How to Repair Damaged Clear Coat - Auto Body Repair Hacks Revealed
In this video I am going to not only show you how to repair peeling, chipped or worn out clear coat. I am going to show you how to do a spot repair and blend the new clear coat into the old clear coat. Some might call this a Hack but they will be disgruntled body shop workers :0 joking aside, this is not a long lasting repair and your results will vary based on how bad the clear coat damage is on your car and how much discoloration has resulted on your base coat.
Here are links to products which were used in this video:
Links to Products on Amazon:
My Car Wash Soap: amzn.to/2dRT071
Microfiber Towel: amzn.to/2diBBAh
Gray Scotch Brite Pad: amzn.to/2eCW7kx
1" Masking Tape: amzn.to/2e2izBl
Blue Shop Towels: amzn.to/2ehKaxD
2K Clear Coat: amzn.to/2e2ki9N
Painters Respirator: amzn.to/2ddSdhH
1500 Grit Sand Paper: amzn.to/2dDMbmn
7" Polisher: amzn.to/2dV4Xen
Wool Pad: amzn.to/2dV6zoA
Medium Grit Rubbing Compound: amzn.to/2dV7Yvq
Links to Products on Ebay:
2K Clear Coat: goo.gl/KU1fka
My Car Wash Soap: goo.gl/QUmqpQ
Gray Scotch Brite Pad: goo.gl/XSPnsV
1" Masking Tape: goo.gl/kVVkYy
Painters Respirator: goo.gl/ov7sXP
1500 Grit Sand Paper: goo.gl/1p3Q2r
7" Polisher: goo.gl/ybf6oR
Wool Pad: goo.gl/ERML5r
Medium Grit Rubbing Compound: goo.gl/rXz4r4
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Ratchets and Wrenches, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Ratchets and Wrenches assumes no liability for any property or personal damage that may arise from doing a repair on your vehicle after watching any of my repair video's. Due to factors beyond the control of Ratchets and Wrenches, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Again Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Ratchets and Wrenches.
Too Many negative comments. He is showing how to do a quick & cheerful clear coat repair. He selects one portion of the car just to show the steps. Most people will not contemplate respraying an old vehicle due to the high cost. This is a second best approach & it's shown clearly - Thanks
This is the best video i found on this. I said i know there has to be a video where someone knows wtf they are doing and this guy is it!
Peter Owens i
Peter Owens: Don't bother to explain. Most of these people are either women or people who have no idea what it takes to repair a scratch on a car. This is a helpful video but not the best.
LOL @beautybrainsz: Too bad my face did not get hard when I saw your face. LOL
@Convicted Melon maaco and good job do not belong in the same sentence
This is an excellent DIY video for older cars but here are a few important tips from 40 years as a car painter. Related to this car only: 1. Scotch pad the entire windshield post, down to the hood and clear the entire part. 2. If you need to blend, pick smallest area and then sand with progressive paper sizes. Move from 1000 to 2000 to 3000 paper as you move away from the imaginary blend line. (Note: We normally buff the good area of the panel with fine compound (white) then wet sand into that area with progressive grits of wet paper.) 3. The fold back paper idea is OK but you need to have a longer fold over area. The tape needs to be at least 8 to 10 inches from the fold and do not press down hard on that tape. (Note: Be sure not to press down on the fold. It needs to be up and puffy not tight to the car’s surface, so that some of the clear can sneak underneath.) 4. When you have finish each coat, pull back a “little” on the folded paper. Open a few more inches of surface and then do the second medium wet coat. And again on the third coat, so that a little more area is exposed. (Note: On the final coat, the tape should be at least 4 inches away from the fold so that a hard line is not created. 5. Immediately after the third coat, pull off the paper and tape in the blend are and spray a fourth coat over entire “main repair area” and then pull down and blend spray on to the 3000 area. (Note: Must be wet and fast, plus you must do immediately after the third coat.) 6. The blend area may not look wet but let it dry for a week, lightly wet sand with some 3000 (again) and then buff with white (fine grit) compound. Note: When spraying with a gun or even a can, you don’t want to break the arm stroke in the middle of a panel like was done in the video. Move your arm across the entire panel from one end to the other, with no stopping in the middle. Please note that the video was right on for a quick detailing of a car with milking clear coats. If it is badly pealing you will have some issues, so use this as a guide and it will help. Good luck with your project, Gary
I can still hear my instructor from 1991..."Don't stop or start in the middle!"
All good points 👍🏼 The only bit I don't do myself is the blended end mask. Stay cans and guns allow you to control the flow pretty easily. Personally I just mask the surrounding panels/glass and overshoot the blend point. I do do what you describe though... except in reverse. The first coat goes full length, 2nd a little less and 3rd less again. Blending a join line with wet sanding isn't something I've ever done apart from custom stencil jobs that need a fade.
Great advice!
Wow that's great advice Gary! It all makes a lot of sense
Nice tips! What would happen if you just carefully peeled the whole car of the old clear coat, polished the base coat underneath and put on a new layer of clearcoat? Is it possible to polish base coat and get it in good condition once more if it's oxidized?
I love your videos! I've been a mechanic for the past 24 years. Your sense of humor is hilarious! You make your videos entertaining & very informative in a concise way. You have loads of charm & don't repel me like so many of the people who are desperately trying to be "cool" or "badass". I find them hard to stomach. You're genuine & the real deal.
People always say it can't be done, but honestly a pretty good job like this completely transforms the look of an old beater. Great vid!!
I am a professional. But for the average guy fixing his own car up on a cheap budget, this is great. Yes no body shop would warranty that repair but he's just trying to help out the do it your-self-er. Nice job on the cheap! ( for the non professional).
Joe DeLong how long do you think the new clear coat on that car will last?
Allan Rimban if done like this I'd say just as or longer then the original clear coat
Clutch NZ thank you Clutch, I appreciate it.
Do-it-yourselfer... do it you-self-er? 🤔🤔🤔
Mlm
I love this guy. His dry, cheesy humor makes what would be a boring video into a fun informative one.
Agreed.
If you do this in the garage make sure you shut off water heater. The fumes could ignite. The 2k clear is very flammable.
Not if it's an electric water heater.
Thanks
Right!! And make sure you cover the car with old sheets and wet the floor! Keeps overspray off your car...and keeps floor dust kicked up while walking around tacked to the floor!!! Well said!
@irk hayner lmmfao
my brother died from his hot water back drafting when working on auto parts in his garage, dudes take it serious
Great video. Ive watched dozens of these clear coat fix videos and this is the 1st that I feel I can follow and end up with similar results. I appreciate your simplicity, honesty and the speed of the video ( how fast you got your work explained and demonstrated) many thanks and continued success .
Did you try it? I'm curious how long this kind of repair would last!
I have nothing to clear coat and I ended up watching the whole video because it was so well done!
lol
Haaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
Same here!
Riyad Kalla that's hilarious I have nothing to clear coat either but he did the video so well he kept my attention
I agree !!
The clear he is using is just a good and can be wet sanded and polished just like regular auto body paint shops. I would recommend everyone covering the rest of the car with a sheet or blanket, because the overspray will be hard to get off.
jerry bushman just wipe it with thinner
but it's a good idea to cover it up with over spray plastic and paper
guard509 Wiping the car with thinner damages the clear
I've heard that the nanoskin pads are good for removing overspray - although for sure masking things off is easier than trying to fix it after the fact.
You should shake the can more then 2 minutes at least until you don't hear a rattle anymore
I wonder how many people got mad because they couldn't find the link for the elbow grease.
😂😂
These days probably a lot of people.
hahahah
xD
He is very serious with humor 😈
One of the most informative things I’ve witnessed in my lifetime. Great narration, explanations, and insight. Fantastic! Thank You Plenty!!
Finally someone did a REAL clear coat repair.
Ben Smith ya. The improper way of fixing it.
And what is the proper way of fixing it? A repaint?
Mpokerdonk sand it down. Prime, block then paint. You can clearly see that you can still see the damage under the clear. This is no where near the proper way of doing the repair.
Most videos are crap and show how to re clearcoat the whole part.
Right. In the real world, where we have full time jobs and kids and many other things to spend our precious time on, you're suggesting something that bumps hard up against the decision to spend dozens of free time hours OR pay a body shop to do it for you. Here's a real world scenario: A high school kid has a car with these very same problems. The car looks pretty awful, but fixable as per this vid, the kid surely can't afford the $1,500 it has been estimated to cost to do a full-on warranted repair, but the kid (and Mom & Dad) really wants to see some kind of improvement in the car's appearance. No, this isn't the kid's last car or a forever car, it's a first car that is going to get some rough handling. In this case, it is way easy to say "yes" to a couple of weekends worth of work to get a 95% improvement in the cars look. As a parent, I see a lot of good learning and pride of work in this. RnW, thanks for the vid!
May I suggest for the transition area, do a diagonal finish rather than a straight line, I do this, it tricks the eye of the viewer from noticing a blunt line,. A line like this / or more slanted depending on your area, just saying. Like this video very much, good detailed instruction!
Good point. Also useful for crown moulding when joining to pieces. Diagonal cuts look better then straight ones.
@@Kgio-2112 That's debatable, and will always depend on the quality of the cut/joinery anyway..problem with an angle cut is that there is a longer joint line=more chance to see imperfections..
You wanna come in like an airplane landing and taking off again if you want a gradual reduction in thickness of clear coat to blend the edge too. Try with spray paint on paper first.
For such a small area i would suggest reapplying CC to the entire thing. Avoid the need for transition.
Murphy James True. But he wanted to show how to do a transition.
Thanks man you educated me on how to do it myself and was very honest that it isn't perfect. If I want perfect I'll have the whole thing painted. Great video I subscribed to learn more, keep it up!
So many useful and helpful tips I wouldnt have never considered. This man really knows his stuff. I was ready to start painting and wishing for the best. Now I feel more confident.
Excuse me, I can't find the link for the elbow grease.
Betatester. I've got a '91 Le Baron convertible that I just replaced the Johnson rod on. Used a whole case of Elbow Grease on it!
Or if you have a to tone color car you can use a can of striped paint.
That delivery was so dry. Typical Slavic sense of humor xD
gksk8monk That is why I like. straight to the point saving pleasantries for later😉
You can find elbow grease at your local auto parts store. It's in aisle elevendy. Right next to the blinker fliud and muffler bearing grease. If you want synthetic elbow grease, the store can special order it for you.
I love how you teach. I'm a journeyman mechanic with 35 years experience an you do an awesome job teaching. I'm not a body guy, but I have a 68 GTO with terminal clear rot and I can fix it without referencing your video again. Thank you. I send you some pictures if it comes out good.
Congratulations! I'd like to have a nice place to make this job in my car. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Fantastic video bro! Very concise and to the point. Your delivery was spot-on and easy to understand. I know there's a lot of people out there that appreciated the fact that you did not try to hide anything and make this out to be some sort of cure-all! The side by side comparison you cannot argue with! Thank you very much!
I really thank you for your advice. I watch others videos and used yours as prime method. The only thing I added was on the orange peak clear coat like black car. I used 600 grit wet sand paper and 1000 grit wet sand paper to smooth flaking clear coat. I was careful not to remove paint, just clear coat flakes. It turned out awesome! Thank You!
Super nice instructional video. Really well-presented. Thank you.
Nice little video & you definitely have the patience of a great teacher. The problem for me, 15 years experience with body repairs indoor/outdoor/2k/1k paints is the masking technique you used to blend out the new clear into the old. No matter what you do, wet sand, compound, polish etc you will never remove the line left by the masking technique you used. Everywhere else is great. Yes were talking about clunker cars that dont have real $$value & a cheap fix is the order of the day but what i will highlight wont cost any more time or $$ than you used here. If you’ve not used the cave technique it is very simple. At the point that you wish to end the new clear (where you put your masking tape) you create a cave about 2 inches high with your masking paper & tape with the entrance to the cave facing towards the start of the job. The end of the cave can be 3-4 inches long tapering down to the panel. So an open cave one side & closed at the end. It’s important that you have wet sanded 2000 grit all the way along the panel that the cave is on & an inch or so after as this is the compounding polishing area when all done. Now as you spray from the start of the run towards the cave & end of the run you ‘feather’ the clear (almost like a flick of the can) into the cave entrance (haha keep it clean guys!) but very lightly. Once you’ve completed 2-3 coats using this technique remove the paper & tape that made up the cave immediately without making contact with the new paint area. You will see then that the end of the clear coat run (at the point where you got the line) has very gently feathered & graduated away... but thats definitely NOT where you leave it. Next, & with the clear coat still wet you immediately take a can of lacquer thinners spray & very lightly ‘toot’ the area where the feathered clear coat is, being very very careful not to spray a heavy (toot like a hair stylist might do to perfect that hair do at the end with hair spray) & not onto any old clear that has not been 2000 grit sanded. And that my friends is the secret. The feathered area will melt both the new & old (2000 grit sanded) clear coat together into a seamless no line perfect blend. Now leave that for at least 3 days but a week is ideal. When you go back thats when you 1500 then 2000 grit the whole area sprayed & then compound polish as you did to fine blend the job. Please note: there is a great deal more that actual goes into body repair & paint repair (Pro’s keep it in you pants) but in the spirit of what this video is about (getting a good & cheap result when they all said f/off) having a go yourself is part of the fun. Well done!
I’m late but would I have to worry about the line if I did a full quarter panel or full hood at once?
Your video is perfect for my application. My car is 10 years old and I had a new bumper put on 8 years ago. The bumper clearcoat started to peel in one spot, from the mudflap. Body shops want to redo the bumper for $1000. I get that they have to repair as new, but that is just a waste of money in my case. Thanks for your video!!
Pretty good video man for real. I have a spot on my vehicle I need to repair and this video showed me exactly what I needed to know. Ty for your time in creating the video
np, glad you liked it. cheers
Ratchets And Wrenches
jimmy Scudder i
This is among the best diy vid I've seen in awhile. I also appreciate your honesty on not expecting perfection. New sub. Thks!
Great, thanks. I learned a couple of things, which are not intuitive, like "run the (polisher) at a low to medium speed", and "little to no pressure", and "only buff away from new paint/clear coat". At first, I thought the instructions were too specific - I'm impatient - but, I started breathing, and relaxed. Very good!
This is really great. I have an old car covered in sun spots and had no idea that I could fix it myself, and I don’t want to spend the hundreds on getting the whole car repainted. I’m going to do this !!!
Not sure why the dislikes. This helped me cover some damaged clear coat spots on an old car. Thank you.
right! i would do this also to cover faded parts before selling a car, it will increase the value a little and make a more attractive option.
It is required that all posts have dislikes to keep things even. lol
@@Meanazhell CORRECT!
Very helpful. The clearcoat is entirely gone on the roof of our backup car- a 2009 Carolla. I may tackle this soon. I dont think I should need to blend since it is literally the entire roof.
So detailed. Love it. The taping and folding the blue towel to avoid the “tape line” is important...
I enjoy this guy's presentation (Ratchets And Wrenches) in his vids. No fuss, clear unambiguous directions with reasons, enough humour to lift and keep my interest, and no wasting time with boring superfluous waffle. Thank you. Cheers, Peter
Great video and explanations. Two suggestions to newbees. 1. The airtemp has a HUGE affect on your "wait time" to put your second and 3rd coats of clear (or paint) on. For colder temps wait longer and for hot temps wait less. 2. He used a "medium" grit McGuires rubbing compound at the end which was fine to start, but you could also graduate to a "fine" grit after that to make it all the more smoother and shinier transition.
I have watched many of your videos. You do a good job. Thanks for your time and effort. John S.
I took down notes to help me remember. Thank you very much. Your tips can be used with any spray painting project - especially on moving the can first! I'm making sure that first crap out of the can is on the masking paper with wooden and metal door repair projects, etc.
THANK YOU. I'm doing this on my G35. Your instructions are great
Great video! This actually helps non-refinishing-people to maybe understand the refinishers job. Blending clear on black coat to make it invisible is a difficult in its own level! I did a few clear repairs, and i ended up clear coating the whole sections right from the start! Saved some time and got better result! Time is money, right!? Would love to see this line of work on a silver coated car! Just thinking, guess the damage on the basecoat could be more visible. Keep doing what u do 👍💯🔥
Thanks you just saved me from getting a paint job knowing all I have to do is sand and spray some 2k max and it will look good as new Is awesome thanks bro
Thanks dude. You taught me how to spray paint and do the transition. You loaded this short video with all kinds of pertintent info. Wow. As a repair job this is 100% improvement.
This is so helpful, I think I can actually follow this. I have a spot on my car and it's only small, don't really want to pay a lot of money to get it done professionally especially since it's in an inconspicuous spot as well. 😁
This was the only video that actually helped me fix my van's worn roof paint. 😎
Another awesome video. Your videos are always high quality and very informative . Thank you!!!!
Are you kidding !?! This was amazeballz. THANK YOU!!! Restoring a 2000 Golf Mk IV with peeling clear coat. Was lost.. then found this. thank You!!
Nice video. I owned a body shop for many years. Most DIYers aren't going to do a complete paint job and this is perfect for them.
I like the way you explain how to do things, and love the "Polite decline" visual. subscribed.
Did it just like you said. Used the links....and it came out great on my 1999 red F-150. Awesome!!! Referenced you and your video in Amazon review of the aerosol.
Is it still good? I have a 2003 F-150 I'm about to do this on
If it's not just do it again 😊
This video was extremely interesting and helpful. The information was clearly presented and I followed all of your points. Thank you for sharing this information with all of us.
What expert could argue with an improvement this good? The results are the proof; You do great work!
Great job. Thanks for sharing, and hell yeah I would like to see you work on the Camry. Thanks again.
I just love the small humor you input in your videos. Definitely makes for a better video!
This is hands down one of the BEST videos I've seen from this dude!!! Love the videos bro! I wish higher heights for you my friend. Criticism can be good but I'm gonna be a cocky, sob and say screw the negative feedback altogether! This video will help an unimaginable number of car owners!!!!!! 🤛🏽🤛🏽🤛🏽 ......This video was done nearly 3 years and I'm just seeing it 😳🤯.....
Excellent video. I own one of the Honda cars recalled because of clear coat failure. Only problem, mine didn’t show any problem, until the recall had expired, now it looks really bad. Thanks for the lesson.
6:15 Holy crap I love this tip. 30 years and never saw this never thought of it never heard of it. cant wait to try it.
Excellent info! You are a talented artist. Thank you!
I must've watched this video at least 10 times...lol. Ratchets And Wrenches actually gave me the info I needed (and the hope/confidence) to fix the clear coat on my wife's car, without having to pay a small fortune. Love the video, and the guy's 'dry' humour...lol. Very well done. Keep it up!
Thank you for these tips. You were right. Napa sucks. I put some on and no shine. So I bought the 2K you said to use and followed your directions. Came out smooth as glass and just as shinny. Very happy with the result on my car.
thank you very much for this fantastic tutorial video. excellent explanation on how to complete this job with confidence.
conquryourfear p
Awesome video, i liked it right when the elbow grease joke was sent lmao. Great work.
This is an excellent video. Really clear and concise information. We don't get much sun damage in Scotland but paintwork takes a pasting in winter from the grit and salt they put down. Thanks man.
Great job that is a huge improvement And I'm glad you stressed the importance of the respirator and curing time needed before sanding or waxing.
Yep, screw the negative comments. Good video, handy information and I'm gonna fix my Yukon myself.
And you don't EVER start or stop in the middle of a panel.
This was a very useful and well done video. I truly appreciate your honesty in saying that it's only a temporary fix too. However, in the area where you did the blending, you would have had a better result by using a piece of copy paper or something harder than the shop bag. That way, when you fold it back away from the repaired area, there is more of a curve and the clear coat goes down with more gradient. You will hardly need to buff it at all.
Hi.. First, I’d like to thank you for your videos.. I think you are one of the best repair coach I have seen on KZhead.. You truly take the time to show and explain step by step everything you do to make sure we understand. You really do have a talent to teach.. Congratz.. Now I have a question. Im not sure you’ll be able to help, but I need to take a chance and ask! I have a Automatic 2005 Ford Focus Station Wagon! I have a few things to work on to get it really for this winter.. But first I have a problem with my passenger side front and rear door.. The Front Passenger side cannot open from the outside (but the handle isn’t unlachted because we do feel the normal tension when you try to open it, but it just doesn’t get the door latch open And in the rear, its the same but reversed.. Yo ucan open it from the outside by not inside.. I’m asking you becaue, I tried, I removed the inside panel, I didn’t see anything loose or what, but as you must know, I’m not very good with doors, I admit it.. But I cant afford to spend 3 to 400$ at the mechanics when I could do it myself if I could get the right info.. I’d really appreciate your help if you can.. Thanks for your time, and you can contact me here or by email at stdange73@gmail.com my name is Stephan, and I have no cell so I cant text or use sites built for cell phone... Thanks again and hope to hear from you soon Thanks and sorry for the long message!
Son of a bitch that was like an instant change , I'm about to do this on my truck
Hector B right? me too, my roof on my 18yr old dodge is really faded. they had bad clear coat issues.
I have a 1998 Dodge Dakota with some splotches on the roof where the clear-coat has come off. I think I'll try this. Even if it doesn't look great, it will still be much less of an eye-soar than it is now.
Jess Stuart haha, I have a 99 Dakota.
Hey guys.... I have a RAM SRT10 and the roof's clearcoat has faded off, mostly in the back. How did this work out for you?
Having used that brand of paint to spot repair my hood, take so good advice and cover the WHOLE car prior to painting. You can get a 10' x 20' poly drop cloth at Lowes Depot for $4.
Thanks for video. Pretty simple and straightforward. I did make a mistake by not taping it down as much which made my newspaper stick to my paint. Underestimated the damn wind
Sure makes me appreciate why I got the bid for clear coat repair on my roof. Not so high after watching the work I thought I'd do myself! Thank you!
everything is great, i woul paint the whole piece myself to avoid that polishing thing. there was only a small part left.
D'Juan Stanziola you must have missed him saying “I’m doing this to show you how to blend. Normally I’d do the whole panel” (words to that effect)
@K Man Do you need to sand and polish the clear coat if the color is a matte black?
Where can I find this "elbow grease" you speak of. I looked in the description and could find a link...:-)
Thanks very much for The info. I wonder how long the new clearcoat will last? Which is the best clearcoat in a can?
Very timely. I have an older Trailblazer with this exact condition (partially horizontal surfaces on starboard side damaged by sun, I think). Body shops will only do the entire car, but not worth it. I'll try this. Great video.
Feathering out that blistered clear coat with a piece of 2000 grit 3M would have looked even better in the final product...so long as you don't burn through the base coat under the dead clear coat during sanding. Good work tho man.
So you would suggest using 2k grit sand paper instead of the scotch brite pad?
i'm missing that link to elbow grease ;) must be next to the blinker fluid :)
I ordered the scotch brite pads from Amazon and R&W commented in the reviews finding the elbow grease .
Here's a link for elbow grease :-) www.amazon.com/Elbow-Grease-Original-Cream-Ounce/dp/B0015QQK2K
This is exactly what I've been looking for for years! Thank you
WOW!!! I thought you had to paint 🎨 the areas as well. Several steps and additional tools and products needed. Based on Costs vs Body shop.
Thank you, I really enjoyed seeing how this was done
Yeah I want to see the toyota camry one as well. Ps your sarcasm is on point
Poke Champ a
still looking for the elbow grease link
Thank you. Good information for my clear coat project. I have a motorcycle tank painted and clear coated but my stickers and emblems didn't arrive for weeks. Too long for the typical "add new coat within 24hr" rule. This summer when it gets warmer, I will scuff up the surface and lay down a new coat to keep the decals from pealing off. Good advice on can paint with hardener to be added as a step.
Excellent job on the video. I have a 30 year old (1989) BMW 535i where the roof damage is in the same spot with the clear coat damage. The only problem is the damaged area does not have a seem to mask off, so a lot of blending will be needed as the whole length of the roof will have to be blended should I attempt this repair. Again very well done video. Thanks.
Impressively thorough video and instructions .Thanks.
Hey man great video, great instructions but i have a question. So I'm a detailer and bought a car with a half assed paint job, the paint has orange peel and tons of swirls and scratches, normally I can do a paint correction and it wouldnt be a problem but my concern in that there's clear coat failure on the top of the drivers door. My question is could I sand it off then "correct the paint" with Coumpound and polish, and ceramic coat it as if there was no peel at all? The paint is real thin in not sure there's a primer because the front bumper has tons of chips including a large spot on the center of the bumper where it shows the old paint because it all just shipped off. What are your thoughts I know this is a long shot for a reply but I figured it wouldnt hurt to ask anyway. Thank you in advance.
Jared Miramontes I think you need to rough up the whole surface before you clear coat it. If you sand through the paint i think you will need to refinish the colour coat in those spots as well. I have a car that’s losing it’s clear coat on the hood. The car is 13:years old, but it is a low mileage vehicle. I drive it mainly in the summer. The hood is of course stone chipped also. The local body shop wants to strip the hood and refinish it. I’m exploring cheaper methods.
All you videos are great and I learn something every time I find your paint and clearcoat videos. Thank you and you are great for being patient and taking the time to explain how you fix car paint and itemize the tools and supplies. Fantastic - Thanks again....
Thank you for this video. My '93 black Tbird SC has that exact clear damage. I can get by doing this until I can afford to have it painted professionally
yeah great video. very informative without droning on n on like some
When spraying paint Do Not EVER stop or start in the middle of a panel.
paulseyes yep bad mistake he made there.
Thanks
Yes, I was surprised to see him do that. Made no sense. And he does some extra swipes after saying he is doing a certain number of thin/medium coats etc.
I cringed when I saw that.
He was moving the can
At the blended end... I was always taught to overshoot with no masking. No mask line to deal with so much easier buff blending job. 👍🏼
Thanks for putting in the effort to do this video for us. I've never tried but I've always wondered what it would look like if you just sanded back the peeling clear and just sprayed it with new clear. From the looks of it, providing that the clear is in its early stages of failure and the base coat hasn't been too compromised/damaged by the sun an weather, this is definitely a great low budget fix - especially for cheap old beater cars. Also it's a great way to practise spraying clear, blending, compounding and polishing for very little cost. It also appears that a quick and easy way to check what the outcome will be before you start is to wet the panel. If there's a massive coloration difference between the damaged wet areas and any good clear coat then it's probably better to redo the panel from scratch - sand, prime, base, clear.
3:35 "you'll need some elbow grease as well, link in the description below" 😂😂
what does he mean by elbow grease??
@@hbkkajayy9338 - it’s a figure of speech for hard physical work.
You could have blended the transition better by doing it at the same time of the original clearing. As you spray the clear progressively paint a little further down each time feathering the end of the stroke. If you have to unmask and move down the "A" pillar further do it. When done unmask edges right away to help edges melt in. Another thing on blending buy some rattle can blender and spray the transition areas, for the novice painters it just helps meld the two areas together. Now what you did was a huge improvement but doing these extra steps only required buying one more product the blender.
Nice tips! Never heard of a rattle can blender.. can you provide a link or a name? thanks!
I think rattle can is simply a spray can with the "rattle" when you shake it. Compared to spray gun.
I love your demonstration on what body shops say when you ask them to do this for you! It couldn't be more true! Lol!
Thanks, nice instructional video. My 96 Cabrio can only look better with a coat of clear coat. Never knew about the 2K clear coat. I am glad to see you wearing the respirator.
It's a good video but i think you should have done the whole length of the piece instead of stopping close to the middle. It's a good realy good way to blend.....clear coat really well done. You are a Master painter sir.
He said he was stopping where he did to show how to blend into the old clear coat.
I refuse to buy elbow grease from your site. Man its expensive!
Great video. I have a 1987 Trans Am GTA with some spots identical to this and I have been trying to figure out how to deal with them without an entire paint job. Thanks!!!
Man I can not wait to try this out!! Very good at giving direction! Also very good at providing a Parts List! Thanks Dude!
I have recently pealing clear coat on the hood, front roof and upper door panel (like in this example) base coat is still in great condition. Question: you think I would on be able to wet sand with 1500 paper to remove the pealing coat and blend with the old and then spray new clear coat?
Did you do it? I have same problem
神God I ordered base coat just to be sure, I’ll update once I do it 👍🏼
@@azdannyboi I'm scared I will sand off the base red paint off of my f-150 on accident😬
Any updates?
The factory clear coat starts to fail after ~10 yrs where I live in the CA Central Valley. You might get 20 years if you strive to park in garages and under trees. Looks terrible on cars w/ dark paint. It is starting to fail, but barely noticeable on my wife's silver 2002 T&C. My black 1985 M-B looked bad on all the horizontal surfaces, but people say it has a solid color coat underneath, so isn't the normal basecoat-clearcoat paint. I figured that once the clear-coat is gone, I might have useable paint underneath. Indeed, I found I could scrape off the failed clearcoat w/ a fingernail. I let it continue degrading a few years, then scraped off w a metal putty knife and 600 grit wet sandpaper. Still working at it, but looks much better. Hardest is blending the transition on the corners where it changes to still-solid clearcoat on the sides. I sanded the sunroof to 2000 grit and almost mirror-smooth now. Eventually, I'll finish w/ polishing and rubbing compound. When I paint my classic 1960's cars, I'll use solid paint that can be easily repaired. Manufacturers use clear-coat for a shiny showroom look and don't care about 10 yrs later. Indeed, better for them if your car starts looking bad since that returns people to the showroom for another initially-shiny vehicle. They also change body styles from round to square to round again to make you look out of fashion after 15 years. Amazing how they get sheeple to follow their silly ads, like most are now embarrassed to drive a minivan (most practical vehicle ever), so now want a "cross-over" which has become a minivan in an uglier style.
Sounds like a long long job... by the time you finally finish it, the first lot of clear coat you put on will start lifting lol I have a friend who took so long to paint his house section by section (just over 3 years), by the time he got to the end point he noticed the paint had started lifting on the first section where he started. He was so upset. Was hilarious for us though 😂
I had no idea that kind of spray paint existed. I think a bit more time in the prep and it would look really good. Also, I agree with him, the blend looks much better in the dark. :)
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this awesome video. It's been extremely helpful!