Ryan from Silencer Central, here to give you helpful tips when breaking down and cleaning your BANISH 30 GOLD suppressor.
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This is a great video however it is missing some basic info on the QD (Quick Detachment) part. I just received my Banish 30 Gold, during the indexing of the muzzle brake the muzzle brake (hand tightened only) would not come out of the suppressor. I have not fired through the suppressor as of yet. Waiting to hear back for a solution, I have left a voice mail and sent an email to customer support. Looking forward to a quick resolution. Thanks.
I had that problem once before i loctited my muzzle break on. It was a major pain but I was able to get it off using the baffle removal tool. I threaded it on to the break with a lot of loctite and let it get very snug. Then i was able to twist it open. It took a few attempts before I finally got it to work. Go slow and you'll need to let it dry. After that clean the threads extensively and you should be able to mount it. SInce then, I've mounted 2 6.5 creedmoor muzzle breaks and 1 on my ar15. Works great. Just wish i wasnt a lefty eating all the gunpowder on my gas guns.
@@jasonyoung8556 I was able to get it out. Ended up building a tool that grabbed to the brake from inside the muzzlebrake. The good news is that Silencer Central has new muzzlebrakes out now which have a hex nut 🔩 on them which you can use to easily remove in case anything is jammed.
They are horrible, I hate my Banish 30, sits in the safe new, not planning on shooting it, not only took forever to get to me while got other suppressors in about 4 months so it was Silencer Central, not the ATF in my case, the thing is restricted as hell and not so much user friendly for quick disconnects; seems the answer was the gold and I see lots of complaints about it, and the price, not even Donald Trump can afford it.
Can I use my oem Crush Washer instead of the Banish 5/8 shim kit??
No