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We can all agree finger strength is the No.1 attribute for climbing performance...😅
It's no wonder everybody talks about finger strength training and the endless training sessions and tools that exist, but this can also make it a bit overwhelming 😥 when it comes to knowing what is best?!
We thought it would be great to sit down with some of the best climbers 🧗 in the UK (and who have some of the strongest fingers! 💪) to ask them a few questions. We unravel their years of experience and wisdom 👴 to uncover some important lessons, which we can all learn from.
What was really nice about this set of mini-interviews is that some common themes emerged and actually made finger strength training start to sound quite simple 🙂. So if you want to skip ahead 10 years of finger strength training you need to watch this video 👀
The questions I asked were:
1️⃣ What is your overall approach/theme to finger strength training?
2️⃣ What is your favourite exercise for finger strength?
3️⃣ What is one thing you've learned that you can pass on to us?
4️⃣ What is one mistake you've made that we should avoid?
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Having two of literally the best outdoor boulderers in the entire world be this accessible is unheard of in any other sport. I love climbing and the community it creates
To be fair they probably don't make a bunch of money, so doing some quick videos to get free coaching is probably quite nice for them.
Amazing community, not many sports where your top-of-the-pack athletes have active KZhead channels.
Definitely enjoyed the interview format! I'd be interested to see one focused on heel hooks in all their nuances...technique, training, etc...or a broader focal point of maximizing weight onto the feet in general - seems like a nuanced topic with the potential for great insights from experience!
Loved it! Please do more videos like this ... The one about endurance sounds like a great one.
Absolutely do more of these. Love to see y'all using your brand to give strong climbers a platform to share their insights! Thank you, it is a great service to the climbing community.
Would love to see more of these. I think what really helps are the good relevant questions but also the wide variety of climbers you've asked. Could have one episode themed on projecting, how people approach problems/routes they want to do, and how they troubleshoot moves etc
This was an awesome offering. It helps that the climbers you chose could clearly articulate their responses in an in depth way without getting too far in the weeds. Good stuff. Definitely enjoyed it.
this was one of your best videos. thank you. i would appreciate more like this
Great and exciting video. Format is great. Short but with lots of important information and knowledge. Thank you!
Great video! Keep it up, love you Guys❤
yes, please do explore this type of video more. It really has me engaged, taking notes on the side and stuff. absolutely love it.
Definitely like this type of content, thanks for some great info!
Thanks, really enjoyed listening. Perfect timing. One other interesting question would be what they do to prevent finger injuries.
Great format, would love more of this!
great format - thank you!
Really enjoyed this format! Good stuff!
Great video format, would love to see more!
I wish I was near you so I could get your coaching! Great video!
Very cool. I'm in your training program now. It was interesting to hear these different views!
Great video, so important for all of us climbers!
Really cool video, great to hear these perspectives
This is great, feels like a bunch of podcasts buttoned up into a easy to digest short format!
Really Solid video content And concept 💡. Please do More of these!👍👍
great, informative video! I would love to see a video like this based solely on board climbing/training. I have a home wall and access to a moon board. It would be useful to know like what they do for training on the board. Volume of training/repetitions/etc.
Love this format!
Amazing format, would love to see more like that. It’s very interesting, maybe it would be nice to give your perspective on all answers on each question. As example, it’s interesting to notice that for several questions they all had kind of the same answer. For the first one consistency came back pretty much by everyone. And so on. PS: i loved the funny abilities such as “to be better than Olie…”
Love the video! Need more like this
Really helpful! Would love to know more about training tips for other parts of the body
Brilliant stuff!
Yes, good video. More, please!!!😊
10:05 Ah yes Will, I am sure we all have this problem often!
10 - 20% bodyweight is very little though, or did he mean 10 - 20% bodyweight on one arm?
@@gingobingo1567 Most likely
@@gingobingo1567 for sure one arm
One arm is what I assumed as well
He says its more applicable if you’re doing one arm hangs and then gives the 10% 20% stat afterwards
Been bouldering for 2 weeks so this really helps :) thank you!!
Great format, really interesting to hear how some of the strongest climbers train finger strength!
Nice video, definitely enjoyed it!!
This was great thanks so much!
Great vid, definitely continue
yes please more of these
Stellar content. The only feedback I have might be throwing in a question about plateauing, as it pertains to the subject in question.
Great video. I would love to be in a Lattice video. I use a quad block sometimes and have fingerboarding as part of a warm up.
More of this please
More of these please
I would love to see some videos for training or exercise for heavier climbers! As someone that's 195lbs but been Climbing about 9years now and alway feel wight has held me back over finger strength. I'm able to pull 70-85% (174lbs) body weight on one hand lifts but still struggle on steep Climbing and board climbing. any recommendations??
Great video. Lots of takeaways. Cheers
Really informative and cool video 👍👍
Really good video format
About a month in as a beginner rock wall climbing and I've just had my first minor ring finger tweak. Will definitely try some of these training techniques once I'm back to 100 percent.
More videos like this pls❤
Definitely good format. Can you make video about strength and conditioning training? Can you also invite Toby Roberts? because when I watched climbing world cup his body has changed incredibly over that period.
This was definitely a good video, and confirmed some of my ideas.
More like this please!
this was great, more like this.
I looked foward to getting to know the mindset of these athletes 👍
More of this❤
Love it!!
Hangboard, attached to resistance band and do finger curls. It essentially isolates the fingers and wrists for when the shoulders, core and/or other muscle groups are too tired to Hangboard.
Great vid thank you
60 something climber here. My fingers are my limiting factor in how often i can climb. My concern with peeps doing really hard finger strength training in their 20s is they might be setting up for worn out fingers in their 60s 70s 80s when they still want to be climbing as much as possible.
The answers to Q No.4 are all surprisingly relatable even to an amauter like me
Would love to see one on endurance or staying injury free
Yeah this was a good format 👍
Loving the abilities. I rewound the video to make sure I got all the pro tips. Main takeaways: eat more parmesan and get a good lawyer for the missing dividend of finger training.
Im not a climber (yet. Got some nerve damage from my second session ever lol). I figured you can do finger strength with a resistance band. Stand on it and you can pull as progressively hard as you need. You can do individual fingers too. Actually feels bettwr than doing all at the same time
That was awesome :)
The must interesting video ever 🤩
this style is sick
Great video
Sick video and great information:) It would also be very interesting to focus on how the average climber can apply this to their training since there may be quite a gap in knowlegde, time and ressources between pro athletes and the average climber:)
Good feedback thanks! I'll try to add some coaching perceptive if we do this video again :)
It was cool to get answers from a bunch of different people rather than just collating info and presenting it. Personally, I'm a fan of seeing everyone in one room passing around questions and exercises and collaborating a bit, but logistically I understand that's challenging. As they say, variety is the spice of life. Don't stop your other video styles, they're also great, fun, and informative. Thanks for everything you do!
More of this
As a French, consuming English content. I can't tell how beautiful and amazing it is to find videos with an English accent !
Yo! Where can one procure one those pinch thingys that David was using?? I want one!
instagram.com/pinchthing/
Yes pls
Moreeee
Volume, variety, and not over training.
Sick video
“Find something you like and you’ll stick to it” “Transition your training to the board”
AWESOME
Mindset would be good to see.
I have pretty strong fingers I think, I can do mono or two finger crimps on climbs when necessary, and people say I have strong fingers. I think the best way to train finger strength is to climb outdoors a lot, and to climb climbs that make you try hard. Not necessarily projecting, but climb a lot of climbs, particularly at or near your maximum onsight/flash grade. Don't forget to try a grade harder every couple climbs to avoid overtraining at one grade (once you onsight a grade higher, switch up a grade in your training). Nothing trains your fingers and crimps like climbing outside. Also don't injure yourself: back off if you're feeling exhausted, don't train to failure. In fact... This is pretty much how one would improve as a climber in general :)
I would love to see some lead climbing
9:58 my mistake was getting too strong 🤣
7:58 What are the benefits of low level airobic finger training?
endurance
Hopefully the pros answer - but I've used a gyro ball for years as a low level intensity tool....I think ARCing or easy volume climbing is probably better if you have the wall to do it. Anyway, I think the idea is to increase blood flow for increased recovery. Enough aerobic stimulation also leads to increased capillary density over the long term...that said, a lot of this is happening in the forearm muscles - at the level of the fingers you're probably increasing fluid exchange to help the healing process (nutrients in, waste out). Just my two cents FWIW.
When you say finger strength, are you referring to strength, as in the ability to hold/pull your body weight easier? Or like endurance? Or is that one and the same? I’m pretty new to climbing so forgive the silly question. Haha
The former, we aim to do a follow up video on endurance.
good informative video! it would be interesting to see the same format but with less elìte climbers... "more average" people that climbed and trained already for some years but are doing 6s and 7s grades... i guess they would be a lot more relatable than these kind 8c+ beasts 😂
Overcoming isometrics
👍
the number one method is to have good genetics.
9:50 Is Aiden saying that while recovering from a finger tweak, he's taking it too easy? That's the sense I got, but just wanted to confirm
I thought he was saying he's taking it easy enough rather than too easy
No, hes saying his mistake was pushing it too much.
bro how do u get good tech lol
Great vid, definitely continue
More of these please