BMW E46 E39 E53 Broken DISA Removal And Check M52tu M54 M56
2017 ж. 18 Нау.
72 901 Рет қаралды
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BMWE46 E39 E53 DISA Removal And Check M52tu M54 M56,
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Thanx for the video. A few notes here for your consideration, after having just completed this task on my 2003 330ci E46. My OEM DISA was indeed bad. Symptoms: flat spots on acceleration with random cuts-out every once in awhile, which I put-up with for a few years...but then it got really bad, running rough at idle & a rattling noise at the DISA valve. I ran a code check on the car with my Actron OBD ll & the following codes came up: PO313, PO300, PO1348, PO1352, PO1350, P1083 & P1085. Their were some additional 'pending' codes as well, but you get the drift....the car was sick & some of these codes can indicate costly repairs (like pre-cat O2 sensor & fuel injectors etc). But taken together, they can also indicate a less costly problem that is the main cause of this group of codes going off. As any DIY guy can tell you, that when in doubt, always start off by addressing the easiest/least costly repair & work your way up. So, OK, I started by replacing the air filter & cleaning the MAF sensor with a can of MAF Cleaner. I checked & it still ran rough...so on to the next least costly/easiest part. The DISA valve. I read up on this quite a bit & my codes matched my cars symptoms. I 'carefully' pulled my DISA valve to have a look & the plastic nipple on the bell crank had broken off (due to poor design) , leaving one end of the flapper valve disconnected. Other than that, their were no cracks in the valve housing. So, I either fork over as much as $400 for a whole new valve assembly based on the same defective design, or buy a rebuild kit & save a bunch. I decided to buy an upgrade kit that cost me $80 thru Amazon, as opposed to the $30 kits that have questionable quality & still rely on the same crappy design as the OEM part. I bought the 'German Auto Solutions' kit that has an aluminum flapper & a titanium thru-bolt so I didn't ever have to do this again....& I like it just fine. While this video is appreciated, there are a few important points that should be emphasized, as mentioned in some other videos on the subject & the repair kit instructions. #1...be extremely careful not to let that small retainer pin drop off of the rear end on the valve while taking it out of the engine. If it falls down into the engine, you've got a Big problem. #2...unlike what is mentioned in this video, the flapper valve should only come back half way with your thumb over the air hole when doing the vacuum test...then when you take your thumb off, the flapper then opens all the way. 3...the plastic dust shield around my brake fluid reservoir got in the way of getting the old DISA all the way out without damaging it or losing that dreaded shaft pin. I could have spent an extra hour or two doing an R&R on that, but I chose to just cut an L-shape into the plastic shield so I could temporarily bend that small area back the extra 1/2" I needed...worked fine & you'd have look hard to see where I cut the shield...but heh, WTH, it's my car. Beyond all that; just follow the manufacturers instructions & if needed, check some of the other helpful videos on KZhead &/or check in the Bimmer forums (that's where I found out about this group of codes matching a faulty DISA valve). As it turns out, this is a fairly common problem & with multiple codes like that showing-up, this could get 'real' expensive for the unknowing....& perhaps a blank check for the occasional disreputable mechanic. Sidenote; After having done this, I suspect the sticking flapper valve he shows in this video is due to the previous repair kit being installed without being properly lubed at the specified locations, or the lockwasher retainer on the cam lobe arm (under the pop-out access panel) was installed too tight. Have fun ;)
wonder if the same kit is still available
Side note.... as long as you have an air compressor, smoke testing can be accomplished cheaply. A new paint can, a couple air fittings. Some clear tubing. Use a acetaline torch to ignite some wood chips in the bottom of the can. This works every bit as good as a smoke machine. Just thought I'd put that out there
Nathan. Did it solve the problem, replacing the DISA?
Mine also does that weird sound and my e46's m54 runs rich. I wonder if replacing DISA could solve that problem.
Hey Nathan, I hadn't seen one anywhere online and that's why I want to make the request of this video. Could you make one on how to repair the sunroof? I have one side engaging and the other side of it literally is not at all. I took the window out the top and watched only the passenger side engage and slide and nothing happened on the drivers. Much appreciated man.
What possible codes a faulty DISA throw, can you list them? I'm suspecting this part and maybe the pre cat sensors are dirty, the codes I get point to vacuum leak, running lean. Thanks in advance. 2000 BMW 323i sedan.
Excellent video Nathan! The DISA valve is on my to-do list and your explanation and camera angles gave me a really good insight into what's going on over there. I have the symptoms you describe (RPMs dip when coming to a stop etc). The car also dips RPM slightly when slowly bringing the clutch up without gas, could this also be a failing DISA symptom?
vviiper same as mine . have you since replaced ur disa?
Good stuff. Thanks
does e39 528 i ..1997 ..m52 also have one ?cause i can not find it
Which model is your car? Is your motor m52 or m54 And another question what's deference between the disa with orange and green seal
are the disa valves the same ? will one from m54 work on the m52tu?
2:40 It doesnt need hold and close completely, it has to be open just a bit...
Hello my friend, I want how to reset the air conditioner panel through the buttons without a computer
Hey there Nathan, I have a 1999 E46 328i sedan that has idle issues when its about 40 degrees or lower. I removed and checked the DISA. It holds vacuum and seems sturdy. I replaced the oring on it. Cleaned the ICV. Replaced the intake boots and checked (the best I could) for a vacuum leak. The secondary air pump is coming on. When its cold it starts up fine but the rpms surge up and down. And almost every time in this situation it drops down to low and dies once. After you start it again it runs fine and doesn't surge. It only does it on a cold start. Any ideas??
Could be vanos seals or a problem with the ccv
I had my mechanic replace the CCV and hoses before so I'd say that's probably not it. I watched your video on the Vanos rebuild but not to confident on taking all that apart. Thanks
@@CrazyOneToo did you ever figure out what it was? Currently going through the same issue with my 1999 528.
@Bek No it's still an issue.
I just installed the repair kit from @t and I hate to report that I am still getting the same rattling sound when I accelerate. Any ideas? I know I installed it right and the vacuum test worked.
Vanos piston seals
check the exhaust manifold gaskets
Does anyone have any info on getting out stripped/ rounded torx bolts on the disa valve? I heard about "easy out" but I'd like to avoid that and the mechanics but I'd rather pay someone to help get them off then f'em up beyond repair
use a dremel, cut a straight slot in the head and use a straight screwdriver to remove it
Solve the problem of black and white smoke coming out of the exhaust x5 e53
Mines not broken but it’s sluggish so ima replace it, got the part a month ago but been to lazy to work on my car 😂
so if the diaphram fails does the whole DISA need to be replaced?
George Palmer No...if your diaphragm fails, you're having a baby.
when it fails it sounds like a schoolbus
my 2.5L 325xi sounds like its got a big ass v8 in it from how heavy it id;es
@@jordanremlinger2819 and i thought my 3.0 m54 x3 was bad...
Did an intake smoke test my disa was leaking out the diaphragm area. Although it was working and holding pressure I still replaced with a new ebay one for $90. It fixed my lean code p1189. Now to find this p0442 code I can find for the life of me. 😭
Someone was cutted everything off on my disa valve. Can disa without any flaps inside somehow make transmission sift badly?. I get transmission light if i put much gas in first minutes on driving. And it goes off when i restart the car. When everything is warm, i cant get transmission light on. e83 3.0i 4x4 2004..anyone?
I didint have even the flap holders" so i cant just buy new flaps. I bought the car from dealer so cant ask the old owner the reason. 🤷♂️
First