Do THIS Every Time You Buy A New Chainsaw Chain! How to avoid your chain from popping off.
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My name is Bre. I took two years of small engine repair at the local college. When I left school, I fell into a wonderful job at a local small engine shop where I worked the counter for a couple years. In 2010 my husband and I opened up our own small engine shop in central Arkansas where I am able to work alongside my family and best friends. We see over 2,000 pieces of small engine equipment every year, and answer 1,000's of small engine questions. We specialize in brands such as Briggs and Stratton, Kohler, Echo and Shindaiwa, but work everyday on MANY other brands like Stihl, Husqvarna, Honda, Craftsman, Remington, Red Max, Troy Bilt, Scag, Bad Boy, Hustler, World Lawn, Poulan, Mantis, Etc.. Hopefully, my experience I share, will save you Time, Money and Frustration in the future!
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Although very informative, these videos are for entertainment purposes. Please use all possible safety precautions when repairing and operating your small engine equipment.
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i know my chainsaws through n through watch all these types of videos and none are right. to my surprise i found one thats all correct and thoroughly impressed its a good looking womans video
Some of the things on your Amazon wish list can't be shipped to a wish list address 😢
@@JnitraM078 Really! Thanks for letting me know! I had no idea.
It's worth mentioning to make sure your saw is oiling properly/bar grooves and oil hole are clear. Lack of oil will cause a chain to stretch due to excess heat from friction.
also worth mentioning that a good brand of bar oil will cost more, but it will provide much better lubrication than the discount brand.
@@kenbrown2808 true. Stihl oil isn't what it used to be. I've tried both echo, and fram from advance auto parts and been happy with both. Boswell is the best I've ever tried if you can find it.
@@kenbrown2808 Good can be had for a discount just need to figure out which is which.
Right on, I could not agree more!
I saw she had a piece of cardboard near where she was running the saw.. I assume this was to check the spray pattern of the oiler.😀
Hi, I am 61 yrs. old and have been using chainsaws since I was 15yrs old, yet I never knew to look for 3 drivers to be free of the bar when you lift it. So, you just earned a new subscriber. I would like to also tell you that you are a very good teacher and I am a man that is not afraid to be taught by a younger woman. I don't have the problem of chains coming off but I have been running my chains too tight all these years. Thanks Luke.
I always do 2 w the 3 rd tip almost out
3 it’s is
3 drivers out of the groove is too loose for my taste. Never threw a chain on any saw.
@@savage22bolt32in vide did look like a gap more than I would prefer I 50% of the time lift the bar. Yes new will stretch I'm a novice did not know about the chain catcher at bottom. That was really nice she has the set up for making her chain size not sure cost of them tools yet good to know
@@duke6024 Yesterday, I let my chain get a a little loose. I was up in a tree, pinched the bar and pulled the chain off. Glad I was wearing gloves! Got the chain back on and was really careful on the last few limbs. Generally, I tend to like tighter rather than looser chain slack.
Watched a guy who uses chainsaws everyday. He takes the cover off the chain drive clutch assembly an completely cleans all the craps out of the casing, cleans the bar and chain and lubes them. He then mixes fuel for next day and tops up his bar oil. On starting each day he checks chain is being oiled by revving engine and seeing some oil being thrown off. A professional at work!
They say "cleanliness is next to godliness", but with a chainsaw, it's next to impossible.
I've been running chainsaws since I was 13, 49 years, and no one ever told me about the way you tension a chain, glad I found your channel. No wonder I've worn out so many bars😁
Thank you for teaching me that I will never buy chain in 100' lengths. I also did not know I should lift my bar up while tightening the cover. Thank you.
Their are 2 reasons why you lift. One is that the bar will go up eventually and then the chain just become loose again. The other is so that you can take advantage of the felling sights that are built into the powerhead (engine). If the bar isn’t brought up then the sights will be off.
I enjoyed your video, I'm 70 and have used chainsaws for 50 years...that being said, you have taught me today. My Grandpa told me something when I was eight years old.... when you stop learning, they are shoveling dirt on your face... thank you for today's lesson!
Hi Love from the UK. I am retired now and I worked on every make going. Mainly Stihl and Husqvarna. I was a gold standard Husqvarna Technician. I have encountered everything that you mention and every variation that anyone can think of. The majority caused by incorrect chain tension. Generally most owner users haven't got a clue about using one of the most potentially dangerous tools that anyone can use. Some get away with it and some don't. BUT.. please use ear plugs of defenders. when you get older you WILL have hearing problems. WHAT SHE SAY... AND don't keep blipping the throttle. Raise the throttle up to full chat and then lower it back to tick over. It allows the run in of the new parts. once again great video, it brings back thoughts of all the crazy things customers did.
Nice to see a young lady making mechanic videos I’m to old to make them not a software guy just infrastructure and fixing trucks and small engines! Thank you, I share them with my kids
TY - as a part-time backyard "weekend warrior" from Oz, I greatly appreciate your advice on mowers/ride-ons & chainsaws - please keep doin your thing!
In addition to a spare chains I have a spare bar. This is a hold over from when I only had one saw. If I misjudged tension/compression and pinched the saw, I could unbolt the powerhead, install spare blade and chain, and cut the pinched blade free. Then carefully inspect blade and chain for damage before using again.
I just learned this lesson. Put my extra bar and chain in my car (sawing offsite) just in case.
Been there, done that!
Just love what you share here. Your last point about a spare chain, is dead right. In my box is a perfectly good used chain, plus a new spare spark plug, etc Now I'm retired, when I chain wood i stop 15 mins early and use my compressor and brushes to "blow it all clean", then lovingly sharpen it, ready for tomorrow. Looking after tools is half the fun of having them....
stopping "early" is also a good safety tip being overly tired is when accidents happen
Great video. I’m in my 50’s female. Cutting trees and learning everything from my 80yr old dad. Your videos are so informative.
My supervisor at my last tree care company was a lady in her 60s, didn't start her career in arboriculture until her mid 40s!
Same here. Just turned 60, and quite efficient with the chainsaw, as well as safety conscious. It blows a lot of people away, especially men, to see a woman handle these machines with expertise 😊
I've been cutting for a while too. Love the work but always learning. Always respect the tool.
I learn something new every time I watch your videos. I love saving time, money, and frustration! ☺️
Of course. Most ppl that watched this don’t need to be reminded.
She is the chainsaw " whisper "!
⚠️Bedding the new chain into the old sprocket is one reason the slack increases initially with the 1st few runs. Also it beds down into the old bar groove also
Love your channel. Please leave the glasses on or off. It messes with my head.😊
Excellent tutelage Bre! I’ve been using chainsaws for decades and still learned a few things today😊
When you replace a chain or sharpening it’s a good rule to check the bar for ridges. Side dressing the bar greatly improves the cut. Also turn the bar over to even put the wear on the tip.
Ranch dressing or can i use Italian?
Honey mustard.
May i ask what you mean by "side dressing" the side of the bar? Thx
@@thegreatshitstain yes sir sidedressing the bar means to remove the lip that forms as the chain rolls around the bar. I use a belt sander but you can do the same with a file. Remove the bar a run your fingers from the middle of the bar out to the edge. You’ll find a ridge. That needs to be removed from both sides of the bar all the way around. Lay the file on the side of the bar and file the ridge even with the rest of the bar. Pay attention to the nose of the bar. Now when you’ve done this clean out the groove in the bar. You can use a hacksaw blade to clean it out. Pay attention to the oiler holes near the back of the bar. You need to rotate your bar occasionally. The main wear will be on the bottom side of the bar. Turning it over equals the wear out on the bar and give you longer bar life
Do not run fingers allong bar lol
Great advice and thanks for your channel from Australia. I had never owned a chainsaw before but got a 14" Ego skin bundled with a multitool kit. I used it a few times and the chain popped off almost every time. Got a bit gun shy about flailing chains and basically used the pole saw for my occaisional need for one. It had been sitting in the shed and I was planning on getting rid of it when I came across this video. I'm going to get it out and work through your tips.
Also a good idea to check the sprocket or rim sprocket when replacing a chain. If the sprocket is too worn, it can tear up a new chain. A worn chain on a new sprocket can cause premature sprocket wear.
Agree with you on that. I do every time I put a new chain on my saws and anytime i go clean them
Yup.. just had to change mine yesterday!
Grease front sprocket.
I’m surprised it wasn’t mentioned that a worn grooved sprocket can throw a chain .😁
That’s great info! I was taught many moons ago (over 45 years- I know I’m old) to just make new chains slightly tighter, cut for a few minutes and then check. Your way I like better because once you start cutting, you never wanted to stop.
And dont strain on clutch and engine
I appreciate your channel. I'm so damn hardheaded that I rarely take time to listen to good advice. But when I do and the info really helps, I am grateful. So, thank you.
Really great explanation, thank you. I've been using chainsaws of various sizes for four years now with heavy use in the summer. It took me a while to fully appreciate how much chains stretch and the increase risk of them slipping off when rapidly removing a lot of small limbs. It's so important to routinely check the chain tension when you're making a lot of cuts. I still slip a chain now and then, although more rarely, and every time I do it, I kick myself for not making more frequent tension checks.
*At **9:05**, you can almost see the 'nervous sweat' trickling out of those trees. LOL*
Thanks for posting a video. Worked on small equipment for state DOT and always learn something new from your videos or refresh my memory ( month unconscious with 104 temp will do that to you!) great channel I share with friends!
I'm really happy to see someone who gives people tips like this and the safety tips that you give
I just started working on my own Husqvarna chainsaw so I've been watching a lot of your videos and find them very helpful, useful and full of DIY knowledge and know how! Thank you for your very useful teaching ability! It's awesome!!!! Thank you Ms. Chicanic
Thanks, Bre! Hope all is going smoothly with the shop transition, as well as the Mr's joint replacement! Stay safe
My first proper job in 1970 was repairing mower’s trimmers chain saw etc which did for three years small business in the uk love the way you explain things in joy your blogs
Hello. This is the 3rd video of yours that I have watched. I appreciate your teaching methods and I have learned something new each time. Thank you for making your videos straight to the point, clear and understandable rather it's DIY repairs, trouble shooting, or preventive maintenance. Looking forward to more!
Great advice. Have been following this procedure whenever I install a new chain and in my 60 years of cutting I have only had one chain come off while cutting.I must also have to admit that I am extremely jealous watching you start all of those pieces of equipment so effortlessly. Oh, to be young again.
I get a lot help from your channel. I'm very good with large engines and diesel but small engines ,chainsaws etc not so much. Recently because of your channel I redirected two discarded chainsaws and one line trimmer. Thanks for your help.
Great video, I'm just a typical home owner that uses my saw on occasions. So this is good info that I never realized. Thank you!
I didn’t even do a search for this video but needed it since I just bought a new Echo saw. I don’t use them much but I e already gone through two chains. I had to cut down bamboo, and all sizes of saplings in a bed. Now it makes since. Thank you
Putting together videos for my grandsons to learn proper techniques this one is good.
Check your sprocket as well and soak your chain in chain oil also helps
Learned more from this chainsaw video than any other and I’ve watched many. Thank you so much !
Just LOVE your no-nonsense, straight talking truth! Thank you so much! Wish you were in my city. Keep well, keep making videos!
And your clutter is like my garage and back porch since clearing out storage. The wife and I are swamped with life so it will get better eventually. I hope you open up the new shop soon, when I need a part I usually needed 30 minutes ago. Thanks for making the channel and all the info, it has helped me a lot.
I love the sounds of chainsaws early in the morning and two stroke smoke it’s almost as good as a cup of coffee. Great tips as usual, your shop reminds me of when my kids got ahold of it lol.
Very helpful! I was having this happen with my newer saw and finally realized that I needed to check chain tension frequently. I even discovered a little tool for this stored in the saw itself!
read the manual ,which of course us guys never do .lol.
@@davidkettell1073 Even the name sounds like it's in another language!
I just had chain throwing incident just couple days ago with my 455 Rancher, it trashed three of my drivers ripped the tips of the drive links right off. $24.00 bucks down the drain. I did have spare chains on hand and I was back to cutting in no time. Thank you for doing this video on this topic , I found it very helpful to prevent this in the future. I going to like and subscribe right now. Thanks again.
Wow. Finally, an informative and complete explanation. My problem is solved. Thank you.
I was a first time chainsaw owner last February. I noticed after my first few cuts that my chain was a bit loose. Easy to tighten. I also learned from another that once it cools down to check that it isn't too tight with the metal contracting. I know to watch for this with a new chain.
When cutting smaller limbs I always use the top of the bar instead of the bottom which pushes the debris away instead of pulling it in! The chain catcher on my saw is pristine the only ding on it is from when I loaned it out to someone. Great video Bre and btw awesome new shop, however I don't envy the mess you have there haha!
@@440tomcatThe top of a bar, is not the Tip.
Ya man I hear you on loaning saws. Last 2 guys I loaned a saw to broke it. Getting tired of paying for others lack of skill. No more loaning saws, they buy their own. Or any tools for that matter. Employees can be really hard on tools.
I have no brother or friend that I will loan my chain saw too.
Loaning out tools/equipment. What I've learned, if it has a motor or engine don't loan it, if it doesn't have a motor or engine still don't loan it.
top not tip ;-)@@440tomcat
Last year was the first time I ever had or used a chainsaw and I soon learned I had to get a sharpener and learn to sharpen because it saves money, I have 3 from last year ready to sharpen with my little Dremel sharpener but I forgot how so I was going to watch the tutorial again when I stumbled on your vid. I'm 60, btw. My little chainsaw is just 10 inches and a Ryobi. I hate when it throws the blade over and over. Watching and learning, I cut a lot of trees last year with my little chainsaw and pole saw, both ryobi 10". Thanks for making this video. Everything makes a lot of sense. You're an angel.
Excellent content here, for sure. This information can prevent injuries. A good reminder for many of us, at the least. Thank you!💯
I had one chain stretch so much I couldn't use it, would not tighten up, and it's a Stihl, only one I've had do this. Great video, I don't have a chain jump off often at all but noticed having to re adjust, makes sense!
Just take a link out.
I think my father used to have 3 or 4 spares for his chainsaw back before he retired. In the early days he used a round file to sharpen them in the evening, then he got some sort of holder for the file, and the last years he used a dedicated grinder for it. You never know what you're going to hit when cutting down a tree, and he was clearing fields for farms, so some might have old nails or crampons holding pieces of mesh fence or even barb wire deep in them. And since he did this mostly in warmer months, the trees were full of sap, and that also takes a toll on chains. (He didn't just cut down trees, he dug out the roots, dug trenches and laid down drainage pipes and backfilled. Not something you want to do when the ground is frozen solid.)
Saws have an uncanny ability to find the ONLY nail in a forty foot tree! Ask me how I know!!!!
@@tomrogers9467 They might just as well rename them 'Metal Debris Locators'
Thank you for sticking with your channel while building your shop.! Never had a problem with my chain But in case it dos happen I'll know what's causing it.! Thank you.!
After watching a few times, you are a very Educated young lady and very intelligent when it comes to chainsaws. I want to thank you for this KZhead channel, it definitely helps the new generation and even us old dogs can still learn from a person like you and you know dealing with the public sometimes there is just very little common sense, Can’t buy a book on it. You have both comment sense and very well educated and if was definitely a lot of self taught and experience for sure. Thank you 👍
I agree 100%. New chain, the adjustment tool stays in the back pocket for the first tank of fuel. By then, its generally broke in. One other thing is I never like to break in a new bar with a used chain. Start new bar with new chain. Great video!
Timely video, as I just bought new chains for my little MS170 on Saturday. Decades ago I was taught to tension them to the point you couldn't easily lift *any* drivers all the way out of the groove - sounds like I've been over-tightening my chains for years.
I HAVE MADE NEW CHAINS FOR 45 YEARS. I ALWAYS SOAK THE. CHAIN IN BAR OIL FOR A FEW HOURS BEFORE INSTALLING. YOUR CHAIN WILL NOT STRETCH/WEAR NEARLY AS MUCH, AS INSTALLING A DRY CHAIN. Guaranteed
First time I've seen your channel and I'm impressed. Have spent years in the woods and your spot on with your advice. Now you have a new follower. Keep up the terrific advice. I will tell all my logger friends about you. Be safe.
Every time I watch you Bri, I learn something. This was brilliant. How cool if you and Ron would do a post together. Thank you.
The chain elongates due to wear at the pivot points, but also due to heat. Don't forget to make the chain slack before you put the saw away.
"Make the chain slack before you put it away" So smart to eliminate another mysterious cause of inadvertant chain stretching! All the logical dynamics at play which few ever even consider.
Thanks! Very informative regarding the 3 drivers gauging the correct tension. That was new to me. Also, first cut to be larger stock. All good info for sure!
You truly are excellent; I have run a saw for 40 years had my own tree service for 25 and still I have learned more from you than anyone you are more knowledgeable than most and you truly help people including me and thanks to you I am going to have my son who owns a machine shop build me some round chain stoppers for my saws, all the aggravation I could have avoided trying to file those guides with a round file to finish a job ha ha if only I could have watched you many years ago ha ha but I am much older than you but not even 1/2 as clever unfortunately for me 😂so thank you again I appreciate your expertise
Cut wood, heated house over 30 year. Never had chain pop off. Guess I've been fortunate because I have cut very small twigs and such now and then. So I've learned something and also the 3 link rule I didn't know. Wish your video was around 30 years ago. I'm sure many new cutters will be greatly benefited. Thanks!
I've found that trimming small twigs with the top of the bar rather than the bottom helps alleviate that problem. The chain will tend to throw off stringy debris like bark shards as it goes 'round the tip of the bar.
Great video. Just to let you know I'm a contractor by trade and a mechanic of none or should I say " No leaves on my shade tree mechanic skills" I just bought a new saw and it's doing this. Now I think I have one or maybe to leaves on that tree now. Thanks 👍👍
Excellent advice. I like the idea of pulling up on the bar before tightening. I’ve not done that. Awesome watching your videos.
O MY god, Thank you. I will get 3 to 4 jumps and get frustrated. I always thought it was just a cheep saw, it is HF electric. Now it makes perfect sense. Now I will take the time too bring it to speed and readjust AND stop " wackin" the twigs. You are amazing.
Nice looking motor you have wrapped up.
Great information! I think the quality of the guide bar plays an important role as well. I have a 20” narrow kerf .325 bar on a Dolmar 5105 and have thrown the chain so much that the catcher is almost gone. The last time it happened I measured the slot of the bar with the ears of a dial calipers and found it to be .065” wide when the chain gauge is .050”! I never checked it when new but it was supposed to be .050”. I am patiently waiting to get a Sugihara bar once their North American shipment comes in. They’re made from tool steel as well as being light weight. I know a 95 y/o gentleman who told me he used a Mall chainsaw back in the day. It was gear driven and if he would hang the chain up while cutting the thing would pull the rivets out of the chain and trash it! I can understand how chains stretch today after use. 👍
any good saw shop should be able to close up the rails on a bar or one can purchase the tool for doing it yourself.
Some of those narrow kerf bars have enough flex to jump the chain out of the groove with side pressure. For example I have taken a 20 inch Troybilt and laid the bar nose on a block of wood and held the rear handle with one finger with the saw laying on it side with just the weight of the saw and measured 1/2 inch of side flex. On some of the consumer saws, and some of the early 5105 saws they only came with the inside log spike and will cause the bar to twist if you leverage against the spike while sawing causing a moon cut. I have seen the 59" stihl branded bar used on an MS880 that would flip the chain off the bar due to bar droop, if the saw was turned on its side and the engine reved.
It's really a waste of $$ for those bars. I have cut for power companies in 3 states and logged in 2,cleared private land and firewood. In the time they wear out and for the price of them I can buy 4 Oregon bars and still save money. All I use is 24" bars,shorter you have to stoop to much and longer is a waste. With a 24" you can cut anything up to 7' diameter if you know how to cut. All bars wear out,it's up to you to know that and know what you're looking for. When sharpening it's simple to notice if there is to much slop in the bar groove. All chains do too.....bike,quad,saw...etc... they all do. If your oiler isn't properly oiling then it's going to effect both quicker than normal no matter what bar you use.
@@rider660r 84" fan cuts from inside the notch may or may not be possible with a 24" bar but I would like to see a 84" tree bucked with a 24" bar, by the way I am a fan of 24" bars for most cutting but not all cutting. perhaps I even cut with you while at Asplundh or one of the logging companies east of the Mississippi.
@@iffykidmn8170 It's absolutely possible,if one knows what they're doing and not saving the log for anything. When cutting for power we never had a need to save a log as if you're taking them to a mill. We actually would cut them up so woodwolves couldn't come by and haul them off to a mill. When I was logging I've cut a few Populars and 1 Red Oak that was in the 6' neighborhood with 24" bars (It's all I ever use and own) while logging. When logging the yard bucks the logs,let them run a stinking larger bar, I wasn't going to when there's no need,you're on mountain sides that are near vertical,and you might only have a few of those size trees on a job here and there. I filled in for a friend for a week at Aspounders in PA back in the early 90's and there's no way I'd work full time for those idiots. They're as dumb an lazy as Nelson,spent a month with them in OH and had to show those morons many things even though they had 10+ yrs there. Hell all those lazy idiots were running little 18" Craftsmans or Poulans.
Amazing ! Been playing with chainsaws for over 40 years and never knew this - thank you !
I have had a chainsaw for 20+ years and I never knew this. Thanks so much (from New Zealand). I really enjoybyour videos.
My uncle had a small engine shop and from the age of 6 (I am 72 now and still using a few I have at my lake property) I was using chain saws. He thought me everything you said and most of what the others were saying. Loved the Lexan cover idea one commenter had.
Good video. This is info most homeowner saw owners don't know. Also can I just call out that the chainsaw in the video is a great example of a saw that is tuned properly. It starts easily and runs almost immediately at low idle. There should be no need to start the saw and piss rev the hell out of it to get it to idle.
At age 82 I have been using Echo CS310 and 590 chainsaws along with a Lynxx battery pole chainsaw to take care of my 2.5 acre property. for a number of years. Your video contains the most helpful advice about on various aspects of chainsaws and blades that I have seen. You have helped me greatly with this. Thanks for your good work.
Wow, so glad I found The Chickanic! Knowledge is power!❤️
I used to use a die grinder to clean up the drivers after chain popped off. Thanks Bre for awesome videos!
Yup, used a dremel to do that so I could continue the slaughter 😂 the bar was damaged, don’t remember what I did, probably cut it clear with a hacksaw blade, arborvitae with rocks in it, ugh😢
Growing up in a logging family in the Northwest, chainsaw maintenance was a family affair. My grandfather used to own a saw shop also. We always cleaned the drivers with a flat file. All chains were hand sharpened. My grandfather had a powered sharpener but it was custom built by him in the 50's and was designed for the heavy duty chains on the old Homelite saws that were the size of a small car engine these days. I still have one of his old homelites. Used it a couple years ago just to say I did. I was done after a few minutes.
@@sidserv1978 my brother still has his 650 Homelite he bought about 45 years ago. I did a video of him cutting down a Creek Fire killed fir which was over 55 inches at the butt. At the time the saw was 2/3 as old as he was, and he was 69. Sometimes you need the long sword, but it takes more to run it.
@@melissasmess2773 300 miles north of nowhere in the ominica, chain jumps the bar on a willow, file the driver's pry open the track in the bar and back in business. Add more oil and good to go!
A few tips from a retired pro: Check your drivers every time the chain comes off-they can be re-shaped with a flat file and a round file. Copy the other drivers for shape. Never put a new chain on a worn floating rim sprocket. Dimensions of the new chain are larger than the recesses of the old floating rim sprocket. You can even grenade the rim sprocket. You can put a worn chain on a new rim sprocket. Push the bar tip down onto a wood block or whatever when you tighten the bar nuts after tightening the chain. This 'sets' the bar for work.
Tip from a logger and power right of ways..... That's BS, you can use a new chain on a worn rim. Done it for decades,only split one rim due to it being so worn the drives started to touch the clutch bell and cutting dead Black Locust. Every few chains I also flipped the rim like one should do to a bar with each chain. Same saws I bought (Jred 670 Champ an 2077) bought 30+ yrs ago are still throwing chips today. If I had a chain jump and it gets burrs I just reinstall it loose and give it a few blips of the throttle. The burrs are gone and just retighten chain.
I just found your channel. I'm loving it. While I'm a long time chainsaw user, uncles, friends, and mentors. I'm a new chainsaw owner and wish I would've seen this video when I first got my chainsaw. I ruined my first blade by not knowing about having to tighten a new blade many times. Almost all the drivers were blunted and wouldn't fit back in the bar. I didn't know I could file them down to fit again. Though I would've had to do it by hand. I'm watching the leaky bar oil video because that a problem I've having with my Husqvarna. I will be back to watch many videos because I like you teaching/presentation style. Thank you very much for making videos and sharing your knowledge.
not sure how expensive chain scales are, but maybe when you put on the new one you should screw down a piece of scrap lexan or something over it... it might get scratched up eventually, but if you screw it down you can just change it.
What is a chain scale?
Any time the bar is off check the oiler hole to make sure it's clean, you're there anyway.
I’m impressed with your knowledge and ability to explain things so I can clearly understand. You may have just saved my sanity. Thanks so much for sharing your know how.
You're very welcome!
Been using chainsaws for 40 years but you stihl taught me something. Thank you.
Ahhhh, i see what you did there!
You also forgot to tell them to clean the bar guide and the clutch cover and the other side where t the oiler is sitting and clean the holes on the back of the of the bar guide that's how the bar chain gets lubrication and if you half to debur the drive links use a drimel it works alot better.
I just got a new chain yesterday. Although I've never had one pop off yet, it's always good to learn ways to prevent it. Thank you.
I don’t have a chainsaw right now but these tips are invaluable, thanks for sharing your expertise, 👍👍
Why are you my favorite small engine repair channel?? Because you have no: profanity, rediculous haircut/color, obnoxious irrelevant ink all over your body, childlike catch phrases, etc. What you offer instead is: a deep understanding of how things work, great video angles with perfect lighting, and the best thing is your calm, cool demeanor which oozes confidence and trustworthiness. Dont change a thing and thanks for your time and endless honesty!!!😊😊😊😊
That is so kind of you to let me know! Thanks so much!
Comments you did very nice I literally agree with you especially about disgusting tatoos
😢😢b @@Chickanic
She’s the epitome of professional, the great majority of people who watch these channels are regular Americans with conventional values, and she knows her audience. Another channel with a similar level of value is Project Farm. Both 5 star content creators!
So you're sexualizing her and watching because you find get attractive vs to learn about saws. Cool
This was really helpful! It gave me a much better understanding of the dynamics involved, and it was fascinating to see a new chain cut. I run a Logosol chainsaw mill, so I go through lots and lots of chains. I run them very tight so I have few problems with the chain popping off. Occasionally at the end of a cant if I'm not careful the chain can get pinched and pop off. That's why I run it so tight. My brother does the logging, and he runs his chains very loose. They pop off all the time for him, but he insists that he is saving on wear on the bar and chain. After watching your video I'm wondering if there might be other considerations than wear for tightening up that chain a little.
I have my own saw and I use saws provided and maintained by others. the others tend to run their chains loose. their standard policy is to have two saws handy so they can keep working when the first one throws the chain. they discard chains when the drivers are so beat up, they will no longer run in the bar. I discard chains when the teeth are completely worn away. I'm afraid I can't tell you what my bar replacement policy is. I've only had the saw for about 15 years, so the bar is still good. of course, I use premium bar oil, too.
@kenbrown2808 I also always take at least two saws. If the chain has issues it is just annoying if a saw fails when the tree is half cut and resting on the holding wood it can be life threatening.
@@fibreguy1971 I'm guessing you also use your saw for more than a few minutes in a day. the "normal" use of the saws is 5 cuts. not 5 trees, 5 CUTS.
Thank you very much, I was having trouble with my Echo 355T topsaw with 14" bar, my original chain finally had to be retired....cutters were too short, so I bought a 3 pack of Oregon chisel from my local shop. I never knew about the "Rev " trick. My chain threw twice and boogered the drivers....had to lightly file the burrs off.
Soo helpful that is the first time i understood after many many years why my chains are jumping of exactly as you described. many thanks.
Good video just to see how you installed the chain. Question: do you have a video that gives the pros and cons of making your own chains? I have a Stihl with a 20 inch bar, and in the past year the boxed premade chains have gone up almost $10 each in price. And how often do you recommend sharpening (before tossing)?
how often or how deeply? I touch up my chain every tank of gas, and I generally rotate a chain out when the teeth are about to turn into triangles instead of trapezoids. - I keep the old chain as a throwaway in case I have to cut something I know will wreck it, like a power pole.
We buy Oregon bulk chain and the cutters have a line on them to let you know when you've had your money's worth !
It's cheaper making your own. That's not including the tools she used. You can make chain with just a flat file,punch and a hammer.....about 30 yrs ago I learned how to do it and still do it this way today. Sharpen when it's dull... There is no magic number of tanks of fuel you used,how long it's been running,or how many trees you've cut. Sharpen it when it's dull. If you run your finger down the chain and it's not wanting to grab then it's getting or is dull.
A single chain will cut a ton of wood before it needs to be replaced. Many chains have an angled mark on the cutter you can use as a guide and it also indicates the end life of the chain. I would recommend sharpening every couple of tanks. It usually only takes a few strokes with a file to touch them up rather than waiting until the chain is very dull. It really boils down to the type of wood and how dry it is as to how often the chain should be sharpened. I believe a chain will last longer with more frequent touch ups rather than using it until it won’t cut any more.
Don’t worry about the price because Bidenomics is getting ready to cut your current chain prices in half. If you can keep the chain sharp then I’d use it till I couldn’t or the dentures are breaking off of it.
Bre, I've been subscribed to your for a long time now but I don't remember you ever addressing fuel line sizes and type differences. Some are rubber, some vinyl or whatever. When to use which and the different sizes. I live an hour from town and it would be smart to keep some on hand of what I actually need. I have mostly Stihl and John Deere equipment and it seems whatever I've bought extra of is never right. Could you possibly do a segment on fuel lines or tell me where to get the information.
The newer "vinyl" type is for the new garbage fuel they rip you off on at the gas pump. Ethanol eats rubber and doesn't mix well with 2 stroke mix an is a big no no in saws,weedeaters,etc.
I switched to premium gas which doesn't have ethanol and have solved most of my carb problems, but what I was asking about is how many different size fuel lines are there? Which sizes are on Stihl and on John Deere in my case. I am hoping to work toward having on hand those sizes that I use. If ethanol is no problem then is rubber a better option, rubber seemed to last longer than vinyl does.
Great thanks again. Glad to see you are making progress on the new shop.
I've been a pro bike mechanic for years and your chain breaker and pin-inserter crack me up! So huge! Ours are SO tiny in comparison! But, then again, the consequences are a WEE bit lower if a chain breaks under load 😄
"You're destroying your chain" No, most of us are not.
But we still clicked.
Ain't gonna get a sammich here 😅
You saved a lot of headache about this subject! Thank you very much 😊
I'm always amazed at how many people there are that don't know how to properly tighten a chain and run them loose. And then theres those who have no clue that they need bar oil. Mind boggling. Great info.
it's about the company you keep. most don't know because they are learning alone, not under the guidance of someone who uses these tools. i'm a first-time homebuyer who has gotten my tools second-hand with no manuals - it's just me and youtube.
simple, accurate, and concise, as usual to be found here, this is my go-to small engine clinic keep doing the good job because consistency builds confidence in the user base, and confidence turns into allegiance for something that works every time. Lookin' good!!!
I watched you replace a carb on a Husqvarna blower that wouldn't run without the choke on. I ordered the parts you suggested and it took 30 minutes to have it run like new. THANKS Mark
After scrolling through countless videos I find the one that mirrored my situation. Subscribe and thank you. It was a new Husq took it out started it, the chain was smoking due to the chain being tight. I loosened it and the bar and chain came off. Your vid taught me what I didn’t due was go back and try it again until it was right Thank you
BAR & chain came off? Yikes
I’m a new saw owner. So, this is super helpful!!
I had my comment typed and ready to hit the arrow button to ask if it was ok to Smooth down the sling rakers but waited until the end to make sure you didn’t cover it. Since you covered it I say thanks for a very helpful video!!
Nice shop update! Love to see the "real working shop" look. Thanks for the belt sander on the banged up drivers tip! Got a small pile of chains to process with the belt sander now! LOL 🙂
you never end to amaze me keep the good work up
As always you nailed it, and thanks to you I do all my own services.
Thank you for an informative video. Fortunately, I've never had a chain jump except when the sprocket cover nuts came loose on an ECHO 4910. One nut got lost. From then on, I replaced them with captured nuts. I also strongly recommend using quality chains only. 2 years in the forest, I've never had a problem with Stihl Yellow chains. And yes. Have spares. $20 - $30 is well worth the investment to stay at work rather than getting shut down.
You hand out ALOT of great information,thankyou and keep up the good work
Another great video. I learned many new things, like the way you adjust chain tension.