Why You Should NEVER FLUSH YOUR TRANSMISSION FLUID!!
Why You Should NEVER FLUSH YOUR TRANSMISSION FLUID!!
In this video I decide to go against the grain here and flush the transmission fluid in my 1995 GMC Suburban.The truck is 24 years old and has roughly 78,000 original miles on it. I've had no issues with the transmission so far but want to keep up with the maintenance and keep this thing running and shifting good. So, out with the old and in with the new! I guess time will tell if this is indeed a bad thing to do on a tranny this old.
Wix Transmission Filter: amzn.to/2WRMIrf
HINT: I bought the Valvoline MAXLife Synthetic ATF at Walmart for just $17 per gallon!! Cheapest by far anywhere!!!
**This channel is for entertainment purposes only! Do not do what I do. Do not take my advice. I am not a professional. The methods I use may be completely wrong and/or dangerous. Please seek professional help with anything and everything and do your own due diligence (research). Working on cars is extremely dangerous. I am not responsible for any loss of life or limb or property. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH. THIS CHANNEL IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY!**
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Next video: Why you should NEVER REFUEL YOUR CAR OR NEVER CHANGE YOUR OIL.
Can't want to see those, especially why to never change oil!🤣 I once worked with a man who never changed his oil, being he had to add a quart per week (every 240 or so highway miles. Instead, he change the filter according to highway usage, which I believe was 5,000 miles on that car. Kind of hard not to blame him, if having to add every week to a 20+ year old car, why crawl underneath? While one could argue to 'get the sludge', that's what the filter is for. He does a proper oil change once per year, and installed one of those B&M kits for fast tranny fluid changes every 10,000 miles. A welder installed some type of washer before the kit. As for filter changes, he doesn't bother because (1) it's always red & uses RedLine ATF & (2), the 10,000 miles is more frequent than the OEM calls for. Around 60-to 90% of owners, depending on who is collecting the numbers, doesn't bother to do an ATF change unless a shop recommends doing so. I'll forward him this video to show him the importance of changing AT filter & cleaning the pan well. Don't want that magnet to stop doing it's job!🤣
You want.a.ornamet in your.driveway for Halloween
He did a fluid drain, not a mechanical flush. read up on the difference.
Ok but low-key don't flush your transmission
“if its not broken, dont fix it”
After nearly 10 years in the auto service industry I honestly believe regular trans flushes is one of the best services you can do for your pocketbook long term.
“Regularly” is the key word.
I absolutely agree, especially in manual transmission preventing wear and tear of the gears
Bet ya wouldn't say that if ya were in Australia with how they charge for tranny fluid here then the price of the service kits basically anything here as far that stuff goes its a rip off through our auto shops now cause they don't want the average joe to do this stuff themselves to the point they stopped putting dipstick tubes on autos here 20 yrs ago so only tranny joints can do the work
I couldn't agree more. I have a number of equipment that all use oilnincluding my vehicles and short intervals extend the life indefinitely.
@@davidmackieson4609 the dip stick has been removed because the use of Sealed transmissions have been taking over the market, a sealed trasnmission usually doesnt require check and fill, this is why there is no dipstick, a plug on the side of the tranny upper level will be the access port and where you check for level, once the plug is removed a small ammount should want to leak out. The Reason you stated is simply false, it isnt to rip you off, it is because the equipment is serviced differently,.
GOOD TIP : I've been playing with transmissions for years. Best trick I know is that removing the dirty old transmission fluid on a full flush is bad, BUT..... REDLINE RACING ATF. Listen closely. High synthetic atf's are very slippery, hence, you flush or even change an old dirty trans may make it start slipping. NOW.. Normal Atf's have to be slippery at any level, for the clutch packs to smoothly grip in the shifts. Say you put in Amsoil signature series ATF. That is very slippery. It will make a transmission with weird shift points start shifting correctly and smoother. BUT this is not good for an OLD worn out transmission that has a slip problem. If You remove the dirty trans fluid, and you lose that dirt to help grip in the clutch packs. (which are like brake pads on brake disk in a way, but many of them stacked, that grab when pressed together within the fluid) So taking out that gripping old dirty fluid and putting in something slippery, will just make it slip more or not grab at all..SO., what I learned is that you can put in this Redline Racing Atf and it's FULL SYNTHETIC, it will grip like the old dirty fluid. .... No Friction modifiers, No slippery stuff. IT GRIPS. Racers use it because they want a slap in grab shift, no delays. Yes shifts will be sharp, but sometimes that's great. You can tweak your shifting too if you have room to play, say you still have some material on your clutch packs. You could use oem atf fluid, or oem atf fluid if its a later car, that is synthetic or part synthetic. Add more redline.. shift better, add more oem or full synthetic, You can play with this. It is a thing to people willing to experiment. I have taken worn out 200k mile transmissions and done almost full flushes, and added the Redline Racing Atf, and had the clutch pack start gripping and start working again. It doesn't work all the time, but if it just started slipping and you start on it right away, you have good chances. AAmco wont offer any of this help, they will sell you an expensive repair. Just like a dentist won't bond your tooth, they will sell you a crown because it makes them more money and is easier, and not return customers with broken bonding. Think of this. Everyone says "don't remove the old dirty fluid" and many times they're right. BUT. WHO SAYS YOU HAVE TO THROW OUT THE OLD FLUID ?!? SAVE IT ! .. So, if you flush it, and put in great ATF, like a few quarts of Amsoil Signature series ATF (best of the best) which is 100 percent synthetic, which almost all others are just additives (friction modified) to various atf fluids. Then use the rest of the 5-7 quarts with the appropriate Redline Racing atf, there is a thinker fluid for american cars etc, and a lightweight fluid for Hondas for example. If it works, It's going to work a lot longer. If it doesnt, put the old stuff back. And put it back in a home "flush" method, where you put tubes to the buckets, and start the engine, put in 4 quarts, then again 4 quarts, etc... till its all back. You could also do a "change" if it just started slipping, drop the pan, change filter, add in the 3-4-6 quarts of redline racing atf, and see if it starts gripping again, or works like new, who knows. So if this new fluid change doesn't fix your problem, you can always put the old stuff back in. No one uses this mindset, I hope I reach 1 person and help them. Tricks of the ATF fluid change. Can get you many more miles out of your transmission. Research compatibility of every fluid you try. There is a correct ATF for toyota in the Amsoil brand. Redline ATF , make sure it's recommended for your vehicle and if a Honda i'd say the lightweight ATf Redline. High end ATf's will exceed many manufacturers brands, and a single Amsoil Atf will work in very many cars and makes. Must do research. And there's your Dinner !
I've been doing this for 30 years. Step 1: Loosen the top cooler line going into the trans and connect the hose to drain. I usually pump until bubbles but then I wait a few minutes you will get at least another quart or more then do it again unless you like making a mess. Step 2: Remove pan replace filter, FILTER SEAL, and gasket. Those seals are made to stick to the filter first time they get hot and they will no longer seal reliably being re-used. Step 3: Pour in FIVE quarts of fluid and pump it out again until the fluid runs nice and red. Top it off. No need to do more, or less.
You are screaming even louder than Scotty
haha... I did lower the volume on my computer
Yeah, the dude is a bit hyper.
@@kaffetrakter4174 "stay away from , they're not built like a Toyota or Lexus. Have I mentioned BUY A TOYOTA OR LEXUS?!"
But he's got the dialog of Chris Fix.......IS this what Chris Fix and Scotty combined sound like?
@@shimes424 😂😂😂 and it is Scott speaking 😂
THANK YOU for speaking up so I can hear you. I was so pleased that I had to reduce the volume a small amount on my Laptop - cause UN-like lots of videos, I actually hear what you were saying. As a former transmission mechanic I can say most of this is correct.
I did this to my 5.7L Ram at about 95,000 miles. Initially it shifted a little strange but I'm guessing the computer figured itself out and now it shifts firmer and smoother than before. Definitely something that SHOULD be done.
How about now? Is the transmission still shifting good?
@@AlexR-on3ct Everything is going great. Smooth and consistent shifts.
@@M--76The problem is people do this when the transmission is already a lost cause because they waited to late and then they blame the flush
Exactly changing the fluid when it's a lost cause is the problem. The clutch wear is still in the fluid so when they change it it removes clutch material so it slips
No its not the flush, its the fluid used. Most of vavolines and castrols fluids are not at oem viscosities. Oem only!!!
Love the video/tutorial. With your confidence and outlook, it's encouraging after having heard for years all the warnings, doom and gloom of changing trans fluid. A bonafide transmission shop refused my request for the service you just performed. They said they wouldn't guarantee it would operate well enough afterwards to get me one block down the street. I have an '06 Lincoln Mark LT with Semi-original transmission fluid - What I started doing periodically is siphoning out (thru the fill tube) and replacing 3 - 4 quarts at a time - gradually introducing fresh fluid into the system. I figure after several cycles I'll eventually have diluted and replaced all the old fluid, without a sudden "shock" to the system caused by all fresh at once. Of course this doesn't address the cruddy filter and pan.
The filter media still has to be addressed and most cases dropping the pan and replacing the gasket which most models required depending on the manufacturer, changing filter is always recommended along with the fuel filter change and as well as cleaning off the magnet on the pan
I had this video on mute and it was still too loud.
Doug Zbikowski :)))
It was just right for me , Cuz i don't hear so well anymore! At least he wasn't throwing and flailing his armes and hands around like Scotty
178 PUSSY ASS LIBTARD BITCHS!!!!......TRUMP 2020 UP YOUR ASS'S!!!!LOL
I'd prefer this volume level anyday over those muffled, practically silent movie style videos I routinely come across while on YT.
😂😝🤣
Thanks for a Great vid. Excellent suggestion to use an accurate torque wrench. Now I want to see you team up with Scotty for a "I'm not screaming, you're screaming" vid
Those 6 ton jacks stands at 4:25 have been recalled by Harbor Freight because of a manufacturing defect that makes it collapse under load.
apparently the jacks were fine. There was a guy who just wanted to use his head as a jack
i had a friends die from the jack stand failure
@@scribtoon7146 nah the jacks are crap. I have a couple. When you lift up on the handle, it should lift up the anvil before dropping it. The 6-ton's from HF dont lift the anvil up, which means it could slip if the handle is bumped or not down all the way. Plus the teeth on the anvil are not long enough, so there's a lot of wiggle room. I only use them in the lowest position now after experimenting with them.
@@frostbite1991 where can I get some good quality jack stands?
@@vegeta9411 go yo Harbor Freight. Get the 6 ton jack stands. Just make sure the anvil goes up when you pull the handle up.. and use only 2 teeth if you're not feeling safe 🤷♂️
As an apprentice mechanic in the uk, I was always taught the the best maintenance I could give a car was an oil change, that's all oils, engines, gearboxes, axles and PAS. It's good to see you taking the time to show how simple the job is and the oil, before and after. Good work, keep it up.
simple but hard work lol
I will add this. Despite people poking at you I found it very interesting how you did it. Thank you. Good Job!
for a 24 year old truck it looks almost new! Inside and out from what we could see!! Keep up the good work!!
This guy has endless energy (heart) to keep all that extra energy from start to finish. 🤙
...for no purpose or use whatsoever.
Another technique that is more time consuming due to making this a 3 step multi day procedure by having 2 assistants help you. one to start and stop the engine, one to monitor the old fluid coming out and you to pour in the new fluid as the old is going out. for the sake of simplicity, let's say your tranny holds 12 qts. including the torque converter. Set up the hoses as you did, then have 2 empty gallon clear plastic jugs like milk or distilled water on hand. Then as you signal the "starter" to get the motor running, have your funnel in place and a gallon of new fluid while your "catcher" is ready to monitor the old fluid. As best you can pour the fluid in the funnel simultaneously while the old is collecting in the empty jug. Have the catcher yell STOP to the starter as the milk jug gets close to the top. IF you haven't finished emptying the new fluid into the tranny, finish that. Then switch out collection jugs and get another new gallon ready for round 2. Repeat this process with the 2nd gallon and shut the motor off and reconnect the lines and check the fluid level. Two gallons in and two gallons out shouldn't need much topping off. Then drive the vehicle a couple hundred miles and then set up the flush trio once again. Run the same operation doing 2 1 gallon flush procedures, hook things back up again and drive another couple hundred miles. The third time only do 1 gallon of flushing and shut the motor down . Now pull the tranny pan and filter do the cleaning and brake cleaner stuff and new gasket and bolt torquing. Top off the fluid according to manufacturer's instructions and you have just done a $400 tranny flush for about $150 worth of fluid and filter. The reason you do this in steps is to avoid "douching" the old tranny fluid all at once with all new fluid because all new fluid could easily shake loose dirt in the system and all of a sudden you have a filter that's overwhelmed by the gunk and tranny fluid passages that clog and the tranny doesn't shift right. By doing it in steps, you avoid the mass of dirt and gunk as the gallons you pour in will mix with the old and gradually clean things out at a pace that the old filter can handle. By the third step, you're ready to replace the filter and put the new one in. Now you have effectively flushed out the torque converter by driving it several hundred miles on increasingly cleaner tranny fluid so when you finally drain the pan and top off the level your new filter will be filtering nearly 95% new fluid . Yes, this is pretty anal retentive, but if you don't know how old your tranny fluid is, this is the safe way to do it. It could very well save you a $3-4,000 transmission repair/replacement. Jimmy, I like your style!! Keep up the good work man.
ALL YOU GUYS OUTSIDE OF THE RUST BELT ARE SPOILED lol thing is so clean. Never find a truck that clean in NY
I stay in Florida. My sister bought a Nissan that just came from Rhode island. I have never seen so much rust under a vehicle I know working on the suspension is gonna be a complete nightmare 😭
Or in pa. Salt kills
pffffft NY try the upper Midwest. Our undersides rot like no ones business with all the salt the roads get. lol
Meanwhile I had a Canadian friend flexing some 20 year old daily driver that was in really good shape. They salt their too, he said the secret was the car got undercoated every year since new. I'm skeptical, but willing to try given its just $100 a year at my local Krown
@@cpufreak101 guess it depends on who coats it. If you haven't done it then its probably not worth it on even a 2 year car. If its a bad coat job it will trap moisture and salt and eat it from the under the undercoat. *EDIT* (I forgot krown is a fluid film vs some of the oil goop like undercoating *) The best advice I've come to know from winter driving is get your car washed often in the winter. 2 times a week if you can, especially after a major salting of the roads.
I've been a mechanic for 45 years and I say if you are going to do the flush at home this process is probably the best that I have seen (probably a better way than having the dealership do it), as far as putting the bolts in the same hole that they came out of......a little over the top but whatever turns your wobulator...........Good video
I had assumed he had done that in case there were different length bolts on the pan but the ( Should be all the same size/length) then again some vehicles can be odd.
Yes, he's very thorough.... and loud... I'm sure he's never heard the expression "speak up, son!"😱
You have never had to take bolt out cause it's too long
And the extra set of jack stands was over kill too.
@Nathan Hanson or if you don't have enough experience to know what you're talking about like you. The larger jackstand has way more than enough capacity to safely hold the vehicle up. The extra jack stand just gets in the way. If you are frightened to work under a vehicle, pick a different pastime.
I'm watching this while sitting on the toilet. I'm about to flush it real quick here.
Me too
Me currently
Same
jajajaja
Im droppin a dump and it made me poop harder
Very well done, it’s nice to see mechanics making an effort.
You did a perfect job from my experience with these. Ive been doing this stuff for awhile and i can tell you that you should ALWAYS keep your fluid clean (sidenote: although the fluid in your truck was due it really wasnt all that bad for the miles and age, the prior owner was easy on it or cared for it i can tell) the times i have heard or seen a trans fail after a fluid change the transmission was already so close to death from not being maintained it was soon to die anyhow. Anyway you did it right with a good choice in fluid and didnt spill enough to bitch about, great job.
When we used to change the fluid this way, we would run the trans through Rev, Neutral, Drive, Low, several times to flush all the passage ways in the valve body and clutches as well.
No reason to ever flush it. A waste of time that shortens its life. People brag they flush them and the trans lasts 200K..well if you didn't flush it would have lasted 500K
@@robertwadas that's a terrible recommendation, I've been a heavy duty mechanic for over 20 years, specialising in hydraulics. Fluids are a lot better than they used to be, but they certainly aren't 500k good, or even 200. lifetime fluids are lifetime of the warranty basically, they should be changed at 100k , if not earlier. Just because they look clean, doesn't mean they are still optimal. Everyone has a story about their transmission lasting forever without being touched, but it doesn't mean it's good practice. You'll find more failures from not looking after them than people doing preventative maintenance on them.
@@Brettj77 The mechanic is saying same thing. I have never changed it on any car and some hit 500K. Best bet is to put luberplate. I have been an ASE Mastertech since 1986 and worked directly with hydraulic oil companires and taken apart heavy equiptment that actually uses a heavier detergent. If you plan on keeping your car over 300K, maybe the oild today may be better, I trust as it will help keep warranties good. I am not familiar with todays auto trans, I dont keep most cars anywhere past 300K. I guess I def. could be wrong, as we run Cummins trucks with only changing outside oyl filter on leases of 500 K. I guess being a mechanic, I just dont bother as I can pull out a trand, get a kit, rebuild and install as much as a non mechanic would pay double my cost to do that. A mechanics car is noticible cause its usually the loudest as we let mufflers have to fall off before fixing exhaust. I mean my 1982 vette, auto trans is perfect and I would be scared to change trans fluid ! you know it has gunked up material on clutches. When I add, I find lubriplate is good for end and trans.I dont work on the newer cars. Im glad , trans fluid smells !
ASE mechanic .... Nuff said. Lol.
@@robertwadas you’re shyt’en me right
Hello, dude, I like your videos. As a non native English speaker, I don't need to turn on the closed captions. Your voice is so clear, showing your sincerity and eagerness to share useful and helpful knowledge with people in need of it. Keep up good work.
Jimmy, I am happy I stumbled upon this video! I don't have a Chevy truck, but I did learn a bit more about taking care of the transmission. Live Long and Prosper, Jimmy! :)
Listening to this I feel the urge to buy some flex seal 😂
he needs some flex condoms. no wood there.
What if Billy Mays and Phil Swift had a child somehow?
Lots of misinformation in the comments. First, this isn't a flush. This is a fluid change. He didn't cause damage. Second, on the matter of a transmission going out after a fluid change - Hogwash. Years as a tech for GM. It's a lot of nonsense propped up by shadetree mechanics unaware of what they're doing or what actually caused the failure. Flush is indeed bad. Never, ever do it. Not at a dealer and not at any other shop no matter how hard they try to sell it. But the reason you hear SO many people say "I changed my fluid/filter and 3 days later my transmission went out" is because 99% of those people changed fluid and filter because they noticed an issue with slippage or other tranny trouble and it was their first course of action trying to prevent failure or fix the problem. Most of them add BS like Lucas friction modifiers with the fluid and filter and mess things up even worse. By the time you're experiencing symptoms like that it is indeed much too late to change fluid and the detergents in the new fluid will definitely break down the friction in the clutches (at that point most of the friction is from grit and metal shavings embedded in the clutches) and sometimes cause the clutches themselves to fall apart as they were partially held together and kept in service by all the muck. The detergents in fresh fluid will clear that out and for lack of a better term, dry the clutches out and they just disintegrate. Once you're at that stage changing fluid and filter will absolutely cause it to fail almost immediately and always within a few thousand miles where it may have otherwise gone on quite a while longer but was still ultimately on it's way out. If you're not experiencing tranny issues, even if your fluid is dark and nasty (unless severely burnt) - you're fine to change your fluid and filter. Never flush, but this wasn't a flush. This was a fluid change. A flush REQUIRES a pressurized flush machine such as a BG machine and a flushing chemical (like BG).
@@NorthernCorruptionMonitor907 the fluid exchange machine at the dealer I worked at would hold 16 quarts. Simple old school T-tech machine.
GREAT information. I'll get my replace money together before I change the fluid. I'm noticing a 2-3 "flare" when shifting at low speed. If the throttle is held down a good amount, the flare doesn't happen. 2007 Escalade.
Adam, that is by far the best description of exactly what happens. If it wasn’t maintained for 100,00 miles, it’s going to fail and trying to get by at that point will hasten the demise of an abused trans. In short, it’s not the cleaning that kills it, it’s the past neglect.
Adam Placker You hit the nail on the head! If i hear someone say “Transmission Flush” that tells me they are idiots or crooks! Those JiffyLube type outfits pull that bullshit all the time on people that know nothing about vehicles.
Adam Placker, you may be partially right, but you're 100% wrong. "Lots of misinformation in the comments. First, this isn't a flush. This is a fluid change." First off, the misinformation was in the video title "Why You Should NEVER FLUSH YOUR TRANSMISSION FLUID!!" Even if this was a "fluid change" and not a "flush", then after we follow the title and watch a 12 minute video, the video should answer any questions it purports to address and make any distinctions in such terminology that need to be made--and without all the crazy yelling. I reported this to KZhead as MISLEADING because it is, and I heartily encourage others to do the same. We don't need punk titles, we don't need Rick-Rolling, we don't need Billy May Hayes reincarnated, and we don't need misguided people defending them for using punk titles.
All fluids used in our vehicles have a factory-recommended change cycle. Following these recommendations is key to a long service life from the vehicles. Our shop is located 35 miles from a major city. Folks who live out here but work in the city put on around 70,000 miles each year. With proper maintenance, getting over 300,000 miles and more from a vehicle is quite common.
"All fluids used in our vehicles have a factory-recommended change cycle. Following these recommendations is key to a long service life from the vehicles"....BMW, Subaru, Mercedes and others have for many years had so-called "lifetime" trans fluid. There is no change cycle. Auto manufacturers are in business to make money, not sell cars. Change ATF every 60K miles or less if severe duty. Simple.
Yes I would have done what you did, I like the way you pumped that old transmission fluid out, I always used a pump machine, but your way of thinking is legit!
WOW - your GM looks so clean underneath. This is a well maintained vehicle - very impressed.
"Why You Should NEVER FLUSH YOUR TRANSMISSION FLUID!!" (proceeds to flush out tranmission)
What he did ia not even a flush. It was fluid replacement only but he he called it a "flush". He's a confused guy.
I was thinking the very same thing after watching...well it did get me to watch so there ya go.
I wouldn’t flush it at a shop I think they use pressure and you will end up with more leaks than you had I’d change it but not flush I guess he don’t know the difference
I ABSOLUTELY AGREE, for example when he shows the metal in the old filter, I considered that the filter WAS doing its job. I have seen many screw-ups by kids working at quick oil change shops doing real damage at this. I currently am driving a 21 year old Buick LeSabre with over 100,000 mils and the HORRIBLE :-) original fluid in it and it shifts and works perfectly. This transmission fluid change is like the air filter scam, or the NITROGEN tire inflation stuff. I know you cant hear me but I am SCREAMING just like he did, but I am saying "IF IT ISNT BROKE, dont touch that transmission".
It's called 'click-bait'....
They make drain plug kits you can put in the pan. Do this the first time you drop the pan, and next time it will be far easier to drain the fluid. Also, a little trick for engine oil pan and transmission pan gaskets... simply tie them in place with a piece of sewing thread going through the bolt holes and around the edge. Tie them just tight enough to hold in place, but not distort the gasket. You don't have to do every hole. On the trans pan, two on each side and the ends is enough.
Every car I've taken the pan off the magnet is covered. I don't remember if I've dropped the same transmission pan more than once though so maybe just cleaning the magnet off once is good enough.
I installed a drain plug on my ‘11 F150, when I did the first pan service ( I hear it’s not good to change all the fluid you possibly can). Some mechanics say you don’t need to change the filter every time either, so at this point I plan on just draining the pan and replacing that much fluid in about 30k miles.
I installed a drain plug in mine, mostly just to avoid the spill that comes when trying to keep the pan level as I move it slowly to avoid sloshing. There's just no need for that sort of entertainment! 😧 I found a short bolt to use for a drain plug, and a nut to match it. I drilled a hole in the pan near the rear, and welded the nut to the inside of the pan. Use a copper washer on the plug. Now you can drain the pan before removing it. Having the plug in the rear gets the pan nearly empty, since the front end of the truck is usually jacked up while pulling the tranny pan. This method is happily less entertaining when you pull the pan to change the filter and clean the magnet!
Thank you for showing how to flush/change the transmission fluid. This is something that most drivers ignore.
The way he put the pan on was perfect. That is where most people mess up and have issues later.
Keeping the bolts in the same hole is stupid unless some of the bolts are of different lengths no need to keep them separated that's just over kill !!!
I did this exact same method. 1995 GMC SIERRA K1500 5.7 4L60 TRANSMISSION 190,000 miles. 5,600 miles later, ABSOLUTELY Amazing. The transmission has Zero...nada...zilch problems; it shifts like a dream....perfectly smooth. No slipping issue at all. The difference was like night and day.
Updates?
@@101trayday 31,000 miles and the transmission operates perfectly.
@@timallen3166 thanks for replying brother
Was it having any trouble before you did the work, or was it purely preventive?
@@nevillenewman2785 The transmission felt sluggish...the shift points were not predictable.The complete flush and filter completely fix the issues. I did this to my 2016 Chevy Spark also. (Preventive). Make sure to use high quality, correct transmission fluid and parts (AC DELCO not cheap Chinese garbage). Side note: If you have done the flush described in the video and are having shudder issues, try Lubegard 19610 Instant Shudder Fix. If you are feeling "jerk" down or up shifts, try Lubegard 60902 Transmission Fluid Protectant.
You shouldn't take the pan off like that. You had it right in the beginning, but trying to take it off level never works. So when you get down to the last couple of bolts on one side, or one corner, just start loosening those up. As the pan slowly tilts, it will pour more fluid out of the pan from the opposite corner. keep doing that until you run out of one of the bolts. Now you have one left. Push the pan back up flat, remove the last bolt, _then_ lower the pan flat as you can. You'll have much less fluid to deal with and it's far less likely to spill in your face.
That is the way I drop the transmission pans.
@@billmorris2613 Me too!👍
That’s the way my dad taught me.
Bit 01 I still wonder why they do not put a drain plug in a transmission pan.
@@billmorris2613 I guess because it doesn't get changed out very often. I've seen drain plugs in stock pans, but rarely.
Super helpful for my upcoming diff fluid changes. After three of your videos, I am now subscribed. Great lighting, no annoying background music and sound reasoning. Thanks sir!
Nice job. I usually warm the trans up ,Get biggest drain pain you can find first loosen all the pan bolts and let excess fluid drain , then hold pan up and take out 3 sides of bolts except for the opposite side that I wish pan to tilt to. Remove pan , remove filter. The filter seal is easier than you think . Just V it inwards with a awl and hammer and use a deep socket to drive in new filter seal. It is a good idea to make sure all valve body bolts seem snug. Clean pan and magnets , install new filter. Over fill the trans a couple quarts from what was drained. Remove cooler line or hose and also run a hose from end of disconnected line or hose into a drain pan .Start and run vehicle and back light the fluid coming out to see when it comes out clean and turn off engine, add to trans what came out and subtract the 2 extra quarts you overfilled to figure what you need to add , then warm transmission and recheck level for what you still need to add, and hopefully no flare on shifting or need to add Lucas Transmission Mucas , LOL Stay away from the dealer sold flush services that use cleaner solvent or that don't address changing the sump filter .
There is a big difference between a low pressure flush as per done in this case. And a full high pressure flush that could further damage your clutches using a flushing machine. So yes and thankyou for your xtra educational vid.
I owned an rx300 and regular trans fluid changes were a must to avoid toasted fluid destroying the trans prematurely. Older trans could go years with so much as the fluid changing colour. If you don't have the ability to do flushes just do two changes very close together and put a trans cleaner in the first change. Ive done that a few times in different cars
I'm in agreement with most of what you said except - "Put a trans cleaner in the first change"... My advise is NEVER put in a transmission additive especially one meant for cleaning! Dumping any sort of solvent into the ATF is asking for trouble and I'd never do it to any car of mine. And don't forget ATF is a powerful solvent all by itself. So there is nothing a solvent is going to do inside the trans that the ATF isn't already doing thus no need for it, and you might make things actually WORSE by an additive.
Thanks for the flushing plan. I made a flat wooden plate to go on my bottle jack. Put it under the trans pan, take the pan bolts out, and let the jack down. Didn'tspill a drop.
Thank you a lot for this video, I learned never to try this myself, buying jack stands, laying in
Very well done-- I like the idea your audio is clear, and narrative well-organized and smoothly delivered. Your lighting and camera angles are perfect-- no arms or shoulders to block the camera view. While some viewers complained about "shouting", a volume adjustment takes care of that, easily-- I would rather hear every word, than wonder what the narrator said at certain points. Best of all, you make clear where extra care is required. Of course, I subscribed.
Maintain it, so yes I would. You sound like a radio announcer. Great job! I still would use line wrenches on the trans line fitting.
Very informative. Now I know what to expect when I flush my own transmission on my spare car. Been researching a lot of videos. This one was definitely helpful.
Best video this far love changing my transmission fluid tomorrow.
BACK FLUSH is what you might do to cooling system. BACK FLUSH is what you NEVER want to do on a transmission. FORWARD FLUSH (i.e., just REPLACE) is okay. -- Things I do different: #1 I use a short (nipple size) steel line that I hose clamp a hose to rather than relying on threading a hose into the radiator #2 Use a plastic trashcan, not a drain pan, to catch the used fluid #3 Continuously pour new fluid into trans-fluid inlet while the old is being pumped out Yes, you might use 3-4 times the fluid capacity of the trans just for one change Considering how often this fluid change is done, it is worth it. You do NOT want to see bubbles in the old fluid, you instead want to see clean fluid coming out the hose.
He wasn't back-flushing though. That would require an external pump to pump fluid back into that hose he had hooked up to the radiator. That was a simple flush, although I wouldn't let air get to the pump. Quart or 2 out, quart or 2 in.
@John Doe I think you're right. I think it's best if you just drain the pan and add the same amount of new fluid that you've just drained. Then drive it for a few days. Then do the drain and fill again. This process will introduce the new fluid slowly. Eventually the old fluid will get diluted and be mostly new. I would only do this if you have a transmission drain plug. Removing the pan each time would be a pain in the butt!!! Again, this method is for the slow introduction of the new fluid. *****Those reading this because your already feeling or hearing problems in your transmission will probably not gain any benefit from doing this. It would be less harsh on your trans, but I think your trans is too far gone already. Do this method BEFORE you start to have problems and I bet your trans will last much longer!
@@myemail2005 ..Fractional dilution.
much like a brake bleed...#3 makes sense
My 2003 s-10 Chevy truck 2.2l I done the flush exactly following the same steps on your video only have a 84000 original miles ....it shifts like a dream ....thanks Jimmy for your great advice..GOD blessed you
The fluid is brown mud because of clutch wear. You've got worn steels turning on burnt clutches held in by a bunch of hard old seals. You've just changed the viscosity of the transmission fluid, making it even more slippery. Now its just like new! What could possibly go wrong? If you didn't change it at the service intervals, leave it alone and start saving up for a rebuilt unit.
Do an update 2 to 3 years later and let us know if the trans is still running im curious
My dad started me removing transmissions when I was 7 or 8 I was just a kid. but I had a great teacher. Thanks, Dad taught me safety first.ie chocking wheels setting brakes.seting up jacks even and jack stands.seting up transmission jack to support removal. Removing Cross member and drive shaft with universal replacement. I miss going to an old car junkyard and searing for classics. I'm 52 and can pretty much fix anything. Great video bro. A little loud.
I would say, don't screw the vinyl hose into the radiator cooler. Buy a fitting, it might be brass or it might be plastic, screw it in and fit a hose over the fitting. I say this because a fragment of vinyl could end up in the valve body.
As others have already said, great video. Everything is clearly visible and discussed and your delivery is as articulate as one could want. In all seriousness though, the title says "why you should never flush...." I am not a mechanic and I have had two vehicles mechanically flushed by the dealer in recent years with no bad results as of yet...knock on wood. I'm getting too many mixed signals between KZhead, dealer mechanics, and independent mechanics on what is right. Like I said, I have two that have been flushed and many before that that never saw a trans fluid change. To this day, transmission problems are the one thing that I have been fortunate to have not dealt with. So is there a real right answer to flush or no flush? As I'm trying to be a more responsible auto owner, I'd kind of like to know what's actually the right thing to do in this case.
I don't think your question can be answered until we know how many miles you normally put on your vehicles before selling/trading them. If you typically put around 100K or less, and you're not an off-roader, or drag racer, and don't tow a trailer, then you can leave the trans oil changes to the subsequent owner(s). Otherwise, check your owner's manual for the recommended mileage.
@@recentlychanged In the past, I usually dumped a vehicle by 120,000 or so. I'd like to start holding on to vehicles for as long as they'll give me. I've gotten way more responsible with regular maintenance and hope that I can start seeing some vehicles reach 250,000 or 300,000 miles and be payment free for a while. Also, I don't bother with the domestic brands.
Yes are you going to do a after transmission fluid change video to update us on the status of the fluid change and flush really interested in knowing how the performance of the transmission is now
I must say this. These DAMN CAR COMPANIES SHOULD PUT A DRAIN BOLT IN THE PANS.
Toyota does
They have a kit to drill your pan to install a drain bolt. Love mine. So much easier
@@Khaztr Yuppers! 96 Tacoma - DRAIN PLUG!
@@Khaztr Yup, my xB has one.
Why would Ford make it easier for you to do a fluid change? Now, they put the frickin' dipstick, a 3" one, under the vehicle, when you have to check the transmission fluid level. Rocket science.
Excellent explanation and video. I've seen some other similar videos that begin with sticking a vinyl hose down the trans dip stick tube and pumping out the oil from the pan so that it's much easier to handle and less likely to spill when you drop it.
You can even put the hose into the pan after slightly lowering it from the tranny. Drain it some more this way.
Thank you SO MUCH for this video! I was planning to do this to my 1997 4l60e too but was not sure exactly how to do it. Now I do! Yes, I will do this for the same reasons you did. Yes it makes me nervous but oh well! Full steam ahead.
After seeing the title, I thought, "hmm, lets see why this guy thinks I should never do this", so I watched it. Guess which bit o' knowledge I'm still missing. -_-
Yeah, I was thinking the same thing. Wtf man
😂😂😂😂😂😂 me too!!
Same lol
I’ve been mechanic for years and saw this so had to watch and I’m just as lost lmao.. I guess we all clearly missed his point.
NvrUseYur RealName I think the title is him being facetious. But I have heard some mechanics say that it should not be changed. But the auto manufactures recommend changing it every 50 to 75, 000 miles. I do it to my cars and get over 200,000 miles out of the transmissions. I have always owned GM products except for my first car that was a 57 Ford Fairlane. Sold it when I got a good deal on a 66 Impala SS. Every thing since then has been a GM product.
I like the full tilt volume! And cool idea to use the baggies to make the point. Torque check good idea! Some parts are alum, so, magnet not work, so, changing filter is must. :-)
i found the infomercial outstanding on how to pay my electric bill. lmao
It definitely depends on the mileage and upkeep of the vehicle as well as make and model if you have an older American made vehicle with 200k on It and it’s never had a transmission flush, do not flush It. It will cause major slipping and may become completely undriveable without a transmission rebuild. If you have a vehicle like this that’s older but only has around 80k miles you should be totally fine servicing the transmission changing the filter out and changing the fluid, remember most manufacturers recommend you get a trans flush every 60k-75k miles so he’s literally not that late for a transmission flush. The reason mechanics will tell you not to do a trans flush is because you have an old vehicle with a huge amount of mileage on It that has a bunch of dirty fluid that is actually helping the transmission still run, you change out that fluid though with a worn transmission and all that gunk is gone and clean fluid makes It slip. It’s that simple. If that doesn’t apply to you, you should definitely get your transmission serviced when your vehicle manufacturers tell you to. The problem is a lot of mechanics run into people with transmissions on their last leg trying to just get a transmission flush thinking it’s gonna help but it’ll just make things worse. So to save you the money and the mechanic the time and stress they let you know that you need to get a transmission rebuild or a whole new transmission.
I'm kinda hard of hearing (partly disabled vet) and the sound level was/is perfect.
Hilarious
Ex artillery?
7:17 Just a suggestion, I use popsicle sticks to take the old gasket off. The razor blade, might etch the rim of the pan.
Or a plastic panel removal tool :p
Smart idea!!
I recently purchased a 2006 Ford Escape with 260,000 km, it has a lifetime filter and the dextron v to be changed every 35,000ish km, I’m debating it was changed a couple of times, I did a head to toe fluid change and noticed a huge improvement instantly
I think some of the confusion and fear about transmission fluid change or flush is some places have a machine that back flushes and can suck dirty filter fluid back up in the transmission. The reverse suction flush is important but not to be done with a dirty filter in place. I had one of my cars, a 1995 Regal bought at auction with 32,000 miles but 29 year old fluids. They took the pan and filter off and cleaned the pan put in a new filter and then used the back flush machine to remove the rest of the fluid and put new in at the same time. Back flushing done correctly, I was told, gets impurities out that got stuck traveling one way and don't come out with just a draining. Like a kitchen sink faucet screen or a strainer. To totally clean them you have to rinse stuff out of the screen from the opposite side they entered. The impurity can be pointy on one end and round on the other. It won't fit through the space the pointy end entered. It needs to be pushed or sucked out in the opposite direction it entered.
Super job that's the way I would do it if somebody could help me but nobody would take the time to do it like you do . you are the best bro. keep them clean and keep on running great job brother Serperior Keith Kuhn
I would love to help ya ...i absolutaly mean that working on cars n trucks is the next best thing to sex ..drugs .. Rock n roll ...
All. Best Jimmy, Such a great done job. For me , not even professional mechanic shops will explained better. 👍👍👍
Awesome video, man. Thank you for making it I feel like it wasn’t too long but also you covered all the important stuff. I didn’t feel like you left anything out. Good editing and camerawork too. Subbed 👍
A Finned aluminum oil pan With the drain plug is less than $75 delivered to your front door. making drain very sensible from here Plus the Aluminum reservoir cooling affect you benefit from. I just installed one few hours ago. Tomorrow will do the run-purge scenario like you demonstrated here.
Love the "Cardboard Template" for the pan bolts. Flush Everything!!!
Completely pointless since all bolts are the same
😂
@@jessjohn6157 Good to know thanks
When I hear this guy talk, my mind pictures Billy Mays. :-D
But wait! There's more!
It's actually not bad for 24 years of old fluid. A lot of it just clutch and band material that won't damage the transmission. Anything bigger will be filtered. However, viscosity of old fluid might be too thin to allow all the bands and clutches engage properly.
my dad has seen so many transmissions go out after a fluid change, if you keep up with it and change it at the recommended intervals yes, but letting them go 100,000 miles before you change it can make them go out
On the cooler fitting. In my best Yoda voice: "Crescent wrench leads to vice grips. Vice grips leads to the dark side of gnarly, rounded off fitting." A Jedi uses his flare nut wrench light saber. Use the force.
If it sticks, force it. If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway. Navy maintenance manual, per Chief Petty Officer Duhhuh
@Jay Smith so by using wd40 you can use the improper tool for the job?
"NEVER Flush your transmission!" FLUSHES the transmission?!?!?!
P M this is not considered a flush. It uses the internal transmission pump. Flushing generally means hooking up an external machine that has its own pump and pushes for lack of a better word new fluid throughout the transmission. Quite different end results.
@@condor5635 Still doesn't get around to vehemently explaining "why you shouldn't".
Pynaegan because using an external machine with its own pump (and unknown pressures etc) is thought to be more likely to dislodge particles etc. that could then clog up ports etc. The internal pump would not do this
The way I see it, He did a complete change and even changed the filter. If he were to just flush it, the pan never would have come undone and the filter would still be in place. You remember the magnet with the shavings? There could be more!
Do as I say! Do not do as I do.
I have a 2010 gmc Sierra with 143k. I just flushed the transmission fluid. It made a big difference in how smooth my shifting is. The fluid was old and dark but didn't stink. I didn't think I would feel a difference, but it really made my transmission buttery smooth.
Nice work! I’m always concerned though when I see scotch-brite around engines or transmissions as aluminum oxide and precision interfaces don’t play well together!
The pan is just stamped steel, and the gasket prevents it from contacting the aluminum surface of the trans housing.
78k I would do it after a smell test. If it smelled burnt, then it's a crapshoot. I would like to mention you are fortunate to have the shift cable bracket bolted with the pan bolts instead of those torx bolts above in the case. Also the exhaust wasn't in the way and dang man, living in northern New England it would be a treat to work on an old thing like that.
The video was enjoyable and covered the basics. Anyone that's annoyed by this guy's voice or lack of mechanical knowledge should tune out and skip the negative comments. Keep up the good work!!!
uh mechanical knowledge is the purpose of the video and getting it right is the difference between good and a 2000+ dll Trans getting trashed. this isnt everyone gets a trophy be nice...
Amen. Why can’t people say what they want without trashing what someone else is doing. If you’re watching this you should be doing other research as well for the project at hand, but hiding in your house and name calling or bashing what others are offering as their experience is cowardice in the least and honestly like my departed father use to say, if you’re going to talk about me, talk to me but if you’re going to talk to me like some of these people, protect your neck.
My 2000 Silverado 1500 with 258k miles started shifting hard today. Ran to Autozone and picked up a siphon pump for $11 and 2 gallons of full synthetic Dexron VI ATF for $28 a gallon. Minus my Veteran discount of course. I siphoned out a gallon of old fluid... Added a gallon of new fluid. Ran the motor for a couple minutes. Then siphoned out another gallon of fluid and added another 3 quarts to get right on the money on the dipstick. Test drive was awesome... Nice smooth shifting and now i'm not over heating while sitting and idling!!! Valvoline wanted $140 to $180 to do a flush.
There is a better way to remove the oil from the trans oil pan than what you did. . The way I do it is remove all but three bolts on the pan, I let two bolts at one end of the pan, and the 3rd bolt at the opposing end of the pan. You then loose halfway all 3 bolts , then with a hand support the pan at the end where there is one bolt, and with your other hand remove that bolt, by doing that, you will be able to let the pan tilt down that will cause the oil overflow the pan and fall into a collecting pan underneath, while The other 2 bolts are supporting the opposing end of the pan. the more inclination, the more oil will drop and eventually, most of the oil will drain out, to the container that you should have put underneath before, by now the pan is very light and therefore, remove the two bolts and drop the pan entirely and empty the remaining oil . There is no mess and you have total control.
You sound like a mix between ChrisFix Scotty Kilmer. I don't know how I feel about this, but you are incredibly informative.
I was waiting for him to say "Out with the old......IN WITH THE NEW"
@@badm0t0rf1ng3r Lol yes!
Mitsubishi had a factory damper clutch judder fix like this in the late 80's, early 90's.
Flushed all mine in my 97 Jeep , 98 gmc 3500 and my 2000 Cadillac Escalade last year and brought them right back to life. Use them all equally roughly 200km a day for work.
Love your videos, clean and clear explained with some small sarcasm ;) 🙏😁
The magnet comes off. Clean it and put it back on the spot marked for it.
24 years later this vehicle is in such a great shape
yeah... after this video im convinced I dont need to change the fluid LOL.. Ill not spend 24 years with my car
Please change your filter seal because the rubber will just get harder and harder as it gets older and it won't seal as well. Tilt the pan to drain off fluid while the bolts are loose but still attached at the back side of the pan. Then it will be easier to lower the pan after the bolts are removed because it has less fluid in the pan.
I use the same process on my vehicle's and have to do it to my 1996 GMC 2500 with the 4l80e transmission sometimethis week. I do it a little different then you. How I do it is use the transmissions pump to pump out the old fluid, like you do, until you just start to see bubbles, then turn it off and drop the pan and change the filter, where on what you did at this point was add new fluid to continue to pump out old fluid before you dropped the pan and changed the filter. So after I dropped the pan and changed the filter and put the pan back on, THEN I add the new transmission fluid and let it continue pumping and continue adding fluid as many times as needed until the fluid coming out is the same color as the new transmission fluid going in, instead of only doing it once and calling it good. That is the only way you will get all new fluid through the whole transmission, and through the torque converter, and trans cooler. I also use one of the best transmission fluids you can use, which is Amsoil signature series fuel efficient synthetic transmission fluid which is awesome on protecting your transmission and normally helps out with any shift issues experienced before servicing your transmission. Amsoil is awesome stuff and I use it on all my vehicle's fluids, and no Amsoil doesn't sponsor me. I pay for it out of my own pocket and just by experience I have had with Amsoil, I will continue using it? I use to use mobile one fluids and filters but I switched to Amsoil fluids and Wix filters on both my Suburbans, the 1996 2500 and the 2004 1500. 😁👍
Best way to do a fluid change... I probably would have been filling while its draining tho, but thats just me... well done!
Did my 2001 caddy sls like this at 130k. It's at 230k and still shifts smooth into OD at 42mph. Gets an average 31mpg on the highway at 74mph as well.
I've never understood people saying never change your trans fluid. "My buddy's trans quit right after he changed the fluid". Well, yeah that's because it had 200k miles on the original fluid and was slipping, so he changed the fluid and the transmission continued to grenade itself like it was already going to. That's like saying right after I changed my oil (after running the car with the oil light on for 300 miles) the engine seized! Never change your oil!
Depends. If its a second gen dodge, then you have already had it changed at the trans shop a few times with all the rebuilds
Best 11:56 min invested in a video, gr8 video, very professional. All the way entertaining and didactic
Did this on old Caddys, Mercedes Diesels, etc. The Mercs gave a drain plug in both the drain pan AND the torque converter. Designed by the gods (made to be serviced)
I had a Lincoln mark 7 lsc, last year made and the torque converter had a drain plug,,, should be standard on all automatic transmissions.
Chevy Turboglides had them too, the only thing about a turboglide that was good.
@@Augie1979 Should be a law.
Yes they do! My f250 has a drain plug on transmission and torque converter. I just changed my again and was able to get about 14 quarts out of a 17 quart system. No pumping just simply drain and I drained the trans cooler and used a air hose to blow the lines. I even use some friction modifier for the rear differential in the transmission fluid( it won't hurt it, only helps) and the results are amazing can't fill the transmission shift.
My merc tranny leaks constantly from all of the seals and the pan, so I just top it up. Never needs a change!
When my Ford 6R60 transmission started acting odd, taking a second or two to drop into gear and not shifting as well as before, I decided to flush it, replace the filter and flush it again. The other option was to replace it, which costs more and is a real pain with a 4x4. So far no more problems.
I flushed my transmission fluid about 6 months ago. At first the transmission started slipping and shifting hard, but it has since settled down. Some mechanics say flush every year, some say never flush it. Depends I guess.
As a ASE tech yes ! Oil breaks down must be changed when needed !
As a mechanic of 15 years anyone that thinks you should NEVER do an auto flush is asking for trouble.
Agreed! Done 2 since I bought my 03 yukon at 130k and now has 242k common sense its auto clutch material wears it.has a filter for a reason ! Gotta change it out
Itza rumor started by the trans rebuilders.
@@hotrodray6802 ford Australia says the auto is sealed 4 life. A kit and fluid is $200 a new trans from ford $4300. I know why they say never do it.
@@robertfloresjr8513 all that clutch material will eventually plug up small shifting passages, but in most cases the clutches are worn out by then anyway. Agree if you changed the filter where most of material caught when you fill it back up that’s enough.
I know everyone saying it lasts forever... it gets black and smells burnt
People commenting on the volume will be delighted to know there are a plethora of volume control options built in to every device imaginable. You're supposed to use those at your own discretion to raise or lower the volume of the content you're watching.
Well I did this flush on a road trip from WA to FL. on a side street in TX. The flush made it so we made it to FL. I think it is just another industry money maker and they don't want people to figure it out for themselves. Great video!