Why Doesn't Everyone Make These 5 Table Saw Upgrades?
These tips and tricks will show you how to get cleaner and safer cuts on your table saw.
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Tools in this Video:
Diablo Blades - amzn.to/3PKHWZI
CMT Chrome Blade - amzn.to/3tt8kzC
Ridge Carbide Blade - lddy.no/1i2st
Forrest Blade - amzn.to/3Q5Vj81
Freud Dado Blade - amzn.to/3LQz2Zj
Incra V27 Miter Gauge - amzn.to/3F8ik48
Harvey Compass Miter Gauge
Safer Cross Cut Sled Plans - www.731woodworks.com/store/sa...
Matchfit Clamps and Bit - amzn.to/3tiECNH
Thin Rip Jig - amzn.to/3rICnCZ
JessEm Stock Guides - amzn.to/3ROGbgw
MagSwitch Magnets - amzn.to/3RJU53H
MicroJig Gripper - amzn.to/3RQEIXk
MicroJig Gripper2 Go - amzn.to/3RP67sH
Bow Push Stick - lddy.no/1i2ss
Bow Featherbards - lddy.no/1i2sr
Allred Woodworks Push Stick (use contact form) allredwoodworks.com
Tourniquet 2- Pack - amzn.to/3Tlcmn3 (FYI do NOT practice with the tourniquet you intend to use. I recommend buying a separate practice tourniquet)
How to Apply a Tourniquet @PrepMedic • Stop The Bleed: Tourni...
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0:00 Table Saw Upgrades
0:08 Best Table Saw Blades
2:33 Miter Gauge for Table Saw
3:37 Table Saw Sled
4:54 No Jointer No Problem
5:27 Thin Rip Jig
6:03 Jessem Stock Guides
7:39 Table Saw Push Sticks
8:45 Featherboards for Table Saw
9:55 Zero Clearance Table Saw
10:33 Power Tip Time
#woodworking #woodworkingtips #tablesaw
▼EXPAND FOR TOOL LINKS and INFO▼ Watch Next: Why Doesn't Everyone Make These 5 Miter Saw Upgrades - kzhead.info/sun/qpRwj6dop6CfmKs/bejne.html (If you use one of these Amazon and other affiliate links, I may receive a commission) Diablo Blades - amzn.to/3PKHWZI CMT Chrome Blade - amzn.to/3tt8kzC Ridge Carbide Blade - lddy.no/1i2st Forrest Blade - amzn.to/3Q5Vj81 Freud Dado Blade - amzn.to/3LQz2Zj Incra V27 Miter Gauge - amzn.to/3F8ik48 Harvey Compass Miter Gauge Safer Cross Cut Sled Plans - www.731woodworks.com/store/safesled Matchfit Clamps and Bit - amzn.to/3tiECNH Thin Rip Jig - amzn.to/3rICnCZ JessEm Stock Guides - amzn.to/3ROGbgw MagSwitch Magnets - amzn.to/3RJU53H MicroJig Gripper - amzn.to/3RQEIXk MicroJig Gripper2 Go - amzn.to/3RP67sH Bow Push Stick - lddy.no/1i2ss Bow Featherbards - lddy.no/1i2sr Allred Woodworks Push Stick (use contact form) allredwoodworks.com Tourniquet 2- Pack - amzn.to/3Tlcmn3 How to Apply a Tourniquet @PrepMedic kzhead.info/sun/qruPnslvmoeooHA/bejne.htmlsi=GNlYzCNvid8nnRQ6 📲 Never miss another tool deal. Sign up for my Tool Deals SMS Alerts - NOTE: I text out tool deals so you don’t miss any! text DEALS to 1 (731) 207-7151 Be sure to add DEALS to your text to me so you get added to the proper list. You can also click this link my.community.com/731woodworks Important to add the word DEALS to the text! 🇺🇸 Join the Tubafour Nation on Patreon to get an exclusive Tubafour Nation sticker, access to exclusive member-only behind-the-scenes videos, member-only livestreams, discounts, and other cool member-only perks! www.patreon.com/731woodworks Some other useful links: Daily Tool Deals on my website: www.731woodworks.com/tool-deals Subscribe to our email Newsletter: mailchi.mp/7e44c16eefdc/731-woodworks-email-newsletter Check out our easy-to-follow woodworking plans: www.731woodworks.com/store Outlaw's Board Butter - So Good it Should be Outlawed: www.731woodworks.com/store/boardbutter
As a LEO in Washington looking to get into woodworking after retirement, I absolutely love your channel. I have a question regarding your tapering / jointing jig. What do you think about setting the jig up with a track on the bottom that would fit in the T track on the top of the table saw so you don't have to use the table saw fence? It seems to me, that would be a more repeatable set up. Any input would be much appreciated.
@@minjin0259 Thank you and thank you for your service! Yes, you can add a runner on the bottom to ride in the t-slot of the table saw. That would work great.
I appreciate the emphasis on having a TQ in the shop, such an underrated need.
As a former paramedic I 100% agree with buying only name brand tourniquet. The cheap imitation ones are not good.
Can you recommend a couple of good brands? I’ve been out of the game a few years and know there were some early tourniquets that were the go tos, then found to be trash.
@@reggiek6730 C.A.T do some good ones and their luminous orange, easy to spot
CAT brand. There are a few that have cat in their name but not from CAT.
My great grandfather was killed in the early 1920s, bled out from being impaled by a kickback.... I have car tire innertube to control the bleeding. Just keep your air compressor running when using your table saw. PS: The first sentence is absolutely true.
@@andyhastings5950😮
Watching this video was like unlocking a treasure trove of woodworking wisdom! The explanations were clear and concise, and I appreciated the detailed demonstrations of each upgrade. I'm impressed by how much of a difference these simple modifications can make in optimizing the performance of a table saw.
Agree with all the recommendations, including the tourniquet. Ridge Carbide sells great blades, but their sharpening service is the best I've ever found. If you buy any brand top quality blade, they can re-sharpen it several times. They also balance and true up the plate. This offsets the initial high cost and makes the blade last a lot longer than a cheaper blade. The price list is on the web-site so there are no surprises. And, the blade has your name engraved on it !! Thanks for another thoughtful video.
Handles on the cross cut sled are a fantastic idea!
Great tip about the tourniquets. I also have them all over my shop. I obviously use them with my job but they WILL save a life.
"Buy once, cry once." ❤ it!
Just built myself a basic cross cut sled for my Makita site saw - absolute game changer! i love it so much I'm going to build an upgraded one like yours 👍
I think this is one of the best and important videos I've ever seen from you, many thanks!👏👏👏
Brilliant, practical, thank you!
Building a cross cut sled is such a zen moment. Knowing you made something that can make a square cut to within a few thousandths of an inch is pretty cool. Bonus jig for me is an extended fence with infeed support.
You never hear about infeed but I've had more issues struggling with this than I think anything.
@@CeeJayThe13th Yeah. I’ve got a small’ish jobsite saw and making good cuts on plywood is nearly impossible with it’s short fence and small base. The wood always wants to wonder. Making a longer fence with infeed support helps a ton 👌
For the push stick, my favorite is a simple 2x4. In the 90's, I needed one and just ripped about 1/4" off the side of a foot long 2x4 with a bandsaw, leaving the last inch for the toe. Took about a minute to make. I still have it. The dimensions of the 2x4 and the profiled edges are very comfortable, a perfect fit for my hands. I have tried many others but kept coming back to my original 90's one. Now I have finally retired it - for another 2x4. This one is longer and the toe is about 4-5 inches. The reason for the longer toe is to keep my hand behind the blade during the entire cut, reducing the danger if a kickback occurs. I just ripped some 2" purple heart with it today.
These videos are great. I am new to woodworking and your advice is going to come in handy.
Matt -- I bought the Jessem stock guide about a year ago based on your review/video and have been working with sheet goods rather regularly ever since. It is without doubt the BEST accessory I have purchased for my shop - BAR NONE. Your explanation of how it operates and the benefits of using it were spot on. I am much more confident and safer as a result of having installed this on my saw. Thank you!!!!!
Great to hear!
Great video! I've built a crosscut sled, and I have the Incra miter gauge, but I use it on my Laguna bandsaw. I also have that thin rip jig you showed. It's awesome. Keep up the good work!
My first build was a mini crosscut sled for Dewalt jobsite saw. Made a larger one when I got the Sawstop..for my safety😊. Yes 100% agree the push stick that came with both above is warm garbage. Tiny lip wont keep the board down thru the cut so made one that would. Thanks for the shout out!👊
👊
Extremely good point about the torque kit
Saw sleds are a must, I have a number of them configured in different ways
Great tips indeed! Building a cross-cut sled, buying a quality mitre gauge, and building a mobile cart with storage table saw have been my best upgrades. Oh, and dust collection. You gotta have dust collection.
Thanks again for another great, informative video. I appreciate your knowledge and work.
Thank you! I really appreciate you watching and taking the time to comment.
Thanks for the great tips Matt. I need to make some upgrades for sure. 😊😊😊
Lots of great tips! I learned a lot. Thanks for sharing.
Excellent Tips love your videos, I'm just wanting to get into wood working but happen to have several main tools needed. One of which is the 10 Inch Table Saw with Fold and Roll Stand | Metabo HPT C10RJS, would love to get your feed back on this job-site style table saw
Love my CMT blades. Thanks Mighty Matt.
I have never heard anyone mention a tourniquet as a table saw upgrade, good job!
I really appreciate the greatest free gift you've ever received ✊🏼
Great suggestion related to the torniquet. Though a tension belt would be the fastest and will allow you to get moving quicker to seek help.
I would add a dial indicator that works off your miter slot to this list. Anyone who has an older table saw that has questionable squareness, this really should be your first tool. I have a cast-iron 1968 Mao Shan table saw and I started with several the upgrades that you've listed here, but nothing seemed to help because I couldn't get stuff squared. I went ahead and bought the dial indicator (I bought a Rockler version, but there are several different types that all do the same job) and used it to tune up my blade alignment, fence, and miter gauge. NIGHT AND DAY DIFFERENCE. If you don't have your blade and fence square to your miter slot, none of the rest of it matters! My two cents from the cheap seats. ;)
You are spot on. It not only makes your cuts smoother and prevents burning, it is also a safety issue. A misaligned blade can be dangerous, especially when ripping, because it can pinch the wood and cause a kickback situation.
For the Zero Clearance on my Sawstop I use the "Colliflower Zero Clearance" plate, which gives you the ability to swap out only a strip on the plate instead of needing an entire new plate for different blades and angles to get a perfect Zero Clearance. Colliflower also makes a similar plate for certain Miter saws, and a really great Miter Saw Zero Clearance Fence design which uses 3D printed (or hand cut wood) cubes you cut into to prevent kickback. I think Colliflower is mostly one person and they're a little overwhelmed right now, but the products are great.
A great video, and some great ideas, and even one from the comments, Mike Ringer suggesting a Dial Indicator that works off the Miter Slot. But, as far as a Crosscut Sled goes, I can't really see needing to make one and have it clutter the shop... When I'm also going to have a Chop Saw.
I bought the Skil job site table saw based on your video review and I love it. It would be great if you could do a build video on a cross cut sled for it and other smaller table saws!
I just got mine in the earlier this week and unboxed it. I’m looking forward to using it in my shop!!!
Same principles apply no matter the brand of saw. You just need to adjust the size to fit yours
Love the tourniquet tip I have had them in the garage the house the trucks camping kit everywhere
Definitely worthwhile tips... I use 90% of them!!
Great to hear!
I really liked this video, it had a lot of tips that people need. Especially table saw blades, you had a lot of good options
great topic, thanks 👍
I really liked the thin cut jig in the video. I never knew there was something out there for this. I actually paused the video and went on Amazon and bought one. I have those feather boards with the foam grips and I love them. I use them on my router table and there is no way of a kickback with these. before I got the feather boards I had a cheap router table and setup which went horribly wrong the first time I used it. The table started shaking then it grabbed the board and pulled my fingers into the blade. Routers don't cut off they chew up and spit out so not much to save. not I have a top of the line router table setup with Jessem one way rollers like for the table say you showed and the feather boards you showed. I know I have the safest system now. I can't imagine how things could go wrong again with my current setup.
Helluva good video, Matt. Absolutely agree on all points, although I'm guilty on a few of them, but will correct ASAP. The tourniquet is a capital idea. Thanks a million!
TQ for the win!
Your the hardest working man on KZhead and your content is always straight to the point without all the B.S
Thanks! I appreciate that!
I always enjoy your videos and have benefited greatly from your wisdom! I do want to offer one caution on the Harvey “Compass” miter jig? I rarely use mine. Why? Because it will only function properly on a mitered (angle) cut on my table saw, for pieces 4-5” wide. If you try to miter a board wider than this, the extreme outboard edge (left) of the miter falls off the top of the table saw, rendering it not useful. I will work better if one installs an in-feed table, I suppose?
I bought the jessem stock guides and made the jig per your instructions. It works great! Well worth the price and little amount of work to mount it to the table saw fence. Also first time buying and using the mag switches. They are very useful as well!
Will that Jessem work on the dewalt?
It should but depends on your fence having the width to mount via a jig.
im new to woodworking and just got the job site table shown. basically just building small projects around the house. cant wait. these are great ideas. I had one question. does a saw sled eliminate the need or lessen the need for push sticks and similar items? What are the drawback to the saw sled? is there a reason i shouldnt be using it for 99% of cuts?
Found this all very helpful. Subscribed!
Glad it was helpful!
Use your router trace your original insert. You can make 10 in half an hour . Mark it for each blade you have .
For tourniquets: always make sure that the ones you practice with are clearly labeled. North American Rescue even sells them in blue so that you don’t mistake used TQs you’ve trained with for ones that can be used in an emergency. (TQs are not designed to be used more than once. Once you’ve used it, it should either become a training implement or be disposed of.)
Also worth noting there is no dofference between the training and a 'real' TQ from NAR, only color. If they are out of stock of black or your preferred color and you dont have one, dont wait and get one in some other color. TQs are so important.
Definitely purchasing a higher end blade like the CMT and a a miter gauge.
Great video as always Matt have learned so much from watching your videos thanks for the great tips as well.
Thanks for watching!
In my shop I keep a full GSW trauma kit which includes the torniquet as well as a package of quick-clot and various bandages. I liked your recommendation to study up on how to use the stuff because first aid supplies are pretty useless if you don't know how (and when) to use them. Great video Outlaw.
Good idea on the trauma kit!
I Really like the MicroJig GRR-Ripper!
Great tips for table saw improvements! When talking blades, do a segment on cleaning and removing pine pitch, doing this will make your blades cut cleaner and last longer. First aid kits including tourniquets 💯agree!
Great suggestion!
I need to make one of those crosscut sleds.
Thanks for this info, Brother. Psalm 115:15.
like this information, well done, clear and get to it!
I'm not the greatest at math but I'm pretty sure that was more than 5! 😂 Great tips, thank you sir! Glad to hear CMT blades are worth it. I've had my eye on them recently.
What a great video! Great ideas, well thought out. You mentioned the Diablo blades. I've been running the Freud (nearly same) blades for many years on my cabinet saws and can't beat 'em. They last such a long time and have little flex. Now I'm going to check out your site...
Thank you!
great video bro thanks
As a church camp maintenance director who works mainly with donated equipment, I completely agree
I subscribed just for one fact honestly I learned 1 or 2 tips from watching this video and I was going to move on until you brought up a mere fact of the tourniquet that caught me off guard with that said I have over 30 years experience with table saws thanks
I'm sure we all know we should but many don't is having a good first aid pack that's highly visible, easily accessed and everyone in the house should know where it's at. Tourniquets, large bandages & dressing, medical tape, eye wash, ect and of course a selection of small Band-Aids. As well as a fire extinguisher. Also adding that highly visible safety area in your shop looks cool and reminds you as well as others "These tools demand respect".
Always love the info. You make great to the point vids. This one is no exception. Thanks
Good video 🤛
The Freud Dial-A-Width is the best dado set around. It's expensive, but worth every penny. The gist of it is, there are no shims to mess around with and/or lose. You just put the blades and chippers together, then turn a dial which increases the width of the stack by .004 for every click. It's incredibly easy to dial in that perfect friction fit.
I got the JessEm stock guides for Christmas but (!) I haven't taken them out of the box yet. I have to make the jig with your plans so I can add them to my SawStop too. I'll do it before Christmas once that rush comes and goes. 😅
Fav Thin Rip Jig :)
Good intel👍
My best professional quality push stick, among other shapes and materials that I make for my own use, is a simple aluminum bar, 1"x 1/8" or 3/16" in cross section. Tape for a handle, if you like (I like Rob Cosman's hocky stick technique.) Business end is a birds mouth, with a the top filed to a tooth, which I use instead of an awl for precisely grabbing the top of smaller stock. Durable, and its best virtue is that if ever the blade is contacted, it just shaves it with no drastic acting out, same as wood.
Easily one of the best videos you even made! Thanks and congratulations. Gonna follow your advice in all topics. All the best.
Glad it was helpful!
A good alternative to a good dado stack, and far easier to use, is a Bridge City Kerfmaker. Bridge City was one of the insanely expensive tool companies. Since Harvery bought them, they've come down to very, but not insanely, expensive. There are also BangGood knock offs and it's not that big of a deal to make one. The Woodpeckers FlipStop will do the same thing but also very expensive. A standard blade can be used with these tools but he bottom won't be flat. A #1 grind (flat bottom) blade will be needed or a little cleanup with a chisel after. Even if you have a dado set, this makes using it a lot simpler. Cutting miters, even with an expensive miter gauge can be iffy. A cheaper solution, that works with cheaper miter gauges is the "MiterSet". One will do N-sided boxes, and the other angles from 0 to whatever, by .5 degrees. Each costs about $100 but you might be able to get that back by buying a cheaper miter gauge. Two more "cool tools" for you, Matt.
Little known very good blade: Tenryu GM-25540 10" 40t combo gold medal blade
POWER TIP Tourniquet is the reason I sub'd ~ ! Thoughtful and smart content, nice job...
Tourniquet is a MUST HAVE. Practice with one hand on both sides. Your family will thank you.
Great video, thank you so much. I was wondering if the stock blade that comes with the Hikoki jobsite table saw C10RJ X is any good? Been using it for 3 weeks and loving it
I am on a shoe string budget. So my favorite upgrade is going from a plastic body table saw I got at the pawn shop for $10.00 to a Delta hybrid saw.
I'm as jealous of your urethane bumper plates as I am your tool collection! 😂
ha ha. I started out with some bare bones, cheap iron plates and used those for years. When I decided to get these urethane plates it took me a couple months to actually make the decision to purchase them. I was going back and forth on if I wanted to spend the money on them or not. Ultimately decided to do it and haven't regretted it. They are good plates. Been building up my home gym for about 4 years now, slowly over time, just saving up until I can get next on the list. It think I'vve finally got everything I wanted with the space I have available. Only thing I'd add now if I had space is an assault bike and maybe a tread mill. But won't happen in this space lol.
@@731Woodworks nooo! I LOATHE the assault bike! But if you do end up buying one... Highly recommend looking at the Fringe version... Belt driven and SUPER smooth!
I've a little question: Why do I need an miter gauge, if I have a crosscut sled (like your's with implemented miter gauge)? Great video with great tips! Thanks👍
Bought a hitachi table saw 20 years ago while i was renovating a 3 family i bought, i use it a lot, my brother borrows is too, it still has the original 10" blade, i have even cut thin steal brackets with it once. Watching this i thought i'd take a look at the carbide teeth, theyre still reasonably sharp, not perfect. I know about carbide cutters as i am a retired cutter grinder. I have a new blade but not changing it yet, all i'm saying is for $300 approx 20 years ago i'm satisfied with this cheap table saw and blade. Usually i dont cheap out with my tools but a friend said to me go to lowes and buy this, he used one at work and it was a good choice. I do know im not using it like everyday wood workers. Also i cant read on the blade the manufacturer but it kasted 20 years
Even though I don't have a ShopSmith they make one of the best mitre gauges. For the price it can't be beat
Just bought my first mitre saw so these tips are really handy. Had to laugh at your 'I needed a compact station because my space is limited' comment... your mitre saw station is bigger than my entire workshop!
No surprise, another awesome video!
Glad you liked it!
Diablo and Freud are made by the same company. While working at a woodworking store (that everyone would recognize) we had the Freud rep come in. He had just come from the HD down the street. When asked what we should tell customers the difference is between the two he laughed. Then he said that the company's description is that a Diablo is made for a tool that goes on the back of a truck (jobsite) and a Freud is made for a tool in a shop. According to him the Diablos have softer carbide and are made to take running into a nail. The Freuds have different carbide formulations on differing products depending on their use and are harder than the Diablo carbide. Also, a Diablo can be sharpened a few times (and be better than when you bought it) while a Freud is sold sharp and made to be sharpened 8 to 10 times. I use a Freud Fusion on my crappy, really old Craftsman and get polished cuts. I used to keep a cutoff from that saw with me when on the salesfloor and would show it to customers. That led many to buy that blade. Impressive as I was not great at selling stuff. Cleaning blades is critical. Others mentioned that. Really should have been one of the tips. While the Freud rep was in the store the manager mentioned that the (really nice) chop saw had it's blade freeze up when they were cutting a lot of wood. First question rep asked was "Did you destroy your motor?" Turned out we hadn't, and were really lucky. Second question was "Is your blade dirty?" Of course it was, because no one was bothering to clean it. Rep said that the pitch on the blade caused it to get hot. That in turn caused the laser cut slots (meant to kill vibration) to heat up. If you look at a blade you can see how if those expand they will be forced to protrude to the sides. And that will cause binding. And that will freeze you blade in the kerf. Since the chop saw is direct drive that takes your motor from fast to stopped. And that frequently destroys the motor. So, keep your blades clean. Our store sold stuff to clean blades, but Simple Green works really well. I might have told a few customers that.
Thanks for the low-down, Dave! Hits the spot, when you're awash in a sea of hype!
When I saw your cross-cut sled I thought, "Wow. That looks like mine." Then I realized that I used your design to build mine. :) :)
Great Tips Matt! I especially appreciate the reminder about the tourniquets! I’m going to suck it ip and buy one of those today. It just makes sense!!
Best 10" Blade i ever used was a Teflon coated Milwaukee Carbide 40 tooth. It cut everything effortlessly even 20ag sheet metal and nails.
I always keep a tourniquet in my chainsaw bag, which is in my shop. And one in my lunchbox for work. Which is always in my car or with me!
What blade would you recommend for the Dewalt 8.25” table saw?
Awesome tips. Are you a professional wood worker? I'm curious what you're mainly producing with your woodwork. Thanks
Thank you for the video. Happy new year! I saw an amana tools prestige saw there but you did not mention it. May I ask your opinion on them?
Believe it or not I'm still using a HT dado blade. I've made well over 100 cuts. My saw guy had no problem sharpening the set (once every 2 years).
Hi. Thanks for the helpful video. However, I have a problem choosing a disc for my Dewalth 7485. It is a disc for precise cutting on both sides of laminated chipboard. Each decorated disc is cut precisely from the top and more or less chipped in the laminate from the bottom. I use a 24 and 52 tooth chainring. The one with 52 teeth has a diameter of 2.2 and gets stuck when cutting longer pieces. During conversations with various specialists, I heard that this saw (Dw 7485) will never cut perfectly on both sides because its disc speed is too low. Please write your opinion on this matter. Maybe you know about discs that can be cut perfectly on both sides and have the right diameter so that the pieces do not get stuck. Of course I use a wedge. Thank you .
lol you just made me terrified of using my tools XD
I’m interested because most of these (minus the sled and miter gauge) require an accurate fence. You mentioned that you used to have an old Delta saw. That’s what I have. The “fence” is a 2x4 attached at only one end. It has a huge amount of jitter as the work approaches the back of the saw because that end is not secured. I can’t replace it because the bars that the fence is attached to are round. All secondary new fences require square bars. I’m stuck with it which means no accurate joinery cuts except what can be done on a sled. Certainly I would NEVER attempt a rip cut. Poorly designed upgraded fence systems that don’t mate to my saw are why so many of us don’t both with the upgrades you mention. It’s too dangerous.
Diablo blades are kinda the best bang for your buck kinda choice. Not the best ever but definitely the best in their price range and good enough for the majority of people I'd think.
do i still need to build a cross-cut shed if I buy a harvey compass or an incra5000?
You are awesome!! I did slice into my ring finger months back. I had to clean up real quick then call my better half to come down stairs and take me to the hospital.
I added an aluminium extrusion to my fence that’s my favourite upgrade
Because I don't have a table saw!? Is that all right. It's a starter blade. Then you buy what suits you work. God bless.
when I first got my table saw (Dewalt 7485, man I wish I got the 10" one that can fit a dado blade instead!), I built a sled for it. Since then I got a 12" double bevel miter saw and it's just been sitting down next to the scrap pile. Maybe it's time I took it apart and used the scrap wood and build another one in the future with half inch plywood instead of 3/4" because that shit was heavy!
The other day we had to make a compound miter for a panel so we had to clamp a jig cut 22.5 degrees to the sled to get the right angle to cut our 45 degree bevel edge on a 45 degree angle along an 8 foot long panel of MDF. Showed my boss a thing or two that day
That thin rip jig is genius. So are the Jessum stock guides but holy cow are they expensive. Add in the cost of the mag-switches and $$$ 😢
The best thing I've ever done for my table saw (an early 1980's Sears cast iron contractors) was removing the arbor and having a machine shop true the surface than touches the blade. A .001" wobble on that surface created a > .005" wobble at the blade teeth, which was very noticeable.