How To Hide TV Power Cord And Cables | Easy Way To Move An Outlet
2024 ж. 8 Мам.
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I will walk through the ste-by-step process of moving an outlet to the back of your wall-mounted TV. The kicker is we will make it so you don't have to do any drywall repair or painting. Additionally, all the work will be completed in the room and you won't be going up in the attic or down in the basement.
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I am a contractor with over 30 years of experience in multiple trades, and I just wanted to compliment you on your very nicely demonstrated procedure. You articulate very well and your information is "refreshingly accurate"..a real benefit to people who would consult such videos of guidance on how to do something themselves, particularly if they have little or no experience at "do-it- yourself" tasks. Thank you, and Cheers to you, my friend!
I'm not a professional but I couldn't agree with you more on this video!!! I guess I'm gonna have to watch more of his videos now!!!
I agree that he articulates as well and is concise with good flow. A few more pointers: 1) Every home owner or contractor (up sell and QA opportunity) needs to keep documentation of any modifications or anytime you have to open a wall (especially if you do good work) that saves a ton of headache later and adds to resell value is to keep a notebook of modifications and where things are (digital is best so you can add photos easily). 2) Protection is a good idea such as nail plate or he used "Easy Guards" inside the stud which neither protect the Romex behind the dry wall not in studs like conduit which based on the location behind the floor trim isn't likely so documentation comes into play instead. 3) I agree with @No1Sonuk, always have cheap non conductive fire resistant string to add easy access cord pullers to tie to box/romex/cables. Tag it, you can buy 1000 of these for like $2, I bought the ones that double as anchors/mag guide compatible since tech is constantly upgraded, 500 for $8. 4) @EverydayHomeRepairs, A list of bare minimum common household tools and then recommended would be nice since you articulate so well and probably already have a database where you keep track of some of these things for analytics and recycling content, its a simple export paste or AI tool. 5)@gerrymcintosh4477, I agree, a quick mention of Spackle and printable chalk would have been good and can still refer to who you support for details. 6) Recessed box options: box extenders, angled nail Electrical Boxes, Sandwich style boxes, 2-gang Recessed TV Box (use generic search terms like low voltage or Multimedia Outlet for 3rd or half priced boxes compared to marked up marketing schemes), and pro tip of Outlet Spacers to bring to Code. 7) @chadm1978, agreed, clipping nails does take less time but I like to bend the nails or clip and grind if its not a big area. 8) @richarda3659, agreed quite often times TV's are mounted on an outside wall and a couple of considerations should be taken into account as well an insulation and house breathing air flow considerations where common thought would be to seal it up tight but extra considerations and tax benefits of updating insulation one room at a time might be very beneficial in which case your tax credit allowance.
A good salesman. Most videos promoting products l, some useless like this
What happened to the horizontal 2X4 at 4 feet, holding straight the 2 studs?
Easy when u have dry wall. Also u should insulate your earth cables
I'm a 35 year electrician and this video shows an excellent example of how to add an electrical outlet behind a TV. Very well done!
My thoughts exactly. Simplest method always the best.
7:07 Electrician or not, this is NOT the way to cut off the sheathing.
I have been watching youtube for over 20 years this is a great demonstration on how to add an outlet
Thanks for the support!
Bot. YT has only been around for 19 years
Your videos are always so informative, Scott. You not only show HOW to do the project but you also show WHAT tools work best to minimize my aggravation as a DIYer. Thanks so much.
Great video. I recommend fishing the Romex through the original outlet first. Push all the Romex through the outlet, the studs, then using a line to pull it up to the new outlet hole. This saves the effort of blindly pushing the Romex into the original outlet.
Exactly. Watching I liked how the romex magically came into the original box. That had to be a chore.
It seemed he dropped the Romex from the new box, pushing it down the short distance to the original box. Am l correct??
@@lynneldridge7661 Yes, that would be the best, most logical way to do it.👍 For whatever reason he didn't show that. 🤔
@@tompeters4234 yes I kept re-watching and looking for the part of how the Romex suddenly appeared behind original box
I wondered how he magically got that wire into the original box! Wouldn't he need to break a new tab off in the back to fit it in?
Thanks for this! New homeowner and new to electrical home edits and have two mounted TVs I need an outlet for! Love seeing all the contractor and electrician seal of approvals on here easing my mind that I won’t accidentally burn my house down over time❤️❤️❤️
Am I the only one wondering how you got the new wire up and into the existing box? You skipped that part. Overall a very good and concise video. I like your work.
I noticed that too. How did he fish the wire from the top box to the floor?
Feed from the box TO the floor.
I appreciate you highlighting all of the tools you use and the links where to buy them. Nothing is more frustrating than seeing a great video but not knowing where the buy the necessary tools to make the job easier. Another great video Scott.
As a DIYer, it's not even just knowing where to find tools, but even knowing said tools exist, which is something you just pick up on over the years. I can't even count the number of times I've said, "holy crap there's a tool for that?"
I wish you would’ve shown the part most important to me…how you got the new Romex to the original outlet once you ran it through the two studs.
Which is probably the most difficult part of the project.
Came to the comments to see if someone asked this!
Fish tape.
@@mattfleming86 But did he have to take that box out first to fish it up to the hole? Or did he fish it through a hole in the outlet box?
I've always struggled to do this. I personally have just always found it easier to rip the old box out and put in an old work box with the cables routed into it(if next to a stud, I prefer getting the old/new work boxes that can be screwed into the stud from inside the box)
Excellent video & workmanship. In my 50+ years as electrician, I:ve done thousands of similar installs & you layout the work perfectly.
Beautifully filmed and edited; it's all business, no cutesy stuff. Excellent educational standards. I am subscribed!
Yes. Cutesy stuff gets in the way. The directions flow well and are easy to follow.
That's fantastic! It just didn't occur to me that pulling off the baseboard was the way to hide the rework. Much appreciated. 😊
Just wow. So informative, and looks great. Love that it all is safe, and no "shortcuts".
Nice work, I have been putting off running wire behind the wall mounted tv for over a year and this path just encouraged me to go ahead and complete it
You are the Man. The best installation person on you tube ,make the job so clean and Easy thank you
Great video! One tip as a painter I can offer is use “painters putty” in place of caulk for the nail holes.
Nice work, easy to follow! Thanks for the tip on removing the base trim, that is the best time saver.
When using pry-bar place a 1/4" board between the wall and pry-bar so you don't gouge the wall from pressure point with pry-bar. Try and put prybar right above where trim nails are located so the trim doesn't split.
I'm not 100% sure I'll end up moving an outlet for my application, but wanted to see a few videos on how to do it just to have it as an option. This is by far the simplest and most clear to follow video I've seen. Thanks.
You are a wonderful teacher! I knew almost nothing about electrical aspects & after your clear, ego-less explanation, I know I could do this. Thanks!
Very nice video. I’m glad to don’t spend several minutes showing all the mundane steps, but rather you kept the flow of the essential information moving at an enjoyable pace. Super well done Sir. BTW, I use spackling to cover those brad holes and Alex Plus “paintable” caulk. Wish you well with your KZhead channel. 🇨🇦💝
I agree, a quick mention of Spackle and printable chalk would have been good and can still refer to who you support for details.
I was thinking there is no way you can do this without ripping up the wall. And you did it. I am stunned 😳
Nice job showing the difference on how to be able to gather all the wiring and the spacer on the plus on screws.
You made that look effortless!! Great job!! I actually have a spot in my living room that I have enough confidence to tackle now!! Thank you buddy!!!
This is actually a brilliant idea, versus cutting dry wall, and having to redo it all. Nicely done...
👍
I use wago connectors because of your videos. Easiest, most useful way to wire anything. Thanks for a great video. Super useful.
Totally agree and thanks for the feedback!
I know the goal was not major paint or drywall repair, but just have to add, the look, fit, and finish of a recessed box can be so nice when it comes to TVs. Absolutely love them on my installs! Definitely great content from the perspective of a low voltage guy though.
The cleanliness at the end 🤩. I can't think of a more beautiful thing
Nice!! I was suspicious of the claim to be able to run this wiring without drywall repair or painting. But, I'd never even thought of going behind the baseboard like that. Very clever!
I'm intriqued that the originating outlet has the grounds just twisted together, no wirenuts!! Have a house built around 1968, all the original outlets are that way. Whenever I've had the need to change an outlet, I'll replace all of them in a room, and make good ground connections. And WAGO 221's are the BOMB for this! Solid, fast, and easier than nuts.
Twisting the ground wires is actually more secure than using wire nuts. But Wago is much nicer.
Seems to be a standard around here. Almost every installation I have seen has had all the ground conductors twisted into a group. The good part is that you know the ground conductors have really good contact, but it's a real mess of copper in the back of the box. I'm 50/50 on cleaning it up or just leaving the thing that works alone, depending on the nature of the work I'm doing and how much energy I have to "correcting" it (I use quotes because twisting all the ground wires together tightly is a really reliable connection, so it's not wrong).
@@natehoy6924 I can see it being 'standard' but is it to code according to the time the house was built? And once seen, should it be left like this? I live in a house built about 1968, like most other houses in my neighborhood. I've lost count of the # of outlet boxes where twisting the grounds was done, which I then corrected to wire nuts (and now wago's). When we remodeled out kitchen I was very diligent about this;
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Outstanding! I have had his problem many times and did not have a simple solution like this. Thank you.
This kind of detail is what really makes a space come alive. Awesome
Really useful video. I recently wall mounted our TV with the plan to install an outlet behind it. That said, there are "in wall TV power kits" (LeGrand makes several) for behind the TV outlets which have you install two faceplates; one behind the TV with a receptacle that the TV (and soundbar if present) plug into, and one at outlet level near the floor with male prongs, and the two are connected in the wall cavity via a cord. You then run what's essentially a short extension cord from a nearby electrical outlet to the male prongs on the new floor outlet, which energizes the outlet behind the TV. Many of these kits include a non-electrical cord pass through molded into the faceplates for HDMI cables to game consoles, blu-ray players, etc. You wouldn't need to remove the trim, remove drywall screws, cut the strip of drywall away, cut power, remove and re-wire the existing outlet and the new outlet, reattach drywall and trim, spackle and repaint the trim, etc. You just need to cut two holes for the faceplates and fish the included in-wall cord from hole to hole. The one downside I can think of -- if you don't have a media center or other furniture below the TV, you'd see the short power cord running sideways from an existing outlet over to the new faceplate near floor level with male prongs. In theory, it's more expensive to buy one of these kits than buying an outlet but if you need to buy a trim pry tool, 15' of 12-2 romex, Wagos, wirestripper, etc. it will actually end up significantly cheaper for a DIYer on a budget. The only tools required would be a level and a drywall jab saw or multi-tool to cut out the holes for the faceplates.
Agreed, the recessed kits are the way to go, and an opportunity to run an HDMI cable down the same cavity with no actual additional work was a big miss. Even if not going with a recessed KIT, it should have been a recessed OUTLET so the TV could fit flat to the wall with a standard plug. It was a good DIY video, but a terrible AV/Tech video.
@@FHL-Devils He mentions the junction box at the end for additional wiring. Guess he just had no need so didn't do it here.
@@davidp6839 - Except that it's against code to have 120 and Low/No voltage wiring in the same box. There would be no viable way to create an HDMI / Optical run without repeating the process almost from scratch.
@@FHL-Devils Looked like a separate box/plate, so wires would be separate. More of a cover than a box, just access for AV wiring.
@@FHL-Devils Yeah he simplified it by claiming the TV didn't need HDMI any more because all content was being streamed wirelessly over WiFi, which is fine when that's the case, but a lot of times it isn't, and then it gets more complicated.
You explained this so well I feel confidant I could pull this off by myself 😌
did you?
@@wendyandmatthew8637 😂😂
This video was so well done, excellent workmanship and made it look so easy!
11:57 -- Highly recommend filling those gaps with caulking especially if you have ant problems like I do Looks fantastic! Great work
Thanks!
Big facts. I have huge problems with stink bugs. OMG. I hate them!
Awesome! Great job! But we rarely have dry walls in our country. They're mostly made of concrete, bricks or CMUs. So it's much more harder to do the same job here. Thanks for the video!
You have to just dig through the concrete.
I have wet plaster, what tool would work on t hat?
You did a great job there. Lucky to have drywall and studs. Most older houses here in UK would be plastered walls or perhaps dot and dab drywall so chasing out walls needed. 😳 Its also regs here to sleeve the earth wires so no bare conductors are showing. I like those cable protection inserts. Great idea. 👍🇬🇧
I am not even planing such a project and yet I watched the whole thing out of curiosity. Nice workmanship
One tip WRT the second wall plate you showed for HDMI, etc. cables is that if you use two, run a long piece of string between them for running extra cables later. Make it at least twice as long as the gap + 2 feet, with a loop knot tied in the middle. This can then be used to easily pull cables between the two holes.
I agree, always have cheap non conductive fire resistant string to add easy access cord pullers to tie to box/romex/cables. You can buy tags for it, you can buy 1000 of these for like $2, I bought the ones that double as anchors/mag guide compatible since tech is constantly upgraded, 500 for $8.
Huh?
This is not easy
I would rather leave it as it is lol
That’s funny I just thought “this seems easy enough” then I look down at comments & see this lol
It is easy. Just take your time. I'm an over 60 woman and I did it with my bedroom tv. Also ran speaker wires in our living room for our ancient surround sound system.
It's not particularly exhausting or strenuous maybe some tedium. Though
Mrchaker13's channel has an easier video, you don't have to change or connect electricity cables.
Excellent!! I just learned something new! not that I'll ever install one, but I'll know if whoever I hire is doing it right! thank you!!
Awesome video! One tip I recommend is to start at the existing outlet and feed your wire down to the baseboards. Then pull it to the newly created outlet hole. Before you put the old work box in, feed the wire through the box and then place the box in the hole and secure. Doing this method is way easier and you get the perfect length of wire. He didn’t show how he got the perfect length of wire. If you do it his method you have to estimate how much wire you need because it’s way harder to feed the wire coming the opposite direction into the tine hole in the existing outlet box. Let alone other wires coming into it. Outlet boxes also have built in strain relief(the angled plastic you push out of the way) so it makes it even more difficult to pull wires out of the box from the other direction which also makes it more challenging, if you do his method, trying to fish it up into the existing box. Long story short, save yourself time and frustration starting from the existing outlet and work to the new one.
Nice video. In the UK we have noggins between the uprights in our stud walls which would make this a whole lot harder but I loved the approach of just removing the skirting board and doing the cleve work behind that. Great work but UK plug sockets are the best and a whole lot safer
I always hate when my scuddilywumpus gets in the way of my didgeridoo.
@Phillip Banes fair points.
I’m a little surprised the walls woudln’t have noggins (or cross braces) at intervals. The height of a wall is a long way without bracing. Is it assumed the dry wall is doing that job?
what gauge is that wire? Seems pretty heavy duty for a regular 110v socket which I guess you’re normally only ever pulling 1.5kw off?
@@MrKlawUK 12 Gauge
This is great for situations where you don't have an outlet directly below your t.v. location. But the edge of the t.v. was directly above the outlet you pulled power from. So all you had to do was cut a j-bix sized hole behind the t.v. and run your new wire to your new j-box and outlet. Or you could have placed your new outlet on the other side of the stud from the old outlet and drilled your hole through the stud at that location.
This is what I do. 👍
Exactly no need to move Trim for this task..
Beat me to it. Exactly how I did it in my home. There is no need to have the plug centered behind the TV, it just needs to be _anywhere_ behind the TV. Arguably, it's much better being closer to one side or the other of the TV, so that you can simply reach your hand a short way in from the side to unplug it, if need be, without unmounting the entire TV.
i was going to say the same thing,no need to pull trim and drill holes in studs.
How would you get the other end of the electrical cable routed to the other outlet (safely) if you didn't drill through the intervening studs?
Hi, Very complete and detailed video! I just wanted to point that the electrical outlet behind the tv should be placed on a different spot because once you put the tv back up, the power cord will be on the way of the arms and the Tv will not go all the way against the wall. Once again very Professional job , detailed, clean and easy to understand
Thanks so much for this.. I wanted to do this but figured that I would need to hire an electrician! Appreciate that you are saving me money!
I have mounted many like this. However, I usually run romex thru back of lower outlet first then thru smaller holes in bottom of wall studs.Then it is easier to run the romex up thru the large space in wall and easy to grab at upper hole before installing new box. The wago do work well. Other than that, we both do the rest the same. Great video.
Thanks 👊
Why not run romex from the top and let gravity help you out?
Looking forward to this
Another thing about this video, is that it show that's it possible. Which gives us a an incentive to call a professional to do it for us, if we are not comfortable to it ourself.
Simple and elegant solution. Clear and useful tips/informations. Thank you for the nice work and video! :D
Easy guard is a cool addition. One of my first thoughts was the risk of shooting a trim nail into the wire.
Especially because the trim nails go into the studs pretty much exactly where the Romex passes through them. I'd almost think to use industrial adhesive on the back of the floor molding instead of nails, as that would be far safer, though more difficult to remove later on if it became necessary..I also felt the 1.25" holes drilled through the studs might unnecessarily compromise the structural integrity of the studs.
Make sure to check your local state requirements for how high the cable needs to run from the floor. In California its 16 inches to prevent electrocution from standing water. The Romex cable I coated but I wouldn't take any chances.
Some require any addition to a circuit be ARC fault or GFCI protected. Source outlet gets swapped. (Worse yet, some counties require the breaker then be ARC/GFCI. Gets fun if you have a Zinsco. Your little project just got expensive)
....... And nail plates on the studs. Next guy to come along to do a higher profile baseboards is going to shoot brads through that Romex.
@@shmellit123he used EZ Guard thru the studs.
I doubt if they are as puncture resistant as standard protective plates. @@anonymous.369
Great video, and Amazing skills showing that if you take your time, anyone could do a job like this just as good as any other contractor..
THANKS SO MUCH, YOU HAVE LEARNED ME SOMETHING THAT I DID NOT KNOW. SAVED ME A LOT OF TIME AND EFFORT.
Awesome job! In a perfect world the upper outlet would be in the same bay as the lower so you could just run fish tape to pull it up. I love Wago connectors. They are so great and are game changers. Thanks for posting.
Question for those wago connectors. This is my first time seeing them and I know very little about electrical. How do those switches know where to run power? Because wasn't that outlet a 4 way? (I believe 4 ways just mean it ties into something else in line, another putler or switch). When he did the 3 together into the wago and only 1 out, how does that affect the other things in line? Because if you wire them wrong the tester will say hot reversed/neutral reversed /etc. Love the idea but just bought a new house and while ill drop the money right now to do this, I don't wanna burn my house down lol
@@adm5163 So you have one black wire that brings power to the right outlet. When you connect it to a Wago with other black wires, those all are now energized, so the black wire that's going to the new outlet now has power. He branched off a single wire to the outlet on the right to energize it. It's the same principle with the neutrals and grounds. When connected with a Wago, they are unified, probably a better word, and all serve the same function. Any help?
@@Brian-Burke thank you and sorry I may have phrased that wrong. I understand that it unifies them (which is awesome and easy). But let's say in my home I do this, and there's 4 wires coming off the back of an outlet. 1 set is coming in to power the outlet and 1 set is going out to power something else correct? My question is why does it matter which wire goes where without the wago but when you use one it doesn't seem to affect the incoming/outgoing (polarity?) wires?
It does matter, regardless of whether you use Wagos or wire nuts. All a Wago does is provides an easy way to pigtail two or more wires together. When an outlet is in a string that feeds just feeds on to the next box, the electrician will often use the two provided brass screws to fasten the two black wires and the two silver screws to fasten the neutral wires. In this circuit, he was adding an outlet in parallel, so there will be three black wires, three white wires and 3 ground wires. This requires pigtailing to fasten all wires properly.
good video. I never thought about doing it behind the baseboards, too. One thing I got confused on was how you pulled the wire up from the baseboard to the old outlet. Those are closed boxes and you didn't show that final step in running the wire, which was the only one I didn't know how to do.
kzhead.info/sun/obufdaWGkYGPhqM/bejne.htmlsi=vjsvPlQSpHb35Ire
What a slick way to run those wires. I learned several new techniques from your video. Thank you!
I loved the way you explained how to do the job. I have little experience in electrical. I will use this video on my Laptop & replay as much as possible until I have it right. Thank you for sharing. David C
You bet, best of luck with your project 👍
Intro: no dry wall cutting. Proceeds to cut dry wall 😂😂
To be fair he technically said no drywall *repair* and none was required!
Technically, when you put the piece of drywall back in place, you did drywall repair. Also, this fix only worked because your trim was tall enough for drilling and cutting the drywall. Under the very limited conditions, good work. I think I would have sealed around the drywall cut.
@EverydayHomeRepairs, you just earned my SUBSCRIPTION because you made the process look easy. YOU ARE A CHARMING TEACHER🎉🎉
Great video and so clear. I never thought to go behind the base board but genius. I unfortunately have the fireplace so I will have to cut some holes behind TV but cover up with redesign
I love the video overall. It was slick and easy to follow. I also am REALLY glad to know about Easy Guard and the trim pooling tool. Thanks! I do however two items of concern. First, you didn't show what (for me) is the hardest part of the operation and one that I don't know how to do. How did you snake/pull the romex up into the old outlet junction box? That can be a little bit of a pain without the drywall in the way. To the best of my knowledge, this was (quite literally?) the only thing you didn't show in the video. Second, electrical codes. Isn't Romex supposed to be secured to the studs? And secured within 8-12" of the box at the TV? I don't think it is supposed to be just running up, inside the wall up to the TV outlet you installed. Please advise.
I wanted to see that as well.
This was a DIY project with (relatively speaking) very low current draw, and while I agree that this technique may not strictly meet code in all States, it's probably quite safe regardless, especially on what was presumably an inside, non load-bearing wall.
@@richarda3659 So, codes are just gentle guidelines that one can choose to ignore when one feels they are not necessary? I won't say that I have been 100% code compliant on every DIY project that I have ever done. However to not say anything at all about codes in the video is a concern, I think. 20 years ago, I wouldn't have even known to ask the code question. And, someone might 'leverage' this video and the technique to do something more dangerous than what was shown here.
There are differences in the NEC between new and old work. Is there a different requirement for wire securing that is old work?
I've run into blocks between the studs inside the wall before. That can definitely make the job take longer. Had to get an extra long spade bit to deal with that.
For sure, I need more practice with those flexible auger bits.
I guess if the block winds up being right in the middle, you might have no choice but to cut more drywall.
In UK there’s pretty much always a horizontal timber halfway up each gap.
Same here - I just give up and cut another hole in the drywall for my right-angle drill bit adapter and then patch the extra hole.
Never seen a house without fireblocks between studs half way between the floor and the ceiling.
I like how you took precautions for safety with the romax covers in the studs. Only paint would be on the trim which really could just be filled in with caulking. Nice video
Thanx for the video. That created an incredibly clean way to handle power cords and HDMI cables.
I was just going to ask the same thing as Clyde; what do you do if there's insulation in the wall? Often the wall is insulated, because TVs are likely to get mounted on an outside wall. But this was a very cool idea and I'm impressed with how clean the results were. Yeah, you'll have to fill the nail holes and touch them up with matching paint.
Then you are better off just using clips in the wall. You won't be able to completely hide them, but the result will be much cleaner
And re-caulk it
They make strong magnets with a leader on it. You can tie a pull rope to the leader (search AMZN for MAGNEPULL XP1000-6), then from the outside of the drywall, you put another strong rare earth magnet and just walk the magnet up. It'll pull the magnet right up the wall pushing the insulation out of the way. Or you can buy a pull (fish) rod that's flexible. Tie a pull rope to it and push it from the new junction box (at the top) and push it down to where the trim was. Untie the pull rope and us it to pull the new romex.
agreed quite often times TV's are mounted on an outside wall and a couple of considerations should be taken into account as well an insulation and house breathing air flow considerations where common thought would be to seal it up tight but extra considerations and tax benefits of updating insulation one room at a time might be very beneficial in which case your tax credit allowance.
I live in a Florida home with Romex wiring and I've dropped wires down the wall to add outlets. Personally I think removing the baseboards going to create more work especially when it's been caulked and painted. To each his own.
Some of the best DIY videos on KZhead.
Very professionally done! Very clear instruction. Thank you!
The only thing I would add is that when you're cutting thru the drywall do not go too deep as the outlet might be wired from below and not above you don't want to hit the wire feeding the outlet. Also in the case where there are 6 wires check the way the outlet is setup, it might be split and being fed by 2 separate circuits. IE each of the outlets might have its own breaker.
He checked both outlets to verify neither had power.
On this and some past videos, you're always working on interior walls. Things get a lot more complicated when it's an exterior wall with insulation and VB. Would like to see how you address that at some point. Thanks!
and getting around fire blocks
@@jeffh4505 I like to drill through the fire block with a 1" holesaw (1 3/8 OD) about an inch and a half, No worry of sheetrock screws at that depth. Sheetrock repair is nothing more than drywall patch from Home Depot
@@quehendricks is drywall patch fire-resistant?
Excellent video from a guy who really knows his stuff. Thank you.
Yeah, same here. All my walls a concrete, w/o cable cuts.
Excellent demonstration! I’m ready to get a few of these done.
Nice job and you showed every step. Thank you. So much cleaner!
It looks easy enough. Maybe I missed this, but how do you push the wires up from the baseboard to the old outlet?
Probably fished it through and likely was a PITA. Might have been easier to start by threading through the existing box. But hindsight is 20:20. This was a great video and explanation !
Neither fish tape nor fish rod are difficult to use. The only time there might be a problem is if there were fire breaks part way up the studs. @@robertf4209
Depending on your TV, the wall mount, and the plug for the TV you made need a media box rather than a regular old work box. They are deep and sunken in 2 gang boxes that allow you to mount a receptacle and the low voltage pass through wall plate you showed at the end side by side. It's needed if you dont have enough room behind the TV if its mounted nearly flush to the wall.
Those boxes are pricey at $25-35 (USD). If you had a flat screen in multiple rooms that can be a little much.
Thank you Scott. You are very good instructor, I appreciate you for sharing. God bless you 😊
Thanks so much!
This is a great instructional video! Very clearly presented & easy to understand! Thanks so much!
Beautiful work. I think I could do this. I'll keep you posted if I bump into anything. Thanks.
I'm amazed how in the US internal walls are made with studwork and drywall. No wonder they blow over when there's a bit of wind.
The video says to run 12/2 Romex. However, you should use whatever size wire is in the box you're extending from. If you have 14 gauge wire in the current box, then run 14/2 Romex. When he gets to where he pulls the receptacle out of the old box and pulls on the wires, you'll see the current wires have a yellow sheathing on them. So, his current box is 12 gauge. 14 gauge Romex has a white sheathing.
12/2 being yellow is optional, and has only been a thing since 2001. So it is possible to still find 12/2 that is white.
I was wondering why 12/2
If all you've got handy is 12/2, there's no harm in using the larger-gauge wiring in place of 14/2.
@@harvey66616 I guess
@@DJSubAir Though, I did see later in the comments, the original wiring was on a 20A breaker with 12/2 wiring throughout. So in this case, he was just matching what was already there.
Excellent video. Love that you clean up as you go along.
You highlight some great products i didn't even know existed making a pig tail with those connectors for instance compared to the old style wire nuts NICE and the hole guards I am definitely getting some of those before my next electrical project, Top notch video very informative.
In the USA, Yellow jacket wire is 12 gauge and used for higher amp circuits, usually in the kitchen for powering toasters, blenders, can openers, mixers, etc. You can use white jacket 14 gauge wire instead just like the wires entering the box below. It won’t change amount of power to the tv, it’s just overkill. Nice job!
Usual practice is to use 20 A circuit for receptacles and 15 A for lighting.
I was thinking the exact same thing. I was also taught to never back plug the outlet. Always put ‘em under the screw. As well as those plugs for the pigtail. I don’t always trust those. Always twist em with a pigtail and wire nut them together.. I’ve never seen those outlet spacers either nor had to pull off the tabs unless working with a metal box like a 1900 or so on .
@@joeweatlu5169new nec code does not allow the use of 14 awg wire anymore. Min is 12 for all 15 and 20a circuits.
@@LMB829 not even for lighting circuits?
I don't know if it's code or not, but I was told by an electrician that it isn't good practice to use different gauge wire on the same circuit, even if using 12ga. on an existing 15 A. circuit using 14 ga. wire.
Pretty classic approach to this problem. Doesn't work so well when the wall you'd need to drill through is concrete with just drywall and plaster over it. Conduit time...
Yeah, that would be a bit tougher. A lot of the guys from Europe usually give some grief that our US houses are made out of paper 😂
this video was super helpful. I learned so much more than I thought I knew. Thank You!!!
Love the Amazon link, I do pretty well I figuring out how to learn things but finding the right tools is a challenge
The most difficult part of this, at least for me, is how to get the romex from the floor up to and through the box. I also think opening a hole in the box already in the wall may not be easy. You kinda skipped those steps.
You’re exactly spot on correct!!!
I'd also appreciate seeing this.
Me too!
Paul, I have about 12" of chain, like the stuff on a basement light socket, tied to 8 feet of string. I drop it down, and easily grab it at the bottom, then tie it to the Romex and pull it back up. I always try to go down, not up, for my first action.
Wouldn’t you just feed it from the box down to the ground & fish it out of the opening behind the baseboard?
So when you ran the wire up the wall there wasn't a toe going from both studs?
No fire blocking in this wall. If there was you would have to use a flexible auger bit which can take some practice to not just damage the drywall.
Excellent instructions, I feel motivated to do some projects in my own home, bravo!!
Let’s Go! 🙌
I wish the UK electric code was as easy as this ... brilliant job I have adopted your amazing video to done my job many thanks 😊
That's all fine and well if they are interior walls. If they're exterior walls with blow-in insulation covered with plastic vapor barrier it gets a whole lot more difficult. It would also be nice if you showed how you fished the wire up into the existing box. I like the technique but in some walls it won't be that easy. I see I'm not the only one with this concern.
(Great video:) Same here. How did you fish the new wire into the existing box? Thanks...
I think it is easier to push the new wire from the existing box into the wall and fish it up to the new outlet hole before installing the new box.
kzhead.info/sun/obufdaWGkYGPhqM/bejne.htmlsi=vjsvPlQSpHb35Ire
I would love to see you do this project in an older house with plaster and lath walls.
That's not what he is showing how to do. On today's episode I'm going to show you how to build a small 2 room mother in law suite. Awwww man i would like to see him build a 20 high rise.......
I know that is why I would like to see it.
Ahhhhhhh I took your comment as the standard KZhead armchair quarter backing. Apologies you get a thumbs up lol
Love the wagu connectors! Saved my but on a smart switch install.
Good video and a great job explaining and showing us the example. Thank you
Its funny watching those videos as an European. Cardboard homes. Try doing that in here :P
Ik denk precies hetzelfde😂
Most Americans OWN their homes, while most Europeans rent.
Do all Americans have hollow walls like this? No wonder shit breaks with every big storm
Hey, I think it’s great that you’re considering hiding wires. However, it’s important to keep in mind that there are some safety concerns to be aware of. For example, if the new owner of the house replaces their baseboards and accidentally hits a live wire with a nail, it could be dangerous. So, it’s important to take the necessary precautions to ensure that the wires are safely hidden and out of harm’s way.
How do you protect the live wires installed behind the baseboard?
It's important to watch a video before critiquing it as well. He protects the cable and talks about the importance of it for like a minute, halfway through the video.
Very nice and neat work. Good idea and techniques. Thank you.
Nice video. Showing an easy.and effective way to hide the cords. Works great so long as the base boards are at least 3 1/2. Not a fan of the Wagos however. I have seen them.get.hot and melt causing fire hazard. Nothing works better than a properly sized and properly installed wire nut. Imo
I must be amazingly unlucky because EVERY time I run wires through a wall (which I've done many, many times), I encounter blocking between the studs. Funny how KZheadrs never seem to have that problem :-)
Most houses in the US built in the 90's and later won't have blocking. But if your house does then the only option is to locate the block and drill a hole through it just like he did across the studs. It will require a drywall patch and paint though :). And even worse than blocking... lathe and chicken wire instead of drywall :). I have family that live in a house built in the 60's and doing anything electrical in that house is a nightmare.
@@livens100 ALL of the houses around here (2000 on) do indeed have blocking in the walls. Must be a code requirement. I long ago bought a flexible installer's bit which has helped but not eliminated the need for drywall surgery. And, our prior house was a 1931 plaster and lathe beauty. Working on that one really helped build my vocabulary :-)