How to Fix Damaged Cables The Easy Way | Electrical DIY You Need To See!
In this electrical DIY guide i will be showing you how to repair a damaged cable. I will take you through step by step, showing you how to fix a drilled or cut wire. If you like the video then leave a like and please subscribe for more content like this as I've got a lot more to come and there will be something that will help you out.
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If you are not confident undertaking electrical work then you should have this work undertaken by a qualified electrician.
Ct1 the box in. No messing about with drilling...great video
Another fantastic tutorial, all your videos are top notch but I think these "when things go wrong" videos can be a god send when you get into trouble.
Glad you like them!
I did this a few years back when hanging a picture. Golden rule of never drilling when there is a socket below but stupidly I forgot it was there. Have had a 'temporary' repair with sealed in terminal block but after seeing your film I'm going to dig it out and do it properly.
Great idea. Check out wiring zones as you may find cables in other places not only above or below a socket/switch.
If your going to dig it out do a real cable repair.
Neatly done. I've been in the embarrassing situation of drilling through a cooker cable (in the 1980s). I thought that I was nowhere near it, but it had been installed diagonally down the wall! Lesson learned- always assume that there IS a cable and use a detector first. Luckily I was able to pull the cable out and replace it with new. (We had just moved into that particular house and also found that the metal spotlight fitting in the kitchen had its body connected to the live supply. I am now quite paranoid about other people's installations) Since we moved into our new home 3 years ago, I have come across quite a few bits of poor installation and am still finding obscure cables in walls that I have yet to identify, but at least I am not drilling into them.
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Excellent video! Ideally I'll never drill through the cabling but at least I'll know how to fix it now
Absolutely! Thanks 👍
A good video as a retired sparks I would say although you isolated the MCB thereby removing the positive phase there is a chance that when you cut the cable the RCD trips out that is because the CPC and Neutral are being shorted and the RCD is designed to react to an imbalance between the conductors. The neutral is also considered a current carrying conductor
Yep, happens in my house a lot , if any wire touches , the box shuts off the whole house . Easy to reset though.
Wouldn't this only be dangerous if the RCD is single-pole? Otherwise the neutral would be disconnected as well when switched off
Thanks for that I wondered why it tripped when I isolated the circuit 👍
Another superbly helpful video.. how can one person have so many useful tips to share.. my one go-to now if I need help with any DIY problem..
Wow thanks, really appreciate it. Long may it continue
I too have done this. While it was hassle lifting floorboards, I was much happier just running a replacement cable - so much less making good to do.
this is amazing stuff to learn! Thank you!
My pleasure!
Great video, really will help amateur DIY people, like me. 👍
Glad to hear it! Cheers
Good video. I would use Wago inline connectors (221/2411) and Wago box in this situation if the cable can’t be replaced. The connector gives a little bit more freedom being slightly longer. VDE cutters also in case you’ve isolated the wrong supply!💥
Good suggestions
Wago boxes are very deep though. Hagar boxes are slimmer.
The other thing is all of the Wago box designs I've seen (and just the connectors themselves) usually do not work very well if you need to connect two butt-ends of a wire together _with no extra length to play with,_ such as in this situation. I really wish that somebody would come up with a good Wago-221-style solution for this sort of in-wall butt splice connection, though.. I really don't understand why apparently nobody has yet, since I think if done right it could make things much more compact and also much easier to install...
@@foogod4237 As the original post said, wago make inline 221 connectors and there is a wagobox light that is inline. There is also a new box for wagos called the quick fix jb3
Totally agree why use such a massive box when you can use 3 connectors? Seems a lot of unnecessary hard work?
I subbed this channel for the loft lighting vid, but have stayed because the rest of the content is also top notch. 👍👍👍
Awesome, thank you!
Very good 👍 the right way to do it. I've always done it like that, well of sorts 😉
Thanks 👍
I am quite new to DIY, after watching few DIY channels on KZhead, I got a stud finder which tells me where things are including power cables, so I don’t drill them, so and people who are thinking about doing DIY getting a stud finder so you know where things are behind walls ie plaster boards. So things like this will not happen. Plus in a normal situation you would know what circuit you have damaged or need isolated at the consumer unit, as the MCB for that circuit would be flipped to cut off the power to that circuit, so you would not need identify, it is a good idea to device (lockout kit) to keep the power off from that circuit so no one can turn it on while you are working on it.
Another great video , THANKS 🥰
Very welcome
Good stuff. Well explained.
Glad you liked it!
Wago 221 connectors and a Wago junction box are my ideal choice
Wago boxes are deeper though, so more blockwork top chop out.
Honestly, it's refreshing to see a channel for DIY enthusiast's that gives regs compliant advice. I'm an electrical trainer and I'm subscribing out of pure interest and support. 👏👏👏
Thanks for your support. I'm glad you like the channel and it will continue to improve 👍
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Electrical trainer. God help us if you think this is acceptable.
@peter sharpe. This is a maintenance free junction box. In the UK this repair is within regs. Leave your negativity elsewhere
@@petersharpe742 it is completely compliant and it's good to see DIY guys that give a shit about being safe. There are plenty of idiots that would chock block it, tape it and bury it back in the wall gold card sparkies included. I've seen plenty of dangerous shit in my time and this isn't.
Thanks, very useful guide. I've always dreaded doing this in my house, as all the walls are solid brick and plaster, so trying to knock the hole out would be a lot harder and more messy.
Thanks. Yeah it would be more difficult!
L O MATE.. On this side of the pond we don't bury splices, it's just wrong. We do have some approved splice kits , but they are absolute crap...You buggered it up, you fix it correctly.
omg I often use two 2x2,5mm mini Wago and piece of cable and electric tape.from cabinet maker to electrician, with love😜
Cheers, great vid.👍😎
Thanks 👍
In my old house I managed to fit a light switch cable running at 45 degrees. Didn’t even think I’d be anywhere near it😁. Confirmed more crazy channeling when I stripped the wallpaper in several rooms. Also had one plug socket in master bedroom running to a fuse labelled outside light. These people live amongst us, you have been warned 😅
Check out zoning, however it seems that the wiring in your house doesn't follow zones 🤔
@@TheDIYGuy1 the house we live in now was replumbed and rewired when we had building work done. Wiring is where you would expect to find it these days 😁. Great video, I was not aware of those boxes. Might grab one for the tool box. If you’ve got it you may never need it but if you haven’t then you end up with a junction box or whatever you have lying around. That looks a much better solution
Great video. When filling I'd probably prefer to initially put a piece of plasterboard in to cover most of the gap and then fill above and around it. It can be cut back out later if need be more easily than just filler, and just using filler can cause issues with drying time and/or the filler contracting after sanding, creating a sort of dent in the surface of your wall
Great point!
@@TheDIYGuy1 :) Ideally I'd try to cut the hole in a way that the plasterboard cutout is salveagable for re-using when filling - saves needing spare plasterboard - but I'm not sure that was possible in this instance as you probably needed to make exploratory cutouts first
Great video !! thanks
Thank you too!
What size earth sleeving do you use?
you need some blue grit on plastic for the filler to stick properly I also would use some dilluted unibond around the edges of the plasterboard on blockwork too
I did this last week and could find very little on youtube, nice once mate
Cool, thanks. Hope it went well 😃
@@TheDIYGuy1 it was a really small cut, so taped it up but knew that was the cowboy way, was not 100% sure of what type of junction box to use, thanks for the tip.
Ah yes glad to have helped
Nice video, I do enjoy your vids and have learnt quite a bit! Out of curiosity could you share what filler you used. When you put that box in I kept pondering how you were going to get some plasterboard in there as well and level it out. That filler looked like it did a decent job
Thanks. Yep it's pollyfiller all purpose but I actually prefer to use easyfill when I've got a bag.
Yes his videos should be watched, so you know what not to do.
@peter sharpe this is a maintenance free junction box. In the UK this repair is within regs. Leave your negativity elsewhere.
Interesting video and subscribed 👍
Can you show us more electrical installation example solar panels sistem installing the house tnx i love watching you videos and learning so much stuff
I'll see what I can do
Helpful
Great vid as usual 👍👍 i have bought a detector recently.Hopefully wont need to do this 🤞
Out of all the DIY channels I still find the way you explain things the best.
Thanks a lot 😀
i had the same issue and i have used wago connectors and a wago box . the only difference it was a cable for the fan extractor in a bathroom . any advice on that ??
Great as long the joint is accessible
Very neat repair . My advice to any diyer is to buy a cable and stud finder ceck before you drill . Saves a lot of work and stress
Absolutely right!
It's a potential life saver ~ it not only steers you clear of drilling into a live cable, it can also save you the slow and painful death that would come from having drilled into the water pipe, the missus chases you round the house biffing you over and over with a good old rolling pin until you stop breathing whilst shouting you idiot, you idiot.
Great video, can you tell what the marker is you are using? Thanks
Hi it's a tracer pencil
good job mate
Thanks
Have you seen quickwire 2 Way splitter? It's maintenance free and much smaller and easier to use
Whenever I encounter wiring in a confined space, I use thin nosed pliers to manipulate the conductors. It makes the job a whole lot easier.
I'm guessing the stud / cable finder was used to make sure the cable was drilled this time? 😋 Only kidding, really informative and detailed guide, thanks for posting. Nice one on nearly 130k subs too, it's amazing how fast your channel has grown. I will need to join your Patreon some time.
😉 I almost missed it as well even though I knew where that cable was lol. Thanks a lot, it's crazy how it's grown!
I did this recently but on an external wall. Would you still use the multitool but just be a bit more careful cutting out?
If the wall is brick, you can't use a multi tool. A multi tool is ideal for plaster board, thin wood, plastic, dob and dab.
Nice one
Thanks for watching 👍
You are the best
Great video tanx for the upload,wouldn't it be easier and quicker to use wago connectors and casing
Your welcome.
Not easier, just different.
In the USA, concealing a junction box of any sort is taboo because wherever there any sort of connections are made--this because Murphy's Law dictates that a connection failure will occur in a concealed, thus unknown box. Instead, I'd prefer a regular switch box with a blank wall plate or a flush-mount junction box.
Right-0, quick fix, and Bob's your uncle!! Unfortunately, this process is not legal in the USA
The softest block i have ever seen im re doing my basement and have went thru 6 drill bits so far with a hammer drill just for hangers
I did DIY putting up a picture in a new house , not havingca clue that the plumbing to the radiators came DOWN the wall centrally then split off to each side . The water went right past me in a fast jet . I did a similar thing , cut a hole to see the location , cut the plastic pipe at the hole , and put a push fit straight connector to reseal it . lesson learned about new house practices . In the wiring scenario of course they could have / should have used a live wire detector and saved all that bother , sadly for me I did that , but as it was a plastic pipe , the metal detector mode found nothing , and I hit the pipe .
Thanks. If you push a wire in and then need to remove the wire if you find it was in the wrong block, how do you remove the wire? I haven't been able to find out how to do this. Pulling it with a lot of force hasn't worked.
i like your vids and it does not make me look dumb
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@@TheDIYGuy1 i dont get all the mystery. i keep wanting to do courses
@@TheDIYGuy1 meawhile on serial moaners from artisan ..that keep coming up.
Won’t that still trip the RCD if neutral and Earth touch. And when it is cut.
In the Netherlands it's not allowed to hide a box like that in the wall. So then you need to replace the cable or wires, which is the reason we use flexible tubes with wires in our walls.
Same in the US. You'd either need to replace the wire or, if you add a junction box like this, it would need to be accessible with a blank cover plate, etc. You can have hard-to-get-to junction boxes (in the attic, for example), but you can't have concealed/hidden ones like this.
As if you can run new wires through those awful flexible ones.
Same here just across the border in Belgium!
What about junction boxes as a routine part of the circuit, is that allowed? Or do you literally have to run wires from accessory to accessory without any breaks?
Or do the same with a new isolation switch box?
👍👍👍Thank you
Welcome 👍
Does the connection enclosure nit need to be left accessible now?
No because it’s maintenance free
Another good job done there, with some useful tips 👏. Did you have to use a continuty tester to test the circuit or just turn the MCB on and plug an appliance in to see if it worked?
It's an inline connection,as long as earth, neutral, and live are in the same line everything is fine. Just make sure everything is really tight.
@@flatmoon6359 Absolutely not, before patching up you should retest the circuit, particularly the Earth loop to check the connections in the junction box itself are good.
👍😁. Maybe a video short on types of detectors, and how to use…stud, cable, pipe etc so we don’t make this mistake to begin with ? Cheers.
Great suggestion! Thanks
always always check the wire before you cut or touch it and check if its live. Cant stress that enough. Buy a elpa tester it can save lives.
i have done just this but the walls are pre fab cast concrete with metal conduit ! looks like will be creating a lot of dust to get to the wire!
Yep it will require a lot more knocking out.
The "second cable" holder block had a screw missing, I hope it wasn't loose inside that box? Always advisable to tighten these screws even if they are not used.
Nope not loose in there, I dropped one so "borrowed" it from the other side lol.
Excellent video but can you make a video on how to fix a cable in a solid brick wall
Luckily this has never happened to me. Would be nice to see a brick wall version. Especially the repair of the plaster. Nice video though.
Good point
If your gonna put one of them boxes in you may aswel chop a back box and install a fuse spur, if not then impersonally wouldn’t cut and rejoin anything that’s not effect, crimp the only Damaged core.
How would you ensure that cable you are repairing is on circuit you isolated?
The safe isolation process using a voltage tester and proving unit.
@@TheDIYGuy1the pont i am trying to make is that plasterboard fixing can be only touching live conductor and not necessarily have created short circuit. In this case fixing is live and you don't have acces to earth potential to prove circuit dead. Just switching breaker off doesn't mean this circuit is on that breaker unless you can prove it otherwise. I would recommend switching power to entire house and then lock it off. This is the safest condition if you are DIY er
Any reason you went for such a large connector box rather than a smaller WAGO box?
Wago boxes are not much smaller. In fact they are much deeper, so more blockwork to cut out. Personally though, I would never just plaster over the top of any junction box.
How would u do it with concrete
A hidden junction box is an electricians nightmare. 🤔
And a homeowners 😢 I found live wire in my floor only because we were redoing a pony wall. I accidentally touched the wire and couldn’t believe it was live.
junction box should always be accessible
quick question , why is a screwless connection seen as maintenance free , i have never seen a screwed connection come loose on its own , where with screwless connections you're expecting a bit of copper under strain (the pressure junction ) to last for every
"quick question , why is a screwless connection seen as maintenance free" Because they don't slacken off over time. Screwed terminals can loosen over time, due to thermal effects. I've never seen it happen personally, but it is a valid scenario. Technically, it could be debated if the Hagar box is maintenance free or not, as it has screws for the cable strain relief. The regs dictate that all junction boxes in inaccessible locations need to be MF rated. Maintenance free.
because a screwed connector could become loose and would need re tightening hence its not maintenance free. you can also use crimped connectors as well as wago push fit
Can anyone advise me please?...i drilled thru cooker cable half between the cooker and consumer unit ....the cooker is on its own circuit due to its load i guess....am i allowed to join the cooker cable, or is it a requirement to put whole new cable from consumer unit to cooker?..thx
5:04 What is that tool called?
Supply is only “turned off” by the mob. To isolate use the mains switches and turn everything off. Safety first.
You can't just turn everything off, that's not a viable option most of the time
A bit disappointing... I was working in Dortmund Germany in the steel factory for some years. There, i have seen a damaged coat of a 3x185/95 mm² cable. I reported that and they sent me back, only with a pocket knife, a gas torch and a zipper sleeve. So i fixed it. Another day, the cable was a bit bigger (3x300mm² 30 KV) and buried 4-5 feet under. That cable was broken - i mean, an interruption. There were some guys with yellow boxes - one at the end of the cable, the other was walking along the path of the cable and after some minutes walking he said: "It's here." An excavator came and made a big hole into the ground. We cut some meters out of that cable, stripped the coat at both ends. We inserted a new piece of cable, put a box around it and filled that with resin. Job done. But that's nothing compared to the cable damages, a melting Furnace (those, that make raw iron from coal and iron ore) will do! That's awesome, Fixing 300 cables, 5 of them were 3x195/95 mm² types. That was some days before christmas 1988. I can tell you - i appreciate my office job these days! There were three incidents while i was working there. The other two didn't make such big damages. But they were still quite impressive! One was caused by a melting copper nozzle that usually blows hot air into the furnace. These nozzles are chilled with cold water that flows inside. That particular day, one of those copper nozzles broke and sprayes a lot of water into the furnace. The result: That pressure blew out two of those nozzles and tons of molten material. The third one was nice too - no dirt covered the cables - just the coats were molten and packed to one brick 😀 The reason was, that the melting process had an unexpected issue - the ore and coal did not, as expected, slide down in the furnace. It was stuck - the heat melted that material so it created a dome. Below the dome a lot of hot air and i mean about 1500°C or more. Then suddenly, that dome collapsed and this air was supercompressed and by that got a lot hotter. This hot air went the normal way out of some pipes with diameters of 2 meters more or less... Those started to glow and by that, melting the cables. They continued operating the furnace manually, so everybody there was wearing full face masks and filters. Every now and then, big orange clouds appeared there, so we had to go away. When these clouds were gone, we changed our filters and continued fixing the cables. I can tell you - there's no place like a furnace where you have 600°C hot pipes 5 meters behing your back! Did i already mention, that i am working in IT now and never regret, doing that? So, what about fixing some cables, as thick as a pinky in a house at comfortable temperatures with fresh air?
I'm no sparky but I can't understand why calling the Earth cable a CPC. CPC to me is Certificate of Professional Conduct. Excellent video 👍
Circuit protective conductor.
Circuit Protective Conductor. The reason is that "earth" gets used so often for the name of a common voltage potential in so many different contexts then the neanderthals it is apparently too confusing so their leaders gave it a new name to avoid confusion.
Nope, it’s correct.
I am a sparky and me like many others in the trade call it Earth wire . Its been a Earth wire for 100 odd years so why change it .
Colour Personal Computer
Might make for an interesting vid in the future on what to do if you drill into a PEX pipe on a heating circuit - asking for a friend! 😂
Haha!
I i not trained as a sparky, I can do any work BUT I don't have the equipment to test it. Just a DMM. I don't throw away cash to a government approved scheme. I have never drilled a pipe OR a hole but my other half (Birmingham cable 1995 took out 2 cables, a pipe and opened the tv cab door with 2 vcr double stacked, top one fell off and smashed the from the top on the floor, facia broken). Happy days. He was a 'carpenter'
I was waiting to see that it was a maintenance free junction box, and ready to complain if it wasn't. 😄 Glad to see it was. I've used the Hagar maintenance free boxes myself, good product. In fact I would never use the old round screw terminal junction boxes for anything. Not quite sure about just plastering over the junction box though. I would have made a deeper hole and covered with plasterboard, then skimmed on top. Or just a box with blanking plate if aesthetically acceptable.
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your somewhere over seas for someone like me but based on what ive seen i assume your based in the UK as hager and crabtree are often used in the uk along with the color of the romex and the wires themselves....not sure if its called romex in the uk as here in the US outlets have a black wire for hot/live white for netural and for ground i think its just green there might also be yellow and green for ground but im not totally familiar with the electrical code....in a 230-250v outlet (2x120v) here in the us its both black and red is hot white is neutral and green is ground....a fun fact though im not sure when the electrical code was changed but in the old days on a 240v outlet the ground and neutral can share the same wire back then there was only 3 wires for the 240 outlet current electrical standards the ground and neutral are no longer on the same wire
We call the cable twin and earth here.
How can i check ive made a proper earth conection ?
Test it 😀
In New Zealand it is regarded as unauthorised work to hide a connection with in a wall, you can use a junction box that is accessible but you can not hide it in a wall cavity, this is a big no no.
I need something like this buy way smaller, the cable needs to be cut about 4cm from the floor so could not fit something so big. Anyone any suggestions?
I used a maintenance free soldering iron
Nice video. But this will only work as long you have some of these funny walls. Try that with a solid brick wall, like we normally have in Germany. Good luck with that.
Do able but yes, definitely harder
This diyer is ok. All I say is people need to check continuity of cables to make sure it's connected ok. Use earth sleeving .
Yep and earth/cpc sleeving was used.
@@TheDIYGuy1 you made that simple and pointed out the risks good video
Cool tattoos 👍🏼💎
Thanks a lot 👍
As an electrician I watched this out of interest. This is not the best way to fix cables and an electrician would crimp the cables. However the point of the video is simple. If you want to do it yourself a maintenance free box can do the job 👍.
A better way is to use heatshrinkable crimps which are less likely to loosen up than screw terminals plus they are hermetically sealed
These aren’t screw terminals. If they were then it wouldn’t be to regs
That type of repair is illegal in the US. All splices must be accessible here in the US. There once was in-line repair splice, that could be buried, but no longer available. Not sure why..
We have same rule in UK. With exception for maintenance free connection. Terminals are spring loaded so will automatically adjust to temperature change, unlike screw terminal working loose overtime.
Remember its really important to test the circuit after the repair to make sure you have kept continuity... Also in this exact situation it would probably be better to go above and run a new cable down the wall rather than make a repair like this, would probably be no extra work unless of course it is completely inaccessible..
Absolutely, as mentioned during the video.
How would you go about changing the entire cable?
Would have used crimps & heatshrink & cap it.
Do it yourself! When I was an installation inspector in the 1970's a woman was really surprised that I pulled the main fuse and sealed the cut outs off. She said her husband was an expert DIYer and would be most disappointed as he'd done the rewire himself....in bell wire.
Just repair the pipe, and pull a new cable! Do not make a hidden joint! I often watch videos about electricity from the UK and USA. It is interesting to see how terrible the martial and techniques are. I usual keep my mount shout about it, and just enjoy the show. But this time I had to speak up. //Form a land where every house has 3 x 230/400V + TT grounding, ground fault interrupters on all circuits (since 1975), and "maintenance free" sockets and switches (since 1981)//
Bit confused with this, the cable is in conduit for ease of future replacement etc, so why not do just that. Plus dont the wiring regulations state that junction boxes have to be accesable which if this is buried in a wall its not. I would only ever consider this to be a temporary job but for the amount of time it takes might as well do a proper fix on it there and then.
Not in the case of a maintenance free junction box such as the one shown. Yes the cable could be replaced as explained however if I did that then I wouldn’t be able to teach people without conduit to make this repair. This is an acceptable permanent repair within regs
not sure if UK, is under the EU standard, but here in DK is not legal, to hide a junction box, inside a wall... what if you have a bad connection someday, u never find it :)
this is a big box for 3 wires. :D
You will also have a destroyed drill?
how about just crimping it together?
That would not be acceptable.
No wonder why it was drilled through, looks like it’s outside the 150mm safe zone as prescribed in BS7671 & Part P of the building regs.
Nodding away here as if I could do this easily but the reality is This repair would take me about 4 weeks and probably result in me destroying a walk or the whole house. 😆
Haha you can do it I'm sure!