Ford Quick Tips #81: Removing Rusted Stuck Oxygen Sensors the Easy Way!
In this video we go over a few methods for removing stuck and rusted in oxygen sensors every time without hassle.
These are the Parts and Tools I recommend:
High Intensity Map Torch-
amzn.to/2keOCBr
Quality Rust Penetrant-
amzn.to/2j91pEy
Oxygen Sensor Sockets:
Full Height-
amzn.to/2ySK1cB
Low Profile-
amzn.to/2kKoy0a
Oxygen Sensor Thread Chase(if needed)-
amzn.to/2B93CeC
My Company BSG Automotive offers Auto Repair services in the greater Chicagoland area.
Website:
www.bsgautomotive.com
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/ bsgautomotive
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Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user and BSG Automotive (hereinafter “FordTechMakuloco”) makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. FordTechMakuloco shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by FordTechMakuloco and therefore, FordTechMakuloco does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge FordTechMakuloco or anyone affiliated with FordTechMakuloco, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law.
These are the Parts and Tools I recommend: High Intensity Map Torch- amzn.to/2keOCBr Quality Rust Penetrant- amzn.to/2j91pEy Oxygen Sensor Sockets: Full Height- amzn.to/2ySK1cB Low Profile- amzn.to/2kKoy0a Oxygen Sensor Thread Chase(if needed)- amzn.to/2B93CeC
I was just going to post the Thread Chaser. Makes the new one go in like butter.
I would only recommend to use a 6 point wrench to decrease any chance of stripping the O2 sensor.
I would normally agree that is why my sockets are 6 point. In this situation though a 12 point is fine, in 15 years working the salt belt it has never rounded a one. Plus in tight areas like where most o2 sensors are you want the flexibility of a 12 point to be able to position it easier in the small space you have for the swing.
FordTechMakuloco have you seen or used the bolt buster tool?, It is used for stuff like this
No
Nice to see someone actually showing what a miserable and delicate chore this is. Way too many people posting videos for O2 sensors where they've already removed it and make it sound super easy.
Wow, it worked perfectly. I'd been trying to break the sensor loose for 3 days. Pb blaster, liquid wrench, wd40. No luck, . I was a little scared to put a torch to it but I watched your video and followed your directions. Amazing, after about two attempts it finally broke loose. Then I did the back and forth with the wrench, spaying a little blaster at a time. Needless to say it worked great. Thanks so much for posting this video. Really helped me a lot. I got a lot accomplish today thanks to your video. 👍👍
Use brake fluid as your lube!
What the old timers used to call “putting the English on it”. Sometime you need technique, not brute force. Most have to break something and spend money to learn that lesson.
I watched about a dozen videos on removing oxygen sensors, and this was the BEST VIDEO I found. Excellent narration, camera work, and technique.
Outstanding camera angle with easy to follow instructions. Well done sir.
I anti-seize ALL exhaust part threads (especially manifold studs) because dry threads beg for moisture intrusion during heat cycles and subsequent corrosion. I've removed parts I anti-seized thirty years ago with no problem.
The new factory sensors come with some anti seize applied to the treads already.
First class lesson with great footage. Any rookie mistakes could very well turn this job into a nightmare. Attention to the details is what sets you apart.
The night before removal soak with PB Blaster. That has always worked for me especially without a lift using jack stands.
Did it, worked great. Heat, box wrench and hammer. Unfortunately I hit my fingers a couple times. Sensors was 24 years old and I tried many times to get it out. Following your instructions I got it out in under 20 minutes
You have provided an excellent tutorial. Thank you. Spraying it with PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or other rust penetrent after you have it broke loose will help. Tapping a seized sensor can help the penetrating oil seep in. Multiple heat cycles are a big help to break the rust bond. I suggest using a 6 point box wrench instead of a 12 point. Less chance of rounding off the nut.
You obviously have never removed an oxygen sensor in a tight place. There is a reason why I do what I do. Oh and BTW it is much harder to round the hex at this size so even with a 12 point you are ok.
@FordTechMakuloco yes I have, and it's a bitch. Yes, sometimes the 6 point just doesn't work.
Thanks for the tips, got my O2 sensor out by being patient and methodical. Used a combination of penetrating fluid, map gas torch, and a snipe on the end of the wrench. Maintained slow removal and penetrating fluid after the initial breaking of the threads.
Dude you have the lifted over you head... I'm laying down on my back with 30mph winds lol
Yeah I know but I worked for many years on my back too and it works.
HAHHA same here :D almost orcane is here 50-60km wind :D
Try doing this on your back when it's -30° on your back in Michigan
@@stevedonelson5822 Steve that's on a good day in the warm snow.
@John Hasket that's all in the past now. I live in Cali where everyday is a warm day lol
I tried penetrant and 4 different specialized wrenches with extensions- all that did was give me sore hands and start to round the bolt... then I finally decided to give a propane torch a go. Heated it for around a minute on full blast then slapped on a normal wrench and it turned like butter!!! This was on an upstream one rather than a downstream, but it worked just the same!
wish me luck brother I'm bitting the bullet this week 🤞🏻 all else fails 😡🤬🪓🔨🪚
Fantastic. I had almost rounded the sensor until watching this. After using penetrant a couple of times, cutting the wires on the sensor and then putting the round 22mm wrench on, it popped right out. Thanks a lot man!!
Big believer in using heat as well! When it's got a nice glow I spray it again with the penetrant. It's usually not flammable but you got to be careful. I swear it'll wick in like solder and flux at that point, plus I think it thermal shocks it too to help it break free. Good vid though! Just be patient is the whole trick I think though too.
Thanks for posting. I was in a bind to get these done before winter in Ohio and only had small windows of time with outside temps high enough for the torch to burn. For guys laying on your back in the gravel or on the cold ground, it can be done. Forget the special sockets. Cut the wires. Torch, lube, 7/8 wrench. Repeat. I did mine on an 06 5.4 4x4 for about 6 cycles before it cracked. On the 4x4's, there is 0 turn radius and the job is so much more difficult. You can barely get the wrench angled at all for sensor 1's but after a few geometry refreshers, it is possible.
Great advise! Patience is the key. Slow and steady wins the race! Thanks so much for sharing.
This way looks like it will work but takes a lot of time. From working at an exhaust shop a few years ago in Michigan the way we would do it is this way. Using an O2 sensor socket that wont stretch open (Blue Point YA9375B or the Schley 93750A are good options) break it lose with no heat or oil using a long 1/2 ratchet or breaker bar. If the threads are cross threaded after removal use an actual 18x1.5mm tap clean the bung hole. install with just a touch of copper anti-seize on the threads and hand tighten with an open end wrench as tight as you would an oil drain plug. Those sockets I listed were great, I never had an issue with them rounding the nut part of the sensor or stretching open even with a cheater bar. we would also not use heat because the thread from the sensor would get pulled off and and stay with the bung. Either way a 18x1.5 tap will clean it out fine.
werealeyes heating it up doesn’t just make it easier to remove from the exhaust, it helps prevent breaking anything from applying too much stress on the parts. If all you’re doing is replacing a bad sensor the last thing you want it to snap the threads off the pipe. Especially with guys like me who are doing this off their back in their driveway. Lol
@@austincollier14 , yep, that "removing it whilst on the ground with your arms above your head" adds a new level of "difficulty" to the job. Most of the guys in these vids have the vehicle on a lift. Much easier to leverage the application of force. And whilst I'm not the "pro mechanic" and there are those "exceptions", the point of applying heat is to expand the metals. We know that metals expand when heated and contract when cooled. I've witnessed time and again countless fasteners/sensors etc., being successfully removed simply by applying the right amount of heat.
Had a similar experience with an EGR Tube on an '04 Explorer. Ended up using the preheat holes on a cutting torch to heat the gland nut at the Exhaust Manifold. It "Squawked" all the way off! Unreal!
your a real pro real good instructor with out any attitude like some of these yahoos that post,thanks again.
Hi, I just wanted to thank you for your tips on not damaging the threads. I pulled mine today and was very careful; threads intact. U da Man! Best, John
Great video, I've been there numerous times, I have also found once it starts to move after heating use a enough force to retighten and untighten with some penetrating oil, to break up the rust in the threads. When refitting use a specific high temp anti seize grease or similar (not the cheap stuff) if not fitted already to the sensor.
Thank you sir, I would have messed getting o2 sensor off big time. Heat is a wonderful technique. Thank you again for your time and effort doing these videos. Brilliant job. Best Regards Colin
I rarely leave a comment on KZhead, i would like to let you know, your video was so helpful and right on the money, heating and DW40 is the way, take your time and it will come off, i even stripped mine and still works, again thanks for sharing and keep up the good work!.
Thank you FordTechMakuloco I used your advice on a 2005 Chevy pickup O2 sensor worked great.
Another great video Brian. I bought the O2 sensor for the wrong bank last year and will be installing both sensors for my 05 Escape in the spring when the weather is warmer. The timing for this video was perfect.
Even better, I was planning on changing mine (on a Jeep ZJ) today, but ran out of time so sometime this week. Unfortunately, this was the exact plan I was going to go for, and didn't add anything extra to what I already know. Working on cars in the salt belt you learn to deal with stuck everything.
Good advice, I had the same problem on a 1997 Maxima, thought I could get it off with a wrench, but had to get it torched at a local mechanic shop and once it got beet red hot, loosen it and tighten it back on before totally removing it so you don’t damage the weakened threads.
I love the PB Blaster for this application
Old comment but Liquid Wrench! Project farm tested penetrating oils. Best was making your own mix of 50/50 atf/acetone but liquid wrench was a close second. Pb was like 5th.
This is how you do it in my experience. Nice video! Too many people rush and break or strip threads. I'll start soaking with penetrant days ahead and repeat the following days if I think I'm gonna have a problem, then start heating with mapp gas.
step number 1: obtain a lift
I'm doing O2 on the ground today, no problems so far.
Nicholas Graham getting to old for the driveway
Stop crying. You don't need a damn lift for everything. Use some cardboard and a couple of cinder blocks under the front wheels, you'll have enough space to do whatever. Step 1 get yourself a map gas torch.
@@bishop5166 Step 1 shut up
@@bishop5166 some of these guys are ancient
I will be doing this in about two weeks, your videos are so helpful. Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge. 👍👍
Thanks for this video. Worked like a charm. Great walk through and great tips. Made this so much easier.
Thanks for the video! Helped give me confidence to get this done. Came out real easy only after a couple times I heated it up!
Best 02 removal video. Very thorough covered all steps and options.
changed my 3.5 ecoboost bank 1 last week. sprayed, wrenched, MAPP gas the whole works, wouldn't budge and gave up after a couple hours. Sprayed it for overnight with PB blaster. Next day, gave it a go cold and hit the wrench with a hammer a few times. It turned out by hand like magic. Couldn't believe it
This was a great tip. It saved me hours of time and headache. Thanks a lot.
Very informative video, thank you for the helpful tips. You made my sensor changes easier for sure.
Want to say thank you for all the great videos you post here. Thank you for your service in the Marine Corps and wishing you and your family a safe and blessed Christmas .
Thank you, I really appreciate the no nonsense approach. Straight to the point!!!!
This video is very helpful.... I just changed the O@ sensors on my E350 XLT Van and the one sensor on the driver side of the engine was not breaking loose. Took a torch and just heated the flange that the sensor was screwed onto just a little bit and with a little bit of effort, the sensor broke loose. OVERALL it was very easy to change the sensors out. I got lucky because I have heard that sometimes these sensors are an outright BEAR to get them changed out.
Much love for this advice brother!
this was an outstanding job , it doesnt get any better than this
GR8T vantage point for the CAM 👍😎 I'm just imagining that one in a inaccessible location. You wonder why there isn't a different attachment method. It just madness. Thank you for such a great example. Cheers! ❤
Thanks so much, I have a Ford Focus and I went out and got an O2 sensor wrench/socket and was surprised it wouldn't budge despite torquing on it with my 1/2 ratchet. Hesitated to use penetrating oil since it is a sensor, so decided to consult YT and found your video. I will be trying the heat now after watching. Thanks!
Excellent content as always! Thanks
Excellent job as always Brian!
Great step by step. Really appreciate the time and knowledge you gave.. thank you..
Thanks! Very thorough. Luckily I didn't have to use the heat, but a lot of leverage. The tip about moving it back and forth and being patient really got it to come out well. (99 Altima - downstream sensor)
Thank you for your technique, it works very well. Saved me a lot of trouble and time. Hope you continue to publish your good work Thank You again
Hey Brian, I did the same with the torch n penetrating oil make it easy without damaging the treads . Great video 💪🏽
thanks so much! did it the way you showed in the video and the bad O2 in my 2006 honda accord came right out. Just as a safety measure make sure you wear gloves or let things cool off for about an hour I made the mistake of grabbing the box end side of the wrench after 15minutes and it was still piping hot. I should mention that it all just took me 10 minutes it doesn't take long at all.
Re: stripping threads with impact: "Trust me. I've had experience..." lol. Nuff said. :D
Thank you. This procedure worked perfectly. Excellent !
20 years original Motorcraft equipment,no too shabby ...Built Ford Tough💪 good for another 20
Best advice on breaking loose my rusty 1992 GMC Oxygen sensor. WD40 wouldn't cut it. Propane torch worked wonders first time. Save me time and money doing it myself. Subbed.
Thanks. And Merry Christmas!
"Trust me I'm experienced" Part snaps in half! LOL! Just kidding, but I think we have all thought that until.....love his channel, dudes great, I trust him and that's priceless!
He has Mac tools. Usually means he was a tech. I thought it until i saw that lol. That and the Mopar penetrant. Best guess he worked in a local Chrysler Jeep Dealer
I prefer to remove the entire body of the O2 with an air hammer/chisel (after spraying with penetrant). That allows the use of a 6-point socket, which reduces the chance of rounding the hex. All the great advice you've provided follows that step, as necessary. The vibration from the air hammer sometimes works the penetrant in enough to make it easier. The body doesn't break off easily.
Hey buddy, I replaced one of the excess O2 sensors on my 12 f150. Wanted to say a big thanks for the videos. You have aided in my truck getting a new transfer case electric motor, thermostat, fuel level switch,, fixing coolant leaks (bad O rings), and now the O2 sensor. Thanks again!
The map gas and a 22mm wrench did the trick.
You sir have patients as I was watching this all I wanted to do was to force that wrench. So this was helpful and enlightening I have found that I am not this guy!!!
Great advice as usual. Thanks and merry Christmas.
This video is so well put, I HAD to subscribe!
Just did the 2 up streams on my 03 cvpi vic. 15 min on 1, 5hrs on the other 🤬🤬🤬. patience and heat. Ur best friends for this one.
I've gotten a few tough ones out by cutting the whole body of the sensor off with a hacksaw or Sawsall. You make the cut right down near the hex nut. Then heat and lube it and use a regular 6 point socket and a long breaker bar. This technique also works on things like power steering lines and brake hose ends. You cut the line off and then you can put a regular 6 point socket on the hex nut and use a breaker bar to turn it. In really tight spaces use just a hacksaw blade and wear a glove. The soft aluminum lines are very easy to cut. I ALWAYS use this method exclusively to remove power steering lines from power steering racks and pumps. After removal be sure to wash out the holes with some spray to remove any metal chips left over from cutting the line.
Just the video I needed I got one replaced myself the rest were rusted and wires were spliced and reconnected where the previous owner tried to replace and couldn't break them loose I can't wait to see how it runs with all new ones!
soak in pb blaster overnight....hit with torch. works every time..another good video brian.
Letting penetrant soak is the hard part for me.
@@FordTechMakuloco 04 F150 5.4 3V just changed Bank 2 Driver side sensor 2 on outlet of convertor. Texton 47749 7/8 socket fit perfect on downstream Bank2. Just enough room to glide 3/8 ratchet with a "socket and extension as a make shift cheater bar" on end of ratchet. Soaked in PB blaster about 7 applications in 20hour period threaded out by hand the moment it broke free; no torch needed. Thanks for all your videos Sir! It was the original 02 sensor rusted in goooood. Fixed P0430 code!
Brian thanks again as always for a great video
Rather than cutting the wires, I get out my Sawzall and cut off the sensor leaving the hex part. A regular 1/2" drive socket with a breaker bar will remove it.
don't use too much torque, it's a bad idea, use heat like he did or if you don't have a torch start your car and let get a little hot (that's how I got mine out) It would not budge when the car was cold.
@@johnames6430 mlm
Good idea and u can squirt some lube through the sensor
That was an awesome explanation and demonstration. Thank you!
You could also 'sacrifice' a box end wrench by cutting a slot in it to fit over the sensor wires. Also wrap 'wick' around the sensor where the threads are and soak it for as long as possible. Keep it soaked with a penatrating fluid. The thick seam of men's underwear will make a good wick. This way you can remove the sensor to remove the built up carbon that might be misleading the computer. Thank you for the video.
Great video with great explaining and camera angle.
Well, back to my cold ass wet driveway I go!
I've been using Mapp gas since the 70's heats it red but never blows thru .. THE BEST!!!
Nicely done. Lack of patience has messed me up a few times over the years. There are times when you can use an ultrasonic cleaner to "repair" an oxygen sensor. If you have a cleaner, give it a try if you are on a budget. I have not tried it but there are a few videos that show it working.
Excellent Video on replacing the Oxygen sensors. Thanks.
Bravo.... Nice tip - cutting the tail off. I like it. 👍
Thanks so much for taking the time to shoot this, it was extremely helpful to this novice. I didn’t need heat, but being patient, tapping with a hammer, and your technique of back, and forth was key to getting this damn thing out.
first time even seeing a 02 sensor thank you
Great video - it saved me some serious grief and dollars. On my two upstream sensor I took my 06 F150 to Tuffy's Auto Repair in Toledo, Ohio and had them replaced there. They did it for $40.00 each. The garage had a lift, which was everything because I would of had to do the job laying on my back in the drive wqy and could not get to the left front O2 sensor connector. On the downstream side the left O2 sensor gave me a little bit of trouble but came out okay. The right sensor was a different story. On my first go around with it it bound up on me. Instead of doing it Brian's way, I muscled the sensor and it locked up ( I watched this video after I did this). Before I would do any more damage to the sensor I took my truck to Tuff's to see if they could do the job, since they did the two upstream ones - price was a bit higher - $80.00. They put the truck on the rack and heated up the sensor and tried giving the sensor a good pull. In a couple of minutes they came back to me and said that it was not going to budged and that would have to destroy the sensor and the catalytic converter which was going to cost some serious dollars (1500 or so). They asked me if I wanted them to continue. I said no. They did not charge me for trying and not doing any work per say. From Tuffys I went to my local Ford Dealer and made an appointment to have the sensor removed $97.50 without any extra). This was scheduled for tomorrow, September 24, 2018. After watching this video and a couple of other videos I decided I owed it to myself to try removing this sensor one more time. I prepared myself to tackle this in a couple of different ways. On my 06 F150 the heat shield divides the space in half between the converter and the transmission, making getting suitable tools in place difficult. The first go around I used the "crow foot socket with the flex handle" and started to round a couple hex points. The tools I got together for this time where: 22 MM deep well split socket with the 1" hex head (1/4" drive). 22 MM combination wrench. 1 " combination wrench. Pipe wrench. Large vise grip. Cheater pipe. Portable torch. Tread chaser. WD40 Rust Breaker. I did not cut the wires as Brian indicates in the video, reason being is if I was unsuccessful in getting the sensor out I was still going to have to get my truck to the Ford Dealer. My truck is fairly high off the ground, but I jacked it up giving myself as much height as I felt comfortable with. After crawling under the truck. I put the deep well socket in place. Once this is in place there is no room to put a 1/4" drive breaker bar or ratchet in place. There is just enough room to get the 1" combination wrench box end on. The only amount of room to work the wrench is from about half way up along the side of the transmission to the bottom of the floor pan. Working with Brian's methodology, since the sensor was already bound up in the removal direction. I took the wrench to the tightening direction, pulling a little at a time. I soaked in as much penetrating oil as I could. I started working the wrench/ socket between tightening and loosening the sensor a small bit at a time. For at least 15 - 20 minutes it felt like I wasn't going anywhere with it so I was going through my thoughts as to what to try next, utilizing the pipe wrench or the vise grips and cheater on the socket doing what I was presently doing with the wrench. As I continued with my motions the tightening and loosening sequence started to show some movement. I shot some more oil at the sensor and continued with what I was doing For the next 45 minutes or so I continued this until I was able to back the sensor out of it's threads. The unit would not come out and for a bit of more time I kept trying to bring it all the way out, no success. I was beginning to feel that I stripped the threads. I finally decided to angle the unit a bit in different position to where the unit would bite a bit, once I got a bite,, I loosened the the unit some more with the 22MM wrench (socket is removed) and was finally able to back the sensor out. I inserted the thread chaser in the hole and chased the threads, cleaning them up. Once the threads were chased in the converter the threads felt not to be stripped. I inserted the new sensor, tightened it down and plugged it in. Success and done. The sensor that I removed had a metal buildup ring around it that would not let it get past the threads in the converter. It gives a person the illusion that the threads are stripped. I did this cold without any torch heat. I installed Bosch Oxygen Sensors rather than Motorcraft/ Ford. Bosch invented the first oxygen sensors.
I personally would've stuck with OEM on the 02 sensors. Just FYI the downstream 02 sensors are not necessary for the drivability of the vehicle, there are just for emissions. They meter the air after the cat to make sure it's doing its job right.
It probably doesn't matter, dollars to donuts says Bosch makes the sensors for Ford as they do for a lot of other manufacturers.
Thanks, I've been working on my Xterra O2's and I used an impact wrench and it totally stripped out the threads. Good news was I had a rethread that did the job. I won't do that again. Thanks for the helpful tips
I'm about to replace my pickups Oxygen sensors and this video seemed to make it easier hope I can replace them with no problems..
Thanks your explanation along WITH video footage it's so great....wow. thank YOU
Thank you. This video prevented me from having to replace my exhaust pipe.
Thanks for mentioning not to use an impact... that was a thought I had. Great video. Thanks
Good tips... Always good to know these things
thanks man really help me... I will try it I bought a truck GMC and I'm being trying almost a week and find a video thank you.
Lmao. Just found this after a 2 day ordeal. Ended up cutting the wire. Torching the bung for about 90 seconds. Then hitting it with a Milwaukee 12v impact. Smoooooth.
This was on my 14 eco that had bs for access to the upstream..
Amazing job. I admire your patience, knowledge and experience. Your customers are very lucky.
Yep, experience is the best teacher. I learned the hard way. No impact gun or open end wrench.
Thanks - another great tip video
Great video. I have to change mine out. I'm gonna try it. Your gonna save me allot of bs
Hey your videos are great. Very clear and nice explanations of what you are doing and why. I was going crazy last night with my lower O2 sensor, gave up and watched your video, did what you said this morning and it was easy peasy. Thanks!
Right on man! Really great video. You saved me from making a mess of things. As you say “the easy way!”
good tips on not destroying the threaded housing. I plan on doing this job after I recieve my OBD reader to see if the sensor requires replacement.
Good work loved the tips. Best part was the sound effect of the grunting when you said tap it don't be like pulling going uuuuuuuhhhhuh 😹.
Welldone Brian, good info!
Excellent presentation 👏
I did this on a 2006 Toyota Sienna. Used open side of 22 mm long wrench (closed side seemed to be stripping). Used PB Blaster and then WD40 and the WD40 seemed to work better. Kept working it back and forth. It was seized on there real good. Got it off. Took my time. Took lots of breaks and used a lot of solvent. Worked it back and forth. The threads of the sensor were stripped when I got done but the threads on the female side were OK. There was some metal stuck to the threads on the female side. Applied generous amount of gunk from the Denso new sensor. Hand threaded then used open wrench. Cleared the codes. So far so good. The beer tastes extra good now.
Thanks man, really helped me make the job easy!
Nice job