The oil pump is the most universal but least technically explored part in the world of cars.
Here's a breakdown of how a typical gerotor pump works, a breakdown of its parts, and how and why they go bad.
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#oil #engines #oilpump
It totally baffles me how you are able to make videos that are so simple about common things like oil pumps that nobody else talks or writes about. Easily my most valued subscription.
I’ve looked and always wondered how an oil pump works and what makes one high volume. Thank you for the information. Most deff appreciate you taking the time to put out good information.
A High volume oil pump puts out more volume than a standard oil pump. For example a small block Chevy HV pump will pump about 25% more oil than a standard Volume. If the engine can't take the excess volume it just bleeds off the excess in a bypass. Also take a bit more HP to turn them, as the gears are taller which is how they pump more volume.
Ok I miss read your post "I always wondered what..." Thought you asked what made one HV.
You should see how a dual stage pump works. Most engines made in the last 5 years can change volume and pressure when commanded to by the PCM. 7-10 psi at idle and 70-100 at redline. Great for fuel economy as a fluid pump creates alot of parasitic drag on an engine. Which is why pretty much all new cars use electric steering racks and variable oil pumps.
So did I
Volume is longer gears, pressure is stronger spring
In my case, the stuck bypass valve in the oil pump, caused massive spike in oil pressure, so it searched for the next weak link - namely the oil filter gasket. At first I tought it was a faulty oil filter, but after third one, I figured that something is wrong. After I took the pump apart, the clearences were spot on, just the valve would not budge.
In one of my builds I had installed 4 high vol/pressure pumps. In each case I had good pressure for about 2 minutes then pressure fell off. At that point I was thinking I had internal engine issues. Pulled the engine built another and inspected the old engine to find no issues. Turns out stuck bypass now I just assume the pump has to be serviced before installing.
This particular circumstance is specifically mentioned in oil filter catalogs (CarQuest at least)
Did your filter blow like a beer can?
@@alanmeyers3957 Nah, it wasn't that bad, but the oil was everywhere in the engine bay. Not to mention the pavement around my car.
YES!!!! I for one prefer these basic tech vids over the stuff like economy or trivia. More please!
Yep! and Let the JunkYard Jet Guy's Do their own thing. If Your not building it, we don't care.
Wierd that I’m making an oil pump for my model engine and this pops up. I’m glad that I watched this because I never thought about a much-needed bypass. Thanks Tony you are the man.
There are some early (60s Buicks for one) engines that do require the oil pump to be packed to avoid a dry start after a rebuild. They will hold prime after that though.
70's 350 Buick engines need the oil pump primed when new gears have been installed brand new too.
Perhaps dose them with, say, a teaspoon of straight 50 (or higher weight) oil?
same with AMC v8's. Those are external pumps, and they are not gerotor (sp?) pumps. I know from experience that AMC pumps are just 2 gears. I was told to use vaseline in them
@@bigassfordsd Ya, I think that's what the Buicks are, Oldsmobile too. Gear pumps not 'gerotor'.
Yup... been there... had a used pump (on that Buick V-8) would not re-prime with oil! Had to be primed with petroleum jelly. Lesson learned.
As a younger guy that didn’t get the opportunity to grow up around these old school vehicles these videos are honestly really very helpful
As one of the newbies, I LOVE this type of video. Good to see you throwing one in now and then like you did in your early days. Oh, and bring back the stunt carb!!!
Love the info uncle Tony. I watch all the time, like a lot of videos, but I dont comment often. I appreciate everything you share with us.
Never worked on a automotive pump but learned in my old harley...this new channel that your doing with bikes is gonna be a hit I can feel it..cant wait. Good info
I soaked in Deep Purple for a few hours when I was a kid. I was never the same again
These type of videos are my absolute favorite... solid information that helps us all out so much, thanks!!
Thank you uncle tony, for passing along all this knowledge!
Appreciate your time in making these videos. Your experience shows.
Everybody needs to watch this video! thank you for clearing up the confusion between the standard volume, high volume, and high pressure pumps! there's an age old confusion associated with em. Great video as always!
Thanks Tony. You are possibly the only and definitely the first I've seen to explain auto oil pumps. Now I know!
I feel obligated to make a comment about this for the Oldsmobile guys. If you are building the latr Olds big blocks, 425/455, please keep in mind they were designed to run at what is considered a low RPM now days. People will say Olds have oiling issues. What actually happens in the drainback is too slow. Many times, people will do tings to allow these engines to spin faster. The average engine builder will also recommend a higher volume pump, which they do for everything really. Unfortunately, with the way the Olds oil passages are, it is possible the combination of a higher RPM and a higher volume pump will pump the pan empty and the oil will all be up in the valvetrain trying to make it's way back to the pan. This isn;t super common, but I have heard about this happening to people, where their barnd new rebuilt HiPo 455 had an oiling issue and had a break down. When they look into it, they can;t find anything wrong with the pan, pick up, or oil pump. I am pretty sure Dr. Olds himself has some videos on youtube about it, he devised some modifications to help with the oiling design of the Olds BB. Long story short: Olds guys, do your homework before deciding on a combo for your BB! Sometimes the high volume pump is worse!
Great videos, really like the technical ones, but getting back to the basics are helpful, in remembering stuff and even learning a different way. Keep them coming.
These kinds of videos are very informative, hope to see more like this. Once again, you have shown me things that I did not know. Thank you.
One of the most informative videos I've ever watched.
You’re always such a great teacher every time I watch your video. I never have any questions. Good job.
As simple as the oil pump is , this was still very informative Thanks UT.
Thank you for this video. I understand now a whole lot better how they work.
Thanks for this. It’s just what I needed.
Excellent lesson Uncle Tony. Cheers & stay safe guys😊
Awesome video. Finally got me to understand oil pumps and is knowledge useful on nearly all cars
Thank you uncle Tony a very educational video on oil pumps you have an old school of knowledge.🇺🇲🚗🚙
Thanks UTG, great tutorial on oil pumps.
Gasket! So key to keep in mind! 👍👍 Thank you, Uncle T 🙂
These simple tech videos are fantastic for the newbie building their first motor in the back shed component by component. I would love to see a complete playlist of each component breakdown and explanation working towards a complete build.
Very well put together 👍🏼 Appreciate it boss
Actually the Rover V8 was known as an engine that needed the pump packed or it doomsday, it would never prime. Even an oil change, swap the filter first then drop the oil. The problem could even occur if the vehicle had been sitting a longtime. I had in the past used a pressure sprayer hooked up to oil pressure fitting to prime them. Sure someone will mention other Buicks that were similar. Incidentally never seen issues with the Vasaline, but like I mentioned, you can use a pressure sprayer.
The rover v8 and Buick V8s are closely related if you know your auto history. Might explain some of that
@@wobbles7915 Correct. I had a Rover SD1 V8 in my Toyota Celica and I purchased a manual which stated that Rover V8 is based Buick.
Is the Rove a gear pump or the type shown here.
@@wobbles7915 Buick 215.
@@mpetersen6 Gear.
Another solid video Uncle T! I soak up this knowledge like a spongie!
Great Video exactly what we need more of the basic engine parts and how the work and how to fix them
Great job Uncle Tony.
holy cow, I actually never knew all this about oil pumps. I never had to change one out before. Man this was so informative. THANK YOU. I love learning. Trying to prepare for someday building me a vehicle.
Forty plus years and he is Right on in all the engines I have worked on at the dealership and at home, Great gob! some one had to do it just keep it up Thank You!!
Love the basics...thanks much!
Thanks- I learned a lot.
Good info Unk. I had a bypass valve stuck shut on a hi volume pump. On a cold start the oil preasure was 80 at idle and if you started to drive right away there would be a permanent bulge in the oil filter
Excellent and informative video Tony .. Thank you. 👍
thank you! i always learn something useful from you
wow I learned what I needed to know about the oil pumps, thank you Tony !
Melling is the only brand of oil pump i use in engine rebuilds and never had an issue.I do mostly fords and the drive shafts are so flimsy,always replace them with a Melling or ARP shaft even if its a stock rebuild.If any of you reading this have Fords the shaft will twist off with the engine still running with no oil pressure (If the pump locks up) If you use a hardened shaft it will shear off the pin in the distributor and the engine will shut off saving it.
The Ford's have a shaft like a 5/16 Allen wrench if I remember right the last one I built was in a old square bronco 302 2barrel bore job new Pistons cam lifters and valve job went back stock they run that thing in the mud till the sides fell off the body 👍
Had this exact thing happen to me with my 92 mustang. oil pump was binding, not totally seized. It still spun the gear on the distributor shaft. Somehow it didn't spin it totally off. Not knowing what had happened I managed to limp the car home a mile with timing retarded 40 degrees ATDC. The engine is now out of the car for a refresh.
@@wickedlou9 That's amazing it ran in that state,the OE 5.0 engines use an aluminum oil pump housing while the Melling replacement is cast iron and beefy.Part number M-68 is a standard volume pump for any small block ford. ARP 154-7904 is the drive shaft.
Well done Professor Uncle Tony.
Great informational video, This is the type of content that drew me to your channel
An exception to packing the pump with grease is with the aviation engines with their huge clearances, low compression, low RPM operating range. One additional thing you can do when blueprinting an oil pump is reducing the clearance between the pump cover and the gears: target of around 0.002 inches of clearance. A flat surface, a piece of fine sand paper and figure 8 motion until the desired clearance is achieved. Keep ‘em coming Tony!
Excellent show, thank you
Awesome, comprehensive video. My cure for the common Ford oil pump shaft: SBF - hardened Melling or ARP BBF - hardened Melling
Great video on oil pump basics!
Another super usefull lesson. Thanks Tony!
Great video Tony!
I’m glad you covered the gasket
Thanks for the great info!
Great video, Tony!
Deep Purple, I used to have their greatest hits on cassette. Great info on oil pumps.
Thank you sir 👍
Uncle Tony, you are correct on each point, right on brother. It is a missed opportunity to add oil accumulators. There is a huge discussion going on about the but it all comes down to how the vehicle is driven. Plus the new wrinkle is the "Stop / Start" technology being employed. I truly come that era where we rebuilt everything and I can't stand the idea that someone is going to have the same starter life, flex plate life or bearing wear as they did without these systems as a 4 cylinder is going to stop at the same location (Plus / Minus 3 teeth) and take it from there! DK, Omaha. ASE Master Tech, retired.
Thank you for the information
This bypass valve part saved my day , thank you!! About to go pull the pump off the slant 6 😂
Cool and interesting video! I really like watching your channel because I always learn something. On worn pumps or for high performance applications, there is a company called Line to Line Coatings that have an abradable powder coat they use mainly for piston skirts, but they also do anything that rotates and has clearances like oil pumps. Pretty cool stuff!
The basic tech stuff is some of your best stuff. I know most of it, but still learn something from many of them.
Fantastic content!
Great content once again.
A extra lesson for your book... Well done.
By the way, I love your videos!♡!♡! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experiences. There are a lot of people who don't know the difference between a head gasket and an ass gasket. You are not one of those people. I only have a fraction of the knowledge you have, and take all of your video info and translate it into air-cooled VW engine, because that is all I really know but love to learn more. So thank you again
Hi Uncle Tony. Good job. I learned a lot. The next oil system video vould be about the downstream component, the oil filter. Check valve diaphram, silicone or rubber. What engines have bypass valves in the filter or not. Filter media and pleat count, etc. Good quality filters vs. Cheap ones, etc. Thanks.
Agreed, that could make a very good educational video.
Project Farm did a video on oil filters. I think you might like it.
This is great stuff.
That about high value pump explained is what my engine is doin thanks I know what to install and try.
Great info Tony!
Great info, thanks!
You forgot to mention why you should and shouldn't run a hi volume pump in certain applications. For an example I build a lot of LS turbo motors and if you just bolt a hi volume hi pressure pump on a motor in think you can rev 7,000 rpms for long periods of time it will run the pan dry. Hi volume high pressure pumps in my opinion are for added bearing clearance because you're creating a bigger leak. Most engine builders I know like 2.5-3 in something that's going live at 1,200 horsepower+ on race track but if you're going to Street drive it around mite not want to go that much maybe like 2. My one engine builder builds big block Chevy 1,200hp blower car stuff and runs 1.5 on mains and 2 on the rods with a good h bearing's. Some how he has good luck with that Seems a little tight to me but he's been building for 45 years.
The oil film takes up 002 thousands so you gotta loosen em up to get oil around the rod and main journals the first Crank I ever had balanced was on a small journal Corvette 327 and the engine builder called me and said hey it's going to be another 50 bucks I gotta polish the hell out of this crank you don't have enough room for oil when I got it back home it looked like chrome and 8000 thousand RPM was 200 below redline stock melling oil pump Corvette pan and factory windage tray Old school a I loved those little engines but eventually they had to be retired for bigger cubic inches or stay on the porch 👍👍
deep Purple! Tony, that is a band from the early 70's. you crack me up. they had some great hits
I agree, thank you!
Great Job!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Good video. Uncle T touched on something from my HD mechanic school days... very simply, pre-lube every component with the same fluid it will be exposed to while operating normally. In addition, always follow the installation instructions provided with the component. It's that easy.
"instructions! i don't need no stinking instructions". much work, head scratching and possibly a few thrown tools later, "now, where are them stinking instruction. hope i didn't throw them away.". anecdote from my personal experience.
@@jessebianchi2631 hahaha, too true brother!
This is perfectly timed video. I've been thinking about what to do with the oiling system on my 455 Olds. They have over oiling issues from what I have read and understand.
One of the most misunderstood things about any pump is that they create pressure. They do not. Pumps create flow. Pressure is a measurement of resistance to that flow.that why the spring changes the pressure, and the larger pump volume changes the flow.
A stiffer relief valve spring will only increase the maximum pressure. It won't increase your oil pressure at, for example, hot idle if you are only getting 10 PSI and the relief valve doesn't even open until 60+ PSI. To increase oil pressure at below the pressure the relief valve is set for, you either need to increase the restriction with tighter clearances, thicker oil, less leakage, etc or you need more flow from the pump.
Thanks for the lesson Uncle Tony. And thanks for the info on "pack it with Vaseline" myth. Good job as always Uncle Kathy. :)
Great video. Thank you.
Very informative!
Thanks Tony 👍
Good stuff!!!! Thanks
I built my first car engine when I was 12-13, years old, that was such longer ago than I want to think, before that it was a couple. Small engines, and a good bit of tinkering, with alot of stuff, it was a few years before OBD-2 , I used to use a high volume pump, but figured, unless you have looser than stock clearances, higher volume is just eating more power!
Tony, I did a good amount of LS style engines in the GMC Savana vans, ( we gotta fleet of about 2-300 of em, I had those a few times never make pressure, almost like it was vapor lock. I reverse filled the oil through the switch, tried a few other tricks but i find a lil bit of gear oil helped me.
Forgot to revisit the filter relationship, and mention that a long pull on a 5qt pan with a high volume pump can suck a pan dry, but good accurate info.
Very informative video on simple yet so important basics! I'll be removing the oil pump on my Ford V6 and now know exactly what to expect and inspect! Thank you!
Love your videos UT. Back to HVAC tech. The oil that comes into the pump is pushed Into the pump by atmospheric pressure. If you think about a very cold day up at 10,000 elevation. That oil is really struggling to get into the pump.
Excellent tech video!
Thanks Tony. Good to know.
Great info thumbs up!
Great video!
GREAT video! I woct 2 about the 440 oil pump befor this and they were useless. (including vasaline) Now I finally know I need a hi volume pump on my old 440 due to low presssure after it warmz up.
I had an oil pump seize up in a ford 400 v8 once. Old, maybe original, timing gears had vinyl coated teeth. The vinyl started falling off, and the oil pump managed to suck up a small piece of it. Squished the vinyl flat before seizing up. The 3/8" allen/hex driveshaft twisted around partially, but didn't break. The teeth on the camshaft & distributor gears got chewed up in the process, also shearing the pin holding the distributor gear in place on its shaft. I was already planning an engine swap, and didn't want to invest a bunch of money into fixing the 400 properly. So I cleaned up the oil pump, swapped in a spare distributor gear, new timing gears & chain, set the timing, cleaned the oil pan and changed the oil & filter, and hoped for the best. It's been running fine ever since! Better actually, without the timing slop. It's still gonna come out though.
These are the kind of vids that made me a UTG fan.
Yeah the oil pump shaft on a SBF is the Achilles heel of it in my opinion... I put an aftermarket shaft in them even if it is a stock type build! Good video..
Yeah, the long Allen key waa. Always fun to see them twisted like a pretzel.......in somebody else's engine.
Andy be keeping an eye on UT 👀
@@baby-sharkgto4902 Always!
Thanks professor.
Good stuff!
On a 63 Mercury comet I had an oil pump jam up and twist off the distributor to oil pump shaft, because of 1 "little" piece of carbon that got sucked into the oil pump gears. about 1/16" piece about the size of a grain of sand ! Great tutorial, Thanks
Thanks uncle tony