DON'T Make These Common Oil Change Mistakes With Your Car!!
2024 ж. 7 Мам.
430 168 Рет қаралды
If you think you know everything about changing the oil in your car or truck, think again!
In this video you'll learn 9 of the most common mistakes people make when changing their motor oil.
Each tip could save you time and money so make sure to watch until the end!
Some of the tools we used in this video:
Vehicle Ramps: amzn.to/3RPbsOP
Oil funnel: amzn.to/48oMKMw
Oil Drain Pan: amzn.to/48MpcRy
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Your points were fine & correct except for one. Overfilling the crankcase will not cause high oil pressure. Crankcase pressure may climb a bit but a proper working PCV system will compensate. Biggest problem would be the crankshaft will slap the oil causing aeration. Then oil can't lube engine properly.
He's saying overfilling oil can damage different things in the engine, which has happened to people (both those who did it themselves and didn't know or brought it to a place that was worthless).
Having done over 500 oil changes in my life, I can tell you that all that really matters, is actually doing an oil change and then doing it at least once a year or every 5000 miles. Thats it! You Don't need to warm up the oil, you drain it for 30 minutes and you are good. It it makes you feel good to pour some oil into the filter, go ahead! I am all about feeling good! It's really not necessary at all, but it feels good, so go ahead! Don't waste money on flushes. Better, start changing your oil twice a year, every six months. I do mine in the spring, then six months later. Keep it simple. Remember, fresh oil is all that matters. Expensive oil gets dirty and toxic the same as cheap oil. Change it often.
Interesting he is using Walmart Supertech oil and the new Fram Endurance oil filter. That pre filling the filter is A real flashpoint with some auto techs.
An excellent diagnostic mechanic over hear tells us that it's just as good to use cheaper oil rather than the real expensive stuff but change it more regularly and the engine will be much better for it. He travels thousands of Mile's a year in his work van and his engine is as good as new. 🇬🇧
Couldn’t agree more!
Oils are not created equal and 1 year on any oil is too long
You have done 500 oil changes.. two oil changes per year.. which means that you spent 250 years doing oil changes 😂
You may overlooked this step which is to wipe clean the filter mating surface on the motor block. Just in case some dirt or debris gets up there since most of us do our oil changes are done out of doors.
Yes, and by all means, DON'T use a Fram filter on ANYTHING> They are the worst you can buy.
Yes that is a very good point mate, also making sure that the old oil filter oring seal isn't still stuck to the bottom of it. I've seen this happen a few times as well and makes quite a lovely mess along the road and engine bay because it hasn't sealed properly. It's always smart to wipe it regardless to ensure it's mating surface is clean and free of foreign debris. You're spot on.👌
You forgot to include the fact that one should use the motor oil viscosity & type specified in the Owner’s Manual. Thanks for your video, dude!
It's printed on your oil cap for convenience
@@HarveyWallbanger-ho2cqthere are usually alternative oils recommended in the manual if you live in extreme cold environments. As an example, Fords will present a viscosity table showing 5w30 for normal weather and then 0W30 if you live in an extreme cold environment with the 0W30 shown as applicable for normal weather too.
@@HarveyWallbanger-ho2cq In America maybe, not in the EU, on all oil caps I only have the symbol of the oil can, no other text.
manufacturer can be wrong. best to verify it yourself, to get the most efficient oil viscosity.
Yes, the manufacturer only wants your vehicle to exceed the warranty mileage!! They would love to sell you a new engine at your expense.
Good points. I always warm my car up to operating temperature; then by the time I jack it up and get it on stands, the engine and its oil's cooled off enough to handle without getting burned. Because my oil pan does not use a crush washer, I use a torque wrench to tighten the drain plug to specifications. Also. I do use a cap-style wrench to install the new filter, but only because the filter is mounted at an angle; in changing filters, my fingers get so much oil on them that I need the wrench just to grip the new filter and get it hand-tight.
Interesting conversation. The key to what you said was "The vehicle was a European import and the oil used did not meet manufacturer specifications." I sometimes check those ratings on the back of the oil (api, sp,sn plus, sm, ilsac gf_6a, etc) that most folks ignore. I'm sure there are exceptions especially in newer European models as oil is getting thinner and thinner now. In my 40 plus years of changing oil I've never seen a ruined engine due to improper oil. My older Mercedes runs on pretty much anything. Again, one must stick with the proper manufacturer's viscosity recommendations. I just use any good brand of oil or filter that's on sale and do it every 5K miles.
Yes, always warm up the oil first
Heat the engine up before draining the oil. This suspends any contaminants in the oil.
Ding ding ding....thats what I learned from Lake Speed Jr.
Thanks for the good instruction. I have more confidence now.
Yep done mine exactly field my oil cape running smoothly now. Chaned all my oil's.thank you for sharing 👍🏼 love my Toyota Celica 1995 🚗.
One major issue that was never mentioned was removing the oil filler cap beforehand. Doing this lets atmospheric pressure aid in draining the old fluid without creating suction. I learned this in trade school 40 years ago. The theory is obvious, yet no one ever mentions it. Try it yourself, the difference in drain flow is dramatic with a more efficient and complete drainage.
So i used to do that. Create a faster flow. But over many years I stopped doing that after going through alot of kitty litter due to oil coming out of the drain hole like it's niagra falls. That's just me, friend. I leave the filler cap and oil checking thing closed and it works for me. Now if I worked for a mechanic shop where time is money sure I could do that.
Regardless if your oil filter mounts sideways or any other direction where completely pre-filling the filter is not feasible, at the very least, pour oil in the filter to saturate the filter medium, it's amazing how much oil is required to do this and when installed, the pleats are saturated and saves precious time for the oil to flow where it's needed and cuts down on "dry-startup" time.
ALWAYS love your videos. Thanks buddy, good to see you again!
Rajah!
Tip for using Havoline boxed motor oil, the bag inside uses a standard gallon jug thread, and they sell an adapter with a shut off and a thick clear hose to pour in the engine spill free. Since there's six quarts, I keep a clean empty oil bottle to drain off 1 qt. so don't overfill if it takes 5 qts. and keep the extra in trunk to top off when checking oil.
Whoa awesome!
The oil filter only gets tighter with time & temperature cycling. If you hand tighten it like crazy your hand won't be able to remove it later. The rubber gasket makes the seal. Don't over tighten it.
Got it thanks
I've seen semi truck oil filters loosen and come off from not being tight enough. 1/8 turn is more than enough. Use filters with hexagon texture or a chain wrench to get them off if too tight. Never had an issue with an 1/8th turn being too tight.
Good video. Did you know in modern engines, 10-20% of old oil remains in an engine. I would agree to a point about warming the engine oil if you live in very cold climate. At normal ambient temps, it will not improve oil removal. Draining the oil after sitting for several hours achieves a better drain. I have been able to remove another 1/3-to1/2qt by letting sit. Also removing the filter first allows the oil to drain from the engine better. I park my car on ramps overnight, remove the filter, then drain first thing in the morning. I also recommend clear flood crank to refill and pressureized the engine before starting. I lived in Hawaii for 4 years, miss the weather and surf.
Good tips!
The overnightdrain is a recipe for disaster on certain engines, ie the 4 cylinder 2.2 and 5 cylinder 3.2 Ford Duratorque or Puma diesel engines have a variable flow oil pump, if the oil is not changed and refilled in a roughly 10 minute period the pump drains and is unable to pickup oil on restart, resultt, no oil pressure and severely damaged internals !
@rossawood5075 it's a poor design if it can't prime itself with a full wet sump.
I used to change my oil when it was warm.. NOW I do the same thing.. I let it set overnight up on ramps.. It seems to work best and the oil filter is easier to get off.. THAT IS A BIG PLUS...😅
That sounds good for a car that holds 4 to 5 quarts of oil. My Peterbilt holds 11 1/2 gallons. Drain it cold and you will sit for a bit. Our older trucks with Series 60 Detroit Diesel engines have Lucas Heavy Duty Engine Oil Stabilizer in the oil, 2 gallons per truck and the run 15W-40. Try to drain them cold and you will be sitting for a good while waiting to drain. We don't use Lucas on the newer 10W-30 trucks because they have tighter tolerances and our manuals say not to use anything that might make the oil thicker.
Simple but important guidelines..well presented, all useful. Also your "delivery" is great..like your positivity. Keep it up!
Thank you! Will do!
Reminds me of Antenna Man. Straight, to the point, never uses the words like or um...
The “filling your oil filter before installing it” thing is a hotly debated idea on the internet. Of course, there is this guy’s view that it’s necessary. There are others that point out that if you do this, you must be METICULOUS about not allowing the smallest particle to get into the oil before screwing it back in place. If there is even the tiniest speck of dust or dirt, it will immediately circulate through the engine (as it will be post-oil filter) and modern cars with variable valve timing do NOT like that!
I always check the service manual. There are some rare large pieces of equipment that require a prefilled oil filter. It's really rare. The filters will come with a plug for the center hole and a funnel for the side holes. Oil flows from the side holes through the filter into the center then out through the center into the engine. Some really large trucking companies buy enough semi trucks that they have the manufacturer, not a dealership but technicians that work for the manufacturer to come on site for warranty repairs and large delivery inspections. If they see a company tech prefilling an oil filter on an application not called for it, they get the VIN number off the truck and void the engine warranty. They will go through the company maintenance logs (Federal law requires motor carriers to keep maintenance records showing when service is performed and by who) and every vehicle that tech worked on will be suspect and scrutinized when coming in for warranty work. Best not to risk it with expensive vehicles, follow manufacturer procedures and laid out in the service manual to a T. New semi truck engine is $40k, best not risk the warranty. That's also why many large companies pay a nationwide show like Speedco to do PM service. The cost of them doing it is a cheap insurance plan. If they screw up their insurance will replace the engine.
The 5 cylinder 3.2 Ford Duratorque diesel engine benefits timewise from replacing oil filter first , adding oil to the filter container first then draining oil, as there is only a 10 minute period to replace oil after draining due to it being fitted with a variable flow oil pump that drains and won't pick up the replenished oil once it drains.
@charlesbolin7207 some procedures and protocols are put in place to limit human error. This sounds more like one of those quality control situations rather than tainted products. A small piece of foil from the bottle, for example, doesn't have a chance to get in the internals if there is a blanket policy in place.
@@Fuse_146 There is more to it than that. Keep in mind when I dump a gallon of oil into a semi truck it goes straight into the oil pan because that's where the filler tube goes. If I dump a quart of oil into a car, the filler is usually on top of the engine right where the valve train is. Diesel engines are really sensitive to contamination because oil flows through the diesel fuel injectors. Get the oil pathways plugged on a diesel engine and you can do serious damage real fast.
I've been changing oil for over 40 years and I never developed the habit of prefilling the filter before changing it. The technique sounds good on paper, but I never had any issues with this extra step. There is a layer of lubricant on the cylinders and pistons after draining the oil so not sure if this is really crucial or not.
On point with filling the new oil filter with new clean oil before installation .... its about oil pressure, great info
I always do all that. I'm almost 67 & I've never once had anyone change the oil in any of the cars I've owned 😅. And I do use that Wal-Mart oil, with Wix filters, every 3k miles.
Walmart 🤮
Me to, that oil is as good as the fancy labeled stuff
Make sure the car is supported well. If you are crushed under it oil is the least of your worries.
I agree. If you jack it, use both the jack and jack stands to support it. Best to have a backup just.in case the little 10 cent O ring in your jack.fails.or.if a jack stand tips. Also regardless if you use ramps or a.jack, chuck the rear wheels so it.doesnt.roll back or forward
@@louofm1 I use neither. I just barely have enough room to change the oil in my SUV and my truck without ramps or a jack. Safer, too.
I drive over a curb on my street just enough clearance and no crushing lol.
@@luvpants2012 I've done this before. Not a bad idea. Still remember nto chuck those wheel in back
@@louofm1 good idea thanks, I always engage parking brake too
Over filling with oil can encourage the crankshaft big end journals to slap the oil creating an aerated mix which lowers the oil pressure and destroys the bearings.
this is so cool! i change my oil and i didn't know all these safe steps thank you so much! now i'm excited to change it again and do it properly🎉
Have fun out there!
Been changing my own oil since 1970. I always change it when I return home from a trip. Just buy yourself a good pair of rubber gloves and I always use ramps. I see so many videos with people using a jack and jackstands. Ramps are so much easier and safer. And I always prefill my oil filter. There is a reason oil filters have an anti drainback valve. So your car does not get a dry start. If your oil filter is horizonal on the engine, the first thing you do is fill the new oil filter and let it sit while you drain the old oil and remove the old oil filter. By that time the oil will have migrated from the center of the new oil filter to the space between the filter media and the outside wall of the filter. You can now install it without a spill. If your car holds less than five quarts, just add a little at a time and just keep holding the jug level and look at the on bottle gauge untill you have added the required amount.
After filling the filter with oil and letting it sit, do you have to add any more oil once the oil has moved to the outside wall when installing?
Regarding tightening your oil filter, most filters used to say on there “tighten three-quarter turn after making contact“. I haven’t seen that on a filter in a long time
Great video. All you say makes good sense. Tighten the oil filter until the gasket touches the block. Then, tighten 3/4 to 1 turn to complete installation. This worked for me when i used to change the oil in my vehicle.
Great tip!
@@BudgetMechanicHawaiiit is said not to use an oil filter tool to PUT ON the filter. But because I have arthritis in my hands, hand-tightening the filter doesn’t do me any good. Use the tool to tighten the filter 3/4 to 1 turn after the gasket has made contact with the engine block.
@carlovanrijk4039 Whether you use your hand or a tool, as long as you don't overtighten the filter, is what is crucial.
@@waynepile5084 I totally agree!
I drive semi trucks for a living and I'm one of the company mechanics. I do all the PM services on our Peterbilt 579s. They are equipped with EPA 17 Paccar MX-13 engines. Modern vehicles have really tight tolerances, screwing up an oil change can cost you your warranty. That being said the most minor of things on a Preventative Maintenance Service (oil change) can cost you a lot of money so here are some real tips from a real mechanic that might cost you more money in the short run but save you a lot in the long run. 1. NEVER PRE FILL THE OIL FILTER UNLESS THE SERVICE MANUAL SPECIFICALLY CALLS FOR IT. This is really bad because the oil you pour in the center of the filter has not passed through the filter and while brand new oil should be clean, sometimes it can be contaminated with microscopic impunities from the refinery and while it may not instantly destroy your engine, over multiple oil changes it will have a cumulative effect slowly reducing the life of your engine. Engines that require a prefilled oil filter are typically found on heavy equipment, hold at least a quart of oil in the filter itself and the filter will come with a plug for the center hole as well as a spout to fill it from the side holes so the oil is filtered. 2. All oil is not the same, different brands have different additives and some additives may not be compatible with the seals in your engine. A specific brand is not important. What is important is checking the bottle you are buying and making sure it matches the manufacturer specification listed in your owners manual. Some companies have actual specification numbers, others go buy API numbers and some use ASTM. Don't always go by your manual, call your local dealership because sometimes after a vehicle has been out for a while the engine manufacturer may change oil standards if a problem becomes apparent with the oil they recommended, they will change oil recommendations and publish a "Technical Service Bulletin". IMPORTANT: DO NOT MIX OIL BRANDS OR MIX BASE OIL WITH SYNTHETIC. Different oil brands put different additives in their oil. Two different oil brands made to the same standard can have incompatible additives and cause engine damage when mixed. Synthetic oil blends usually have additives in them to prevent the base oil from foaming or gelling whine mixed around in the engine. If you buy a quart of synthetic oil and dump it in a vehicle filled with base oil, it won't have the additives prevent foaming or gelling. Finally some synthetic oils are made from ester oils and they can cause incompatible seals in older engines to swell or break down. 3. Not all oil filters are the same. Just because a filter is the right size and has the right thread doesn't mean it's the right filter. Some filters have bypass valves needed in high performance applications where oil pressure has to rise sharply during hard acceleration or when taking off under heavy load. Other applications prohibit a bypass valve. Different filters have different flow rates and micron ratings. When picking the right filter you want to check your owners manual AND verify with your dealership that the engine manufacturer has not published any technical service bulletins changing the filter specification. Make sure the oil filter you use has a date of manufacture on it also known as a born on date. DO NOT BUY FILTERS ONLINE. Several truck operators ordered Fleetguard filters on online marketplaces that turned out to be counterfeit. Using a knock off filter voids the engine warranty if damage occurs due to improper filtration. Always buy your filters from a reputable name brand store or a dealership, never from a seller in an online marketplace. 4. When installing the new filter, make sure the rubber gasket from the old filter came off with the old filter. If the rubber gasket from the old filter is stuck to the filter housing and you put on the new filter, the gasket from the new filter will not seal right and it will leak. When you've insured the surface the oil filter seal will make contact with is clean, lube the oil filter seal by rubbing a drop of oil over it with your finger, screw it in until it makes contact then tighten it about 1/8 turn. You don't want it over tightened but you also don't want it to come loose, leak or fall off. IMPORTANT IF YOU LIVE IN CALIFORNIA: Puncture the side of the oil filter with a screwdriver while holding it over the container you drained your oil into to drain the filter. In California oil filters that have not been crushed or drained are considered "Hazardous Waste" and must be disposed of properly. Companies like Walmart and O'Reilly's Auto Parts simply take all oil filters for disposal and eat the extra cost. Smart auto shops know disposing of a drum of drained oil filters is around $70, disposing a drum of undrained filters is more around $300, at least that's what it was when I was working for a disposal company. 5. When you go to put your oil plug back in change the rubber gasket or washer on it, this should always be changed. Some high end vehicles don't use a replaceable gasket and instead recommend replacing the plug. Check the vehicle service manual or call your dealership if you're unsure. Quick drain plugs like the ones Paccar uses twist and lock into place without much effort and you will know they are secure without any torquing. If it's a bolt style plug check your owners manual for the proper torquing force and use a torque wrench. Losing an oil plug while going down the road will cost you thousands more than a $70 torque wrench don't risk it. 6. Double check your oil capacity, viscosity and manufacturer specification before filling. Fill it to half capacity, then stop, look under your vehicle and check the drain plug for leaks. Then fill until your 1 quart less than full, check your dipstick, if it's less than full slowly add oil and check until full. Then start the vehicle and let it idle for one full minute while checking the filter for leaks. After a minute stop the engine, wait 5 minutes, check the oil again and top off as needed. 7. Underneath most vehicles on various joints on the suspension, steering column, drag link, pitman arm, tie rod ends, axel, kingpins, transmission bell housing, U joints, drive shaft or other locations varying based upon your vehicle make, suspension, steering system and power train configuration are these little nipples called a "grease zerk". They are for attaching a grease gun and lubricating various joints and fittings. Make sure you check the service manual and grease every single one. Their location and grease specification usually is NOT in the owners manual or maintenance log. Dealerships, Auto shops and lube shops as well as Walmart usually grease all of these every time you get an oil change. They have computer software that tells them which ones need grease at what mileage and what grease to use. Failure to grease these zeks regularly (usually every oil change) will result in premature failure of the joint, ball socket, bearing or other moving part the grease is meant to lubricate resulting in a tow and costly repairs. All greases are not the same and they are not all compatible with each other. Do not use calcium sulfonate grease on applications that do not call for it as it can form a corrosive compound when mixed with some lithium grease even if it's just residue. I can not stress how important using the proper type and amount of grease is. I've seen dust boots destroyed by too much grease, I've seen control arms and tie rod ends pop off their sockets sending vehicles out of control from not being greased and I've seen cross shafts and throw out bearings destroyed on semi truck transmissions from using the wrong grease. To summarize if you have read this whole lecture, when you pay a shop to change your oil, you are paying for their expertise, insurance and warranty. You are paying them $40 to $120 so that if something is missed or an incompatible filter or oil is used or grease zerks are not greased or an oil plug falls out, their insurance is paying for the thousands of dollars to fix your car. Remember if you bring a new car into a dealership with internal engine damage, the first thing they are going to do is loosen the oil drain plug and get a sample of the oil to send for testing. The next thing they are going to do is check your oil filter. Wrong oil or wrong filter means the damage won't be covered by warranty. In closing I'd like to say an oil change is never as simple as it sounds and if you don't know what your vehicle specifically calls for at every oil change or PM Service, don't do it yourself. Doing your own oil change might save you a few dollars but a small mistake can cost you thousands in repairs on a vehicle you are still paying for. Paying a shop a few extra bucks can save you thousands. Oh and one more thing, Do not buy cheap oil or store brand oil. Lookup the Dollar General Motor Oil class action lawsuit to know why. Buying cheap oil is the FASTEST AND DUMBEST WAY TO MAKE SAVING A FEW DOLLARS COST YOU THOUSANDS in my opinion.
All very good points. Recently, I started to do all of the oil changes on my 2 vehicles. My # 1 motivating factor is the complete lack of work ethics and morals that are far too common and widespread these days. I've had my oil changed at a reputable, reliable shop for years....until they weren't anymore. Double gasketed filter, no new crush washer, etc. I'm sure you're aware of the horror stories (oil change without changing the filter, not actually changing the oil, filling it with who knows what kind of oil, etc.) Most shops are set up intentionally so that the customer cannot see the work (supposedly) being performed. No thanks...I'll learn what I need to learn and do it myself. I trust no one with my vehicles anymore.
@@joemarchand8313 I just changed the oil in my 1998 Mustang GT. I just bought it. After going through CarFAX (thank you progressive for free CarFAX Car Care with my policy) I saw the maintenance records. I won't say the shop who's sticker was on the windshield indicating who did the last oil change but they definitely put the wrong oil filter on it. I ran the part number through the filter manufacturers web site and it showed this filter was definitely not recommended for this car because no anti drain valve or bypass valve and the filter was not the right flow or capacity. It was half the size of the Motorcraft I put on it. The filter manufacturer does make a filter for this car but it definitely wasn't the one on it. The previous owner also put on nice rims with racing tires, his dumbass didn't check the steer tires before rotating them, they are directional so I have to fix that too. Despite all of this I will still pay a shop to do oil and fluid changes and differential services for the same reason large trucking companies outsource it. If I screw up then I have to replace the engine. If they screw up I file a claim with their insurance.
Oil standards are printed on all motor oil containers regardless of the cost of the oil.
@@justsmitty1709 the API standards are, the vehicle manufacturer specifications are not always printed on the bottle. Try finding Ford WSS-M2C153-G printed on an oil bottle. Just because an oil meets the API standards for motor oil doesn't mean it has the additives recommended by the manufacturer.
@charlesbolin7207 That is correct. I am assuming one would know what oil type they needed. Love your example of oil ....... Are you a Ford tech?
I agree, changing when oil is warm is ideal, but doing it when it's cold is not exactly a "mistake". In my classic, I change it cold before first start up in spring after it's been sitting for 5 months. It's already on the lift so why would I bring it down off the lift, start it up totally dry, only to send contaminated oil through the drive train and then lift it up again to drain it warm??? It works for me
Good thing in US you guys have programs for oil disposal. In Russia, you can sell for a cheap price or just give your used oil to someone who uses it for their oil stoves in winter. The situation is much more difficult with coolants: there isn't just any place that will recieve your used coolant, which is terrible. I feel bad about it, but I've already left it at an ordinary dump, and will have to do it again when the time comes to change my coolant.
You hit the nail on the head with over tightening the oil pan bolt. I have stripped enough bolts in my time and you’re exactly right-the bolt doesn’t hold anything together. Once you turn the bolt once or twice, the oil stops coming out.
Yep, I'd rather do it loose and waste a little oil, then know to do more, than risk ruining a critical part of my car.
Great list, and I agree with every recommendation. I would add 2 more: Ensure that the old oil filter gasket and oil drain gaskets have not stuck to the engine; and a major one you did not mention is choosing an oil that is not appropriate for that engine. Avoid viscosities that are not specifically recommended in the owners manual, and by all means, avoid the non-detergent oils sold at many gas stations. The Walmart (Supertech) brand seen in this video is a good choice.
I wouldn't use Super Tech, personal preference. I have two personal one requiring synthetic the other can use either. They both get Castrol Edge. The semi truck I drive has a Paccar 2018 MX-13, it gets Chevron Delo 10W-30 full synthetic. You get what you pay for when it comes to oil. It's the one part of vehicle maintenance where saving a few bucks can cost thousands.
@@charlesbolin7207 my engine sounded terrible on super tech.
@@charlesbolin7207I use car's branded oil (in my case Toyota).. Much cheaper and it is used in their service centres on all cars.. (I believe)..
@@NoName-is6py I don't, Toyota, Mopar, Motorcraft, ECT..... None of those companies are oil companies. They are vehicle manufacturers, they do not get the best stuff, in fact none of them even make their own engines or transmissions. They are subcontracted and assembled by a number of different companies. Car dealers want you to change cars every 3 to 5 years. I'll stick with Castrol (BP) or Valvoline or Chevron or Shell Rotella. These are all Oil companies, that's their specialty, most of their main business is lubricants and they make the oil for Ford, gm, Chrysler, Toyota, BMW ECT.... The only difference is the label on the bottle and additives inside.
For the last 25 years, ive always used either Mobil 1 or Valvoline synthetic and a quality filter. However, according to some recent oil lab testing by project farm and other professionals, it was proven that this super tech synthetic is very good oil, and even better than both Mobil 1 and Valvoline synthetic. About the only oil that is better than super tech, in the same price range is Pennzoil ultra platinum. It.will cost you about $8 more for 5 qts, which is not bad. In the last two changes I did for my and wife's car, I used super tech full synthetic
If you drain the oil on a cold engine then put a dry filter on there, when you start it you can feel it grinding itself. I did that once, never ever again. If it's been running and warm everything has a fresh oil film. I don't care what the "pros" say, I'm filling that filter. It certainly can't hurt. Pros don't do it because it takes time and they don't care about your car. You do. Fill your filter.
Same here, but I love the arguments it creates ;)
It absolutely helps to prefill the filter. Faster oil pressure
Great Video, well done and thanks for sharing !!!
Well done everything you said spot on !!
Thanks 🤙🏽
I’m all Oiled Up! Great Information
When my two sons were young I was working 50+ hours a week, travelling etc. so I did not get to spend as much quality time with them as I would have liked. One thing I taught them both was how to do a proper oil change. They are 30 now drive older Hondas and Toyotas and do all of their own routine maintenance--using most of the info shared here. Thanks GREAT video!😎
Brilliant show great advice thank you very much from Sydney Australia 😮😅😊😊
I would say he's right about everything except pre-filling your filter. There's not one owner's manual out there that will tell you to do this. I've been changing oil for decades and I've never prefilled a filter and I've never had a problem. Driven Rigs up to 250,000 miles without ever prefilling a filter. It's completely unnecessary and makes it harder to know how much oil to put in the vehicle since the owner's manual calls for oil capacity with and without filter. And the fact that some filters go on completely upside down should be a clue that you don't need to prefill your filter. This is a misnomer and hogwash. Your engine can easily withstand the seconds that it takes to fill the filter. In fact it only takes about 1 second for the pump to fill the filter on modern vehicles.
I see that SUPER TECH OIL 💪🏿
I have a Tacoma also. V6 4 ltr. My oil filter is under the hood and upside down. And another thought. If you add too much oil there is a concern if it is high enough to be contacted by the crankshaft or piston rods. It'd have to he quite high to do that. The small change is level, I would think, would not impact oil pressure much. Considering 1 foot of liquid only imparts 0.43 psi. So a small level increase in oil should not raise pressure much. Great tips. Great video.
But with to much oil in the engine it will get air rated which is not good for the engine.
so what is the issue with the top mounted oil filter?
There is no issue. This guy says you have to fill your new oil filter with oil before installing it. I am pointing out that sometimes that is impossible@@yarpos
With Full Syn changing oil frequently there is no need to warm up the car 32F or warmer. The oil will flow quite well. The difference between draining 96% versus 98% of the oil is unimportant. It will be like driving 100-200 miles. After the first one or two oil changes, it will be possible to add carefully measured amount of oil. The purpose of running the car after adding back oil is to check for leak, not to check oil level. Oil level is quite accurately decided by the measured amount you put in. If there is no leak, the oil level will be good for a few hundred miles, even if not at the highest level. I don't check for leak before if the next trip is short. I check after the short trip. There will be no way to leak more than half a quart in 10 miles, except for gross negligence. Putting oil in the filter is not necessarily good. A heavy oil filter could lead to bumping in the wrong surface, contaminating. If the car has not been parked for more than 24 hours, there will be enough oil clinging to the wall and valve train for a gasoline car with a small filter.
Great video, thanks.
good refresher
Thanks for the tips!
No problem!
Had a 18R I think that a oil filter gasket stuck to the block, then somehow PO got the new one on. With the engine on the ground it took us many hours to finally get the filter base off. It was all thing that was left at this point.
I always fill (partially fill) my filter. I learned the hard way. After an oil change my oil light came on. Level was perfect. Long story short, an air lock had been created. I filled the filter from then on, never happened again.
Use a torque wrench and tighten sump bolt to manufactories specification, same for sum oil filters.
Very good video. Thanks
thank you I was wondering about that
I warm up the cars to suspend the particles and contaminants in the oil, and a fast drain.. but our '18 Chevy Impala (3.6L) has the oil filter very close to the exhaust and it's a bit difficult to reach. That pipe gets hotter than the surface of the sun in just a couple minutes of running, you can probably imagine what it does to your skin trying to remove that filter when you bump into it (everytime no matter how careful)...
I won't change the oil in any of my vehicles if I don't have the time to let the old oil drip out of the engine for at least 30 minutes. Needless to say, I've never used any of the "10 minute" oil change places.
That’s only one reason to avoid those places…
we love jiffy lube
@@robertswift6101 Good luck.
They stripped the drain plug on my daughters Ford Fusion, and of course didn't say anything..@@BudgetMechanicHawaii
Nobody needs to wait 30 minutes to wait 30 minutes to drain the oil
Many times after draining the old oil, I would pour some of the new oil in with the drain plug still removed just to get the last of the old oil out.
Thank you for posting this very useful video. You point out a lot of small but important things that DIYers like myself tend to overlook when doing oil changes. One question... how often do you recommend changing the oil drain plug? (if at all)
Most general passenger non performance cars should never need to replace the oil drain plug. Just replace the copper or aluminum washer every time and you should be good.
G'day, Thanks for having No annoying back ground music, Fantastic stuff, Cheers..
I would like to know how you can pre-fill your oil filter if it is an upside down cartridge filter. I just fill to fill line, start then stop the engine and top up.
right. but promise it makes no difference pre filling the filters
Clear flood mode.
fill it up, leave it sit for one minute , all the oil soaks into the filter material, install it in any orientation and nothing leaks out. I do it all the time on a V6 Toyota.
with a turbo you better fill filter if possible turbos destroy easy never go more than 8000 mi on any eng oil.. 5000 to 8000 thousand on any oil and proper oil..65 years as mechanic with noooo oil problems!!!!!
A new drain pan bolt washer is critical to being able to not have to over torque the bolt.
Another thing I like to do is purchase oil drain plugs with a magnet. Nice to wipe off any fine metal particles that may end up in your used oil
I do my own.have since 1995 20 years old. Its fun! I do recommend using an oil with esters in it or hi PAO pack. Redline has the most esters. Am soil signature series.those are the two authentic true synthetic oils commercially available. Mobil one is not a true synthetic anymore.Exxon's way of saving money. But it is a PAO oil.cleans slot getter with old carbon baked on piston rings,ect. Mobil Extent d performance advertises back bottle,removes sludge.the other Mobil synthetics only s all with carbon from current oil change,not the old stuff. When I was a kid early 80s. dad was mowing lawn. some guy pulled over our corner,and poured used more tor oil in the sewer drain. My dad went to him, dunno what he said...but the guy didn't wanna make eye contact. Our sewer drains,aka storm drains go directly out the ocean.not sewage treatment plant. I like too use stop or AC Delco intake cleaner before draining old oil. Then rest 30 minutes and refill with cheapest oil I can find. As s black flush. Run it idle 20-25 minutes,30: minutes cool down.drain it,refill oil I wanna use n good filter.I like going local recycling plant.. Pour it into the oil buffalo.
After you remove the drain plug and oil starts to drain , remove the filler cap up top so that the oil will drain more quickly and effectively
I started car DIY in 1966. Fortunately I learned to do it properly then. Never had an engine issue from changing oil incorrectly. (as opposed to blowing one up due to gross abuse)
Very helpful. Thanks
Good Job. The only point i would emphasize that you touched on is check to make sure the old seal came off with the old filter. if you install a new filter on the old seal it WILL blowout - ask me how i know..
Thank you very useful
Thank you for the good tips. Every time I take the old oil to my local auto store ,they give me that nasty look,
Never had that problem. All the stores in my area are happy to accept it back. The stores actually make money on this as when you are there to drop off your used oil and fluids, you will probably be buying stuff you need since you are there, like oil, filters, wiper blades, etc.
Garage 54 did a test on overfilling. It took a RIDICULOUS amount of overfill to cause problems. At least on the engine they had. (plastic viewing window and clear plastic oil pan they made.)
There's nothing wrong with priming the filter, but it's not really needed. Moreover, you really don't need to worry about a dry start after changing an oil filter unless the car has been sitting a long time; there will be enough oil left coating the internals for that brief period of time before oil is recirculated. I have a Toyota Tacoma with 324,000 miles on her and never once primed the filter!
Hi, I can never seem to be able to remove the plug drain or the oil fitter easily. I wonder if using a little impact wrench to REMOVE NOT TO tight the plug drain will be an option?
Aftermarket FRANZ toilet paper filter will catch particulate matter down to 1 micron (at about 1 qt/minute filter rate). Regular filters catch at around 10 microns because of engine lubrication requirements. The FRANZ doesn't replace but supplements in junction with regular filter. Oil stays cleaner longer. Add an additional oil cooler after radiator and you'll have a much happier engine.
Thank you for the good pointers. One question I would like to ask is should the car/truck be hoisted up level to ensure all the old oil being drained out completely or would it has the same result with having the car/truck front wheels driving onto the ramps (as in your case) for accessibility. Thank you for your clarification
oil filter in some,you can't fill with oil because of different mountings.. Just use Flood mode!!!
4:20 too much oil results in the crank churning air into the oil, which causes low oil pressure and lack of lubrication going to the top end
Super Tech/Kirkland Signature oil, and $5 Toyota oil filter from the stealership 💪🏼
I would submit that a #1 mistake many make when changing oil is draining the oil before removing the oil filter. If this is done and the filter cannot be removed, you'll need to refill the engine with oil to be able to drive it to purchase the proper tool for oil filter removal. Added Bonus: I also remove the oil filler cap before draining the oil. This seems to allow air to be drawn into the engine as the oil drains, increasing the oil speed and, hence, more complete drainage. Bonus #2: Start the drainage then have lunch. Over time more oil will drain.
That's a good reason to follow his "hand tight" advice for installing the oil filter.
Taking off the oil filter before draing the oil could be a flood of oil coming out!
The manual on my Hyundai advises checking the oil level when the oil is hot, and on level ground. So I don't quite fill up to the mark, allow the engine to warm up, then allow it to stand for at least five minutes so all the oil drips back into the sump. Then do a final top-up to the mark. Because it's a diesel, the new oil quickly turns black and is easier to read on the dipstick. Also, pull the dipstick out, wipe the oil off, then push it back in and out to get the correct level
Great Job, ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
I park the car on a down slope to change oil. That together with the ramps make it level.
all correct!
I'd love to fill my filter before putting it on, but you will have to explain to me how I won't lose all that oil as my filter screws on sideways.
You can't.
Lay the vehicle on its side!
Best to remove filter first , to relieve pressure . To have less mess as oil flow seems to be even , steady and not splatter . And I always go for a extended drive 30 minutes or more , before changing . And always use an engine flush , Amsoil or Liqui-Moly and even BG EPR . One that won't damage seals , etc as I expect a solvent based one would , over time . I changed to a magnetic drain plug . And considering the magnets that attach around the oil filter . And though some have continued to reuse the metal drain plug gasket . I always use a new one and most definitely if it is fiber , always a new one . As I could see the fiber cracking at sometime . Hand threading the drain plug until it can't go anymore . Than use the smallest rachet with short extension and 6 point socket for a few turns . And I completely remove the oil filter cap and even dipstick , to allow air to enter . I take a full hour to let as much oil drain out .
You can also loosen the oil cap to relieve pressure or pull the dipstick out part way. I recommend pulling the dipstick out partway, pros use it as an indicator that oil is not in the engine.
@@charlesbolin7207 Ok , I fully remove the dipstick and oil filler cap and put on the tool bench .
@@peterrudy9207 I'd just loosen the filler cap. The full opening is pretty big and the last thing you want is dust, debris and other contaminants in your valve train.
Relieve pressure? You don’t know much about
There is no pressure.
I guess there are a few different ways of thinking about draining the oil, warm vs. cold. I would agree the cold oil will drain out very slowly. But on the other hand, most all the oil that is suspended throughout the engine will have time to drain back down into the pan if you drain the oil cold. But, like you say, you will have to be very patient and let the oil take its time draining.
I have learnt something new.
There is no need to pre-fill the filter. If that were the case all the cars with side mount filter would be toast
Of course its Not. If you don‘t drive your car over the weekend or for like 2-3 days the Filter is also nearly dry. Imagine always prefilling the Filter after Not driving for a longer duration. 😅
0w 20 oil pisses out cold.
For the DIY folks installing a Fumoto style valve makes it also a lot easier and cleaner
Agree with all except filling the oil filter with oil. No need as sufficient lubrication remains in the engine. I would add: replace the crush washer if service manual so states; torque the oil pan bolt to required specifications and change the oil as per the manufacturer instructions.
very good, l always pre fill my oil filter with 300 M.L of oil, another important point is , make sure the oil grade is correct for your car.
Is the oil filter better with more holes or with fewer holes?
Good job ❤😂
Thanks
You Are Good, Man & I've did exactly as you said,on how to change your oil.& Only one thing I didn't do is fill the oil filter before installing the filter, so from now on I'll put oil in my New filter, thanks a bunch!!😅
I drain my oil with a cold engine. Reason being the drain plug is right next to the catalyst converter as well as the turbocharger wastegate and both of these are EXTREMELY hot after the engine has been run and i hate burning my fingers on those!
Prefilling the filter can cause damage as oil is added on the 'clean' side of the filter. So if you are adding any dust or other impurities on the clean side while prefilling, then they are going directly into the engine - and are not stopped by the filter... Dont do it.
You mean the fresh oil from the bottle isn’t being filtered? Not a problem.
Yeah if you have to be concerned about dirty oil in the bottle, you need to switch brands.
I change the oil myself on our 3 vehicles, all at least 20 years old. I comply with 8 of your 9 points. However, my trusted internet experts all seem to agree that pre-filling your oil filter is NOT required. And indeed, pre-filling may cause another issue which is the false oil leak which happens when you slobber some oil around the mating surface when installing the pre-filled filter and later that looks tp you like the filter is leaking. This happens even if you're careful about wiping down your mess after installing the filter. I would rather install the filter empty and later if I happen to see oil around the filter then I know for sure it's a real leak and not just the remnants of my pre-filled oil mess dripping down.
Well done
I've drained oil for 40 years now and never prefilled my filters. Just a 30 second idle takes care of it!!
You can get the oil to circulate after an oil change by pulling out a fuel system fuse or relay then trying to start the engine for a few sec. The oil pump and the engine will turn very slowly, but the engine won't start. Then just put the fuse back in and you can start it up successfully. However, this should not be necessary for filling the oil filter because gravity fills it already anyway, especially with these modern thin synthetic oils. Lubing the gasket on the oil filter is also unnecessary if you use Toyota OEM filters as they are already lubricated.
Good info!
The oil filter is empty when its upside down on the truck too. 😂 Alot of 4.0 Tacomas running around with over 250,000 miles that have started like that for years.
Adding more oil to an engine than specified ? The 3 liter Nissan diesel as fitted to Patrol and Wayfarer 4WD's had a high failure rate when first introduced (to replace the super reliable 4.2 liter diesel) usually no 4 piston, Nissan's cure was to give owners a new dipstick with a higher marking for oil, about one liter, 2 pints if I remember correctly, this did reduce the failure rate while researching modifications to improve reliability. Some engines can accept a little more oil without causing a problem, also remember some engines can be supplied with long or shorter oil filters, the shorter filter is supposed to give faster rise of oil pressure on startup, however approximately 250 ml difference on some engines.
When the oil is trickle draining put in a small amount fresh oil into the engine, once it stops put the plug back in.
Unfortunately my filter is mounted horizontally on the side of the engine. I can't put oil in it when mounting the new one. It spills out.
lol you don’t need to pre-fill the oil filter. It’s not damaging anything on modern vehicles. Basically an old trope that people still say to do when you don’t need to do that. Modern cars have significantly better oil pumps, internal oil feeding, and better filters themselves.
@@wholeNwon yes definitely is. Theres enough oil remaining on the top end of the motor-heads that you’re not running the engine without oil in the milliseconds it takes to push the oil to the heads. There’s plenty of videos that go more in-depth about why pre-filling oil filters was done in the first place back in the day and why they don’t need to be pre-filled today on modern engines with modern oil.
In your view, what is considered a "modern" engine? 80's and up? 90's? 2000's? I'm not a subscriber to the "prefill your filter" method either.@@KendrasEdge757
Also several good video by smarter people than me that show (on a modern vehicle) that prefilling reduces gaps in oil pressure. So I guess decide for yourself.
@@BudgetMechanicHawaii well you can probably find a video to support any position one may hold. All the mechanics I know & have seen that have been doin this a lot longer than I have don’t prefill the filter. When you drain the oil you’re not draining all of the oil out. The top end and oil pump still have some oil. If you were draining the oil for a week than yeah that would probably be a good idea, or on heavy equipment or big diesel engines, high performance engines, but this will remain a discussion for many decades to come between those that do and those that don’t and everyone in between 😂
@@BudgetMechanicHawaiiI was watching your video to see if there was anything I was doing wrong when changing my engine oil. Happy to say that my methods pretty much mirror your correct ones! Kudos! 😃👍🏼
I want that Tacoma!! They are impossible to find. And if you can find one there a fortune!! I am thinking of buy magnetic oil drain plugs for all my cars. Your opinion?
how much oil do you think is in the pan if let sit over night?
I agree with your comments. I let mine drain about ten minutes, then pour about 1/3 quart of fresh oil into the engine, and let it drain out. It removes/flushes out several oz. of old dirty oil that accumulates in the engine. OK, a "waste" of new, fresh oil some would say, but I do it anyway. It is nice to see clean oil dripping out of the drain plug hole. Fortunately, all my vehicles have vertically-mounted oil filters that are easy to pre-fill.
filter orientation doesnt really matter much if you are pre filling your oil filter. Within a minute the oil soaks into the fliter material and it wont run out again.