TOYOTA OWNERS! Never Replace Your Leaky Axle | Fix Them Instead!
A Toyota specialist shares an important tip on Toyota and Lexus Axles. Never replace your leaking axle with an aftermarket one or worse a super expensive original one!
Toyota makes a CV Boot kit that comes with the original boots and everything you need to replace them. This kit is usually inexpensive and if you catch the axle leak in time, can save the original axle that otherwise would easily last the life of the vehicle.
You can find some tools to do this job DIY in my amazon store :
www.amazon.com/shop/thecarcarenut
*as an Amazon associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
TCCN Automotive Inc.
Toyota and Lexus Specialist Repair
Visit www.tccnautomotive.com to schedule your appointment today.
Check out the second channel :
/ @thecarcarenutreviews
Recommended Tools:
Basic Scan Tool amzn.to/3Jm6aom
Very good DIY Scan Tool amzn.to/3zF7dvH
Advanced Scan tool amzn.to/3q3L3QQ
Spill Free Coolant Replacement Funnel amzn.to/3uJfKxm
Sun roof drain cleaning tool amzn.to/3GMDlQ9
Good DIY Torque Wrench 1/2" amzn.to/3gE9bnw
Wireless Apple CarPlay for Toyota\Lexus amzn.to/3uKElSo
Very Good Triple Camera Borescope amzn.to/3MrgFs0
*as an Amazon associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
Follow the channel on Social Media :
/ thecarcarenut
/ thecarcarenut
Check out the channel Merch store
/ @thecarcarenut
Support the channel on Patreon:
/ thecarcarenut
Make a one time donation to the channel:
www.paypal.me/CCNdonate
Check out the amazon store:
www.amazon.com/shop/thecarcarenut
*as an Amazon associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
#thecarcarenut #tccnautomotive #toyota #lexus #toyotarepair
0:00 Axle Boot Kit Information
1:18 Axle Leak Example and Leak Criteria
2:03 Preparing to Remove the Axle
4:47 Toyota Axle Design
6:42 Axle Half Removal
9:19 Axle Tear Down
17:08 New Axle Boot Kit Contents
18:34 Important CV Clamp Information
22:28 CV Boot Tool Information and Tool Demo
24:17 Reassembly Continues
30:53 Reinstallation Tips
36:56 Different Model Differences
As a retired educator of 38 years, I am impressed with how descriptive your vocabulary is when it comes to describing the mechanical process involved in your videos. You are a master mechanic who just happens to be a master at educating us in how to fix, replace and repair very complicated car problems. Addressing these difficult issues with the right attitude, demeanor and determination makes us all feel we can be successful DIY selfers! Thanks for being such a great example to all of us!
You said what all true viewers are thinking, plus I must add in the OCD and working on LEXUS, perfect combination
You said it right. This man absolutely deserves the title "Master Mechanic". He's setting a great example for anyone working in that trade, and doing us DIYers one hell of a favor by sharing his knowledge.
And no swear words either!!
I agree except hammering the thriple bearing in the inner cv joint. Impact hammering the inside part will not affect it but hammering the bearing is no no action.
💯
As a former gradeschool coach and sub teacher for over a decade, i really appreciate your calm and descriptive teaching style. Lots of uus really learn alot from your videos. thanks for sharing. :)
What a blessing to have someone so talented teach the correct way to repair.
I like that
I completely agree, I'm 47 and really try to replicate his teaching style. Very detailed yet interesting and calm. Great job.
👍🏼.
toyota is trash cars....
THIS is the mechanic I would want working on my vehicle. He knows, down to the tiniest detail, exactly what needs to be done, and how to do it. He doesn't rush, and he doesn't take shortcuts. He uses the right tools and is careful and meticulous every step of the way. There are few mechanics that have this level expertise, skill and care.
Lots of them exist the problem is getting them to spend as much time and take as much care on the 5th or 9th car of the day as they did the first. Or getting them to care about any of them as much as their own
@@rockydubois1052 has to do with pay.......as the dealer is concerned with hours produced.-and the tech makes a fraction..... Not all dealers Have all the tools. I never saw one of those crimp tools. I dont miss working on cars at a dealers--PAY SUCKED.
@@harryharry3193 I agree. We have a money obsessed culture and it takes people's focus away from doing quality work. This applies to almost everything, not just mechanic work. It bugs the hell out of me.
I hope you enjoy having the wrong grease in your cv axles LOL
Part of the blame goes to the customers who are price obsessed. Doing work this way with ONLY factory parts costs almost double. Most(sadly) will not pay the price for this quality of work. The other part of the blame goes to mechanics short of ethical behavior and shortcutting their work to pad their profits. What came first...chicken or egg.
Driveshaft grease. First of all, I really enjoy the channel and all the shared information. I like to share my knowledge and hope you accept and appreciate this. Regarding the brown and black grease, there is actually a distinct difference. But first about the driveshaft itself, Toyota allocated the grease correctly, so the black grease in the CV joint and the brown grease in the Tripod joint. This is also visible in the video, the brown grease is in the tripod and black is in the CV joint. Ok, now for the difference. The theory is that the tripod needle bearings need a lithium soap based grease, so grease without solid particles or basically a thick oil. The CV joint is more robust in design and are able to deal with the Mos2 fortification. Without going in too much details and the literature, please assume the black grease is in fact MoS2 fortified grease and needs to go into the CV joint.
Thank you .. I was dumbfounded to hear him say there is no difference and then proceed to load the two exactly backwards .. they are not the same, great explanation between the two. I can say first hand that even after 230k miles you can pull off the boots and tell the difference. I’m literally wrapping up this job on a pair of axles this evening.
As a entry level technician who has a particular interest in Toyotas, each time I watch one of his videos, it feels like I’m going to tech school online covering a curriculum one video at a time. Amazing stuff always.
Exactly. Me too. I'm a car guy, and qualified (ex) diesel technician, but love watching his channel a lot! Wish I could work there ☺
I’m with you guys, I own my own 2 bay 2 man auto repair shop, and whenever we have a Toyota comming in for a complicated repair, I have my tech. Watch his vid. Even if it’s a quick breeze through refresher type thing. This guy is top notch , I wish he worked for me!
Mate honestly you will learn soooo much more from a guy like this than those useless workshop trainer vids. But good to learn the oem way first, then stop think about it ll the stuff you learnt and see what you can improve for you.
Your videos are so interesting. I don’t work on cars, but seeing something done well is satisfying. Look forward to every video. 👌🏻
As a Certified Toyota Tech, you did a great job explaining the reasons you are performing the repairs in a certain way.
As a certified Toyota Tech, can you tell us which grease goes where 😂
@@jessemoral394 sadly he doesn’t know
@@jessemoral394 my guess is the thicker grease goes on the spider as it has to slip back in to the part on the car. The other side, the boot gets sealed so it won't leak out.
@@jessemoral394 If you order (I did) the Toyota kits (mine is for 4th gen. 4Runner), each individual boot is packed with a packet of grease as well as clamps/snap rings. My inner kit has the lighter colored grease. (FYI..my inner boots were torn....outer boots looked fine (they were Toyota boots)....but decided to replace them as I figured the "labor" is the most difficult and time consuming part of the job....hope this helps..
Outer spiders are more movable than inner spider, therefore, thinner grease is applied the outer one.
I was a master technician for over 30 years and have done many many axles, CV joints and boots and yet when I watch this man, I always learn something new and valuable. Another great video, thank you.
This guy is such a great teacher. Explains everything slowly and in detail.
I can’t tell you how much I appreciate this mechanic, Consumers would definitely be more willing to bring their cars into shops if all mechanics were like this
That's an excellent point!
Absolutely. 100%
With all due respect, I would wail on the inner joint yoke from the forged area around the center spline hole instead of the precision bearings. Maybe a socket of the proper size would work for this. Love the videos and great advice.
I was thinking the same thing. He is sooo smart I can't believe he did that and the fact that more people don't say something. He just put 50,000 extra miles on it... everyone has flaws just like me :)
I use brass hammer for things like that. It won't damage the steel parts. The rag doesn't provide sufficient cushion or isolation.
The force still be transmitted through the bearings. This could put flats on the bearings. Brass hammers are great for many tasks though. @@andrewjones2167
@@andrewjones2167 Yeah, i was a bit surprised at that as well, just using the rag. I realize they are hardened but it made me wonder if there was any visible damage.
I agree , impressed with his past videos . Very surprised when installing the spider. Also when removing that same part would a modified puller have worked?
OMG this guy is freaking awesome, easy to understand, concise with details....wish I could have him as my mechanic!
One of the best mechanics I've ever seen. Myself included I've been working on cars for over 40 years and I'm truly impressed. Thank you so much for your videos.
he was banging the hell out of the axle spider. that thing is junk.
I've "aged" out of most DIY car projects. I happened onto your videos and kept watching them because you have the skills of a surgeon, albeit on Toyotas. I find your work to be so skillful you make it look effortless even though I know it is not. May the Lord bless you and keep you as well!
LOL! I totally agree...I've also "aged out" for many of these projects. Especially something like this, rolling around on the ground as DIY'er and horsing around messy, heavy components. :)
Amen! The last intense job I did on our cars was replacement of a clutch in my son's Acura Integra. I actually pulled a muscle in my face trying to get the clutch to line up. It made rebuilding the hybrid battery on the 2002 Prius seem easy by comparison. I have to rely on others for the brute force work now that I am in my 70s.
Hope he can come home to Iraq one day
@AQ-ep3rt So true...I'm 61 and I'm just about done with fixing cars.
Hello, I work in a company that produces axles for most car makers, brown grease is always used for spiders (tripod) and black, gray grease for joint with balls. Different manufacturers use different grease, but the color relationship is always the same.
This guy is the best, and willing to freely show and reveal his knowledge to benefit all of us. And that is priceless , God bless you brother.
Even classroom backbenchers like me get your lessons. That's how good you are as a teacher.
Lol
Excellent video! I don’t even own a Toyota right now. But your calm demeanor and how you explain each step, I still feel like I’m learning something important, and is why I watched the entire 40 minute video! Keep up the great work!
Well Stated!!!
Hello, first off I wanna say I’m glad you’re sharing your knowledge with folks… makes me happy when people are involved with their own repairs…I’ve been working for Toyota for almost 3 decades ..I just wanted to add a few correction.. if you don’t mind, not sure if you over looked them but.. the grease was not installed in the correct order the clear brownish grease goes in the inner boot and the thicker grease goes in the outer. If you noticed. When you removed both boots the outer grease was thick and the inner grease was dripping.. you forgot to remove air that gets traps when installing boots, this will cause boots to expand and rupture under high rpm . You mentioned vibration when installing after market,, that is correct but you also made a mistake by not marking the position of the inner joint when removing it, that will cause vibration .. last , when you installed the outer boot and the rusted pain chipped it got caught under the boot were the clam goes.. it’s going to leak ….
3 decades! Seems like someone who knows Toyotas like the back of their hand haha! Read your comment and was wondering (going to do this job myself), what do you mean by marking the position of the inner joint? Thanks! - Fellow Toyota lover
What is the procedure to remove air from the boots?
I know this is an ancient post to reply to - but basically, you put a paint mark across the two sides of the CV joint to make sure the axle goes back into the same alignment - there are three ways that the tulip can fit into the inner joint. This keeps any factory balance that was done.
Oh.... That would be a pain to put on the thinner grease in the inner boot if we are not taking out the whole axle assembly.
As a retired donut maker, shoe salesman, dirt striker, you know your stuff!
I do most of my own car repairs. I don't even have a Toyota at this time but I still enjoy watching your videos. Thats how much I respect your work. Great job my friend!
What is your brand of Choice. I have been getting nothing but new Honda's starting back in 1987. I found the Toyota to be a bit bland and soft. Later on in life I purchased my first new Toyota Camry. At that point I liked it more than the Honda. It was a smoother quieter ride mellowed out overtime.
Where can I just a clamp not working right now I have a 2014 Toyota Camry
I do alot of diy. I enjoy the learning experience and saving a load of money. Your presentation is very educating and entertaining. Great job!
Exceptionally great videos all the time!!!!
Sr. You are an outstanding person. I’m a DIY type but seek the help of a knowledgeable person when I need it. I Do Not trust stealerships. Toyota of Colorado Springs,CO once gave me an estimate to replace The Rack an Pinion, battery, and quite a few more pieces on my Tundra. It was about $6-7k. I declined! Years later, I bought the rack and took it to a shop to have installed, the shop asked me why I replaced it if there was nothing wrong with it. I replace the battery 5 years later, it never failed when Toyota wanted to replace it. I appreciate your knowledge and honesty when explaining the process of the repairs you do. Thank you, Herbert
This guy is the best. Very professional and informative. He takes his time and explain everything clearly. I hope he continue to do educational videos. We need more people just like him. Job well done. Thank you for everything.
I love how positive and calm you are even with how obviously difficult this whole entire thing is. You give us hope 😀 Kudos to the camera man as well. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!!
Toyota axle boots replaced was excellent. Im 74 and was a licensed Honda tech. All products literally. Also retired corporate. Great job and superp repair. I'm not doing that much anymore but still service my products. Love the fact you stress OEM replacement products and the Toyota boot clamp special tool. Decided to view this while eating but watched it till you were done. You like what your doing that's for sure. Kudos! I'm still a fan of Toyota and their Corolla. 50 million made and under other names as well, not seen in North America.
Excellent presentation! Attention to detail and very thorough from start to finish. Learned a lot about proper disassembly and assembly especially the different clamps, grease, tools, etc. Thank you!
I’m an Acura tech but we get a lot of Toyota used cars. I love watching your videos and appreciate you taking the time to make them.
THIS is why I truly enjoy subscribing to your channel. Your videos are always informative, straight to the point, and practical for the DIY mechanic. Outstanding!
Here Here
AMD, If the problem ever comes up, I will follow your advice. 😁
I’ll say amen to that! 😆
Great teacher!!! Thanks a lot.
@@jeanduval7877 Oui!
HI there CCN. I hope all is well. I could watch your repair videos all day long. I'm not really a DYI'er but I enjoy seeing how all this stuff works! Thanks for making these videos! SHINE ON!
I have watched hundreds, if not thousands of hours of educational video on cars and information technology, and this sir is one of the best I've seen. People like you, sir, who share their knowledge from years of experience make the world a better place. Thank you!
Plain and Simple: You are a damn good Toyota technician !!!!!!
For sure! we just need more AMD’s all over the country to work on our cars!
I am continually impressed by your depth of knowledge, calm, well-paced delivery, and the camera work. I've done this job many times with my volkswagens. Disassembled the bearings, thoroughly cleaned them, then struggled to reassemble the outer cage and six balls to the inner portion. Your way is much easier. Never let a little pitting of the balls prevent me from reusing the bearings.
WHEN TAKING THE SPIDER OUT OF THE SPLINE, USE A SMALL WOOD BLOCK IN BETWEEN THE IT & THE HAMMER, OR USE THE RUBBER MALLET, OR YOU DAMAGE THE 3 BALL BEARING.
+1 for too much hammer on the spider. "Notice I'm not whaling on it".....immediately starts pounding on it before using air hammer. Then pounds some more directly on the lobes when replacing it🙃!
Why are you yelling? No need to be rude. 😉
Could have sworn I used a bearing puller to extract the spider, back in the day.
I’d rather see you use a copper or lead hammer.😎
@@oldmatelots2748 "Too much hammer on the spider" is what I was thinking, too. Then again, am I a professional mechanic?
This man gives a very strong impression that he knows exactly what he's doing. I love that !!!!
Great, I am impressed at the patience’s you have to explain every detail, besides being a master car mechanic, You make it look so easy.
When ever I separate an inner sliding pot/plunge joint I always make sure that each one of the needle roller bearings goes back into the same slot it came out of. Also re the different grease types. The outer CV joint is designed to have the thick black Molly grease but the inner sliding pot/plunge joint uses the more viscous creamy lighter grease because it can lubricate the needle rollers easier because of it's ability to move around easily.
yes, changed boots on the rear axle on my st185 as a precaution, the information as he said is hard to get, as there is nothing on the topic. The black grease is molybdenum grease which is for the outer axle, and the lighter grease is Polyurea grease, which is a lower NGLI grease that turns more liquidy at higher temperature to supposedly prevent the needle bearings from burning up from the movements. If my memory recalls correctly, I've read something about SAAB changing the grease from Polyurea to simple moly grease for the inner axle for ease of use/cost efficiency or something, however I don't remember if it made them last less. It's a shame some technical topics/questions just end at "Just use the grease in the packaging" "Just buy some CV joint grease" when you can clearly see there is a difference in the grease, it might work, but is it right? I want my axles to last as long as possible since there are not dimes a dozen of them.
This is my understanding as well. Even in this video, you can actually see that the grease from the old CV joint is thicker.
AMD, as usually, this video and you sharing your knowledge, tips and experience are SO INCREDIBLY HELPFUL! I wish you were here so I can have your shop service my Toyota and Lexus. You're awesome!
Seriously a master at his craft and a master at teaching. Calm cool head with every obstacle, easygoing going tone while discussing the process, expanding on details lost by others. Truly a man that has master his craft an mastered a life mystery to most of us all, happiness an joy in all life’s tasks. We have all worked with angry unhappy people and I feel I speak for most of us who have you would be a great coworker or boss. Cheers to you my friend the world needs more of your kind.
Many thanks from a UK 2013 Prius owner! I damaged the inner left-hand side CV boot when I was replacing the lower suspension arm a few weeks ago, and the the UK dealer quoted 723 pounds incl VAT for supplying the whole axle, and 99 pounds for the boot kit (parts only). I fitted an aftermarket boot today after removing the axle, and fortunately my spider was really easy to come off, so the job went quite quickly. Your video told me what to expect before I started, and was a great help.
It's a pleasure to watch a master mechanic perform and thoroughly explain this replacement. I'm a DIYer and this video, as fascinating as it was to watch, showed me I never want to do this repair myself. You are a great representative for the quality of Toyota mechanics.
Ooof.. Don't strike the C.V joint like that with a steel hammer.. i first try a dead blow lead shot type hammer.. if that doesn't do it.. i then use a brass drift punch on the very center of the cage that is on the shaft and strike the brass drift with a steel hammer or brass hammer... and slightly strike it back and forth on all sides while pulling up on it.. i have also used a short piece of 2x4 to catch the outer part of the joint where he had the rag over it...and then hit the 2x4 with a hammer.... but NEVER use a steel hammer directly on the joint.. no.. not even with a rag over it.. I'm a Toyota and A.S.E Master as well.. with over 35 years in the field... I'm not trying to be an ass.. but i disagree with the way he handled that.. just saying...
@@pseudosmith9945 yes question I have 3 Toyotas I have a 2000 Tacoma and a 1986 Celica gts i take all three of my vehicle to to the dealership talking about my 2000 Tacoma I took it to the dealership to have the cv boot replace as usual but the dealership told me that the they were frozen or sieged something like that ok and needed to replace the entire axel I had no problem with that they attempted to order the Toyota replacement but unavailable soo they went with after market parts not a fan of after market parts but had no choice and basically the same thing with my 1986 Celica just recently same thing exactly any suggestion thank you
@@jameseverly8501 yes.. parts have gotten difficult to get these days.. go ahead and run those shafts since you have to but just keep an eye out for any vibration/shaking that may appear after the replacement with those after market shafts which could cause bearing/seal wear in the hubs and/or transaxle.. have them order the factory units and notify you when they come in if you are having problems with the aftermarket ones or just WANT the factory ones.. generally. If they are bad.. you'll notice right off.. look up factory Toyota parts on the internet and there are sites you can buy factory parts. I have bought some from Marrietta Ga all the way to Texas before.. You can even call a dealership in another state that may have them in stock and have them shipped to you, you could install them yourself or have a reputable shop do so for you.. good luck and hope this helps.. 👍
Yeah, I thought I wanted to until I watched how complicated it is. It made me appreciate quality mechanics that much more.
@@pseudosmith9945 I am with you, that steel hammer no. I will be soon making Lead hammers and selling on Ebay. I have the old cast Iron mould.... I use 1/2" Pipe with a tee... pour the hot lead !! Use heavy dead blow or plastic hammers...
Another GREAT video by you guys!!! The calm demeanor and camera work really are geared to educate anyone having to look into cv axle repair/replacement. I cannot thank you enough for all of your videos!!!
Amazing walkthrough as always. I regretfully used a new Cardone CV axle in college after unknowingly tearing the boot and getting sand in the joint.(no funds for an OEM at the time). Wish I had known this then - no problems since but both OEM and Cardone boots are due for replacement soon!
I wish I had seen your video before. I spent hours hammering the whole axel out only to find that I couldn't remove one side. Bought aftermarket one that now sounds like it grinds when braking. I'll have to find the pieces to the original one. Great instructor. You are a natural!
I don't drive a Toyota but I enjoy watching your vids, the professionalism and attention to detail is captivating.
Very professionally done & equally honestly explained! If you were in front of me physically I might salute you for these qualities! May you live a happy, healthy & long life with your loved ones! May the ALLSH bless you always!
I am one of those diyers that always get intimated and afraid that I am biting off more than I can chew. But watching yours videos always inspire me to take up the challenge. The sense of accomplishment I feel when I complete a challenge is SO satisfying. Thank you for being such a great instructor.
Excellent video and very thorough detailed explanation on all steps involved in this job. I agree that Toyota parts are far superior to aftermarket. I’d recommend making sure you have an original Toyota axle in the vehicle. Someone had already replaced my LX470 with aftermarket and it was leaking……not sure the boot job is worth it on an aftermarket axle. I ended up getting a new Toyota axle to be safe. Again great work. Appreciate you!
The speed and level of detail you give during your demonstration is perfect. If only my first year instructors had been like you, I would have picked up the 'pro-tips' that you make like never throwing out old parts during re & re just in case you need to reference parts size or location as stated around 7:13
Superbly shot, edited and explained ... you've gone done it again AMD - the pride you take in your work shows ...
Thanky you SO MUCH for this. Dealing with a Avensis 2006, D4D, and after a lot of search on the internet this one shows the simplest way of doing this. Many thanks.
wow this is REAL quality. Fantastic filming (often overlooked) and really wonderful clear and articulate commentary. i have subscribed. Congrats!
I love watching you work and explain in plain terms what you are doing and the pitfalls that may occur. You are a true professional with an honest approach to doing the work. Thank you so much and keep up the great videos. Cheers!
Thanks for this. While doing the undercarriage inspection while the oil drained from our Prius last month I saw the boots were getting dry and starting to crack. Not enough to leak, but enought to know I should expect them to go bad in the next year or two. Knowing that's coming some day, this video was timely and great to watch. God bless!
Awesome man. Very impressed with your abilities and knowledge on the Toyota's..just had coil pack changed in an 06 sienna I was shocked at what all had to be removed to do this...wished i had seen one of your videos on this first. Thank you for educating those who want to know how to do these things...2thumbs up.
Excellent tutorial. Being a retired millwright for 35 years and working with alll kind of bearing job, I think smacking the tripod or spider with a hammer can cause or maybe not, short term issues on the 3 bearings. I did several c- v axel and wheeI bearing in my life and I used when they are stuck a bearing splitter under the spider with a steel split bushing maintained together by a hose clamp, between tool and tripod to prevent any force on bearing and using a puller. But your air hammer is ok if only the tripod's yoke is involved. The same for getting the spider in. Using a big brass punch also on the center of the spider instead smacking directly on bearings with a rag on, would be appropriate to my opinion. Without any offense to you sir. We just work differently and you are such a good teacher.
A Bocsh Rotary Hammer drill (on hammer mode) and a bull nose chisel worked for me and I was thrilled. I believe because of the frequency of vibration. The spline was rusted solid to the knuckle. Thankfully didn't damage axle.
I'm not a DIY but I really enjoy watching you videos! Your descriptions as you progress through your video's is amazing. Thank you for your for sharing your wisdom and knowledge.
Thank you for sharing. Not only we need more knowledgeable mechanics like you but I think community colleges need auto mechanic instuctors like you in their programs. God bless you.
You're so good at you do! You make every thing look so easy. I seen a couple of your videos and learned so much from them. Thanks.
I used to be a an auto mechanic & I love listening to your channel as I learned a lot from you .
Great information, this is a saver. Makes perfect sense not to replace unless damaged. After market is definitely junk. Great job! 👍🏻
What is also frustrating is that there are Toyota shoes that require disassembly and there are aftermarket kits that have an open shoe so you can put it around without disassembly, but they're said to be low-quality.
Aftermarket is not junk lol we’ve used hundreds of aftermarket axles and never had a problem
@@epicclips456if the aftermarket is from China then most likely it's junk. I changed a front axle on a Volvo with aftermarket and in one week it was bad. Went straight to OEM and it lasted till the car was sold.
A hint on those CV joint greases: the black grease is black because it contains Molybdenum Di-sulfide which is called for in applications involving high pressure (large forces on small contact points) wear interfaces. Since "it couldn't hoit," I've been known to add some straight Moly grease to standard bearing and CV greases. Here, I'd asses that the smallest contact surfaces are in the outer, ball-in-groove joint and use the black grease there...or have some high Moly Di-sulfide grease on hand to add to the Lithium grease.
you are right, the inner residue look yellow 10:08
"Couldn't hoit" reminds me my brother calls moly grease "molybolium" grease. A light heart makes working on troublemakers like cars easier. Now, just try to get "molybolium" out of your mind! Mine is still stuck there.
@@flagmichael Easy: I learned it as "Molly B. Denum."
@toyotausa should be sponsoring this channel - You are far better at explaining this than I have ever seen from any dealership or factory manual.
This was one of the best videos i have ever seen. Well done.
Couple things worth mentioning, I never would hammer on those tripods that hard, I also like to mark where they were on the shaft. I also think the watery grease belongs in the tripod end, and the thick stuff on the CV joint. I agree that the best quality axles are the ones that came with the vehicle. (except Honda) Years ago I worked with a guy who would never install an A/M axle, only good used from a wreckers. Too many issues with the Chinese ones, the boots don't stay on, wont stay sealed, no balancing weights, vibrations, one year lifespans, etc. Good video, just when I thought I knew everything, I learned a few new things today.
Excellent video. i also had reservations on hammering on needle bearings who knows of it might cause flat spots on them. going on the side of precaution i would go right to the air hammer both ways. overall i like your way of teaching . Well done.
Always great at explaining the process and almost makes me feel like I could do the job. NOT will leave it for the professionals. Keep up the great videos, it at least helps us understand what might be causing problems with our cars.
Thank you very much for this video. Even I won't do it, (i don't have that model year) But I always enjoyed and learn something from you, your integrity and clear instructions made me respect you much more. Again, thanks.
Very meticulous and clearly explained. You are awesome and I very knowledgeable in what you do. I hope you keep making more of these terrific videos. May you and your family be Blessed! Thank You.
Even though I do not own a Toyota car, I still want to learn from your video...because the principle of this job is very similar. This video also remind me an embassment I had years ago trying to replace the same thing on my Nissan Quest when I was lying on the ground to do it. I was not able to pop this out for lack of leverage due to the cramped space, which forced me to put every thing back on and sent it to an auto shop with my new part. Lesson learned in a hard way but I did not regret it as I had tried at least.
You also had the sense to know when to cut your losses... a critical bit of sense I don't often have!
Thank you for sharing! When I fixed my Tacoma, it took many curse words and strikes from hand tools to get the spider off. It took forever. Most people share videos on how to simply replace the entire axle. This is MUCH better than removing the entire axle just to repair the boots. Thank you!
This is a top notch instructional video. It explained with so much detail. Thanks for sharing your time and posting this.
Great vid! Thanks for taking the time an going the extra mile with vid shots…be blessed.
I really loved this video! It shows so many tips and tricks that really help avoiding trouble and catastrophes:) It reminds me of my youth, when I started laying on my knees and fixing mopeds as a 13 year old in the early 80’s. After college I got to work at a professional motorcycle workshop. It was heaven! All the lifts, pro and special tools! It was such a joy to learn to use all of this. Luckily we had a boss who saw the value in good and right tools, so if a new special tool was needed; just order it! All this came back to me as you demonstrated the OK and the perfect way to crimp:) Keep up the good and honest videos! All the best from Tore, Norway 😅
Perfect timing! I had a clamp come off. I actually just used a needle grease gun tip under the axle seal into the joint. Then put a new clamp on, cleaned it up and called it good. Seems fine so far.
Totally awesome video ! Thank you! I am a retired aircraft mechanic and a do-it-yourselfer ! 😊
Thanks for taking the time to make the video. I haven't changed boots since tech school thirty years ago. Since I own a Toyota with 165K I will probably be doing this job at some point.
As always, incredible video, Amd. I try to maintain my wife’s 15’ Sienna as much as I can. I have never done a re-boot Job on a Toyota but you have made it look very easy and worth trying if I need too. Thank you for passing on your knowledge to us! Greatly appreciated!
Thank you again for your great videos. You aren't kidding about non-OEM "rebuilt" drive axles. When I worked in the auto parts buisness, they were referred to as "spray and pray" axles. The old axles were steam cleaned, rebooted, and sprayed with paint and the seller prayed they did not came back under warranty. If you find a worn CV joint, the best option is to replace just the joint and boot on the axle with OEM new.
Absolutely Awesome Job!! That was one of the best videos I've seen on KZhead. Thank you so much!!
Thanks for putting out this video and sharing your knowledge via your excellent teaching skills. I can tell that you’re a veteran mechanic-a real pro! Thanks
Nobody around here replaces anything until there is no choice. Excellent for people who pay attention AND care!
Very well done and fully explained the procedures on how to replace the CV boots on a Toyota's front Axel. Thanks and continue to show lots of informative videos. God bless
It's hard to imagine anyone doing what you do any better than you do. A+
AMD, I really appreciate your expertise, teaching method, attention to detail, and work ethic. You never disappoint. Thank you so much for producing high quality, highly value content, and for the gift of sharing your knowledge! God bless you sir!🙏🏼
If the CV axle that you took apart was the factory original, it looks like the lighter color grease was in the inner joint. Great video. Keep up the excellent work!
i think the dark grease is moly e. p. and pretty sure it goes on the outer joint L1 master car and truck
I agree, the lighter grease was on the inner joint for me too. In addition, the inner boot is small compared to the outer boot for a Sienna. I did it this way. Thanks for the clamp size details. I made sure to use the same length camps in my case.
@@juanrodriguez-ry6yt Yes, moly + lithium whereas I believe the inner joint is only lithium grease. I believe the outer joint takes a lot more stress and needs the moly extreme pressure grease. My experience backs this up as I have always had the outer joint wear out first (not because of a split boot, but from wear).
@@juanrodriguez-ry6yt agree i used to do the old BMC Minis and the black Moly Ep grease was used for the outer CV joints , i remember doing Hondas innthe 80s and they had the same spider pot joints on the inner and it was the clearer grease and black on the outer
@@doctormengele961 i can still remenber the 2tc and the 8rc engines
I a the physics teacher of 27 years, and I love your OCD, your thorough descriptions, your rationale, your instructional pedagogy, and your job well done. You are a great teacher yourself friend.
Impressive! You explain things really well. Also, you are very knowledgeable. Even for the person who does not have the desire to attempt this, your video allows us to get the best repair and not get taken for a ride. Thank you!
Hi AMD, great video as usual. I really appreciate the way you point everything out. You are a gentleman and great mechanic. Thanks for everything. Stay safe and happy! See you next time.
Another great video from you. The detail level is unbelievable. Helps a lot. Thank you
You are an honest man, God bless you. I hope your business will be more successful than you wish.
Thank you a million for such an excellent video! It was a little late for me, the same thing happened to my Camry and I threw away my original axles just because I saw the broken boots. and I put in some replacements that only lasted 1 year. At the end of having the same thing happen for 3 consecutive years, buy the originals. and with your video, I learned that in the future only use the repair kit and leave the original one that I just bought. But it wasn't $400.. it was $685 that they charged for the driver side shaft. But, thank you again because you are a true mechanic. God bless you for being a blessing to many.
Love your videos - being retired now I don't get to play on cars as much as I used too - and the hands don't get as dirty watching videos. I've always been nervous about hitting the spider - I tend to using a three jaw puller. I always mark the axle / shaft and spider so the rollers go in the same leg of the inner - maybe I'm a nervous Nellie. Love the little Toyota tool - never seen one in Australia even in dealerships.
I had one of these rear axles go out in my wh statesman. In tracking down which axle, we concluded it was the right side going out. 3 days after replacing it, the noise returned. Took the car to a diff shop who told me it was on the left side. Got second hand units for both sides. After 2 weeks of no noise I concluded I fixed the noise. Took apart the old axle, grease had shriveled and dried, and there were millions of tiny steel shavings in the inner joint, along with 40 mm of side play.
agree with you of making marks to the axle,shaft and spider, probably the balance them at factory
I cringed when the steel hammer hits the spider rollers lol; there’re needle bearings inside. A brass hammer or a chisel at the spider part next to the splines would be safer.
Yeah would go straight to the collar. Impacting a bearing is asking for problems.
Im with you guys here... I couldnt believe what I was seeing..those rollers and needles, slightest damage or imperfection from the hammering and you Will feel it as a vibration in the axle as you drive..even putting the tripod back on the spline and Not marking its exact original fit position, you can get vibrations..so wacking the rollers like that is russian roulette
AMD, great video showing all the steps and your tips and advice gained from your valuable experience.
Thanks, it's super comprehensive and your English very clear for a foreign guy like me. Greetings from Belgium.
You are truly a master at your craft, need this repair done and I learned a lot, thank you for great content and info.
Ahmad, Great video! Your shop walls and floor are very bright so you need to consider the light balance when you are under the car or making a point about some part of the car. Also, wear blue not black gloves to increase visibility.
Excellent video! The only thing I do differently is to cut the boot immediately, slide it down, then air hammer the spider mount out without hitting those rollers, or chisel it out.
You are awesome! Thank you-my 2004 Lexus RX330 has slightly leaking boots. Now I can ask for the kit with confidence and know what to expect.❤
Can't thank you enough for the amazing work you do! Awesome at every level.
Looking back , I made that mistake. At 150k miles the axle boots on my 06 Sienna started to leak and I installed inexpensive aftermaket axles instead and they were only good up to 30 k miles and that is being generous. The wobble while accelerating started and also the vibration with heavy load and when drivng uphill. Just recently I bit the bullet and installed OEMs. Yes they were expensive as hell but I intend to keep this van for many more years. I'm at 206k miles and the van drives like new. No more wobble or vibrations. I periodically spray them with AT 205.