Lexus LS430 sub woofer replacement and interior removal
2020 update: Sound test video here: • 2005 Lexus LS430 Sound...
A step by step tutorial on how to remove the back seat & rear interior garnishes of the Lexus LS430 to get to the sub woofer, and how to replace it with a cheaper aftermarket part.
The OEM part 86160-0W260 is ~$400. I installed this replacement Polk Audio DB840DVC for ~$50 in ~4 hours.
Important notes:
- I am not a professional mechanic or electrician, so consult a professional if you don't know what you're doing.
- There's lots of conflicting information out there on Ohm/resistance of the Mark Levinson sub woofer and the best way to re-wire a replacement. In this video, you can see mine measured around 12 Ohms, so I wired the Polk voice coils in series to get 8 Ohms. If this leads to problems down the road, I will post an update.
- I didn't think about making a video for this until after I had taken everything apart, so this video was mostly filmed backwards. If you see any continuity mistakes or confusion, that's why.
- There may be better ways to wire & mount a replacement sub woofer in this car; this is just one of them. Please leave a comment if you have any suggestions for others to help them do a better job if they're about to undertake this.
Thanks for watching & reading!
You don't need to take side panels out, just the seats. After that - you can lift rear panel just enough to remove the sub.
Will. Great video. I just did this yesterday on my LS. every step was accurate. Saved me a lot of money and only took a few hours.
Hey Will, just wanted to let you know I've used this video twice now for reference! First for wiring my custom audio: running power and RCAs back through the firewall, and second for making it easy to install coilovers. Just think its cool a video you made 5 years ago is still getting good use!
That means a lot to hear, thanks! Glad it is helpful.
@Styloren. what route did you go with the wiring to the trunk? Doing it now.
So you didn't have to remove the sunroof and the front bumper? I'm surprised.
🤣🤣🤣
For real
Hahahaga
Thanks for such a detailed explanation
Great Video! Clear, concise, and informative. thank you!
The original subwoofer is 16 ohms. You should be able to measure 12 ohms. An 8 ohm speaker will in time shorten the life of the amplifier.
it is actually 12.5 ohms and you are correct a new Mark Levinson will be required . These amps are extremely sensitive to impedance loads , ask me why ...
If you can find one, a dual voice coil 8 or 6 ohm sub will work fine if you wire the 2 voice coils in series, black to red
so many damn steps for an obviously vulnerable part of the car. they knew what they were doing
Engineers, Designers, and Bean Counters are always constantly cursing each other.
2024! Still very informative! Thanks!!
Thanks Will! You are my x-ray machine. What I mean to say is that, many times trying to get a panel off... (if I only knew where that one fastener giving me trouble was?). It may take a few try's, but I get it off. Sometimes the part or panel gets ,damaged. I don't want to damage anything on my Lexus. Parts are not cheap! Thanks for doing the ground word!
Bro , I want to thank you allot for your video i do the same with my lexus I installed the same subwoofer and it looks perfect.🖒
Glad this was helpful!
great buy. I did the same 4 years ago the Polk will take whatever you give it.
Awesome video. I just purchased the Kicker CWCD84 8" woofer!
Hey, just wondering all this time later how that sub worked for you? Thank you
@@toxichawkz885 it worked good. Car has almost 300,000 miles
Can you do a video how to replace the front dash tweeters
Oh man! love this info! thanks bro! i didn't want to pay $1000 for replacement. God bless you!
Glad this was helpful, good luck!
Thank you! I will try my first DIY
Hey Will, do you think you can make a quick video of how the Polk subs sounds like? Because I rather get the same subs if it’s better than OEM mark levinson
@@Nu-Typeh sure, I actually did a sound test video a while ago, let me know if this helps. kzhead.info/sun/grufisWFmZqCgpE/bejne.html
Hi, I’ve not added a comment to anything car related before but...bought my son, who is 6’6”, a 1998 Lexus ES 300 and it turns out his legs are way to long/tall for it. Is there a way to move the seat back further than the factory range/settings? Can something be installed to take the seat back further and if so, anyone got a good idea for how it can be done? Thanks.
Very helpful! Thank you!
Ok it seems these speakers have been discontinued but there was a replacement suggested by a Lexus forum from Dayton Audio. One difference I see is the OHMS. The Dayton brand is rated 8 and Polk is 4. Would I still need to jump this speaker like you did the polk?
Hi. This is an EXCELLENT show-me-how, great job & thankyou : Motivated me to have a go (My speaker isnt blown but something is resonating under the decking, I needed to have a look to see what and then apply goo to stop it) .... however after having a go I discover that my LS430 seems subtly different you yours, the headrests are a little different and more specificially the 4 bolts that pass through a bent rod slot at the bottom of the seat back (easily seen on your video) on my car dont exist, There are some bolts that (probably ?) do something similar but they are higher up almost behind the seat and have various bits hanging down from the seat back in front of them so they are impossible to access. So I couldnt get the seat back out and I am ashamed to say I gave up at that point, put the base of the seat back together again. :-( I love the LS but I have to say this "Mark Levinson" branded stereo (IIRC ML himself was long gone this was just Madrigal cashing in on the brandname) is the worst thing about it, everyone seems to have wrecked speakers and even though my speakers are OK the sound is thin. The unbranded stereo and the centre console in general on my previous LS400 was IMHO *much* better !
My factory dub has 4 wires how would I go about wiring the new one?
Will, Thanks for walking through the process. Good to know that three years later the Mark Levinson amp is still working even with sub running at a lower ohm load. Do you ever hear any clipping coming from the speaker? What volume level are you usually listening to? Just nervous about running a sub rated at 8ohm when oem was 12ohm. Whats the reason that this sub gets all the love compared to other dvc 4ohm 8' subs. Wondering if something that is designed for freeair and lower RMS rating could make more sense. Kicker 44CWCD84 JBL Stage 82AM . Did you consider any other sub models?
I've never heard any clipping at my listening levels, which may max out at 35-40 onscreen for short periods. I think the reason this model got/gets all the attention is because it was really the only option a few years ago. There are definitely better and more appropriate ones out now that I will seek out if this one ever fails.
Do u know if can acess trunk threw the inside in any way?
Hello . I have a Lexus GS 430 III uzs190. I am looking for the best replacement for a Mark Levinson woffer. Would you recommend something that will sound better than the original woofer (with the original ML amplifier) ???
Is there a way to hook up the front 2 door speakers and sub to a 4 channel amps
Technically yes, but I think using separate amps for the sub and door speakers would be easier to implement. Search the Lexus forums for aftermarket subwoofer amplifier installs and you will find some great tutorials & pics for installation, wiring, etc.
Thanks for the video, Will! Great job. I've got a 2008 GS 450h that requires the same treatment, but am not looking forward to the task, only the results. Did it ever occur to you why the engineers didn't design this by bolding in from the bottom up? Really quite a silly placement of outstanding equipment. I've read quite a bit about how Lexus Dealers will DIAGNOSE ML audio issues but are contractually prohibited from performing any work. In addition, ML will apparently only replace whole units, not individual components. The best-engineered products always seem to have someone who insists on being the gremlin.
I love my local Lexus dealers and service departments. They did say they would replace my ML door speakers, but I think the cost was close to $1000. The OEM parts were most of that cost. Stupid engineering decisions often come back to the bean counters asking engineers to make the vehicle & its assembly process cheaper. To Lexus's credit, I encounter those situations the least with their vehicles I've worked on.
For those looking to replace or recone, my ML LS430 sub was 12.9 ohms.
Removing the back seat is a full days worth of work. Geesh 🥵
naaa half day at most!
Will, have you any updates on the sound? Other people are wondering, as well. Thanks.
I made a sound test video recently (link in description here)
Would this work with IS F?
Thank you for the video.. I have the 2004 ls430 with rear massaging seats that also recline back and for electrically and center console with electric powered curtain shade on back window which raises and lowers.. it appears their are covers for two rear speaker each side but honestly I'm quite intimidated to even try after watching your vid lol
Same for toyota aristo ??? Mines stock jbl sub??
My sub also got blown in my LS460 - these subs are 16Ω. impedance. You have the right methodology but be aware that "impedance" is resistance in a coil and "resistance" the ohms is through a circuit. Its not the same but the end result is that won't blow the amp.
Ah great point! Thank you for sharing.
Hi I have on more question do i need to measure it with a multimeter or can i just do the wiring and install it? I really would like not to go buy a multimeter
Multimeters are only $5 at Harbor Freight (or free with a coupon!). But if you are confident you wired the coils in series correctly, then double checking with a multimeter isn't vital.
Thanks for your video. Really clear and informative. I'm about ready to do this project on my 2004 LS430. The question I have is what sound deadening material are you using? I've been looking all over the internet for quantities of less than 50 sqft since I'm only addressing the rear deck . I plan to use the Polk Audio DB842 DVC to replace the OEM ML sub woofer.
Jerry Phillipeck anything will work as long as it is secured well. I was lucky since my neighbor is restoring 2 cars and was at the interior stage where he had left over sound deadening material. You could get any noise insulation stuff and just tape it in really well if need be.
I've also changed the sub with the same Poke model shown here, but sound testing so far it it seems to be out of phase, though the polarity and connections were properly done. Phase testing should also be done after replacing a sub, because correct polarity matching doesn't always mean the replacement speaker will be in proper phase with the systems outer speakers. I'll check this later today and get back.
oh that's joking
Hi there! Great video. I have a 2004 LS, same problem. I want to buy a Polk DB840 but I only see single voice coil versions and no dual voice coil. Can I still do this with a SVC version ? Many thanks..
Dario Zubic hey i have the exact same question. did you happen to get an answer
Does anyone have a sound clip with an aftermarket amp in the same location??
Hey Will, great video. I am about to do the same install. Just wondering if you had any issues after replacing the 15 ohms sub to 8. Please let us know. Thank you
Still going strong! I'm sure there are better options on the market now. Let us know what you end up with.
I have a 95 ls400, do you think I could replace them like this as well?
I have never worked on an LS400, so cannot confirm this. Hopefully you can put your hands on a service manual and find out. Good luck!
good job, thank you
So I can’t find the original specifications on the subwoofer defined out what the impedance should be when it’s not blown. Getting a 12 ohm measurement makes me think it’s on it's way out. Did you wire your sub in series or parallel when you installed it?
Basket damage or not, your factory sub should measure around 12 Ohms unless there's physical damage to the wiring, magnet, voice coil, etc. (very rare I believe). The one I installed was a 4 Ohm with dual voice coils, so I wired them in series to get 8 Ohms. It is harder on the amplifier, but 4 years later it's still going strong.
Still working good? Interested in the work of the amplifier ML Thank you
Ирина Яковлева yes, this Polk is still working well with my stock stereo! We'll see how well it survives this hot Texas summer.
Good video I’m currently replacing my sub in my ls430 how was the Polk sub base wise?
Better than my stock ML one if I recall correctly but I'm sure there are better options out there now.
If you're going to all that trouble to replace the subwoofer, I'm going to say this would be a good time to replace the air suspension with coil overs because the rear suspension is a PITA to get to.
meh it’s not really that hard lol
I noticed this is not marketed as a free air subwoofer like the oem one? Does it still perform well despite this?
Yes, but I am sure there are better options out there now.
@@WillHennegan do you know what speaker wire gauge to use? I'm trying to keep the same gauge as the oem harness
@@ajf5745 the factory harness was smaller than most charts would recommend. I think I used 14ga because I had it lying around and it was thicker than what was there.
@@WillHennegan so the average wire from a home theater system will be fine? Are there also no issues using a different gauge than the factory harness?
@@ajf5745 pretty much! As long as you are using quality copper of equal or slightly thicker gauge than what's in place, you're in great shape.
Great DIY! That sub is unfortunately no longer available new.. It would be great if someone who has done this recently to update what a good other replacement would be.
After looking into this, the first one I would consider is the Kicker 44CWCD84. Similar to the JL in my video, this Kicker has dual voice coils that can be wired in series to produce 8 Ohms of resistance. Also, it's got their "Infinite-Baffle Operation" design, meaning it can be installed in enclosures or free-air in factory sub locations (though covering the rear deck holes like I did should still produce better sound). It also has a similar 4" mounting depth as the JL. Give this one a shot and let us know how it goes!
Will Hennegan how did this go??
Brett Triggs my JL is still going strong. I'll make a performance video on it soon when time permits.
Will Hennegan thank you thank you thank you. i could not find that speaker anywhere
Can you just buy a 8ohm subwoofer and not do the jumping?
Can this upgrade be done with a 2005 LS430 that is a non Mark L stereo model?
Chase Tiemeyer Probably? I would bet that, while the head unit is different, the speaker setup is similar, if not identical. If you have a sub on the rear dash, it's probably the same.
Thanks for making this video! Very helpful. However, can't you just pop the grille cover off and take the sub out through the top without removing the seats or trim? Seams like a lot of unnecessary work.
Pop the grill off and have a look. You can see the element but cannot access the fasteners or wiring harness connector :(
Yes u can. Pop the cover… u will have to cut a little of the particle board… but once the cover is back on it will hide the damage. I did my Speaker in about 15 min.
Does the deep bass sound the same worse or better compared to the stock sub?
Way better. There are even better replacement elements out there designed for free air too. Repairing the original is a good option, but while you have everything apart, and since a replacement is relatively affordable, why not upgrade? :)
Does that sub perform in that interior baffle design?
I'm not quite sure what you mean, but I'll take a crack at it: the Polk in this video was designed for enclosure use, which is why I added lots of matting to seal up the rear dash more. Fortunately, there are some other newer models that are designed for open air mounting that would probably perform even better. If my Polk ever dies, I am certainly upgrading to one of those.
Do all 430’s have the 8 inch sub in the back?
I cannot say for certain, but every LS430 I've seen has had one.
How would i go about doing this? i have a 2006 LS430 Ultra and that comes with the rear reclining seats with massage and a cooler.
91myroc probably not much different from this video but for a few more wiring harnesses and bolts. Don't be deterred
This is a great video! The reason why the OEM speakers don't last is because they're light in the ass and made out of paper like material.
100%!
What you recommend for my Lexus gx470? Need to replace subwoofer
Sorry--have not worked on one of those yet, but if I get the opportunity I will report back.
@@WillHennegan thanks!!!
May I install an 8 inch kicker instead of polk?
Possibly. What model?
www.kicker.com/comp-c-8-svc-subwoofer check this link plz
a oem ml sub in a very good condition so i removed my kicker sub but reinstall it after just 5 minutes . Ml sub didnt sound as good as kicker so i will stick to kicker sub its ben 9 monthes and never faced any trouble with it. Thanks again will
What kicker sub did you use?
@@colorsafebleach5381 Kicker CWCD84 CompC 8" Subwoofer Dual Voice Coil 4-Ohm
@@colorsafebleach5381 just wire it to get 8 ohms
profanum Very good, thank you.
@@colorsafebleach5381 just to know the ml subwoofer has a range from 7 to 14.5 ohms so 8 is in green zone
After doing some reading searching about the Mark Levinson system, I just get the impression that there can be alot of problems with speakers blowing. I thought this was supposed to be a drop notch system? Why all of the problems with this system? Now is this from loud playing or is it from poor quality? A bit disappointing to be honest with you.
Kielbasa Glen good question. I listen to loud music roughly 25% of the time. That certainly would take its toll on any stereo. However, I am still impressed and satisfied with this ML system overall in quality, durability, and sound. This one speaker that I've had to replace was over 10 years old, and survived that many summers where I've measured internal car temperatures at over 150 degrees. All foam/rubber elements will degrade over time in an environment like that. I am still perplexed as to why they used a 12 ohm speaker, but have had no problems with my replacement.
I feel u Bose , Alpine & beats by Dre make the best car stereo systems
Need how to video for an ls460
I'd love to make one! Give me a LS460 and I'll crank it out quickly. :)
Would it be easier to remove rear window
I don't think so; I would recommend against trying. In addition to risking breaking a $500 piece of glass and compromising the factory seal, you would still need to remove the side garnishes & rear deck, which require all the other steps in this video anyway.
I'm doing a similar job on my jzx100 and you have no idea how many of these parts are the same....except Lexus has a finer finish
Very cool. I think those were sold as the Cressida here in the US, then we were just left with the boring but unkillable Camry after '92.
I understand that the LS430 is a luxury sedan and all, and that the intended buyer for that kind of cars when new will not be working on it at all, but really, (and I am a Lexus fan) gut the whole back interior of the car just to get a speaker out??? why not just bolt the grill from the truck, make it removable and get the speaker out that way. I can appreciate the fun part of gutting your car, I did that to an old car I bought many years ago to clean it.... but to replace a speaker... IDK about that
i found a link to show how to do it the easy way. I with a sharp knife cut around where the bolts are, then bought a speaker repair kit off eBay for $20. Removed and glued the new rubber. re-installed works like a charm.
@John Sluder why junk?
Always be gentle with ur nut covers.
I myself took only the parcel shelf out took me a while to figure it out no need to take out the seats
How?
This was an excellent video of how to replace it correctly. However, can you just get the grill off, without taking the whole back deck off, to replace sub woofer?
Great question! I just double-checked that, as I would've been very frustrated if it was really that simple since I had done it the hard way. The short answer is no, not really. While you can see the woofer, bolts, and connector, you would not be able to remove anything without cutting or damaging the rear deck. Definitely remove the grill first (can be done by hand) to see if your speaker does in fact need to be replaced, and you'll see what I mean.
Thank you!!
I did this yesterday and it took me 15min? Why did you go through all of that? It has 4 BIG HOLES right next to the bolts just use a Dremel rotor and do a bigger clean cut to reach the bolts! It's stupid simple and the speaker and the holes that where ALREADY there from factory are covered!!! The car is 10+ years old, this is the first time the speaker has been looked at who cares if he holes are a little bigger no one will know for another 10 years! AND it does not effects outdoor or quality cause it already had big holes! All this extra stuff is nonsense and a waist cause IT'S COVERED and already HAS BIG HOLES! Again took me 10 min!?
I care :) Not my style. Glad your job was quick tho!
We're glad the short cut worked for you. Most people doing this job consider doing just that. This walk-through is for folks who would not mind taking some more time to do it right and make it sound better. This is not an open air sub. By removing the rear deck, you are also able to cover all of the large holes in the rear deck frame to form a more solid enclosure for this element and make the bass much fuller and deeper. This is the main reason for doing that work even if you don't care about cutting up your interior trim. Do you have to do this? No. Is it worth it? After hearing how much better it sounds, yes, I would do it again in a heartbeat.
Wouldn't it be easier to just disconnect the stock sub and install one separately? It seems a big headache to service the stock sub and it looks to be a cheaply made speaker as well.
Trying to find a sub that matches the impedance of the stock one is near impossible
Thank you
i’m not sure if my sub is blown i can’t find out how to remove the speaker cover. plz help
NAlder the speaker grill just prys off. If you just need to see the speaker element. Just do it carefully.
Will Hennegan so does it snap back on when you’re done?
NAlder it should as long as it was removed carefully!
Will Hennegan thank you
Will Hennegan i’m not sure if it is blown it’s rattling but if i put a tiny bit of pressure with my fingers it doesn’t rattle and sounds normal
Is it still working and would you recommend the same sub you installed since mine is blown a few days back
faisal alryiami the JL is tough to find. After looking into this, the first one I would consider is the Kicker 44CWCD84. Similar to the JL in my video, this Kicker has dual voice coils that can be wired in series to produce 8 Ohms of resistance. Also, it's got their "Infinite-Baffle Operation" design, meaning it can be installed in enclosures or free-air in factory sub locations (though covering the rear deck holes like I did should still produce better sound). It also has a similar 4" mounting depth as the JL. Give this one a shot and let us know how it goes!
Will Hennegan www.sonicelectronix.com/item_16143_Polk-Audio-db840DVC-FREE-Upgrade-to-2017-Model.html Found it but will follow your lead on this one
Ah I hadn't seen that yet! Looks good, and I think either option will work. Sift through the reviews and go with your gut.
I installed the kicker you recommended and just let me thank you sir it works even better then oem ml subwoofer 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Great to hear! I may upgrade to that Kicker myself.
Hmm I've thought about this and I would have use a JL series sub instead of polk audio to match the factory because of durability and sound quality (very low distortion at high levels) I've had a w7 for years and can't comprehend buying a different sub yes I know the ohms on those vary but they have many types just saying.
paul mogendi haha!! there are so many better options for your $. by all means, keep paying for the name.
Yes JL is excellent, but try finding one that can be driven by the mark levinson amp at 40w
The oem is 16ohm?
I am pretty sure the resistance of the Mark Levinson OEM equipment is 12 Ohms.
Could I just get a subwoofer hat was 8" and 8 ohms instead?
Yep! If you find a good one, please share it here!
16 ohm sub at: www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-SD215A-88-8-DVC-Subwoofer-295-484#lblProductDetails
Hello, it was much easier to repair the old subwoofer. 8Om is not enough, as the native subwoofer had resistance 15 Om. and it threatens with the fact that the native amplifier at high power will either come out in defense. as well as can fail.
You went the long way.
Can you please make another video of the sub playing a bass or rap song!?
I could, but the the frequency range of my phone mic wouldn't really capture the low frequencies to accurately reflect how good it sounds! I can tell you this speaker sounds better than the stock one to me, which is quite an impressive feat without upgrading amps. The fact that i also patched all the holes in the rear deck frame are also a contributing factor.
Awww that's too bad because I really want to hear it!
But you should do it anyway !😊
Excellent video even though I dont own a Lexus
volvosweden lol
plz help me. i hooked mine up and did the same as you but it’s barely making noise. even when i turn it up, it’s not moving a lot either.
I would double check your wiring and connections first. A weak solder joint could cause this. If everything looks good, you may have a defective amplifier or woofer element. If your old woofer was blown but still trying to hit hard, then your factory amp is probably fine. That would put the likely issue on the new speaker and/or wiring. Good luck!
Will Hennegan thanks it’s probably my wiring then because my old one was kind of working just rattling.
would there be a good way of checking that? besides just taking them apart and putting them back together
@@nalder1093 I think you would need to remove the woofer so you can adequately check the connections. Ensure you're using 14 AWG wire (or thicker), good solder connections, and well-insulated from shorts. You should be able to do a good sound test before puting everything back together. Wiring the voice coils correctly in series with proper polarity is key too.
Will Hennegan i didn’t solder mine i used the crimp connectors to connect my 12 gauge wire to the positive and negative of the car part. maybe because the car part wires are so small it’s not a good connection. so i’m thinking i take it off and use a smaller size crimp connector, would that work?
Still working good ???
Ryan Sak yes. Still sounds great. Highly recommended you do the full job without shortcuts to get the best sound.
I've alrdy taken the short cuts lol. Using a razor blade to cut away and access the sub better and have the speaker cover, cover up and damage. But I got a cheap sub on amazon and not only did it not fit but it either blew or blew the fuse in the amp if there's a separate one for the sub(everything else works). But all the forums talk about ohms issues so thank you for the fast comment. Purchasing sub now 😃
Dam no demo
Nice writeup Will. I have a 2005 LS430 with the Mark Levinson / Nav system and the sub blew out about a week about. I did the EXACT same sub upgrade today as you did and unfortunately, when I tested the sound afterward, I barely heard the sub. On a normal pop type song, which has some bass notes, it sounds like 25% of what the OEM sub sounded like. On really deep bass notes, I can hear the sub firing at about 50% of what the OEM sub did on normal songs. I've verified the audio settings through the factory NAV system, which didn't change and I even turned the bass up 75% louder than normal and still the same minimal bass result. The best way I can describe it is, it sounds like the Mids and Highs are great (as usually), but the low bass is completely missing, except for really heavy bass notes, where it sounds deeper than the OEM sub did, but there's a large gap of bass missing where it was always there before. I've listened and put my hand on the new sub while it's mounted in the car, and I can definitely tell it's firing, but the overall sound now is disappointing. The OEM system went from a solid A grade before, to a now C+. Any ideas of what could have happened? (I bought the Polk Audio DB840DVC sub new off Amazon).
Brad J hmmm did you measure the resistance across the channels after wiring them in series? Did it hold close to 8 ohms?
I didn't, but I told my trusted audio shop to wire the speaker for 8ohms and verified they wired it correctly. It basically sounds like the factory amp is too underpowered for the DB840DV. Does your new sub sound as full as the old OEM ML sub? (I'm tempted to ask about setting up a mono amp to power this new sub, but would rather not spend that extra money (3-4hrs of labor + amp = ~$500) just to obtain the original OEM bass levels again if the DB840DVC is cable of doing this with the factory amp itself. I've read mixed reviews on different blogs where some people who replace the OEM ML sub with a different 8ohms sub had the same issue as me, but other like yourself are satisfied. I'm just wondering if a drop in bass is expected when performing this exact upgrade, or if mine "sounds" off?
Brad J I would suspect something is off; mine sounds better than factory. It may also be due to the sound dampening material I added to make it more of a sealed enclosure. Did your guys do that? The ML sub was designed for open air, whereas this replacement was designed to be enclosed.
Hi Will. You're right. I think the main issue is, and this was only noticed after the speakers were installed, is the Polk Audio db840DVC 8-Inch Dual Voice Coil Subwoofer is NOT a free-air sub. Therefore it requires a box to produce the normal bass you'd expect from it. They also did not add the sound dampening material. If I could do it all over again, I'd specifically look for a free-air sub, like a Kicker Comp C8 8" install here: www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-3rd-gen-2001-2006/781638-8ohm-kicker-replacement-for-ls430-ml-sub-still-available.html. Since I already spent $120 in labor, I'm just going to live with the lack of original ML base until I sell the car.
I wonder how much more bass the sound dampening material would help? Right now it sounds like there's 50% bass missing compared to the ML OEM sub I replaced.
Help me!!! I can't find the bracket I need to know how to find it or the part number...... Please help meeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
Which bracket?
@@WillHennegan Hey Will, bought my LS430 brand new in 2005 and the ML sub just gave up about a week ago. I was wondering about the wiring in the sub when you jumped it, did you use both pieces of the wire ( positive and negative) to jump the sub or did you use the negative side of the wire on one part and the positive on the other, thanks! (Edit: I see you used negative speaker wire for one side 15:28 , just wondering about the other side).
@@vargasdominick basically the voice coils are wired in series, so the harness from the old woofer connects to the + of one voice coil and - of the other, and the remaining 2 terminals were connected together to complete the circuit. Hope that helps!
Will Hennegan Thanks Will, I just see you used a single negative wire to jump the negative and positive part of the sub, then you used two separate wires for the other negative and positive. I was wondering if the part of the speaker wire you used was relevant, since all speaker wires come with both a negative and positive side, thanks!
Ahh,@@vargasdominick wire is wire. What makes it + or - is what it is connected to. As long as you're using a proper gauge to handle the anticipated power/current, you should be good.
How is it performing?
Still working great even at high volume! I'm not sure if it's still available, but there are some newer suggestions for 8ohm DVC woofers in comment here somewhere.
@@WillHennegan it's tough to find good free air(infinit baffle) sub. I need your advice abt this sub sir
@@chennai9090 check out the Kicker 44CWCD84
@@WillHennegan thanks a lot sir
Can you just remove the speaker cover?
Unfortunately, the mounting screws are not accessible unless you can lift the whole rear dash.
@@WillHennegan ok. Thank you.
Any updates??
4 years later and still kicking strong. I'll see if YT will let me post a sound test video, but they're pretty militant lately of anything with unlicensed background music. This JL speaker hit 129dB on my SPL meter, which is above the pain threshold and more than I expected. Edit: here's a sound test kzhead.info/sun/grufisWFmZqCgpE/bejne.html
@@WillHennegan excellent, I'm just looking for replacement for my ML sub now, the Internet is full of different opinions so its nice to get some genuine feedback.
@@aking610 Good luck! There are also some good speaker suggestions in the comment here. Anything that is designed for an open installation with at least 8 ohms should sound great.
i dont know much about speakers but why does the sub being at 4ohms decreases its life span?
If the speaker/driver impedance is lower than the rated minimum resistance of the amplifier (In this case, 8 Ohm driver powered by a minimum 12 Ohm amp), you run the risk of over-working the amp and eventually blowing it. Think of the amp as an engine and the speakers are the gears in the transmission. A 12 Ohm gear set in the transmission moves the car efficiently while keeping the engine in a safe RPM range, while a 4 Ohm gear set in the transmission waits to shift at the red line, working the engine much harder. Wiring the drivers in the subwoofer in this video in series to bring it up from 4 to 8 Ohms works the amp harder than a 12 Ohm speaker would, but not nearly as hard as a 4 Ohm one.
Jump = series wiring
If it blows u ain't putting that crap back in look at that thing lol. Car systems always are so shitty quality compared to after market they look like cardboard. I here people talking about sending there woofers in and spending hundreds on that, it's simple replace speakers sub and it's gonna hit twice as hard and u can make adjustments from the amp and have a bass booster nob aswell cause stock headunit sucks for tuning. When u have a good headunit and can tune it makes all the difference being able to adjust and not adjust can make and break a system. So atleast after u install after market amp u can make some adjustments from there so ur way better off then stock. Good job tho I like the video!!
Thanks, excellent points!
You are not “jumping “ Or “shorting “ the voice cool, but connecting both coils in series .
Thought I corrected that later in the video but you are correct, gold star :)
Do a audio test
I do test it every day, still sounds great :)
Mahalo!!
That’s a lot of steps nice video I’m afraid I’ll damage something I’ll take mines to brandsnart
heat seater
You can try using aftermarket speakers Polk or other brand subwoofers...The speakers will not perform an not sound as well as factory due too the built in amp. These amps are set too balance an sound equal...All these POLKS will do is ruin your system eventually. If your foam is worn an torn, order new foam cushion glue an you have like new original speakers again for less that $20 for new speaker foam cushion..
where can i order it?
The Polk sounds better than the original ML sub
Not true whatsoever. It will not ruin the system. I've upgraded my Gs430 with a free air JL Audio 8ohm subwoofer mind you this sub is now discontinued. Powered by an Alpine amp. Yes, factory ML amp is in place powering everything as it should minus the sub. I used the powered ML sub wires direct to the Alpine amp input then to the JL sub. It sounds amazing and "way" better than OEM. Absolutely no rattles and has been going strong for over 8 years.
@@Mr.Titan322 I just replaced my sub, i used a weatherstrip foam that you can find at Walmart in the RV section, or you can use the foam strips that they use for sealing wind drafts on windows and doors in your home. 5/16 or 3/8 wide should do. i used 1 layer between sub and the original bracket and then another layer on the bottom end of the bracket that goes to the car's deck. something like this: www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-E-O-1-1-4-in-x-7-16-in-x-10-ft-Black-High-Density-Rubber-Foam-Weatherstrip-Tape-R516H/100090883
@@eugenek7627 perfect thanks bro!
I have a way to do it in 10 mins removing nothing. Re foam kit works for not much money at all
Anyone else have issues with the big seatbelt screws being torqued too the fucking moon??? I stripped out both trying to remove them and now I’m shit outa luck
Isn't a garnish something you put on a hotdog or something...lol
don198769 yes, but Lexus calls them side garnishes in the service manual so I rolled with it.
So no bass test? I hate it.
Gabe Ulrickson maybe re-read the video title? :)
Would have loved to see it play in action 😆
so, take apart half the interior....
atp im just gonna cut a bigger space for a bigger sub lmao.
Cover the wires with tape good grief