How to PROPERLY Undercoat A Rusted Car or Truck. (Fluid Film Surface Shield, Woolwax)
How to PROPERLY Undercoat A Rusted Car or Truck. In this video we are going to go over the proper application of a Lanolin based undercoat on a vehicle with existing surface rust on it. We are going to cover why traditional paints and rubberized undercoating fails, why Lanolin is a much better option for undercoating vehicles, and the process required to properly undercoat your car or truck. I will also answer frequently asked questions about Fluid Film, Surface Shield, Woolwax applications.
Here are the tools that I used in this video:
Wire Brushes (small): amzn.to/3sTpNz7
Wire Brushes (large): amzn.to/3HuV8vO
Needle Scaler: amzn.to/3Hs1LPI
Surface Finisher: amzn.to/3znL3xW
Surface Finisher Wire brush: amzn.to/3FUtLuJ
Bulk Products: (Compressed air required)
Professional Spray Gun: amzn.to/3JITJUo
Graphite Powder (Turns clear products black): amzn.to/3mYBzEm
Surface Shield: amzn.to/3FYKptw
Fluid Film: amzn.to/3qGGXNC
Woolwax: amzn.to/3pSJTre
Aerosol Products:
Spray Can Handles: amzn.to/3F1d93y
Inner cavity tool: amzn.to/3NNtZbP
Inner cavity Adapter (Surface Shield only): amzn.to/3mYbOEq
Surface Shield: amzn.to/3JGW4PO
Fluid Film: amzn.to/32OQtX4
Woolwax: amzn.to/3sWTJKt
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00:00 Introduction
1:31 How to stop rust
2:32 Why traditional paint/rubber undercoating fails
3:44 Why Lanolin/Petrolum undercoating works better
4:27 What about painting first then applying Lanolin?
5:30 Coating internal surfaces
6:34 What about cosmoline?
9:24 What product is "best"?
11:43 Equipment needed to spray bulk product
13:43 Aerosol attachments
14:56 Vehicle that we will be coating
15:46 Equipment needed to prep a rusted vehicle
17:46 How to prepare the rust
19:23 Body plug removal
19:56 How I spray the vehicle
22:59 Results after spraying clear undercoating. Reapply in a week or so.
24:13 What about GM wax frames?
25:14 Do I mask off anything before I spray/Issues with rubber???
25:53 Do I wash the bottom of the vehicle?
27:20 Still have questions? Make a comment!
Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user Repair Geek makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. Repair Geek shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by Repair Geek and therefore, Repair Geek does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge Repair Geek or anyone affiliated with Repair Geek, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law.
Here are the tools that I used in this video: Wire Brushes (small): amzn.to/3sTpNz7 Wire Brushes (large): amzn.to/3HuV8vO Needle Scaler: amzn.to/3Hs1LPI Surface Finisher: amzn.to/3znL3xW Surface Finisher Wire brush: amzn.to/3FUtLuJ Bulk Products: (Compressed air required) Professional Spray Gun: amzn.to/3JITJUo Graphite Powder (Turns clear products black): amzn.to/3mYBzEm Surface Shield: amzn.to/3FYKptw Fluid Film: amzn.to/3qGGXNC Woolwax: amzn.to/3pSJTre Aerosol Products: Spray Can Handles: amzn.to/3F1d93y Inner cavity tool: amzn.to/3NNtZbP Inner cavity Adapter (Surface Shield only): amzn.to/3mYbOEq Surface Shield: amzn.to/3JGW4PO Fluid Film: amzn.to/32OQtX4 Woolwax: amzn.to/3sWTJKt My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
I bought the adapters to get the surface shield to work with the 360° wand. 🤟
Surprised you didn't include the options of a sandblaster, air chisel/hammer, and needle scaler. Those work wonders!
So I’ve had decent luck stopping the oxidization of rusty metal with a rust converter product.. currently I’ve got an old truck frame I want to protect from rust worsening. By the sounds of it you’d recommend fluid film it once I get it cleaned up and don’t body with the rust converter first? Have you any experience with a product like that?
@@MTD12HPTURBO kzhead.info/sun/p9lqnpWIhn-dbHA/bejne.html
So i bought a 93 nissan d21 someone had cleaned and painted the frame with what looks like tractor paint. Its extremely thick and rubbery. They seemed to do an ok job of removing the loose stuff but not perfect but more so got paint on lot of stupid areas. All in all its a 93 pickup with 75k miles that i got cheap and use for winter or dump runs. Should i try and strip and clean it better or think wont matter much?
Tip for the DIY guys doing this laying on your back in the driveway: Park your car on a big sheet of plastic. Raise your car up on 4 good jack stands. Tape a plastic skirt around the sides. Weight down the bottom edge of the plastic skirt. Put a fan at one end to draw air through the tunnel you created. Wear a hoodie, old clothes, and some sort of face cover.
Lol. Sounds like a good idea. Says the guy with a very rust coloured driveway. And all I did was wire brush four winter tires(rims).
Safety goggles and respirator mask help out very much so. You don't want to breath the rust dust.
Thanks for this not everyone has the luxury of a lift
@@lobdsk rent
@@KareemOwens. I’m sure they would enjoy fluid film all over their lift
If you are using ramps, I've found it easier to ramp up the sides of the vehicles rather than front and back. It helps with better access and more space one side at a time vs front and back.
Got to try that.
i cant believe i didnt think of this. so simple. yet so smart. thanks!
So? I have owed many trucks and I definitely live in a Salt belt. All of my trucks have been GM and my experience is that after the 3rd winter you will see the start of all the future problems with the factory pealing at the frame areas. What I also see because I always wash and scrap first is at the very least 2 gallon pales of dirt most of which is in the cavity of the frame and suspension areas. That said what good does it do to spray over the top of salt invested sandy dirt?
Gonna try that ! Hate doing this do it every year - Ramps on one side may help
genius. Going to do this tonight.
This is brilliant... I've spend years thinking about this topic and while most of what you instructed is known to me but so much of it is not in my mind. You have pulled it all together and provided examples of success and failure that I've never seen anyone else do. This is THE Best resource on the web.
Thanks for the information, these lanolin and cosmoline products have made a huge difference in the long term quality of my vehicles vs trying to sand and paint everything, and there is a massive time savings. Thanks for spreading the word to help other mechanics.
Like sheep's wool?
@@Teeveepicksures sheep's wool wax
@@StrongFreeLovin I know, sorry. It was a dumb line from a movie.
Gonna be working on my rusty old van, thank you so much for making this video easy to understand for those of us who are new to working on cars. So much of the information out there is geared towards people who already know what theyre doing, what the tools are and all of that.
I learned to do this as an apprentice over in Germany at an Opel dealer. We used to power wash the under side of a car let it dry then put it the paint booth for a few hours @ 130 if I remember correctly. Your video was a great refresher. Good job and great content, thanks!
Of the MANY rust proofing videos I've watched, yours is the best IMO OP.
Thanks for the video. You made this topic of undercoating crystal clear compared to many other videos and forums I’ve been reading on. I’m going to fluid film my 2009 4Runner and aside from some minor surface rust the frame is in fantastic shape so I want to keep it strong for many years to come. I wanted to make sure I was doing the right thing by using fluid film and not some other rubberized coating or product.
Got to love random KZhead recommendations. Seeing this makes me super glad I live in a hot dry country and don't have to deal with road salt. I barely have anything more than surface rust where the paint has been stripped away. It's interesting the products they have made to protect from rust.
Didn't have to watch the entire video and I couldn't have been more happier. Been thinking about how to deal with the minimal rust under my truck and BOOM, this video. Please keep this up!
Great video. I do my vehicles every fall when I swap to snow tires. One thing I like to do is I put plastic garbage bags around the rotors/calipers before I spray so whatever product I'm using doesn't contaminate the brake pads.
It’ll burn off
Burns right off I’ve never had any issues.
Yea if the salt don’t contaminate them that sure want
good thinking, prevents immediate slippery brakes
I put it on my calipers, bleed nuts, everything except the pads and rotors. I then take it easy in traffic with the brakes leaving twice as much room and not towing stuff for the next 50 miles. I then do a little burn off braking a couple times to get them nice and hot. I haven't had any issues with slick brakes.
I find this video searching for fluid film on YT. I now follow this channel due to the expertise and thorough knowledge shown in this video. Thanks for your help.
As I have stated before. I truly appreciate your continued commitment to stopping rust on our vehicles. I had new rockers and cab corners put on my '03 Silverado last year. They put in a few holes so I can get inside with a wand. I ran the truck up on jack stands and used a hand held wire brush. Eight cans of Wool Wax later and the whole underside was done. Also was able to get the spare tire down for the third time in the life of the truck. Side benefit, Wool Wax lubricated the lowering/lifting mechanism for the spare tire. Believe me it did not want to come down. THANKS AGAIN!!!
I recently had the rockers and cab corners on my 06 GMC Sierra too.. these trucks are great and just go..esp comparing them to the note on a new pickup lol.
Lanolin is a miracle product!
I live in the rust belt, bought a 2007 D-max 2500 Silverado brand new in 07 and immediately undercoat it with Fluid Film. I've been undercoating it every year since using Fluid Film and there is no rust what so ever on my truck. Recently I was offered more than I paid for my truck in 07.
I had to cut my spare tire support off. Spare living in my truck bed now
@@shelbywilson114 my spare tire support is rusted to the release mechanism. Debating whether to even try and get it down. I have roadside assistance, so as long as I stay in civilization I'll be fine.
Well done dude! I have been in doubt, questioning myself about all the reasons why should I use a Lano product and how...I have researched quite a lot on youtube but your explanatory video was the best I could get hold of. Clear and straight forward! Thanks a lot and well done!
Seems like the manufacturer of the vehicle would have everything coated nice to prevent rust like this!
Best analysis of how coating work on metal to fight rust. I really enjoyed this . Thank you
So I've been noticing surface rust on my 1-year old tacoma in Dallas. I have seen other tacomas and toyota vehicles a few years older here with NO rust at all. So I'm pretty annoyed by that and have been attending youtube university recently and your info is definitely the most helpful. The single best bit of info that I just learned here, which really surprises me, is that you can apply these something like fluid film over surface rust and that will totally stop the rust. I thought rust was basically a terminal cancer that you had to root out one way or another. So, based on the fact that my rust is very, very thin surface rust, I plan to just apply fluid film over it and call it a day. Huge win. THANK YOU
Awesome! Loving this series! I'm about an hour north of you right in the heart of the snow belt. A customer of mine just asked if I could coat the underbody of his Chevy truck. So, this was timed perfectly! Now, get yourself some nice lights and a decent wireless mic to improve the audio/visual appeal of your videos, bruddah! Take care.
Thank you very very much for this much-needed video addressing how to undercoat an older slightly rusted car. It is a really good video and answers my past questions.. Thank you very much. Bob C
What I loved about this video is logical consistency - this -> therefore that. Real tried and tested methods.
I had several questions about coating the underbody when I started this video. I no longer have questions. 😁👍If an ignorant guy like me can get familiar with the process after a video, then you did a good job explaining.
Thanks!
Nice Man! Your undercoating videos are the best and more honest I’ve seen on KZhead! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience!
Great job and thank you for all the work you put into this video. My only suggestion is that things that can easily be removed should be as the rust will still be on the other side, for example the metal frame you first started to wire brush.
Think I’ve landed at the best video, thanks for being straightforward and providing so much information!!! You’re very helpful
my friend fell into severe medical debt and is looking at selling her newer car for a reliable 2000 Mazda Protege ES. since rust is a _huge_ issue with that model, we've been looking at videos for coating the undercarriage and yours by far was the *best* . thank you for the detailed instructions and hopefully if everything goes well for her, she'll still have a reliable car that will last her a few years until she gets back on her feet!
Amazing video - this is truly the best video on car rustproofing I have seen after almost 10 years of doing research on this topic and having my car rustproofed with oil. Just the truth and no marketing for BS products. I will start rustproofing my cars myself now. Thanks!
AGREE 👍
So what about rustproofing with oil - did it worked for you?
@@radoslavzlatinov3255Yes, it works better than all other options, but it still has to be re-applied once a year, or every 2 years. Nothing lasts forever.
Did my car a year or so back when I first bought it - took off all plastic splash shields in the wheel wells and under the engine bay, also and removed brake pads and rotors. This gave me superior access to hub faces/knuckles and all sides of the front and rear crossmembers. Added some extra work, but was well worth it to get unfettered access to everything!
Good information presented in a no BS manner - thanks. The electro-chemical basis of rust is actually quite interesting, though I can understand why you didn't go into electron exchanges. Years ago I read a book on rust published in England. The author included photos of zinc sheets that were used to line the inner spaces of automobile fenders that acted as sacrificial anodes. They were meant to be periodically replaced, much like the zinc anodes attached to the hulls of ships.
Michigan native here and they salt the roads like mad. I noticed after undercoating (done before winter started) my XJ that salt does not stick at all to the bottom of it, its amazing lmao. will be doing this every year from now on. and if anyone is curious it took me about 3 full cans of the Surface shield aerosol to coat everything on the bottom. thanks for another great video!
I am in Ontario and I agree with this comment. Once coated road salt does not stick.
Just recently discovered your channel while searching rust prevention/mitigation strategies. Thank you for these type of videos. I've got a 24 yr old, 270k mile car for my daily that, despite my best efforts, is starting to show some underbody age/surface rust. Gonna be trying to head that garbage off at the pass with some Surface Shield. Thanks again!
What kind of car?
same what car?
@@RotoRCol 1998 Camaro Z28. Been my daily driver since 2005. Only complaint about doing it is that it makes working on anything under the car now pretty nasty. I've never gotten so dirty changing a fuel filter. But I guess there's a trade off to just about everything!
That's an awesome daily
Thank you for spending all of your time doing this. It really helps people it sucks spending lots of money and lots of time with poor results !!!
Could use a compact air needle scaler to get into those rusted areas. Works well at getting the rust off and prepping areas hard to get to.
This was incredibly informative. I'm having a battle with rust on a 1992 Toyota Pickup and after watching your video, I have hope. Thank you for sharing.
Check-out Project Farm. He did testing on multiple products to see which protects the best.
oil underspray is the only answer to stop it.
One of the (if not THE) best videos on the subject. Very thorough and excellently presented. Awesome stuff :)
I don't see him clean the metal properly. Isn't a brown color indicate that rust is still on the surface? Unless its a multiple phase task and subsequent attempts will clean the metal properly. Also must the material get on the tires?
@@matlock8314 You just need to get the loose rust off, the flakey bits.
Boston, MA area - Thanks to Fluidfilm & Woolswax my 2010 Crown Vic is rust free. I spray the undercarriage in the heat of August giving it time to ooze into all the crevices.
clear and concise exhaustive coverage of what i was looking for! Thanks and subscribed.
I've been working underneath my 05 f150. A lot of places are full of mud and sand. The front fenders are the worst for collecting crap behind the wheels. I highly recommend hitting the underside of trucks with a pressure washer.
Wow, one of the best videos I've seen. Thorough, yet to the point and not rambling. I've gone from POR-15 clear (rust started coming back in a year) to routine underbody pressure washes. Now, maybe I'll switch to lanolin. I guess it's the same concept as products like Boeshield T-9 or CRC Marine Corrosion Inhibitor, but lanolin is more economical than a spray can with a fancy blend of solvents, oils, and waxes.
One of the best videos or perhaps the best video about applying anti rost like Fluidfilm on a used car.
this might be the best video I've seen describing this stuff. Thanks for putting it out there. I have a very crappy British car that's falling apart from rust and now I have a plan to save it.
I found that using a blunt air chisel with the air pressure really low works well to vibrate the rust scale off. Just need to be careful. Been spraying my cars for three years now. Seems to be keeping the rust at bay. The good thing is it forces you to look over your cars from every angle to know exactly where you are at before going into winter. Great video. Keep up the good work.
Air needle scaler is the best tool for getting bad flaky rust off
The more time you spend hands on the more you know about your vehicle. Sometimes more then the mechanic you might need to bring it to. If that's your option.
yup, knocked a scoop shovel of rust off my rails with air hammer... loud... but effective
I coated my brand new 22 4Runner with cosmoline. It is now the end of January in an extremely harsh Canadian winter. The 4 runner has bare, non coated front shock bolts. I usually see these rusted out on vehicles on the lot. Not a spec of rust is to be found on them.
Great video ,anyone not getting their vehicles rust proofed here in SW Pa better be trading them in every 3 years!I have repaired so many rusted out cars& trucks in my 65 years ,It is the first thing I look for when buying any car .No matter how new it is.I ve seen 4 yr old trucks with critical frame rust. Put a clutch in a Toyota the whole frame rusted in half at the tranny cross member. I am driving an 05 Canyon 4 wd close to 200 k with very little rust.It was coated when new at Rick Fennel Rus t Proofing in Butler ,Pa. A pioneer and legend in rust proofing.It does eventually dry out after 10 yrs but as you said ,re applying is the key.I like all the Lanolin products now and do seasonal applications on the family cars. A new Product I really like is called PFC protection first class made by Berkebile Oil Co in Somerset ,Pa.Their sales rep showed me the test vehicle results they run and their products stay on a little longer than Fluid Film.
I’m in Ohio and gosh I wish I could have everyone I know just follow this video. Even if it’s just one application. Boss bought new trucks last year for our delivery service. Absolutely against any sort of undercoating. So I’ll just sit back and watch it happen to the new trucks. 🙄. This is one of the best videos out there !!!!
Couldn't agree more about the GM wax coating. I put Fluid Film on my '15 for the first time this year, and I found that the coating refreshed it and made it even better than new. Over time it may become more and more diluted and eventually sling off, but for now it's great.
I'm debating about putting Fluid Film on my dad's '18, but I am hesitant to (at least on the frame). Mechanic we take our vehicles to get inspected to put Fluid Film on his brand new '21 Silverado, and the wax coating is literally peeling away. Not sure if the wax they put on the '19+ is different from the '14-'18's, but the wax was literally peeling away before the truck even encountered any salt here in western PA.
Good. Let that trash peel away, then coat it with fluid film or surface sheild so it is actually protected.
Great content as always. Thanks for the time you put into your videos. Something I've been doing is adding wheel well liners and mudflaps to help cut down on spray that ultimately washes off the coatings. Seems to help.
That's actually an idea. Would it be a good idea to take off the oem splash guards in the wheel wells to be more thorough?
@@johnnyray7790 yeah it does make it easier to get to places on certain vehicles. Some aren't worth the extra time. All depends on application.
Great video! Thank you for sharing your experience and wisdom. It’s much appreciated.
Great video as usual man. I know you posted this awhile ago, but just wanted to say thanks. I bought out ALL the Surface Shield in Calgary, AB today from all the stores I found online that had stock. Took me a few hours but pressure washed under my F150, then neutralized all surface rust frame spots and welds with Krud Kutter (best rust converter I’ve ever found, as has project farm!) re-pressure washed entire undercarriage and just finished coating it all in Surface Shield. Took me all day but she’s gonna be awesome during our salt enduring winter up here! 💪
brilliant review. btw can get fluid film in gallons, enough to do a f150, for about $40
We seem to be of the same school of thought on this. I bought a 2013 pickup a couple years ago. Took the box off this fall and used the needle scaler on the whole back of the frame, etc. It was bad scaly rust. Basically got it down to bare metal, but looked at it and thought that there's no way anything is going to reliably bond to that, and there are so many places I couldn't possible prep, so I decided that the best bet was to apply woolwax to bare metal. So far, it's holding up phenomenally; Even in the wheel wells, after at least several hundred miles @ 80-85MPH on Michigan Highways. Exactly my thoughts about applying anything else on the metal. It would end up peeling and leaving bare metal exposed, taking the woolwax with it, as well as it holding water underneath. Woolwax [ or any lanolin based solution ] solves both those problems.
I’m in Michigan and it sounds like I need to do something similar . Can this be done without having to put the car in the air ?
Thanks man. Just bought a clean 05 Silverado and want to keep it nice for years to come. First video I’ve watched of yours and I feel like I can trust you with my life for some reason. Lol. Nice work!
This is such a great comprehensive video. I like the engineering explained style intro explaining the high level overview of your approach tackling rust. Great work!
Great video! I was about to have someone paint the bottom of my Suburban (or I was going to maybe do it) but I think I'm going to do this instead. Seems smart and much better coverage.
A great vid! I have used Fluid Film but currently prefer NHOilUndercoating. The only issues I've had is it attacked the valve stems on a set of snow tires, after about 4yrs, they softened up and needed replacement. No biggie. I don't bother with the wire brushing, etc. I just blow the loose crud off with an air gun. My theory is the rust actually hold more of the product in place over time. Think about the inside and top of frames in trucks. You can't really knock the rust off those areas, or the backside of gas tank straps, etc. I use more product than you do, relying on the product to "creep" into/onto areas it wasn't directly sprayed. Lastly I had the type of gun you are using but traded up to a Lemmer gun. Once you use one you'll never go back. Pressure pot type so it moves a lot more product with minimal over spray, regulator on the gun, quick disconnect for the tips and needle adjustment for fine tuning. It's excellent.
For those of us with older cars without stainless steel exhaust parts , clean them with wire wheel on drill or grinder wipe clean with thinner or similar solvent then run vehicle for fifteen minutes to dry parts off. Once dry , spray on a good coating of galvanizing primer which should contain 90% or more zinc. Apply again in the spring or just touch up, this will allow you to keep your exhaust pipes from rusting out in three years. While you are replacing pipes spray the inside and outside before mounting on vehicle. Note clean the oil coating off the new pipes before coating with zinc primer.
Great Video on this treatment. You may like to point out that the lanolin rust treatment was and is used by the Navy. They have been using this to treat their ships to prevent rust on the interior and done yearly. I'm sure they may use it on their subs too. Let alone commercial ships. Lanolin is non toxic and all natural.
You sir, have the best videos about anti rust undercoatings 💯 Cheers
Very thorough. I have been personally undercoating my vehicles for years, and always trying something different. The old school of used motor oil and driving down a dusty road afterwards still works very well. Since dusty roads are hard to find today, I’ve experimented with spraying the oil coated metal with fine saw dust with a hand held sandblaster. Sounds funny but so far I’m liking it. This keeps it from dripping and makes it stay on longer. Internal surfaces need to be sprayed with something that creeps. But prior to that you need to blow out all the rust chucks that may be in there as they could shield the metal from the oil. I’ve also tried FF and recently surface shield. The bottom line is no matter what you use you must look at it once or twice a year. What you might have missed the first time you’ll catch the second time around. It’s a commitment. But also gives you a opportunity to take a look at everything. I agree though do not use anything that gets hard or does not creep in cavities or areas where two pieces of metal come together. Thanks for all the work you put into these videos, greatly appreciate it.
Right on! I've only been at this a few years, but just did 2 with bulk spray on fluid film, key is to get INSIDE those frame rails and other cavities just like you said.
used hydraulic oil doesnt corrode your rubber/plastic parts
Under the sludge the dust forms it continues rusting. I've destroyed cars!with this method of used motor oil then dust. It looks fine outside but under it it dissolves.
Guys can you please don't spray old used motor oil on the underside of your trucks ? That's really messed up for the groundwater. Just use wax and or fluid film which is way better for the groundwater.
@@ImplantedMemories I agree, we need more fracking done to get that nasty oil out of the ground before it gets into the water
I use the black fluid film on my Fusion. It’s such a pain in the ass removing all of the plastic covers under the car. The good part of having the plastic covers is that the car wash undercarriage spray doesn’t blast off all of the fluid film.
I'm sold. Going to try this on a few of the 'aging gracefully' vehicles. Thanks for the excellent info bud!
Great video! Thank you. This is easily one of the most informative videos that I have ever watched. You just gained a subscriber.
Totally agree with you on the GM Wax. Coated my 2015 Silverado with woolwax this past year. I'm in NE Ohio also, the factory wax was pretty much non-existent on the back half of the truck frame.
Gm is still dipping their higher end trucks in that wax.u can scrape it off with your fingernail.they say it penetrates inside of frame.who cares if it doesn't last
As a person who has watched your videos and applied these products for 3 years now, I appreciate this video. I literally stopped rust on my vehicles and yes you have to be on it every year especially in northern Ohio and anywhere salt is applied on the roads.
This is an excellent instruction video. I’ve seen other videos and this is the best. Thank you
This is badass, thank you!!! Gonna do this on my Pontiac while she's still good before she gets any problems. Her rockers are a different story, though. She lived near the salt lakes before I got her but everything else is great on her.
Superb! I’ve used Fluid Film for years, since 2008, and clean motor oil before that. FF / Surface Prep is very effective, & easy to apply. Once the initial application (getting all the nooks & crannies), yearly re-aplication is quick & easy. I only hit the high splash areas after the initial.
great video and info...
Great video! Lanolin is 100% the way to go. In contrast to this video, I do not spray external surfaces, but instead brush it on. Takes longer yes, but I use FAR less product and it's only where I want it and it's brushed throroughly into the surface which gives a better smoother result that looks much nicer, like a painted surface would. I cringed at all the spray on the brake rotors. Spraying makes an absolute mess, not only underneath of the vehicle, but everywhere else in your garage. If you're spraying with jack stands, you'll be 100% waterproof afterwards. I bought a 1 gallon can and 2 trucks and 2 cars later, the can still looks full. I spray internal areas with a spray can because I don't want to invest in the gun even though I have a complete compressor and gun setup for paint. Although a cheap gun might pay for itself because there's hardly any product in the spray cans for the price. Also, I always do my exhausts, manifolds, and even turbo exhaust housings. It's my favorite application areas. Yes, it will smoke some the first heat up, but by brushing the layer is very thin and spread even unlike spraying so burnoff is minimal and the result is clean and smooth. It doesn't burn completely off, but transforms the previously rusted metal into a smooth dark brown color which looks great and a transformation from before. It also tends to last much longer than non exhaust areas. I'm 4 years on initial application on my 4Runner's rusted exhaust and it looks the same despite regular pressure washing the underside thoroughly because I like my cars clean.
Any nuances to brushing it or is it pretty straight forward?
@@ProfessorDickify Pretty straightforward. Unlike painting where you need to evenly apply the paint, this is more like you're rubbing lotion into dry rough skin using a brush. You brush it in until it's even. I'd use the same stiff brush with lanolin product on it to even clean off flaking rust. Week later that rust would fall off and I'd reapply the lanolin to a now smoother surface. I never had to wire brush beforehand, just pressure wash. I use Ospho acid with a wire toothbrush on my brake rotors. Unlike lanolin, it's harmful to work with needing a respirator.
I heard cosmoline is better
Do u try to paint for extremely high temperature for exhaust ?
Sounds like your exhaust, manifold, etc is like how you season a cast iron pan
Excellent video!! Very well explained. You’ve given me the direction to go form my truck. Very much appreciated!!!!!
After watching a lot of videos, finally I found right one, thank you
perfect video long , hopefully I pass out from my drinking before the end , not to worry I always check history the next day and watch again.
How was the hangover? :P
He forgot to check his history…
that's what they do in Israel pass out from the drinking and never check their history the next day or the day after that.
Fantastic video. Great explanations. One question: Is it the same for corrosion on aluminum parts? The top of my driver’s side DSSV has paint flaking from salt exposure.
thank you very much ,excellent explanation and tips to maintain rust and stop it
Thanks a lot for your educative , maintenance information! 👍👍keep it up!
I'm doing a similiar treatment on my Volvo 240. It WAS pretty free from rust as the past owner always cleaned it and washed the underside after every winter due to roadsalt. Unfortunatley, it hasn't been on the road since I got it 5 years ago and has rusted.
Good point; people do not realize that metal does not stop rusting/corroding when you park it. If you have aluminum under parts, the salts and de-icers, and sand, affect these parts even worse than they do steel.
Great video! The only thing we do differently is , I heat my fluid film until it's very thin . It really wicks into everything. Fantastic stuff for a central PA winter .
How do you heat the product?
I do the same thing..you can just put it in front of a heater for a bit. Works great when you pour the Fluid Film in the spray can you are going to use and heat it up just a bit. It sprays way easier.
I'd also like to know how mike heats the fluid film
@@Gadget0343 I just take the bottles for the spray gun and drop them in a bucket of hot water. Give them 15 minutes and they are nice and thinned out.
@@GTkyle I sit my 5 gallon buckets in front of my waste oil furnace for a bit before I spray and I do mix it also.
Since buying the Woolwax spray kit, I now have started a routine in spring where I hose off and try to wash out all the salt and dirt as soon as I know they won’t be applying more on the roads. Then when it is time to change to summer wheels and tires, I tank out the fluid film and spray each corner as I do each wheel swap and hit the other general high rust areas. Plan on doing the same in the fall when it comes time to swap wheels again. Doesn’t take long to do and it keeps that protective layer fresh.
Bro is straight to the point. Good stuff
Great video ... I've been spraying motor oil my cars for 40 years and it works great ... none of my cars ever rust and the rust that's already there never gets worse with regular spraying ... the cavities in the outer body benefit greatly from the oiling and lasts along time because they r enclosed and water does not wash it off.. I spray everything underneath including the rubber stuff ... it rejuvenates old rubber parts including cv boots ball joints ...it also rejuvenates plastic bumpers and moldings...rejuvenates leather interiors and dashes.. I liked and subscribed and look forward to your next videi
What type of sprayer are you using?
@@retiredjedi6178 try a fertiliser sprayer. The one with the top manual air pump.
.breaking the law
@@PaddleDogC5 lol
Doesn’t the oil drip all over a garage floor?
Absolutely brilliant content. I've just purchased a 2009 x type Jaguar. It passed its MOT (I'm over the pond in Scotland) but had an advisory on the sills. Apparently, excessive rust on the sills is a common problem with this vehicle. Anyway, I was wondering - once I've had the body shop carry out the necessary repair and welding to the pinch weld and any serious corrosion - how I would protect the underside, and that's when I landed on your excellent tutorial. Whilst I'm not comfortable carrying out any mechanical repairs, I'm more than happy to tackle the time-consuming wire brush and application of protection tasks. Just didn't know where to begin, and now I have a much better understanding of the procedure. Thank you for sharing!
i wonder, being English or Scottish, how the American English must sound to you. As an American, it seems like it must be a little bit of a strain to speak and keep an English or Scottish accent; but of course this is false if all you have heard during developmental years is the Queen's and King's English or Scottish accent. I just wish I could hear it from your perspective. We do not get to choose the languages or accents we speak or have, anymore than we can choose our skin, eyes or hair color. English from the UK is pleasing to the American ear in my opinion (with several different accents in the UK) Faked English accents by American actors seem to be obvious to UK dwellers. On the other hand, faked American accent by English actors is generally quite convincing, with few noticeable slip ups. Daniel Craig's southern USA slow drawl English in Knives Out is quite convincing.
I am a Brit , Welsh by birth , but most of my life I have not lived in Wales . My welsh accent , slight accent though it is.returns once I arrive in Wales , even without speaking to anyone .... strange but true ! There many , many , Brit accents and some times I do not understand every word I hear ! When I am in the company of Americans I find myself grinning a lot as there as so many words that have very different meanings ; I just find it amusing I am not looking down on anyone's use of language . I took my family to Disney years ago and after a couple of hours it started to rain . Near by there was a lovely older lady , who was working , looking after kids doing drawing 'lessons' . I wanted a cigarette , so I left the kids with her and explained that I would be in sight and that I was off for a fag . Well that shocked the lady , horror in her face shock ! So that started a conversation that was highly enjoyable for all of us and we all learnt some lessons ! Lol . Diversity in our language is a blessing in my opinion . ATB and HYN @@troy3456789
In light of this video and of all the comments bellow, I am sure that sprayable cavity waxes are the way to go. I also used in the past a thick layer of lithium based vassline and the chassis lasted as new for over 20 years.
Thanks for the good video. Nothing like a good thick oil that stays flexible and gets into the seams. I made a spray for my undercoating gun from differential oil, a wax toilet seal and a bit of solvent. I heated it in a water bath so it could blend, mixed it thoroughly and sprayed it in my rockers, door bottoms, and anywhere else it might protect. I placed cardboard anywhere it might drool out (just a little bit). One year and winter later in Canada (salted roads) and the residue is still there and has not washed off (even where hit with the pressure washer). It definitely has slowed the rust on my 2004 Toyota Echo.
I agree with what your saying about cosmoline but I think it's superior to lanolin products on the fronts of control arms and the outsides of frames where it doesn't wash off but also where there arent cavities for it to become trapped. I think a combination of cosmoline on high wear areas and fluid film/ surface shield inside cavities and harder to reach areas is the "best" in my opinion but it depends on vehicle type, condition, and your personal situation.
I agree. On exposed high water contact areas it's hard to beat. I try to use 1 one size fits all approach because it's easier to justify buying 1 product over 2 and it makes the spray process easier because you're not switching products depending on where you're spraying.
I used to work at a undercoating garage some 30 years ago. First we would use the pressure washer to remove the rust, salt and sand from dirt road. Then we would coat the rust whit rust converter then again with the pressure washer to neutralize the converter. Next was thin film lanoline for 1 year warranty or heavy rubberized rubber for 10 year warranty whit top coating of lanoline every 2 years. The worst part of the job was spending the day in full protective gear whit respirator.
Yep, after thoroughly degreasing the are you want to treat, you need to apply a phosphoric acid rust converter to the rusted areas (keeping the areas "wet" with rust converter for at least 30mins (in warm weather - longer when cool/cold). After that wash with water and allow to dry then spray with an epoxy primer paint that preferably has a zinc phosphate additive. Then spray on a coating of stone chip preventative.
my first truck that I got when i was 18, I've been spraying with 2 can of Fluid Film every fall, and it has no major rust anywhere. I live in Canada where we salt the roads like crazy too. Its super easy, I do it myself, and costs maybe $30 per year.
I've used danish oil or linseed oil, just painted on. Heard of it being done traditionally, and obviously it's quite cheap. It was a bit of a last ditch effort on my first car, I've since sold it but last i checked it was still on the road. It has solvents so displaces water on the frame and soaks into surface rust well, but it does cure somewhat so is at least a bit resistant to washing off. I remember being quite impressed with how the water beaded off it.
Thanks for the great informative video. One thing I'd like to add to the "no carwash" principle... It should be perfectly fine for the lucky cars you've taken care of. But if you're working on a new (old) waxing candidate, wouldn't it be a good idea to wash thoroughly after chipping off old paints and before applying wax? That is because, obviously, you never know what's been trapped underneath the dead paint layer. Namely salt, of course. In that very same vein, my preferred method of rust removal is actually pressure washing cause it does several things at once: remove loose rust and paint, remove salt, and pre-wet the surface (wax manufacturers typically boast "water-substituent" properties AFAIK so I assume it won't hurt to have water in micro gaps before applying wax). It's a pretty messy process, like "get full PPE yet get dirty anyway" situation that I don't enjoy, but could withstand for the sake of longevity of the ride you love. Also, I'm curious to see your take on not just traditional paint vs. wax, but traditional paint vs. sacrificial (zinc) paint vs. other primers vs. wax. Speaking of which, I love what you've done to the Mustang. P.S. congratulations!
I would advise to steam spray , dry thoroughly before scraping loose rust and debris , then applying the lanolin .
Thanks for your time great video.Clear and to the point👍👍
Thank you so much. I will be fixing rusted body parts on my 2008 F-150 truck. It' need an undercoating badly. But, by looking at your video, i know i can do it. Winter is harsh in Quebec.
Thanks for posting the vids. I've learned a ton!!!! What do you normally charge for providing this service?
I'm in the UK this is a very professional and well thought out video. Great if you have a car made before around 2005 but if you have newer I wouldn't bother as my experience says an electronic or other issue that is too expensive to repair will kill the car long before the rust does. But for those of us who now use older vehicles thanks very much this is great information.
Unless it's Toyota/Lexus 4Runner, GX, LX, Land Cruiser, Tacoma, Tundra, etc. These can last forever, but the frames rust.
@@jdesmo1 yes agree I only have toyota or old school subaru these days
@@jdesmo1 not accurate... All cars with their overly designed electronics...drive by wire and sensors to fail... Early 2000s is the peak of Japanese automotive design... Variable valve timing is the second reason for failures
@@jdesmo1 yep up here in the rust belt, their tube frames rot out long before they die mechanically. Because those tube frame have no drain holes. They rot from the inside out, due to the moisture ( condensation ) that builds up inside them over time, especially in the cold climates.
This is the Bible of rust undercoating! Thanks so much for doing this.
Very well put and informative video. My Rav 4 Hybrid mostly is plastic shields underneath but was thinking of spraying some Krown
For years I've handled rust in the following way: Scrape off the loose stuff. Wash and let dry. Apply a rust convertor. Then I apply por 15 followed by rustoleum paint. Every couple years I go back and reapply por 15 and rustoleum. I usually only add the rustoleum on surfaces exposed to sunlight. It's worked fairly well on my older vehicles. I've never seen por 15 come off in big chips like you suggested. Mostly I see the rustoleum flake off. I'm not stopping the rusting process completely but I've slowed it way down. You're dead right about the frame interiors. Sadly, many who restore old vehicles don't seem to take that into consideration. I bought some spray cans of Fluid Film recently and will try it out when the weather warms up. NOT going to try to remove years and layers on the other stuff I used. Will just spray on top of it and hope for the best.
Por-15 eventually "pops" and let's moisture & air under it. Just spraying Fluid Film over it will just allow the rust process to be hidden from sight. I had a shop do a rust repair, and they covered it with por-15 after welding in a patch piece. It was the only area that rusted after 1 winter. I had sprayed the car with a lanolin oil like I normally do. All the other areas have remained rust free. So I'm no all that impressed with por-15. It suffers all the same issues the rubberized undercoating have when driven on salted roads.
@@williamallen7836 Yep, Por -15 will not stay on no matter how much prep you do before applying. No 'hard coating' will remain impervious with all the vibration that it has to endure.
Incredibly good and informative videos from Garage Geek. Even here in Sweden our cars are bathed in lakes of salt during the winter. Wish they had a really good video on a home produced blend that worked as well as Fluid film. Saw in another episode how well cooking oil and vaseline worked. The question is what happens to cooking oil when it starts to oxidize on its own. Will it increase the rust instead?
Never heard of using cooking oil. I did see someone melting vaseline then mixing in transmission fluid. The mix is poured inside of doors until it begins dripping from drain holes. It gels up filling any areas that may have held water... I drive a tuned 9-3 for a second vehicle in Michigan. Fun little car to drive.
Yo brother, I’m over here in Gothenburg 🇸🇪 and I’m trying to save my Impreza WRX. It failed besiktning today due to rust on the sway arms 😢 Did you find any products over here?
Hey Nordic dudes, check out the linseed based rustproofing cans from Biltema. Boiled linseed oil is probably the best creeping oil initially when sprayed and then polymerizes into a waxy consistency when 'hardened'. Sort of the best of both worlds: really good creeping ability and also pretty much immune to everything you can throw at it when polymerized - water spray and car washes wont rinse if off, it's even resistent to harsh solvents like gasoline to a degree...
Super helpful! Thanks!!!
Awesome explanation. Thanks. Gonna give this a try next month.
Wow man thanks, this is probably the most thorough video explanation I've ever come across of how the rust works on the vehicle surfaces. I'm an engineer and some of the things you put into words are things that I inherently knew by my experience working with rust which is why I wasn't a fan of trapping the rust with another product like POR15 or undercoating. I have somewhat older vehicles so even in the visible areas that start rusting, since I don't care to have the pretty surface i'd rather have bare metal treated with some rust converter like Skunk Rust or Rust Kutter that I can keep spraying and see what is happening. I hate the idea of seeing a pretty surface only to know that it's a time bomb because it's rotting out underneath. -- So based on your explanation, your frequency recommendation is essentially once a year treatment, is that accurate? -- Thanks again!
Generally speaking once a year will work. It depends on the environment that the vehicle lives in. If you're using the vehicle to plow snow and spread salt sooner applications may be required.
@@RepairGeekis this undercoating much better than fluid film?
Awesome video! Love ur scientific approach to things lol. Question to all my car gurus: how do you feel about spraying the undercarriage with Rustolium paint or similar after scrubbing the rust off, and before spraying oil? Would that still trap moisture underneath ? I feel leaving scrubbed steel exposed is not a good idea. Petroleum will eventually wear off half way through winter, wouldn't?
I don't know, but the explanation in the beginning of the video sounds pretty spot on. I much prefer the chance that an oil application of some sort once a year would work much better than paint. On heavy equipment, a thick paint that has regular maintenance might do well on bulky metal, but with so many small parts on a car, I just don't see paint being easy to maintain without slapping it all over small moving parts and the built up layers would become a mess after a few years of reapplication. In other words, spot treating with paint wouldn't be as easy as just giving it a new coat of oil every year.
That was one of the most well done educational videos on all of You Tube! You covered everything and then some! Well done!
Thanks for the information , very informative. Great job on presentation.
Excellent video. Dollar for dollar fluid film is the best. After a couple years of repeat applications it will thicken up. Makes a frame happy.