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As others have said, "dress" the bar every once in a while - file off the burrs and make sure the rails are even both sides. Also, its a good idea to always scrape the bar channel FROM the nose sprocket TOWARDS the open end, that way you aren't filling the nose sprocket with crud (and blow it all out with an airline if you are in the worksop). The little flat end of the raker depth gauge that comes with any sharpening kit is specifically designed for this, there are even little measurement lines on it to check the depth of the channel. Personally I do this every time I sharpen the chain, and then flip bar at the same time. Only takes an extra minute or two to clean down with a small brush, flip the bar and reinstall once you get proficient 👍
As a NYr, dad gave me a different set of skills, and as I transition from military service, you are like the dad I really need, as mive into a new chapter in life, as I want to be a homesteader. . You are a Father to 10s of 1,000s that need your wisdom, thank you & God bless you always.
All of what you have stated PLUS: 1,. For myself, I decided not to try to run all the fuel out because of the possibility of getting a lean run and damaging the engine. Instead, I run all the time and store with 92+ octane, alcohol free fuel with Stabilizer. This has worked perfectly for 30+ years. 2. I also clean and degrease the recoil side of the saw AND degrease the cylinder head to ensure even cooling with no 'Hot spots' on it. 3. I grease the needle bearing on the power side, and frequently replace the sprocket drive. 4. air filters are cleaned with a grease cutting water based liquid, rinsed and air dried. No pressurized air is used to avoid compacting debris into the filter pores. Meanwhile, your experience and expertise are sincerely appreciated!
The air filter should be cleaned with air from the inside i.e. in the opposite direction to the airflow otherwise you will compact any dust and dirt into the filter. Also, its a good idea to clean the spark arrestor in the exhaust because if it gets clogged the engine will not pull and will eventually die. These are also the signs of a blocked carb or a bad coil and they always happen when you are out and about desperately cutting a batch of wood.
Actually the Air filer should just be replaced compressed air can create hole in the filter media.
I just take the spark arrestor out completely forever. Let's it breath better
@@elijahjones3915 The spark arrestor is there for a reason and is mandatory for certain markets. If it is fitted then its to stop the possibility of any ignition of the vegetation, which may be naturally tinder dry that can result in a wild fire. My 30 years old chainsaw is not fitted with one but then I live in a temperate climate that is often too wet. Maintaining the cleanliness of your spark arrestor ought to be part of the regular servicing.
@@clivewilliams3661 yea true
Or, you should be using a foam oiled air filter.
As my dad did logging with a team of horses in the late 1930s 40s . He taught me to mix a bit of kerosene with my bar oil when cutting pine. Makes a big difference in performance with the sap and pitch. Thank you for the video. Blessings Ed from ct. Over here on the east coast.
Thanks for the advice
Yep, Dad taught us that, too.
I clean with kero/diesel (same except untaxed kero is died red, get huge fine if dot pulls red fuel from road trucks) it has many of same basic solvents as gasoline with far fewer vocs and less chance of explosion. I never thought of thinking bad oil with fuel tho, my god, that's like genius yet simple. I now to your grand master grandfather. Seriously..I don't know how I never put those two together. I use fuel or `orange` sawblade cleaner to clean my bars from pitch. Man, I'm speechless...
Awesome I'll try that. Thanks
East Coast represent! Lol
Great video! I bought my first saw when I was 19. It’s a STIHL 064 with a 98 link chain. I believe it’s a 30” bar. I’m 53 now, and just used it yesterday at my Dad’s. It still runs like a screaming machine.
I have a 028 Wood Boss I bought in 1985. Still has original plug and runs like new.
Very valuable information. Thanks. As for running them dry for storage, I used to do the same, but decided to go the opposite after it was explained that the tiny little channels in certain eares of carburetors get varnish buildup from the residual mixed gas on the surfaces, and after as few as one storage cycle, or at least a few will shlghtly shange those dimensions. He explained that as long as the residual gas from a primed carburetor does not completely dry up, it will be flushed out with a fresh mix in the next season, leaving no varnish on the surfaces. I know it is a long winded explanation, but I did follow his advise and got far better reliability from all my 2 strokes; saws, trimmers, outboards, etc.
Same, I never prep for storage, I keep it ready all the time, I do clean it like he does though, I use diesel for cleaning
I'm running a 1978 Homelite chainsaw i rescued from a scrap yard last year, replaced all the fuel lines and the thing runs beautifully. Saws can last decades if you look after them!
My "east coast" MS461 wears 25" or 36" bars depending on what I'm cutting... When I do maintenance on my bars I inspect them for wear on the edges and file them as needed to remove burrs and to even up the wear surfaces. That burr can be very sharp so avoid running your finger over the bar edges! Also make sure the roller nose is turning free... clean and lube with bar oil as needed. I used a lot of gasoline to clean parts in my life but when working at a bench indoors a safe cleaner that I found works well is Simple Green. When you clean the air filter put the switch in the start position to close the choke before removing the air filter. That keeps debris out of the carburetor. Regarding the spare roller bearing for the clutch drum. I grease my spare and carry it in a little zip-lock parts bag.
I usually blow around filter b4 removal and flip saw so it's facing Dow just in case I free up stuck junk. Never though of choke, that's incredibly smart.
I'm an "EAST COAST" guy, living in Upstate New York State, and I resent the notion that the bar on my chainsaw could only be 6 inches long! I'll have you know that I've got a matched set of 8" and 10" bars for my 12cc Rubbermaid saw!
Best comment here! Too funny!
I actually just found a 10" saw on the side of the road in Saratoga NY . But I grew up with 12"-16"
Dan B I found a pole saw along the road in Saratoga when I was building a barn there. That’s funny
@@kylebrown8891 Saratoga people have the best tag sale leftovers.
He is a know it all snob
Right there with you on keeping a saw ready to go. I live out in the middle of nowhere, just a group of houses surrounded by farmland for miles on all sides. Had a tree come down during a wind storm and block the only road in or out. Out of the whole neighborhood, my saw was the only one running right and able to clear the blockage.
Happened to me once, except I had to get a neighbor to cut it, since I didn't have my Stihl yet.
Oh boy all that farmers must have been calling you a hero
Smart move, Be Prepared 😊
@@bobkalinoski8447no they hate him for being smarter than them
A good tip for saw bars. Remove from saw lay the bar flat on something flat file the bur or lip that can form from running the chain to tight. It will make you think the saw is dull and you can file it as you want and it still will not cut properly. It's good to keep an eye on it
Pro Tip for Airfilters: if you blow them clean with air, make sure to blow from the inside out, otherwise you're just pushing the dirt into the mesh and make it worse.
right!
I was thinking the same thing when i saw him do that. Also, if I was blowing all that oily sawdust and junk off my chainsaw, I'd do it outside so it doesn't get all over my work bench and garage floor.
How do you actually get inside to blow to the outside?
Paul by removing the filter. Looks like a cup or bowl
Just like washing a car from roof to hood to sides, here in Omro, we have village idiots who wash from bottom up and then wonder where scratches come from or why still kinda not shiny clean like my cars and bikes. Guess common sense was mis heard as cents and people passed on paying to be common. Can't think for themselves anyway... good reminder tho, also try not to blow directly into your oilers as can force debris into them and then don't oil properly or makes them leak when not in use.
When cleaning air filters with compressed air, always blow from the inside outward or you will force debris into the filter.
That must be a west coast thing
People and filters are funny. Every time they try to upsell me a more expensive filter, I always take the time to educate them that a thicker filter will not only wear your pump and fan motors out more than cheap ones, but the cheap ones will eventually start acting like expensive ones as soon as they collect enough debris. And you are absolutely correct that filters should be blown from the inside out. This must be a west coast thing😆
Suss you said it 6 months ago whereas the comment below mentioned it 10
So what? Your just being a jerk now, who goes thru a years worth of comments, esp, when there are 1000 plus? Stop being a comment karen.
@@pantigersizzle5761 to
Right on, some good tips. No matter how much you know, there's always someone who can teach you something new. Silicon sprays work real well and will not damage plastics or rubber. They also work real well on sliding patio door rails.
I use wax for zippers and white lithium for patio door sliders, just need to wipe and reapply before snow falls.
Well said. Best to keep an open mind, learning never stops.
Just don't spray silicone on something you ever want to paint. You'll never quite get it off and the paint will be a mess, even if it just sat in the same garage you sprayed something else. Lesson learned by a friend of mine (car door waiting for paint, paint fell right off) ;)
@@fimbulvarg1213 solid advice. I sell silicon in a big way and of of the main properties is it’s ability to stick to substrates.
As an East Coast faller, we use the tools appropriate for the job and that ranges from 16"-32" bars with full wrap handles believe it or not. It doesn't matter if we use a 36" bar or a 6" bar like you say, the trees will still kill you
Well, I'm an eastern guy an run a 24" bar on a Husky 562xp with a full wrap handle, and fish bass with a spinning reel while casting with my right hand. I also clean my air filters correctly. However, I don't much have to worry abut sap, as I cut big red oaks, hickory, cherry and rock maple. None of that wimpy western soft wood.
Uni-Byte Haha... He said SOFT WOOD...!
@@troystutsman1400 Yeah, he didn't worry "abut" his choice of wards :P :D
Lppppo
@@troystutsman1400 You do know the difference between softwood and the colloquialism "soft wood", right? You must be a western guy if you need this explained to you. Ask your wife.
@@Quacks0 From a guy that never hit the wrong keys in his life. I often wondered what it would be like to be perfect.
your saw chain should always be SOS snug to the bar oiled and sharp. the best thing we ever bought for our saws was the sthil 2 in 1 file guide it sharpens the cutter edge and does the depth gauge/raker at the same time no faffing round with different guides and files do it regularly its to 2 passes with the file guide and its razor sharp note it requires special files that are indexed so you can turn them to get fresh cutting edges normal files wont fit the holder. these guides are available for all the common chain pitches. another point purchase a cutter chain to suit what timber your cutting and the type of cutting is it clean standing timber or is it dirty, is it already felled and have the ants carried sand or dirt into it does it have heavy tough bark etc all affects the choice of chain. and always have a spare chain and spark plug in a toolbox with the saw spanner and files so you can grab the saw, its tools, fuel n oil and go do a job. nothing worse than not having the tools to adjust the chain when its loose if it comes off it could injure you badly it could even be fatal.
Piece of advice after working in an auto shop for years. Brake clean is a good general purpose solvent. CARB clean is a hazard to use and should be avoided when possible. It melts many kinds of plastic and tends to be even more flammable. Use carb when you have to, but this is a job for brake clean.
Always file any burr off of the edge of the bar while you have the chain off. Also hold the tip of the bar up while tightening up the chain. Thanks for the tips and another great video
I hate when you have to tighten in the middle of cutting and the guide bar is super hot. Maybe I need thicker gloves.
11 minutes into your video you became a man after my own heart. I am an Amsoil dealer and I love their products. I've been using their engine oils since 1977 and never ever had any problems with my engines in my vehicles. I use the Amsoil chain and bar oil and it is amazing. I mix using their 100 to 1 and the engine purrs like a kitten. I haven't tried their mud slinger yet but I will now that you reminded me of it. I start my cutting about 9 am and cut until the dogs hunt me down to get home and feed them. I run the saw about 7 hours a day, three days a week.
I don't suggest cleaning your airfilter with compressed air. At the higher pressures (used for cleaning the rest of the saw) you could actually blow holes in the paper pleat. However if your going to do it, always blow your airfilter from the inside, through the media, outwards.
Hey DIY, If you're going clean your chain in a pan of your choice of cleaner, here's something that might help keep the junk off your chain whilst cleaning it..put a smaller square baker's cooling rack (dollar store cheap buy) that has CM or more clearance from the surface and place it inside your cleaning pan..use a small square one not too big or you'll have fill it with a lot of your cleaner, Also you can just get one of those disposable foil casserole type foil pans and just dispose of the pan and the dirty fluid can go inside an recovery bottle or container.. I've had pretty good results with the dirt and junk settling to the bottom of the pan and minimal grit back into the bar and track areas..
Thanks so much for this video. Several years ago I researched and got lots of info on sharpening a chainsaw. What a change in my confidence and it sure makes you look like you have the saw everybody wishes they had. Thank you also for the little tips on storage!
Good point on E85. The alcohol is corrosive inside the fuel system and engine. So I only use the non-ethanol gas. Large stations often have a special pump with it (here in SC anyway).
Nice video. I totally agree with buying the pro saw! I currently have a 361 and a 201tc. I usually just use a simple green to clean mine up though and avoid the carb cleaner as it can eat paint.
Yeah the eating paint thing I learned the hard way using brake cleaner
Good to see someone giving quality advice. Not a KZhead but a small engine mechanic doing Saw's most the time. Good video! Keep up the good work.
You're so right about the left-hand reel. It never made sense to me why anyone would cast and then switch hands to reel. That's what my friends do (not casting with their left hand). What a bunch of wasted effort and time. I'm glad my midwestern dad taught me the PNW way.
“Safety Sally” 🤣 The “Karens” before Covid and social distancing.
3:23 "sometimes you just have to take big risks in life." Absolutely sir!
Hey, I have a MS260. Hasn't been into a dealer in about 17 years as I'm not sure who (experience level of person) will work on it so I service it myself. Love the machine, power and reliability. Thrilled to know you have the same wolf in sheep clothing.
I didn't scroll through all of the comments to see if anyone else mentioned it but another thing you should check is the exhaust system to see if there is carbon buildup. If that builds up over time it can choke the saw down
when you clean your bar rail/grove ALWAYS go from tip to tail! You don't want to get that junk up in the sprocket if it's avoidable
Good point
Not trying to argue but it doesn't matter, that sprocket getsfar more junk forced thru it with use by the chain. When putting up, it works very well with some sprayed wd40, then blasted with air, then a light weight oil like thin tool oil. I start at one tail go to tip, around sprocket to other tail, then clean a and oil sprocket ,not forgetting oiling holes in thebar.
The trees never complain about my 20in bar - they all fall for it!
dlb83082 DeltaDan treehee
@@austinwebb8986 gawd dammit, you 2 CUT that out before this becomes a tumbler/Reddit post.
@ DeltaDan Make like a tree and get out of here !!
Nice
Great comment.
Hello, awesome information I watch your channel often and have a 260 Stihl like yours. I’m having difficulty finding a 25” bar that’s compatible with my 260, could you provide more information about the bar, chain and sprocket you use for your MS 260.
"sometimes you gotta take big risks in life" made me laugh, i love sarcasm
Love the East Coast West Coast stuff though I am on the East Coast I have a sense of humor and can take a joke keep it up great work
R&S Tree Service LLC I second that remark.
Yea, this is better than watching Oprah or Dr Phil! lmao!
Your sense of humor is a sapling
Never blow into the air filter, you imbed the particles into the paper. Always blow from the inside out. \
For sure, serviced lots of farm equipment you blow it from the inside out.
To clean the air filter I use my ShopVac with the soft fiber brush attachment. The soft bristles help dislodge dirt and sawdust that gets into the pleats. Then I remove the brush, reverse the hose and blow gently from the inside. NEVER use compressed air on a filter
You don't blow out your air filter at all, it just damages it. If it's dirty enough that you think it needs cleaned then what it needs is replaced. Period!
As much as a chainsaw cost and how little the filter cost you should just get another one...
I clean the filter very carefully. However, I really don’t get any pleasure from paying the Stihl dealer $12 for a replacement filter. Treat it gently, don’t let it get totally crudded up.
The tip to clean the grooves in the bar is excellent. Mine caused the oil to stop getting to the chain. The Stihl wrench end can be used for this purpose.
Bought the Shindaiwa 488 (long ago-not worried about dealer assist), it's the japanese cousin to the Stihl 260 Pro. For most people, American loggers love Stihl/Huskys, if you were a japanese logger-Shindaiwa would be the go-to brand. Learning your maintenance is REALLY important. Cleaning with gasoline-well, I would do it outside. A little wind makes it evaporate quicker. And most women share a common opinion-they REALLY don't like a guy coming in the house smelling like a fuel pump. 🤣 (Experience)
This guy immediately reminds me of my grandpa. He took great care of everything and it lasted an eternity. He died with stuff that should have been junk years ago!!
Sorry for your loss
im on the East Coast and I use an 18" bar, but I tell my wife its a 20"!
And yet she knows it’s really only 6” lol
Prepperjon hey!!! Don’t be spreading rumors!! It’s 6.4 inches! Every bit counts! Lol lol lol
hdrjunkie use metric, it always sounds more impressive! 16.25 centimetres
Its not the size that matters its how you use it
@Robert Slackware original :p im jp
Extra bar nut is important, they tend to vibrate off and you seldom find it again. The spark plugs seem to last a long damn time ( years)unless your using really crappy 2 stroke oil/ gas. If your saw starts sounding weak and slow, often the air filter is getting clogged up with saw dust.and we just crank the oiler up all the way on the big saws. After putting your chain on use the scrench to roll the chain forward a few times and then tighten the chain. I never use ethanol .If we put a few saws away for the winter we dump the gas out, put a few ounces of trufuel and run it until its empty. Never had a problem starting come spring for 25 years.
East coaster here… that was the best laugh I’ve had in a long time! 😂
Here in the upper midwest, I do my heavy cutting with plenty of snow on the ground then let it lay till spring. No dust, no leaves, chain doesn't touch the ground AND most important, I sweat very little with all that protective gear on.
I use an 18 inch bar, I was taught that I can take down up to a 36 inch diameter tree. As a homeowner that would be a huge tree. I have a friend who is a logger and the biggest bar he uses is a 24. I guess I want to see the 82 inch diameter trees that he is taking down all the time making the giant bar necessary. Personally I like not having to mortgage my house every time I need a new chain!
As carpenters / rough framers in MI, we use left handed porter cable frame saws - very light and powerful and can see the blade when cutting.
That is useful info Wranglestar!
"Sometimes you have to take big risks in life."
0:40 When we evacuated the first thing i grabbed was my ms460 and ms066, true words were never spoken. Only one narrow canyon road between us and the valley.
it is super facinating watching your chainsaw related videos despite the fact that ive never owned a chainsaw, i dont need a chainsaw in my area yet its fun to watch
My question is related only to my old o38 I recently cleaned the carburetor and that made it run wild. My question is I tried the carburetor adjuster screws but it didn't adjust up or down and I'm wondering what I should do next
“Safety Sally “ would have died from a heart attack if she was ever with me more than 15 minutes when I was growing up. Great information video. I even learned a few things about end of season cleaning and I have been using a saw for over 40 years. Cleaning a chain was definitely something I never really thought about.
There's always a little gas left in the carb. If you leave it in there, it will turn to varnish. A better way is to fill the tank with stabilized fuel, and run the engine for about 5 min. to get that stabilized fuel into the carb.
I can't even count how many small engines I've had to repair because the owner stored them with fuel stabilizer in them. Just my stepfather alone (76yrs old) fully believes in it. Every season I have to get his mower, saw, generator, and push mower going. Horrible stuff . It doesn't mix well with ethanol at all.
@@simpleman2627 Really? I've used it in my lawn tractor for years and it starts right up every spring.
Only non ethanol fuel should be used in all small engines. No need to run 2-strokes dry. Make sure to use fresh fuel next time its used. My Stihl 029 sits sometimes for a year or more.
I store mine with True Fuel and Fog it.Bought my used 260 many years ago and hope it is always going to serve me.
Finally someone else has said it! Left handed reels just work better for a right handed person. I'm on the east coast and everyone says i'm crazy. They won't use my rods. Thanks for the video. I run a 261 for firewood. Love it. Going to give it a good cleaning after watching this video.
Never thought about flipping the bar over when sharpening. Great point. Thanks for the tip.
Flipping bar also keeps tightest channel on cutting edge bottom, wobbly chain give angled cuts.
We clean our saws every time the chain needs to be sharpened, when we remove air filter put in choke so the air intake is closed..
Great idea!!! Thank you
Funny. My dad cleaned parts with gas too. Thank you for the memory.
FYI ...This guy wouldn't have known this because he's only had it for one season, but if you have the new filler caps, the o-rings on them wear out if you use your saw often and will leak both gas and oil. Highly recommend checking them out and replacing them every other season if used often.
I live in the eastern part of the country, here we use 24" bar and a two man crosscut saw We cut wood with the crosscut and our chainsaw with the 24" bar we use them to butcher our deer and bears with, we use the 14" bar and chain to fillet our fish with.
I've found that using a Dremel, with 7/32" stones is superb to filing. Could be rotary grinding vs perpendicular? I'm in N. MN, and things have to work out here too. I'm using a 455 Husqy w/a 24" bar. Same reason...less leaning over when limbing.. Just draw your correct degree angle (or a strip of tape) across the dremel for your parallel line. You're smart...you'd figure it out.
I have been using an MS 462 for a number of years and have already worked with an MS 500 and would advise all beginners against these saws. Because they are just too aggressive and you need a certain degree of excitement and sensitivity.
I've been an AMSOIL independent dealer about 20yrs, own and operate a motorcycle / UTV shop and that Mudslinger is some good stuff. We use it on every customer's machine before it goes back to them. Also agree the Maxima SC1 is a great product too - but I get the Mudslinger cheaper. ***The key to using the Mudslinger though is to spray the item down and then let it sit for about 10min - then go wipe it down, clean off the excess.
Didn't know they made such smalls bars like that 32" hmmm interesting.
...for the small stuff: kindling, toothpicks,...
In NY, while you west coast guys are dying your hair purple, i use the 6" bar to trim my nose hairs.
what hair?
Where in NY? I'm just outside Syracuse. :D
East coast advice. Be sure to use a ripping chain when trimming the nose (or other) hairs.
@@singJJBplay Same here. South of SYR...in Jamesville.
@@davec.3198 Nice! Liverpoool myself, Town of Clay, not the Village of...
For the maintainance of the Chainsaws blade i got some awesome bike chain oil recommended, which is specially made to transport the dirt away from the chain. [Edit: The Oil is called "Finish Line Cross Country Bike Chain Oil, long Term Lubricant". I just took it out of my toolbox to look it up again. Not sure if it is also available in the US or Canada, i am sure other Companies offer similar Products. ] Of course one has to be careful when applying it, so the entire chain will not get covered in it. Thank you, @Wranglerstar for your awesome sharings. I miss those times when i could do such things bymself.
Great video. Most of the tips are basic chainsaw maintenance. If people don't know these things, should they really be using a chainsaw? Especially which way to install the chain. Nevertheless a good video on chainsaw maintenance and cleaning. Good points on having a few consumable spares in your kit. We've all been there when a basic item fails and we've forgot to check our spare parts kit and a new pull cord isn't in there. Keep up the good work
I keep my MS 271 with the 18" bar by the back door and cover it with my hair piece. The heated bar makes it comfy to put on just before I go out in the cold. Greetings from Virginia!
Here in the Mid-west we reel with our left, punch with our right, cut trees with dozers and know yippees live on both sides of us.
Best comment yet!
@Trevor McFarland The newer 33s have a reversible handle like spinning reels. I have plenty of both styles. I hate the older 33 for the same reason. Find myself using the newer version when I use spincast. Good reels for kids and gran kids. Until they learn to use other reels.
Illinois here i reel spinning reels with my left, bait casters with my right. 🤷🏼♂️
AMEN,I live about 5mi from EAST ST. LOUIS(Grew up about 45 from Detroit),THAT'LL toughen you E/W pussies up!
Yippies huh? lol
Most fishing reals are ambidextrous. You can move the handle from one side to the other, very simply. Also, it may take us a little longer to get the job done with our Eastern 6" bars, but with a little perseverance we manage just fine. It's fine. Really.
I love your little jabs, “you East Coast guys have a littler bars, they’re the same thing except this one is just a little more masculine.” That’s funny I love that kind of humor. Thanks for the great video.
Lol I like the jabs as well, live in the Adirondacks and use up to a 36” bar.
Man, I grew up using gas to clean everything. In a medal pan. Without a grounding strap
yea, i spent a lot of my childhood riding in the back of dad's pickup and used lead paint, never own a car seat, played all day deep in the forest. It's a wonder I'm still alive!
Spent my childhood growing up with skyrockets, unprotected trampolines, billy carting without a helmet, climbing trees and swimming creaks. I’m still standing. Once they put out the coal seam fires in India and Pennsylvania I’ll stop using petrol to clean my chainsaw.
I winterize my chainsaw by using it close to everyday. Fall, writer and spring are the tines I use it most. Fall-winter being the definite most.
"A man needs to know how to sharpen his own chainsaw".............you're absolutely right.
Loved this video. Very informative from a guy who actually uses the saw. As a (east coast) carpenter I know how a tool can be almost like an extension of your body. Well done, thank you.
I think the non-ethanol gas part is a bit over-rated. I've gotten 15+ years service out of my crappy Lowe's Poulan Pro, same spark plug, never changed the air filter, never put anything but the cheapest 87 octane in it, and never emptied it for "winter storage". Last thing I want to do in the winter when trees come down is to have to try pulling 25 times to get new gas to run through the lines, nor do I wish to take the air filter housing off and douse it with starter fluid. I just keep the chainsaw stored between 50-80 degrees year round, and that really seems to be the trick. East coast carpenters are over rated too- as a midwest carpenter, I can do pretty much anything an east coaster or west coaster can do, besides the accents! 😛
@@Rick-the-Swift Anyone not using non-ethanol gas in the northern regions will be rebuilding or replacing the carburetor guaranteed. If you run your saw all of the time then it's not such a worry. But ethanol draws moisture into the lines and fuel and is detrimental to any small engine device. I only run non-ethanol fuel in my motorcycles, my sports cars, and any tool that has an engine. I never have problems with them and temps vary from 100F summer to neg 40 winter. I have learned the hard way and on any tool that I've used ethanol gas in and has always needed repairs because of that crappy gasoline.
NEVER blow out an air filter by blowing parallel to normal air flow. Blow counter flow, less chance of driving accumulated dirt INTO the filter.
HAHA I actually laughed out loud, "6" bar"
Is that a his 6" or a hers 6"...
I didn't know he was funny eh. I suppose his soft wood out there is a real challenge.
Just did this whole procedure on my Husky and Stihl last night. Used brake cleaner instead though. Was hoping for some new info, but good video for those who don’t know. Unfortunately, people usually learn these things the hard way.
use brake cleaner as well.
I'm a midwest coast subscriber (Hoosier) and the one thing I've learned about my 20" Poulan Pro is if you can get it to cut, just keep that chain filed down and whatever you do don't take it apart and mess with it! All I needed was a squirt of starter fluid but stupid me decided to take the chain and bar off for a wee bit of maintenance. There design make it harder than Chinese arithmetic to get it back together after it's unscrewed. Now I'm off to buy a new chain for the perfectly good one that just flew off and was ruined, and watching fun videos like this one. Yay! Great vid too btw 👍
Greetings from Florida. I keep a chainsaw ready to go in my truck during storm season
I just got my first Chainsaw over here in Plant City Florida. Went with the Stihl MS271 with a 20" bar :) I have toiled for months on getting one but with Dorian on the way i wasn't going to chance it. We have also ran into so many situations trail riding in our off-road vehicles where a chainsaw would have saved hours of back tracking. Good to see another Floridian on here!
Anthony, Floridian here too. I’m in Oviedo. Dodged a bullet with Dorian, but the chainsaw was on the ready.
Winter Haven here.
I'm from PA, I keep mine in the truck all year, and I will say, depending on how often a person uses their saw is more important than anything else in their choice, I have a 30 year old jonsred 625, I used to use it logging, starts in 3 pulls, runs great
I do the same thing.. might be because I'm from FL
You guys on the west coast, be careful with your big chainsaws...at least make sure your husbands are out there with you in case something goes wrong.
Mike Smith hahaha lol👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
HAAAAAAA!
It's all fun and games until you realize you left a hot chain on your bar to stretch out while you were busy pumpin' your cousin! East coast has stereotypes too, how about that?
ROFL... and he likes the way my chaps look, okay >.>
Im a lumberjack and im ok.
a pleasure to listen to a practical, knowledgeable and zero-bullshitter kind of guy. Good video !
A question please. I bought the ms661 before 3 days. I usually use the Alco mixing oil. But a friend of mine told me to use only the Stihl Ultra mixing oil. What do you have to suggest me ?
Use stihl oil to keep your warranty in tact, from what I understand
I glued a magnet to my chainsaw so I wouldn't leave my bar nuts sitting somewhere. It's a nice addition to a saw if you don't have captured bar nuts that don't come off.
Just replace the stock nuts with nylocks.
When cleaning the valleys in your bar you should scrape from the tip to the base in a direction away from the sprocket. Otherwise you can potentially introduce debris into the sprocket and lock your bar up.
Also handy advice for cleaning your junk...nothing will send you to the urologist quicker than crud in your sprocket.
@@southernviking71 scraping your junk from the bottom to the top action to prevent getting debris down the tip of the shaft and creating problems..
Oh boy, I gotta get out here... I've lost it now for sure...(sorry bout that)
And never put your junk down in the dirt! Vaseline, vinegar, or whip cream is fine, but NEVER in the dirt!
cleaning with diesel is great too....then i save the old spunt diesel to mix with dirty old oil for fire starting etc... and i save old jugs, and oil bottles to put old dirty flamable liquids in😎 Godspeed brother😇.
For cleaning my chains (saws and bicycles) I do 4 steps (each about 1/2 hour). (1) Soak and brush it a few times in Gasoline. (2) Transfer it to diluted Simple Green (soak and different brush). (3) soak and brush in mineral spirits. (4) soak and brush in Isopropyl Alcohol (rubbing alcohol). Each step removes grime and residue from the previous step. Following step 4, hang the chain to dry. The isopropyl alcohol evaporate really well, simple clean shop rag, wipe and you will have the cleanest chain possible.
LOL.... it’s not the size of your bar, but how you work your chain
Lol
Drum roll 🥁 pls!!
Says the guys with a smaller bar. The ones with a bigger bar can get it done with less effort.
that's not what she said
Bigger bar can reach the deeper fibers 😉
love the videos , fell a 60-foot plus wide spread out tree In my own back yard in NW suburbs with many obstacles in the way ( power lines, 2fences, and 2 roofs ) without any damage , all thanks to your educational videos , I've been a subscriber since ,that's actually how I found the channel. I'm originally from Poland , and always found odd that the casting reels are right-handed for the right handed people, all my friends found it weird I would get left handed rells while being right handed , but it just made sense, so THANK YOU for mentioning it in this awesome video!!!
as a technician i use silicon spray lubricant on basically everything and its amazing. it really freshens up plastics.
Deisel works great for removing pitch. Gas is a great parts cleaner as long as you are careful. I have been using it for parts cleaner for the past 45 years no problems. You might as well grease the needle bearing in the clutch if you have the bar and chain off. If the shaft has a hole in it you don't have to remove the clutch.
The pre war aircraft hanger I used to work in at Harwell Atomic Energy Research Establishment UK was reputedly haunted by the ghost of a WW2 RAF fitter who had been cleaning gun components in trays full of aviation petrol. He was in a small engineering service room snd the trays were in front of the door....
UV protectant is pretty necessary when you keep the saw in a case inside of a shed....
I have another pro tip... Blow the chainsaw off outside so you don’t get oil and wood chips all over the place.
It's a workshop
riggshouse 577 “it’s a workshop” is not the point of my comment. The point of my comment is to do it outside too not make a mess inside...
In Australia we would wash it in the kitchen and the pull down and reassemble the job in the lounge room, not to far between the fridge and TV. .... he he he 😉
@@simontheyers547 niiiiiceeeee!!
But the Harley in the living room is in the way...
Best information I’ve seen on KZhead on a Stihl chainsaw, I thought I was cleaning mine right but I was wrong. Thanks, great info.
Good video, like the flip the bar trick. Never did that. By the way, blow in the opposite direction of air flow when cleaning a filter, you're just causing the dirt to embed in the filter. Cheers from British Columbia, where my 18" chainsaw is used for cutting weeds.
Gas and Kerosene mix will clean good and brake cleaner for tight spots. 18" bar works great when I was cutting firewood back in the early 1980s. That saw is still running
Got a 1984 husky 60 cc and she runs like new
I started with a Lombard, until I watched stock Partners right out of the box win the chainsaw competition at the Pual Bunyan Show at Hocking College.
I have an old yellow McCullough with a manual oiler that still fires,it needs a clutch but there's no doubt that it won't run, I think it's a 555.
Chainsaw is always doing something . Stihl ms250c 18" has been a good saw . I use an air compressor to clean my saw but it gets everywhere
Love my ms250c
Another item for your spare part kit: plastic cap for gas/oil tank. I had one of the plastic caps break at the end of a cutting session in -10 deg weather. Now I carry a spare.
what about cleaning out the little holes on each side of the bar at the tip, then oiling or grease the roller bearing on the sprocket? the sprocket at the tip needs to spin freely, blow it out with your air hose. I use a stiff putty knife to clean out the groove on the bar, but a broken hacksaw blade will also work.