My LS Porsche 911 Was About To BLOW UP So I Attempted A RISKY DIY Engine Fix!
Click my link and use my discount code “Legit23” (automatically applied) to get 15% off your order: bit.ly/Legit_Carly. Offer valid until January 15, 2024.
You can use Carly’s scanner and the free version of the app with any car that has an OBD2 port. Visit carly.com to check if advanced features, like coding or manufacturer-level diagnostics, will work with your car. Some features are only available with their yearly license.
In this video, I find a catastrophic engine issue with my Porsche 911! It was about to blow so I attempted a risky DIY Fix. Remember to always check the oil pressure on questionable project cars!
Check out Improved Racing for their LS oil baffle, windage tray, oil pickup tube clamp and more!
www.improvedracing.com/?gclid...
Try out my new Gigantic Dry Towel! You'll be able to dry your entire car in a couple of minutes! One swipe, and it's Dry! Clay mitts are back in stock as well!
bit.ly/3PBvU5T
Get 25% off all Amsoil products, including their famous synthetic engine oil! Sign up as one of my preferred customers here! www.amsoil.com/offers/pc/?zo=... Your first order pays for the membership!
Use Coupon Code LEGIT For 10% off Sonic Tools! bit.ly/3iNDtGU
Try a sample tool kit for only $60! bit.ly/3CSBqcB
Everything car-related I recommend from Amazon! www.amazon.com/shop/legitstre...
Click my link and use my discount code “Legit23” (automatically applied) to get 15% off your order: bit.ly/Legit_Carly.
I read the dry eraser board
Get with Dr Tune Em All and he can get that thing dialed in pretty close quickly doing it remotely.
How good does carly work with your ML? I would like to know how good it is with it before I commit to buying it. I have a 1999 ML350.
I ordered my carly scanner for chevy and unfortunately upon deluvery to my house someone stole package off my porch
read your board, very nice... LOL I love your contents for all types of vehicles, it keeps me interested. I think you should do another diesel vehicle.
What’s funny is I’m not a Porsche enthusiast nor an LS swap enthusiast but I’m digging this build. Really appreciate the way Alex explains things along the way and keeps an upbeat attitude!
Thanks brother!
Agree. What makes this channel great is his explanations- almost an educational channel.
Yep, he’s very good an explaining the how and why 👍🏻
agree 1200%
@@BillBraskySOBwhat's a turn of phrase?
Hey guys I wasn't clear about what I thought the issues could be with the factory Porsche oil pressure sensor. What I meant was that they failed often and this was the original sensor. Considering the hacked-up wiring I thought there was a gauge reading issue. I said translation issues and that wasn't really the right term and didn't make a lot of sense. Thanks for watching!
Great content... thanks for keeping it real
You meant what I knew 😂😂😂
Love your positivity! It helps me through rough days. Plus, I learn a lot from you.
I thought you were expecting imperial oil pressure inside the engine but the factory gauge only reads metric oil pressure...
32:15 I found it :)
Bouncing off the rev limiter in a pushrod V8 doesn't help. Engine was probably fine until you let your buddy Drive it!
That has nothing to do with the bottom end of the engine
More Porsche LS please sir…. Love this car!!!
Good thing about this channel is Alex gets it done in one video, not stringing viewer out for weeks with multiple videos on the same job.
FYI the torque+angle method is ONLY FOR NEW BOLTS. This is why "rebuilt" LS engines seem to spin bearings more often than they should, tq+angle with used bolts overtightens them quite a bit. You can verify this by marking a factory bolt, loosening, then tq+angle and see it go 45-90deg past the old mark. I use 65lbs for inner main bolts, 55lbs for outer main, 18lbs for sides, 51lbs for gen4 rods and 45lbs for gen3 rods. Also when upgrading to ARP rod bolts, you must either use the same torque spec OR have the rod resized. Increased torque WILL decrease clearances on the top/bottom by making it oval.
Came to mention the same about the arp rod bolts. Real easy to destroy the concentricity of the big end. Common issue I thought for sure you'd have heard about.
Not always true. Depends on the bolts and how they're made
Said the same thing 😂
"Tears of Oil" Sounds like a love story about a mechanic...
Alex, I have the utmost respect for the way you are so transparent about everything you do and show your thought process as you go along. Fantastic video as always.
Alex, if you don’t already have one in the shop, I highly suggest having an eye wash station. Engine oil, or any other automotive fluid can be extremely dangerous for your eyes. You may not notice immediately but can develop infection later on.
I agree and he spent 90% of this episode without eye protection. I have a long time mechanic friend who lost his left eye from a impact gun. He hit the trigger and a spec of metal flew out of gun motor straight into his eye. Disfigured him and more.
I had one of my technicians bring me a slave cylinder once telling me it was seized. Without thinking, I squeezed that cylinder to check, and it did feel seized so I squeezed harder and it freed injecting dirty, rust filled brake fluid into my eye. We didn't have an eye wash station, and I didn't have safeties on. Got infected even after hospital flushed it forever. Ended all ok in the end, but I have worn safeties since.
Shoulda coulda woulda is not good advice after you have an accident, especially when it’s your EYES! Protect them!
Especially with that much brake cleaner, it's mostly methanol or acetone which will strip several layers off your cornea. I've heard from my mom just how painful it can be.
The brake clean sanitizes the eye so you don't get the infection. The only down side is the unbelievable pain.
Kudos to the camera man/woman for all of the standing around and commitment to a quality, enthusiastic video!
Alex you a mechanical font of knowledge, “torque to angle bolts”???? What?? Amazing!!!!
Alex is one of the best KZheadrs when it comes to clearly explaining the problem, the probable cause, and the recommended fix... and then doing an excellent repair! The big plus with an LSC video is that Alex is so personable and has a great sense of humor-- entertainment with your education! Hey Alex... Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and your family!
Would love to see you take this to a track and see how it does now that it shouldn’t blow up like Hoovies.
it would handle like Amish horse and wagon
why do you say that the original f6 weights pretty much the same as the ls1 if not a little heavier @@bisser6969
@@bisser6969not if the suspension is set up properly. Rear compression on the rear shocks would need to be slowed just so it doesn’t roll in the corners. 🤷🏽♂️
@@sexycummins yes that can be done but you have 150-200 pounds weight difference and engine will be further back and much, much higher. stage 3 porches performance kit will be way better option in terms of preserving the car weight distribution, this thing will overseer crazy. 25k USD is lots of money to drop on car like this. Will be a nightmare to keep it going if even possible. Best of luck guys. Hope video will pay for the car or you will end up with money pit, i have done it before with 300ZX TT, i know. 🤣
bizzer u dont know wtf youre talkin about. U dont know the the corvette aluminum engine is 42lbs lighter than the original m96 flat 6 this car came with. I wouldnt choose a v8, but u should be sure before runnin your mouth like your nissan engine
This guy may be the most knowledgeable and experienced high-end mechanic on KZhead. He's really great to watch!
40:32 that vrp supercharger looking fine 🥰
This was one of the best videos yet. I was of building my first performance SBC in 1975. I was able to find a 1970 LT1 that I pulled out of a '70 Corvette. I'm surprised at how I knew the steps along the way before you got there. I also remember all the little tricks we would do because we didn't have many of the things that are available today. Here's a shout-out to Errol Meadows who lived in Everett, Washington. I'm sure he is long gone by now, but he was an incredibly creative builder. He showed me a set of solid silver rod and main bearings he built for a 1965, 375 HP, Rochester FI motor. He had machined a mold for pouring the melted silver dollars. It was a very interesting process, to say the least. He built a lot of drag and sprint motors. That was a time where all the best builders were innovators. I did a lot of head work for him. I came up with a real breakthrough in SBC performance heads for him. I'm running out of time to tell 'the rest of the story.' (There's a reference for some old-timers!) Great job on the videos, with this one in particular.
For polishing the crank like you did, use a flexible ruler next time. It's wider so you can wrap it around the sandpaper completely giving you more consistent pressure across the surface since it's wider than a shoe string.
Cool!
I think you mean a sewing measuring tape, about 3’ long. That’s a good idea.
@@tomfurie2996 yes, exactly. 👌
I found this channel randomly when you had first got the space van. And then had to binge a lot of your older videos. I like the fact that there’s no BS no drama and really informative. Definitely one of my favourite channels. Thank you Alex you do great work.
Thanks Kyle!
I feel you buddy I did the exact same thing when I came across his channel a few months ago . Great guy!
The whiteboard easter egg was a nice touch. Loving this particular build!
White board in the back with the to-do list is a must!
I read your Porsche to do list. I love how informative your videos are! Now that I have an LS engine in my Yukon xl, I believe this is good stuff to know for any future repairs.
Love the dry erase board!
Just found the channel and am enjoying the content,clear,well edited no crazy hype or drama,solid mechanical work( would have broken out the micrometer to check concentrity of rod journals and what bearings to order). Really had me when you related previous work for CTA in bus barn,have friends who worked CTA and am rebuilding trucks on south side- just installed new cab on a Volvo after frame straightened(insurance refused to total but should have). Will watch more as time allows.
It’s really great how this repair was explained in complete tear down and rebuild. Awesome Job!!! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Saw your Easter egg on the whiteboard! Good job changing the bearings prior to failure and upgrading the baffling in the pan!
Great video, love the whiteboard. Gotta say that your channel is my favorite of all auto youtubers. Great job delivering super informative and entertaining content. You have earned your success and hope it keeps growing.
Wow, thanks!
Agreed!!!!
Long time subscriber, love the way you explain why and what your doing. Currently have an LS demonstrating the same issues. Love the channel!
Rolling bearing technique is genius !!
When polishing on the crank with sandpaper, it is best to have the oil holes straight down and when cleaning it, put the spray nozzle tube of the brake cleaner can high up inside the crank to insure no grit is left inside. It doesn't take much to ruin a new bearing.
It’s so obvious how much effort you put into these videos. You n Max are killing it with the editing.
I usually skip to the end on videos like this. But this series has me watching the whole thing.
U need to remove the barbell from thw oil bypass and replace it with aftermarket metal one will increase you oil flow by ALOT
Great catch on the rod bearings, simple cheap fix, well done.
Simple if you have a car lift and engine rebuild experience
For some people an oil change is a big job, it’s all relative.
@@Chris-hw4mq u can do that also on jackstands.. not as comfortable but doable
I last did any serious work on car engines 45 years ago when I was young - nothing as fancy as your 'stable', just VW air-cooled Beetles and vans :-) Watching your videos has brought back the enormous pleasure and satisfaction of working through issues and making them better. Thank you!
I love when you throughly explain things you do and why you do them and give us all this information I learn something new everytime I watch your videos. Thank you!
Not a huge surprise that an LS swapp into a 911 (or any modified from stock) without baffles put in the oil pan had spun rod bearings. With the increased acceleration the oil will be pushed to the back of the oil pan. Add to it a persistent overheat situation and it was amazing the rod journal's weren't toast. Dodged a huge bullet. Hmmm.... maybe name the car Kugel ausweichen (German for dodge bullet).
Probably the one swap where a GTO or Trailblazer front-sump pan would really shine.
You’re the best Alex. Oh and by the way, my LS powered 280k mile 2002 Silverado stock never torn down 5.3 vortec idles at around 30psi hot idle, 40 cold idle, 50-60psi highway cruising My other LS powered vehicle is a 2002 Corvette Z06 with 51k miles- hot idle is around 35-40psi, cold idle around 50-55psi, highway cruising it stays between 50-60psi, but it will peg the oil pressure gauge when you step on it no doubt. Never opened stock 5.7 LS6 motor. Basically an LS1 like your Porsche with different heads/valvetrain/intake as you already know. You are absolutely right though about the variation in oil pressures between “good running LS motors” some of my buddies have super low oil pressure and have no issues, some have higher pressure like my cars. I’m not sure why that is to be honest. I have noticed it though in the LS world, oil pressures are anywhere from 5psi hot idle to 40psi hot idle 🤷🏽♂️
It has to be the big swing in acceptable bearing tolerance from the factory. Thanks for posting up your results.
Truly an amazing rod and main bearing video. Quite a bit explained and very much appreciated. This video took the mystery out of bearings for a lot of us. I definitely thank you very much for this video. Definitely a favorite.
Great tutorial Alex & outstanding job!!
theres a lot of spots an ls can bleed off oil pressure, lower pressure at idle is the first sign. Look up diagram of oil passages on an ls, pick up tube oring hardens and squares off with age, the dumbell plug at the back of the engine with two orings does the same thing, and the plate that holds the camshaft in also is a critical part of sealing the pressurized oil passages. That plate has a large sealing area that flattens out and hardens with age. Those things plus engine tolerances contribute to oil pressure variations
It's really common for people to not replace the cam retainer plate, but it's only $15-20. All the factory plates I've pulled are flat as a pancake with no chance to reuse.
Yes you are speaking of internal oil leaks that you can not see. The Mazda Miata drift guy has a list of required items that need replacing on every LS, I think you listed some of those.
Also faulty oil pressure sensors on the mid-late 2000's 5.3. My 2008 Avalanche showed low oil pressure and I feared the engine was toast. I replaced the pressure sensor and the screen that sits down in the intake and oil pressure came back to what I would consider normal.
I'd take it easy until you get through those two oil changes with filters too. My lingering concern would be where else those shavings got pumped? Cam bearings? Rocker arms? Lifters? So IMO yup, I'd take it easy until the metal shavings found in the oil go away. Might even take three oil changes. Three? Yup. Far less expensive than replacing the engine 🙂
I'm curious what the cam bearings look like. I dunno about you but that oil pressure still seams a little low to me.
They get pumped to the filter. It's only if the filter gets filled does it bypass. This is why I always disable the bypass and run the older filters w/o internal bypass or the 2015 LT-spec with the much higher bypass pressure. I'd rather have less oil than lapping compound go thru the engine.
@@hydrocarbon8272A very visual reference for sure, if anyone's ever lapped valves 🙂
a few years back I tired this on a 2004 grand caravan didn’t work out cuz I didn’t know you had to measure and use different bearings and the people that had videos up at the time where questionable seeing you do it gives me confidence lol
i did a subaru engine = got a IAG alloy sump set - sump baffles pick up and windage tray ! = $1.100 australian dollars ! - worth it for a $15,k engine . nice porsche i like the color and writing like the early ones ! thanks alex .
Very cool and informative. I’ve done this before on various engines and one thing I would do was loosen all the mains so the crank can settle just a little bit. Makes the top bearings easier to spin out. Super glad your crank was fine! I love that LS Porsche.
I love it too!! Perfect fix for a 996
This is becoming to be one of my favorite channels due to the knowledge and information. We just need daily uploads.
Thanks! Oh man daily uploads like this one would be impossible. Each video has at least 40 hours of labor between the actual job, filming and editing.
@@LegitStreetCarswe agree on the editing. It’s amazing how much time it takes to edit even a 5 minute video. But, we still can’t thank you enough for giving us the encouragement to start up our channel after watching you diligently for over a year.
Agree with comment. I’ve always wondered about those plastic gauges. Now I know.
Loved the polishing method
i REALLY enjoy the technical detail your experience as a mechanic really shines in your content.
I enjoy your videos and have seen you build many engines here, but for some reason, this episode for me was the best. I guess you can always tear everything down and use new parts. This was about being smart, putting in the work and getting great results. Great job.
Thanks! I use lots of used parts too. The DeLorean restoration was done with many used parts.
This build has been a blast to watch, love your content and all your projects! Been watching your channel for a few months now, wish I would have found it sooner, my new favorite!
Loving this build! I’ve learned so much so far on this one. Great Job Alex. I was nervous on the bearings lol love how the exhaust comes on and off so easily 👌🏼
I don't even have a car but I love watching your video's! Very interesting, entertaining and true craftsmanship. Thanks Alex and Max!
The work that went into building that exhaust really paid off, looks and sounds great.
Alex, it’s incredible how simple you make this look … it looks so easy the way you work yourself through these intricate processes! I for sure learned a lot from this video and I love how you explain every step you are going to do! Loved the video all the way 👍👏🏻👏🏻😀
Love the details in explaining your work.
You’re killing it, Alex! I love this build- a GM V8 in a German icon sports car. Thank you for the hours and hours of top-notch entertainment.
I love the LS swap and all the mods that were done to this car. But that motor won't last if it doesn't have good oil pressure!
It's amazing today people can own such an amazing aluminium block in their car. That were no so long ago unobtainable racing engines.
@FransvandenBergeMuziekschuur Aluminum blocks have been common for multiple decades.
with this type of power? @@johnfox3845
Glad this was one video and not dragged out. Very fun watching and enjoying your explanations. 😀
Yes I read the instructions on the white board behind you. Love your channel.
Just finished watching this playlist and can’t wait for an update on the Porsche.
the factory sometimes put different thickness main bearing to get better more consistent tolerances on the main journal, the journals are not always perfectly in line. If you disassemble a lot of stock core ls engine you will come across this
Love this car and the LS power plant. Want to see the finished tuned version, should sound even more incredible. Need to build a custom air intake that utilizes the side air ducts on the body.
I definitely learned something from this video. I always believed once a bearing spun the engine seized and a total rebuild was needed. Inserting the new upper main journal bearing was a revelation also. Quite an educational video for me. Well done.
Saw the white board comment! Lol Your step by steps are so detailed and not drawn out. Helps keeps my attention. Thank you Alex.
Love this car. Awesome content on channel. I dig the quick and dirty repair on the bearings too. After seeing your oil pressure after the repair, I'd bet those cam bearings are wiped too. Would love to see you tear that thing down and get it built back right before giving it tune and ripping on it.
Nice to do list lol!!! Love watching your videos. Especially the transam ones as I just bought a 4th gen firebird
I really like these tutorial-style video's with lots of wrenching! Learned a lot again, thanks. Keep up the great work, love you guys!
Throughly enjoy your EduTainment (educational and entertaining) videos. When I work on my older 745i BMW, I also talk to my parts. With lubrication being very important for every vehicle, I've been using Bestline Racing NanoLube engine oil treatment in addition to very regular oil changes. It supposed to dramatically reduce friction between metal parts and I've seen a small bump in mpg. With an older car, I could use a magic additive.
You needed to check the clearance on the rod bearings with the arp bolts if thats what you planned to run. Checking them with the two different fasteners could yield a difference in clearance on its own.
Yes, it is important to not change the bolt tension from when the rod was machined. ARP bolts should match the tension of the stock bolts. This is admittedly hard to do when stock bolts are TTY and ARP are torque only.
When putting a mechanical baffled oil pan , with a quart more of oil? It ensures your engine against burning up rings and valves. That's what happens to all of the 351 Cleveland engines on those De Tomaso cars , with either sudden acceleration or quick turns .😮
The Porsche to do list behind you was a nice touch 😂
Excellent job on the engine. I love your videos and all your work.
Your doing a great job at getting number 1 done on the Porsche To Do List. Gave me a good laugh. Wonder how many people noticed it.
Very satisfying episode, Alex! So happy to see the bearings were able to be serviced before catastrophe ensued! About the whiteboard list at 26:43. I did items 2-4 but "fix everything" seems like an awfully big job.
Same
That hadn't occurred to me until I saw the engine. Facing the wrong way, the LS oil pan is now closer to an old Chrysler layout, where the lowest part of the sump is in the front to make room for the rear mounted steering parts. Under hard acceleration, the Mopars would oil starve which made them timebombs at the drag strip. This Porsche probably has this problem, even worse since it might be quicker than those old Chryslers. Old gearheads have said that you can add baffles but the problem never really goes away because physics.
Not to name drop other KZheadrs but Hoovie's LS swapped Porsche had oil starved issued that were blamed on sump location, and Tony Angelo mentioned it on his LS swap, and he went with a front oil sump pan.
bingo!
I’ve done that rolling the bearings in before. That works well most of the time.
Alex, Awesome job with the rod bearings. Thank you for all the work you put into producing & editing your videos. Some of your fixes, as on the rod bearings, are showing that there is always more than one way to skin a tedious job! Keep up the best car channel on KZhead! Joe
Despite the engine problems that exhaust sounds wicked!!!
I think all of us appreciate the details and all the troubles you face with these unique projects you take on.
You got me with the "to do" list! Have a great weekend!
Amazing work man! Those 996 were/are/will always be My favorite style of Porsches and you made it even better now !!(LS swapped and running super great, just needs a tune) , keep it up and let's see what numbers she give after a Dyno tune!💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
I had a 2001 911 Carrera, blew the original engine, and put a brand new LS crate motor in it. I wish I had this video series then. My exhaust was not good, and I think we could have done better with the wiring. I also think that Renogade hybrids has come a long way. When we did it we did not have accurate documentation and it was a lot of time figuring it out. I am interested in seeing what he does with the engine lid. I did not hack mine as bad as this one, but it was never really 100%. The car was scary fast and fun.
I'm commenting as mandated by the Porsche todo list. Love your videos. You are the man. ❤🎉
I used an improved racing baffle to cure oil starvation on a LS1 powered sedan (track days.) Looks great, should do the trick!
4. Yes I did read it. ... Many thanks for your excellent narratrive.
I look forward to these videos all week! Have a great weekend LSC team!
Love this car…hope to see much more content on the 911 LS
I am never going to use any of this info, but it is soooooo interesting to watch. Your vids are awesome, very well done! Great stuff!
Alex, loved watching you swap out the bearings and measuring all. Also liked how you explained all that you were doing. Keep up the good work on the 911 LS swap, and improving what you find wrong on car, All in All a great buy for what you got.
Alex, Another great video. Hey, change out your exhaust mounting bolts to M8 X 1.25 studs. Then you can keep the oil pan bolted and make the exhaust even easier to remove.
Doesn’t have to remove it now 🤷🏽♂️ removing those 2 bolts won’t hurt anything and you’d still have to remove nuts.
But that exhaust is the whole problem. The design is heating the oil and thinning it. Oil pan is incased in exhaust piping.
Good LegitStreetCars Saturday Morning Folks!
Great episode, I’ve never seen this job done before. This 911 is a brilliant project, wasnt sure about the engine at first but coming round to it. Wheels would go if it were mine… body lines and colour are perfect though!
Cylinder detonation (pinging) can cause rod bearings to fail prematurely as well. Might be hard to hear knocking and pinging under load with the engine in the back like that. Doubt this thing was tuned properly when they put it together
Really surprised to see you using the ARP bolts without resizing the rods. I've seen several new builds spin rod bearings because guys skipped out on that step. Obviously resizing isn't practical for an in chassis refresh so would have been better to stick with stock bolts. Love the build though!
Great job, you take your time and work space stays clean. Your ahead of the type that I see on a daily: they just put it together and run it. Apparently they have some kind of luck on there side cause it happens, alot!! I have to put it back better than when I took it apart and alot of the time that takes time.... I've learned a lot from you over the yrs and appreciate your videos Just subbed. Again
cool sanding/polishing job
I wish my girlfriend loved me as much as Alex loves Mercedes sunroof grease.
Let's start an LS pressure thread. List your type of LS, mileage and oil pressure. Thanks!
I have the lq9 vortec max. Mine sits around 20. And 40 cruising.
4.8 Vortec with 272k miles. I usually have around 50-55psi at cold start, 35-40 at idle, 70-80 under acceleration.
Lm7 45 psi cold. 60 on acceleration 30 hot
40 psi cold idle, 20 hot idle, 40+ above 2000rpm stock 1998 Ls1 130k miles
I read the white board! 😂
You are a very knowledgeable person Glad to be subbed
Love the Porsche To Do List on the board. Love the video Alex!!!!