The SIMPLE Trick If You Don't Have A Paint Booth!
In this video I will reveal to you the most simplest of tricks to use when painting a car to get a beautiful clean paint job. This trick will benefit those that do not have a paint booth that are looking to get that smooth clearcoat finish! Don't wait any longer, hit that play button to get started!
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Hi Fellas, just a quick word about this video and the title used. When you watch the full video you'll learn some tricks along the way that will greatly help you if you don't have a paint booth. This video was filmed in a paint booth but the methods and expert tips explained in this video are geared toward those that might be spraying in their garage. Make sure you watch the full video before posting a comment.
What do you mean the k800 cuts at a peep what does that have to do with a 600 your comment is undistinguishable
Are you familiar with the k series ?
@@PaintSociety not yet
@@PaintSociety I know the difference between the grits of material and wet sanded many times before but it's just the comment was confusing
@@joey.g go back and watch my video “what sandpaper do I choose” I did a full explanation. If you’re new to the channel then perhaps that might be why you are confused.
Hey Brian I commented a couple months ago about being 19 and running my own small shop and told you how much you’ve helped me. As of yesterday I got a job offer from my local Chrysler dealership to be the head painter at age 20 I swear I’ve learned more from you than any class I took thank you so much Brian because of what you’ve taught me just over KZhead I’m moving up in the world thank you
Good on you Jason.
Talent has no age. You got 20 solid years ahead of you before painting starts to tell your body to slow down. If your making flat rate you can easily make 6 figures. I done it in the 90s. Takes a toll on you tho. In a volume shop its all about the color match. Get that down and you will see less then 5 cars come back on ya per year. You will become legendary in your community for quality. Good luck!
Congrats! So awesome to hear that
A bake helps with the finish also.
@@careykuhn9174 your exactly right there. I've painted and done collision and mechanic work since high school but being 42 now my back and knees are wrecked to the point where I had to stop doing body work and painting completely and I have to becareful on what mechanic jobs I do. It sucks having all the knowledge from 25 years of experience and my body has stopped me from doing what I love. Having to start over and find a new line of work at this point in life is not what I ever thought I'd have to do and it's no fun. So to young man who originally commented, dont take it for granted and make the most out every opportunity.
I have been painting for 40 plus years. I never took a class for paint or body. I have worked for a couple of body shops that did high-end work and learned by example. Brian is right one with his advice. His blend techniques and clear application videos have been very helpful for me to get grat turnouts. Especially with the tri coats. Brian is the best teacher . He is very good at explaining exactly what he intens to do. His best advise is that when you prep or paint, you are in control of your turnout. Just relax, follow your plan of attack, and focus on your application. I painted show winning 64 Chevy on a dirt floor garage. Controlling your inviroment is everything when spraying your project. Thanks! From Tom in Wisconsin.
Thank you for the advice 👍
Great video. I’ve painted many cars as a hobbyist, but seeing the pros do it makes it look far easier than it really is. Patience is number 1!
Always admire people who know about paint. For many of us, it's a complete mystery.
Your tips and tricks have helped me out so much. They made me better at body work and paint on my last three home paint jobs. Keep up the great content, thanks Brian. I'm currently flattening clear on my latest 86 mustang convertible project after flow coating. The Kovax green 2000 buflex disks really help get out those straight line 2000 grit wet/ dry scratches before compound.
I appreciate the fact that he didn't interrupt the flow of paint the moment he pressed the trigger of the paint gun. A few years ago I was at a garage of an old friend of dad's, who had been doing car paint jobs for over 40 years, and he was telling a youngster who had just started working for him and he was doing some practice, that the trick to a perfect layer is to not stop pressing the trigger
I'm on an Elcamino project and have gotten in way over my skills. I'll be watching you for the next decade!
Great insights for the DIY guys, much appreciated. One thing I notice with all the pros especially spraying clear is the overlap. It's so much more than "textbook".
Thanks for all the tips 🙏🏽 finally said F it and decided to spray my entire car inside my a garage and it came out pretty dang good!
I have been doing this for over 20 years on my first coat of base. I use 1000 or if I find an area that needs more attention I use 800. It saves time with nib sanding and buffing. Does a great job to help you get the perfect paint job.
That's a smooth slippery paint job there, I'm been garage car painting for 30+ yrs or so... I remember a paint shop seller telling me this trick when I started way back then, I'm glad I seen this video as I had forgotten it long ago . !
First time watching one of your videos! I have been painting 40 years and never tried this but it makes sense! I am a firm believer in wanting to have as little finish work as possible after the clear is dry. I have to try this trick! I have learned many tricks of the trade over 40 years but this one is new to me! Thanks for the video and I will be watching more of yours. You do a very good job making your videos and expalining what is being done without unrelated crap and staying on point. I not only paint vehicles but was a professional photographer. From one pro to another...GREAT JOB!
thanks so much! its usually the guys with all your experience that are never open to learning so kuddos to you!
@Johnny Hot Rod Have you tried it yet, you will be surprised at what this does.
surprise to here, I also painted for 47 years and learned that in the first year of professionally painting, but with lacquer, and outdoors, otherwise I'd have a shit load of dust after the first 5 coats of color, # 6 was after the scuff, then after was the 50, 50, half clear half color, then one third paint, 2/3 clear for another coat, then no paint just clear for 3 more coats. then I had enough to sand any imperfections and buff/polish. It looks good on metallic's it gives its depth. like reading the 40Wats label in the neon light overhead type of depth.
@@jeanraymond281that’s depth
Brian took me from spray painting touch up to buying light wrecks and repainting them. This guy is better than u realize, listen to him!
Hey Brian,😀 you are the best please do not stop your videos as you are the Master Painter for millions of peoples that do the job at their own garage.
I am a newbie to auto painting and I find your videos very informative. With vids like this, I will be able to maintain my 2005 Merc looking new. Of course, you make it all look so easy but, you're a pro. If I lived in your neck of the woods, you would get all my business.
Brian covered this topic flawlessly. Always a good idea to use some rattle can etch primer or UV primer on cut throughs. Basecoat does not adhere to bare metal very well. Ill add a few more tips. If your painting an overall and have a few new panels and or bumpers along with some repair work...I would seal complete, let it tack, put 2 coats color let it flash, then light wet sand complete...wiping dry as you go. Use the same flex pad as Brian does here and make sure keep your fingers closed together and not much pressure. Wet sanding does take longer but prevents paper clogging and does a better job at leveling the color. Too much pressure on the pad will leave finger impressions in you color. For a trophy winning job...after sanding and cleaning, lay down 3-5 more coats of color inspecting and lightly nibbing in between. Color does not add much film build especially if using water base. At a microscopic level you can see how the droplets from multiple coats overlap each other as the color flows out and flashes leaving a perfectly level surface to clear. Flash time is ultra important in this type of job so know your metal temp and use the correct reducer for the job. When you clear use a high quality clear and a gun with the highest transfer efficiency you can get your hands on. Again for trophy winning final job lay down 6 coats clear doubling flash between each consecutive coat. Correct gun setup and technique will lay the clear out slick but the real objective here is getting the material on the project without overapplying anywhere. All catalyzed products shrink as they dry...so no matter how Lazer straight your bodywork is and how well the rest of the steps were done to create the straightest panel possible, urethane clear coat shrink will cause wave (light refraction) in the final finish. So get the clear on the project let it dry and shrink over the next few days or week then block sand starting at 800 working through the grits all the way through the trizac 3000 and 5000. Be familiar with the characteristics of the clear your using. Some clears like ceramic clear is better to cut and buff sooner than later. But most of your high quality clears can wait a day or 3 for complete shrink before cut. If you cut before clear is done shrinking you just wasted alot of time. All of these extra steps do not apply to everyday collision repair work.
I'm a noob.. whats "nibbing" "flashes" and "flash time"? You said "at a microscopic level you can how the droplets from multiple coats overlap each other as the color flows out and flashes leaving a perfectly level surface to clear" So does this mean the droplets never disappear when the other coats are applied over them, and that this flashing levels the droplets.. that they can still be seen but will be come level? If this is what you mean.. does this also mean one doesnt need to sand the droplets or sand them too much that the extra coats will smooth them out?
6 coats of clear in one go? LOL
@James of all things laugh all you want brother. Several top names in the custom industry use this method. Charlie Hutton comes to mind.Double your flash time between each consecutive coat. Urethane based products always shrink and cause light refraction wave in the final dried product so the concept is to get all the material on there in one sitting...knowing that you have to let it fully cure before cutting to buff anyway. Start with 600 wet block and block it out just like Bodywork. Work out to at least 3000 before starting the polishing process. Other methods work such as lay down 3 coats at a time then block, then wrap up and put 3 more, then block and polish but this takes far longer, cost more and has the potential for an inferior final finish due to the base layer of clear and your 2nd layer of clear drying at different rates. If you like what your doing and it works for you, then keep doing it. I personally like more efficient methods that yield higher quality finishes.
@@jesusiscoming.readthegospe9184 God's gay. What does he have to do with painting? I know gods urr Co pilot while driving does he hold urr hose while u spray paint? Go share on a religious video.
I was taught to wipe in one direction, otherwise the rag is dragging dirt in both directions and leaving it behind. Go in the same direction while overlapping and you get all the dust and dirt. Beautiful work!
Sounds plausible.
Great videos. Even at 53. Im.learning tips on welding and painting for my many bike and car projects. Thanks for your clean and simple tips
I've been working in IT all my life; I'm a network specialist in an American corporation, but I live in Poland. At the age of 49, I became interested in painting (it runs in the family - my grandparents had an automotive paint shop with a oven room to dry car's ). It started innocently; I have a motorcycle - I decided to do it myself. Currently, I have a Wacom Eo Carbonio 190 1.2 spray gun - and painting brings me a lot of joy, allowing me to unwind after work in IT with clients. I didn't realize how much satisfaction and pleasure this profession brings. Do you think 49 years is too late to learn this? With age, I have more humility, patience, and precision - which are desirable here. Thanks for the videos - I enjoy watching them.
You’re only halfway there bud why stop learning now
You're never too old to learn a new skill
Been painting since 99, learned something new... thanks, lately been painting cement mixers in the dustiest shop known to man! Love this idea!!
I paint motorcycles. For my last Harley, I built a 6 foot high painting booth in my backyard on the grass using one inch PVC pipe and heavy plastic drop cloths. So easy to do, easy to use, easy to clean up. Couple that with these tips and you are good to go.
I have a Miata I want to repaint but no booth or garage. The pipe and plastic sheet idea is exactly what I’ve planned to do. Even on a small scale, because I plan to paint in sections.
Great vid mate, keep em coming! I was wondering if you have considered making a video comparing the differences between single stage and 2 stage solid colour spraying? Preparation, application, hardening etc as well as when and where you would benefit by using either system. I think that would make a great vid, and you are definitely the man to do it. Peace!
With your advise from all ur videos i painted a 2002 fordescape mtallic blue after i put two hoodscoops on it. No its not perfect and i never painted a car before but it turned out really well and ive gotten quite a few compliments and i owe it all to you brian. U are one awesome teacher and we all appreciate u down here in folkston ga. Okeefenokee swamp.
I do it the same way Brian, kind of discovered it by accident. I use to do base and clear in one day and base intercoat and clear until one day I did base and got tired, came back 3 days later, went over it with fine grit, put a coat of base back on and noticed at the end it did infact look better
I painted my first car 30 years ago using a "How to Paint Your Hot Rod" book. It suggested Acrylic Lacquer back then for the beginner, but you had to do this very thing and buff it all before clear coat. They made it seem that you couldn't do this with other types of paint to correct mistakes. The tech has come a long way for a beginner to get a great finish.
Lacquer was garbage. Chipped like crazy. It was introduced for small repairs only but then everyone liked it for front ends and sides cause it dried quickly and you could polish and deliver the vehicle the same day. If you didn’t polish through or run into a previous painted panel that would wrinkle all to hell. Used it but hated it as well.
Perfect! This is such a great channel. Thank you, for taking me along. I'm sure it takes a ton of your time.
Tons!!
I also watch Bad Chad
I have always been a firm believer in prep work but even with a great paint job I tend to always find a mark… such finesse when u spray, I enjoyed watching & intend on getting some Kovax k-800 sheets❤️
I just want to comment that this video was very well put together. You didn't waste time with overlong segments and i got a clear picture of what you were showing. Thank you. subscribed
Keep in mind for anyone painting their car, there's certain base coats out there that will have adhesion problems with the clear if you do sand it. So make sure you are using a basecoat that allows sanding.
Don’t agree, the next coat of the same product will blend with the first, once dry the same resins in the base are in the clear, they call it Marrying. It’s the Resins that come to the surface once dry that gives you adhesion. 1000gr is best, 800 can leave scratches you won’t see until clears applied.
I don't know ,I've even sprayed clear over just black primer, and it works great.
Damn, was starting to ask about sanding flake base coat, and you answered my question while I was typing. I just recently found your channel when using duplicolor to paint some fiberglass on my truck. I'm done with the painting but I keep coming back to your videos because you're obviously a master of your craft and I'm always happy to learn from a pro. Thank you for your dedication to sharing your experience and knowledge!
Thanks ! Good luck with your projects !
I have a 91 Ef Civic hatch. Built turbo motor. Cars in decent shape. It will def be my forever car. Me and the car are both 30. Never dived into body work. When I get a place with a garage I'm gonna take it down to bare metal and restore it. Videos like this are a huge help thanks man.
hi sir.aspiring painter here and thankyou so much for your tips,guides and tutorials. i hope i can apply properly what youve taught 😅 cause im only starting with my small place but your tutorials inspired me. thankyou so much sir. a big fan here from the philippines 🇵🇭
Hey mr Brian thanks so much for the videos. I have learnt a lot from your channel and you are probably the best teacher I have come across on KZhead Thank you for the effort you put in for us to be a better sprayer. I also want to request that you do a video on spot repair blow in on the back bumper of a car .it will be much appreciated. I have watched a number of videos but it's still not clear and I believe you are gonna explain better
Trying my best. It’s not easy but doing my best
@@PaintSociety * That's a Great Philosophy for Life in General , Dawg !
Hi Brian, another brilliant job and so informative as usual! Thank you so much for sharing your great skill and I hope you and your family have a great Christmas and prosperous & healthy 2022 🎅🏼
Merry Christmas !
Great to see that you are spreading some very useful and usable tips for those less experienced and without the full facilities, there are to many self taught would be pros giving what they call best practices which are anything but, so a refreshing change!, great tips and great technique, nice to see a fellow pro at work!
It’s v been painting cars for 23 years and I’m always interested in what guys are doing…I like using my orbital for nib sanding with 1000g 3m film, water can be sanded as long as it is totally dry! Looks great man.
Great to see a relevant video, we have a Mazda3 to paint and we just made a plastic tent to keep weather out
Hey, it'll work
I clicked on this one real quick my guy. I'm looking to do this next year. No booth, no garage. Plan on building a makeshift tent just to spray my 95 Mustang GT. 👍🍻
Do it man - that's what I did last year. PVC pipes and plastic sheeting, fan at one end and filters at the other for positive pressure, looked ridiculous but worked great!
or buy yourself a couple 12ft easy ups put harbor freight drop cloths around it works great. Or a blow up spray booth off amazon just a bit more money. works great but still get some dust.
@@grimson The pvc/plastic booth is great. I used that method to paint the integra on my channel phoenix yellow
When i was 12 my dad I painted our 75 chevy 4x4 pickup on the side of the house. We made a lean to tent of the side if the house with 2x4s and heavy mil plastic it worked great
Man I wanna do the same learn on my dodge caravan that I bought of my mom ..I fucked that up ...and then move on to my Chevy impala finish on my Bmw....I need this bro... One of us has to come true..good luck..both of can come true too....
Awesome to see a pro like you using this method bro we just did a complete on a Acura last week and we always do this to get that cleaner job. Those k 800 are amazing but expensive
This guy is way underrated!! Thanks been painting for years but still learning and using your tips!!
Great tip. I used to have a sandpaper scrooge at one place I worked. He was always complaining that we should use the paper longer before switching it out. Annoyed the heck out of everyone that worked there. The only real thing he had to complain about was how much acetone we were using. Which was because most of the guys working there were taking home gallon jugs of it all the time. Car turned out excellent, nice job!
Thanks Bruce !
Yeah our shop used to go thru brake cleaner like that. Still does, but it used to,too. 😆
I really love seeing the base coat coming to life with the clear coat, it’s beautiful 🤩 to my eyes 👀 Anyoldwho, i used to be a spray painter in the late 70s early 80s , everything was cellulose clear coat hadn’t been invented,i was lucky 🍀, I was what was called a wet painter, and prided myself with finishes that never needed sanding and polishing, just a coat of wax. Those were the best days of my life and I didn’t realise it. Awesome video man, I’m still learning, even at 65 lol 😂
Do you have any insight on fading topcoat paint on an 86 Mazda RX7? Cellulose?
me too,i always called myself"hoser" if it anit wet,it wasnt going to shine back then
65 I am 65 and am holding a gun and painting my friend. I won’t retire
@@eddieroy1682 o just got an image of a 65 year old man standing in front of an easel, his friend modelling for him on the other side and the artist has a paintbrush in one hand and a pistol in the other
Did bodywork and painting for over 40 years. One of my paint jobs was in a 4-wheeler magazine in 2000. No extra money but it did give me bragging rights.
Thank you for this. You one of that guys that makes me love KZhead. God bless you brother
Just the throw away line about prepainting the roof was worth the video. I have never painted a car-been watching these videos though. If there is good demarcation of the roof then I would totally do the roof first and mask it off. It just never occurred to me until you mentioned it.
Great work Brian 👍🏼 please keep including the paint codes and name of the colors in the description 🍻
Is. That. Henry. J Looks. Great.
I'm not a painter and even I can tell this guy knows what he's talking about. --- Thanks for sharing your experience. --
Great video. If I were not so old, I might try to do it. I studied collision repair when I was younger but life got in the way when I got to spraying.
I'm old and have painted about 100 cars/trucks never with a paint booth.. just clean (blow off) the garage.. and wet the floor before painting.. I kept a couple of old fans near the door and got good results for a non-custom painter.
Fans blowing in or out? Single stage? I plan doing this in some kind of canopy. Not sure if I want fumes in my attached garage.
The result is stunning!! Amazing job Brian!!
Can’t wait to see it all done😀
@@PaintSociety oh yeah your channel is one of the best if not the best paint channels, very detailed
This method can be used with water base paints. The key rule being allowing appropriate flash/dry time. Some solvents can be troublesome when doing this also. Check your tech sheet and see if adding an activator to your base coat will help with sanding that second coat of color and not have problems. Just a little FYI from an old skool painter.
Great content Brian. I can't wait to do my first paint job over the next few weeks
My grandfather used to teach me that trick . He used 0000 woolpads on non metallic bases. Like you did. Gr8 video. Thank you brother!
I use this technique on blends that are too close to the next panel. But with finer grit. Let's me blend with as little as 4 inches to the next panel. My blend passes are done up and down and not side to side. On larger blends I use the top of my fan to blend with in an arching motion. You don't get the moteling and halo effect.
Blending vertically instead of horizontal I guess is a European thing. I learned that from a very experienced painter and use this technique on blends as well. Always comes out great!
Great tips Brian, I'm about to give this a shot spraying the smoothed out firewall on my cutlass in my garage. First time painting anything on my car of this caliber. Hoping it turns out good with following your vids. Thanks !!
You do the same thing with painting cars that I do on painting houses, for a smooth finish on trim with a gloss coat I tend to roll it on really fast and then smooth that out before I hit it with the brush that gives it the really smooth look that some people like. Plus for complex or curved trim I will use the sponge version of a sandpaper because it Contours how I choose and makes the Finish perfect. You fellow freaking Craftsman perfectionist, keep sharing your tips in your videos while I share them with people I run into. Together this world will be a better place.😁
Absolutely best guy, he helped me a ton and I’ll be forever grateful. He help me huge on a Tri coat red blend on a Infiniti. Thanks for the help brother, Matt
Another thing you could also do that works really well is spray your base coat, put two coats of inter coat clear, sand it the same way you did in this video then go straight over it with clear coat. It gives it a semi flow coat effect and you can skip the step of going back over it with another coat of color base coat after you sand/denib it.
Could you explain what flow coat means
@@danzo5521 it is where after you clear coat your car you let it sit for a few days, re-sand the clear with 600grit, then put another 2 coats of clear coat on it. Here is a link in one of my videos from my channel where I break it down and show you how to do it. kzhead.info/sun/lcqYYJqXrJ9vfK8/bejne.html
@@amosautomotivepaintrestora1948 thanks
May God bless you and all those who share goodness, effecting lives of people and public, may god reward you multi fold...for your goodness at heart.
Back home here we shoot cars in makeshift carport booths and flow coating your base coat before clear is always an good trick!! Also this works well to get smoother finishes with singel stage paints as well!
Hello Brian, I've just started watching your videos and you got my attention, you make it very clear on what needs to be done. But I have one question regarding the sanding: I couldn't see if you sprayed a fine metallic paint, so the question is can you sand fine metallic paint as you indicated in your video? Thank you!
1000 grit, 1 to 1 1/2 coat after.
Enjoy the work and content you provide Brian. I do have a question on this particular paint job. I was under the impression that Milano Red was a tri-coat paint job and that the clear had some kind of tint to give it it's final look and finish, or has the paint formula changed? Again, thanks for the content and information you provide.
I can't speak to this color exactly, because I can't remember shooting it, but I can tell you that, for Ford RR (ruby red),the OMNI/Deltron formula is a tri-coat, but the Matrix formula is just base/clear. So, it could have something to do with the paint line he's spraying.
I really appreciate your advice. You're a great teacher. My Dad was a painter back in the day and he would have liked to see you paint.
Aww thank you !!
Had to jump in and say thanks. Where we live is remote in northern Ontario Canada and my truck to get painted at the closet paint place is $ 18300. I prep the body work. I'm not st how they came to this price but I told them they must be nut's. Thanks to your video ☺️☺️☺️ I'll be doing my truck it's a chev Silverado HD in the next few weeks. Your video gave me the confidence. Where can I send a pic or small video of how watching you has saved my family thousands. Your a rock star. Respect from Beardmore Ontario Canada
Thank you for the tips! I am just starting painting... I'm realizing there is a difference between sand paper brands. Sunmight 1500 will cut as fast as Harbor Freight 1200. Thanks for giving us a bit more detail and insight to your reasoning behind your decisions.
Another thing to watch out for on sandpaper is that with alot of the cheap paper you start to see the dust clumping together in spots and not only does it make you go through paper faster it can lead to defects in your work if you arent careful.
Two of the most expensive things you will buy are cheap sandpaper and cheap electrical tape.
@@dsSpitfiremk4 So true- cheap is very expensive!
@@dsSpitfiremk4 LOL - Yup, same as cheap brass tees for frost free hydrants. No fun digging them out of six foot trenches to find the leak.
creased masking paper is a gathering place for dust particles, same goes for masking tape and generally the bottom/bottom side of the car , the wheels/break discs, wheelhouses , so preparation is king: no paper creases anywhere, wet your floors, walls if you can, dust off your clothes, sift the paint, move slowly no jerking around, wipe off the gun and hose - basically do what cosmetic surgeons do but multiply it by 100 when it comes to dust avoidance. these are just the basics. also remember: sanding metallic base coat with high flake ratio will result in less brilliant reflections due to te translucent nature of the paint itself
I painted my 68 Ford Torino back in 1980 with Dupont Centari Acrylic Enamel. Solid color, red. I could not find a gold tape strip like the car came with, so I masked off the strip and painted it on using Dupont Gold. All came out very nice, but that was several years ago. We don't drive the car much and it stays inside, so the paint has not faided or chalked at all, but there are spots where there was rust starting to show. I cannot get Dupont Centari now and so I am thinking that maybe I would sand and repaint the entire car after fixing the bad spots again. maybe this time, base coat/clear coat. Can I apply the base coat, wait a day or two and mask off the strip and paint it, pull off the masking around the strips and then clear coat the entire car? Or do I clear coat the base color and after that is dry, mask and paint on the strip on each side or maybe look for a strip tape kits somewhere? I have always loved seeing good paint jobs. Anyone can have something chromed, but not everyone does great paint jobs.
Great tips here. Correct it in the base for sure. Picking something out of clear is a slippery slope and almost never works out. I have learned a lot of from you bro. Your words , Its just paint, run through my head when I get tense about the paint job outcome. Thanks LittleO
First time on the channel. I had a '94 Honda Civic for MANY years. I'd recognize that body style in any paint theme. Knew it as soon as the vid started.
Howzit Brian. Velesh here from South Africa. Love your channel. Painted my van last month after watching your videos. The one thing I noticed is that you can have the best gun the best spray technique the best air compressor but if u have bad lighting u put yourself at a disadvantage and that was my downfall. Love your channel. Thanks
I used to spray in a "dirty garage"... it's all I had available. I found that if I shot... oh maybe 1/8th of a gun or even a little less into the air in the garage, essentially making the dust in the garage "sticky enough" to stick to the walls, floor and ceiling... then walking away for a few minutes and then coming back in, tacking the car one more time and then painting it... my dirt in the paint jobs completely disappeared!
I don't understand this comment. Shoot some paint into the air like you would an air freshener. Come back 5 minutes later and the dust will be on the walls and ceiling but not on the car? How does that work?
@@nascentalike he said, it makes the Dust stick to the walls and floor instead of ( hopefully ) on the vehicle you are painting.
Loved it when you opened up the fan and wet it on. Nice gloss
Thank you so much for this tip. I was having serious problems this way and now I know why.
Good for standard basecoat and non metallics. With 800 you need to put 2 coats on top otherwise sanding marks will be seen. Forget about water base, at least most of them. You can only denib with 2000 and some form of lubrication (silicone remover or water if it is totaly dry). But even that makes the base lay out very oddly depending on the color. But for solid colors yes a very usefull tip
Agree
sanding the base before your last coat is almost always not a bad idea. Also after putting down 2 coats of clear wait 24 hours and sand and recoat it. OMG Makes a big difference. Eliminates shrinkage or dieback. I do 2 coats of clear sand with 800 then reclear (some guys call this flow coat.)
I would love to just flow coat most my work. Much better on the buffer, you’re 100% right Mike.
Shrinkage doesnt happen because of the clearcoat. Its all stages of paint sinking into the repair. So more clear is only just hiding a dodgy repair and it is more paint to shrink and cause delamination issues down the line due to over application. Best way to elimate shrinkage....isolate the repair and prime it properly. Double prime if you have to. Flows coats are good and give an amazing gloss, but shouldn't be used as a prevention for shrinkage. That issue needs addressed well before the lacquer is mixed. If you use a UHS clear you shouldn't need to flow coat anyway
@@nathancarruthers254 I realize what your saying in theory but experience tells me that the second coat of clear really makes a difference. and whatever shrinkage there is is covered up by that second coat of clear. I have used all sorts of primers. epoxy primer as sealer and still there is some degree of shrinkage. UHS clears. 59% solids and Putting down that flow coat can turn a home job into a full custom show paint job. In theory your right but like I said I have painted in the hundreds somewhere near thousands of cars. Back in the 80s I used to do that with acrylic enamel. We only had 2 primers available. Lacquer and Polyester or the old synthetic primer which Most guys never used. Sanding down your last coat which is sealed, with 400 or 600 then respraying 2 more coats of color or clear. would act as a sealer. Paint seals actually better than primer. So when you put down on set of clear coats and sand that down and do another set. it does nearly the same thing as putting down a good epoxy primer sealer. Lots of ways to skin a cat. and yes your not wrong but this also works.
@@Mikefngarage You to are also right, I'm not saying it doesn't work, I'm just saying it isn't common practice. With today's products on the market, a high build primer with 3 coats will equal anywhere from 100-150 microns depending on gun set up and painter application, whereas application of a uhs clear will only be around 35 to 40 microns being that most modern uhs clears are only 1.5 coat applications. So when you sand that clear coat down and re apply more clear, say another 1.5 coats for example. That's still only 80 microns of total film build with the clear. Products do shrink back and you can tell that from when the primer dries in the pot and shrinks in on itself. I also have painted 1000s of cars and still am to this day. I will occasionally flow coat jobs because as you say, it does turn a standard job into a show job. But if we're flow coating we need to also remember to allow for your first batch of clear to cure properly. So flat it down and leave it to gas out for the allocated time as per the TDS other wise its just going to be under cured clear trapped under more clear. I just think when it comes to educating the younger generation say, we should be telling them what a flow coat is actually for and not what a flow coat can hide?
Thanks for the review on astra hte spray gun I purchased one so far it sprays great . A lot easier to clean than most
Beautiful spray job. I appreciate a master at work, thanks for sharing.
I've said this before but I swear if I laid that much clear on, it would be dripping off!
Great work! Thanks for generously sharing your expertise!
Awesome video I'd like to add it also works with water base but rather than doing the whole car you only do the imperfections & put 1 wet coat over the spots before you do a drop coat with metallics
Prep work makes all the difference in the finish! I have done complete cars in my drive way with a paint brush and dip can, with nearly the same results , but when “brushing “ on a paint job, attention to detail needs to be complete throughout the job! That means, touch up sanding between coats, tacking off residue, second and third coats, wet sanding color coats smooth, polishing, and letting cure properly before finish polish and sealing! ( and only brush solid colors). Brushing a cars requires 5-10 times the amount of paying attention to details then spraying, because paint only goes where the brush lays it!
I'd love to watch your process.
@@tchrisou812 if I ever decide to paint my $200.00 truck, I will post the process on my channel
Long as it is short really, can cause more dirt from were you've flatted it, especially as you say if you have poor extraction and theres no way ever you can do it on a metallic, much better to leave well alone and de-nip later painting for 37 years, and there's a chance of marking the basecoat how ever carful you are even with a bit of f#cked old 1000, can imagine doing it on a silver or a very light gold were the prep has to be spot on? Love ya vids dude.
Definitely gotta be careful if it’s a metallic. I agree !
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Outstanding job mate, one day I might be game enough to have a go at painting my projects.
I used to refunish antique furniture and I sanded between finish coats also. It removes raised grains and minor bubbles from lacquer. Just a quick light sanding amd then wipe all that down.
Wouldn’t dirt go on your last coat of basecoat after all your work sanding ?
What did I say in the video about that?
I've painted entire cars with rust paint from a spray can. for $60, the results were great.
I’d my truck Sam way lol F4 ford red
My freind you changed my clear game. I never had these results before watching your vids
You are doing everything right, go ahead and God bless you.
This is a trick I learned from a old timer that was a holdover from his lacquer days.] The other thing he taught me was the key to amazing paint was hard work. Considering he painted 3 Ridler winners back in the 70s early 80s including Bob anzalones t bucket because Bob was still working his day job says something. Funny thing was he got tired of painting cars for guys he hated because they treated people like shit. So when he had his own shop he had the asshole tax and timeline. There were guys he'd tell 10 years and 10 million. One guy got pissed because it's not fast enough and asked about my pos S10 and how a kid could afford it insinuating I had drug money. He was trying to get in front of me but Jim told him my job was free for me and he'd have to wait 😆 After he left he was laughing the whole day........ I worked there from 13 till 18 full time outside of school and up until I left for the Navy and learned a lot about life and a bit of painting.
It's nice for once, to see a guy who actually knows how to use a spray gun.
I always learn from your great channel. I am not a professional but I do get professional results with glass smooth finishes right out of the spray gun by practicing and knowing the basics in preparation of surfaces, smoothing the primer, using all compatible high quality materials, and properly setting up my spray gun Including draining my air compressor to get rid of moisture as well. It’s always a school day watching your channel. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, skill and professionalism with all of us.
Thanks Michael for your wholesome comment!
This video just sparked my interest in painting. Thanks man. I look forward to watching more.
Paint society is the best 👌 Brian you're the best teacher mate 💪although I'm a competent painter I love watching the your videos 💪thanks for all the time you put in mate 👍
Thank you so much I painted my own car and it looks great!!!!! Thank you for sharing your knowledge
Great tip Brian. Thanks for all your content as always.
Thx Brian. I’m probably going to be painting part or all of my car at some point. If not I’ll get a vintage Corvette and paint that. This is the best video I’ve ever seen on painting a car. You showed me that you must keep the sprayer moving at a consistent distance to the car. Now that’s not easy. Tell me the painted my current car which is not expensive misapplied the clearcoat on one section. At some point maybe I’ll get a temporary booth I think they sell them sort of like a garage. Problem is the filtration system. Work for companies that manufacture satellites and they have a new year zero dust allowance in the air. Thanks again happy holidays
I 'm motor mechanic,since I watch your video I do spray painting since I am doing custom build, thanks a million
Spot on. ive been in it for 30 years. ive always nibbed before my last coat. Listen to what hes saying people about the nibbing of metallic. its fine to do. just make sure your covered on the final coat. some silvers are very sensitive . also. even if you dont have a block. ive many times simply halved a sheet of 1000 . got down and scanned the reflection for individual dirt nibs and lightly brushed them instead of blocking over everything. another good practice is to soak your paper in water prehand. then pat them dry leaving them less rigid . sometimes a hard edge can cut deeper than the grit intended. Great Video and well instructed.
This was another great video, I learned a great deal from your channel. My last project turned out awesome, hoping this next one turns out even better because of more experience now.
Brian for president!!!!.....Bro you are the hardest working dude i know ...Your vids are award winning and so much appreciated for this nub....Get a cable tv show already!!!.....Cheers