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Is this the future of climbing? We tried a brand new Led wall system and adjustable Kilter Board! bergenklatreklubb.no/klatreha...
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#Climbing
Being colorblind, having routes lit up instead would be amazing. Also I want to set a home wall but I'm obviously not a route setter. Being able to just match a template and light up routes that professionals have already set would be perfect.
Im a color blind climber too! Never let it hold you back from enjoying what you love
@@lordinch8282 i feel you guys. beeing on the wall like "that hold? no? that? damn it? what about this one?" :D all the time
Color blindness really is a bitch at the walls with multiple routes and tape. When I climbed outside for the first time I thought it was so much easier because I wasnt stressing about grabbing the wrong holds.
Grasshopper sell a home wall that lights up and has routes set by josh larson, (us climbing team head coach). Obviously quite expensive but so are the kilter and moonboard
@@easteregg8699 i'm not even that colorblind and i still have this problem all the time. one of the gyms i went to always had a dark red tape right next to a black tape route. id always have to stare at the problems for a while to remember which is which
I'd forgotten about that harness thing 😅 next video we'll work on tieing in Magnus 😂 classic!!
All the new climbers won't feel such a tool now as Magnus cocked up too happens to the best of them 😁
@Wide Boyz - Pete! Looking like your recent knee injury is better dude! What did you do to aid recovery? Just rest and avoid savage moves? Asking as I've had meniscus surgery recently.
DAY 1 of requesting a " TOTAL BEGINNER CLIMBING GUIDE! with such informations included
@Eric kicking liberals I'm not any sort of expert, but climbing routes would not be a problem at all for your knees and would be a great way to lose some weight. You'd probably want to stay away from bouldering as taking falls on to the ground is hard on knees.
The approach for the last hold was different for Pete than Magnus. Magnus uses his right hand, so left hand stays on better hold to decrease the swing. I believe if Pete would try Magnus's beta he would get at least one angle more sent.
You can tell how hard a problem is by how red Pete’s face is after climbing it. This needs to be its own grading index.
How comparable is that to the O-scale?
Oy! Frankie, I'm running out of power! It's okay, Bob, try this one. It's only rated light pink!!
@@since1876 "Light pink"? Are you mental? This is an easy magenta!
@@DoubLL I'm expected to remember the contents of a video from 9 months ago?
@@since1876 no. That was a joke
I definitely see the utility in the LED climbing walls-- they're super compact and can the problems can be essentially standardized throughout the world. However, I love that each climbing gym has unique walls as well. For example, I loved seeing Magnus climbed in the tiny Tokyo climbing gyms, and seeing how they make use of their space. Since every climbing gym is a bit different, it feels like a new adventure in every climbing gym. I love that aspect
100% agree
A well thought-out perspective =) I love the idea of transferable, world-wide boulders - a metric to compete with, for everybody and regardless of their other circumstances - but also consider "custom" individual gym settings important, because you know, standardization tends to simplify things generaly speaking. So I think it's a good idea to keep a wall around that has its own, unique problems, gives climbers something to adjust to on the regular to keep the whole thing from getting too universal and predictable.
This really lacks volumes in my opinion. Volumes are an interesting part of indoor climbing and reciprocate pretty well the different shapes real rock can have.
Good point. Imo there should be one of these walls in each gym, just like a speed wall. Having another way to 'benchmark' is interesting without giving up the original feel of the gym.
True! If there is everything standardized, where is the human in it.
I'd be excited to have a wall like this in every gym, however, I'd still want almost 100 percent normal walls in a gym. Otherwise every gym would have exactly the same routes. I want to walk into different gyms and notice their route setter's creativity.
The climbing gym I go to has a kilter board you control with your phone but the angle is fixed. I haven't used it yet but I think I'll have to try it out.
What about when these boards become the size of gyms. Using some standardized hold set pattern or procedural algorithms to make the boards, they could tesselate to arbitrary walls and sizes. With a configurable wall consuming an entire gym, I really thing we the route setter's creativity has just been moved to designing it on an app rather than having to screw into the wall. Sure, the obvious routes will be designed fast, but just like a guitar with just 6 strings can have effectively endless melody pour out, so can a large enough wall be reconfigured. I'd go for adding even more holds for more options, in the future perhaps we can use electrostimulatable polymers to differentially harden pressurized volumes to reshape holds on the fly. That stuff is too experimental, just talking fantasy, but some idea should work... Maybe just holds designed to be rotated by a servo to give different hold styles and more hold density. IDK, I'm sure there's a possible, good idea along these lines. If we could modify the hold type, we could really up the degrees of freedom to "guitar" levels. Personally, as a programmer, I prefer letting my procedural children paint my pictures for me.
hey i am from the future by 2 years and i can say with ai and routing maths this isnt a problem
At 45° angle: "Now you have to pay attention on your feet" As in: "Before you could just campus it"
🤣
🤣🤣🤣
When in doubt. Campus it. Sounds good. If it only worked just as well
from pro climber to auto belay hero, what a journey
Wish that was what my retirement will look like.
For anyone curious like me: the problem that they were working on the Kilter Board was "Subliminal Skull" 7a+/V7 @ 40º.
I wonder what grade it would get at 59 degrees, v8? :p
@@davidschneider6640 above 50° it hasn’t been logged/graded by anyone (Magnus probably got the FA) wonder what grade he thought it was… I’m gonna give it a go tmrw!
@@dimensionaldot Love to hear your grading :)
@@davidschneider6640 the difference between 40 and 59 is massive. it would probably increase by a couple V grades unless it's set in a way that is conducive to overhang climbing.
I know, would be interesting to try. Magnus made it look roughly the same, but it could be 8A, considering how well he knew the moves by the time they got to 59 degrees.
Hey Magnus do you think you could do a video on the moon board where we the viewers send you problems to try? We would be able to see just how insanely strong you really are 😂
This is a fantastic idea
now that's content xD
You can just try this problem. Start at a shallow angle and see how far you get, just like they did in the video.
+1!
It'll help standardize the grades across the world for sure, but I like the local vibe of each gym. Can we have both?
I mean until now we only saw gyms doing both at least in magnusus videos. So possibly the climbing gyms will do exactly that
@@benediktgsell4428 I think it would be cool to do the same climb as what we'd see in these videos and know it is the same climb.
Yes.
Most gyms that I have been to do both
Some people can't afford to do that though sadly
I've never climbed in my whole life but I would still love to have that wall at home
That wall and a crack cellar built by a reputable carpenter 😁
The LEDs are pretty 😉
give it a try
@@anashaddad9144 I surely will as soon as I get the chance
You can build one at home. I did.
I love these walls, and think they're cool as hell. We'll keep seeing them crop up, but they won't replace route setting. There are so many types of holds and movements that you just can't have on those walls. Tricky volumes, big overhangs, cracks, stemming, and awkward chunky holds are all just off the table on this kind of wall. Amazing training tool, but it likely won't ever match how unique indoor route setting can be.
The manufacturers could use standardized tilesets, maybe procedural generation and produce tesselatable boards to fit on a whole gym. At that point, variety is increased by route size. In the future, electro-hardenable polymers could be used to reconfigure holds on the fly. More reasonably, we can use servos and holds designed to be rotated to have different grips/shapes presented to the climber based on rotation. That'd add considerable options, if the holds can be designed cleverly enough. It'd be inordinately expensive, but motorized walls could totally be used to reconfigure face shapes. Potentially holds could be mounted on XY servo tables if cost/mass production wasn't an issue. Definitely can't beat screw mounting for the placement and cost-effectiveness. Yeah, that last paragraph isn't going to happen. Still, I think tesselated over a whole gym, and rotatable holds would be enough configurability/variety to entice people through the idea of being able to design their own routes instantly. Just pick the surface shape you want, then pick route start and end, pick climbing style...and have an app which procedurally chooses/generates a route for it. The costs though, would be a novelty now...I guess it's only really sensible to have a kilter board in the corner, even going into the future.
Yeah Magnus gaining like 1k subs every other day, big growth on the channel. When it reaches 10 mil one day we can say we the OG's
Im here since he had 50k or smthin haha
Ye man
I think this channel is too niche too reach 10 million subs, although climbing is growing in popularity so idk
He might not reach 10 mil but even 2mil as a >90% climbing channel is impressive
Woah i just noticed how many subs he has. I remember subscribing at like 100k total and that wasn’t even that long ago
No way! You guys are trying my 50° kilterboard project!!! So sick to see this!
I do believe that these programmable LED boards are the future of climbing, yes. There will probably be one in 10 years that will blow our minds. Hope you do another episode with Pete! Love that guy.
Pete's the best!
I‘m actually a huge fan of big holds and haven‘t seen any of them on LED boards yet... 🙈
I actually think there will be walls that are completely, but you can set any route imaginable and the holds of different shapes and sizes just magically pop out of the wall. I am always annoyed by the look of these kind of light up walls. It just looks messy^^
That wall tilting would make a fun contest, run it like a high jump where you are allowed only 3 fails but can skip rounds.
Loving these vids with Pete. It's a really great chemistry. You both bring a really interesting perspective.
The gym I go to just got one of the LED walls, and there’s even an app for it where you can use already set climbs and even make your own- it’s super cool. The angle is also adjustable.
Haven’t climbed in over 3 years started watching your videos in lockdown an booked in for first session on Saturday
You could make 20 videos like this with different boulders on the Kilter Board and I would gladly watch all of them!
I don't think that LED boards will ever replace traditional gym route setting, but wow is it amazing for training!
That right-hand first is really cool, it shows how beta can change depending on angle. Not enough figure-4s though.
the best part of led boards with memorised routes is people can load up a problem they are stuck on for months instead of once the gym changes it its gone, or load up routes from an outdoor location to get used to it before going the possibilities are endless or even if gyms didn't have the led wall they could have the soft wear of routes to set up in their standard gym
It's so cool to see you guys on problems that I do on the kilterboard. Obviously you made it look super easy at 30 degrees and more. A lot of tensions going through the body. Time to do more ab work for me!
I can def see the value of the led-walls, perfect for benchmarking when everyone can do the exact same routes. But I see it as a complementary to all the traditional and unique routes you see at gyms all over the world! Looking forward to seeing that clean 1 mil on the sub count! 😍
Did you just start video with warming up on 5.13b? 😅 What is the inclination on the big wall?
I find that the kilterboard is much easier to see with LED lights than something like a tension board. One downside is that because you can see the holds so much better, it doesn’t make you route read as much before you get on a route, which is something the tension board was really helping me with. Despite everything, the kilterboard is just absolutely gorgeous.
Thank you! Routereading is still important in terms of thinking out the moves before you go as it can help reduce the effort and time you have to spend on the wall. That said, we understand what you mean, and we're glad you like the Kilter Board!
@@KilterClimbingGrips Thanks for making such a cool board 🙏🙏🙏
13:04 Out of nowhere, the song starts to sing in Portuguese. 🇧🇷
Yeah kkkkjkkk boom dia
🇧🇷
sotaque de Angola ;)
sabia que ia ter alguém que tbm reparou nisso kkkkk
The one glaring problem i see with those walls is the lack of variety with holds. They are mostly smaller holds and crimps. There are creativity set big volumes or weird slopers.
It's always good fun with Pete in the videos!
I stopped climbing 6 years ago but i thought why they don't go over with the right hand on the last move and was so proud that I still could judge that correctly
The kilter wall looks amazing, however I wish it had more different holds. They look basically all of the same type. But there're no half-balls or other kind of shapes
I dont think this is the future of climbing, because just the feel walking into a jump and looking at the different routes and colored holds everywhere - I just cant get enough of that and i would not want to miss it
I think they just meant it’s part of the future, not the whole future. Bright colored holds that don’t light up will always be with us
Immediate, at intro, impression: those light up walls are wild, I love them!
Five minutes in and it already looks a bit creepy, in a sterile way. Reminds me of HAL 9000.
Oh, this adjustable light up wall is much more interesting.
@@BrandonLongwell Thank you!
@@BrandonLongwell I feel the same way. The bouldering walls are really cool, but the climbing walls look like a hospital hall
Brilliant. Love the videos with you and Pete. Always seems like you both enjoy yourselves 👍
Love the LEDs and adjustable wall. Nice work on the wall guys
I would LOVE to have an autobelay wall with harder climbs like this. All the gyms I've been to reserve that for the easy stuff for beginners, but you can get really difficult on top rope too, and with the autobelay you're not limited by having a partner available to climb with you. I can only train bouldering most of the time because my schedule doesn't line up with my friends'.
One of the biggest issues I have with led/moonboard/etc boulder routes is there's just not that intentional feeling to it. Also when you get a fresh set of bouldering problems in your local gym the holds are crisp and clean.
Mechanical engineer here, I think this wall really needs a safety chain attached to the concrete wall that won't let the swivel wall past 65º. Just in case those cylinders pop off, the chain would hold the wall and not crush the climber underneath.
such a fun/feel good climbing vid while still getting me pumped to send, keep it up man!
I think this is a great way to allow for a lot more variety in routes with these types of boards. I would love to see a newer version of this type of wall that includes volumes and cracks though.
When you realize the picture of “something that was supposed to look like real rock”is actually a picture of your local rock climbing gym😳(shoutout to metrorock Everett, MA. Go check it out if you’re in the Boston area:)
Shoutout to metro rock Everett, MA?
@@zacharyquigley7527 yep:)
It was super interesting watching how much the feet and hips technique changed as the angle increased. Really unique episode!
This is an awesome idea. I hope this will be the future of rock climbing! Imagine how many modes we could get. Maybe there could be a Timebomb mode where you’ll have a time limit on each hold, or maybe a trap mode where if you held on a certain hold, it changes the layout of the rocks. That would be awesome! P/s: might wanna include some access abilities settings for colorblind climbers too
this is actually really cool idea, but it requires that the holds have sensors to know when someone has touched it, which i’m not sure that this does
My days always brightens up so much whenever I see magnus posts, no matter what he posts. Just a real down to earth and hardworking guy, climbing and trying new things.
Standardisation has its benefits, but stifles flexible and creative route-setting. I love it when a route setter just slams a massive collection of volumes in the middle of the wall and does weird and wild things with them.
Have a question for the next Q&A: Marte started climbing because of you, have you started doing anything new because of her?
I suppose Magnus actually stopped doing a thing or two "because of her", namely chalking up every other minute, as that can be inconvenient once it gets to cooking or having a great time together as a couple... :D But it would be interesting to hear the actual answer to the original question, too!
As a route setter I feel like this type of wall will allow you to set really quickly, but I can see some very specific styles that might be hard to pull off (slab, arrete, chimney, that sort of thing), so I feel like there will always be a place for traditional walls. Also, how do maintain such a wall? Take the holds off and remember where they go? Have a labelling system?
Maybe on each hold there like coordinates sorta thing on the back.
i would hate it if all the walls are like this LED wall. each route is pretty much the same. the gym i go to has a ton of inventive routes with big moves, overhangs, volumes, etc. this just looks like 10000 different crimpy routes
Also these holds are pretty straight forward how you can hold them. Normal routes have much more options on how to grip them, where to place your hands and feets etc
notation would be easy to create/organise for routes with co ordinates and tags/titles for each specific hold type
The multi colored holds are a big part of my enjoyment of being in the climbing gym. I like the colorful environment it creates, and I like seeing the colors as I'm climbing. It's a dimension of visual stimulation that's very pleasant.
Really fantastic video! It was so cool seeing how much the problem would change at each step. I enjoyed seeing how you guys would even change your technique a little bit just based on the angles as well, despite it all being the same moves (eg. I noticed difference in foot placement, how you'd flag, tension, etc). It makes sense you would, but to be able to see it so gradually like in this video was awesome. This all further emphasized by the last attempt on the 59 where you went right hand first - really awesome! Thank you for the great vid and always love seeing Pete in there as well :)
We loved it as well!
i love seeing pete and magnus climbing together you guys have such good chemistry
Yeah def 😅
This wall takes less place, but it's like always a huge waiting line in front of it. So it makes sense only there are several LED boards in the hall
Dude! You’ve got to come to Asheville NC and check out The Riveter! Brand new gym that’s pretty mind blowing 🤘
Love your vids! Finally geting a climbing centre near me. Looking forward to getting the chance to climb!
Climbing LED lit holds in the dark (with maybe just a headlamp) would be awesome!
Damb- my gym used to have beer light off and headlamps night; oc stopped cuz of covid. But definetly a cool idea
I really hope I get to climb one of these someday, these should definitely be more mainstream!
WoW, loved the challenge on this video and format. Also collaborating with wide boyz is awesome!
More of these man. This is legit the future. I have been waiting for you to get one of these forever.
next video should be you two doing an elimination climb.. take a v2,3,4 with heaps of holds and just keep eliminating holds until it becomes impossible
To improve my climbing. I am going to make an application where it is just Magnus saying CAMONNNN at different speed intervals.
I love the support between the two. Awesome stuff
Great video, I look forward to hopefully seeing you get on ropes more
Now we need this board, on one of those treadmill type systems.
Hello Magnus. I'm 16 and started 4 months ago and I'm still wondering if there is a world where I could still compete. Love your content, always looking forward to your videos.
I love the clips with you both. The stoke between you both is high!
I made a super sketchy version of this in my backyard in 2000 when I was 16. Plywood, gate hinges, a cable come-along, all bolted to a tree in my backyard. Looking back I am not sure how it didn't fail and crush me, but it was super cool at the time. The pad was made from two tarps filled with carpet store foam scraps.
Any video with Pete is an instant like 👍
I love how different Pete & Magnus are in matching the top hold. Pete is casual about it and really don't care, while Magnus is extremely thorough in OWNING IT. 😅👍 PS: The comment is for the algorithm.
Wow the 50FPS footage is even better especially during climbing parts, it feels more fluid and detailed !
Super fun, excellent effort on that boulder!
You should try to come up with a feet-first problem on the kilter board that gets harder as you go from a steep to vertical angle.
Rungne is sponsored. Hope you enjoy the vid. ALSO IM SO EXCITED ANOTHER UPLOAD MAGNUS LETS GO!!!
I often see walls and would struggle with figuring out what was part of the route? so having them lit up would be such a great way to make it easier to see where to go, especially if colours are close to each other
my vote goes to the Gray+combo colors ( grreen star / pink finish) looks more esy to see/read the shape of the holds. i was thinking about LED when you post [ Trying the Worst rated Climbing Gym in Tokyo ] and the staff was pointing with the laser or with the stick. Nice job for the guy with the LED ideea and 2x for the two cimbers that motivates you with they're atitude. Because of you guys now i need to get back to shape to test this sport, you having to much fun
The future! I wish we had one of those here in Vancouver!
There is a Kilter Board at one of The Hive gyms in Vancouver.
5:06 I'm glad to see I ain't the only one that screws up twice in a row getting dressed lmfao
Should film some more of these super steep ones but from the side, so we see how big the moves are outwards, rather than upwards...
I was waiting for the right hand throw to the finish. So happy to see it at the end!
Magnus your videos are the best! So close to 1M!!!
gotta admit this looks really cool!
Love it! i'm a huge fan of the kilterboard.
Thank you!
I'm completely new to rock climbing (I've gone indoor twice, topped out once ever, when I was 40Lbs heavier two years ago), and while I lack experience to really say, this super appeals to me. As a gamer / game developer, the ability to tweak the routes, change steepness and redo the same problem with slightly more difficulty, seems like the perfect way to further gamify an already game-like activity. I assume you have connections to the creator of this product, so one idea I'd LOVE to see. The same way you scan that card to adjust the wall - scan an ID card to "login" to a route. When you climb, either cameras (like the AI video you put out recently), pressure sensing on the holds themself, or some combination, you could record the progress on routes per climber. It would be REALLY cool to walk into an indoor gym, pull up your app, and know which routes you have done, how far, how well, etc. No idea if anyone will see this 2 years later, but figured I'd chime in!
I’ve always wanted to try climbing Christmas lights. Very cool.
Also. Let’s get you to 1mil soon please
Omg, Magnus I would love it if i'd see you climb a problem i set on the kilterboard. I guess lot's of people would love that. Maybe you can pick route names from people in the comments and climb them in a video. If you will ever do soemthing like this i'd freak out see you climb my route "Pendulum clock" set by "Xerat"
Yep! Had this idea a few years ago...glad to see someone else did and actually did something with it! Definitely going to check to see if anything like it is available in the US/on the east coast.
Lovin the Rungne collection!! Very minimalist and stylish.
13:04 _bom dia, mais um dia maravilhoso nessa terra_ kkk i was not expecting to hear portuguese in this video 😂 i'm brazilian
Eg har set deg på mesterens mester 😍👍
The moving wall has pretty much infinite possibilities of climbing, with all the different hold and then all those previously done holds/routes at different angles. Would be awesome to use it regularly.
We have a moon board and a tension board at my local Climbing Gym, but the angle doesn't change. They also only have the little light up button LED. I have given them a try, and even made my way to the top using what I think was the easiest way. (Didn't play with the lights I just hoped on🤷♂️)
It's so weird, with these holds, for some reason it looks really easy. But seeing Pete struggling and knowing how good he is, it must be some strange trick of the eye or the camera not liking the LEDs
I thought about getting a mini moonbard but I don't know how beneficial it would be.
Hey!! I always watch your videos, and it was a good surprise to listen to some portuguese words in the soundtrack (13:05 by the way) I think it is the first brazilian song you ever used in the videos. Shout out from all brazilian climbers!! Keep up the good work!!
Amazing idea. So much less clutter then most places and you can clearly tell what the route is.
Magnus: "This is to make sure no kids get their hands in it" *Immediately touches the moving wall
I love how you call it led walls, as opposed to saying each letter individually. L-e-d
Wait other countries don't say led?
@@paulelderson934 I've never heard that here in the US. It doesn't surprise me that, that happens though. People say L-O-L and "LAWL" it just threw me off when I heard "lead" the video.
Imagine climbing this in the dark, that would be a whole new experience.
so a year ago when i found your channel i actually thought of an application for LED walls that would use procedural generation and some form of move difficulty library to make new routes on the fly. this could also be done to force the climber to problem solve on the wall.
Come on Magnus you got a Moonboard just there . How dare you not using it 😜 I also love the kilterboard though
Jfc yes! I was thinking the very same thing and also, ‘Get to the benchmarks already!!’
Have the same harness and do the same thing haha. Those harnesses flip very easily