BMW E31 850i "Glacier" - Complete Restoration - Hydraulics/Mounts/Cooling - Episode 6
2020 ж. 19 Там.
17 710 Рет қаралды
In episode 6, I tackle the hydraulic pump and replace all the internal seals, before moving on to the heater valve and replacing all associated coolant hoses. The engine mounts also get replaced, along with the engine's coolant temperature sensors. All in a day's work!
Remind me of m539 Restorations🤔
M539 Vibes, keep it up !
Not tydeous at all Steve! This is actually what I prefer the most, to get to see every of your steps, the easier ones and the not so easy ones, all in detail. Thank you for sharing this project and keep up the nice work Sir!
Left side mount is broken and the right not is because of the engine torque rotation.
Great content, Steve! Love the videos. Another transplant over here from M539 Restorations. For future reference, god forbid you have to reseal another steering box, you might try a drag link socket to get those caps off. Google it if you are not sure what it is.
Great work. All those hose pipes looked like a nightmare, but you got it sorted. 👍
The oil leak attacked the rubber and destroyed the engine mount. That's how it happened only to the driver side mount. BTW the vise works alot better when bolted too the table. lol
That was such a quality content. Can't wait for more. Keep up the good work sir. 👍
great work, glad you got the pump sorted !
Fantastic video, glad to see you making progress!
Great in depth video Steve, looking forward to next instalment.
Well done Steve, waiting for next episode
Amazing video series. Thanks!
PS pumps are notorious for leaking, the Dumbbell and engine side gaskets are the usual culprits, good preventive maintenance. The filings could have been from breaking in from point of manufacture. The secret to the Large cross bolt is to use a wide face, hammer through, flat blade screwdriver (WERA makes the correct size that slots perfectly into the width of the cross on these screws) hold the tip of the screwdriver at 20 degrees to the screw head, then 2 strikes to the cap of the screwdriver with a metal face dead blow hammer and presto. Never use heat on these as it can expand the pinion gear shaft while it is dismantled. You will feel a massive difference in the box and on acceleration with the new mounts planting that beast of an engine. although those rubber hoses at the firewall look in good condition they are prone to failure and become a pig to find the culprit when they do fail, small water pump pliers and a twist will save you from skint knuckles It was a truss half coupler with hex bolt you needed to mount the aux water pump, if your ever back In there it’s just a plastic one. I wouldn’t worry about the vibrations as the pump was mounted directly. I like the attention to detail. 🏴
Great work. Always great to replace as many hoses as possible when doing any work. Generally best bang for buck you'll get for reliability
Great work Steve. Love watching these videos the detail and effort is admirable. Gary @ JKC
Thank Gary, be in touch soon!
Nice video and glad to hear the improved audio....cheers!
Turns out my headphones were turned up too high and my editor was down too low. :D
The thing with the engine mount and basically all rubber dampers is that they get a lot more work/force from the side of the road where it is not in as good a condition as towards the middle. So for you it's the left side, for normal side traffic the right ;)
I love that You show all the parts, even the clamps! :D
Delighted to see another episode! I wish you the best of luck with Corteco mounts, had mine fail within 5000km on my Mercedes. Only Lemforder for me from now on!
Yikes, hopefully these last longer!
Out of interest did you do a compression test on the engine before you tore into it?
i think the left engine mount was way worse in a condition, because it was deteriorated due to the amount of powersteering fluid that was on there..
Why didn't you clean the area under the engine mount before installing the new ones? ;-)
The reason one engine mount is worse than the other is all down to torque and the forces produced either clockwise or anti clockwise.
Great work Steve; cannot wait for the next episode! I have exactly the same color 1991 850i Auto and have, since March, been doing very similar maintenance. I struggle quite a bit to get spares. I saw the hydraulic filter cover on your video; please elaborate on the availability of those filters. Greetings from South Africa.
Hi Jannie, what filter cover do you mean?
Why didn't you replace the brake cylinder? You had it out, went thrue the trouble of rebuilding the power steering pump and said that the car wasn't braking great?
Yes indeed, the whole process is a balancing act. There are any number of things that can cause the bad brake feel, from the discs, pads, calipers, to the fluid, pressure accumulator or brake linkage. All of the above will be/has been replaced, if the braking is still bad, I will change the cylinder then. :)
@@stevesbmwbarn5706 I see. I have enjoyed the videos. 👍🏻
3:40 that engine lifting procedure looked very tenuous the brick could have let go at any moment!
Most likely the pentosin eroded the rubber on the left side.
Could you please write , partnumber of seals sets, for hydraulic pump? Thank you and good luck!
32411134836
Wouldn’t it have been better to take the engine out to do all this work?