How to Spray POR 15, the best Rust Preventative system Ever!
Apply POR-15 with a HVLP spray gun, which is my favorite rust preventative coating! Subscribe for more how-to's, or if you like cars, like me. I'm using a Devilbiss FinishLine 4, as my HVLP gun (High Volume Low Pressure). I'm also using the Devilbiss DeKups paint cup system. Below are the products I used in the video, all found on my Amazon shopping page. Ask questions, if you're unsure! Have fun!
NEW for 2022, spraying POR 15 with Accelerator to increase drying times;
• Part 3 of 4, Frame Bra...
Here's a link to the POR 15 six pack I mentioned in the video... www.amazon.com/dp/B00J2VULQ6?...
POR 15 Starter Pack;
www.amazon.com/dp/B077J66P27?...
POR 15 Cleaner Degreaser and Metal Prep Kit (Steps 1 and 2)
www.amazon.com/dp/B00KPXJVL6?...
POR 15 Solvent and Thinner for Spraying or cleaning
www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5943BY?...
POR 15 Dry Time Accelerator - Reduces dry time by up to 50%
www.amazon.com/dp/B01HH1I7O0?...
DeVilbiss FinishLine 4 Gun with 1.5mm tip and Adapter Cups
www.amazon.com/dp/B0086H8BD2?...
DeVilbiss Disposable Cups
www.amazon.com/dp/B0086H8BD2?...
NEW! FMG MERCHANDISE available! Here's the online store for shirts (pick a color), and face masks, (Grey, Black, or Red) fmgmerch.threadless.com/
The ultimate rust preventive system for permanent corrosion protection. Shields metal in just 3 easy steps, clean it, prep it, and coat it. Farm, industrial, marine commercial, and construction industries all use POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating to protect expensive and valuable equipment against rust, abrasion, and even graffiti. POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating also has excellent “surface tolerance”, which means it works very well on porous surfaces, such as wood, fiberglass, concrete, and bricks. Try some for yourself!
Automotive - chassis, doors, floors, trunk areas, suspension, engines & fuel tanks
Industrial - heavy equipment, truck components, trailers, fuel storage, rebar, steel forms, concrete, storm grates, transformers, wastewater management
Marine - decks, bilges, hulls, steam pipes, chain lockers, masts
Home - seal cracks in basements and foundations, garage floors, roofs, HVAC pipes, beams, home appliances
Also excellent for sealing and repairing fiberglass.
For your paint booth, EZ sheet can be found at Summit Racing, www.summitracing.com/parts/cd...
Enjoy, and ask questions by leaving a comment below... Good luck with your project!
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#Howtomask #HowtoSprayPaint #POR15
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I'd like to do the entire underneath of my Ram truck with it, problem is a Canadian Tire up here in Canada, it cost $80 a quart. Where can I get it at the best price?
@@billballard9685 Dannngg that's a lot. But, a quart here is around $60... so, not too far off. Must be the current COVID surcharge making the costs go up? Still worth it, in my opinion. Good luck!
Thanks for your quick reply Monty, I guess they're not too far apart. Maybe if I could do the whole underneath in 2 quarts, it would be doable. And you say there wouldn't really be anything better for rust proofing?
@@billballard9685 Good question, Bill. There may be other products out there that are better, for one reason or another... cheaper, easier to clean, last longer, who knows. This is purely from my experience. There might be some comparison videos out there? Good luck!
Hi Mike, thanks for the great video on POR 15. I will put your info to use on my project. I was waiting for you to clean the measuring cup for another go.
Ha ha. Thanks... I actually kept the paint in the gun, cup attached, until I sprayed the second coat. But, I did remove the front cap and nozzle to clean immediately after the first coat. Works great! I'm about to do the same thing on my transmission tunnel patch panels. Good luck!
Great video, I will be watching this again when I’m ready to undercoat my truck.
Thanks Lucas... I'll be re-shooting, pun intended, this video in the next few weeks. So, stay tuned for Rev 2.0
Hey, I appreciate all the details in your video. Very helpful. Thanks for sharing the knowledge.
Welcome! There's a newer way... POR15 came out with a dry time Accelerator, which I use in this video; kzhead.info/sun/bJqIqpSJhpNseGw/bejne.html Have fun!
I used POR-15 on a 2 pc. full floor pan I ordered from Year One on my `67 Chevelle in 1995, and it still looks like it did when we finished it. Great product!! Thanks for another well done informative video!
Thanks Ray, glad you liked it. But, more importantly, what a great testimony to the durability of POR15!
I was looking for a good video on POR15 and found a channel that doesnt try to explain everything and teaches the way I like best. Also the sound quality on the video is so noticeably better than so many others.
Thanks, I think? I assume you're referring to my video? If so, much appreciated. My audio has improved since this video too, as I now wear a mic. Thanks!
The por-15 products are phenomenal and are definitely in a league of their own.
Thanks CC, I agree! Sprays great too!
Love the content. Keep it up men, sooner or later your channel is going to explode !
Thanks! Much Appreciated.
This helped me out so much. Thanks man 👌
Great to hear! Thanks for the comment.
Thank you, this was super helpful!
Welcome! Glad it was helpful.
POR-15 is the best stuff ever! It's like powder coat in a can! I have been using it for years and I love it!
Great analogy! Powder Coat in a can... agreed! Thanks for the testimony... I'm about to use it again on some transmission tunnel patch panels. Love it!
Do we need to sandblast rust before applying ? The Canadian distributor said I should or else it won't work ?
Great information. looking to do the underside of a pickup.
Awesome! Glad I could help.
To speed up the curing, you can use the POR-15 Dry Time Accelerator. It will cut the dry time in half. Also Marine Clean is now called POR-15 Cleaner Degreaser and Metal Ready is now called POR-15 Metal Prep
Awesome! Thanks for the update on product names... I wish I had that Accelerator when I made this video. Thanks for dropping a comment, love your product!
Heads up... I just re-shot this video, and used the accelerator. Check it out, when you can... kzhead.info/sun/bJqIqpSJhpNseGw/bejne.html Love your stuff!
If you to use raptor tintable would you recommend the adhesion promoter or the raptor primer?
Wish I had bought some of the time accelerometer instead of the solvent! For some reason I thought it’d dry too quickly 🙄.
I use a 1.7 nozzel on my primer gun without diluting it and it sprays great. Awesome video
Thanks Davis... I just did another video with Spraying POR15, but with their Accelerator. It tacked up super fast, as compared to normal. Here it is... kzhead.info/sun/bJqIqpSJhpNseGw/bejne.html
Am I the only one who feels like the most important thing taken from this is Mike's margarita recipe? 🤣 Thanks for the video man, I'm about to rehab a pickup flatbed, and this gave me a solid starting point.
Ha! Thanks J! Making me thirsty... not sure why? Just be sure to drink BEFORE spraying, makes it more entertaining. Ha, ha... thanks for the comment!
Thanks Mike good info
Thanks Bill!
Your GTO is badass ! Cool video
Thanks Troy!
Nice video ..being new to por15 ..I did my truck frame
Awesome! Great to hear it... thanks for the comment.
thanks for the great vid. anything wrong with using the por 15's marine cleaner and metal prep ?
Nope. Prep and ready is the same as metal prep. Go for it!
Great video and thanks for the instructions on spraying P.O.R. (it's an acronym for Paint Over Rust) 15. Curious where you shooting basic POR15 rust treatment or using their enamel product? Thanks again for the video.
Thanks Audry, yeah it's the standard product. I haven't tried the enamel, yet. Have fun!
I used a harbor frieght gun and have been using POR 15 for the last 8 yrs spraying a fleet when doing frame repair or replacing frame. At work we did not mix out paint guns with the POR 15 . I have sprayed this without any thinning with good success. At work we have just poured it out of the can and put the lid back on and still had good product 6 Mos later.
Good stuff... thanks for sharing!
I’m using a can of por15 that I opened and used barley anything in 2011 and just found it. Still good as new.
Yeah man, you answered the question about how to spray this stuff! Plus it looks great. I just bought a 2006 Jeep Wrangler TJ for my son. I plan to repaint thr exterior, but I also want to take care of the under giblets. It has lived its whole life here in Colorado. Although CO uses a lot of magnesium chloride, which is horrible for vehicles, Colorado also has a very dry climate. The former can be rinsed off with regular undercarriage washes at the car wash. If you do that, the dry climate keeps your undercarriage in relatively good shape. But after 17 years, the undercarriage has some spots that need attention before the pitting runs away. Project Farm convinced me that POR-15 is legit. You convinced me it can look great out of a gun! Now to get busy removing the existing rust! Then we gotta clean out and apply Fluid Film inside the frame as much as possible. i want this TJ to last until my grandchildren drive it!
Awesome story... yeah, if you apply POR15 correctly, you're gonna love it! Be sure to review my second iteration of this video, where I add a much needed accelerator. kzhead.info/sun/bJqIqpSJhpNseGw/bejne.html Have fun!
I love POR15, a lot of people complain about it, but most of those people try to just literally paint it over rust without using the prep system first. The subframe of my 72 Nova was POR15 prepped, then coated in POR15, top coated with Jegs brand chassis paint, and I painted the engine using a POR15 Chevy orange kit. Getting ready to spray a pickup frame with it, and found this video.. thank you.. subscribed.
Awesome! Thanks for your testimony... yeah, I did my frame with a foam brush. That was painful... then, I learned how to spray it. It'll go on soooo easy now... welcome to the team! See ya!
How much did you use for that pickup frame trying to figure out how much to buy. Thanks
Por stands for paint over rust
You can store POR 15 in a glass mason jar. I’ve done it for years. Just clean the sealing edge good before installing the lid.
Love it! Thanks for the tip!
Yes, mason jars are the best. Unlike cans, there is zero expansion with glass storage, in regard to temp, and humidity cycling. One thing I do after closing the jar lids is to briefly turn the jar upside down, so it coats and seals the interior. I just used some POR 15 out of a jar that I've had sitting around since 2009. Had to put a heat gun on the lid for a minute, but it came right off with a big set of channel locks. Went on and dried like it did over a decade ago. It rarely lasts this long if stored in the can.
Nice job! Very informative, thank you!
Thanks Travis, glad to see it helped.
Hello, I have the same can of por15 and am wondering if it is safe to use on a smoker/barbeque? The rust is only on the exterior of the smoker, would it be toxic to use on something such as a smoker barbeque?
Great Question! I have noooo idea. Please ask POR15 if it'll handle the heat. Let us know how it goes!
Another great and informative video, Mike! I too did not know you could spray POR 15. Curious how your gun cleaned up? Think I'll be using an old purple HF unit for this...lol!
Thanks John! Surprisingly my gun cleaned up fine... that's even leaving it in the gun for over three hours to paint the second coat. (I did clean the air cap, in between coats) I used the POR 15 solvent. Definitely use your "primer gun" just in case. Ha, ha... thanks for the comment!
thanks for the vid. i'm about to use my HVLP Paasche siphon spraygun to paint a crossmember and the motor bay and my engine most likely using POR-15 of different colors. The Auto paint shop sold me some reducer and said it should work fine. Do you think it would be the same reduction (5%) as the solvent? and for the motor, do you think I would have to use the prep solutions since I just got the motor back from the machine shop after it was acid washed? GOod informative video!
Hey Joey, congrats on your project, sounds fun... As for the reducer, your paint shop has a lot more painting experience than I do, so you should ask them about the reducer amount. My guess is yes, it would be no more than 5%. For the block, If I'm not mistaken, the acid wash is to remove grease, etc... not necessarily for "etching", so I would use the same process recommended by POR-15. Clean it again and use the Metal Prep. Good luck!
"Prep & Ready " is now called "METAL PREP" Thanks for the video... I'm about to coat the inside of a steel boat that has extensive rust in some areas.
Thanks Michael, agreed. Check out my latest version of this video, as I use their accelerator. kzhead.info/sun/bJqIqpSJhpNseGw/bejne.html Good luck on your project!
Great training video for POR15, thanks! Can you follow the same procedure if you are spraying over the underbody that is mostly covered by the factory undercoating, but you want to seal it and prevent rust?
Thanks, David! Good question.. In my opinion, probably not the best idea. POR15 is designed to stick to metal directly. I'm afraid the old undercoating will have too much oil in it, for the POR 15 to last. To double check, I'd contact POR15 and ask what they'd recommend. Good luck, and thanks for the comment.
It's a little different,there's a 2 step prep work process before you actually start spraying the frame,there's videos on the process...
Thanks for the video. If I am doing the frame do I need to use the solvents and the etching chemicals or can I just paint it as is
Do you want the paint to stick? Then yes, the surface must be grease/dirt free, and etched with the acid. (The acid also converts any rust, and stops it from spreading) Have fun!
Would love to see a video on how you did your frame. What the best way to clean it since there's so much surface area?
Joe, too funny... a video on how I did my frame would be a $hit show. I actually did it by hand, grease remover, metal prep, etc... then hand painted it with POR 15, with a paint brush. That was painful. Now, if I were to do it again... I would ship that frame to a powder coater. I know that's not in everyone's budget, so in the realm of this video's topic, I would de-grease several times, use metal prep, with a sponge, probably a few times. Then spray it. But, you'd need to cover EVERYTHING you don't want POR15 on, cuz it'll be permanent. Hope that helps.
Thanks for the response back. I have been binge watching your videos and love them. I have learned a lot. Anyway u could do a video on carb adjust on a eldelbrock or tranny kickdown install?
@@joeterhaar9171 Joe, not sure if I responded to this one... unfortunately, I'm not a carb expert, nor do I have an automatic transmission. Sorry I couldn't help with that! See ya!
Hi Enrique I just got my Project car. It's a 1966 Pontiac GTO. It had a/c but the last ower took it off.can you make a Video on how to intstall an a/c so i can install one on my. Thank you..
Congrats on your new project. Unfortunately, I don't have any plans to video A/C installation. It should be relatively straight forward. The hard part is finding someone to fill the refrigerant. I believe the old style uses R12, which is illegal in California. I switched to the system sold by Vintage Air, which uses R114. I hope that helps!
New to Por 15 but saw it 15 years ago,, after using it 1 time in November 2020 on a 1982 Camaro Z/28 rebuild i can say this stuff is amazing, great video and be VERY VERY carefull ,,,,,,,, if you open the can make real sure there is ZERO POR 15 around the can top or lid or when its sealed up to use another time its ALLMOST impossible to get the lid back off. This is something other than paint,,its an indestructable coating that demands user respect. Watch this Video and Take not on what he says as its very real and once you start to use this product you will notice its insanely good. LIKE NOTHING BEFORE,, BEST BET USE SMALL CANS in 250ml so when you finish the job its game over with that can. You allmost have to drill a hole in the can to use it after its been used first time.
Thanks Steve! What a great testimonial! Agreed about storage, it's difficult. Think of it as the most insane epoxy you've ever used. What ever it gets on, including the lid of it's own can, it'll be permanent. Some tricks I've heard of include, drilling a hole in the top of the lid, and screw in a machine screw, so you can un screw that at will... other tricks include vacuum sealing the can, or put the material in a plastic container. But, my favorite is to buy the tiny cans, and toss em when done... ha, ha... Thanks again!
I used por15 for years. No question it's good stuff. These days I've switched to Fluid Film. It's just quicker and easier to apply.
Great testimonial, and thanks for the heads up on Fluid Film, will check it out.
Great video
Thanks James!
Great product for the rover car i have
Awesome! Thanks for the comment!
I just used this on some brackets for a resto. I reduced to 20% because the can I have says 5-20. Then sprayed out if a 1.3 tip at 30 psi and when I tell you this stuff layed on slick I mean SLICK! Looked like water with 0 wind. No orange peel at all. Give it a try! Cheers
Awesome Brent! New cans must have new instructions... I'll check it out, and play around with it. Thanks for the great comment!
Great info on spraying POR 15 it is amazing product but always Protect you self because it harden with moisture so your Eyes, Nasal Passage, Lungs and Skin what ever this stuff gets on it stays on.
Thanks Ben! Totally agree... it sticks to everything.
Is there any risk of the por 12 flaking in the motor? I’m getting ready to start a 69 Firebird project and came across your channel during research. The 400 motor I’m going to rebuild had timing cover/water pump rusted thru so I’m interested in rust prevention… I’m pretty sure I will be doing a block up rebuild and look forward to watching your content. (Seems Pontiac information is a lot harder to find than I thought when I got the car).
Great question... yes, there is risk, as that's not what POR 15 was designed for. :) That said, the way to prevent internal oxidation is to not use water. Sounds crazy, right? Well, it's possible. I use EVANS coolant. It's expensive, but does not use water, so it won't rust, and it won't create steam to blow out your hoses. Here's a link www.amazon.com/dp/B00TPVI2TQ?ref=exp_fastmontysgarage_dp_vv_d It's even better to use on a new build, because you can use it over and over again, and never have to flush it out. All that said, yes, use POR 15 on the exposed surface that you might see when you pop the hood. Mine still looks amazing. Shoot me an email, and I can send you a current pick. Let me know if you have any questions, and welcome to the channel!
Great video thank you. Is there another way to spray por15, if someone doesn't have compressor and paint gun? Thank you
Thanks... great question. I honestly do not know? I'd recommend reaching out to POR15. BTW, here's my latest POR video, where I go through the compressor set up in more detail... should you want to go down that path. kzhead.info/sun/bJqIqpSJhpNseGw/bejne.html Thanks for the comment!
I also have a 1969 Pontiac GTO, one problem I'm having......I upgraded to HEI distributor which has a TACH connect. However, the HEI does not send the signal as a points distributor ???? I can get the original hood to work correctly, it only vibrates? I tried these are market conversion Tach Adapters. that does work. Did you have this problem, If so how did you solve it?? Thanks, Scott
Good question... it probably depends on the HEI unit. I have a Davis Unified HEI distributor, which works fine with my tach. Maybe it's a bad connection? Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
Ahh they have hi temp awesome nothing like a gloss black FE.good info
Thanks! Yeah, I'm addicted to Gloss Black, ha, ha... thanks!
@@FastMonty when you did your undercarriage did you do a frame off that's what it looked like in the picture. I have a Titan capspray HVLP how much product do you think it would take to do a 65 Thunderbird about 17 feet long
@@ihave35cents95 Yeah, it was frame off... BUT, I used a paint brush. ha, ha.... that was long before I knew I could used an HVLP gun. I'm guessing you'd need 2 quarts, at the most.
@@FastMonty thanks but doing it with a brush would probably be more protective
Lol. Nice vid dude. Good tips. Thx!!!
Thanks!
Nice work, I like POR15. Drill a hole in top of can for pouring, use a good size fine thread bolt as a plug. If brushing, just hold the brush agains the hole and wet it, dont use a tray etc. Screw it in, screw it out, save that POR15 its super $$. About $80 a liter/quart here in Canada in 2020. Stay gold.
Nice tip! Thanks for sharing!
I was going to spray a tube frame project I’m working on but then I remembered how long this stuff takes to flash for the 2nd coat, seems like it wastes a lot that way, plus I don’t like cleaning the gun until I’m done or switching paints. Glad I saw this vid tho.
I hear you... you should see my second version of this video, POR15 now has an accelerator. First coat dried in 10 minutes. Check this out; studio.kzhead.info96Oz0QOa6E4/edit
I would highly recommend a tyvek suit with hood or coveralls. Most of us will be crawling under the vehicle and bumping into wet paint. It is nasty stuff, and you also need to lay a dropcloth. It will not come off...imagine spraying thinned JB weld!
Steve, great point! I agree it totally depends on the size of your project... and yes. it is nasty stuff, and it will permanently glue stuff together! Thanks for adding a fantastic suggestion.
Dont forget your mask !!! That stuff is attracted to water I cant believe he isnt wearing a mask for his demo
If you want to live to see tomorrow put your mask on
Hey Mike, how'd this application of POR hold up on the waterpump plate? You had it apart a year after this but I didn't see in your videos between the intake install and prep rebuild how it turned out. This is a novel place to use it and I think very appealing if it worked ok, thanks!
Hey William, great question. It did start to peel in the center of the plate, so I removed the paint all the way up to the gasketed surface. The gasketed area, and the metal still exposed to air, are fantastic. Not sure if it was my application, or the hot water that caused the erosion? Ironically, I'm filming spraying POR 15 on my new chassis stiffening project. Thanks for the comment!
@@FastMonty Looking forward to the next installment, man. I'm gearing up to do my inner fenders and core support. I did my front suspension in POR about 20 years ago, top coated with semigloss black while it still had tack to protect from UV. It might be better than powdercoat. I wonder if the plate needed more surface rust!
@@wtdonovan Ha! My tongue was in my cheek, when I said it might be my prep. I could almost guarantee that 210 degree coolant doesn't agree with POR 15. Anyway, I totally concur about being better than powder coat... I've been trying to remove it from the frame to weld in my new chassis support, and it takes forever with a Scotch Brite wheel on my Angle Grinder. (My 80 grit just gets clogged up) Crazy good stuff. Keep at it!
NICE GLOSSYPART!! Dis you use clear coat after POR15 or did you apply the TOP COAT??
Thanks... yeah, it came out sweet... I did not top coat it, as it's going on the engine. But, yes, you can top coat it for UV protection. Thanks for the comment.
I want to apply this on the under body of my jeep to prevent future rust problems. Can I spray over the frame, skid plates, and BOLTS? Or should I avoid bolts in case things need to come off later?
Good question. You can spray it everywhere... BUT, if you want two pieces of metal, or fasteners to be removed at a later date, you have to paint them separately, and mask the threads. Other than that, the painted area has to be absolutely grease and oil free, or the paint will just flake off. Hope that helps!
You mentioned you did your frame with a brush. Due to limited room in my garage and the mess with over spray, I am going to go the same way. I'm just wondering how much POR 15 you use? Did it work to just brush on the Prep & Ready? Also, have you tried the aerosol POR 15? I was looking to use it for some smaller parts.
Good question... I think I used a quart? It's critical to follow the directions, and the frame has to be completely clean, ie no grease. You may have to clean it several times. Then you can use the prep and ready, which you basically brush on with a sponge. Or, one of those sponge brushes, which is what I also used for the painting of the actual POR15. No sense in cleaning brushes and buckets... just throw them away. I have not tried the aerosol version, as I didn't even know that existed. So, thanks for that. lol Let us know how that goes. Have fun!
@@FastMonty Thanks again. I love your videos.
@@laurel-annsimmons8630 Thanks! Keep the questions coming... and good luck on your build!
I have the same spray gun, can you tell me where you ordered the adapter for using the disposable cups?
Good Question John, I got the gun and the disposable cups from Eastwood. The cup kit comes with the adapter. www.eastwood.com/dekups-34-oz-pro-starter-kit.html I've also seen the adapters sold separately on Amazon. Good luck!
I had no idea it sprayed so nice. I always have brushed it on. Do I have to worry about it ruining the spray gun? Just clean in with lacquer thinner? Nice video!
Thanks! I'd definitely use your "primer" gun, just in case. In that video, I kept the gun full of paint until I shot the second coat, which was three hours later. But, I took the nose piece off and cleaned that with the POR15 solvent after the first coat. After I was done with the second coat, I cleaned the entire gun with the POR15 solvent. Thanks for the comment, and good luck with your project!
So I sprayed yesterday with the 1.5 tip and 5% solvent. The first coat I used from a can that had been opened a few times and it must have made it a little thicker because it didnt shoot out very smoothly. The second can was new and was a lot easier to spray so my recommendation is to use a fresh can for spraying.
@@markymark2599 Great suggestion! Trying to store an open can of POR15 is difficult, so that makes sense. Thanks again for sharing!
If you was to use raptor tintable would you recommend the adhesion promoter or the raptor primer?
I don't know what "Raptor" is? But, the only time I hear of Adhesion Promoter is when painting plastic. So, go with the primer. Just my opinion. Have fun!
cool vid, but something that small, powder coat it - eco friendly and more durable - we have 16 x 10 x 10 oven and do car frames and all that - but i have project now that is a 20' equipment hauler, looks like i am going to get into the wet spray for this one thx very helpful video
You're welcome! Yeah, I love powder coating. Luckily anyone can apply POR15 at home. Thanks for the comment and good luck on your project!
I plan on doing the undercarriage of my 2000 tahoe. Thanks for the vid, this will be much better than brushing it on
Awesome! I wish I knew I could spray it, before I did my GTO... what a huge time saver! Good luck!
@@FastMonty You being a mechanic I was really SHOCKED that you didn't know you could use a spray gun,lol,hey were only human and we learn something new everyday...
@@mercedesbenzs600bash Ha! Nor have I rebuilt a car before... hence the steep learning curve. That said, I'm probably the only "Mechanic" that has painted a car before, and painted it well. That's when I learned about painting, which was far after using a brush on the frame. Thanks for the comment!
Its P.O.R not Poor. Very nice video though! Alot of "professional paint shops near me won't touch P.O.R with a paint gun. Swear it can't be done. You proved them wrong big time!
Agreed... I'll be doing another version of this video, in the next couple of months, fixing my errors, and using P.O.R.'s accelerator. Thanks!
do you wear a respirator?
What's a respirator? Ha, kidding... of course I do. Here's the latest of how to spray, which shows me painting this time. kzhead.info/sun/bJqIqpSJhpNseGw/bejne.html
You can thin it with xylene if you don't have access to the solvent
Thanks Gary, Wish I knew that while re-filming this subject, which airs tomorrow. ha, ha... Thanks for the comment!
Seems like POR 15 is the way to go,its a lot thinner than FLUID FILM and other WOOLWAX products,and the finish is so smooth, good information my man,thanks...What the best stuff to clean the cups out or the paint brushes???
Thanks! The best way to clean it? You don't. You throw the cups and brushes in the trash. As for the gun, POR15 has a thinner, which is best to use to clean with. Then follow that with Acetone. But, it has to be done way before it starts to cure.
@@FastMonty Much appreciated 🙏🏿
@@mercedesbenzs600bash No worries! Good luck on any future projects!
@@peidsvoog Agreed. I use the POR15 thinner on the gun first... then follow it up with Acetone. Thanks for the comment!
What’s the cleaning process for the gun? Do you have to clean it immediately after you’re done to prevent any of it from hardening inside?
Good question... in between coats, just clean the cap, and front end. For final cleaning, I used their solvent, and finished up with Acetone. I have another project coming up where I'll be using the same process. I'll make a new video, and include cleaning, etc... Thanks!
@@FastMonty awesome! Thank you!
I have a question about the por 15 I have a steel trailer and it's starting to rust I spoke with the distributor for por 15 He said I need to sand blast the whole trailer before I add the por15 Or else the rust will continue through What are your thoughts ?
Good question Ryan... my thoughts are the distributor must own a sand blasting business. Ha, ha... If you sand blast it, you can use any paint in the world. POR 15 was invented to paint over rust, where the process stops it. BUT, you have to prep it correctly. Clean, De-Grease, and then use the metal prep solution, which removes, and or converts the rust to Zinc-Phosphate. Then, and only then, can you paint POR-15 over it. Then top coat it for UV protection. All that said, and me not looking at your trailer, it might be easier to sand blast it. Sand blasting removes the grease and rust. But, you still have to apply the Metal Prep to it, before painting POR 15 on it. I hope that helps...
Absolutely helps I just discovered that por15 Was sold and diluted KBS coatings is the same chemist Better product!
@@Ryan-yi6su Interesting... didn't know that, and have never heard of KBS. Anyway, all I can say is POR15 works. When applied correctly. :) Have fun!
POR = Paint Over Rust. So why sand blast. Just knock down the loose stuff and paint away. I love this stuff.
Can I spray this on the entire underside of my truck without disassembling anything? I would love to spray clean and degrease and then por15 everything. Thanks
I guess you could... just be aware that if you spray it on two metal pieces, those two pieces will be practically welded together. It's that tough. Hope that helps. ?
@@FastMonty Thank you
Is all the prep necessary if you sand blast the frame?
Good question... I would. But, definitely not as difficult. You're gonna have to do a quick wash to get the dust residue off. The Prep solution prevents any rust flashing, in between steps, and adds another chemical etch. Good luck!
Best stuff ever. Have Acetone on hand. Consider shaving your arms/body first :) Don't wear your favorite shoes.
Ha! Love it, and totally agree! A full body condom comes to mind.... Thanks for the comment!
Can I just use a regular thinner yo thin down the paint ??
Good question Cesar. Unfortunately, I don't know. I would reach out to POR 15 directly to ask them. Thanks for watching!
What did you use to clean your spray gun does it clean up well
Good question... yes, It cleaned up fine. I used the POR 15 solvent, then followed that with Acetone. Thanks for the comment!
Did you use the cleaner, metal prep and spray on the por15 onto your frame? I keep reading that you need to do the first 2 steps or it won’t last that long.
Sure did! It was a pain, but, still on there... 10 years later. :) And, you're correct, no paint will last very long unless the surface is dirt/grease free. The additional step is the etching (Metal Prep). Have fun, and thanks for the comment!
@@FastMonty thanks for the fast response 🤙🏼
@@pjsaki4797 Yup, no worries! Good luck!
Will por15 actually hold up to the high Temps that your coolant puts out? I'd hate for your radiator passages to get all gummed up
Well, no, no it does not... bahahahhaahaa Oh well. It works really well on that exposed edge between the water pump and timing cover. So, when I built the engine AGAIN, I removed all of the paint on the interior, and just painted the gasketed surface, outer edge. Thanks for looking out! Fun stuff, as usual.
@Fast Monty's Garage hahaaa nice 👍 I'll keep that in mind when I do my new flow kooler.
@@CalicoRiot Awesome!
Doing some product research and going inside the bedsides of a 54 year old GM pickup. You used a thinner to make it sprayable. What does the thinner smell like? Acetone perhaps. As a tech, fixing vehicles going to the late 70’s. Dealers and independents where part of it, but I have had 3 people bring in their vehicles over heating. I see a new / reman water pump and start counting gaskets. They have left the plate off and peeled with the pump. I call them to ask if they still have the pump, only one had their plate. Never painted one as antifreeze has rust inhibitors in it. Go back to a 50’s Pontiac with a straight six, remove the pump and the passengers side had a brass tube that flares at the front and slots that line up with the middle of the cylinder sleeves cast in the block. The tube had small slots at the front and larger at the rear. It directs the coolant between the cylinders and the other side creates a vacuum to circulate the coolant toward. Crude but effective. Of course the radio had tubes in it & the size of a mailbox. At least pre-war WW-II. Nice video and info. I have long arms but still could not reach the deep area of the bedsides. This one is mine as I am retired. Would save money where I can if I could substitute a thinner that works. Maybe the MHDS. Thanks!
Thanks Dean... no, the thinner smells like Mineral Spirits. I love the smell of Acetone, it's definitely not that. ha, ha... Or, just get the POR15 thinner. :) Thanks for sharing!
How would por 15 work on aluminum rims
Probably works fine. Make sure it's cleaned and etched first.
Believe it or not I used rubbing alcohol and it takes it off I was surprised also but it did work
Thanks for the comment! Definitely worth trying out...
Acetone/Fingernail Polish is the shiznit.
@@robnation2475 Good to know! Thanks for the suggestion!
I can vouch for the trying to close the por15 can, i went through 2 cans becuase i got some on the lip and tryed to wipe it and close it, next time i went to use it and it wasnt coming open but i could still hear product in there. I ended up stabbing the side of the can to get the rest out lol
HA! I had to do the same thing... that's why I love the new small cans. Thanks for the comment!
@@FastMonty thanks for the videos, and i love the car. Keep it up brother
Lay plastic over can place lid on next time you open it will come off
You must wait 3 hours between coats or do them before 3 hours?
Good question Ryan, you need to wait 3 to 4 hours. Good news is, there's an accelerator you can buy. Here it is; www.amazon.com/dp/B01HH1I7O0?tag=onamzmikemont-20&linkCode=ssc&creativeASIN=B01HH1I7O0&asc_item-id=amzn1.ideas.2FVA8BW0CZJJH It'll help get to the point of having a "light tack", before you spray the next coat. I'll have a new version of this video coming in the next couple months. Thanks for the comment!
any experience with their high heat version?
No, not yet... but, based on how awesome their standard product line is, I'm sure it's great. Thanks for the comment!
what do you use to clean your gun
My apologies, I don't recall mentioning it... I soak all the parts in Acetone. (Obviously clean the front cap pieces between coats) BTW, might want to check out my up to date version of this video here; kzhead.info/sun/bJqIqpSJhpNseGw/bejne.html Have fun!
Would por 15 be a good under coating?
Definitely! But, the hardest part is the prep... I'm also not familiar with all of the other products on the market, for undercoating. But, I'd use it in a heart beat. Thanks!
Don't you worry about wind or pollen contaminating your paint outside?
Not so much when spraying engine parts. As when I'm done spraying, I bring them inside. The issue would be dramatically worse if I left it outside to dry.
Thank you for the info! Great learning tool for the hobbies! I guess I need to cut my beard 🤣🤣😕😕👍👍👍👍👍
You're Welcome! Xmas is coming, don't cut the beard! Ha ha. Thanks for the comment.
Go on Ebay and buy some $2 balaclavas,, no good on hot days but if you get this stuff on you THINNERS wont touch it,Anything that comes in contact with POR 15 is Destroyed,, rags, Paintbrushes, containers, arms, legs. faces,, its insanely hard to get off. Paint stripper wont touch it. Its like Cryptonite that Superman cant touch, ts that good. Steve in Australia.
@@stevedriver1476 Agreed! Thanks Steve!
You need to try Rust Bullet Duragrade Color. So much better than POR15 and NO topcoat required.
Very interesting... I'll check it out. Thanks for the comment!
what type of solvent?
It's POR15 Solvent. If you're gonna spray it, I recommend checking out my latest video on this subject where I also discuss their new Dry Time Accelerator. Here; kzhead.info/sun/bJqIqpSJhpNseGw/bejne.htmlsi=DiE8x8UHCS28oMMB Have fun!
How much POR would it take to do the underside of a car?
Great Question! My educated guess is 2 Quarts. But, I highly recommend reaching out to POR15, they're pretty good at getting back to me. Tell them your estimated surface area, and that you'll be spraying it. Be sure to get their accelerator too... it's in the description of this video, as it was not available when I shot this. (Helps with drying time) Let me know how it goes!
I see you put it in the description
Yup, just added the links to help everyone. Thanks for the question!
Video starts at 2:45 For the impatient DIY's
Ha! Too funny... here's the latest version of How to Spray POR15, but with using their Acclerator. kzhead.info/sun/bJqIqpSJhpNseGw/bejne.html
I read you do not shake you must stir only??
Good question. I actually don't know...all I can say is I Always stir my paint for HLVP guns. If I had to guess, shaking it would introduce bubbles into the mix, then depending on the gun, it would end up spraying those bubbles with the paint? So, just stir it. ;) Thanks for the comment!
He filmed every painstaking detail EXCEPT the actual painting of the part!
Ha! You need me to do another video to show that? LOL I didn't feel that was necessary, as I showed the spray pattern. But, will keep that in the back of my head for the next time I spray something. Thanks!
You might want to research the "V" in HVLP.
Ha! Wow, what a brain fart. You're right, should've said High VOLUME. Thanks for the correction!
may be high volume, low pressure. thx!
Ha! It sure is. Sometimes my brain and mouth don't coordinate. Thx
I hear that POR only likes to stick to rust directly. My Idea is to only use POR 15 on the rusty spots, and then use a rustoleum paint to coat the rest of the attached components. Am I misguided in this?
Good question... A little misguided. The metal, rust or not, has to be etched, which is what the Prep solution is for. That etching allows POR 15 to "stick". That's why the cleaning, grease removal, etching steps are so important. Once the POR 15 is cured, that piece of metal aint gonna rust. And yes, you can top coat it like you did. Thanks for the comment!
@@dusan78 Ha! Good point... Wrong choice of words on my part. It's effectively a very strong epoxy spray paint. It will "stick" to anything it's sprayed on. BUT, if you want it to do it's job on steel parts, and last forever, never chip off, etc... you have to clean that surface thoroughly, and etch it. (The etching kills the rust, and gives a great base for the POR 15 to adhere to) Hope that helps... have fun with your project!
@@dusan78 Ha! I hear you! Sooooo, car parts, near suspension, and engine components are the WORST. Reason is, they have to be completely grease and oil free, BEFORE applying the the metal prep. I totally agree it's difficult, under the car... (Keep in mind, I did my frame, with the body off) I would remove that piece, prep, paint, and re-install. (Mask any bolt holes, or threads) Hope that helps.
Used POR Years Ago ,My Buddy Said Don’t Get It On You ,It Will NEVER Come Off, I Said Whatever, I Proved Him Wrong ,I Had It All Off In Three Short WEEKS !!! PS ,Turn Your Cans Upside Down ,Stops The Air From Getting In
Very funny... about three weeks is right. ha, ha... great tip about turning the can upside down, assuming there's no pain in the lip of the can/lid. Thanks for chiming in!
HVLP stands for High VOLUME Low Pressure
Agreed. Sometimes my mouth doesn't communicate with my brain. Thanks.
is epoxy better
Maybe... I use epoxy on newly refinished steel. The Paint. Over. Rust. system is exactly that, used to paint oxidized surfaces, and then prevents further oxidation. Thanks!
High VOLUME low pressure
Agreed. Don't know how I messed that up... ha, ha... it's correct in the description. Thanks!
1-Pint semi-gloss Advance Auto Parts part number "PRW45408". $35 dollars but goes a freaky long way. Very deceiving. Small foam rollers and foam on a stick applicators are handy. (get a bunch of them as they tend to dissolve)
Agreed. When brushing it on, I use the disposable foam brushes, or acid brushes... no sense in cleaning em, just toss em. Thanks!
Save it in the fridge
Interesting... thanks!
Just get an empty paint can and lid from Lowe’s and dump your remaining POR 15 in there. I met a guy today that kept it in his shop fridge.
Great tip! Thanks for the comment!
That stuff has been around a long time it used to be one of the best for rust prevention those days are long gone there's much better product on the market now
Maybe there is... I've had great success with POR 15, and even better success when spraying it. Thanks.
@@FastMonty how many cars have you built Monte 1
@@scottshields8334 one full restoration by myself, and helped on others. All of us used POR15.
HVLP= High Volume, Low Pressure. Not Velocity
Yup, I'm aware... brain fart. It's correct in the description. Thanks.
High "Volume" Low Pressure...
Yep! Totally miss spoke... thanks!
It's P O R 15 not pour 15 just wanna get that straight. So people at autoparts store look at you like ehe?
Good point. BUT, if you walk into an autoparts store and ask for POUR 15, and they don't know what you're talking about? Fire that person, on the spot. Just saying. Lmao.