SWA cable termination using a Storm cable gland.
It was about time someone reinvented the traditional SWA armoured cable gland. Then along popped the Storm gland. Joe Robinson gives a step by step demonstration of fitting one to a small armoured cable connected to a junction box in his garden lighting project.
STORM Cable Glands offer a revolution in cable termination. Unlike standard BW & CW glands STORM cable glands do not require a shroud, speeding up installation and overall appearance along with other benefits: IP68, Zero Halogen, UV Resistant & Anti Corrosion. STORM Cable Glands also comply with BS EN 62444:2013. Suitable for Armoured, Non-Armoured, SY & CY Cables.
🕐 TIME STAMPS 🕕
======================
00:00 Introducing the Storm cable gland
00:43 Storm gland component parts
01:47 The all important rubber washer
03:30 Fitting the Storm gland to SWA cable
03:40 Scoring the steel wire armour with a hacksaw
04:10 Remove outer sheathing with a knife
04:29 Removing the steel strands
04:54 Removing inner cable sheath
05:10 Fitting gland to the enclosure
06:36 Connecting armour to gland / cpc
07:40 Final assembly of the gland
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Pack of 2 STORM20 Gland Pack With EarthingNut Suitable for indoor & outdoor, SWA & CY/SY Cables.
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Wiska 10101473 Combi Ec308 Earthing Plate
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🎦 Presented by
Joe Robinson - technical editor eFIXX
#efixx #morepower
Quick tip. When using an adjustable spanner the fixed side should take the strain. Thus fixed side on left to undo and on right when tightening. Does 2 things. Reduce slippage. Reduces chewing. Nice idea on over priced gland
Good advice, thanks. 😊
7:19 'give it a twist to splay out the armourings' - 'Houston we have a problem, pause video and DO NOT start filming again till I get it to look like it goes on first time with no problems'
Exactly what i thought. Also very easy to cross thread the plastic
A Frustum? Quick lads! GET HIM!
😂
"That's half an inch if you're tuning in from the past" 😂😂
@Ellis Noah I can confirm that they absolutely do not care.
I'm a convert to these storm glands. So easy to use and saves a lot of faffing about.
Nice idea in certain applications but for most..... I think they have just fixed something that wasn't broken. Earth rings are cool too, great video matey.
Thanks Peter 👍
Very thorough and informative video, with an amazing amount of product knowledge, but the inner casing (housing the conductors) should always pass through the gland by a minimum of 10mm before being stripped.
Dont forget to refix the box after you tightened the gland and the whole box moved!
It's fixed with the wiska clip, you can just push them on, I've always thought they are a bit jank, but on a concrete post like that it can be very useful
Just seen this, amazing gland so well thought out. Then just looked them up on my CEF account, £11.50 + VAT for a 2 pack?!?! Its a real shame, I'm an electrical contractor who does a lot of outdoor lighting installs and would happily switch to these if the price would come down. Its worth noting a standard IP external gland will not leak water when installed properly and I get a pack for £2.50.
Just seen that, they do come with those wiska earthing nuts though, which again from CEF sold in 10s work out at £4.19 + VAT for 2. That leave's £7.31 for the glands (11.50 - 4.19), still pricey but I guess it depends how much you want those extra rubber seals. As you say, I'm not aware of water ever getting in through any of my old glands.
Chris Jinks just put some tape over the exposed armour under the shroud and everything will last that much longer!
I ve used almanalating tape then slipped shrouds on and of course bottom entry only
Forget trying to seal a connection box by the glands alone as soon as it's opened next time the clips are f'd and it will leak, so best just use gel and normal glands
@@stevensmith4449 Shrouds cause corrosion
Thanks for sharing 👍
Might be controversial but I actually prefer the look of a shroud on my SWA glands, as long as they are installed well.
Shrouds cause corrosion
The inter sheath should ideally extend slightly past, even if only by 2-3m, the internal part of the gland. I don’t suppose anything will happen if not, but it’s good practice.
was thinking the same thing also 50mm cut on the armer should only been the length of the cone.
Was thinking the same thing apprentice mistake there
Absolutely!
Great vid, shocking puns!
CW gland, bottom entry, and a drain hole. Job done. If this was cheaper then I'd use it. I use dozens of wiska boxes, but on revisits they show signs water ingress.
That's interesting, I wonder why?
on a hot tub install lol 😆
@@efixx humidity
Yes, a big improvement on previous and better engineered. Luvely jubily, even del boy, a old sparky would approve !!
Nice one Joe, would still go for an swa compression brass gland which is also much easier to install than the traditional variety, and gives as good as... if not better/stronger seal. Tightening those plastic glands, na, easy to score / damage/split etc - alot of heavy handers out there. Good vid all the same always nice to see whats hot on the market. Steve sparks.
Loved how all the fixings lined up perfectly 👌electricians OCD 🤣
These are brilliant glands... now use them all the time for outside jobs
Yeah, we love em. 👍
I like the look of these.
We like 'em!
Great Vid..been tempted to use them, and will give them a try now...here's a hack another Sparks taught me, instead of spending £3.00 to £5.00 on the wiska Earth bar, the Demo Guy said when cutting the SWA there's always 1 strand of Armour not playing the game! ...if you make it 3 or more strands next to each other and push it through the gland and sleeve it up with Green & Yellow & connect to ongoing CPC...money & time saved, it saved me money on a project with 20 odd external garden lights
Hm, not sure that's best practice as you can't guarantee all the strands have a good connection. 🤔
@@efixx it always test well on my projects as you can use your Armour strands as your CPC and all strands are bonded together swirling in the cable length as it should have good continuity through out the length of cable as the strands are tight together ...as if the screws on a earth bar have not been tighten etc.. you will alway have a better connection with the strands as the Should be going from point A to B...BTW I'm just a Sparks who works on what works for me & if my testing values are Tip Top ...Job Done Regards Tony
Just fit both frying pans and twist together until the holes meet. Nut and bolt through and you've got earth continuity.
A lot more thread on these to get the wiska earthing plate connected. Will give them a try.
Great video and gags 👍😂 thank you
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for commenting. 😊
Great glands . I guess its price that's is the key . But for me I'd spent the extra few quid for the less hassle and a better , quicker job .👍
Great for diy guys but if you had a site full of them the cost isn't economicly viable.
Brilliant, love them and the appearance..... Wait WTF £7.50 to £12 for a pack of 2? .......let me have another look those CW's again
What! Not sure I've seen any water coming into a CW anyway, why so much? Maybe in time they will come down.
There used to be a very similar product to this called "bite" glands but seem to be no longer available, I may give these a go
Hi Joe, thanks for the video - I see mixed reviews. Would you drill a drain hole? Would you drill the box to fix onto plugs in the wall etc rather than use the mounting bracket supplied? What about the IP rating then?
I find the earth bar grub screw is sometimes too short to tighten against the gland on 25mm with reducer ( the other piece that comes with the earth bar which is utmost annoying, I tend to put my own 4mm brass bolt in)
Plus a decent amount of thread, through the earth clamp bar, so it doesn’t slip off when you tighten it.
Storm in a teacup, Joe??? - No, a storm in a Wiska box! 🤣
😂 Thanks for getting to the end of the video! 👍
Hawke gland. IP68, fibre washer, no need for a shroud. Also don’t have to terminate into the box as the cone and olive are separate
Plenty of plumbing fittings on copper pipe don’t use olives even if compression is used. Radiator is first thing that pops to mind.
According to my NICEIC assessor The inner sheath of the swa cable needs to be inside the box and not insde the gland. Petty I know but that's what he said, sharp edges and not the correct type of mechanical protection??
Agreed regardless of regs or not.
How did you fix the wiska box to the stump always blow the concrete out when drilling into them and plugging stumps
Joe how do you check that you have metal to metal on the clamping and the cone
Great channel guys what size wiska box is being installed ?
308
Its got applications i suppose,never had issue with the standard external...
Easy to install the first gland, however installing the adjacent gland is a slower process due to limited room for spanner turns. I note you didn't include that in your video.
Thats a good shout. My thing about glands is always how to find an easy way tighten them and tighten the lock ring. Ive just invested in some lock ring spanners from ebay. Lets see how well they fit in to a rotary isolator! Although i quite like the earth bar instead of the lock ring. I would hope for a bit beefier mechanical connection though with that little brass screw, and would it fit in standard branded isolators and not just wiska box
I find that the black wiska box draw heat out side and produce moister inside.
I put silca inside to stop damp..
If I was installing wiska boxes for garden lights I would use the storm gland. The cost difference is reasonable. I like the fact that the swa is 100% protected from the elements. In theory going back to a storm gland in 2 to 3 years, then the armouring should be ok and it should be easy to remove the gland. Going back to a CW gland it's normally rusted to hell. CW shrouds typically deform in the sun. When the storm gland enters the wiska earth bar there is plenty of lengh on the thread, a CW thread just passes the bar and when I tighten the slotted screw it's just on there. For a garden job on display to the customer the glands look the part. Nice demo.
I'm more interested in how he mounted the wiska box to the concrete post?
🤫 #skills
@@efixx a tube of sticks like sh#t😂
You can buy a pack of 2 CW20s for around £2.50, the cheapest I've seen these are around £12.00, they are just to expensive & they are not even that quicker to fit. If you fit a CW gland properly with a fibre washer, you will never leak, Good idea, but to expensive & to bulky.
With a junior haksaw put the blade in reverse way round and cut on the back stroke the blade lasts a lot longer
How did you get a fixing on that concrete post? Can you do a separate video?
sds drill most times blows back of post apart lol then have to nip round and repair lol 😆 Best to use a bisch blue drill bit 💙 👌 😎 and make sure post is secure 👌 🙌 👍 bit iffy fixing to post Napit tech said make a note on EIC that posts were assessed to be of solid fixing
Mmmm think I would have left a little bit more of the bedding on that cable. Good glands but if your were fitting loads of glands the cost would too big compared to a CW
Not cheaper but a bit quicker and a solid IP rating. I think I prefer the final look as well.
@@efixx what is quicker about it other than no shroud it’s the same components
I work in the water industry, all of the SWA glands we use are E1w. this is to stop the water that can track up the cable in the armour section of the cable. The difference is a second compression rubber seal under the brass cone that when tightened down seals around the inner sheath. Are SWA going to or are doing a replacement E1w gland in the same style as these?
Thanks for the info - we’ll take a look at the e1w glands as we are sure most electricians aren’t aware of them and they could be useful In some applications.
question for you why is all the 3 core swa colours brown black and grey the phase colours in ireland we use brown blue and yellow green is that not available in uk as we are not permitted to use phase colour as neutral it has to be blue thanks gavin .ps great youtube channel keep it going
That's a great question, it's been like that as long as I've known. Thanks for the feedback also!
For some reason most cable manufacturers here assume 3core cables will be used for three phase installations, really they should offer both three phase and single phase colour schemes, but from what I can tell that's rare.
@@TheMattSturgeon Toolstation sell brown blue green/yellow armour
@@stevehirst536 good to know, looks like they mainly only do small sizes (up to 4mm²) though. Looks like Wickes have a similar offering. If you're willing to shop online there's a few wholesalers listing single-phase 3 core armoured (swacable & armouredcable list several sizes, for example).
Wouldn't be without my armour slice now. What is that ancient device you're using haha
Which one are you using mate?
@@ChrisTheSparky CK
You cut the inner cable sheath too short
Is it recommended to use the armour as CPC? What's the official stance as far as standards are concerned?
swa needs carful calculations if using metal steel wired part as cpc. depending on size sure someone will expand on that thought
Thought it was JW for a moment during the close up install, if you threw in the odd dubious comment you may of pulled it off
My man which one is neutral and which one is earth wire
look good but at twice the price of CW glands not sure how popular they will be, seen this sort of thing before and they don't take off and fizzle out until you can't get them any more.
It'll be interesting to see how they work out!
Could say the same (cost) about the pirhana nuts, but I buy them because although they're expensive, the marginal benefit is huge 👍🏿
do you sell a tee version and are these suitable for underground ?
Woot defo not under ground suitable lol need substantial submarine joint pack and resin...
This smacks of engineering, all the answers but struggling to use a junior hacksaw 🤣
Inner sheath? Brass body
Just use an e1w gland and fibre washer. I think the storm glands look too bulky and weak. I think I just might not like change.
It's another option for sure!
As an Engineer and not an electritian, should there not be a nut at the end of the fitting, after the earth block. It may just be me, but it seems that the only thing holding that whole lot in place is the thread at the bottom entry of the plastic box. If there was a nut at the end of it all, it would take more of the weight and any force.
👍👍👍👍👍
Looks a lovely bit of kit, how does it compare with price to the standard one?
Depends where you get it from really Lee but definitely more than a CW gland.
There £10 by me complete rip off
Why you not using ck amour slicer
Cos they're NOT quicker.
I like my junior hacksaw! 😂
Also, it’s to find the Damn thing- nah, hacksaw
Did that whiska box fall off when you tightened the gland? 😉 Lol. I like these, but I have fitted hundreds of normal outdoor glands with shrouds, for £2.00 a go, they're fine if you know how to do them correctly. Like others say, need to be cheaper really, as not much gain per cost ratio.
Why don’t you use a spanner? It is easy.
The inner sheath should pass into the enclosure, the sheath should extend 10mm past the base of the gland. This, as is, only has 1 layer of insulation between the earth and any conductor. Its like taking a TFE into a socket but stop short with the outer layer of insulation, and then just have the wires going in. Why not do away with the outer layer and run single cores everywhere... joking on that last bit.
What’s the difference between this and singles in metal conduit?
@@efixx Good question. The end section of thread will have a female bush on it when doing a conduit installation, to stop the single core becoming damaged through vibration. Here the rough edge on the gland can cut into single layer and earth-out. (not always rough but not always smooth either) For the sake of a few mm of sheath left on it makes the installation a lot better. I repeat that you would not do this in a metal clad socket or the back box of a sunken socket.
DID Gary strike again?? lol
After termination fill the box with Plumbers Mait. No water gets in then.
Plumber's Mait? Really? Wouldn't that Wiska Gel stuff be better?
@@efixx Good morning. When I did my apprentice (1972 to 78) water resistant boxes were not as advertised. Filling a box with Plumbers Mait was the way everyone then made boxes moisture resistant. I have some boxes I fitted in my garden twenty-four years ago that are still water tight. Mait is a putty like substance that does not go off, it remains soft and in my garden has worked for twenty-four years.
Personally I’ve used these and I don’t like them, they look incomplete, so used to seeing a nice neat shroud cut on, also they’re pretty much the same speed to install as a normal gland, don’t really see the point in them tbh.
wheres the armour slice its painful to watch without it haha
The junior hacksaw still just edges it for me! 😂
I’ve been in this game for 35 years and I still prefer using a hacksaw , I tried the ck armour slice but thought it was overrated and I can still strip a cable quicker using a hacksaw , as for the glands , they look ok but are expensive if you fit hundreds a year like I do....👍
Using ratcheting spanners would save time.
1 Bonus is no chance of forgetting that Pesky shroud and having to resort to a cheeky slit and black tape 😂🤫
And I've lost count of the amount of times I've forgotten! Always had to take it apart though and pop the shroud on. OCD. 😬
We've all been there mate 😫🔫
😜 Sooo true
Think your hacksaw is cheaper than the gland. You need to get a SWA cutter.
Literally the only way these are justified is if they saved on one step of the terminating process and actually saved time/money. Almost all normal applications don’t require the termination to be IP 68 rated, so maybe in very few circumstances they’d be worth using on an oil rig in the North Sea maybe, then again they’re probably not marine rated or Lloyd’s approved 😂
I love all these new things............but when are CU manufacturers going to address the knock outs issues IE lining them up with the main switch and the RCD also how abot including the galds we might need and I mean all of them your going to have to but them any way and so what if there are some left over anyway sorry to hijack your presentation Joe
No drama, you raise some interesting points. 😊
Brand new hacksaw and a cheap cr*p adjustable spanner 😂😂
You almost didn't get the like after that appalling gag at the end. 😑
😂 I was properly proud of that! 😊
@@efixx 🤣
These storm glands DO NOT FIT 3 core SWA CABLE!! There is no room to push the fitting together once the brass ring is over the armoured strands. Massive design failure! Had to revert to standard brass glands.
Not entirely true, I fitted two SWA 3 core 4mm2 side by side into a 308 combi box yesterday using the 20s storm glands. I did note during my research that the maximum armoured wire size is quoted a 1.2mm, maybe your cables had thicker armouring?
I fail to see how manufacturers of cable are able to continue to make cable without a dedicated earth conductor. Putting earth tape on a coloured conductor or relying on the armoured sheath is well out of date.
Used these before there awful. Once installed they look good however the thread often breaks and the outer plastuc scores when trying to tighting. On top of this there way overpriced. Stick with the classics.
Nothing new. Just a copy of the old CCG posi seal gland.
I really dont get the hype with these, they save no time and cost more money
Need to learn how to terminate a SWA before you video your self. Inner sheathing need to be visible to stop chaffing 🤔
Lol, deletes my comment cause I’m telling them how it should be done. Sad.
Erm, your comment is still visible below David?
Swa glands are some of the worst designed electrical contracting accessories we have o endure
Do you mean this Storm gland for SWA or the regular commodity types?
The original one ..so man things wrong ..sad thing is they take the meat away from the billet making it a real pig to fit and disconnect Where you grip the main body it’s not even the width of a spanner or more importantly pipe grips ......the lock nut too is to thin by x3 . When holding the lock nut you usually have to hold it at an angle as the consumer unit or box has a flange so making contact minimal ....all basic faults and lousy designing ....I’m 65 now but it’s been a bone of contention for 40 odd years.....this s one gripe in my industry ..there are many .....so simple to design well if given the right grounding Rant over.....I have enjoyed my chosen path ....the banter is great ..ELECTRICIANS CONTROL THE WORLD. ....LITERALLY .. BACK TO THE DARK AGES WITHOUT US 😀😀😈😈😈👍👍👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧. Ps we need to drop the Chinese crap coming in. Buy British 🇬🇧🇬🇧
Look by Hensel Parts,Köckner Möller Industriel Parts. I have no See an unusfull Technik by the way.👎 Even the using tools is horrible for work👎
Poor install. The white inner insulation on the SWA should be taken into the box past the brass gland threads, inner cores could rub on the edge of the gland. This would be a code 2 non compliance on an EICR. Classed the same as basic insulation entering a metal box with no grommet.
no way is it C2, doubt it is even worth a C3, it is rounded and smooth so no chance of any abrasion damage, not any different to singles and a brass bush, or would you C2 that as well? lol
Agree the white inner sheath should be taken past the brass gland, I've seen a lot of shorts on the brass gland. BUT NEVER A CODE 2. SHHH SILLY BOY.
Thanks for the feedback on workmanship David, what are your thoughts on the gland?
David im going to have to give you a C1 for even saying C2. Sorry
I agree, I'd have took the bedding past the brass on the gland but the bedding does not meet the criteria for a sheath like a twin and CPC, which are essentially double insulated. I wouldn't code it on an EICR if no signs of damage and let's face it damage is highly unlikely in that scenario.
Those wiska boxes are over priced garbage, they’re made from cheap brittle plastic, let in water, have limited room from the stupid back design and don’t even get me started on the wall bracket, just like in the video they arnt suitable to hold the box and easily fall off, iv seen countless box’s hanging from walls. absolute trash.