Turbo Go Kart Finally Makes Boost!
In this video we put a Turbo on the 60's go kart! What we needed to do was make a turbo manifold, oil system, and electrical system to make sure the turbo could run completely autonomously, that way when we hook it up to the engine, we would know that there were no issues on the turbo side of things. After we did that we ran this turbo kart under boost with 2 carburetors, made custom intake piping, and finally revved it up and tuned it so it ripped!
Before we began the install we filmed some awesome driving footage to get a preliminary test so we could compare before and after the turbo was installed.
Thanks for watching and be sure to stay tuned for this thing making some boost while driving!
Music by Joakim Karud / joakimkarud
bandcamp.com/download?id=3635...
PARTS-
Mikuni Carb - www.gopowersports.com/22mm-mi...
18 pound valve springs - www.gopowersports.com/18lb-va...
Exhaust and Air Filter -www.gopowersports.com/deluxe-p...
Tires - www.gopowersports.com/410-x-3-...
Inner Tubes - www.gopowersports.com/410-5-tu...
Motor Kit - www.gopowersports.com/6-5-hp-2...
Catch can - www.gopowersports.com/aluminu...
Header pipe:
www.gopowersports.com/header-...
Mechanical Fuel Injection:
www.gopowersports.com/tillots...
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I would personally just do a pull through system turbo boost outlet directly to the intake and only run one carb
Yeah I don't understand what is so fucking complicated about this...
I agree with this
Came here to comment this. They are making it way more complicated than necessary.
Yup, one draw through and call it a day. All the problems would be solved.
the problem with that set up is the fuel droplets, instead of remaining atomized and gas like, all the way to the combustion chamber, condense on any of the surfaces that it flows over so in the end you end up with a mixture that is no longer stoichiometric. obviously the longer the intake tract the more surface area there is to cause problems.
When you place the carb after the turbo, it blows the fuel back into the the float bowl and can blow the seals of the carb and fuel out of the float overflow. If you're going to keep the 2 carb set-up, then run the the pre-turbo carb wide open all the time and use the second carb as the throttle control or vice versa. Also on the idle carb on the boost side, you should block off the float over flow and any non-jetted ports leading to the float bowl. But I recommend getting rid of the second carb on the boost side and getting a lectron carb and placing it on the intake side of the turbo. Lectron carbs are self tuning and work amazingly for carb turbo setups.
Ben Hawke Yeah, that’s why we attempted to pressurize it by putting that screw in there. We still had issues with that though.
@@BuildBreakRepeat You should use a lectron carb. It's self tuning and works great for turbo setups.
Ben Hawke I’ll look into it thanks.
@@BuildBreakRepeat You missed one more part, the fuel tank must be pressurized as well, otherwise the boost will push the fuel back into the tank or atleast prevent more fuel from coming in.
Scoffing evidence setup would help. They have setups specifically for putting a Turbo on a small engine.
Y'all are making this build far more complicated than need be. Put the Mikuni directly onto the turbo air inlet. Connect the boost side directly to the engines intake. Plumb exhaust and jet up as needed. So long as the turbo draws air through the carb instead of forcing air/pushing air through it you'll be fine.
Try using one carb at the intake of the turbo then at the exit use a continuous pipe to the in take of the engine
Just use one carb ! keep the mikuni as a blow through keep that screw in the vent and run a boost reference line to the venturi then install a pulse fuel pump job done ! 👍🏻
You can always divert boost pressure to the gas tank and keep the whole fuel system pressurized, that would keep the carb able to pull fuel through
I'm turboing a roadster reverse trike and was thinking g of doing this. And article I can read about doing this? Safety concerns?
@CygnusHomes the safety concern is that the blow off valve may release pressurized fuel air mix (boom). You have to be really careful. The best option I can think of is having a longer boost tube than plenum to allow the expansion of the fuel air mix. You also might want to put a spark arrestor on both sides of the turbo to prevent ignition of the boost tube in the event of air fuel reaching the hot compressor
Do it with just the draw through. No blow through.
I’m sooooo glad I found this Channel
The blow through carb will need a high pressure fuel supply if you want to do it that way. What happens is the bowl gets pressured by the intake air as soon as you make any boost and it pushes all the fuel out of the carb. Some people actually put a sealed box around the entire carb to help with help solve pressure differential issues. That being said, you should be able to make it work with just one carb up-stream of the turbo (draw through). With a properly sized and jetted carb you should be able to make it run well. I did this on a car of mine and it worked pretty well.
Couldnt they just run a boost line to the tank and seal the lid tight?
That would work actually, I did think for a moment that the sealed tank would draw vacuum as the fuel got used up but it wouldn't do... Mounting the carb in a plenum is an idea I've been pushing since the first turbo vid too, solves so many problems instantly.
Azn runs the dung beetle with a draw through carb and it seems to work pretty well.
fuckery abounds it could work, but then you have a tank full of pressurized air and gasoline. Very easy for that to turn into a bomb. Safety is rarely even in my top 5 priorities and I wouldn’t want to be around that.
I don't know that it would be any more or less dangerous than having fuel pressurised by a pump though really. In an enclosed space like a fuel tank the vapour/air ratio is much too high for it to be explosive, hence why it's possible to use electrical level senders and in-tank pumps without danger of explosion. I guess if the boost pressure caused the tank to rupture and spray fuel everywhere, but I don't think it's overly likely with the levels of boost this engine will run. Like you say though, a plenum and properly regulated fuel supply is the better option & what I'd go for if I could.
*Build Break Repeat* Awesome project and video, following your progress for sure. An idea for a future video: Put a 1980's VW smog pump on a predator as a supercharger. I have seen some examples that make crazy RPM's and power. It is essentially a scroll supercharger with the perfect plumbing dimensions for a small engine. Thank you for all your great content, longtime subscriber.
Now there's some prime recycling if that's true. Being from the UK I'd never even considered smog pumps as we avoided them, but if they're a scroll compressor with decent volume then it'd be a really cool project and probably much easier than a turbo..
@@danmackintosh6325 One example among many, this one uses a mustang smog pump... kzhead.info/sun/mqmLlqqpb5d3fmg/bejne.html
An aisin amr300 supercharger would also be really good for something that size. It's 300cc and you can find them online for like 200$
A amr 500 is how I supercharged my UTV!! LOL Badass little superchargers!
I love the old 67 to 72 Chevy sitting in your driveway I love that old girl I used to have a 1970 C10 dad had the 68 C20
Can't wait to see the rotary running.
You guys are the first people to do this and have any signs of it actually working. I think cars and cameras tried this and grind hard plumbing co tried this and neither of them had any success, good work engineers lol
Nice work guys I have full confidence that you will figure it out keep it up 👍👍🚗💨💨💨💨
Single cylinder carberated turbo running clean. I dont know if thats a first but its the first ive seen it work. Good job guys. I hope you get this runnin smooth. That'd be pretty cool and not a bad claim to fame for your channel.
Great work! And nice fabrication skills! One thing i would recommend is get rid of the second carb after the turbo, like many others have said, and then tune the TCT to very rich and then take out fuel as you go. It will keep your engine nice and safe under boost and then lean it out for maximum power. Maybe even get a cheap wideband o2 with a gauge to monitor the air/fuel ratio.
Your original blow through setup would work fine if you just route the carburetor vents to the compressor outlet. Also will need to enlarge jets otherwise it will run far to lean on boost. Watch my turbo welder video for more info.
Optimal is right, use only the Mikuni carb., in a blow through design but, you won't need to enlarge the jets much, as there is now positive pressure inside the bowl of carb. Been there, done that :)
I love how everyone tried to help here and not be negative to these guys, this is how its suppose to be. I even learned some things thanks
need more of this in our world
Just the draw through system by Itself will work just fine. You may need to figure out a pressure activated fuel advance flow system, but that is easy as well. Just a simple Hobbs pressure switch and fuel accelerator pump will work on this. We did it for years in our sandcars with Volkswagen engines.
You got my sub! Looking forward to the rotary 300cc kart
I have envy of that rotary
I have a 75 rotary Suzuki really cool even to just look at.......from Wyoming USA 🔫🤠
install both carburettors before the turbo, and both open at the same time ;-)
How do you call this a win..... there is no words for this..... just wow
Run a line from the intake to the fuel tank vent hose to give the fuel some positive pressure. Maybe if you do that you could use the single blow through carb(with or without the screw to plug that hole).
Eliminate the blow through carb. Put a "Y" pipe on the inlet side of the turbo. Put a carb on each side of the "Y". Then you can have one for idle and make it so the second carb comes in at 1/4 throttle or so. Kind of like a Dual Quad setup or a Mopar "6 Pack" set up. It is referred as progressive linkage. Blow through carbs don't work unless specifically built as blow through.
Dual quad - Mopar 6 pack ???? They are totally different. A dual quad is 2 four barrel carbs, a 6 pack is 3 two barrel carbs.
I think you guys should make a Diesel kart
Chris ‘s vlogs I’ve been looking for one...if I find a good deal I’ll be on it 😏
Great craftsmanship
I did the same thing, but I’m running a mikuni with the bolt threaded in. I had the exact same issue. All you need is a pulse pump. Cost 15$ and solved all my problems , just make sure you put a t in the line that returns to the tank so you don’t flood the carb
You need to put a live rear axle on that
It's like a turbo version of v-tech
Nope lol
We saw your invention but, couldn't put heads or tails on it. We installed a Hayabusa engine on a cool off-road go-cart and came up with an Awesome built. We have a 10-gallon gas tank on it. And we are very proud of ours. .gas lasts forever.
Good job! Looks like that would be a lot of fun....
Ever heard of re jetting? Damn lmao
Yeah agreed. Wtf are they doing adding carbs? I'm thinking, "why don't they just check the plugs and rejet?"
Just rejecting won't help, they are pressurizing the after turbo carb. It's just pushing the fuel back into floatbowl. They only need one carb before the turbo. This was done on snowmobiles back in the 90's for boondocking.
789th! I just saw the last vid on the turbo kart 1 hour ago lol
I wanted to turbocharge a go kart, but now I want to turbocharge a rotary go kart. This one video has made me subscribe.
on a push turbo/carb setup. in order to keep the fuel flowing u connect boost pressure to the fuel overflow on the carb ..this makes the bowl and internal carb pressure equal allowing the fuel to flow correctly and increasing fuel flow under boost
Make it live axle
u cant pressurize that after turbo carb u need just the one befor the trubo and get rid of the after turbo carb and jet the befor turbo carb
You can't draw through a carb with out risking blowing up, you need to make a small box around the blow through carb and have that pressurized as well. It will not work right unless you do that.
JoeGrand sure you can. What needs to be done is to just use/have the throttle plate in use on the draw through carb and add fuel after the turbo (also called fuel injection).
If your using a traditional carb.the easy and best way is to be pressurized on the out side as well with the boost. Other methods may have different. Needs, like 2 carbs wtf. I was talking about this one in particular, and blwing hot air through a carb is different than blowing fuel through a 1600 degree turbo. You run that even leaner and say good bye to you head that's a foot away.
@@TurboTeaBagger Do you have any idea what you're talking about? the only side that's 1600 degrees (and even that's bullshit because the aluminum wheel melts as 1200) is the exhaust side. You better not have fuel over there. Seriously, wtf...
@@@kleetus92 . Yes I know what I'm talking about, most cars fun egt at 1000- 1200 degrees. Gas flash point is in the 200s ignition is 495. So running lean and hitting 1600 on the output side is very possible , its possible to get 500 degrees on the intake side quite easily and fuel puddling on the compessor housing spells horrific backfires. Look at the draw through carb on the 🍋 s most ended very bad. . Now put that a foot from your head.
there are 2 ways to do it correctly: 1 carb mounted to turbo inlet and jetting it just right. The turbo will suck air and fuel throught carb. In addicion evaporating fuel will coll down intake tube so no need for intercooler 2. Blow-through application. In order to work you'll need special carb and fuel supply pump that delivers at pressure about 2-3 psi higher that boost pressure. Mikuni carbs that you have will just leak from every gaskett possible and boost pressure will cause fuel to return to the tank.
It's refreshing to see that there is still some young gear heads out in the world. I thought everyone was playing call of duty
Why are you all youtubers trying to make carburated turbo karts?...KIDS TIME TO GO EFI.
Agree, i Can't blame them for a 2 stroke, but a carburated industrial engine sucks balls with a 3 hp
draw through carb works just fine. stfu.
efi kit are not cheap for small engine,i was looking for one for my gy6 and was around $300 to $700.the only way to get one for cheap ,might be off a grom. turbo are cheaper than a Efi kit.
Because nobody wants to deal with a $10 USB to RS232 adapter to use the cheaper and older version of Megasquirt. (And perhaps running XP virtualized to run the software?) So they look at the most recent version of the Megasquirt (which is over-featured for the task) and it's $500 more expensive than they want to deal with.
The main reason is forced induction will make more power than EFI. Put them together sure, but not just EFI by itself...
I don't see a reason for 2 carbs. Kiss, keep it simple stupid. You are creating more problems for yourselves. Start with small amount of boost and work up from there.
Uncle Muir he needs the second one so he can get enough fuel
Uncle Muir they should both be before the turbo tho
@@paulkanarios202 put bigger jet in carb
Use a bigger carb not two! Sheesh.
Dan Matz then its gonna run rich at low rpms
I recommend sealing the fuel take and adding a fuel reference line to the take and only using one carb the one with boost.you need to add 6.8% more fuel per psi and since the carb you are using does not use pressure 1 psi is 6.8% more fuel.when there is no boost there will be the same amount of fuel as normal and it will use the boost referenced line as a breather.
Haha this is awesome, good work fellas. Wish i could turbo my Dirt Kart but then it wouldn't be legal for the track. Keep up the good work
Just get a fuel injection kit and do away with carbs.
Turbo exhaust pipe diameter needs to be increased for better turbo spool
Not true I'm afraid. Smaller diameter equals faster spool, larger diameter equals more topend. Their are calculations to work it out.
i think Gary is right...just imagine if the pipe was fifty feet wide, how slow the air would move
@@philtripe youre absolutely right. It's explained by the Venturi effect.
Actually Alex is Right, the exhaust pipe is after the turbine, so you want it open. The exhaust manifold is where you want small, before the turbine to keep velocity and heat up. The turbine is the restriction, after the turbine you want atmospheric conditions, so yes that small ass pipe is too small. I had a Rx7 making 450rwhp out of a 1.3 liter engine. Gt35r 20psi... I know I am right.
@@williamkillingsworth2619 😂😂 you are right about the manifold part and the turbine being a restriction. My point was that bolting the biggest diameter pipe you can find on it does not equal more spool, it will move the graph closer to the right. A calculated and correctly tuned exhaust will give maximum spool and an optimum powerband in a required rpm range. I tested several turbo back systems on my car when struggling with a restriction problem and a 2.75" milltek out spooled a 3" milltek by 300rpm on the same afternoon on the same Dyno. It dropped around 8hp to the larger diameter. The 2.75" was resonated, the 3" was not.
awesome work, i wanna do a fun project like this.
Wait! Nice job guys. Looks like fun!
Also take that other carb off.. that second carb at the base of the engine isn’t designed to run under pressure so it’s blowing the needle n seat open forcing it to flood.. it should run just fine with the carb that’s attached to the turbo. That’s a draw thru setup
Why wouldn't you just put bigger jets in the carburetor
Brians Vlogs it will run super rich when idling.
not if you just put a bigger main jet in it
Yeah I guess it would run super rich when idling, I was thinking about when the engine was at higher rpms
@@briansvlogs16 There's an idle mixture screw isn't there? set that one tight and set the main. Not understanding where the problem is...
Fuel has no pressure but there is pressure in carb venturi? What do you think what happens? Does bigger jets or idlescrews help?
I am glad to see kids still messing around with shit like this give them a big thumbs up good job
I want more of the Dorito motor!!! I love all your videos!
You can't pressurize a carburetor like that. Ditch the old mikuni carb and run the electronic one between the turbo and engine. You guys make things way to complicated for no reason.
There is such thing as a blow through carb. Doing a draw through would be so much simpler though.
You guys are trying to re event the wheel
You could plumb it into your rubber stuff near the 1st carb, they sell check valves at any big box stores.
I agree that you only need a draw through carburetor and jet it a little higher for better fuel distribution.
800 for efi? Lol I could do a car for less. It's called a junkyard, ohms law, and an Arduino
What would you get for management?
I was shocked when I seen that rotary engine I did some studying on those a while ago those bikes are very rare and the parts are worth a lot of money
Nicely done!! I’ve been intently watching / waiting for this episode by episode. I honestly thought I had subbed a while ago, however something was amiss but you’ve gained a sub, solid content. Good ideas, solid commentary with an actual vocabulary not common KZhead “Ebonics” 😂😂 beautiful job gentleman. Let’s see her ride!!!!!
Also you can build a chamber around the carb- pressurized air surrounds the carb to prevent pump out from carb vent
Nice build guys!! Spool it up baby!!
I had several experiences turbocharging carbureted small blocks back in the '80s, and I'm still turbocharging vehicles today. I highly suggest using a "draw thru" (or "wet charge") setup, over the "blow thru" (or "dry charge") setup. A single carb on the inlet side of the turbo, with a discharge pipe into the intake ("draw thru") is less complicated, and makes for easier tuning. A "blow thru" setup requires fabricating a totally sealed enclosure for the carb, so the carb's vent circuits "see" the same atmospheric pressure from the discharge pipe, that the venturi, idle circuit, air bleeds, fuel bowl and the needle/seat all "see" when under boost. Deleting the turbo outlet exhaust housing, in favor of the integral wastegate delete and wastegate puck block-off plate, will obviously cause high boost pressures. But, if you can keep it around 5-7 psi, while using the stock carb and increasing just the main jet 10-15%, you'll probably be in the ballpark for fuel requirements. BUT... after seeing the surging, low pressure and air pockets in the oil supply for the turbo, these recommendations may just be moot points. Anyway, good luck with the project. Happy Trails..!!
good video guys. i would only use a single carb blow thru setup. as draw thru will run rich and is harder to tune. so you can do it one of 2 ways put the carby in a box that is pressurized under boost (best option depending on parts availability for option 2). the other way is to forget the box and mod the carby and boost reference the fuel bowl, also changing the float to a solid style is a good idea too, also a fuel pump. otherwise when under boost it will only have whats in the fuel bowl.
That’s hot.Cant wait to see you drive it. I’m always fixing my go karts and making them faster but that gokart is gonna be way faster than my yerf dog.
Use a single carb (the mikuni or a slightly bigger mikuni) before the turbo. Make sure the turbo to the engine pipe is completely sealed, engine vacuum will pull the fuel/air mixture throught the carb and then turbo. Car guys in the pre-EFI days used this Draw-Thru system. Thanks.
Could always make a slide valve blow through carb, reference bowl/vents and a fuel pot to a boost reference spot
when i found this channel i was surprised it didn't have many sub.
You could have just used a mechanical FMU that activates by boost pressure. The more boost pressure you have, the more fuel it allows. Cool project for sure!
Awesome video!!!!
The mikuni is set up for normally aspirated flow, and not turbocharging. If you buy a carb setup already for boost, it will run much better, and you'll only need one carb and throttle. And it's cheaper than you think if you Google fu around. Great job on the fabrication and concept.
People have given you some interesting suggestions. Here's one you might consider. About 45 years ago I saw a McColloch belt driven supercharger on a Studebaker Lark. The carb was enclosed in a sealed air box. The supercharger fed the air box. That way the air pressure resulting from the boost would be equal inside and outside of the carb and would not cause carb leaks. You would only need 1 (your highest volume) carb to run the engine. Fuel line and adjustment controls could be run through the air box with air tight seals , as not to loose boost pressure. That way you could make your adjustments on the outside while the engine was under boost. Of course instead of feeding the air box with a supercharger, you would use your turbo. And the wastegate could be plumbed between the turbo and air box. If it would ever open you would only vent air and not an air fuel mixture.
Not sure how much you can modify those carburetors but that’s a really cool way of adding more fuel to the system
Draw thru works great on small engine and simple.
Need a boost dependant fuel pressure regulator? I used 1 on my blowthrough carb. Also I had to rebuild my carb with custom gaskets made from gasket sheet. No leaks !
Some sort of boost refferenced fuel pressure would fix your problem, if the carb is designed for boost. Looks really cool 😎
You guys should do that small one then keep putting bigger turbos on till it’s in like 50-60mm turbo then start breaking things with boost just gonna take a lot longer to spool
Great Job guys!!
Damn that rotary engine, can't wait
I think a draw through carb mounted in front of the turbo might be simpler. However I really like your idea of the two carbs (one set up for basically NA and the 2nd for boost) since the engine is small and spooling could be a real issue that is not a problem on larger engines, this dual carb set up might....maybe...could be a good idea. With that in mind you need a fresh air idle/intake circuit for the 1st “NA carb” so it can draw air in after the 2nd carb/turbo. With a one way vent valve. So while running in NA rpms that carb can pull it’s own air bypassing the turbo set up completely. Once boost starts to generate that pressure will over take the vacuum and push the one way vent valve close and start pressurizing the air going into the NA carb. And that should allow you to tune the “boost carb” to begin the richening process. This would also prevent you from running rich when in NA rpms (because it will be getting fresh air completely bypassed the turbo/carb assembly.) Hope this makes sense and helps!
From the way the left wheel shakes around when you run the engine makes me think that the axle might be bent. Best of luck :)
Love y'all vids
Love what you guys do! Also, I like your shelves and idea of storage area above your garage door.👍🏻
I would use a power jet, basically an adjustable jet running in the intake before the carb or at the mouth of the carb. Normally used in 2 stroke applications where the engine leans out extremely at higher RPMs.
Oh, I like it!
That air jet you just blocked is where it starts to aerate the fuel by forcing air into the needle jet. I helps atomize the fuel I.E. efficiency.
W2000?! That's so cool, was the last engine that I thought I would see in murica
Daisy chain lol. Fabulous fab work
Draw threw turbo setup is the way to this to operate, put ur carb on the turbo intake and remove the carb on the engine, run ur charge pipe from the turbo straight in to the head port ,sorted boys ,😉
Carburetors are draw through, and when the turbo pressurises the carb it pushes back the fuel back into itself and the gas is coming out the overflow. Only put the carb pre pressure or before the forced induction. Like most other people have mentioned.
If all else fails: -Turbo Intake directly into a throttle body -Fuel injectors @ 200CC+ Sent in JUST before the Internal Combustion manifold. Turbo Exhaust Manifold
pressurize/equalize the float bowl via breather /overflow from carb. Then the if you make it a sucker rather than a blower the intake run into the cylinder has to be straight as possible
500th LIKE keep up the great vids as always !
Noice man, one big ass mikuni would do it though on the turbo inlet
Just rejet the carb you can control low-end and top end with the Jets in the mid-range by moving the clips down on the needle
I've seen way too many people fail at this it needs a blow threw setup with a box around the carb and a fuel pump so it doesn't just blow bubbles in the fuil tank on boost
I love your videos guys i am also about to make my own go kart chanel as soon as my go kart alley frame arives
It was on the brink of explosion... “that’s a win” 😂😂😂
Draw through is the way to go. You’ll need a fuel pump that pushes MORE pressure than the turbo itself, otherwise, under boost it will push the fuel back out of the carb. I built a turbo beetle back when I worked for fisher buggies, 2332 with a single draw through carb. 390 wheel horsepower.
That Sachs rotary is gonna be sick
Just a couple of kids trying to figure out how to make something work. Kudos to them. Instead of people criticizing their work they should give them tips to make it better