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I recently gave Amazon Basics PETG 3d printer filament a try in my prusa i3 MK3S 3d printer. I found some pretty major differences comparing settings with what I had optimized for PLA filament and wanted to share those findings so hopefully you can get up and printing faster than I did (and hopefully with less sadness). In the video you will find Prusa Slicer settings, and examples of my before and after 3d prints.
Hi. I don't normally leave comments for people, but this has been the most helpful video in my whole 3-4 years of 3d printing. I have had a nightmare of a time with PETG, and was starting to think I will never get to grips with it. But having watched your video, and used the exact same settings on my printer, the results have been amazing. I cannot thank you more. I am not using the same Amazon filament but one by Sunlu. Initially an awful filament, but you have helped me turn it into something very useful. Great job, and great videos. I am now a huge fan!! I will support your patreon channel as a thank you.
Thank you so much for the kind words and support, it means a lot. Let me know if there are other subjects related to 3D printing that you would like me to touch on in the future!
Same! Thanks so much!!
I thought I was the only one!
Hello There , i am still new to the whole 3d stuff ... i wanted to check if these exact settings can be used Prusa Mini Plus for PETG and a 0.25 Nozzle . Mainly printing Vape Accessories like Replacement Glass , Drip Tips and Atty Stands ... BTW i love how the video is easy and basic with accurate explaination to the point , we need lots of these videos . Thank You Very Much
@@MRMIZO-kk9us What have your experiences been? Did you find anything out?
With all your changes and suggestions, my first print of PETG was flawless. Thanks Sir!
Thanks for posting this video, I learned so much. Also, your containers look great! Happy printing!
Thanks for this! I've been printing PLA and was nervous about PETG, second PETG print and I just had the best print ever (including PLA).
Thank you so much for sharing your experience with that brands! You helped me a lot and saved me a lot of time
Thank you for such an informative video! Just starting to get into this hobby and you answered a lot of the questions I had after I had purchased PETG and realized how temperamental it can be! Cheers!
You have made my PETG prints beautiful again. Thank you!
That's awesome! So happy to hear that!
Thank you this has been very helpful went and did your preset adjustments and my first petg print came out beautifully. Thanks again you rule
This was super helpful. I was super discouraged before watching this video. Thank you!
just ordered a prusa i3 mini and plan to do some printing in PETG. This is probably the most useful PETG video I've seen. Thank you. Hope to see more from you in the future.
Thank you, I really appreciate that!
Lowkey the most usefull tip so far, tried everything in order to make petg stick and have a proper first layer to no sucess, this was the first that provided me with results. printed on the prusa sheet no problem while before i was resorting to tapes, glues and constant live z adjust to try and make it stick and failing. Thanks.
I am a printer newbie but I want to try petg soon. I will DEFINITELY try your recommendations. Thanks for the guidance
you deserve a follow my great friend, you saved my prints man i really appreciate it beyond words
That made my day, thank you!
Excelllent recommendations! Thanks!
Thanks for the rich technicalities.
I appreciate you stopping by to watch. Thank you :)
I'm sold. I bought some Petg from Amazon while I was watch this. Thanks!!
Happy PETG printing!
Brilliant video, thank you! This totally transformed by PETG printing. I am using an i3 Mk3 with Realfilaments PETG.
do you use enclosure for petg ever? thanks for great vid!
can you share yours prusa config ?
Thank you for this video! I started by printing PETG as most of the things I want to print are functional. This definitely got me in the right direction but since I use high infill percentages I had to take some extra care with my cooling settings. Thank you for pointing me in the right direction!
I’m glad it helped :)
PET-G temps range from 220C to 265C depending on manufacturer, additives and color. Engineering grade Milled carbon fiber, Milled Glass fiber and plain engineering grade tend to be in the upper range (255C to 265C) This is the stuff I use. Stay far away from cheap carbon fiber and glass fiber PET-G because they use CF and GF dust NOT milled and it makes the PET-G very weak. 10% and 15% CF or GF tends to increase the strength 30% - 40%
Same as Mr Jones below. I had significant issues. Brilliant advice. Total thanks. I'm using Prusament PETG and MK3S.
So happy to hear that this helped :)
@@ALLYOURTECH3DP Thanks. One comment. Perhaps odd. I'm finding the ORANGE Prusament to be slightly better than the Black Prusament for the reasons that it oozes less from the nozzle and less stringing. That sounds like a temperature issue perhaps. But I haven't changed anything in Prusaslicer. Feels odd. Just a comment 1/2 a roll into orange and after 1 roll of black. All PETG.
This video alone earned you another Subscriber
amazing video.
It's very very very work to me, Thank you (from Thailand) - Prusa MK3S, PETG Esun fillament
Hi BLove: Thank you for a very well researched review. I have never used Prusa Slicer as I don't own a Prusa printer but it does appear to be a pretty good slicer judging by your review. Please keep up the great work.
Thanks Colin, I appreciate that. So far i've been really happy with Prusa Slicer. It seems really well designed and intuitive overall. You can keep everything on basic and hide the extra complexity, or enable it and really dive into the details which is nice.
I am using PrusaSlicer with an Artillery Genius and an FLSUN QQ-S Pro. It is great to be able to create the individual Printer and associated profiles, as simple as setting the changes and saving with a new name. It’s all good :-)
You helped me so much bro, subbed, merry christmas too yo
I really appreciate the support. let me know if I can do other videos to address other common issues.
I have recently come to PETG and didn’t have any of the problems with brittleness that you experienced. However, I do want to improve a few aspects and today had my first PETG fail where an 11 hour print lifted off the bed - I believe due to temperature as it was the side closest to the open door (hot day today!). Not sure why but I started layer 1 with the bed at 80 and then 70 for the remainder! You and a few others suggesting even higher than my 80C hottest. So will be trying that tomorrow. A great video, love the paced delivery style and crisp clear speech with tons of information (I’ll need to watch a few times). Great work.
Thank you Danny, I appreciate it. Definitely try higher temps. I normally do my first layer at 90c these days, and 85 for subsequent layers. With that, I can't imagine adhesion being an issue. It REALLY sucks when a print fails after such a long print time. Fingers crossed for the next print!
Thanks for this one. Very good tips.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks. This helps me finding the right PETG setup for my i3 - so many settings I didn't even know until know. 👍 (Yes, I am a 3D printing noob.)
Great vid my dude, what also helps is to build ghetto enclosure to keep fan / ac from effecting bed / warping, i use black foam board from dollar store, 1 piece cut in half then taped into angle, w black tshirt draped over top, makes for easy storage, oh & cutout to see n adjust screen
I too don't comment very often but I found this video one of the most informative 3D bits in a long time, so thanks for that and keep up the good work on those pots. Do you have a site for retailing your wares BLOVE .I thought the before and and after demo with these settings especially telling and informative. Cheers...
Brilliant thanks. Could you please share your settings from the start of the Gcode file or the export from Prusa slicer so that I can compare all.
Wow! Like others, I don't normally leave comments. But your video was a game changer for me. Used your settings using Prusament PETG and BOOM. Perfect print. You sir, rock! (I tried to buy you a few beers too, but it wouldn't let me...got an access denied message...boo). Regardless, huge thanks for the great information and video. Cheers!
Cheers my friend, i'm glad it helped!
Very informative
Thanks for sharing!! Care to share the orchid pot? 😊
Dude you are AWESOME!!! I followed your tutorial settings and another one like 2 years ago I have to find for tuning the first layer and extrusion multiplier. if you dial those in right with PETG then it's as easy as PLA or better. One thing I really wanted everyone to know. if you have a blob on your brass/steel nozzle tips. it may be because your HOT END is oozing PETG from the threads of the nozzle or the thermal Release tube threads. that was the case for me. I dismantled a slight part of the head I took off the two fans and bracket, and manually screwed the thermal release/cooling fins with the head pre-heated to 230 slightly unscrew the nozzle to make sure it's NOT flush with the HOTEND head and then screw in the thermal release/cooling fin assembly while holding the hot end head with a plier. Wear gloves its hot!!! Keep your hot end@ 230 the entire time. stop when the thermal release/cooling fins hit the nozzle threads, if using the original heads then the nozzle threads are longer and should definitely contact without the fins screwing all the way into the hotend head. then slightly tighten the nozzle head with a socket/pliers. not too tight. but if you don't do this the PETG plastic will ooze out the threads both above and below the nozzle. This is the source of the blobs!! it's not fun to clean up. just saying. this eliminated all BLOBS entirely, but I still added your retraction numbers. great info. you're a scholar and a gentleman. Thanks again and best of wishes to all.
Great tips, thank you so much for sharing. I really appreciate you taking the time to comment!
@@ALLYOURTECH3DP thank you ☺️!
If you check show seams on the slicer, you will see it on the model. That way you can visualize where the seams will be before you print.
Just started Printing PETG normally print in resin or metal way more complicated with filament printing,....respect!
Hi, great video! did you model the pot yourself and is the files for printing it available? thanks
What are you printing orchid pots ? I normally use cura for slicing a prusa printer is to expensive for me. Good video.
A coated nozzle and heatbreak can reduce filament sticking in unwanted places. A silicone sock is also recommended. These help with PETG sticking where you don't want it.
Thanks Bob, I have heard that nickel nozzles help. I haven't tried a silicon sock yet, but did hear good things about it for sticky filament like PET
@@ALLYOURTECH3DP wups - meant heater *block* although you can get coated heat break as well, but for a different problem. Nice video.
One thing I never understood is why the socks moved away from the tiny hole that covered 98% of the nozzle because, in my case, the PETG sticks to the sides of the nozzle up to the nut piece which is why I never went to socks as the new style 100% negates why I would use one.
When printing top layers over infill, I see artifacts of the infill, almost as if the top layer is drooping / metling over the infill. What specific setting helped you with this? Lower extrusion temperature? Retraction on layer change? Thicker layers? More cooling fan?
Thanks for the detailed explanation. I am new to 3d printing and specially with PETG, have been researching to get the perfect profile for Ender3 pro printer for almost 2 days but nothing worked. The moment I printed with your settings, all the blob around nozzle and bed adhesion issues were gone.
@amitbansal Did you find any solutions for nozzle oozing?
Thanks for the info. Unfortunately It would of been great to get a proper Screenshot of 8:45 as the acceleration controls are default 0 not 1000 and I can see from the screen there are not uniform but I cant read the screen. I'm Guessing Parimeters 800 Infil 1200 Bridge/First layer/Default 1000 ?
What settings would you recommend to stop petg from curling and warping around overhangs and supports?
Thanks man. Been trying to print pet g . Haven't had any luck. PLA.is easy. Need a better plastic for heat.
All of this is dead on except if you have a Bowden setup you may not want retract on layer change, in fact try to reduce retractions as much as possible. Just over open areas and instead use coast and wipe. Try coast by itself first and enable wipe if you have to. These settings affect translucent filament moreso, especially the fan settings before you ultimately want a hotend temp about middle of recommended by filament and a bed temp hot to help layers to slowly cool. I usually start my bed at 80-85 and raise to 90 instead of opposite. This is to help keep heat in the part as long as possible. Even 100+ Layers up, go hand equal to 100 layers above your bed at 90c and tell me if it's effective 😁 bet it stays warm.
Is the orchid pot your own design or available online somewhere. I'm thinking about trying to grow an orchid for my wife. Thanks for the video.
hey mate, can you share your retraction settings for petg ?
Love your Orchid pot design. Would you share your Orchid pot and base design ?
Nice video! One quite important thing you overlooked is while PETG is a food safe plastic, a 3d printed part in PETG is not. Unless you do some extra work on the part after its done. This is because bacteria really like the small spaces between the edges of the layers. Happy printing everyone :)
Damnit, now I want peanut brittle.. thanks! Lol
Have you tried using Prusament ASA filament? It is more heat resistant than PETG, it can withstand temperatures up to 93 degrees Celsius and it is made for outside use. It is recommended that you use it with a PEI spring steel sheet.
Hi. Thank you for sharing your experience with PETG on your Prusa Printer. Will help me a lot for sure once my MK3s has been delivered. Liked and subscribed. Got a question: How do you prepare your print bed before printing PETG since I heard it’s not that easy. Keep up the good work. Greetings from Germany 👋🏼
PETG sticks to the print bed really well, so I just use alcohol and wipe it down. For PLA you need to also use a glue stick since it doesn’t stick to the bed as well.
@@ALLYOURTECH3DP naw you don't. You just dial it in with Pretty PLA profile and make sure to wipe it with IPA, that's it (textured plate)
When do you remove a completed PETG print? With the bed still hot or after it cooled down completely?
Looking to see if you sell the slt for the pot and tray?
Hey man you communicated complicated ideas very well and the information is perfectly organized. Some qualities id like to improve upon myself. I'm curious if this video took you much planning or if you're just a natural.
I appreciate that Matt. I could write a fairly lengthy reply on this subject. The video did not take much in the way of prep, it just sort of flowed based on the situation. Having said that, I've spent years in business working on my communication with others. I used to get really nervous speaking to customers and clients, and over the years that has started to go away (I just turned 40). I've recorded well over 100 videos at this point, and I'm finally starting to get into a groove where I feel good about the quality of the content. So, it's complicated, and while I'm humbled and excited to hear it sounded natural, do know that like any skill we have, it took a lot of time, and practice, and even at my age I have that self doubting voice in my head. I'm just better at telling them to STFU :)
PETG was kicking my arse until you stepped up. Many thanks. BTW in your vid the layer height is much bigger than the first layer height. This kinda confused me. I was thinking they would be the other way around?
Just got an MK3S up and running that is printing PLA beautifully. Tried using the PrucaSlicer suggestions you provided as initial PETG printing attempts were horrid. There is substantial improvement but still not getting the print quality you are showing. A bit confused concerning Live Z adjust. My Live Z for PLA is 0.990 and wondering what the PETG adjustment was you suggested? Also wondering if you are using PrusaSlcier 2.1.1 and whether you would consider providing a copy of your PETG PrusaSlicer profile as some settings within video difficult to see. Thanks - - - -
Where are you seeing the print quality issues? How does the first layer look? That's a good place for us to start troubleshooting. Also, which brand are you using for your PETG?
Apologies but was startled by your immediate response; thank you kindly! I think one of my problems was not having PrusaSlicer in Expert mode. After my initial comments I noted I could find some of your suggested changes when in Expert mode. When I return from road trip next week I will run some additional tests. Per your video, as soon as the print job started I ran my Live Z up from -0.990 to -0.690. As you have the expertise, and as everyone claims PETG is such an improvement over PLA, you should reach out to Prusa and request they update their printer code to include a PETG 1st Layer Calibration. I am working with MatterHackers Build Series PETG filament. I had been using their Pro PLA filament with my older MK2S for two plus years. During that period their filament quality was always spot on. As your orchid pots looked so lovely though I have two Amazon PETG filament spools on order. Your patience with us PETG beginners is most appreciated. I will let you know results of additional tests when back in town. And again; a hearty thanks - - - -
Tom Scott definitely let me know how it goes! I’m happy to help troubleshoot and make sure we get you headed in the right direction.
I use a harden steel nozzle .4 on everything and normally have less no problem with petg then pla on a Prusa Mk3s printer
I’ll give hardened steel a shot, thanks!
I'm gonna try this tomorrow morning exactly but I have a feeling my z axis is just wrong. It prints fine and sometimes it doesn't. It's at -1.425 currently.
I dont have filament overrides in slic3r. how do you enable it. Or is it an addon?
I have a prusa i3 mk2 can i print PETG with same settings?
Where can I buy that? I'm talking about the peanut brittle of course 😜
What's the best way to glue PETG together?
Hey, thanks so much! I just started printing in PETG on my ender 3 Max and your video saved me SOOO much headache. The only issue I had was the filament did NOT want to stick to my glass bed so I resorted to using hairspray. After that, the prints are running smoothly, the time per print has greatly improved. (15 chessboard puzzle peices from 15 hours to 8 hours) I still have a bit of fine tuning to do to be as perfect as your prints look but I suspect it may be time to change the stock nozzle to a Slice Engineering vanadium nozzle. Thanks again for the advice, explaination and demonstration. Looking forward to ferreting through your others vids for nuggets of wisdom.
Usually you don't need to change anything for PETG. I use Amazon Basics PETG with Prusament PETG profile on a textured sheet from Prusa (no glue stick nothing only wipe it with a rough sponge with IPA 99% - if it doesn't stick well you first have to clean the sheet with water and soap once in a while) and it works perfect. If the printed PETG part is dull you have to increase the nozzle temperature. PETG should be shiny when printed then you have good layer adhesion. If you get stringing your temp is a little bit to high or your filament is wet and needs drying. Put it in a food dehydrator at 65°C for 3h.
I’ve noticed that the petg profiles in more recent builds of slicer are much better. I can normally use the default Prussia petg profile with my Amazon basics or zyltech petg and get great quality prints. That definitely wasn’t the case a couple years ago however. I normally start by printing a temperature tower with any new brand or type of filament and it’s enough to guide any changes to settings.
I print pretty flexible prints at 220C and 70C bed with first 3 layers at 255C no fan then drop to 220C with fan 100%. I will try your retract between layers as I had to set my extrusion to 0.97 to prevent occasional blobbing and stringing. The manufacturers of SA Filament recommend 235C to 255C but I really found that 220C worked far better for me.
The filament brand definitely matters, as there seems to be a decent amount of variation behind the actual chemical makeup of each filament.
@@ALLYOURTECH3DPYes I agree. I think one has to tweek a brand even according to colour because I've noticed variations there as well.
Hello, Thx for this vidéo, could you please, share your screenshot , cause we cannot see all parameters clearly , on vidéo, thx
God I hope these settings help. Initially I was pretty dissapointed by the quality of the stock petg profile.
Quick question: do you use glue/hairspray on the bed?
I don't. For PETG I just clean the bed with alcohol. PLA I sometimes use a glue stick, but otherwise that's it for my bed type.
Hello, would you say that buying this 3d printer for printing 3d models for customers, could pay off? I want to create a business, and this seems like something that can be a hobby and make me money.
can you do a updated video?
2.7.0 doesn't seem to like the Layer height of .62mm, being larger than the nozzle size. Other than that, it all still works. Thank you!
Hi Blove, thanks for sharing your settings. I probably miss (cause english is not my native language) but you are using a 0.6 diam nozzle, that took me by surprise when I watch your first layer settings, but then looking a little more in the configuration, it was clear that you were using a different nozzle. Again thanks.
I had to turn up my nozzle temp to 270 and bed to 90. After that I had no issues
layer hight is 0.64? what size nozzle are u using ?
That was with a .8 nozzle. If using a .4 just drop the layer height to .3 or at most .32
i like petg i do my helmets and kitchen stuff in petg i just thicken the walls and figures more thickness
Hands down my favorite material to print with.
Hey Blove, I've started printing in PETG for this whole COVID-19 pandemic and wanted to thank you as someone with a Prusa that was kind of horrified with my first results. I had some questions that I think would be good to verify for everyone: - Glue stick or no (on the powder coated sheet)? I think I've been finding that windex with no glue stick is the best approach here, but what do you do? - Print settings - it looks like you had a .6mm nozzle for some of your settings. Should we just ignore the layer height and follow everything else? I'd think we just want to make it proportional to our nozzle size (ie .4mm layer height for .4mm nozzle) Thanks, and great video!
I gave up on PLA years ago and went to PETG but be careful with PETG as it isn't brittle but will shatter as it once did on me that came close to hitting my face. Boy do those suckers shoot out like bullets when it shatters too.
No kidding! Found that out doing some stress tests. Bend, bend, bend, explode!!
I used 100% infill and that is when it is at its most lethal/damaging. I learned my lesson that day and I still use 100% infill on some parts but I don't stress them or I may lose a body part.
@@thebeststooge lol, i'll take your word on that one.
3:06 you baked a crispy waffle. What did you expect its gonna do, bend XD?
This has been an incredibly useful video. My first print seemed to be going great until I left it overnight and woke up to a spaghetti mess
So, while this at the time was an extremely valuable bit of information, I don't think it's correct nowadays. I have a MK3S+ and I tried some of these settings, notably the fan and the retraction, and it didn't come close to working-- in fact all I got was a gooey mess. I know Prusa keeps updating their settings for Slicer, and they don't even have some of them anymore that are talked about here. I have found doing a few frequent cold pulls, with fress PETG and the GENERIC PETG setting (which is now the exact same as the Prusa PETG setting-- not to be confused with the Prusament PETG setting, which is different), seems to do the trick for now. Still, the author has absolutely beautiful prints!
Thank you for sharing what works for you. I have been having some issues switching from PLA to PETG. I am going to see how well this will work for me. Do you happen to know how to get anything to stick to the powder coated sheet? I have tried most of the recommendations that I have found searching online but so far nothing has helped. Neither PLA nor PETG will stick to it.
From my experience, if the filament isn't sticking, you need to lower your Z axis. PETG should stick so well that it's difficult to get off.
Thank you for the tip. That seemed to help. I was lowering the Z and the filament seemed to skip and leave dots so I thought it was too high. I kept going lower and it started to stick. It still seems to not be sticking to the Prusa powder coated sheet very well, but I am about half way through a 12 hour print with minimal issues. Thank you again, I appreciate it.
Don't know exactly why but this increased my print time by more than 10 hours
Thanks for this, gonna try it now. However, please ensure your video makes clear you are using a .6 nozzle :)
This video was all using a .4 nozzle. I only used a .6 in my supercharged PETG printing video :)
@@ALLYOURTECH3DP In the video the footage of your print settings shows 0.6mm nozzle in the profile name, and has a layer height of .64 which PrusaSlicer doesn't allow you to set for a 0.4 nozzle
@@andrhamm Ignore that, I tested a .6 and .8 nozzle, but the settings (other than layer height) are all for a .4
@@ALLYOURTECH3DP how is the layer height .64mm with a 0.4mm nozzle?
I just got your Settings down. There has been changes in 2.50 Version it seems. but I got most of them down. So gonna test run soon. Wish me luck Bro!
They have changed a few things in recent releases, but this should still get you pretty darn close. I'll do an update video, but please let me know how it works out.
@@ALLYOURTECH3DP I followed your settings to a T, it seems it likes to leave stringing everywhere lol by the way :) Idk i might need to test a couple of different settings, im trying this new Inland PETG+ maybe thats why, it needs even more specific fine tune
@@jeeptransport-tutorials7761 print out a temperature tower for your new filament and find a temperature with minimum stringing and high quality bridges. That usually helps when testing new brands of filament
I have many piles of sadness. ;-(
Thank you. Now I got my Clas Ohlson (china made) PETG from ugly to sleek.
That's awesome, i'm glad it helped.
In Gognito Please share; still strugling with the Clas O. Black PETG 😅
I am printed petg with know heat on the bed using only Tape ✌✌
Just FYI. There is no reason for changes you made in filament overrides. Both settings are enabled by default in printer settings (retract on layer change and wipe), so your custom overrides have zero effect.
I don't know if that's accurate, or at least it didn't used to be if it is now. The amount of stringing with and without those settings enabled is drastic.
@@ALLYOURTECH3DP It was always enabled for MK3
Notice: These settings do not work with orange PETG Prusament on my brand new Prusa MK3S. In fact, I'm having serious problems to print with PETG Prusament on this printer. I have spent several days trying to tune the settings in Prusa Slicer but I still do not have the solution. There might he many reasons. But my life is not long enough to spend it on a single problem. Giving up and returning the printer back to Prusa company. There might be many reasons why the printer is not working as expected (bad extruder, printer incorrectly assembled - eg. bed not aligned to horizontal position precisely, unevenly heated bed, poor quality filament, etc.).
8:45 thank me tmr
Good video, but that weird background noise is giving me a headache.
Thanks, pretty sure that was my printer.
I think you are decent
That's the nicest thing you have ever said to me!
Please don't forget the ° before C and F.
What is up with the fucking waffles popping up?