Welcome to the first video of my series on mouse modding. I hope you enjoyed the episode! If you have any questions, feel free to ask them in the comment section.
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- Soldering Iron: amzn.to/3aaP3Fu
- Heatshrink Set: amzn.to/2DSveGM
- JST Connector Set: amzn.to/33GLLIR (includes crimps and connectors)
- 30 AWG wires: amzn.to/31B2omx (you could possibly go with thinner wires but those work great)
- Solder (lead-free, I prefer 60:40 solder but I linked this one if you want without lead): amzn.to/30F1Lco
- Solder (my favourite): www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/K...
- USB A male connector: bit.ly/3kpnoW6
- Paracord (EU): www.paracord.eu/paracord/para...
- Paracord (NA): www.paracordplanet.com
obviously, you can get those parts wherever you want. I can really recommend checking out local stores, aliexpress or www.mouser.com
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Socials:
- twitter: / differentsens
- twitch: / senslmc
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I learnt that it's best not to cut the paracord before putting the cables through, especially if there's more than 4 wires and it's quite thick. I found out the hard way when my pre cut paracord wasn't long enough because it had compressed to allow the thicker cable through it. It was probably about 20% shorter than when I cut it. Edit: you need to pull the inner string out of the whole paracord length if you don't cut first. So you can just cut 30% extra length beforehand.
very helpful for new beginners 👍
that's what I am aiming for with this series
Interesting 🧐👌🏽
Hey! I have a little question, would this affect the response time of the mouse or something like that? Edit: just noticed u have 500 subs, you deserve way more
Afaik it doesn't. Especially if you compare it to an aftermarket paracord you would just buy. Also, I doubt manufacturers invest a lot of budget into cable quality. Even if there would be a slight increase in latency I personally would say that the trade for additional freedom in mouse movement is still worth it! I noticed no difference when looking at mouse graphs tho. Thank you so much! that means a lot!!!
@@calonyoutube endgame gears has very great cables.
Does it matter what colour the wires inside of the cable are or is it any colour to help tell the difference between the 4?
I see the 30awg wires, can I use them to power a keyboard? Keyboards seem to draw more current, might be an issue with the thinness of the wire
Is there a difference when i want to do an usb c or micro usb paracord cable instead of a paracord for an mouse?
I solder to the crimps as well, it's a super painful process, sometimes the solder just flows into the whole crimp and blocks it so you have to redo it. I just ordered a crimping tool from aliexpress for cheap.
I actually never encountered the problem. You could try to use a bit less heat so the solder ”dries” faster and put the crimp completely horizontal or even at a slight angle away from the pin connector. Or you just go with a crimping tool :)
can you tell me which exact crimping tool from aliexpress i can use for this?
why wouldn't you just do it with the shrink tube while it attached to the original cables (like you would solder it together) :D and it wouldn't stuck. another tip: you don't need 3-4 shrink tubes when securing the USB Type A head, simply pull the paracord up to that point, so you crimp it with the sleeve, then you can use 2 shrink tube (and lastly one that covers the USB head)
5:23 What kind of header spliter is that, is it 2.0 or xh2.45
holy moly you were not joking about getting the wires through the paracord as the most annoying.
4:46 can i do this after finishing and do i do that to both sides?
What is the type of paracord or size you use?
what is the mm of the wires used ?
Do the cables have a specific order? I mean a diagram where one is the ground, another is the data, etc.
yes they have a specific order
I did the same with a Razer cable but used the outside fabric layer of the cable as the "paracord", which is 10 times lighter and better than normal paracord cable. I removed all the shielding and the rubber in the cable and used just the 4 strands inside.
That’s great! Recycling is always doable with those parts!
@@calonyoutube It's not only doable, but preferable :D I'm a hammocker and have over 10 tiper of paracord around. None are as flexible as the exterior mesh of the deathadder.
Are you sure the usb wires are in the correct order? because everywhere else I have seen they solder the black at the left and then white green and red.
doesnt matter as long as they are also in the correct order on top. iirc I used the order from ceesas forum post
@@calonyoutube after some digging around the web this is the correct order and I was mistaken, sorry about that. I am currently try to solder the JST crimps which is for me the most annoying and difficult.
@@mrsaul3709 dont worry :) yeah you could also get a crimping tool! makes it way easier
@@calonyoutube I got a soldering hands and magnifying glass so now it's way easier, just finished my first cable and ready to test it.
It's possible to 3d print the 3D stress relief? If yes, is there any template online? I'm looking for a glorious model o one
would also be possible ! you could also make one yourself. haven't done that yet but I actually don't think it should be too complicated
@@calonyoutube ok thanks for the reply!
@@DomeF. gotcha!
Do I ever need other colors beside white, black , green and red?
colors dont matter at all. you could also do all black or w/e color you wont. its just colored so its easier for you
@@calonyoutube as long I put em in the same order in the 5pin house, it should be good? I also have 2 more questions tho, why are not we using 4-pin house is it cuz manufacturers use 5? and also does it matter which cable I solder the the USB "legs" first? ( I assume not) And thank you so much , I really appreciate it!!!
god
thanks my mouse has a super stiff heavy cable and i dont want to buy paracorded cable lol
Orrr make ur charging cable connectable to mouse