Fred the Sprite become a 'hot' rod!!
2020 ж. 7 Нау.
39 011 Рет қаралды
Took the tired old 948cc a Series out of my Austin Healey Sprite, put disc brakes on, a bored out 1380cc A series and the conversion to Datsun 210 5 speed gearbox..
Took the tired old 948cc a Series out of my Austin Healey Sprite, put disc brakes on, a bored out 1380cc A series and the conversion to Datsun 210 5 speed gearbox..
Just bought a 45 yr old midget. Very little engineering knowledge so eating up videos right now. What a great channel - just lost an hour of my life watching you! Subscribed and looking forward to catching up regularly.
What a great project. please get it tuned on a rolling road, that will unleash all the possible horsepower and make it run so much better. tuning it by 'ear' is just good enough to get it running. I have a later sprite with a similar upgrade, i love it to death!
I was an MG Midget owner when I was 16 (45 years ago) and loved it and had buddies with the Sprite in the US. Your conversion is so impressive. Wish I still had the Midget.
Same here (and same age). I had a MK2 Midget (1100cc) and put a Frogeye body on it and a 1275cc motor, ported with a lumpy cam. Added coil overs to the rear and it transformed the car. Like you I wish I still had it.
Webers work very well on my Imp based race Davrian. I have twins on it, 1040 block, but getting it to run defeated one of Lord March's mechanics (he was a bit young) so I rang a pal who is a long time racer and garage owner, he came round immediately (on a Sunday!), spent 20 minutes with stethoscope and long screwdriver and it ran beautifully. He left, refusing payment. It qualified 7th out of 32 at Nogaro on its debut test! I'd never seen the track, the other drivers were all seasoned Historic 'pilotes'. The Imp has a non crossflow head and I had no flat spots.... Get a real Weber expert to set it up, preferably on a rolling dyno.
See following videos.. set up and more. Thanks for watching!
Love this reply, gorgeous detail!
Just caught up with this channel, I own a MK4 Sprite, fitted with an engine with a similar spec to yours, still got the rattly 4 speed box and twin Su's, dyno test indicated around 82 BHP, which makes it a little lively. I had fuel starvation issues, I got rid of the SU pump years ago, so now have a Facet pump fitted. Nice car!
I've got a '58 A35 with a bored-out engine and a Ford five-speeder. An A35 is a Sprite wearing an overcoat, the Sprite is an A35 with running shoes. Same kind of thing but with a tin top and a bit more space. The looks resemble a Jaguar D-Type, and the Maniflow exhaust gives a great sound. On a dark night, you'd think my Austin is a D-Type howling down the Mulsanne straight, but it helps if you're half-blind and partially deaf.
Oh wow Jack! Great to see Fred back again 😍
He’s a lovable chap!
Great video. Hope you get Fred running a bit better. That engine sounds fantastic. That’s going to be such a fun car when he’s sorted.👍
Thanks buddy! Yes he needs a bit of work still!!
Can’t wait to see the testride 👍
I'd love to have a go at doing up an old car.... maybe one day! Loved the video Jack 😉
Thanks buddy!!
Superb, can’t wait to see and hear her in full on mode, awesome #27
Sounds like the absolute perfect combination for the ideal, usable (not to mention, quick) Sprogeyed Fright! Hope you get all the teething problems sorted, loved the video
Thanks for watching!!
My brother has a Spitfire using a B210 engine and 240z 5 speed trans .He had to custom make an adapter for the speedo cable. Electronic fuel pump, combo clutch plate and disc. custom radiator , temp and oil pressure guage. and now must custom make a drive shaft.
Great to see you back.
Thank you!
1963 Perth Australis. Mk1 sprite. I fitted 2300cc holden motor 3 spiid box. Tripple sus, bored balnced lighth fly wheel cam head ported polished larger valves extractors . Very quick. Cut down holden rear axle and holden brakes and wheels all way round. Pirelli cinturato tyres. Head Lights in guards. Very quick road car and stuck on road like the white line. Faster than etype and fork falcon shaker in quarter mile. Sold and new owner changed motor to holden worked eh motor. 10.2 second standin quarter. Awesome body to make changes too
Tune by ear is only for a smooth idle. That Weber needs comprehensive jet, Venturi, emulsion tube, etc work. Good luck!
Lovely Jubbly, one of the best on here.
Very kind as always Paul!
Just starting on your back-catalogue and, much as I like your newer stuff, these earlier, more hand-on videos are even better. .
I have a MGA, which I put in a 5 bearing Bee engine bored to 1950cc with a HRG Cross Flow Head. Similar problems to you, it took me ages to get the A running smoothly. Its got enough BHP with a 5 speed box but it was a bit of trial and error with the diff ratio. Sorry to hear the 964 has gone 😢
How can anyone not smile looking at Fred 🙂
Thanks buddy!!
@@Number27 Definitely sounds like a fuelling issue in my humble. Higher rate fuel pump would be a cheap enough fix and good to have anyway.
Nice job Jack. I had similar small issues when i went to a 1950cc engine in my MGB. It does sound like a fueling issue but is likely a combination of timing and fuel/air mixture too. All I can suggest is to make small separate tweeks so as to not lose your 'baseline' and hopefully you will find the sweet spot soon enough. I can recommend the Gunson Colortune Kit and the Gunson Carb Balancer to get these in sync with each other. Good luck and keep us posted.
I'm having a similar issue after installing a Weber 45 dcoe on my 1098. I also added a 1275 head and racing cam. Sounds amazing but can't give it heavy gas or it stalls. I'm going to adjust the timing and also play with the air/fuel ratio. It could be jets but I changed them around and didn't make any difference.
Thinking of building a Westfield XI which would use parts from a Spridget. I def want to go with the 1275 and maybe 5 speed.
definately recommend a 5 speed, mine got the ford T9, love it.
I had a 1340cc Mini and was advised against a single 40 DCOE. 45 was the way to go...
I had a 45 DCOE on my 1400 mini, as per Dave Vizards book 'Tuning the A series' ... fitted a long manifold meant a bulkhead modification. The cabin used to pong of petrol, but at least sit smelt nice (unlike diesel)
I'm looking to do the sane thing. I have a 1380 Datsun and 5 speed just standing by but haven't beu gun the installation. I'd sure like to know more about the clutch slave cylinder bleeder. Thank you.... Don
Hi Can you tell e if your new master cylinder is a bigger bore,if so where did you sauce it.if not why did you change it? Thanks for sharing!
Could you tell me which slave cylinder you used with the Datsun B210 transmission? Thank you!
Oh my I know how you felt removing the master cylinder. I just took mine out and what hell it gave me
im having mad problems with my clutch since changing the master cylinder to sort the brakes out...
What adapter did you use for a speedometer cable ?
Great video, takes me back almost 60 years to when i had a 58 Sprite, i had two gearboxes, one in the car and one on the bench, kept chipping the layshaft, in those days i lifted the unit out manually, I could change the box on a Sat morning. Looking at a photo of the car on my office wall. How do I go back in time?
sorry to be so off topic but does anybody know of a method to get back into an Instagram account..? I was dumb forgot my password. I would love any help you can offer me
@Hendrix Roger Instablaster ;)
@Jerry Maxim thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm trying it out atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Jerry Maxim it worked and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy! Thanks so much, you saved my ass !
@Hendrix Roger you are welcome xD
Fuel tank vent may be clogged
I obviously haven't driven Fred, and I'm assuming the electrics are all in good order, but the carburetion problems may be related to the slow run/idle jets. This is if it has flat spots on light throttle, but becomes better as the throttle opens and the revs rise. If it's bad everywhere you probably need to look at the main jets, emulsion tubes and air jets as well (I'm assuming that basics such as float height and needle valve condition are OK). If it misfires or stumbles as you open the throttle you may need to look at the pump jets. Also, is the carb mounted onto the manifold with 'O' rings (and rubber doughnuts under nyloc nuts)? The carb should be free to move up and down around 8mm at the ram pipes but not be so loose that you have an air leak which will completely screw the running up; if it's too tight you can suffer from vibration and fuel frothing. One way to tell if you're running weak, at least on part throttle, is to pull the choke out slightly; if it runs better that is a good clue. Webers are almost infinitely adjustable, but that can be as much a curse as a benefit. It takes years of experience to be able to set them up well when they are wrong. A couple of other things I've just thought of - what size chokes are you running? I'd suggest around 32mm but I have little experience with 40s on the A-Series so others probably know better then me - and what have you done about the original vac advance? Normal practice is to leave it disconnected because the strong pulsing if you connect it to just one barrel of the carb can send the vac advance into spasms and bugger up your ignition timing. The problem with leaving it off is that the engine will run far less efficiently on part throttle; a good solution can be to fit a throttle position sensor to the carb and then use an ECU to add extra advance depending on throttle position and revs - ideally you can trigger it from a toothed wheel and eliminate the distributor entirely along with its tendency to "scatter" the ignition timing. I've just bought a Frogeye after 40 years of regretting selling my previous one, but mine's on SUs. My Weber experience is mainly with Fords and Vauxhalls so there may be someone who understands your installation far better than me. Finally, find a good rolling road with a competent operator and be aware that a properly set up Weber should drive well at all points in the rev and throttle range (the very light throttle stuff at low revs needing more skill and experience than the full throttle stuff); you don't need to accept any compromises on the driveability front.
See later videos .. engine was terminally damaged at this stage
@@Number27 Ah yes, I've only just discovered you and Fred. It's difficult to see in the video - did it split a bore and was it too thin?
Yes the bore was porus. New block and sorted now!
I have a Sprite MK1, also think of install a Datsun gearbox but also with the engine from the Sunny. I have them already Do you have any info about the gearbox plate? Why did you change the clutch master cylinder?
See rivergate in the US for all the information
Iv got a Datsun box to fit into my bugeye 1330cc engine, worried about cutting to fit it in etc. which mounting kit and slave did you use please?
Rivergate kit!
What happened to the Datsun donor car? Pretty sought-after in their own right nowadays.
Didn’t know you had a frog eye. So close to getting a 3000.
Yep, had some issues with it but video coming soon.
I hope it went to an appreciative owner, and you're over it, and that good money went your way.
Are my reverse lights stuck on? Bugger!
No, that clip was reversed to make it look like you leaving
You sold the 964!! When did I miss that, man, sorry. No doubt I too have some hard decisions coming.
Yep sold!! Just wasn’t using it enough to justify keeping it!
Don't think the Weber has correct jetting / emulsion tube combo.
IS your vacuum advance sticking?
Not connected.. set up without it
@@Number27 Is that because of fitting a Weber?
Remove that bloody Weber and install a pair of properly tuned 1.5 S.U.'s on a Maniflow intake. I screwed around with a brand new Spanish 40 DCOE and Maniflow intake on my 1293 for weeks! Tried many changes on the tune and could not get it to run properly at all! I finally gave up and went back to a nicely restored set of 1.25 S.U.'s paying strict attention to the connector linkage set-up and tuning, and the motor is now singing sweetly! Plus it looks a lot better with the S.U.'s in my opinion. Regardless, I'll never go back to that Weber!
Interesting to hear of your experience.. if I could go back I might go with SUs this time around but now I’m so far down the line I think I’ll get the Weber to work..
There are some really good arguments for running SUs instead of a Weber. SUs are certainly easier to tune and, generally speaking, they're probably a better proposition for a fast road application. The DCOE really is a racing carb and consequently a little more problematic for general road use. Typically speaking, they're designed for use at constant WOT, with everything else being a bit of a compromise. However, in most cases, you will get better power with a Weber. The worst problem with the DCOE Weber is it's tuneability. Webers are essentially 'infinitely' tuneable and consequently much harder to get just right than is the case with SUs. There are various guides around (I found Andrew Barron, Selection and Tuning of Weber DCOE Carburetors; very helpful; and available free online) that give you a reasonable starting point for jets, chokes, air correctors, emulsion tubes etc for your particular engine size and application. However, in my experience, you're still unlikely to get it spot-on (even when you think you have), without a dyno and someone who understands old school carb tuning.
I have wrestled with the wisdom of modifying this car. But people did it back in the day. What the hell, it's your car. I didn't catch a figure in the video, but I would guess the new engine makes about 70 hp, and a lot more torque. Just watching you give it some stick, it looks about right to me; much quicker without being excessive. Maybe about as quick as an NA MX-5. So it isn't factory original, and its value is possibly far less because of that, but I'm sure it's a much better car to drive. It clearly has a quite a bit more stomp, and should climb hills with relative ease. The disc brakes should compensate nicely, and the new rad should keep it cool. Personally, I'd much rather have your car than a standard one. If I could buy it for less, so much the better. If I were trying to have a similar driving experience, I would take an early MX-5 and strip as much weight out of it as I possibly could. I believe you can get one down to about 1800 lbs (820 kilos). MX-5s are plentiful and cheap, which fits the original spirit of the Sprite. They are weather-tight and dead reliable. My understanding is that Sprites are not even remotely weather-tight. As in, water can come right up through various holes in the floor! But I see no reason why this simple car can't be dead reliable.
Has anyone ever tried or seen anyone swap a B-series 1800 cc engine in a Midget or Sprite ?
Too bulky and heavy. Better results and less work in upping a 1275's compression, flowing the head, and finding a 5-speed. Several rear end ratios are available from 3.9 to 5.38 and worse.
Your pump should be fine, Weber happy with low pressure. I’d start with the timing as a known issue, then have a look at plugs for colour to see where you are at with fuelling, then give up and sell it all to me cheap.
£500?
there’s a clue there when you said you were not sure about the ignition timing and the noise coming from your Engine when you’re trying to accelerate sounds like really bad pre-ignition you need to fix this immediately otherwise it will destroy your new engine
t.y 🙏🙏
3:16 40 DCOE is way too small for a 1380... Need a 45
Why is it too small? A 40 DCOE can accommodate chokes ranging from 24-36 mm. For a 1380 engine reving out to 7.5-8 K, I'd have thought chokes between 25-30 mm would be about spot on.
Why not just keep the original gearbox?
The original Sprite smooth case gearbox was fragile. It came with bushings instead of needle bearings. The syncro rings were heat shrunk on and not replaceable. First gear was straight cut and therefore non syncromesh. Unskilled drivers ruined most of these gearboxes by trying to downshift into first gear while still moving. The original box was designed for a 40 horsepower motor and didn’t last long when overpowered. Nowadays replacement internals like first gear and the cluster gear are quite expensive. Most guys swap in a later rib cage gearbox from a 1275 cc car. They are still non syncro first but are stronger and have better syncros. Additionally the later box will allow one to fit the later clutch and flywheel, necessary for the bigger bore motor.
Try sticking a small block Chevy motor in a bugeye sprite. It's not a fun car to drive 😊
Do you regret selling the 911?
MrCarrera28 I regret that he sold it. If I had had the money for another, oh well
@@skithewhitestuff The perennial car lovers problem, so many great 911's and never enough money to buy all the one's you want.
Datsun box will be all floppy up top and indirect compared to the std MM box with the Mt Everest first gear which isn't great but has a nice tight change. Overboring a 1275 will blow head gaskets all the time as the cylinder walls will be paper thin and it will get very hot. Webers are designed for crossflow heads and flat spot on a-series without a huge amount of messing about. Much better with SU's. This will have a similar top speed if the diff is standard. Brakes and suspension in these won't take the extra power without starting over. Cutting has drastically reduced the value and it will have lost some of its character. Driven in anger the extra weight will make it understeer as these were really very well balanced for low speed fun using very ordinary BMC parts bin mechanicals. So a std one will actually be quicker around corners and better to drive. ie classic common mistake of changing the driveline only and not the rest.
I would take issue with you about a few of your opinions… firstly, overbored 1275 engines will not “blow head gaskets all the time” - only if you get up to 73.5mm (1380cc) and even then you can mitigate this with ARP 11 head studs. Secondly, the extra weight of the Datsun gearbox, and in my case Toyota Celica T50, is towards the centre of the car and only slightly increases front/rear weight ratio and again any tendency to understeer can be compensated by a thicker anti-roll bar. Thirdly, cutting a small part of the bodywork to fit a superior 5 speed and stronger gearbox will not devalue the car - it will make the car MORE useable and therefore valuable, unless you are someone who thinks a car should be a museum relic or concours show dolly. Finally, Webers do work on road cars, not just wide open throttle racing, if they are setup by a classic Weber specialist and preferably also on a rolling road. Who am I to say these things? Just someone who has successfully done all of these things.
Should've bought a cheap Ferrari instead!!! 😁😁😁
I never had any fuel problems with my racing Sprite back in the 1960s neither did I know anyone who had problems. The fact that it will accelerate suggests that it isn't the pump. It would check your fuel line to see that you haven't got a high spot that's causing an airlock. By the way, in my opinion, you've ruined a perfectly good car, it has now lost all of its charm character. You've definitely reduced the car's value, possibly by as much as half. However each to his own. One final suggestion use a Mk1 Cooper S distributor without a vacuum advance. Or a modern equivalent. Incidentally I've owned my 1958 Sprite for 53 years.