The best Prusa MK3S 3D printer alternative? [test, compare, review]
Prusa MK3s Clone (Fysetc version): s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9H141D OR s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9fP8Jz
PETG 3D Printed Parts: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9gMEpF
Original Prusa MK3s: shop.prusa3d.com/#a_aid=Dombi3D
🧵Used Filaments for the test prints:
Blue PETG from Amazon (PAID LINK): geni.us/iviKsZ
Content:
0:00 Intro
0:48 Calibration
02:33 Heat up speed test
03:04 Cooldown test
03:19 Noise test (Use Headphones!)
05:49 Fan test
06:25 Safety features test
06:53 First test prints
07:16 Temperature tests
09:18 Conclusion
10:41 Extra prints
11:39 Other videos
⚙️ My other 3D printers:
Creality Ender-5 Plus: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_dU7...
Anet A6L: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_dVB...
Anycubic Photon: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_A4FOdL
🎥My Gear (Amazon PAID LINKS):
Main Cam - geni.us/3tcH8z
Secondary Cam - geni.us/aDwP0j
Thermal Cam - geni.us/guC9Ubl
50mm lens - geni.us/Vj4iB
24-70mm lens - geni.us/tBQA
Stable mini Tripod - geni.us/N8T4X
Main Tripod - geni.us/0MwSu
Mic - geni.us/50c0
Wireless Mic - geni.us/4gzJO3
Voice over mic - geni.us/k0yg7
#Prusa #Fysetc #3DPrinter
AFFILIATE LINK NOTICE
“As an Aliexpress Affiliate Program member I earn from qualifying purchases.”
“As an Amazon associate I earn from qualifying purchases.”
Thank you for the side by side comparison of the two printers.
Mad assembly skills there. Well, editing skills.
Many thanks! Perfect testing setup. Your results fits to our experiences with Prusa clones in our Maker space.
Thanks for this. This might be the thing that tips me over the edge.
Check out my other video also about the unboxing and assembly to get the full picture. I am also working on on the next video with IGUS and Misumi comparison and other upgrades for the clone.
Very professional test and nice editing! Thanks
I already have a resin printer but also wanted a FDM for larger prints and was thinking about the Prusa until I found this video. Thank you! I will be ordering it as soon as I have time to build it!
Hi, which one did you purchased?
Excellent job on the video. Organized perfectly
Suspect the faste fan makes the temp sensor have an offset on the clone. That would explain a lot of the things seen together with the voltage levels. Would be cool to see the voltage measured by a separate instrument.
Watching your content is very enjoyable, your profromance is outstanding
Cool review, thanks!
And to think just the other day I was thinking about getting another Prusa...but now I might two or three of these!! Tyvm. Sub’d.
Excellent work. Very thorough and informative. Would have liked to hear your conclusions on print quality a bit more in depth.
Nice explanation between the 2 printers, at home I have a MK3S and a mk2.5s printer. I was looking for some info of the fysect version but I couldn't get some clear answers until I stumbled upon this video ^^ good job!
I am currently working on the unboxing and assembly video. Stay tuned because I will give tips how could you build it even better than it comes with stock parts. I compared it with all stock parts build but new bearings and heatbrake would make it even better and safer.
superb comparisons, very well produced.
Great Video!! 👏🏻
I have this clone and its awesome.
Really this was an awesome video thank you so much Bro
can not decide which one to buy, so tempting!
Great comparison
Thanks for taking the time to make this available to the community.
thank you, well done .
That's great job thank you
Really interesting, thanks for taking the time to go into so much detail on the comparison of the two printers. Would you set up separate printing profiles for a clone printer, given the different nozzle temperatures?
Thanks, I plan to use a micro swiss HSS nozzle with it which needs normaly +10˘C because of the worse heat conductivity so I think it will balance that temperature difference, and so I can use the original printing profiles. When it not works out I ordered original thermistors which would eliminate this problem and give the right temperautre values.
Looks very similar. Very good test!
Glad to see your good results with your Fysetc clone, definitely a testamant to just how polished the MK3S is as a design. I own two clones, one from Trianglelab and another from Blurolls, as well as a genuine kit from Prusa Research. I am planning on adding at least a Fysetc one as well as a colored Sealand/Blurolls frame kit to my farm. Long as you understand that you may have to replace some parts on your own they'll assemble just fine. That said, if I hadn't bought my genuine Prusa first, I would've never known what to check for on my clones to make sure everything was being assembled correctly. Run Sunon fans if you can from the start and definitely just print the PETG parts yourself as even Prusa's own farm parts leave a bit to be desired. And if you can, do Paul's silicone bed mod to ensure a super flat bed, genuine or clone. It's basically the nylock mod but better. Also stock up on those POM/Delrin leadscrew nuts and linear bearings, especially the leadscrew nuts if you're prone to destroying them like me. In my experience I ended up liking my clones better just cause I knew what parts I was throwing into them and the fact support was on me. I also had a pretty bad experience with Prusa Support that led to me lone wolfing my genuine MK3S. My Trianglelab clone has more hours printing than even my genuine MK3S and I had the genuine one the longest so make of that what you will. I did hear the Fysetc clone ships with a PTFE 4.1 bore hotend which if that's the case is just plain stupid. I am running Trianglelab's pre assembled V6 clone specifically for the MK3S on all my kits and as far as I know they are all metal from factory. For those saying the clones rip off Prusa Research, well the design is open source and the license specifically allows clones like these to be sold legally. Overall, great video and I am interested to see if you'll be reviewing the Bear frame clones or other vendor's clone kits such as Trianglelab and Blurolls/Sealand in the future!
You made me curious with this bed "Paul's silicone bed mod" where can I find info about it?
@@Dombi3D github.com/PaulGameDev/PrusaMK3_Silicone_Leveling/blob/master/PrusaMK3_Silicone-Leveling-Jig-ThinBlade.stl forum.prusaprinters.org/forum/user-mods-octoprint-enclosures-nozzles/prusa-mini-silicone-bed-leveling-mod/ For the jig and a comparable guide except done on a Prusa mini, process is very similar to doing the nylock mod though on the MK3S. I don't think he's finished the guide yet but it installs similarly like the famous nylock mod. Only difference is you cut 3mm ID 7-8mm OD silicone car vacuum tubing to act as the new standoffs. Basically take off the bed, remove all the metal spacers except the one in the middle and replace them with the tubing cut with the jig. Carefully reassemble the bed so that it's being screwed in evenly and the silicone is compressed to the height of the old spacers. Once that is done fire up octoprint or pronterface and run G80, let that finish probing and then run G81 to get the absolute values. Once that is done throw the values in to this site pcboy.github.io/g81_relative/ and it'll convert it and tell you which screws to turn to raise or lower the bed. Once you get it to about 0.05 deviation you can start to level it at the bed temps you normally print at to get it super flat. When it gets to about 0.02-0.03 deviation it's good enough and the PINDA will take care of any remaining deviation. Paul recommends releveling after a week to account for the silicone settling in. Having done it to one of my clones I can honestly say it's worth the trouble but if your leveling is fine with the metal spacers I wouldn't mess with it. Sorry for the long write up and if anything is unclear. Paul is active on discord, mainly Prusa's and 602 and if you need more info I can link you to those servers.
Thanks for the explanation. It looks really interesting. I have the feeling that the normal nylock mod is more stable but maybe I will give a try to this version also.
@@Dombi3D No problem! And that would be awesome if you ended up trying both mods!
Very professional!
Great video. I have ordered the clone mini and it’s fantastic. Prusa mini original will arrive in December. Prusa mk3s bear clone will arrive next week.
And what are your experiences with the clone. Did everything work?
which mk3s bear clone did you get, are you happy with it?
@@rabenklang7 Fystec. It´s ok. I have a few issues, but i can work around it. It´s just the selfcalibration which does not work completely correct. But i guess its because i upgraded to linearrails
Great, easy to understand video. I a a subscriber now.
merci pour la vidéo , au top !!!!!!!
Outstanding video. I wish it had existed when I originally purchased a clone from Fysetc. I later bought an MK3s kit from Prusa. The clone has worked fine, but the assembly was challenging. Too many of some screws and nuts, not enough of others, no 3mm filament for the extruder cable support, a few other things that I have long since forgotten about. Both of my printers get used a lot. If I prorate the additional cost of the Prusa against the savings for the clone - especially after the E3D hotend and fan upgrade, the savings in price is negligible. I completely agree. If this is your first build and you can afford it, buy a Prusa. You won't 2nd guess your decision later.
I know several people with clones, worked perfectly fine and saved a lot of money. Prusas are just way over expensive, and the myth how they are perfect is simply wrong. There are plenty of people with issues on their prusas.
This is awesome video. Well done. Being a year later, I got to ask. Have you kept using both printers? If so how have they both held up? I am strongly considering getting the clone to add to my collection.
Been using a FYSTEC clone for 3 years now, no issues. The only parts that died were the PINDA probe, extruder heat cartridge and thermosistor.
The quality of this video is excellent, it's exactly the comparison I was looking for but I did not expect one so well made. It is clear, goes in depth, no annoying/unnecessary parts and a great chapter system. I will for sure check out the rest of your channel, keep making great video :) !
These videos are excellent. They are concise and focus on the things that matter. I'm disappointed you haven't followed up as you mentioned, such as with the results of replacing the bearings. I'm going to try a FYSETC clone and the main thing I'm concerned with is which components I should replace at the start. I'd also be interested in knowing if the FYSETC kits have changed over the last year or two.
I have a second video about this topic. The bearings related I have not managed to publish, but I am using on Z axis IGUS polymer bearings and on the X and Y IKO Japan bearings. I have even posted links in the description. Since then, I have no purchased new modules, so I can not tell you how their quality changed.
Thank you.
thk for your video ;)
@dombi3d First of all, thanks for your awesome Video! One question: can you tell me if the print after power loss feature is working on your clone?
Yes it does. As you can see at 6:40, it goes to home and continue printing (I just cut the warm up cycle out from the video). You can read the LCD bottom line that both printer writes "Recovering print".
Since then I have just found out that there is a hidden easter-egg "Experimental" menu in the new Prusa 3.9.1 Firmware where you can set up an "ALTFAN" (alternative fan option, because of the Noctua supply shortage the original Prusa had to deliver 3D printers with other fans also) which slows down the nozzle fan RPM and at the same time it makes the 3D printer more quiet. I will make a short video about it, but you can also try it out when you go under Settings -> HW setup and roll down to the bottom and push the knob around 3s. After it the new menu will pop up at the very bottom. Could be that it wont make any change first just after you restarted the printer. Tell me if you managed it.
Will slow down the fan RPM. That means there will be less cooling? Or is this option for the Clone with 3000rpm more in your Video?
@@extrutim This option is good for 3 wire fans for the Clone to make it more silent.
We can try that feature to clone prusa with out heat problems?
@@gorilasfpv4600 I have not tried yet but seems OK for me.
I recently bought the Fysetc clone and tried the altfan option. It reduced the speed from around 7200 to 2800, which is even 1200rpm lower than the original noctua one. Combined with the seemingly lower efficiency, I think this might possibly lead to the heatcreep issue territory.
Hi, many thanks for your work. Your video helps very well. Unfortunatly the coupon code ist not runnig :-(
Good job
Nice video
I jumped to conclusion 🤪
This vid convinced me to buy the Fysetc! Great vid. Question: Where did you get the temp tester unit?
How has your Fysetc kit been? I'm super interested in getting one myself too!
@@sirmeta8538 Didn't end up going one of these. Ended up building a Voron 2.4
I don't mind paying for more for an original prusa. But man their lead times are horrible. If you want to pay more you expect great service but also decent shipping times. Your review makes it tempting to go for such a clone.
Awsome video Dombi, very thought trough one and highly informative as well. Might be a silly question but what type of kit did you order the "Clone MK3S kit" or the "Clone MK3S bear kit"?
Thanks! The simple one. The bear version comes with an aluminium extrusion frame which is theoretically more stiffer but I had no problem with the original concept so I stayed with it. Bear kit needs also different 3d printed parts and I found more handy to print out the original parts.
@@Dombi3D Thank you for the answer, really like your other informative videos too! Atom jó és hasznos videók, végre egy informatív és hasznos csatorna a sok béna magyar között! :)
@@Dombi3D So the kit comes without the plastic parts, I assume. But: Which other parts are missing in the kit for a full printer? Ty!
@@elmariachi5133 Check out my other unboxing video. You will see what is in the box exactly and which upgrades do I recommend.
@@Dombi3D Thanks!
Very nice Video, wich filament did you use for the blue parts?
Filament PM PETG, I put its link into the description.
Gr8 video
Thanks for this video, i buy today clone from Fysetc - MK3S Bear Kit 🤪.
What parts did you print? I think the bear kit uses different parts?
Where may I find a detailed step by step video on wiring and connecting the clone einsy motherboard?
it is the same as the original, you can follow the original instructions
Very nice comparison ! How did you get the blue color did you printed it ?
It is a clone. Fysetc Prusa MK3s Clone.
This clone kit cames without the printed parts and I printed them for it, that is why the different colour. In my next video I will show you that.
Hi, what firmware version are you running? I updated to the latest MK3S firmware and the filament sensor has stopped working. If I use a different firmware (like the one for the MK3) it recognises the sensor and works ok but at the same time it's not the correct firmware. Thanks
on my fysetc clone the z frame was bend around 6mm forward, and the LCD was defekt. replacing was additional 70€. Had to get the bearframe. A solid "meh".
Something that would be interesting, is if you would be willing to try to exchange just, oh, the fan and the hotend? It kindof looks a lot like they have the wrong thermistor values, and that the rpm sensor for the hotend cooling fan is missing. It's pretty cheap, and would be an interesting topic. I am waiting for my own clone (already own one original mk3) from another brand, so I am pretty excited to see just what I need to replace to get it to that point. Hats of to Prusa for making all the plans available and the design robust enough for a clone to be viable even with suboptimal parts! :)
For the fan the ALTFAN solution works, I will show it in my next video, For the thermistor a change would probably solve this issue, but first I will try out how is it with the HSS nozzle works, maybe it would fit perfectly because of its lower heat conductivity it needs normaly plusz 10-15°C over brass ones but the clone is already that much hoter. We will see.
How does the fytec texture build plate compare to the genuine? Is the thickness the same?
teach me the "clap" assembling :) hehe
Just follow along with the video...
I came to the same result as you. I did the following changes to the clone: 1. original PRUSA fans 2. Original PRUSA Hotend (E3D V6) 3. Original steel sheets (smooth/coated) everything else remained untouched. Print results are equal as you mentioned. But for unknown reason, if I need something, I always start the original PRUSA, I don't know why, but I do :-)
A complete hotend is not needed - I only changed the heatbreak to an e3d PE (for potentially adding an MMU2s) and the thermistor to the Prusa one. The nozzle is also changed to a higher quality on, non-abrasive. For the PEI powdercoated sheet - of course ;-) It is definitly the best. The smooth one - my original smooth sheet is in its original package for more than 2 years now... The fans of my original prusa I changed end of last year - fans are not for eternaty anyways. So I keep the ones from the clone until they need a change anyway. But there is one change I strictly recommend: Replace the spacers of the bed (exept the one in the middle as reference) and use nylock nuts for the other eight screws instead of spacers. So you can manual level the bed using octoprint. I normaly do not use octopint (I installed it on a normal PC only for calibrating bed). With an improved manualy leveled bed, the first layer is improved a lot.
@@oleurgast730 actually, all my 6 printers got E3DV6 hotends, so I had them „in stock“. if they are assambled as intructed by E3D WIKI, they never ever make trouble. At least for the last 6 years
@@frankvonthienen3862 Of course the do not make trouble - but there are two versions. The heatbreak for Prusa has a special design, to form the tip. The normal e3d hotends do not have it. You mostly will not have any problems, exept if you add an MMU2. But you won't have problems with the cloned hotend either, if you only change the heatbreak to an e3d heatbreak in PrusaEdition.
You have deserved a like I RESPECT KZheadRS WHO PURCHASE THE ITEMS THEMSELF just one thing i do not understand what this item is different from the others concerning price i much higher then the other options 3d printers
Thanks! If you mean other brand printers, then simple the reliability and printing quality which makes the difference for me.
Do you have a link to the fan power measurement tool to test the pressure of the different fans?
Just search for anemometer! Pretty sure that you will find one!
I bought this clone in november from Spain. Bearings were fine, didnt need to adjust eSteps, Temps were fine too. LCD cables were also the right way around. The only problem i had was that the Z-Motor cables seemed to be wired wrong, so that when plugged in the only way they go, the motors turned the wrong way so that the z axis would move in different directions. I needed to cut the clip of one of the motor plugs, turn it 180 degrees and connect it back. But be aware that it is now possible that both motors spin down when they are supposed to go up, in this case you need to flip both cables. Otherwise this clone is perfect and i didnt notice any difference to my original prusa mk3s.
Interesting. Seems like random issues come up. That is the cost of quality control, but advanced users like you can handle such problems. Good job.
you can configure motor pins in the firmware without swapping wires. Its standard procedure for dit printers, i guess the manufacturer just assumed the users knows how
I bought one of these instead of the trianglelabs one thanks to this video.I just finished the assembly today with my own printed parts in PLA exept for the extruder and the board case wich are PETG. Definitelly buy your own M3 *8mm screws, this is NOT OPTIONAL. I almost ruin the Z motors because of that. The bearings I got were fine but you might get bad ones. It worked perfectly once assembled, didnt even got that weird upside down LCD cable problems. I didnt even needed to calibrate ther machine, not even the ESteps. I already have an Original prusa mini and print quality is identical. Honestly, its a great machine, I didnt expect it to work so well. Also is my first printer kit and it was super fun to build.
I had the same feeling :) That is why I bought 6 more :) IKO bearings have arrived today. So I will be not bored in the next weeks.
@@Dombi3D How many IKO bearings did you have to order?
@@WrathOfVaz min 6 (3 X-axis, 3 Y-axis) max 10 (+4 for Z-axis) for each printer.
How much print time did you have on the Prusa before you purchased the clone and did the test? I hear issues that sound like bearing issues associated with not being lubed sufficiently on the Prusa.
I had around 1000 hours in my original Prusa at that time. I am using silicone lube for the bearings.
Hi! Where can i find the blue PETG 3D Printed Parts for the prusa like yours?
Hi, I printed it with my original Prusa. I am working on my 3D printing farm so I could also print for demand but it is not so pretty yet. However it works but I need to adjust the price calculation. If you interested: www.dombi3d.de
The only thing on my bear i3 mk3s clone that is as on the original is the BT gears I found after well over 3000h printing that my triangleab ones liked to chew through filament way too much, but still was good for the 1st few hundred hours i print only with PETG, whereas the BT gears have been shaped correctly and hardened.
I do not know yet the long term quality of the clone but I had no issues till now after 2.5 kg PETG. The new ones I build more robust (misumi/IGUS bearings, Micro Swiss full metal heatbrake and HSS nozzle, Nylock mod, Gates belt). I think they will hold for a while. We will see.
@@Dombi3D what hotend did it come with?
Any update on your clone? Is it still working and how has it faired compared to the original since you have been using it?
You can watch my other videos, I am using them continuously without an issue, only thing that need to be calibrated is the temperature differences, but I think it is the same by original printers also.
Its an interesting video. I suppose one could argue the Prusa has better customer service and you are also paying for that or Prusa is charging for it? The nice thing about clones is that they help keep competition healthy and pricing from going through the roof if the product is good.
Prusa of course does not charge for customer service and it's really helpful if you are a 3d printer noob. They assist you in the whole build process if you need them
One important thing you pay for is the research and inventing Prusa is doing. If you buy cheap clones, you are taking away from that money pool.
@@ulaB while this is true, I don't think there is something wrong ethically by buying cheap clones. Prusa is open-sourcing their printers and everyone has the right to manufacture their own clones. I would even argue that these cheap clones are part of what Josef Prusa wants. Prusa wants everyone to have a 3d printer and this here basically is an affordable, very good 3D printer you can buy, if you don't have the money to buy a Prusa. If you have enough money, I think most people would happily go with the Prusa because they know that they will get quality from Prusa that they might not get from cheap clones.
@@doktormerlin I agree completely. I have been in the situation where I was not able to buy "the original" and got cloned parts instead. I was just stating another reason people always forget, besides support and quality :).
I bought a Prusa kit recently and it's a fantastic printer. It was more expensive than these clones and competitors like Ender 3, but the overall package is just superior to the others. Plus, it's not made in China.
What are the filament cases you are using (as in the sound test)?
My own design. Check out my channel there is a video about it also. ;)
Agent Smith of 3D printers? You remind me of Hugo Weaving in 1st Matrix movie 😎
I'm skeptical about those temp readings being accurate.
i always thought the Prusa i3s were open source so theres no clones or fakes. i built my prusa i3 MK3s from parts i sourced from the internet no kit, and it works just as good as one built by Prusa
What is the brand of your Stepper motors? I just built the BluRoll kit and my belt tension is super high 160's and even with a very loose belt will not get to the 200's. After some searching, some mentioned it might be a voltage issue with the steppers or resistance with the bearings. This is my first printer but the bearings seem to be moving well. Any suggestions?
I used the motors which were in the package. Both X and Y has this problem? I do not know the BluRoll kit.
@@Dombi3D Yes. My Y is better 173 and my X is 164. The prints have been good but crash detection must be off.
@@dr3wst3r1 The good point in this that if the bearings are little bit tighter than it wont make so much ghosting. Crash detection is a nice feature but it was triggered till now once for me during a 2km filament print time so I would say it is not a big lost.
So, if I understand correctly, the only real problem is the nozzle cooling fan. Is this responsible for the high temperatures? Could the quick fix be to replace that fan with one like in the original Prusa? What parts 'need' to be modded/replaced to make it really trouble-free? Great review by the way. I'm always a bit afraid of clone machines from China. Sometimes they cut too many corners, because the person making the clone doesn't really understand why the OEM choose certain parts. This one seems to be made with a bit more effort, judging by the results.
The high temperature is caused by the different thermistor type. If you want to get rid of it I would buy the original e3d thermistor because that is what programmed by the EinsyBoard. (they have probably little bit different voltage levels for different temperautres). The nozzle cooling fan just helps you to cool back the material over the melting zone to keep the filament solid on the top part of the heatbreak. I made another video also on this topic where I speak about the upgrade parts. Check it out.
@@Dombi3D thanks! I saw the other video a bit later with the listing of the upgrade parts. Good job! Will surely consider it. Very helpful, thanks!
One question, how is the clone performing with other more demanding filaments, like ABS/ASA, Nylon, etc. That's where the prusa normally works better than the other choices in the market...
I printed ASA and ABS with it with no issues. (With full metal hotend)
Has anyone tried this printer with the new Co Print Multi-Filament?
que pavada, igualmente buen video!
For the clone, which manual to I use for the assembly?
The same as the original.
you can install the "multi material 2s" unit on the clone ?
You need to change the heat brake for the original prusa version, but theoretically yes. There is also a clone mmu2s set I just got it yesterday, now printing the parts for it and I will make a video about it also.
@@Dombi3D perfect, we look forward to the new video 😊
after all this time ive only just known what that hole is for in the benchy lol
Does anyone know if the driver board will accept the Raspberry Pi Zero W board that Prusa is compatible with? Does it have the correct connector?
Hi, It is 1:1 copy of the Einsy board, so I would say yes. The connector at least is there.
@@Dombi3D Thanks! I'm thinking of running Octoprint.
Sorry, you missed the most impotant security issue on the clone. Fysetc uses a 4.1 bore heatbreak, so the tube inside the hotend contacts the nozzle. This is extremly dangerous, as the original Prusa has an all-metal heatbreak - so Prusas firmware allows up to 295°C mozzle temp - a temperature where PTFE already degrades into toxid fumes. Simply one wrong click (preheat accidently for Polycarbonate in the menu) needed... So never ever use the heatbreak delivered with the kit. Always order an all-metal heatbreak - and use it instead of the 4.1bore one. Of course you can alternativly change the firmware (but if next upgrade from Prusa comes, do not forget modifying it again). (Same problem with the Prusa Mini Clone by Fysetc, by the way - I recommend the Bondtech heatbreak there) Of course, if you plan on adding an MMU2s / MMU2s-Clone later, you should buy an e3d heatbreak in Prusa Edition (has a special inside design for forming the filament-tip on unload) anyway. For the nozzle temperature: Thermistors have variations. You simply might change the thermistor to one bought by Prusa, as they have quality-checked the tollerance. Esp. if you have an original Prusa, you do not need different slicer settings for Original and Clone than. I like the Fysetc mk3s Clone a lot. Have two of them (and a selfmade clone and one original). Using the right e3d heatbreak and thermistor, all have same print quality on same settings. As Aliexpress has a "sale" about every 2 months, with collecting coins and coupons you can get the clone at extremly low prices. I payed 283€ for the Fysetc clone about 10 weeks ago (and 173€ for a Prusa Mini clone, by the way), using a lot of coupons. Even with buing an original e3d PE heatbreak, original thermistor, noctua fan, original PINDA (if you have problemes as I had on one of my clones), original Prusa PEI powdercoated spring steel (alltogether about 100€) and cost for the filament to print the parts you have a very low price under 400€ (including shipping and tax in Europe) compared to the about 800€ (incl. shipping) for the original Prusa mk3s - and get a clone practical identical to the original (exept for the capacitors inside the power supply). But in most cases, only the e3d PE heatbreak and thermistor (you can get them on 3djake for lower cost than directly from Prusa) and a cloned PEI powder coated sheet (from Aliexpress/Trianglelab, practicly identical in function and texture to the original) will be necassary (about 50€ altogether). In my case, only problem with cloned PINDA was auto-skrew-compensation did not work. But it is not necassary, as the mk3(s) do not need it - it was put into firmware for the mk2 with its sloppy frame. At the last sale also the bear edition was available from Fystec on Aliexpress. In Europe from European warehouse about 310€ (shipping and coupons compensated each other). With a much better frame for only 30€ more it realy a catch (normaly, the bear is an upgrade costing about 80-100€).
Thank you for your detailed comment, I planed to post today the unboxing and assembly related video but I think I will add your 4.1 bore heatbreak issue in this video because it seems a critical one that I not realized by myself.
Link to the cloned PEI power coated sheet?
@@UnrealApe de.aliexpress.com/item/33007698084.html At the moment there is no sale, so it cost a little more ( 27,35 - 2*1,75€ Coupons). You might wait for next sale (I think it will be black friday/cyber monday) to get down to 20€ or less. Or: de.aliexpress.com/item/1005001408986571.html about 18€. Its only one sided. But if you damage one side, by my experience the other side is not optimal flat in most cases anymore - so being one sided is no problem. They also have a version one side PEI powder coated and one smooth: de.aliexpress.com/item/4000137298652.html Do not forget to calibrate the PINDA Probe. Temperaturecalibration is quite necessary. I damaged one of my PEI powder coated beds after an temperature drop of 15°C in the envirement, starting a print a morning after having open the windows over night. Without PINDA being calibrated, the distance was leveled to low and the filament was pressed to much into the plate. Also I recommend doing a manual bed leveling (there is a octoprint plugin. You replace 8 of the spacers by screwing the screws with a locknut to the heated bed and screw them into the carrier directly (but of course by eyesight same distance as the spacer would do). Then octoprint does ABL and read measuring results and show you, how much to turn witch screw in witch direction to make the bed as flat as possible.
Having an issue with my Fystec. The new firmware is nonresponsive. I had to downgrade to the last firmware. Is there a fix?
Which Firmware ? I have updated all of my printers to the 3.10.0 version and they are working fine.
What you fysetc clone mk3s einsy rambo version ?
1.0a as far as I remember
putting the microphone on opposite sides should make quite a difference! original: away from motor and hotend fan clone: towards motor and hotend fan otherwise great overview, thank you!
After three 3DBenchies, my printer has stopped completely. I suspect that the extruder is completely clogged, and I don't know what to do. I try to insert the filament, but after a little while it just stops and starts to jump on the extruder gears.
Have you changed the hestbreak to the full metal Version?
@@Dombi3D ... no :) I’ll get a full metal heatbreak, I’ve got a MK2 heatsink spare laying around and a proper E3D nozzle. If it works, I’ll paypal you a cookie! Have a subscribe in the meantime.
@@Dombi3D Following has been done so far: - Genuine MISUMI bearings - Genuine MK3s+ upgrade - Genuine heatblock, nozzle, heatsink and heatbreak - Genuine removable heatbed At this point it’s working like it should. I’m still 150-200$ under the price of what a new Prusa costs. Had I know that, I would probably not bought a clone to begin with. To pay respect to Prusa, I’ve bought filament and parts from them, as well as a spanking new genuine Mini+ that should arrive within the next month or so.
Are these clones close enough that an MMU2 could be added to them?
Yes they are, I am just sat down to order one MMU2S clone also to check what they can do. Probably will be another video topic. PS.: Nice to see your comment here :)
@@Dombi3D Wait, there's MMU2S clones? Man, that seems like a bad idea... and I kinda want to do it.
Under my first link you can choose that option also :) I have also some doubts, but I like experimenting. However it will be probably challanging because the original prusa uses a special heatbrake (at the melt zone it has 2 mm diameter instead of 2.2 mm) for the MMU2S setup, but if I can not make it work without it then I just order that part later.
i have problem whit Einsy-base and heatsink of board... they collapse...what your solution?
I did not used the motor driver heatsinks, on the original one was also none of them.
@@Dombi3D now i have print the old stile box for einsy..whitout support for raspberry zero... and i wait the iko bearing from courier before finish all assembly...
4:05 Dancing intensifies
XD
Well that sure stuffs it to the crazy Prusa prices eh? :-)
OMG is that what the hole on the back of the benchy is for!?
$100 shipping fee to Canada for the clone. Awesome.
Eh, I see it as Prusa gives so much back to the community so I'd rather support them over a Chinese company pumping out clones with no innovation.
Yea and all their software they develop, the filament they make, paying their employees first world wages and having 24/7 support.
what we need now are mmu clones :-D
That is also available! Check out the first link in the description. Maybe will try it also and post another video of it in the future.
@@Dombi3D wow thanks
all clones have 10 centigrades of difference whit the original in the hotend?
Because of the different thermistor that they use probably yes. If precise tenperature required, I recommend to buy the original e3d thermistor.
Why are the bed and extruder banging against the frame??? That cant be good right? Even if it is for calibration things will break if you keep on doing that?!
That is normal. Prusa has no end switches, they measure the current from the TMC motor drivers and when it hits the frame the current goes up and they know that there is the end. It is a pretty smart solution!
@@Dombi3D Yea but wont this damage the frame or components over time? It seemd to be banging it pritty hard :P
@@wouter8596 it will not damage it
You used the original bed to calibrate the clone?
Yes, because the bed which came with the clone was not assembled at that time and I also printed on the clone new clone parts and I wanted to get the same texture. I purchased some clone PEI powder coated spring steel sheets also, but not tested yet.
@@Dombi3D How does the clone's bed compare to the real stuff? And the Z probe?
@@NicksStuff Z probe works fine, the clone comes with a smooth PEI sheet and I am working always with the powder coated one, so not tested yet the one which comes in the package.
@@Dombi3D So the clone isn't able to check its geometry the way the real one is?
@@NicksStuff It is able to check that, as I made the first calibration also on the video you can see that it checks everything and tells if something not parallel etc.
About 400.00 US with shipping for Clone without printed parts just an F.Y.I as of 10/5/21
Yeah the new shipping rules with extra tax changed the way of thinking about ordering from China. However some of their stores has warehouses in EU or USA to avoid those extra costs, but they have to fill up that warehouses also somehow, so at the end the customer has to pay for the extra costs. By the way with 400 USD is still a much cheaper alternative as the original one. 300 USD is a lot of money for most of us.
I ve bought and assembled myself the Clone and when i first tested it it was great. But when i tried to update the Firmware i got an error and on the Printer Screen it said that the External SPI flash W25X20CL isnt responding and now the printer also resets itself when i try to heat the bed. Maybe (hopefully) someone else had similar issues and knows any solutions to try?
Which firmware version have you installed? Have you tried to install another version also?
@@Dombi3D i installed the newest for the Mk3s downloaded from the Prusa Website. I also tried the version that you installed in your Video and the version the Printer came with
@@Dombi3D A little Update: The Reset was caused by the Steel sheet for some weird reason :/ I rearanged it and it worked again, but updating the Firmware still leads to the error message.
@@jan5549 in next step I would try to flash the firmware from an SD card. Maybe the USB communication corrupted over time.
@@Dombi3D Thank you for your help i will try that :D I Actually noticed that the firmware i tried to flash seemed to apply, at least when i check the version in the Support section. But i dont know if there is a feature that i can test which would confirm definitely that the new Firmware Version apllied.
you didn't talk about the build... the prusa took me 8.5 hours while a fulgertech 2020 took 19 hours... the prusa took another 1-2 hours to set up and calibrate while the fulgertec took days and days ... and works but never worked anywhere near as well as the prusa. I just got my prusa but I say it is worth every penny!
I have another video also where I speak about these aspects. Check out on my channel!
Is it compatible with mmu2s
Yes it is. MMU2S clone also exists
How you tried the mmu2s clone?
Not yet. I have it though just not managed to assembly yet. Future video material.
@@Dombi3D nice looking forward to that video
How can a clone still sport an original Prusa nameplate?
I have just painted the Prusa text and not the original because of it.
The frame of Fysetc-Clone does not have the "Prusa" sign on the top. The plastc parts you print yourself. The mk3s is fully open-source, so you get the full design including the STL with "Original Prusa" from github and from the prusa site. But there are also stl with blank display cases available. Also with Prusa Slicer it is quite easy to remove the "Original" and emboss a "Cloned" instead. I did this on my 3 Prusa Mini (but not on my mk3s clones now). But anyway: There is a line above the "original". Mathematicly a line about something is a logical "NOT". So Prusa´s original design of the "Original Prusa" display actually says "NOT original Prusa" to all mathematicans and engeneers... So actually the clone is labeled correct and the original is labeled wrong from factory ;-)
You’re not supposed to do that calibration with the spring steel sheet on