NEVER Change Another O2 Sensor Until You WATCH THIS!
ALWAYS follow these tips when installing O2 sensors! These oxygen sensors are very expensive, sensitive, and have to be handled with care. They are almost always stuck in the exhaust pipes so watch these tips so they don't get stuck again! READ MORE BELOW FOR TOOLS, SENSORS, AND PARTS USED IN THIS VIDEO!:
Tools/Parts: www.amazon.com/shop/influence...
Sensor Removal Tools:
Performance Tool O2 Sensor Socket Set (7 Piece Really Nice!): amzn.to/2wsdM41
Tooluxe Oxygen Sensor Socket Wrench and Thread Chaser Set (5 Piece): amzn.to/2vNKYWz
RamPro Oxygen Sensor Socket Wrench Set (3 Piece): amzn.to/2vDyd03
O2 Sensor Flex Head Wrench: amzn.to/2vhQlMf
Performance Tool O2 Sensor Flex Head Wrench: amzn.to/2frPumD
--------------------------
Anti-Seize
Loctite Copper: amzn.to/2vi301P
Permatex Copper: amzn.to/2wsgWoj
Dynatex Industrial Copper: amzn.to/2vDWGCu
Permatex Aluminum: amzn.to/2hJza1s
--------------------------
Dielectric Grease
Heavy Duty Marine Grade (Can with brush): amzn.to/2hIKlqU
Permatex (Tube): amzn.to/2vi6X6B
Max Professional (Spray Can): amzn.to/2vi8FEP
CRC (Spray Can): amzn.to/2frOEGt
--------------------------
O2 Sensors
Bosch: amzn.to/2frw6WP
ACDelco: amzn.to/2fsDAci
Denso: amzn.to/2hJteFk
Delphi: amzn.to/2vhVnrY
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Liked for the simple fact you say y’all !!
Haha nice
And “these ones”
TD-us . . Haha! Same here.
TD-us hey y'all!
What up y'all!!!
Here a tip from a professional, if you're gonna replace it with new sensors any way just cut the wire off and just put a regular socket to remove the old ones
How are you going to torque the new ones?
@@Igor_ZG🤣 thats what I was thinking, you still need to have those sensors sockets
@@Igor_ZG You don't need to. Snug it down then give it an 1/8 to 3/16 turn
@@Igor_ZG Now remember, drjoeset has a tip from a professional.......🧐🤨🤔🫣🤯
Very good video on this topic, one note others may have added but thought I would also, use a hose clamp around the O2 sensor to zero out the flex in the socket. May be the difference between an O2 sensor socket working for you or not.
Try this: O2 sensors don't usually "fail" per se (except in the case of an "open heater circuit") - they get "fouled". They won't handle being dropped or banged around, but they ARE made to withstand extreme temperatures, so take advantage of that property... Use a propane torch on the end of that sucker until it glows cherry red. Monitor the output voltage as you take the tip in and out of the flame (I put them in a vise), and when it starts responding rapidly (instead of sluggishly), you have "cleaned and defouled" it. (Narrow-band sensors generate their own voltage when sufficiently warm). Reinstall, and presto.... I make no guarantees (I've had at least one this didn't work on...it stayed sluggish no matter what), but this has worked for me at least 1/2 dozen times over the years, and if the next step is replacing it anyway, what do you have to lose? FWIW, I have had NO LUCK using this procedure on WIDEBAND sensors... And yes, use anti seize to reinstall.
Something told me to KZhead what that Denso grease was before I installed it. You explained what it is and why it's important perfectly. Thank you so much.
To ease removal of O2 sensors; When engine is hot from driving, operating temp, squirt some PB Blaster or other good penetrating oil at the base where the threads are. Let it set for an hour, then remove. If that doesn't work, heat the area around the base of the sensor with a propane touch if you can or a good heat gun and squirt more Penetrating oil. Let it work a while and try again. I've never had to reheat more than twice.
Thank u my brother I needed this information
Great advice! Have over 117K miles on my Tahoe. Used PB on B1S1 02 while quite warm (too hot to work on), let sit an hour and she came right out with, literally, no fuss- or busted knuckles- at all.
@@larrywatson9400 The CRC "Freeze Off" works well with heat also.
I really like how specific you are when it comes to describing every step and hint thank you you were very helpful.
yeah its great
Believe it or not (!) sometimes it helps to try to tighten a stuck bolt/nut/O2 sensor(?) THEN try to loosen it.
The number one only way that always works to remove a stuck 02 sensor, egt sensors, knox sensors is to have a friend rattle the bung with an air hammer while turning the sensor gently with a wrench. I do this at work every time i get one and it works every time. Obviously you need to be an experienced air hammer operator or be able to use common sense and not ruin the bung, the exhaust or anything else but if you can operate your tools it works.
Or just have your engine run a couple of minutes to heat up the pipe and hoala. Heated metal expands and softens and you can loosen like a girl. Isn't it easy? Just don't mind the heat though. 🤣🤣🤣
Yeah I am trying everything I can
So true.. also sometimes tapping it lightly
It works for me every time
#1 rookie mistake DIY enthusiasts make on an o2 sensor change: removing the sensor from a manifold/header at ambient temperature. Always preheat the sensor bung, either with a torch or by running the engine until the manifold/header is at operating temperature, unless you enjoy torn knuckles & stripped threads.
That's what the auto tech at Auto Zone said when I bought an 02 sensor took kit. He said to heat it up - first.
I just raced my truck for a few minutes they still didn't come out easy
I did that, burned the heck out of my hands, stupid to do it hot!!
My fixer said opposite. He said if you remove O2 sensor when its still hot/warm, it breaks easily even with a little tap
In theory, heat makes things expand So I would tend to think, cooler would be better. 🤯 I'll have to do more research on this.
Great video! Did this once before and got lucky, as I did not know about the dielectric grease or not touching the sensor tip!-John in Texas
What does he mean by pounds?
@@snugglygollo9103 thats the torque to tighten the o2 and thats done with a torque meter in this case its 30 foot pound you will neeed a torque meter in range 10-90 foot pounds
You can heat up the old sensor carefully around its base (threads) where it meets the header or exhaust pipe using an acetylene torch. That will help to back it out safely if it is stuck in there. If you don't have that torch, take your car to a garage and have them do it for you. Coat the sensor liberally with anti-seize being careful not to clog the holes and reinstall. Do scheduled maintenance and that will help avoid this install issue. Have an extra sensor on hand so you have it as they can go out of stock. Good video TY!
I hear them say run car for 1 minute first so maybe that is why?
Great clip mate very thoughtful to think of the people who might buy your car not having trouble with parts removal , awsome tips too good one mate ,cheers
You need a good torque bar and work it really slowly. I did the two lower and it worked out nice and threads were good.👍
Agreed, the prior owner didn’t put anti seize on my Mitsubishi 3000gt vr4 and it was so seized that I had to but aftermarket pre-car delete pipes it actually took the threads with it. Anti seize is definitely your friend.
Thank you!! Finally someone that gets it and likes to keep their threads in place and not ripped out.
Maybe u coulda use heat? Micro torch the o2. While car is hot
Also cool car
I have changed a few of these out over the years and work with turbine engine sensors all the time for the last 30 years. This is a very good tutorial.
Very professionally described. Especially those experienced tips of handling care NOT to touch the tip 5:40. Great heads-up. Thanks.
You are welcome! Thanks for the positive comment!
Thank you for a very thorough break down on how to attack replacing them, particularly all the caveats involved.
Spray stuck/tight sensor(s) thread with PB Blaster, over night, if need be. Helps to easily remove sensor without stripping threads.
Thank you!!
Thanks for such an informative video, ready to tackle on this job fully inspired, didn't know how sensitive these units are, good looking out
Thanks man, you're welcome.
Good advice on many parts,I've been using anti seize for many years on advice from a co- worker.
This was not a click bait, it was actually useful. Thanks!
You're welcome!
Very thorough and useful tips. Thanks.
Thanks for teaching us exactly where grease points are and where not to apply.
Changed mine on 05 Corolla yesterday. Looked to be original….totally cooked and covered w carbon. PB blaster soak on a warm exhaust manifold for 20 min and a crescent wrench and came out easy. Thanks for dielectric grease tip! I’ll add that today.
Great video and it is great that you included the links. I already have bought mine, but that is a nice touch for sure. Your explanation was good even though I would have enjoyed watching the work but probably hard to edit.
+Cheryl Shady Thanks, I figured the info on how to do it was more valuable than 1 minute of changing a sensor. I have a lot of other videos working on stuff. Thx for the positivity!
That’s why I’m all in on KZhead creators. So useful in so many ways. Thanks a bunch for the warnings and proper care on replacing O2 sensors for us folk who need help! I have been using KZhead to replace a lot of thing on my car and it helped a ton. I saved so much time(&mulah) and learned a whole lot without having to go through trail and error.
Yep...KZhead is my Cookbook😊on Anything, Car, Truck, House!!👍💯🦅
Thank you , Sir! Very informative, especially since I've done nothing like this before.
Anytime!
I've only replaced like five of these in my life, and the first three I got out with the special deep split socket, but then I had one that was really stuck and I ended up cracking the special deep split socket. I ended up just taking a hammer and breaking off the end of the old O2 sensor, cutting the wire and using a regular 6-point socket to break it loose. The deep split socket or a wrench works good for installing them.
Did you try a little heat around the outside of where the O2 sensor screws in when you removed the old one? Sometimes a bit of heat from a propane torch or something similar will make a job like that a lot easier. You have to be careful, of course, same as anytime would use a torch. Not to burn yourself, start something on fire or harm any other parts.
I have replaced a lot of 02 sensors and sometimes the 02 sensors are froze to the bung hole threads in the exhaust pipe and removing the old 02 sensor strips out the threads, when that happens you need to take the vehicle to a muffler shop to replace the bad section with a new one, and if it's a catalytic converter that bolts directly to the head then you have to replace the converter.
dude thank you for making this helped so much!
You are welcome! That's exactly why I made this video. Glad I could help out!
Love that very , precise, clear, easy to hear talking...👍
Thx thats what I go for.
Thank you for being so thorough & very informative on important points! 💯👍..I am a female & I work on my own vehicles since I was young w/ older mechanic brother!
Love your straight forward information no nonsense. This will help me be a better mechanic. Thank you very much my friend. Very informative. People like you is what KZhead was really made for. Not these other yuppie nonsense floating about. Take cate.
You don't need no special socket to remove a bad o2 sensor. Just cut the dam old wire off, take a deep socket and hammer it in. If that doesn't work, just break the end off the O2 so you only are left with a nut flush on the pipe. Hammer on a 6 point socket and go to town on that Mfer
I like it but some are saying they save the old upstream one that's still working and use it as a downstream sensor if one of those ever goes bad. Could save you $50+ but that may not be worth the headache.
I buy dielectric grease in a red tube that is pressurized. I just squeeze the little handle on the side and I usually don’t have to touch it afterwards. It has a slide on the outside that increases/ decreases the output flow.
You are not lying! The hardest part is removing the old sensor(s). This is a quality video, for certain.
Very well done. I would add that the silicone dielectric grease *must* be kept away from the business end of the sensor. Silicone is like cyanide to O2 sensors. I do agree with using dielectric grease in the connector, though. The O2 sensor is a high impedance voltage source, and will not do well if any water finds its way inside the connector. (50 years in electronics)
Thanks, finally someone with experience in electronics on here. Yea a little dielectric grease will help in the connector like I've been saying. Definitely install it into the exaust first then put the grease in the connector that way you don't mess up the sensor end.
,,
L
@@rudyzoller3682 Grow Up
I don’t understand what you were saying, can you clarify? You were saying keep it away from the business end of the sensor but then put it on the sensor? Can you explain it a little further please ?
Be careful adding anything in the plug of a o2 sensor, depending on the sensor there is a small oxygen port that supply’s the internals with fresh oxygen that helps it get actuate readings. Other then that I am a big user of dielectric grease on plugs. Great video!
Ee4
Yes I always have a tube of dielectric grease in my kit it's a must have in my opinion.
@@NCpanther01 Ee4 ?? What is that ?
That's the reference port and it's usually where the wires go into the sensor.
No offense but don't offer advice on hi temp electric parts without knowing the science. Never use dielectric grease on anything that exceeds 350 unless it's rated for 500. But still exhaust exceeds that. Furthermore dielectric grease is Non conductive
This is a good video! Never thought about the anti-seize paste, it does get quite hot in that area of the exhaust so good tip bud!!
Great video! Thank you. Will a bad sensor always throw a code? Im having idling problems and i already changed the spark plugs.
Maybe the coils
Very helpful, even though I have a 2007 Mini Cooper. The codes all indicate O2 sensor, so I will replace it, but I will definitely follow your expert suggestions.
Yea, man do it this way!
I'm not a mechanic and have a dumb question. If you're replacing the old O2, would it be possible just to cut the wire off and use a regular impact socket and wrench on it to remove it?
WARNING! Dielectric grease has insulating properties and putting it on the contacts of low power sensors or their fuses can cause the circuit to fail.
Good note. At the opposite end, a friend of mine was pretty surprised to learn that Silicon is conductive.
ik i watched cameron niemela and his bike wouldnt start
@@tahoma6889 I don’t think it is.. after it dries that is👋. NEVERMIND I JUST CHECKED IM RONG YOUR RIGHT - I GOOGLED IT, ‘it’s BOTH a conductor &&& an insul8r.’.. wtf🤨?
yeah it’s true, dielectruc grease is insulator but NOT a conductor, not Yz to get it on any of the connections, but only the plug not touching connections, even after pushing plug together.. silicone is a semiconductor which means it can conduct once in a while, so that’s a risk of a short in plug, therego ergo, nothing should tough connections, & diaelectric grease is less of risk than silicone👋
I have also heard never to use dielectric grease. If the factory don't use it then why should a DIY person use it ? It's a very confusing topic with many points of view. I think one should keep it simple. Remove the old sensor, apply copper anti seize to the threads of the new sensor, install and tighten, clean the car's female socket end with some electrical contact cleaner, then plug it in. The socket has a very good multi strata rubber seal so no water or dust should ever enter. If you have to add dielectric grease, then just add to the outer part of the socket to form an outer cushion.
Thanks for all the tips and being really detailed.
*@**2:28* Yes, COPPER anti seize is very important- it operates with millivolts- and it needs the best ground connection possible. A _heated_ O2 has a ground for the heater circuit and sensor, so no attention to ground is necessary. I had to edit this 4 year old post, another viewer named WhiteCollarRedneck pointed out my previously incorrect post.
+HUBBABUBBA DOOPYDOOP Great points, I didn't even think about getting and keeping a good ground by using anti-seize.
That is the main reason copper anti seize was formulated. It's also advisable to use on spark plugs, too. The other advantageous use of it is for exhaust fasteners (manifold nut & bolts, pipe connections, etc.) The old silver stuff (Molybdenum Disulphide) is terrible at conducting electricity, so it's pretty much unused now, but still good for general use.
+HUBBABUBBA DOOPYDOOP I can never remember which one, copper or silver is used for what purpose. The silver stuff is a lot more common. I would use the copper stuff on high heat nuts and bolts. You are saying to use it on spark plugs too instead of the silver stuff?
Yes. The "silver stuff" contains no Silver. It is basically a slippery mineral (Molybdenum Disulfide) that has very poor conductivity in high heat applications. In comparison- Copper is far superior. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide There are reasons why companies do things. Most reputable O2 & AFR sensors come with Copper now.
+HUBBABUBBA DOOPYDOOP Wow, thanks for the lesson on anti sieze. I know it's not actually silver, but I didn't know that it has Molybdenum in it. They say aluminum on the packaging. Must be just marketing. Yea, I have noticed that the O2 sensors come with the copper verson. Which kind do you like to use with spark plugs?
Some real good and relevant information.. appreciated! However, I wished you'd actually change yours out for us to see.
Thank you for this. Very informative. Probably would have done half of this if I hadn’t watched this first. You rock
You rock!
Great video my 2016 Nissan Altima is throwing 02 codes and thinking about replacing them too see if it fixes them. Hopefully it isn’t my ecu
Replace them and see what happens
Rusted sensor or rusted bolt? Try using Hoppys #9 or military grade bore cleaner on the sensor or bolt. Be patient, soak it for 15 50 20 minutes. Then TIGHTEN the unit until it breaks loose. Then back it out. Be careful. I am 75 years on this planet and with patience this system works!
Great tips! I like PB Blaster and acetone. The acetone thins and carries the oil into the threads.
You definitely saved me from catching a shit show! 2009 pontiac g6 gt 02 sensor. I got the same brand. My replacement I have to splice and crimp to the plastic connector piece. Gonna do it tomorrow morning. Thanks for your very helpful advice!
The don't touch or meddling with the socket part. Big help thanks again!
You're welcome, good luck!
Nice video. I have a 2011 Lancer SE that needs the rear 02 sensor. How do I know if I need a California or Non California emissions sensor, is there a visual clue? From what I've read the Cali and Non Cali sensors are different and have different plugs. Thanks
I used a torch such a map gas to heat the fitting that the O2 screws into, then use the special socket and back out the O2. Use anti-seize compound (sparingly) on the O2 threads before installing the new O2 or the old one. They'll be a lot easier to remove next time.
+Eric S See you didn't even need my tips!
Good info! Riddle me this ; I have a 2000 S10 2.2L. Very well maintained. About 85,000 it threw 2 o2 sensor codes (up and downstream). I replaced them with Bosch o2 sensors since that's what my auto parts store sells. A few months later the codes came back. The store replaced them. A few months later same issue. More than a few techs have told me for some reason they can't figure out G.M. vehicles only like G.M. o2 sensors. (made by N.T.K.) I thought this was CRAZY but replaced them with O.E.M. and its been 5 years and 35,000 miles with no problems. Thoughts?
+Shepperd November There was a mechanic on here that had a ton of experience. He said that Bosch O2 sensors were trash. Look through the comments. You'll find it.
Matt's Shop Thanx. That has not been my experience. I have installed Bosch O2 sensors and Chrysler, Ford, and imports. However, I will agree with you that I prefer either nippondenso or ntk sensors. Cars just seem to perform better with them.
Could be the voltage.
Not sure if it's in here but another quick tip is when you crack it loose don't just unscrew with force but tighten and loosen with ease back and forth all the way until you get it out. Seen a lot of people just unzip them out and screw the thread up.
I love the little ant that crawled across the dielectric grease package. 😀 Thank you very much for the informative video. It was very helpful knowing what tools to get and to not touch the O2 sensor directly. What kind of truck do you have? I have a 2003 Chevy Tracker, 2.5; LT model. I will be replacing the bank 1/sensor 1, (upstream). Do you recommend replacing the downstream at the same time? Thank you 😊
Hey, thanks for the positive comment. I have a 2006 Chevy Silverado 1500 4.8 2wd. I would just replace the ones that are throwing a code. No sense in replacing something that isn't broken.
Thanks, Great Video. I do have a question though. You mentioned that your truck threw a code and you're replacing the 2 upstream sensors. How do you know it's the 2 upstream sensors are bad and not the downstream sensors? I have a 2000 Silverado 1500 and it threw a P0135 code. It's also been throwing a P0442 for a some time now every few weeks and I just keep resetting it. The dummy at the auto parts store sold me a new gas cap and I felt like an idiot for even trying it :-)
Good question. You know which O2 sensors to replace based off of the codes. It tells you exactly which ones are bad. I don't think the downstream ones go bad that often they just monitor the catalytic converters to make sure they are working right.
Heat the bung that it threads into with a propane torch then it should come out. If you aren't trying to save the sensor just cut the wires and put a 22 mm wrench or socket on it you will get a better bite on the flats of the sensor. Less chance of it rounding off.
He didn't say it, but you can rent those removal kits that have those special sockets for the wire to fit through. You don't have to buy them. No need to.
Tip...sometimes the part is only $5-$10 more to buy than to rent. So definitely ask for both prices before making decision.
@@ThePokerStreets916 where do you rent them from? Auto parts store?
@@TheRakuman yes. I've rented tools from autozone before. Most auto parts stores should have them, you can always call and ask before driving there.
this guy killed it, super detailed and spot on, great job!
Like you said those are expensive so just replace the one that needs to be replaced and don't worry about it you will probably get one at the junkyard a good one I know I have I forgot what year your car is but is it really worth it
Thank you! This is great information.
You are welcome! Thanks for this great comment.
Good video, thought it was funny though how you recommended not get dirt on the sensor after you laid the first one directly on the ground
I thought it was funny that you thought it was funny that I laid the first one on the ground.
This guy sounds like Nate Diaz’s long lost twin…😂😂
Thank you very much. Im attempting removal and replace today on 2002 explorer, its 8/19 yikes
Good luck!
I sprayed all four with Freeze-Off . Bank 2 downstream was the worse( passenger side rear). I finally had to used a pipe wrench , positioned my foot on the handle and pushed slowly. Success. 😊
Great information. I am going to work on mine. Thanks.
You're welcome.
I'm glad I watched your video. It helped. I'm getting ready to attempt this in a few weeks with my car. Thanks!
Same here!! Only thing is.. Im really not wanting to buy the tools to remove it!😑uhh
@@wendylucas9628 Me neither, but for my SUV it might save me $300 to buy the tools and do it.
@@joharinichols2652 ok.. Yeah..thats clearly a, "GOTTA GO GET THE TOOL!"😏 $300 IS ALOT
I just replaced the catalytic converters on my 98' expedition and I guess I got lucky because the O2 sensors ( which I had to temporarily remove to do the job ) came out easily !
+joseph bourdeau Yea! You are very lucky some guys have to get them to glow red with a torch, but that's if they are extremely stuck.
I used to work at JC Penney auto center I was the head battery man and must have sold every car I worked on oxygen sensors all 4 at a time to avoid call backs.
FYI If your going to replace the O2 Sensor then cut the pigtail wire at the sensor and use a deep socket to remove the old one.
Exactly! Those O2 sockets will slip. I found that out two bloody knuckles later.
Sometimes I bust the top part of the 02 sensor off and use a short socket/breaker bar to make it easy in tight spots -
@@maxguod If you know it needs to be replaced, it doesn't matter what you do as long as you can get it off. I have used a cut off wheel and that works.
Man up- muscle baby... lol j/k these are a bitch sometimes. Just replaced mine recently and all 5 came out easily.
Make sure the engines warm put the 02 socket on and try to break lose if unsuccessful break off and get a socket to take off
Heating up your exhaust for a couple minutes before trying to remove o2 sensors helps a bit. At least in my experience it has helped.
👌👌👌
Yup change it after a drive just wear welding gloves and it comes out pretty quick
Wd40 no heat needed
Comment from an OLD mechanic/plumber, etc. If you can tap lightly with a hammer on the wrench, pipe or part itself while pulling on the wrench, without damaging the part, sometimes it is all it takes to "jar" the part loose.
It interesting to hear you share that these should be done in pairs. I had one just throw a code and I bought a single one, the one that threw the error. I guess we'll watch and see if the other pops up in a few days or weeks.
I’m about to replace my downstream sensor. Hoping I don’t have to replace them in pairs the one sensor alone was spendy lol. Let me know if you end up having to replace the other one. Thanks
Mine lasted a year, replacing the other one now
I'm curious to know what code was your truck throwing, mine is throwing a po172 and I'm wondering if this is the fix...thanks in advance good video👍
Don't remember the code. It said It was this exact O2 sensor position.
Just wondered: should you use copper or lithium based anti seize on exhaust fittings? Doesn't it risk poisoning the catalytic converter? Or the sensor itself for that matter?
I don't think it matters that much honestly.
I agree on the anti seize and dielectric grease as well very nice tips.
+John Gibson Thanks man. Yea, the anti-seize is really more important than the dielectric grease, but they both help.
John Gibson that is normal to add those. Who is thinking that this tip was just discovered? That stuff anti seize come already on the O2 when its bought. Bull shit wanna be repair video
very well done, you explained everything thoroughly and clearly great youtube presentation
Thanks, great comment!
I had the same problem with it being hard to take it I just cut the old one and put the wrench on there easy and used a breaker bar and it came off easy
I used anti seiz on my Denso. 160k miles later, I couldn't take it out. I had to use a cordless impact wrench to take it out. It was due to excessive speed, the sensor thread melted.
thanks brother, gonna do this with a toyota matrix. love KZhead. Have a good one from the massachusetts hill towns.
Thanks man. Good luck!
I have a 2007 5 cylinders four-door colorado truck that needs two oxygen sensors to install the one on top can I do it with an open-end wrench or do I got to get the proper sensor wrench? and how should it be installed as of how to apply the new one?
Good video I don't know if I missed the question but approximately how long does it take to put on because I'm taking it to a mechanic and he's only charging me $45 and I have my o2 sensor already?
It depends how easy they are to access and how stuck they are. It can take 20 minutes to hours. It just depends on the situation.
My car says post catalyc converter bank 1 to rich and it’s a 4 cylinder. Does post mean downstream or up? I figure it’s the downstream and after catalyc converter
Doesn't matter if you touch the end of the sensor or not, the actual reactive sensor part of it is protected inside of it. So as long as you don't dip it in goop or cake it with crap then it'll be fine. And like the many comments say, heat up the area where the sensor threads into. Whether it's with a torch or running the car for a few minutes it'll help considerably. Also changing just the one causing the code is fine but if you have the bux & like a good running ride then it doesn't hurt to change them all. Work smarter not harder.
+john green I agree with working smarter not harder, but I still think it's best to not touch the sensor. Why touch it? Theres a reson they tell you not to touch it. It's a rather sensitive and expensive part. What happens if a piece of dirt or hair gets down into the sensor's end. My guess is that it would mess it up.
@@MattsShop my new o2 sensor came seized and capped. As I was pulling off the cap the seize tapped the end of the o2 sensor very slightly leaving some seize on the tip. I wiped it off with a clean rag and installed it. Really considering pulling out that new o2 swap it out for another one. Do you think it’ll make a huge difference? Thanks in advance!
Hey, thanks for this, helps us newbies to spannering, and I like the comments about cutting off the wire!
You're welcome. That was the whole point of the video!
excellent tips! thanks for the video!
Just because you get an HO2S lean code does not necessarily mean the sensor is bad. You should definitely test it first. In my case I just hooked up my scanner so I could monitor the data stream in real time as I drive. If the HO2S voltage is fluctuating between 0 and .9 Volts as you drive the thing is working like it should, and your problem is elsewhere, most likely a vacuum leak
Good info! Most people are not able to do this. They don't have a scanner that can monitor this stuff so they just replace them.
Nice, because the codes I have have a small vac leak, that could be awesome if the vac leak is the real issue....tks for that info
Hi Utwo, What tools do you use for scanning etc?
I had a real nice Snap-On that died and I could not afford to replace, then I had a great Auto X-Ray that died and the company went out of business. I currently use an Actron 9660 which is not as good as the previous scanners but one of the few that will do pre OBDII systems. And of course a versatile multi-meter is always handy.
Yea I bet that Snap On scan tool was real nice. The Actron ones are pretty basic aren't they?
Auto Zone offers a free loaner for the sensor sockets. They have a kit that includes 3 of them. At my local Auto Zone, the deposit was $30 + tax (about $33 total), which was 100% refundable when the tool was returned.
+David Monroe Yea, that's where this kit came from.
cheaper at a better deal on ebay...and u own it forebber
cheaper than free ?? hmmm
and the kit is junk. get a map torch and a crescent x6. that sensor will com out in a minute
You can keep the rental tools for 3 months.
hi i watched a vid on a 1998 ranger you replaced the pack did that solve the problem? also i have a 98 4x4 ranger you have a link for the 4x4 vac lines point a to b ?
+Bobby Pennington Yes! It can solve the problem! I had a bad plug too in that vid. I found out later. You need a hose routing diagram??
I have never had any engine problems with my 07 Silverado (I bought it used in 2014). But emission/exhaust codes? OMG! I've replaced both Cat's, multiple 02 sensors, gas cap... Had to have smoke tests done, etc. What's the deal with that?! Anyways...it would've been nice to see you actually replace them.
3.25.2019 Long Beach,CA. A lotta you Do It Yourselfers may blow a Head Gasket if I tell you this, but I will anway : $1,595.00 for the LapTop EScan Elite Software....May be the baddest Generic Scan Tool on the Planet........10 % of what this Jewel will do is show Red- Green Yellow Light failures RESULTS ( just like you driving down the Street & you have Green-Yellow & Red Lights.....Can even drive around the block & it will disolay Catalytic Converter FAILURES from 0 % to 100 % ( Just like when you were in High School...90 - 100 % = Grade "A".....69 % & Below = Poor, then 59% & Below = a "F" Grade. The "Big Dogs" Neighborhood www.automotivetestsolutions.com
EScan Elite LapTop Scanner will allow you to drive around the block & display Pass or Fail Results for your Catalytic Converters ( $1,595.00) If you nut up on that price, take it to a Professioal Shop & letvthen do the Diagnosing before you spend $6,000.00 on Parts Guessing. www.automotivetestsolutions.com Background: Smog Repair Tech. -Southern California
Never never use dielectric grease on the connector. The sender samples out side air and the air is brought in through the connector. Grease will clog the passage. Air is going to sender through the wires and insulation
A tip for breaking out to old sensor. Soak them with wd-40 or liquid wrench or something a couple of times a day for a few days before you change them. The consistent soaking with the heating up and cooling off usually makes a big difference in breaking them out. Also, put an open end wrench on it and wack it with a hammer a few times before trying to break it out.
Agree!! Comment from an OLD mechanic/plumber, etc. If you can tap lightly with a hammer on the wrench, pipe or part itself while pulling on the wrench, without damaging the part, sometimes it is all it takes to "jar" the part loose.
I touch it with my wifes 12 speed vibrator for a few minutes to loosen it ....a rabbit vibrator is good for hard to reach areas
I feel like slow and evenly applied torque would reduce the chances of the hex rounding off.
Do most ls swaps keep the O2 sensors or typically deleted in PCM tuning? i need to know before i start remodeling my exhaust, right now the O2 sensor is poking into firewall and i need to cut off pipe turn it about 90 degrees and reweld but if i dont need it to run properly i will wled the hole shut
Thanks dude I'm fellow countrymen but I live in England having trouble with my Fusion error code POO30 possibly oxygen sensor seeing it's a common fault the car has 90,000 runs well but mileage is the enemy your video is great please send a reply. Many Thanks Bobby S
Search Google and KZhead for that error code. I'm sure someone else has encountered that problem!
I have that same code and has something to do with the heater. Supposedly the fix is replacing the upstream oxygen sensor.
Thanks for the video and tips. Changing the 2 upstream sensors in my 2013 Silverado is my project for next weekend. Even though I use it on all my auto bulbs, I didn't think about the dielectric grease on this connector.
You're welcome. You don't have to put it on the pins if you don't want to, but it helps it seal if you put it on the rubber sealing part of the connector.
Great video. There is a lot of total misinformation out there and mechanics making videos that make working on your car look impossible. You kept it simple and this alone let me locate my O2 sensor. I took my car to a place and was told that you have to take the engine out to replace it. I figured that was a lie and searched KZhead and after your video I looked under the hood and sure enough there it was. Thanks again. You saved me thousands.
Thanks, comments like this are why I keep making videos. I am glad I saved you all that money!
These slime ball auto mechanics is the reason i took a mechanic course and only buy simple cars that i can work on They are so dumb they dont realise that the consumer is on to them and eventually they will go out of business.Especially with the information you can pick up on youtube about you vehicle.
@@76kamikazi what are the "simple" cars?
@@ricomajestic Ford Crown Vic.
Thanks Matt, I'm into this job, learned stuff from you today.
+POPS You're welcome. That's what I like to hear!
POPS I
+Thomas Heil What does that mean?
Awesome. I learned a lot. My 97 cougar 4.6 will NOT pass inspection. All kinds of codes! I'm replacing those and the catalytic converter. next. As far as touching, I never even thought of that. I guess the oil on the fingers? Exelent video 👍
Thanks, If you have a lot of codes, you need to replace the O2 sensors. It will help.
Do not put dielectric grease in the connector - it creates resistance. It's strictly for putting on the rubber boot only to help create seal. The metal connectors must stay clean.
There is low voltage grease which is suppose to be OK. I have not found any in the auto marts I have been to.?
Yep. Dielectric grease will transmit an electric field, but not allow charge to flow.
If you already know your 02 sensors are shot and already have the new ones,you can just cut the old cables and use a large enough deep well socket,no special socket needed. You can use a regular wrench to put the new 02 sensor in,once you finally get the impossibly tight 02 sensor out. A cheap 02 split socket for removing the 02 sensor will flex,slipping on the shoulder of the 02. Making a home made socket by noching an old socket will also result in slipping.
Yea, someone else mentioned this too. It is a great idea if the split sockets keep slipping and flexing. Although, it might not be the sensor that's the problem and once you cut the old one you no longer have a spare.
You can add a pipe clamp to keep it from slipping if you are trying to remove it to get it out of the way for example and don't want to cut the cord
Walter Sopchak Could you please explain how you do that? I cannot fathom how a pipe clamp can keep one from slipping. I sadly sold my socket designed for removing those...I still dont know what I was thinking. Generally, you always test the 02 sensor anyways before cutting the cord. Using a simple multimeter can tell you if it is bad. Testing the wire to the unit can be done with a 12volt headlight from a garden tractor. Use the bulb holder and solder wires with alligator clips to the ends of the connectors. You dont need a fancy oscilloscope to test an 02 sensor. if it doesnt heat up, its dead. if it showes open circuit, its dead, yes its that simple.
Matt's Shop You would test the 02 sensor BEFORE cutting the cord. It is so simple to test them. An open ground,dead. if it doesnt heat up, dead, use a 12volt garden tractor bulb holder with alligator wires to test the wires to the 02 sensor first. 90 percent of 02 failures is corroded wires. They cannot be repaired, ever. The wires are special, like a toaster wire. I never chop wires on anything until I know its dead.
RC Hobbyist Extreme I saw it on a KZhead video.. I think I searched stuck o2 sensor
Great video and very helpful! Thank you!