Toyota / Lexus CV Axle Replacement - Passenger Side - Camry / Avalon / Sienna / RAV4 / Lexus ES
This video will show you how to replace the passenger side split axle shaft typically found on Toyota passenger cars (i.e., Camry, Avalon, Highlander, ES300, ES330 & ES350). The customer had been complaining about wheel vibration coming from the passenger side front end after driving into a large pot hole. The wheel was not bent and the tires were found not to be damaged, out of round or balance. However, with both front wheels off the ground, the engine running and the car's transmission positioned in drive, axle wobbling in and out of its outer cv housing was visible. Either the axle was bent or the internal bearings or bearing cage were damaged from the pot hole experience.
Toyota's passenger side axle shaft design is consistent for the majority of their front wheel drive vehicles; therefore this procedure can be used on many of Toyota's vehicles. A 12 point 30 mm nut is used to secure the axle to the wheel hub. A 6 point 30 mm socket will not work as a substitute on this type of nut. Depending on the environment where the car resides (road salt in winter & moisture) will determine the ease with which the axle's splines will slide out of the wheel hub. Corrosion buildup between the axle splines and the wheel hub is typical and may require hammering the shaft end to force the splines loose from the wheel hub with either a heavy duty punch tool or a powered jack hammer. The center half shaft bearing support hanger is braced and bolted onto the engine block. This bearing is held in place by a 12 mm bolt and a large snap ring. The snap ring's protruding ears can be pinched using long needle nose pliers to move the ring out of its support groove. Afterwards, the center bearing can be removed from its support hanger using a long punch tool and hammer. The tip of the punch tool should be braced against inner cv joint housing. A series of hammer blows to the punch should slowly work out the center bearing from it support hanger.
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Parts & Specialty Tools:
Castrol Transmax ATF/CVT Full Synthetic Universal Automatic Transmission Fluid, 1 Gallon
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Milwaukee M18 FUEL 18-Volt Lithium-Ion Cordless 1/2 in. High Torque Impact Wrench w/Friction Ring (1,400 lbs Torque!)
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Milwaukee 48-11-1850 M18 Redlithium 5.0Ah Bat Pack
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Milwaukee M12 & M18 Replacement Battery Charger
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Axle Nut Socket, 30 mm, 1/2 in Drive, 12 Point
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Axle Nut Socket, 32 mm, 1/2 in Drive, 6 point Deep
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Long Reach Needle Nose Pliers
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Toyota Sienna 1998 thru 2006 (Haynes Repair Manual)
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Snap Ring Pliers
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Cardone CV Half Shaft Assembly (with 3.0L V6 engine)
LEXUS ES300 1997-2001
TOYOTA AVALON 1997-2004
TOYOTA CAMRY 1997-2001
TOYOTA SIENNA 1998-2003
TOYOTA SOLARA 1999-2003
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LEXUS ES300 2002-2003
LEXUS ES330 2004-2006
LEXUS ES350 2007-2012
LEXUS RX330 2004-2006
LEXUS RX350 2007-2009
TOYOTA AVALON 2005-2016
TOYOTA CAMRY 2002-2017
TOYOTA HIGHLANDER 2004-2007
TOYOTA SOLAR 2004-2008
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If the axle cv bearings, cage and shaft are not damaged, you can re-boot and grease your existing cv axle:
Outer CV Replacement Boot
LEXUS ES300 1997-2001
LEXUS RX330 2004-2006
LEXUS RX350 2007-2009
TOYOTA AVALO 1998-2002
TOYOTA CAMRY 1997-2001
TOYOTA COROLLA 2009-2010
TOYOTA HIGHLANDER 2010-2013
TOYOTA MATRIX 2009-2013
TOYOTA SIENNA 1998-2002
TOYOTA SOLAR 1999-2002
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Outer CV Replacement Boot
TOYOTA AVALON 2003-2004
TOYOTA CAMRY 2002-2006
TOYOTA COROLLA 2005-2006
TOYOTA HIGHLANDER 2003-2007
TOYOTA MATRIX 2003-2006
TOYOTA RAV4 2003-2005
TOYOTA SIENNA 2003-2006
TOYOTA SOLARA 2002-2006
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Outer CV Replacement Boot
LEXUS ES350 2007-2018
LEXUS HS250H 2010-2012
LEXUS NX200T 2015-2017
LEXUS NX300 2018
LEXUS RX300 1999-2003
LEXUS RX330 2004-2006
LEXUS RX350 2007-2009
TOYOTA AVALON 2005-2018
TOYOTA CAMRY 2008-2009
TOYOTA CELICA 1999-2005
TOYOTA HIGHLANDER 2001-2013
TOYOTA PRIUS 2010
TOYOTA RAV4 1996-2018
TOYOTA SIENNA 2007-2010
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#toyotacvaxle
Hands down the best explanation on KZhead of how to do this job. Took me less than an hour and a half, and that includes set up and clean up. I just finished mine, and I feel like I won the car maintenance lottery. My carrier bearing wasn't rusted, and once I took off the snap ring, my assembly just slid right out. My advice is to remove the brake caliper bracket before sliding out the cv axle from the wheel bearing, and to have PLENTY of light by the carrier bearing when you're trying to put the snap ring back on. I was trying to do it by feel, and it took me 15 minutes of trying before I put a magnetic light in the area. Only took less than 5 minutes to slip it in after that.
Thanks for sharing your successful repair story using the video as a guide!
Yes, you sure did hit the car repair lottery! I’ve been working on mine for 2 days 1/2 the shaft broke off so I’m working with the inside area only and it won’t come loose no matter what I do. I’m beyond frustrated! Congrats to you.
Do you know why the axle nut shreds the threads on the cv axle?
@@antoinedunklin9682 maybe you got the wrong nut? Only use the same nut that came with your axle. The thread pitch could be different between the new axle and the old one. Also, try not to use an impact wrench.
@@melntess The original nut tore up the threads coming off. I opened up the indentation and it still tore it up. Same thing happened on a 2010 Camry smh
You’re the only person that brought up the bracket everybody else skipped it or didn’t show how they pulled it out thanks a lot 🙏🏼
You bet!
Thanks
Hey there im luis from fresno California.i have a 04 camry it vibrates going 60 to 70 ... now it vibrates more i replaced left one ....is it the passenger side on a budget need your help ..please thanks ....@@hardlymovingpro
I can't see how he got the axle out that easy without shearing the guide pins. I literally had to cut the axle in half with a torch. Then I had to put the bracket in a vice, heat the shit out of it to knock the other end through. I want to make a video to show how difficult this job is.
I've watched a number of KZhead videos on the subject. Yours is the best! 3 trips to Harbor Freight for tools, 1 order for parts to Rock Auto, and 2 days & I'm done. I'm retired, bad knee and I still did it. I deserve a medal. The hardest part was getting down & bending over. Getting old sucks. Sure, it took me awhile, but I know it's done right! Oh, not to mention I saved $600.
Thanks for sharing your installation success story! Wonderful on how much you saved doing it yourself as well!
Your the man! Was quoted $900 to replace the front axles in my mother in laws 2006 Lexus ES330. Ordered them online along with the 12 point socket for around $200 and was able to switch them both out in an afternoon with your videos. Great Job.
Right on!
I have a 2007 es350 and my car gets kinda stuck between park and reverse. Would this be a problem solver for that. It shifts great outside getting out of park
@@lilwalgreenscoldandflu6968 definitely not from the cv axle I’m not really a mechanic but I know the cv axles don’t interfere with shifting
Straight to the point, showing the details. That's the way to do videos like this. Nice job.
Thanks!
Thank you sir, Straight to point no bull intros and blah blah..... well done!
Thanks ... Glad you liked it!
@@hardlymovingpro ll 11⅖ All 96
Finally somebody who does what they say they're going to do, straight and to the point. Appreciate you brotha bigtime.
Thanks and you bet!
Watched the 1A auto video on how to change the passenger CV axle on my Camry…that vid almost made me give up but I came across you’re vid and you made it WAY easier than 1A did. Thanks for the quality content!
Good for you and thanks for sharing!
Thank you for the great video. Just replaced axle RH side on 2008 Lexus ES350, followed your instruction, it took me an hour for the entire job. Car is not shaking anymore... no more vibration.
Great to hear and glad it helped!
Awesome... and very refreshing to watch a "how to" video thats not slow and poorly edited video with a ton nonsense talk. To the point and fast so I can get my job done. Thanks!
Glad you found it helpful!
One of the best videos I have seen about this type of work
Thanks!
Great job dude. You focus on the right things and actually show how it is done. I need these kind of videos for all my projects
Thanks and appreciate your post!
@@hardlymovingpro ĺĺĺĺĺĺĺl
Clean, simple, straightforward, no bs; love it!
Outstanding info and clarity. I was not aware of the carrier bearing and weather or not it was a separate piece. Mine is exposed and coming apart. Now I know it's just a piece of the new axle. Very helpful!!
Thanks and glad you found it useful!
Thanks and glad you found it useful!
just gotten thru replacing passenger side axle great video some of the others has u taking stuff off u need not too.i am not a pro but am mechanical incline took me a hour and a half to do the job .thank you sir for taking the time to make these videos they truely do help people like me out that does their on work .
Good job and thanks for the post!
Another great video. And another satisfied customer. He is an honest and very capable mechanic. Hope your New Year is going well so far. Thanks for a great job on my timing belt Sir.
Your welcome and thanks for your post!
Great video, very well shot and lit. 2009 ES350. Took me +1hour to get the indented axle nut un-stuck and +30mins to go buy a new 1/2" breaker bar after my old one busted on the big nuts holding the strut. The snap ring was easy in and out, and both bearings slid out easily, no rust. It was a pain getting the strut back on the wheel mount, partly due to anti-sway rod.
Good for you on a successful repair! I think you know why i use a high powered impact driver.... No more breaker bars!
Thanks for getting detail on that bearing!... I replaced my driver's side which was easy, but wanted to know what I would be up against with the passenger side. That's a great tip about lubricating the bearing - if you ever need to go back in there it should be an easier job.
Thanks for your post!
Thank you so much, as I said I just moved cross country. My dad would always teach and help me. But you've saved me alot of money!
Glad I could help!
Man, you're the best mechanic on YT!! I wish you were in the Louisville, KY area!!!
Thanks for your comment and support!
How things in Louisville these days?
One of the best videos here, no bullshit straight to the point and accurate
Thanks! Appreciate your comment.
Short, sweet, and freak’n accurate!
Thanks!
very good camera angles!!!! detailed and to the point. thanks for everything!
Glad you liked it!
Great video! as others have metioned, the camera work was great, description was great, and calling out the challenges we may encounter was spot on. Thanks! I'm going to tackle this on a Lexus this evening and I feel completely prepared.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Follow-up on my repair. Everything went great! I actually watched the wrong video as I was replacing the driver side rather than passenger side, but driver side was even easier! I always keep a roll of bailing wire nearby, and just hang the brakes up and out of the way using the coil springs and some wire.
Good for you and thanks for sharing!
Great information on this video, I was very fortunate that the bearing came out easily along with the shaft when I removed it😅
Nice work!
Great video. I've watched it countless times recently for reference while I change the axle on my 07 ES
Glad it helped!
Not a single other person acknowledged the snap ring as being an obstacle thank you
You bet!
Thank you so much, this is one of the best replacement videos I seen.
Glad it was helpful!
Everything in this video worked great BUT my axle bearing was stuck and I ended up searching on YOU TUBE " removing stuck axle bearing on Lexus es330" there was a 2 plus minute video that uses a high grade bolt to break it... that video was a great help also!!
Was that the wheel or center axle support bearing?
Axle support bearing
Very straight forward and easy to follow along. Thanks for the video.
You bet!
I wish I could have seen this a week ago. Lol! You should tag this for the Rav4. Helps A LOT!!!
Thanks. I'll do that for the RAv4
EXCELLENT VID! But, you’re the only vid I seen shows bolting the bearing bracket/pedestal in FIRST. I’m a DIY guy so the other 3 vids show guys wrestling it in. Misleading! I was losing it. I spoke to the owner of CV Axle Express in SLC UT USA. He said put in carrier bearing first. AND, like you said- same for me- went in like butter. And I got an OEM rebuild lifetime warranty from the same guy $80. Great vid, I’m subscribed, thanks a ton.
Glad it helped and thanks for sharing your experience!
Good evening (so thankful for your vids), this job is wearing me out! I have a 97 lexus es300. So far, on the passenger side I have replaced the control arm, tie rod, ball joint, sway bar and the axle. That axle was a breeze to remove. Putting in back in.....not so much. That doggone snap ring.....gee whiz! I had to seat the bottom half of the ring in place, then get a long piece of rope and attach to the top part of the ring and get my son to pull it down from the front end of car to get to snap it into place with a flat head screwdriver. I had to put down the nose pliers (arthritis in hands). The opposite end of axle does NOT want to go back into the knuckle end. I'm getting major resistance. I gotta take something off again to get it in there. My nerves are on edge. I had to walk away. I'll pick up where i left off tomorrow.
Sometimes the inner CV axle bearing pops out of its cage when the steering knuckle is pulled away. This prevents the knuckle from aligning with lower strut mounting holes and the outer cv axle splines with the wheel hub. You'll have to work the cv shaft back into the inner bearing cage.
@@hardlymovingpro I just finished putting it back together. I did take the knuckle apart from the strut and got the axle in there with no problem. See that's what happens when you clock out from work and go straight to work on your car. All common sense goes out the window. I sure do thank you for ALL YOU DO to help us out!!!
You bet!
Excellent video. This is how you make a tutorial video. Very well done, sir
Thanks for your post and support!
Gunna be using this video to do the axle on my spyder this week , very helpful as I’m building the car from a shell (first time working on a car) thank you very much !
Good luck and keep us updated with your progress!
Great job and calrity, just what one needs to see where the critical poins are, perfect.
Thanks!
Working on my es300 to replace the rear engine mount. This axle is a pain in the ***. Thanks for the how to!
I hear you!
Did this on my 07 avalon🤬not so easy in Chicago winter salt, had to cut the axle shaft between trans and center bearing race bracket then remove bracket with the rest of the obd shaft. The hard part was brutally beating the bearing out of the center bearing mount. 🥵I love your channel great footage and maintenance 🙏
Thanks!
Awesome job . I rented a puller for the axle bearing hub but still can’t get it out. I will try the chisel and hammer method. Thank you for making a complete diy video. Cheers 🍻
Thanks and good luck!
Great repair video for this passenger side. I haven't done this passenger side yet. Driver side YES.
Thanks for sharing and good luck with the passenger side!
Jeez you make it look so easy. Hopefully it goes that smoothly for me. I think im going to skip pulling it out the carrier bearing as I'm gonna completely replace that motor mount bracket too.
Whatever works!
Bro you did better than the rock auto video man, thanks for this video!!! Seems much easier to remove the knuckle from the strut tower instead of lower ball joint.
Thanks! You're right ... easier to remove the knuckle from the strut tower. Have been criticized for not removing the lower ball joint. Some claim removing from the strut throws off the alignment ... which it doesn't. Go figure.
Gotta finish mine tomorrow you made it look so easy. Hope the same goes for me. Great video
Best of luck!
Thanks - great video! Very helpful to understand all the steps before tacking my own. I just changed the driver & passenger side CV axle on my 2012 Toyota Sienna. Only removed the lower control arm (2 nuts & 1 bolt) and was able to move the strut around to remove the axle. I really dreaded the upcoming fight with that carrier bearing rusted into the housing. Purchased special carbide cutting blades, hammer bits, pry bars, etc - only to decide to try soaking the bearing in Seafoam Extreme Marine overnight - and you won't believe it. Once I removed the clip and bolt, while pulling the lower control arm off, the shaft just slipped right out. I was blown away. The interior showed signs of rust and I definitely saw rust drain when I doused it in lube, but never thought it would literally dissolve it. The key was letting it soak overnight, just like Project Farm recommends. Hope other experience same results. Thanks again for taking the time to share your video - wouldn't have tackled this without watching your experience.
Thanks for sharing! Anything to assist removal of that center axle bearing would be helpful for all attempting to perform this job. Another potential problem I've encountered is detaching the outer cv axle away from the hub. The splines sometimes get rust stuck and I use a electric jack hammer to work it loose.
Your videos are excellent! Thank you!
Thanks! Glad you like them!
Thank you for the video. I'm doing this project right now.
Good luck!
Very good camera angles especially considering you did it from the ground, I prefer to watch jobs done from the ground because most do it your selfers like me don't have a lift.
Exactly! For do it your selfers!
You make it look really easy!
Thanks! Do it enough times and you find easier ways to do it.
Very good close-ups ...thank you!!!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
What did you use to lube up the hub side?
Thank you. BTW, for my Avalon 2000, the nut is 90178-22001, which is 6-point.
The newer Toyota's are 12 point for some reason. Took awhile to find a 30 mm 12 point. Eventually had to buy one off the net.
Excellent video! Thank you for posting!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
By any chance, is the speed ring supposed to be completely visible through the speed sensor hole?
Great video Sir! Mines still too stubborn to come off. I used all sorts of equipment. Im thinking of just hooking it to my truck and pull it off. Lol
I hear ya! Whatever works!
Very helpful, thx. My bearing was frozen in the carrier bracket on my 2013 Lexus ES 350. Ended up having to sawzaw it out after beating on it with various chisels and small sledges, an hour with a slide hammer and axle pulley tool, and an hour with an axle popper and a small sledge. Nothing. Even tried removing the bracket only to learn there's alignment pins that prevent you from removing it!!! Once out, ended up having to hit it with a full sized sledge and a full swing even after chiseling out most of the bearing and beating it up on a bench. Whew. Refurbished the bracket including the bolt with the rubber tip. Threw it all back together, easy enough, problem solved (Vibration in the 40 mph range on acceleration).
I hear ya! Had to do what you went through on some occasions. I used a rotary tool with a metal cutting disc to cut the axle. Lots of flying sparks!
I love your videos and you explain it very well , i learn a ton from you ... Tyvm
You bet! Thanks for your post and support!
You do a good job on your videos...quick and to the point. Thanks.
Glad you like them!
Thank you for posting this 🙌
My pleasure!
This video is very helpful! I am stuck on trying to get it back in, mine is refusing to go an 1/8 of an inch farther in.
The middle shaft bearing into the carrier bracket?
Amazing to watch this. You make good use of that impact wrench! Simple question for you please: the axle nut is crimped to keep it from loosening. When you first take it off, do you need to uncrimp it so it doesn't damage the threads on the axle? Or is the nut metal soft enough that it will just uncrimp automatically by that bad boy Milwaukee? Thanks!
The torque will uncrimp the nut
Great video. Best on YT I’ve seen. Thanks!
Thanks!
You're the only person who doesn't mention torque
Repair videos are just a guide and is not a substitute for a repair manual with detailed torque specs.
This is the best video about this
Thanks 👍
Nice video straight to it, no waste of time ... 👍
Glad you liked it!
I did this on 07 Lexus ES350; same setup. Luckily for me, axle came right out. I did not have to remove the two bolts on the knuckle. I removed the sway bar link and tie rod. If you separate the wheel from the knuckle, you have to get a new alignment.
That's another way of doing it to get enough clearance to remove the outer cv shaft from the steering knuckle. A little more work IMHO. Never had alignment issues with Toyota vehicles where I removed the strut mount bolts. I'd agree with alignment problems with European cars. On a Infiniti I30 (aka Nissan Maxima) that I had an alignment issue, I fixed it by getting both wheels off the ground, loosen the suspension nuts, twisted the wheels in the opposite direction of the alignment pull, torqued down the bolts and then everything straighten out!
Should we get the wheel alignment done after an axle replacement?
In most cases no. If the steering wheel stays centered and the car doesn't pull to either the left or right.
Keep 'em coming. Great video!
Thanks! Will do!
This was really helpful thanks a ton
Glad it helped!
Excellent video it was a extremely helpful. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks so much, Sir! for such a helpful video. Helped me a lot to get my Camry works done properly!
Great to hear!
Great camera work!
Thanks!
Thanks for the video. I am using it to replace mine. I would suggest just removing the steering tie rod linkage and taking off the 2 bolts and one nut that hold on the lower ball joint. If you do that everything swings out of the way and you won't have to get an alignment when you re-assemble. Also you don't have to mess with removing the caliper.
That's another way of doing it if I were working in a shop with a lift.
I don't have a lift either. I am doing a 1998 Sienna and the shaft is too hard for the diablo demon carbon tipped blade. I have to use a cut-off wheel @@hardlymovingpro
Some of the shafts are hollow so you don't need to cut as deep. I use a paint stick to mark a circular line around the shaft while rotating it. I then use the line as a guide to make sure my cut stays true and not on an angle. I also rotate the shaft while cutting.
Finally got the shaft cut off but I still could not pound it out. I ended up taking the mount out and putting it on a cement block and pounding it out. Inside of the mount was very rusty. Also the rubber insert was ripped, so I ordered a new mount. Could have just cut the mount if I new I was buying a replacement. @@hardlymovingpro
What kind of grease did you use for the lubrication of everything?
Automotive bearing grease. On hoses and anything rubber; silicone or dielectric grease. Oil and petro grease makes rubber swell up; silicone won't.
gracias por la orientación del cambio de los soportes del motor del toyota cambry
You're welcome!
Awesome video and great shots!
Glad you enjoyed it
Great video. Any suggestions on fully seating the axle into the differential? Having difficulty getting the last 3/8" in all the way.
The 3/8" may be an illusion caused by the dust shield being pressed to far out onto the shaft. As long as the center bearing is seated in the bearing mount, you are fully seated.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for the advice. I had to tap it in some with a board and hammer and heard the change in tune, like driving and seating a wheel bearing, but your right: that dust cover was throwing me for a loop.
Just had my mechanic compmete this for me as im unable to do anything at the moment, i realized after looking at the job im seeing the 1/4 )gap between the transmission and shaft, its all together and running. Is this ok? Just want to make sure its correct thanks
I just had this done on a 4th generation Gs350 at a local shop and when i got it back it was still clicking so i took it to lexus and they said the local shop couldn't get it out so they left part of the old axel inside and attached the after market one. Is that possible?
Yes. Sounds like they detached and pulled the old outer shaft by removing the boot from the inner bearing/cv carrier housing then swapped the new outer shaft with the old shaft. In that way, they kept old inner shaft and carrier bearing intact. Rather unethical IMHO.
Thanks for your sharing knowledge! 👍
No problem 👍
Thank you for this video, truly appreciate it. Used it as a guide to replace mine (20007 Camry) and everything went smooth, except for the center bearing removal which required a torch. Few questions if you don't mind. (1) by disconnecting the knuckle from the strut and letting it hang, is it possible to rip the tie rod end grease boot? (2) I used an aftermarket axle from Autozone. When installed, the metal dust shield on the axle touches the lip of the axle seal. Is it supposed to press fit inside the lip? In this case it wouldn't be possible given the dimensions. (3) When rotating the axle by hand in neutral, I hear an initial clicking noise coming from the transmission, almost like it takes a moment for everything to engage, then it goes away as I continue to spin the wheel. I only hear it on the replaced side. Not sure if this is normal. I don't hear any weird noises while driving; however, when shifting from P - R, it makes a loud popping noise. Trying to figure out if everything is okay, or if there's a problem with the Duralast axle. Please let me know what you think. Thank you.
Good job. The dust boot is very robust and i wouldn't worry about it. The dust shield should not touch. Wouldn't worry about the clicking unless it gets louder.
@@hardlymovingpro thank you for the reply. One more question. When you install the cv axle, do you usually have to hammer the outer end to get the shaft fully seated in the transaxle? Mine seemed to go in easily by hand having lubricated the center bearing housing. I’m thinking that maybe my axle isn’t fully seated and this could be causing the noises. Guess I need to revisit.
The right (passenger side) axle should slide in .... As opposed to the left side where the retention clip needs to be compressed via force.
I have es350 2015. There is a humming noise at 30-60 speed . -tires rotated, the noise was still there and nothing changed -front wheel bearing checked and no noise from them Is it possible the the passenger side axel bearing is producing the noise . What is the best way to found out Note: i lifted the car as u mentioned and put it drive while the wheels are free, i was getting a poping noise as the wheels spine, not sure if that from the axel being in sharp angle and the universal joint inside the axel is out of the angle of freedom ! Any suggestions
If definitely not the wheel bearings, then it has to be the axle(s).
@@hardlymovingpro thanks for reply, One mechanic is saying it might be transmission, the car has 66k and no shifting issues at all. Any tipis on how to troubleshoot it and distinguish the source of the noise ?
Great video, just a quick question. I noticed the rubber boots to my cv axels were ripped and it looked like there was some type of grease inside the boot and around the area it ripped. Is it fine to just do replace the boot or will i need to replace the whole axle? theyre ripped on both drivers and passengers side so it will be a costly replacement if i go that route. Im just hoping i can replace just the boot.
I'd normally would recommend a rebuild but have been plagued with bad ones with the CRV. Here's a video I published on how to reboot them. kzhead.info/sun/psiYk8aRbaalgnk/bejne.html
Great video Sir. You know your stuff. If on our 2008 es 350 only boot is torn, can I just replace it and Do you have a video on that? Thanks for being there for a lot of us. Much luck to you!
Thanks! You could get away with rebooting if the tear was recent and no water and dirt has gotten in. Here's a video showing how I rebooted a CV axle: kzhead.info/sun/psiYk8aRbaalgnk/bejne.html
Thanks for recording
my pleasure!
Good job..!! like and subscribed
Thanks for the sub!
What is your opinion on the Dorman "Loaded Knuckles" wheel bearing unit? My WB's are bad on my '06 Avalon and I think I'm going to go this route.
A loaded knuckle means you don't have to go through the hassle of pressing out the bad bearing and pressing in a new one with the wheel hub. To replace the knuckle, you need to detach from the knuckle: 1. Lower control arm 2. Suspension Strut 3. Outer tie rod end 4. Brake rotor and caliper. 5. Push out the cv axle from the splines of the wheel hub. Here's a video where I replaced the wheel bearing for a Ford (not that much different than a Toyota): kzhead.info/sun/eMWpgr17ZJiJa58/bejne.html
Great video. Was there a cotter pin or tabs to bend back in order to get the axle nut off? I'm doing the control arms and struts as soon as stabilizer bars come. 03 Lexus ES300
No cotter pin. At the end of the video, the new axle nut is bent into the axle shaft groove with a punch to prevent the nut from coming off. Also, the nut is torqued down to 180 lbs
Here's a link to a video where I did a complete suspension rebuild: kzhead.info/sun/gJ2rpsiqaqSfg30/bejne.html
Thank you so much. You are the best🙂
I’ve got a 2012 camry se. Would this same procedure be applicable for that year car? Did you get oem toyota part? Good explanation of this procedure. Still has a couple of steps that I’ll have to look at several times to understand what was done.
Yes. The axle setup is the same between the CE, LE, XLE and SE.
Hello On my 2010 Lexus es 350 the driver side axle fits fine up until it's tightened then it becomes loose between transmission leaving a gap in between transmission. Do you know why this is happening. Someone came to look at it and told me on auto zone there's 2 options a long one and shorter one . Could it be that the axle that was put on is not the right fit ? Please let me know .
I'll assume the gap is the free play from the C clip mounting groove that's slightly overextended in the transmission. The C clip prevents the axle from slipping out when pulling on the axle during turns. Ideally there should be no free play. I don't believe that's a problem as long as the axle doesn't pop out.
@@hardlymovingpro i went over a branch and that caused the steering wheel to jerk. The steering wheel feels wandery and loose which is why I'm concerned.
If you remove the lower ball joint most of the time you don't have to worry about getting it aligned afterwards or you can scribe where the strut mounts onto the the housing
Thanks for sharing!
Great tutorial. I've watched several vids replacing CV axle on Lexus RX330 2005 and my car doesn't have the retainer clip or the bolt next to it!?? Any suggestions on how to proceed? I thought I did my homework and was ready to wrestle this beast, but no clip or pressure bolt has me scratching my head....
Without seeing it, could be a two piece cv assembly where the outer assembly slides into the inner which runs from the trans to a center bearing support bracket.
Great video! Awesome job!
Thanks for the visit!
Thanks for your sharing knowledge ♡
You bet!
If you are a DIY and dont have a lift this may work for you. I recently got this job done by using a pickle fork between the housing and the bracket. Then hammer the pickle fork handle toward drivers side. This successfully broke the bearing free of the bracket. Then it was easy to finish the job using the hammer pulley, but i could have just used a hammer and chisel to finish the job. The hammer pulley did not work by itself until the pickle fork broke the bearing free.
Thanks for sharing! Sometime the rust build up is so bad in the center bearing carrier I wind up hack sawing the shaft between the transmission and that carrier. Then I hammer away at the center bearing shaft until it pops out.
Great video. I notice that the lower splash shields are missing. Did you remove them or were they missing before you started the job??
Thanks for your post! Probably missing with these older vehicles i work on.
I gotta do this job tomorrow wish me luck guys .
Let us know how it works out!
Any update? How was it?
Great Video. I have highlander 2011 V6 AWD. The driver outer boot is broken. Do you recommend i change the boot only or change the whole axle? the OEM axle is expensive so I wonder if you recommend a certain aftermarket brand. thx
If the boot split was recent (meaning no moisture or dirt had time to ruin the bearings and cage), rebooting may be worthwhile. Here's a link to a video showing you how to do it: kzhead.info/sun/psiYk8aRbaalgnk/bejne.html Otherwise, you can get a APWI, SurTrack, Cardone or GSP brand cv axle replacement.
Nuts to buy OEM for this. Way too much $$. Just buy Cardone replacement. I have have good experience with mine after replacing
I was looking at your jacking points... it looks like you're using a floor jack on the pinch weld and jack stands on the frame rail? I always double up but just want to be sure this would be the correct way? Great video by the way... absolutely right to the point but just want to be safe! Thanks
I use the frame rails for the jack stands since they're a little lower that the pinch weld lift point.
Awesome work 👏🏼
Thank you so much 😀
what lube did you use on the outer spindle please and thank you kindly for this video.
Just standard wheel bearing grease so the spindle won't be so difficult to remove next time it may have to be removed.
I have to do this job on Friday :) Awesome video. Just wondering if 3M silicon paste would be ok to use on the shaft going in the transmission? Thanks
Yes, absolutely. It's the same as di-electric grease.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks
You bet!
Your video is great! thank you! What brand do you use- OEM Toyota or aftermarket? Could you recommend? Thank you!
Thanks! Never had a problem using the Cardone brand CV axles. Good price and consistant quality.
Great video. Did you align the shaft and adjust the motor mounts after measuring? I have not seen much in here about that? Otherwise this was helpful.
Thanks but no alignment necessary on Toyota's