keep kicking ass and taking names!
Ok. Now that I've had coffee and vetted my statement... Please keep the first half. It's totally true (your videos and you both rock! 🪨+ ⭐ The second half however, is not true. My headphones (and by proxy, myself) are experiencing issues with the right 'bud' of my headphones. You're audio is fine. #mistakesWereMade
Thanks man, this is a really awesome comment - I do it for folks like you!
@@thenextlayer your videos have been paramount to help me dive into this wonderful (and often time consuming) hobby. Something I haven't seen much of is the *what* and *why* the Ender (and clones) **are** budget printers. I have an ender 3, a 3 pro, and a 3 V2 but didn't (and maybe still don't) quite understand what exactly made it budget, ya know? Was it the stepper motors being lower quality, did the frame get made without quality in mind, what about them makes them budget beyond the price, what makes bed slingers so "bad" beyond mass movement? Are there answers to these questions at all, or would it be speculation? If I get one and want quality and reliability, what all is going to be necessary and what would be optional? Thoughts on a video going over something like that?
I'd definitely love to see the same video on the more exotic filaments. Thanks!
Agreed this video was very well done and informative and would love to see another covering more materials
Thanks for your videos. I would love to see a video on the more exotic engineering filaments (like carbon fibers (and more traditiona fiilaments with CF additives) and nylons). Would also like to see a general comparison table showing the +s and -s of all filament types. I'm using an X1 Carbon with AMS so would love to know exactly which brands (other than Bambu of course) print the best on the X1 and the AMS. Always tough to keep up to date on the specifics of each filament type and things change so quickly.
Awesome video, thank you for the info!
If you go slow and print on PEI, PETG is amazing for functional prints. It's cheap, easy to print on anything, and the parts will survive most conditions that humans and their things tend to experience - resistant to temperature, uv, friction, staining, strain, impact, chemicals, water. And if you want more stiffness, in most cases you can just print more walls. If you prefer printing functional things and don't need speed, it's a great default material.
Great video, thank you! I would be very interested in another video about the other materials.
Noted!
Amazing video!!! Stephan channel have lots and lots of cool stuff!
Great videos as always, I’d love to see some more filament types explained I the same matter Thank you 🙏 keep up the great job 👏
Actually not very great, considered that this is a collection of so many misconceptions and misinformation that it does more harm than good. About half of the information is wrong.
Great video on when to use different types of filaments. Would appreciate the use of nylon filaments on open air printers.
Yes. Interested in another video talking about those other filaments please.
This is both valuable and accessible for beginners like me: I'm keen to hear about the more exotic filaments!
*Definitely* want a similar vid (or vids) on nylon, cf, etc!
Yes, I would like to see a video on nylon, polycarbonate & carbon fiber blends. I'm thinking about getting started in 3D printing. Also I'm a relatively new subscriber and I find your videos informative.
Noted!
Awesome video and thanks for sharing!!
Thanks for watching!
Definitely would like a further video on other filly types.
Yeah, PETG sticking too much actually killed my stock bed that came with the printer, a perforated bed. I used raft there, because all sample gcode files used it, and eventually parts of top perforated surface started to come off with the raft. And it was a pain to remove as well! I think I got this issue on my 5th or 6th print, I now use the flat smooth bed that the magnetic sticker used to be on and just a brim, much better quality and material usage!
Grest vidio i keep coming backbtobit from time to time just to remind mysef about what i should be printing for projects 👍
Nice! You're going to really like the one I just released: kzhead.info/sun/iq9mZpWGZJZ7a30/bejne.html&lc=UgwEYHT1uijRzv2G7bx4AaABAg
Great video for newbies like me. I would love a video on when and if to use carbon fiber variants of the various filaments. I'm especially interested in nylonx.
Great suggestion!
Thanks,subscribed.Will learn more from you.
Very informative video and usefull information! Excellent presentation!
Hi, great topic, thanks 👍
My basic rule of thumb is I use PLA for anything that’s going to stay inside that isn’t going to be in direct sunlight or under a high load and for outside prints I use ABS and PETG. I have a Flashforge 5m pro and ABS is my favorite material to print. Because of the dual filters on my printer there is almost no smell, it prints at the same high speeds as the PLA+ I always use and just as effortless only with even better bed adhesion than my PLA. PETG I have gotten away from as it’s too slow to print and too sticky and stringy but iv been wanting to try the new high speed PETG to see how that is.. but basically I only use PETG now if I need some flexibility in my prints. ASA is over priced and not worth it if your printer prints ABS like a dream like my printer does.. TPU is awesome for anything flexible.. and nylon I have a roll of but havnt tried it yet. I plan to use it for gears and other high strength parts I may need to print in the future along with my own nylon nuts and bolts for various projects. Never tried PC either or anything carbon fiber though as I hear it just makes it more brittle
This was super helpful. I would love to see more videos breaking down different materials and use cases!
Unfortunately lot's of things mentioned here are actually wrong or misleading.
:rolls eyes dramatically: You're right, I made a few mistakes or didn't quite explain the full thing. If you know better, I encourage you to make your own video about it.
@@thenextlayer i actually did at least point out exactly what is wrong in another very long comment, which is constructive. it's not about the making of the video it's about getting the information right beforehands. We already have enough misinformation in the world. People believe you, so you should research better in order to not give them false facts. You did not just leave out stuff. You're repeating some information that is already out there but is simply incorrect.
What a fantastic video, thanks for putting it out there. TPU is my bane as a bowden prusa mini owner.
You're welcome. And ooof, yeah, it's near impossible on a bowden.
Very insightful! Definitely going to try ASA at some point. I've tried a filament that I haven't seen anywhere on any channel or anywhere for that matter. Fill X SBS. (Styrene-butadiene-styrene) More flexible that PETG but not as flexible as TPU 95A. Can also be smoothed with d-limonene. I must say.. I did struggle with bed and layer adhesion when i first started with it. Doesn't like low speeds, doesn't like supports, especially tree supports, standard works okay sometimes. 100mm/s worked well and up. ABS preset temperatures, even though its stated much lower. I'm curious as to what your thoughts are on this filament.
I would like it if you would do the follow up video on some of the other common filaments the average consumer would use. Being a fairly new printer, I have used everything in this video except TPU. In the next couple of months I will be using PAHT-CF on a project. I would like to hear what you have to say about it.
Great video. What do you use for watertight, food safe printing?
Thanks for the info. I am new at this, but need to learn for both my company and private fun :)
Hey... thanks for the info.... would like to hear more on nylon and other materials.
I bought an X1 Carbon for the company I work for 6 months ago. While we had an issue with one of the circuit boards, Bambu labs replaced it for free within a few days. Their support has been great. The machine prints so fast and well it paid for itself in 2 months over using our resin printer. All of the engineers that use it love it. I will be saving up to buy one of these machines as my personal Creality CR10S doesnt even compare. After using the X1 Carbon I wont be buying anything else. Bambu Labs is killing it!
Agreed.
No bragging
i work in a manufacturing industry( mostly beverages). we use alot of seals and orings . i was wondering is there any rubber like filament , and what of 3d printer should i get so we can make the seals (watertight) that we need .
I‘ve been printing for around 6 years right now and i see things a little differently. I started out with pla (like everyone else) on my anet a6, switch to petg, tried tpu and abs. Bought a ender 3v2 and also tried asa. Bought and qidi x-plus with an selfmade heated chamber and tried pa6, pa12, pa6.66, pc, abs-pc, pmma and some igus filaments (i150, i180, i190 and p150) as well as different carbon fiber filaments. For around a year i started printing with pctg. the more i got into these high temp filaments the less i printed with pla. My goto filament was petg since i finde it quite easy to print and it always is way more durable than my pla prints (probably because of its flexibility). I also was never a fan of buying the cheapest filament i could find so pla, petg and abs were always within the same price-range about 25€-30€. On my qidi i print every now and then some abs or asa but a lot with all the different pa filaments and igus p150. But nowadays my absolutely goto filament is extrudr pctg. Awesome mechanical features and a fantastic layer adhesion. Quite easy to print and the best all around workhorse i ever had. Gradually i empty my storage of petg and refilling it with pctg.
Awesome video. Please create another video on other materials and its use cases.
Thank you for this very instructive video. I used three ASA filament, from three different manufacture. One has a lot of warping and doesn't stick well to the plate. I have to print a brim to have acceptables results. But using the ASA from ProFill is perfect. The first time, I didn't notice that it was not PLA. It's as simple to print as PLA, just the printing temperature should be 240 °C or 250 °C and bed temperature 70 °C or 80 °C. The I tested the ASA from Sprectrum, which is also very good. It is also as easy to print as PLA. So the kind of ASA you use can change the result a lot. I would like to see comparisons to find the "strongest" material, sometimes I need one.
I actually use pla+ for some custom pc fan exhaust ducting and it works fine (petg wouldnt have printed well with the geometry). However i also used it to replace the ikea wardrobe rail in my pax wardrobe and it deteriorated over a couple of months. Printed the same model in petg and its been fine.
thanks man . def wanna see more on carbon fiber and other filament
Yep, please! create a new video with all the other materials. this video si amazing! thanks!!!
Grest vid. Im definitely interested in PC and CF materials. Such a video would be really applicable for us growing group of Bambu X1C owners.
Great content in this video, thanks. I’d appreciate another video on other materials too. I do primarily functional outdoor and underwater parts so my main filaments are PETG, ASA, and TPU. I use, to a lesser extent, PC-CF, PET-CF, PETG-CF, PP, TPE, IGus I150, and Nonoilen. It would be great to know how other polymers/copolymers compare in terms of uses and printability. I do find warping on tall (>4 cm) and large (>20 cm) PETG parts to be a problem, tall and medium sized parts (>10 cm) in ASA and PP are not possible due to excessive warping. Bed adhesion for ASA is terrible, bed adhesion for PP and TPE is non-existent. Magigoo, in all its variants, helps but not enough. PP will stick to packing tape but it takes forever to clean up the mess on the plate after and large parts will rip the tape off the bed. TPE ( filaments.ca) just won’t stick to anything but when it occasionally prints the parts are awesome for flexibility and grip, really wish I could print it consistently. Print speed vs inter-layer adhesion in PETG and ASA are issues in functional parts too.
Thanks for the comment :)
Would love to see a video on engineering-grade filaments such as carbon-fiber blends, pc, pp, etc.
Very informative video for a newb here. Thank you.
Hi there, I use a lot of ASA (in an enclosed printer). The bed adhesion is solved using a G10 (garoçite bed) heated ovre 100 celcius (I use 105)
When you have filaments that are having a hard time sticking, might something like a rough grained paper allow the melted filament to adhere a disposable base layer from which the print proper can proceed? Might such a thing help do away with the need for a heated base? I'm assuming that bases are heated to allow the first layer to melt and conform with the base, providing a stable platform to print from. Using something like a semi-porous paper might offer a similar function, be it a tad less recyclable.
My Ender 3v2 is located in our garage, which during very sunny days can become pretty warm, and in an enclosure. Last year I got a whole lot of issues during the summer while printing PLA. Failed prints which I later discovered were due to heat creep. Even opening up the enclosure didn;t help a lot. So I have to print PETG or ABS during the summer and keep the PLA prints for the colder times of the year.
Excellent video and very helpful. One suggestion for future comparison bids would be to finish with a summary. It's hard to keep the pros and cons straight for several products, well, for me anyway.
I'm not sure if this would be of benefit to you, or others reading these comments, but I used to have issues with ASA bed adhesion as well when using the default bed temps in the Bambu Studio slicer....bumping those bed temps up to 100c literally solved ALL of my adhesion issues..... give that a try, if you've been using the stock settings of most slicers, which I believe is usually 85-90c
Subbed. Stoked to see future content. Please do a video on printing things that can be water proof and non-toxic(ish) to plants.
You got it I’ll try to
Great video! Thanks!
great vid .. good topic .. please do a vid with the other filament types ..keep on the good work
Thanks, will do!
I'm glad you mentioned the harmful fumes from ABS. I would not recommend staying in a room where an open printer is printing no matter what material is used. Regarding ASA print bed adhesion, my experience with Prusa ASA is that it sticks too well. I'm having a hard time getting it off the heatbed.
Bingo. I'm doing an upcoming video on air quality for just this reason.
Actually exactly the video I didn't know I was looking for 😁
This is great info. I’ve been on the PETG bandwagon forever. I need to give this ASA stuff a shot!
I'd like to know witch is your opinion over nylon filant. Thanks for video!
Yes, please go over the other filament types :)
Great video great tips on the filament
I've got 2 kgs of PETG in two colors, sicne they cost around 2 times less than even PLA. That was an easy choice for me, this amount of material will be enough for a long time considering my printer's speed. My next type of filament will be TPU, and I'll try to get some PLA (I enjoyed printing with the test sample that came with my printer)
I would love to save your video to my 3D printing playlist but cannot :( great video though! very informative! I am using some ASA from Overture that seems to be working fine in the X1. I use the Elmer's glue stick. Which consequently when I use this glue stick on the cool bed side it really does not want to let go :(
This is a great video and I will really appreciate it, if we could have a video also for more engineering materials like Nylon, PAHT, PC, PEEK, and CF blends. And probably a video for the support materials like HiPS, PVA etc.
Could you do a vid on vapour smoothing please In addition to this , what would you suggest be used to make slot car bodies and chassis, both need impact resistance, the body needs to be smooth and needs to be painted, I know you can paint ABS The chassis need to be resistant to some flex, oils from lubricating moving parts and allowing superglue to bond like a magnet or lead weight to it I look forward to your comment
TPU is an amazing filament for endurance creations. Just bump it up to 30-50% infill and it’s not as bendy as normal, but endures more. This use for TPU is very interesting, because it actually ties back to real studies on how flexible materials are more difficult to break than the hardest thing on earth: diamond.
So far I've only used TPU for two things: A replacement cap retainer for my Camebak Chute (the original one used a too stiff material, so it broke after less than two years), and when an old wheelbarrow needed a new tyre+tube which I was unable to find in the right dimension: I ended up buying a complete new wheel, but the original axle was a "non-standard" dimension so I printed two bushings in TPU at 50% infill. Seems to work fine so far - if they fail I'll try again with higher infill.
@@koma-k Dude I printed some gaskets from cheap TPU and it is INSANE how tough it is, including trying to cut it.
the only issue with that is TPU can only be printed so fast, especially on extruders with a less well constrained filament path. Heck, I'm printing TPU quite fast now on my new Sovol SV06+ but it will still print PLA 2-3 times faster
@@PAPO1990 I really want an SV06 Plus. On my Ender 3 Pro I can get up to around 30-40mm/s with TPU. Obviously I know flow rate is the key factor, but as a general point of reference. Have gone up to 0.24mm layers.
Well yes, hardness != toughness
Nice vid - thx for sharing
Thank you for this video. If I could suggest ideas for other videos, yes one for the other filament types like PC would be interesting. But a subject that would be interesting because it is hard to understand is about toxicity. I have a bambu lab x1c in my basement (not a great ventilation there) and I read about particules, VOC (mostly with ASA and ABS), the enclose printer from Bambu not air thight enough.... I found the bentobox ventilation like you showed on this video (is it reliable enough??)... If you have some time, my daughter's health and mine would thank you a lot. :)
Excellent video, very well explained, I am new to 3D printing but was hesitant about buying and trying PETG due to all the troubles associated with it, PLA seems to the right material in most cases then
I LOATHE PETG, it makes swapping filaments a nightmare if you're trying to go back to PLA.
I'm new to 3D printing and I have a Bambu X1C and I share the same experience as described with PETG. It's been a pain in the ass to print. ASA has become my favorite (I haven't tried ABS yet)
As he pointed out, part of the problem with PETG is the speed. The X1C in particular *wants* to go way faster than PETG will really allow. You have to go out of your way to tune for maximum flow rate and plug that into the slicer so that it plays nice. That being said, Ive found that setting the maximum flow rate, and then turning the printer to Ludacris speed does perfectly fine for some reason.