CV BOOT replacement. Easiest method!!
Replacing a cv boot on my 2011 VW Transporter T5 4-motion.
This is an easy job you can do yourself in your driveway. Not much tools required. Always fingertight nuts and bolts before using an impact to prevent cross threading!
👨🏭Stay safe, always use jackstand and safety gear!
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Nothing like having all the correct tool for the job. I have done this job with a spanner, screwdriver, hammer old paint brush. This looks much easier.
Nice boot stretcher. Well done repair, just be ready to do the other three next month :)
No idea that spanner tool existed. Nice time saver. Appreciate the video.
For anyone curious, a cv boot expander is only around $70(US). The CV axle is only about $60-$90. Even with renting basic tools, you're still HUNDREDS of dollars less than a mechanic. I love youtube.
Easiest method if you have the right tools.
Great video showing how tools make life easier!!
Thanks 😊
Excellent tutorial, I use the plastic cone as I don't do this job often🤙🏄♀️
I don't know why some repair shops are unwilling to rebuild the cv axle and prefer to replace it with a new one.
Because it's easier and the driveshop take the old one and rebuild them better than a mechanic can. The mechanic also doesn't have to worry about throwing away old axles. They're recycled. What you're paying for is labor plus this recycling cost.
because it is much easier for them, but still charge you a lot of money
It's easy and you 're doing the paying anyways,,,
not that hard to understand surely?
Stretchy rubber boots = premature failure. Auto shops don’t want customer comebacks.
Kudos to the camera Crew, I literally enjoyed the excellent filming than the repair process ❤
Thank you!
That boot expander is the bees knees!
You're a professional, well done.❤
I’m not a professional, but like to try out things and do repairs myself!
Such a well put together video thank you!! This’ll be handy as
Thx! Have a happy new year 🥳
Excellent tutorial
Thank You!!
I love a stretchy boot kit i used the nylon cone
I loved the man's approach to the given task. Health n safety first. Cleaning surfaces before working. Using han tools to double check torque on bolts. Tightening every second wheel nut and finish tightening by hand. Only thing I would have done is leave the nut on Track rod end to protect its threads when using the splitting tool. Otherwise very professional approach to the job.
Thanks! It is not enough space to have the nut on while using the splitting tool.
This guy has all the tools that car repair shop would have. 3:42 normally people don't have this kinda tool though..
You don’t need a lot of tool to do this job. Just make sure to use some kind of good jackstands and stay safe😀
You can use a funnel and plenty of lube to do the same job as that tool, or just open the joint (usually just a circlip on the inside) and put it on like you do with non stretchy ones, easier to clean and examine like that too!...
@@EZ-D-FIANT how do you open the joint (and which joint do you open?) . thx
@@DeepakKumar-lv4te it'll either pull off or their will be a circlip on the inside where the shaft passes through the bearing cage, clear the grease out with brake cleaner or something and look, usually it's press fit on the outer and circlip on the inner but I've seen them every way before! if the shaft is still on the car and its an outer joint I'd get a mate to hold the shaft and hit the outside of the back of the cup with a heavy Hammer, careful of the bearing cage, if the shaft is out get it in a vice and hit it off, try and keep the cup straight! Sometimes it can be a pita especially if the shaft is on the car, if you don't have a mate handy you might be able to get zip ties round a resonance block or something to hold the shaft in, if you take it out you might need to top up your gear box oil some spill some don't so have a container underneath incase and then top up the same amount that came out or better yet drain and refill the transmission! Lots of people just replace axels these days as they are cheap personally I think the oem ones are such better quality it's better to rebuild! Good luck....
@@DeepakKumar-lv4te open the joint that's bad, tbh it's usually the outer and you can get to the inner if you remove the outer too (unless you have a big resonance block thing on the shaft) so probably the outer.
Always extenally clean a a cv joint with a wire brush followed by brake cleaner before removing the rubber. When fitting a new CV or reffiting on cars with ABS apply any suitable corrosion protection to the exposed unprotected metal to prevent crude build up
Super clear
Great job.
Thanks!
Wow this video is great even the ending where you show the final product and the tired spinning best video I have seen so far on this repair hopefully I do good 🥲 thanks for the video
Thanks😀
Good job. 😊
Thanks
In regards to the inner boot, Murphy always follows me.
The inner boot lasts much longer. Doesn’t move as much as the outer when you turn.
@@InTheVise yet I'm looking through all these videos because both the inner boots on my Fusion are torn. So for the inner boot, do you just flip the boot the opposite way?
@@MustangMan1 just put it inside out on the spreader tool!
Is it ok to use cable ties on the boot instead of those clips
If the joint is good, I would try a split boot first. Usually I replace the whole axle assembly because they were cheap a few years ago. But your way looks good. 👍
The split boots doesn’t work in cold weather. The super glue cracks. I live in Norway, so no good solution here in the winter time!
BUEN TRABAJO RAPIDO Y SIN GASTA MUCHO DINERO EN UN TALLER HASLO TU MISMO BORICUA PR BOSTON MASS
I do like it. I find this to be like nice rpofessional job. Is the quality of the rubber comparable with classic type of sleeve ?
The rubber boots doesnt lasts as long as the thermoplastic ones.
this is the only way. you made the process so easy tho, I can do it in my sleep
Hello 👋 good job well done ✅ but there is another way : open the clamp clips which are located inside the shaft of the CV joint with special pliers, then remove the CV joint and then insert the CV boot normally 👍
Hi, it is not a circlip on this model of car. You can take off the cv joint with a puller. But it can be really hard to get off sometimes, especially when the shaft is connected to the gearbox on the car.
Would of done inner boot as well.
The inner boot has not so much wear. Because it doesn’t flex like the outer when you steering.
Also may I know what tool do you use @4:15? What brand? I thought to buy that special spreading power tool with opening jaws, but many people complain that it tears the boots, kind of works only on certain type of boots, and how to know which boot will be torn, unclear. I don't have that type of problem w/boots, but good to learn how all that works. Thank you again.
I bought the tool at Biltema (Scandinavian parts store) here in Norway about 10 years ago. The boot I use is designed to stretch over the joint. You can also use a cone if you don’t have the pneumatic spreader tool.
@@InTheVise I see, I didn't realize you are in Norway. I've checked on Amazon, unfortunately that company (Biltema) is not present on site. The most expensive here in US is Dorman tool (and less negative reviews). On many the reviews state that the boot doesn't spread even at 150 psi, and then unexpectedly gets torn. The cone I think (from the film I saw) requires certain physical abilities. Well I don't need it right now, in the future I'll just try Dorman. Thank you very much for all the explanations.
I used the same method to replace cv boots on a Mercedes W123 diesel.
That’s a great car! Had a W123 300 turbo diesel myself! Best engines ever! But the rust got it.
It wouldn't surprise me if the bolts were over-torqued since they were done up with a rattle gun and then only checked with a torque wrench. The bolts should have been spun up and then finally tightened with a torque wrench to the specified torque that would certainly have seen movement with the torque wrench. All that is shown here is that the bolts have been tightened to at least the specified torque and are probably tighter that may have gone beyond the bolts yield limit. Note also that the bolt threads have not been cleaned so that any torque applied will be inaccurate.
I would totally pay what I need to for a professional to do this. That was A LOT for me.
Workshop would probably replace the complete driveshaft. And it would cost 20 times more, at least. But you do what you want with your car😉
@@InTheVise well I sure as hell am not touching it and wouldn’t trust some stranger to replace the boot, so what do you suggest? Also, thanks for the permission…I guess 🤣😂
@@aprilrosario6869then throw yohr money away.
@@aprilrosario6869 It's not hard to just replace the whole drive shaft , which just pull out when you get to this stage of disassembly - they come complete with boots already fitted and are available after market. It's also not an expensive job for your local mechanic to do either. Use a local guy and build up a relationship with them. It's worth it.
It's not that difficult and you wouldn't need that expensive tool or the special flexi boot. The end shaft comes off very easily as it is only held on by a clip. They change the end shafts all the time at our local garage. It's a half hour job. I've done it many times.
What else can be worn in the CV Axle besides the boot. I found that on line the following: The frequency of replacing CV axles depends on how often you drive your car and on the driving conditions that the car goes through on a regular basis1. Some vehicles don’t even require CV axle replacement until their tenth year. I've replace on our 2003 Chevy Cavalier PS CV Axle just bcs of the age and mileage (~110 K). With the DS I struggle, since very limited space around. I think maybe to leave that Axle, nothing wrong with it. But from another side it is old. I would appreciate any opinion on this question. Thank you for the great and detailed film. I saw that tool to put a boot on, but didn't know how to use it till this film.
Thanks😀 You can hear noise when you turn hard in slow speed if it is any play in the cv joint. As long as the boot is ok, and enough grease, they lasts forever. Many replace the hole axle and joints when the boot tears. And they replace it with cheap aftermarket Chinese parts that doesn’t hold up for a very long time. My old car, VW T4, ran almost 500000km (310.000 miles) with the stock cv joints. I only replaced the boots and grease a couple of times.
@@InTheVise Thank you for so quick replay. Our Chevy had a humming noise in the area of engine, so on the PS. But it came only when driving 15mph or more. The sound was like smth heavy and not centered started to rotate, and that uneven angular motion caused it. The was no sound at Idling, and the sound never changed when you shift gears at driving. After ~59mph it was almost the same, like automatic weapon. Sometimes turning left it could be heard whining sound, but not that typical knocking sound, which indicates bad CV Axle. How I know that sound, it was like that on another our car (2001 Saturn SL2, it had ~120K at that time). I replaced both CV Axles on Saturn and the problem gone. So I still hope that the hamming sound on Chevy related to some suspension problem and not the engine, like Connecting Rod(s). I have TRQ CV Axles, TRQ is pretty good company I think, I bought many parts from them, everything works fine. I've read somewhere that worn strut can make some noise. On Chevy there was only one leaking (on the rear DS), but I'm replacing all of them of course (just Front DS is left). And another thing, maybe you know, can a broken Radiator Cooling Fan make that type of hamming sound. I replaced radiator there and saw that the fan didn't work, so replaced the motor in it. Thank you again.
@@olenaerhardt7725 I don’t know. Make a video which the noise, maybe someone knows the problem. 😀
@@InTheVise I thought about it, it is a good idea. As soon as I finish the project, I'll do that. Maybe really someone can recognize that sound and give an opinion, before I go to the dealer. At the dealer they say they don't do rebuilding on the engine, just replacement. The Connecting Rods they consider the rebuild. Thank you.
Everything is done professionally except the plastic sheet to protect the pavement
Use, and availability, of the stretching tool was more than impressive. Yet I presume that damage of the old boot was only exaggerated for viewer clarity and that replacement of the CV-joint/driveshaft would tend to be required.
I could do the job as quick without the stretching tool or the special flexi boot. He'd already done the hard part and would then only have to flex the clip with the circlip pliers to remove the cv joint from the shaft. The old boot would then slide off without any cutting. The joint could then be thoroughly inspected cleaned and re greased and then just pushed back on. Over kill I think.
I noticed that you just put grease on top and in the boot. But in other videos they evenly spread the grease inside the joint. Grease on top and boot is just as good?
I pushed the grease into the joint after I clamped it. You can see it in the video. It will spread around once you start driving. And the centrifugal forces will push the grease into the joint.
I also added a bit extra grease than is provided in the boot kit.
That CV joint looks a little loose?
I wasn't aware there was a torx bolt under the ball joint (?) , is that on T5 aswell do you know? Also, have you seen an equivalent boot stretcher tool over here (UK) ? thx
This is a T5! I’m sure you can find a boot stretch tool in UK at car part store. You can also use a cone.
@@InTheVise thanks. Is it a special flexible boot, or just a VW one?
@@DeepakKumar-lv4te it is not a VW. It is an aftermarket, that is made to stretch.
Hello were can I find this tools
Most auto parts store!
LET ME GO BUY ONE FOR A ONCE IN A DECADE USE
You cannot use any CV boot with that tool. It requires a more stretchy type boot.
Query , are some boots more tolerant of revs, as I had a fail with a similar approach but without the expander.
i was wondering about that, I think any boot I've seen would split.
So now I just need the tools 1k job in under 10 mins. Rather invest in my tools then pray to baby jesus i put everything back together correctly.
The problem is not all the boots were made to expand that much, the tool will rip some aparts and you still have to do it the old way.
Exactly the cheap boots that most places sell wod have ripped apart. & u must weigh the scale if it's worth buying those tools for urself.
Did you say 10 minutes?
Ale już dolnego sworznia wahacza , co był uwalony smarem z uszkodzonej osłony , już nie umył . Poza tym kto ma taki rozpierak pneumatyczny do osłon w garażu? Można było rozpiąć pierścień segera i wysunąć wielowypust z homokinetyka, nałożyć osłonę gumową i włożyć wielowypust na miejsce. Reszta jak na filmie.😀
Yeah I feel it’s just easier to replace the entire axle. Getting the side out closest to the transmission is a pain but either way will be time consuming.
When you take out the axle from the gearbox on this car, the gear oil will start flowing out, so make sure to buy in some gear oil as well!
It would probably cost about 14 times as much and how can it be easier ?. You can replace the outer boot in less than an hour without this expensive tool or the special flexi boot. Once you've removed the shaft/cv from the hub the cv joint is only held on by a circlip. Flex the clip with circlip pliers and the joint will slide off followed by the rubber boot. Put the new boot on the shaft and clean and inspect the removed join and then re pack with grease. The joint will then just slide back on to the the shaft and click into place.
@@truthseeker7794 circlip?? I don’t think you have worked on to many cars.
Where did you find the boot stracher? What's the name of that ?
I bought it at Biltema in Norway.
Link to your expanding tool please
I bought it at Biltema.
good....
Thanks!
Wow thats an easy job, but that cv booth spreader is so pricey, here in the Philippines it cost more than P3,000 .
Hi, check my Amazon link in description!
You can also use a manual cone to spread the boot. Much cheaper!
Look like easy , but too complicate best to the shop for fix 😅
Nice video, but few words to add. I can't say this is the easies method, because of a special tool, that was used to install the stretchy boot. You don't actually need this tool, it is easy to remove the cv-jount from the shaft, normally secured by a circlip. @5.25 grease was not applied properly. you actually must force the grease inside the cv joint, not just squeeze it allover. This cv joint is not greased properly.
I pushed the grease in. You can see it on the video. Still runs good😀
In the mechanic's term, packing the grease.
I agree. He'd already done the hard part and all was left to do was get the circlip pliers on it. Usually it comes away easily and the old boot will slide off without any cutting. You can then inspect and clean the joint thoroughly and pack it with grease. I've done many in my time. I think this was a bit overkill.
@@truthseeker7794 circlip pliers? For what??
Why are people so afraid to just take the joint off? And do it without that tool? Its really easy to take off.
De kan sitte ganske godt. Og vanskelig å komme til når akslingen er på bilen. På noen biler begynner giroljen å renne ut hvis du tar av akslingen på girkassen. Og man kan risikere å skade simmerringen. Men det er absolutt en fordel å ta av drivknuten, og bruke en mansjett som er av høyere kvalitet. Som holder lenger enn de man utvider så mye. Spesielt her i Norge med kalde temperaturer. Også enklere å rense og legge nytt fett. Det finnes spesielle avdragere for å ta av drivknuten. Jeg skulle egentlig gjøre det på bilen min. Kjøpte avdrager på Biltema. Men den er akkurat litt for smal til drivknutene på VW T5, som i videoen.
@@InTheVise bare å nappe ut hele akselen. Sett noe under som giroljen kan dryppe oppi. Og fyll tilbake etterpå. Putt den pent inn igjen. simmeringen tar ikke skade av det.
No grease?
What are you talking about??
I added more grease than required 🧑🔧
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
My friends, what price an mechanic want to change an CV BOOT in USA AND Europe ? Some can reply me ?
Depending on how much you are willing to pay. A cheap shop would just use a foldable boot. Quick and easy but very short warranty or no warranty at all. Less tha $50 USA. The expensive one would just replace the whole shaft for longevity and durability. About at least $120 in labor. Part cost depends on OE or not.
I have seen some videos like this, but those boots look more of a cheap quality, I am sure they are neoprene material. Neoprene I dont think you can expand it like that
I doubt it is neoprene. The boots are usually made of rubber or thermoplastic material.
Some say that non/low-stretch rubber, if heated, can be forced over the large-dia' joint but don't quote me.
the easiest way is to get the split boots no disassembly required
They can be a nightmare to install, and doesn’t last very long time.
your ball joints need replacement too.
No.
No
I thought that too… maybe he just got grease on it from the old CV
Track/song ID?
Epidemic sound.
Just use shazam and you Get title and artist!
In south africa is there not such a gagdged to exspand a cv boot
Check the link in description
If the boot is bad this means all the grace it out and the joint has a slight damage so it's better to replace the entire CV and it's about the same labor time also what if the inner joint boot is bad this is waste of time.
For my car, the CV boot near the wheel is a hard type boot... look like plastic
Yes. That type is the best. Thermoplastic. But then you need to disassemble the cv joint from the axle to replace.
Yeah, your joint would require to come off the shaft if replacement boot non-stretchy.
Was trying to what but had to bail with that shit music 😂
What type of music do you prefer??
@@InTheVise Bluegrass
@@InTheVise Prefer no music. I like to hear the crack of a old mans knees when he kneels down. 😆
This m.usic is swell
This was going real good as a DIY boot replacement video until that giant stretcher came out 😰
what the hell... the cheap boots we get here would never stand up to that much stretch.
You have to buy boot that is made to be stretched over the joint.
EASIEST? First you need an air compressor, you have it but I don't. outside easiest, but not the inside. What if the inside loses the grease, how you re-grease without removing the whole CV axel ?
Air compressor is cheap. And you can use it to many tasks!!
what do i do if i don’t have that machine to expand the boot?
You can use a cone as well. Or you can just remove the cv joint from the axle, then you don’t need any special tools.
Remove & refit the joint but assess the type of circlip (ie Are circlip-pliers needed or does it operate a 'click-fit'?) before taking even a hammer to the joint, and preferably a soft-hammer.
Each to there own. But why not just knock CV joint off, & clean properly. And then just slide a new genuine CV boot on, no need to go though all that & using non genuine part???
At 4:06, it appears that the stretched boot has split, and the floor is visible through it.
🇲🇦🇲🇦🇲🇦🥇🇲🇦🇲🇦🇲🇦
Spend £200 on a CV boot expander and £150 on an air compressor... or.... spend 2 minutes dismantling the CV joint. Tough call.
Your choice 🤷♂️
Yeah! One would really need to umbe using the tool/s on a regular basis to justify the cost.
2 minutes dismantling the joint?
Hi, yes, these joints come apart with one touch of a hammer. They go back together with one more touch of a hammer. I used to design them for a living.
Yep it's only held on by a circlip and you don't need to hack the old boot to pieces to get it off. Also easier to clean, inspect and re pack the joint when it's off.
Wow alles zerlegt mmm.mit 2 schlaege auf den Kopf und man hätte eine oe manchette nehmen koennen ....
Your video is very good, but PLEASE dont ruin it with the loud, obnoxious music.
Someone likes it. Someone doesn’t like it. It is always tricky to find good music for videos that everyone enjoys. Usually I get more views on my videos when I use the most popular music from Epidemic sound.
It s not wise to use a grinder on cv boot
It was on the clamp! Not the boot!!
Not a great job of re-packing the bearings.
If you have that tool it’s easy! You went to all that trouble why not just remove the axle then the joint ? That’s easy as well!
The gear oil will start draining if you remove the axle from the gear box. And sometimes the joint can be hard to remove for the axle.
Easy to remove the joint and leave axle on. The joint is only held on by a circlip. You can do the job just as quickly without this special tool.
great video annoying music.. we're here for the wrenches and advice not music. if i turn the sound off i don't hear your advice !!!!!
Agree with you 100%
I am sorry, but I usually get more views on my videos when I use trending music from Epidemic sound library. I think it is something with the KZhead algorithm🤷♂️
Horrible “music”
Not tecnic
??
music sucks
Just replace the entire axle is much easier and safer in the road.
Could you have picked more annoying repetitive Chipmunk music ?? WTF ?
I’m sorry. But when I put on trending music from Epidemic sound, I get a lot more views on my videos. It’s probably something with KZhead algorithm. 🤷♂️
@@InTheVise Thanks for responding. It's crazy that the algorithm does that ! Your might like the Kevin MacLeod free music library. It's what all the big channels use, so might help with the algorithm too ?
@@edwardfletcher7790 I will check it out
It´s absolute bullshit to stretch the boot this way. The drive shaft joint is only mounted with a snap ring. You simply can dissassemble and reassemble it.👎
This type of boot I use in the video is meant to stretch over the cv joint. You also get a manual cone for this task, if you don’t have the pneumatic tool. Sometimes the joint can be hard to get off the axle (especially when mounted on the car). But if You want to take the joint off, it is ok for me. Your car, your choice. Cheers🍻
Жлоб какой-то. Мог бы заодно и профилактику шаровой и рулевого наконечника сделать. Да и летом на зимней резине ездит.
IF THATS YOUR IDEA OF EASIEST METHOD YOU MUST BE JOKING.
Show me an easier method then🤷♂️
WASTE OF TIME. Clean it pack new grease. Split boot done in 18 minutes. I timed myself. Way to much work
Unfortunately, you do NOT know how to use the torque wrench. the final tightenings you do are invalid. you have tightened much more beforehand. this in itself invalidates the use of the torque wrench.
I know how to use it. Just checking them a final time in the video. 😉
So now I just need the tools 1k job in under 10 mins. Rather invest in my tools then pray to baby jesus i put everything back together correctly.