The thumbnail numbers are in comparison to the retail weight of the mouse which is 99g with an alkaline AA. In the video, I compare with the most common mod to the mouse, which is to use a lithium AAA with a converter and to discard the battery cover.
Update: Found out about a675 batteries and have tested them for a few days to make sure they actually work in this setup. They have half the capacity of a lithium AAA. So yeah battery life is not a concern.
Hey so I know it's been a month so I'm just curious, how are those batteries working? Any issues? You mention that running 2 in parallel could break the mouse so I'm just curious for myself.
@@rygetlost6002 running batteries in parallel sums up their capacities for the same voltage while in series is the other way around, sums up their voltages for the same amount of capacity. The video shows him using LR44 cells which have around 150mah at 1.5v, some even at 1.55v which may or may not damage the mouse components due to high voltage. I use PR44 hearing aid cells instead, they usually have 650-750mah at 1.4v some at 1.45v and it basically has the same capacity of regular alkaline AAA batteries and are even lighter than lithium AAA ones.
@@ry178 Got it, thanks man! Just curious, how much less does that weigh? I'm asking bc rn I'm just using 1 AAA and even 70g is too much for me lol.
@@rygetlost6002 There's a difference of maybe at least 8g for 1 button cell. I'm sure it's less than half the weight of the AAA battery setup. Though the capacity is also halved against the energizer ultimate lithium AAA. A single AAA lithium battery with the plastic adapter usually weighs around 12g. PR44 with the same AA adapter weighs around 4-5g with slight modifications to the battery setup. imgur.com/a/mcT7z5t this link shows how it's done and you can cut off some more of the plastic adapter to shave of maybe 1g more of weight.
@@ry178 alright I'll probably end up using that but instead bend a paperclip and just hook it up that way lol
lol I remember watching your CSGO lag video in 2015 and now outta nowhere here's a G305 video just shortly after I bought one. nice :D
if logitech make this mouse in superlight edition with weight in center of the mouse it would be the best mouse on the market PS: and usb-c cabel ;)
I prefer this type of battery.
They need to do a version for palm grips.
That is insane dude , good joob.
You sir, are a man of culture
now try it with the superlight B), nice video bro, new sub :D
next up Devin does 1305 gram weight reduction to right hand and 3000g reduction to right arm.
i just use the pcb by itself
That's awesome - what kind of drill bit do you use? Is it really sharp?
just an ordinary one for wood
Can u link or tell me where that battery holder is from? Nice videos btw
i just got a lr44 battery holder off amazon, and i'm using a675 batteries
@@DevinDTV could you by any chance send a link to it? I dont know which to get and I just wanna get one I'll know works, thanks!
Holy sh*t !!!!
3:55 the reason that they are not working is because the amp draw is too much for the battery. So when the mouse tries to turn on, the startup load is killing the voltage. I tried this exact setup, and the battery was dropping to 0.9 volts. Good thing that the a675 worked for you :D
ah i figured it must be something like that but i don't really know how batteries work
What the best alternative? I also did this setup, I tried a silver oxide lr44 hoping it would fix the issue not knowing it was actually an amp issue. Is there another button battery I can use with rather than two in parallel? Otherwise I'm going to have to re-design my battery assembly because I completely ripped it out and soldered a little single button battery holder on.
@@ScumbagLemon i think 1 battery is gonna be tough because they don't provide much amp draw. I think your best bet is to use the a675 batteries
@@Iinustechtips Alright thanks for the heads up. Right now I have one a675 is it, going to see how long it lasts. I'm a electricity noob so correct me if I'm wrong, but running two of these in parallel rather than in a series like in this video would be better right? If I do this, could I use the same assembly he uses in this video? But make a positive connection in between the batteries and use the connections built off the assembly as negative connections? Or can the positive connections not be that close to each other? Trying to figure out the easiest way to make a parallel config.
@@ScumbagLemon I would reccomend running them in parallel, parallel increases the battery life but keeps the voltage the same, parallel is when you connect both the batteries + together and the - together. series keeps the battery life the same and doesn't change the battery life. Series is when you connect + with - for both of the terminals. Hope I made things clear :)
is it safe to use 5volts?
is it possible to have a functioning dpi switch with the lr44 button cell holder? its not like the end of the world if not however im just curious.
yes, you don't have to change the functionality of the mouse at all. i just preferred to not have those buttons
Wow ..
what's the weight balance like, i find removing's weight i shifted mine too far forward and was thinking about compensating by moving the battery mount forward.
the center of mass is a tiny bit in front of the sensor
where i can buy a kit of screwdrivers? i tried with normal size once but were to big for mouse modding
look for "precision screwdriver set" from anywhere
hi there recently i got a g305, have been using it pretty extensively, the mouse feet feels a bit worn out and the clicks were kinda garbage from day 1. should i get corepads for the mouse feet and which switches should i get if i want more tactility, less noise and less actuation force thx for the suggestions
i use PTFE tape on my mouse feet and i have no idea about switches
I know I'm a little late lol, but if you're still interested I recommend Kailh GM 2.0 switches. They're lighter and more tactile. The difference in sound isn't much but it is slightly quieter than the stock switches as well.
@@rishisappidi7683 did you solder new switches
@@EraserNinja Yep, took apart my g305 and soldered them in. It was actually pretty easy compared to other soldering stuff i've done, its a good first project if you've never soldered before.
I want to drill holes on the bottom of my G305 too. Do you have close up photos on where to drill them?
i just drilled anywhere that didn't look particularly structurally important. i'd also suggested not drilling through where the mouse feet are placed. it's not that precise of an operation. a mouse is massively over-engineered if you aren't throwing it against walls all day. i can squeeze my mouse pretty hard and don't notice any substantial flexing
@@DevinDTV alright! Thanks
after watch ur video. the operation volt of the pcb is 1.5 to 3.7v ? , im watching other video someone using 3,7v LiPo Battery
3v+ works. i don't know how high you can go
@@DevinDTV thx man.. im gonna around that 3v. and get CR2016 to put in i hope it works
@@DevinDTV i have question again.. can i use CR2032 to turn on this mouse? i cant find any LR44 Holder for this mouse :(
hello can you please elaborate on the mouse running on 3 volts or higher where did that info come
i tried it and it worked. i can't make any guarantees for your mouse
@@DevinDTV does it still work?
you do not realize how friggin useful side mouse buttons are, but if you don't use em that's fine by me
i play ow and the only thing i use them for is spamming voice lines anything relevant interferes with my aim in sc2 and of course WoW i used them
Did you buy an a675 battery holder to put in? :)
a675 is the same size as the batteries in the video, so i just used the same holder
fam
Too much mess for mouse, just 80 gm with aa battery is fine.
ez
2 LR44 are about 4g 1 lithium AAA is about 7g All that effort to save 3g is simply not worth, you wouldn't even notice the difference. It's also more costly cause 2 LR44 die way faster and need to be replaced more often.
look at dis lil nerd playin with a lil mouse heh