Must Watch Before Rotating Your Tires at Home
In this video I'll go over a very important step that few people mention when they talk about patterns for rotating tires. If you perform this step you can double or triple the life of your tires, especially when rotating tires on a fwd vehicles.
Facebook: / ratchets2015
Twitter: / ratchets15
Instagram: / ratchetsandwrenches
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Ratchets and Wrenches, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Ratchets and Wrenches assumes no liability for any property or personal damage that may arise from doing a repair on your vehicle after watching any of my repair video's. Due to factors beyond the control of Ratchets and Wrenches, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Again Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Ratchets and Wrenches.
This makes a lot of sense. If you are a tire shop owner with a tire dismount machine.
you can get a remount at some places for like 15-25 a wheel...way less than having to buy a good set of tires for like 100-200 a tire when the insides or outside are getting eaten quicker...lol
@@bulletclub4life Will that 100 dollar remount make the tires new? It will only slightly extend the life of those tires, nothing more.
@@pissupehelwan "It will only slightly extend the life of those tires, nothing more." No crap... that's the entire point of tire rotation, genius...
If you spray your tires with 305 looks like armor all , they last 2 x longer sweet project cars channel has a video on it
I use hairspray Last 100K
In the past, I didn't rotate at all. My rear tires always lasted st least twice as long as my FWD front tires so I left them on and just replaced the two fronts. Much cheaper.
Rotating when you are young and have time.."ain't nobody got time for that" when you get older. 😂
25-30$ for a mount and balance around here, its definitely NOT worth having the tires flipped on the wheel. If your tire wear is that un-uniform then that 100$ would be better spent on an alignment...
Yes, labor did go up, even at the independent used tire guy.
Yep. $20 per wheel at Walmart, $80 total! 😮 My tires only cost $120 each. 🤷
Absolutely.
@@Carl_Jr just Buy new tires (rim protectors)
I hate when shops do that..just pay for new tires and align once not when the damage has already been done... you going to pay twice for an align because when you get new tires the car sits different than the align you did with worn tires...if you dont get another align with the new tires, you going to be back where you started in 6mo-1 year....just pay once and cry once not twice...lol
I watch you for almost 5 years man , you getting older 🥹…time fly brother , do you watch your old vid …one of the best Chanel , do you still have the avcado trees
Honestly this is a lot of work and agree with others, it's not worth it. What I have been doing for many years is when the front tires are about halfway worn down, just move the fronts to the back on the same side and run them until it's time to replace. My tires typically last 80-100K and by then they are getting up in age anyway. You also MUST balance them especially when moving to the front. The harbor freight bubble tire balancer is excellent and their sticky weights work great. Don't remove the weights already installed, just tweak it for vibration free driving. In an hour I can have all wheels switched and balanced. Vs going to a shop, waiting for four hours and getting the wheel studs stripped.
I rotate tires every 5,000 Miles on my truck ( RWD) and my 2 grown daughters SUV’s ( FWD) all 3 non directional tread , so I have seen the outside wear you are talking about . Thanks for information on the alternative rotation . Love you channel , NO BS , Information for us poor boy DIY’ers
When Michelin radials started being sold in the USA by Sears under the Sears brand in 1965, they turned the tire industry upside down because they lasted several times the miles the bias tires would last. So the major US tire manufacturers started making radial and bias belted tires trying to compete. Trouble is it took them decades to figure out how to make quality belted tires. They had many issues with the belts breaking or coming loose. During that time they tried to blame the issues on rotating tires to the opposite side of the vehicles which would reverse the rotation. But, it was just bad tire design. Finally after decades of "trying", they finally succeeded in making decent belted tires. During those years, I usually bought only Michelin tires.
I think the cost of having a shop mount your tires a couple times outweighs the cost of just not rotating them that way and letting them wear out a bit faster
plus the more times you dismount and mount tires the more likelihood of damaging the bead
Agreed for typical daily drivers. Our winter tires are directional and our summer tires are not so when I swap tires in the fall and spring I just rotate both sets between front and rear to keep things simple. Hasn't been an issue for us so far. Given that my mechanic charges $160 to dismount 4 old tires and mount/balance 4 new ones, it's not cost effective to have this done regularly for the purposes of rotation
That's exactly what he said in the video but thanks
A couple of dollars to change a tyre over ? The cost of motoring in the US must be cheap ! In the UK it would cost the equivalent of $10 to change over a single tyre and re-balance the wheel. It makes sense on performance tyres but for most people just run the tyre until it is worn out then throw it away. On FWD cars the rear tyres last several times longer than the front tyres anyway.
I just buy the wheel and tire for $20 at the junkyard anyway when anything wears out. its literally cheaper than an alignment or moving the tire onto the old wheels@$10 each
1975 4x4 f-250 , owners manual recommended back to front, and front cross to the back. Did it this way for 20 years every 5000 miles. Currently do the same for my 1995 f-350. This works the best for me. Just as you said today.
I understand what you are saying in theory, but to say you can get someone to reinstall the tire and balance it for a "few dollars" isn't going to happen. Most shops charge $25-35 per tire to do that. In the lifespan of the tire if all goes well you might have overpaid more for this over new tires. And that is if everything is good with your suspension. Here in PA our roads are probably as bad as NYC. There is no way you are going to get anywhere near the life of a tire here.
in 1993 it was like $9 a tire but most shop found out they could ream you on mount and balance and you'd pay it !!
Slightly of off topic but some will find this interesting: I'm one of those drivers who gets significant wear on the outer edge of the front tires.It's caused by the cheap FWD cars i drive, but my corner entry style (fast in) makes it much worse. Suspension shops couldnt help because these cars didnt have camber adjustment ,and there were no aftermarket adjusting kits like there are now. So after putting up with this for a few years i decided to modify one of the strut bolt holes on my suspension.Essentially i used a drill bit like it was a milling tool to elongate the holes sideways. This was done with the suspension strut assembled but with the drill bit replacing one of the bolts. So pushing sideways against the suspension caused the drill bit to cut sideways, cutting a slot that's curved perfectly with the bolt's axes. Those couple of mm extra negative camber has made a world of difference! The front tires now wear perfectly,and i get to keep my fun driving style😁
Interesting idea about how rotation without remounting is only half the story. I guess it boils down to the expense of remounting and rebalancing vs the extra tire life. In my area, it's way more than a couple of bucks to remount and rebalance tires. But if it were required for another reason, such as bad wheel speed sensors, it might be worth looking at. The way directional tire patterns limit options must reduce tire survival, in those who bother to do rotation.
In theory, I’ll agree with you. Reality and cost perspective, just roll them until they are worn out then replace. No need to rotate unless you are rolling some seriously expensive tires.
Such a great point. It's always came to mind that rotating the tire on the wheel was the best way to go, but I wasn't sure.
Thanks, I was only rotating wheels, I hadn't thought of dismounting the tires, I'll do that next time!
Rarely ever rotated my tyres over all my cars and 45 plus years of driving. But always got over recommended tyre manufacturers rated life of thier tyres. Often double rated life of tyres. What I had found is the recommended pressures by manufacturers are often about 5 psi to low and can cause the excess wear to occur. Just my experience, not saying it's the same for everyone. But works very well for me over the years.
Agree, I usually have them at 35-40 psi ignore the sticker on the car. Ride quality is good, handling is good and they don't wear. My tires go 80-100K+ depending on city vs highway. They get moved front to back once, depending on wear, usually at about 40K+. Last set on one of my cars went 110K.
Yup. Inflate to a proper pressure (usually 5 to 10psi over mfg recommended) and you'll get 100k miles on your tires easily. I don't get why people chronically underinflate tires and wallow around just to get a little better ride.
YO IM SO HAPPY TO SEE A NEW UPLOAD!!!!!!!!
The theory behind your recommendation is good, but in my experience, this would only realistically apply for a car that is used on the track or for a car that has a large amount of camber. In my experience, the 5,000 mile rotation interval is extremely unnecessary. I actually prefer to keep tires at the same location so the tire can help identify potential problems that I miss during inspections. I just rotated tires on a car that hadn't been rotated in 30k miles, and every tire looked identical. This may not be the case for rwd vehicles that spin the rear tires a lot, but imo, the interval should be at least 15k miles
I always recommend every other oil change at my shop. Makes it easy for return customers to remember and prepare for future expense.
Yeah, all the rotations seem quite unnecessary in my experience if there is no alignment problem. I leave them alone until the front tyres are 70% worn, then I rotate front to back for the rest of the tyre life. Only do this because I want to replace all four tyres at the same time and front wheel drive wears the front tyres much faster than the rear.
Yeah rotation every 5000 miles is endless revenue for shops and a complete waste of time. My wife's van goes 20K/yr, we'd be in the shop 4x a year. No thanks. When the fronts wear down they get moved to the back. This is at 40-50K.
I have to admit, it does make sense to mount/dismount tires every couple of cycles to even the wear across the tread, assuming that you have no issues with the suspension or the alignment of the car. But I have never seen this recommendation, either from the tire shops or the tire manufacturer. Nonetheless, I have done exactly as you suggest here in this video as my tires have aged (with more notable wear on one side or the other of each tire). Now others have further commented that doing so every 10K, say, would amount to a costly maintenance, considering the shop charge for dismounting/mounting and balancing each tire/wheel. If you do it yourself (after all, you started the video by addressing your listeners as DIYers) that cost is avoided. I use a HF tire tool, but I keep the tire with its matching wheel and mark where my wheel balance weight is located relative to the tire. This may not be exact in keeping the tire balanced as before, but I would suggest it comes pretty close. In doing so I have not found any difference when driving the car after "rotating" the tires.
Aint nobody got time for that! 🤣 I just criss cross em whenever Ive got the jack out for some reason.
Good point. Never thought of it this way!
It seems like sidewalls dry rot nowadays before the tread wears down. And I generally don't buy cheap ones.
Gold content as always!
I use ordinary Goodyear tyres on a corolla. The tyres are not directional (no arrows), but asymmetrical. The tyres are however clearly marked 'outside' and 'inside' So I take that there will be no way of changing the outside to the inside in that case?
I've rotated my tyres for the last thirty years and doing so means that they all wear out at much the same time and then I replace them with four new ones again. In my experience if pressure and alignment are kept correct they wear pretty evenly across the tread throughout their lives. I take a look at how the front tyres are wearing periodically which indicates the state of the alignment and check the pressures regularly.
Thanks for video
Nowadays, the only reason to rotate front to rear is to get all four tires to wear out at the same time. I rotate my tires about every 20k miles and I do not have any strange tire wear issues.
very good tips
Good info. Thanks
can you do a video on awd cars like cr v and the care involved as far as having to replaceca tire due to road hazards. is it possible without having to replace all 4 because awd cars demand a balanced ride compared to regular cars....also noticed those tires look similar to cross climate michelan tires which only allow front to back straight rotation.. these are my past issue and future because i am looking into the cross climates. thank you...your channel is great.
If the owners manual suggests only frt to back on the same side and they are not labeled for rotation in one direction ( rotational tires) do you follow the owners manual or your preferred method? Thank you.
Good to know about changing wearing pattern for the front tires, did noticed it. Went through both your garage build, impressive work. Didn't hear break down cost. A dream garage and lift for sure for DIYers.
Excellent demonstration. Why directional tires should be avoided.
I see the comments echo what I was thinking. Yes, it is a good idea to have the tires "flipped" around on the wheels, but when it means a drive to the probably busy tire store to have someone who might not be very careful do the work for potentially $25 a tire, I'll just buy new ones instead! Maybe if money got tight I would change my mind, but right now convenience tops money.
This season I had to pay $30 per tire to have a smaller shop properly remount and balance my directional snow tires after two separate big chain shops (Walmart & Belle Tire) failed to balance them even close to properly balanced due to new, undertrained employees using worn out, neglected balancers in need of repair. The Walmart tech mgr admitted as much after their 2nd attempt and was decent enough to not try to charge me. So after blowing half a day at the the first chain shop, then wasting two trips to Walmart (at least Walmart agreed not to charge anything for being unable to balance properly) I went to a small local shop and they nailed it spot on in the first attempt. But at $120 to mount & balance 4 tires? Imagine that every 5K miles? No way. Also, regardless of whether your tires are directional or not, you don’t flip the direction as shown in one of your preferred patterns as tire belts are more prone to shifting, requiring replacement. Maintain your front end components and alignment (as you stated) and alternate front to back, and back to front, on the same side. All that rim swapping is more $$$ than new tires over the lifespan of a set of tires.
Very good. Agree with other viewers, the cost of rotating on wheel is expensive. Wish I had access to tire machine and balancer, would then. good to know.
Good to no about front wheel drive and tire rotation thanks
I have a full size spare. Should that be included in rotation?
If you have one set of rims and two sets of tires (winter and summer for example) then this would be very easy to do as you take the tires off anyway. If you only have one set then probably not, I live in Croatia, Europe and you can have the 4 tires swapped for 20 dollars. So it really depends how expensive your tires are
I was told not to rotate a radial tire in the opposite direction as what it was. I run my FWD front tires to about half tread, then move them to the rear for winter. Rotate the low-treads back to the front for Summer. Replace them before Winter.
I’ve heard the same years ago, something about the steel belts shifting 🤷♂️
True, but that was back in the 80s, when steel belts first came out.
I noticed I have wheel rock up and down. I can see the upper ball joint move on the passenger side. However, I was flipping through my Ford manual the other day, and it says the movement is allowed to be up to .031" or 1/32". So I will have to put a dial indicator on it like the book shows in the illustration and record the reading. Perhaps it may be okay and within spec.
If you can see or feel play at all, it's time for replacement
I worked at Firestone in the 80's and bad wheel bearing was a killer of tires too
I grew up changing tires in my dad's shop so I know what needs to be done. I've had 2 shops rip the beads on flat tires I sent in for repair. You're gambling that the guy who touches your tire is competent. That's why I spent $7000 on a tire changer for myself.
Can I use HT tires front and AT tires rear on a 2wd suv?
I think this sounds cool but it would increase the time of a tire rotation. Idk how fast people can dismount, rotate, and remount a single tire on a rim but I do know that this would be good for collectable cars.
Do you have a shop? I seem to recall you being in north county San Diego.
Does the cost of a shop remount and balance get saved in wear?
I've never bought in to tire rotation of any kind. I think the whole idea is a ploy by tire companies to wear out tires faster. Think about it; if you are grinding down a surface, it's always faster to concentrate pressure on small area than it is to apply even pressure across a broad area. After every time you rotate your tires, you will see areas of your tires being worn down quickly.
If you are seeing uneven wear, you've got a suspension issue, pressure issue, or alignment issue. The reason you see areas work down quickly has to do with a change of weight distribution on the tire because it's experiencing a new load, because something is off.
Also, the psi is important. On older cars the tires were 35 max psi cold. Today tires run 44 to 51 psi max cold. Should higher psi be used? Or, keep following the door plates tire psi?
The tire manufacturers and vehicle manufacturers always recommend following the specs on the door.
In California , by law ANYTIME ,any reason I work on car I AM required to set tires to Door sticker +-2psi ..AND noted on repair order
Tire pressure is based on the specific tire, load on tire, and speed. Look at chart for your tires. Doorjam number is usually for max gvwr number. Problem is, especially on unloaded 1 ton trucks, 80 psi is way too much in rear when unloaded or light. If you lower pressure to correct amount for the rear axle weight, the tpms light will come on...
@@inverseuniverse5727 I just got a new set of tires. We got 76k on them rated for 65k. The max pressure was 51 psi. The 06 highlander door sticker says 35 psi. I ran them at 44 and never had an issue. More pressure less rolling resistance. The 06 highlander has 332k runs great.
Depends on the cost of your tires. A set of E rated Toyo Mud Terrains for a f350 run around $2,000 Canadian installed with taxes. tires for a new Z06 corvette can run you 2,500 or more.even a Honda civic SI can run from $500 economy tires to $1300 dollar competition spec. The tires for my Honda fit run about $400 for all 4. Worth it for some vehicles, not so much for a little economy car. do the math and whatever works for you.
So, if I have directional tires (using the first front wheel drive rotation pattern) I will have to remount the two rear tires when they get crossed over to the front, each time. Which takes care of the inside vs out side problem.
Directional tires can only be moved front to rear.
People need to be aware they could possibly have tires which are not only directional but some have sidewalls which are specific to the outside edge of the wheel. I have a set of Nitto NT420V tires. They are not directional but the tread pattern on the tires is specific to the outside edge versus the inside edge of the wheel. On the sidewall it literally reads "OUTSIDE".
Those are known as asymmetrical tires. That's what I have on one of my vehicles.
I have found out that the date code is only on one side of my tires. I wonder if you only have one date code per tire, and it is on the "OUTSIDE" of each of your tires?
@@stevenkerwin4041 That's a legitimate thought, but no. I doubt I can post a link here but if you go to the Nitto site to research the tire they specifically speak to this. As Jeff spoke to, they are asymmetrical and do have a specific orientation in which they're to be mounted. I would guess their choice of the simple word "Outside" is more visually appealing than if they were to mold "This Side Out" into the sidewall. 😁👍
I checked my asymmetrical tires and the date code is printed on only one side of the tire, in this case on the side that is marked "outside." On my set of symmetrical tires the date code is also only printed on one side, so I'm assuming that it's done like that on all tires.
@@jeffu.8053 Correct. The date code is only on one side. What brand and model of asymmetrical tires do you own? I'm just curious if other brands use "OUTSIDE", too, or if some have other ways of indicating designated orientations.
awesome
I mark my rims and track where each rim is on the vehicle. A few times, a place claims they rotated the tires, but they never did, based on my tracking.
I would think this is where inflation pressure comes into play. I just hit 100k on Falken Wildpeaks I bought for my F150 in 2019. I usually run them from 45-60 PSI. Definitely not the most comfortable ride, but tires are expensive! Learned my lesson after my Ridge Grapplers only lasted a little less than 60K.
Your not taking in consideration that the camber angle speck is different front to rear. Also, their is a camber allowable tolerance of + or - 1/5° in most cases, thus the ware pattern ware on the outer edge. In the case of the Vette that your using for demo purpouse. The Vette's front cambe angle speck is postive. And the rear camber angle speck is negitive. You do have a point of switiching left to right via dismonting the tire. But, you need n to do a cost benifit analysis, on the type of tires that vehicle has. And if the owner is willing to fork the extra expeness. Your fan always...
Good video, but you missed including the spare tire in the rotation. Most of my vehicles have full size spares, so I rotate them as well.
Wheels from 80’s !!
I do 5 tire rotation since i have a full size spare and same rims.
Most tires have say outside tho does that not matter what the manufacturer has said?
I rotate my tires every 5K miles from front to back. I generally get 110K miles for a tire that has 60 K to 80K mile warranty. Most of my driving is highway (ironically, I live on a highway). I put that many miles on a car in 3 years which is how long the tires last me.
Maybe you should have your alignment checked if you are prematurely wearing out the outside edge of your tires.
Easy to do that when you have an entire shop and all the necessary tools at your disposal, like it's yor case
Unfortunately, many tires are mark "side facing outward" e.g. Goodyear Eagle RS-A, so the remount does not help.
How about cars that have different tyre sizes in front and rear wheels.
Tire rotation is a "no" for me, because I have a 2003 corvette. Rear tires are larger than front, and also the tires are asymetrical. They must be mounted in one direction, and also need to be mounted with correct side facing out. The tires are also performance tires that only last 3 years or 30,000 miles anyways. A trade off has been made between performance and tread life. So even if the tires could be "rotated" that is not going to buy much more life out of the tires. If there is some sort of wear pattern on one or more tires, that indicates you need some suspension work, or wheel alignment. Best to correct the cause of uneven tire wear, than to rotate tires. Rotation wont correct suspension or alignment issues. I have gone thru a lot of sets of tires, and I always inspect suspension and alignment before putting on a fresh new set of tires. (them tires are not cheap, so I do what I can to get the max lifespan out of them.)
I might be wrong but it appears that being directional tires, this would cause some of the tires to rotate against their directional arrows. Again, I may have missed something here - if so, I stand corrected.
Shouldn't we be doing that with 2 tires and not just one? Or maybe all 4? (every 2 rotations)
You do it with all 4 every other rotation. Was just showing one to demonstrate how it travels around. its pretty much the same for the other 3.
Front to back and call it a day, especially if you have directional tires, otherwise, don't rotate and replace fronts only and move fronts to the rear. You are saving nickels and dimes by doing anything else.
My wife has never made it through a full lifetime of a full set of tires without hitting or running over something that requires a new tire.
ditto!
@@steverayrapp lol! Had a feeling I wasn’t the only one.
I completely confused! lol!
What if you have a full size spare tire?
Same. I have a spare. But my idea. Keep it as a spare. Its on a ugly rim anyways. Until i replace my 4 tire my spare will be the same as well.
Agree I'd just leave it alone but ensure it's properly inflated and replace it when it gets dry rotted
I have directional tires. Now I'm afraid to go into reverse 😁
Good video, but this is not for me. In my area, a garage will charge $25+ per wheel for a dismount/mount/balance. Every 7000 miles that would be a metric shit-ton of money. I rotate tires when I switch from summer to winter tires/wheels and put the ones with the most tread on the drive axle. It works OK for me. I totally agree about checking your suspension & alignment frequently.
how do we rotate the spare tire
Your vids are always helpful. But dude, "A couple bucks" for a dismount+mount+balance? Most shops would charge at least $25 per tire, plus charge you for weights and new valve stems. Using that method, four to six dismounts would pay for new tires on an average car.
What if you have fwd/awd
Oh snap! You have missed something. You mentioned tire size but! You didn't mention rim sizes. Some people cheap out and get the same size tires for front to back where the rear is supposed to be wider with a lower sidewall and has a wider rim with different offset. Have seen this on Mercedes, which the wider rear rim tightened on the front damages the front strut. Lol oh the humility. Anyway otherwise a perfect explanation.
👍
Not noticing that some tires also have inside/outside faces... asymmetrical (but non-directional) treads.
I’ve been saying this for ever. People think I’m crazy
I couldn’t even get my tires rotated correctly from a major tire chain store. I marked the tires prior to having them done. They have never put the correct tire pressure either. Having tires re-mounted is too much hassle in my opinion. I rotate simply front to back same side every 5-7 k miles and that’s it. All 4 tires are of course same size.
Yep I do not let stores touch my car. I'll do it myself and get it done right every time.
This is much simpler than normally presented. Rotate only once at about 50% treadlife. Anything more is unnecessary and a waste of time.
Not really necessary if your alignment is good. I have a couple of all wheel drive Subarus and just rotate straight front to back ever 10,000 miles or so and the tires wear perfectly even until all 4 are worn out and I replace them.
I never rotate just buy 2 new front tires when they wear and place the rear ones in the front and new ones in the back
I just did this. I bought 4 Michelin's at Costco they took $150 (good deal) off the price. I had them put the old decent rears on the front and put 2 new tires in the rear and 2 in the trunk for a future mount.
Wouldn't be a bad idea to flip the tires halfway through the tread life. Flipping them every other oil change would be excessive, and would probably be better spend on an alignment, or saved up to buy the next set of tires. I work in an Automotive shop and the amount of times a customer has asked me to do this is none/almost none. I have done this on one of my personal vehicles. If I get another 10k out of the tires it would be worth it, since I did it myself, so there was no labor charge. At $200 per tire, it made sense to do so, due to normal inner edge wear. $60 tires wouldn't be worth paying a shop to flip, as one would probably end up spending enough to cover 2-3 tires, if they flipped them every 10k.
Not worth flipping due to cost. My shop charges $20 a tire which includes balancing. I agree with you though, to achieve the most even wear that is how to do it. But the cost does not out way.
Seeing a lot of comments saying this isn't worth it. Of course if you're using crap tires it isn't!
The shops that rotate the tires for free for there life and align it ,1 time, but there tires are 20 percent higher jus tr moved up on my go to place for tires.
What ever happened to including the spare tire in the rotation, I bought a matching rim from a junkyard for my truck and got more then 60k miles out of a set of tires.
I'd suggest looking into a 5 tire rotation with a full size spare. Especially if you've got 5 matching wheels.
he must have left the shop door closed and a few cars running for this video! to dismount 2 tires with rebalance is like $70 here in NY so $140 for 4 tires ... i let my fronts wear out buy 2 new front tires and switch them to the rear and the old rears wear out on the front in like 2-3 years..
FYI, those summitomo tires off that vette are absolute shitty for track use.
Let’s be real. No body got time fo dat.
The cost of rotating make no sense to me to do that. For cars but truckers expensive tires 😅
Treat yourself to the dcb900 you won't regret it 😁
Proper inflation is half of it.
You dont own a Nissan 350z Alignment perfect. Front tire still go bad cupping quickly
Bad shocks cause uneven wear
I think this is for guys that have their own shops and expensive tires.