Fixing a Rescue Winch & Getting it Back to Work ~ FABRI-COBBLED RESTORATION
2020 ж. 10 Шіл.
145 493 Рет қаралды
The winch on this tow truck was having major issues with the fair lead, and I'm going to attempt to fix it without having to buy anything... I figured I'd take you along as I figure out the problem and come up with a solution!
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Tools USED in the VIDEO:
Boots (Trust me they're a MUST have tool) - amzn.to/2ZgzVkI
AC / DC Welder - amzn.to/35MnuPL
Welding Rod - amzn.to/2PKr5bE
Angle Grinder - amzn.to/2Mlc4e9
Portable Battery Bandsaw - amzn.to/39391Bi
Dual Power Work Light Tower - amzn.to/33d1Ty1
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If you have any suggestions, questions, or comments, please leave them below!
Thanks for stopping by, I truly appreciate your support!
#WinchRestoration #WinchRepair #SalvageWorkshop
Quick tip, paint the first 6 wraps on the drum red as a reminder not to pull off to much cable
Not a bad idea... He'll need a MUCH longer cable to do that!
@@SalvageWorkshop The wraps are what provide the holding force to keep the cable on the drum, the set screw on the drum is only there to hold the end of the cable out of the way. That winch looks like it could hold at least 100' of cable. A downside to having more cable is that each layer of wraps reduces the pulling power of the winch because it has less leverage. So you have to balance how much cable you have with how much pulling power you need.
Copper or lithium never size is an msutfor thins like this and wheel nuts and so on
Great tip! I will paint mine!
Cable cutting tip: If you have access to oxy-acetylene cutting torch, it will cut the cable like butter and leave you a nice smooth welded fray-less end.
Very nice job. Your buddy has a great friend in you. The wince is now better than new. Great video.
This is one of your best videos....it shows the confidence people have in you and your work; it provides an insight into your uncanny ability to visualize problems and see if they can be solved; it offers a look into your professional ability to make a tool useful, stronger, and more efficient; and it answers the question of whom do I go to in order to find out if this can be repaired and rescued rather than just tossing away a couple of thousand dollars by replacing this with a brand new one. That my friend is the very definition of skill and integrity. Best wishes, hugs for the Weims, and stay healthy.
that fairlead has seen better days. i used to drive a slant bed recovery vehicle at the garage where i worked to bring non running vehicles back to the shop for repair. a tilt bed is a massive improvement over a stationary slant bed. good job fixing that. most would've simply replaced the fairlead, but you fixed it, and improved it.
Nice job! I like that you took the time to prep and paint all the parts or apply anti-seize to prevent corrosion. So many folks don't do a thorough job.
Man you needed that truck moving all those machines
I would LOVE to have one!
Monday morning quarterback here. That looks like you had to fix a design flaw in the mount. Glad I didn't have to do it. But I think I would have considered using heavy gauge 2" x 4" box steel and raise the winch up 4". This might give room to mount the fairlead centered and anchored at the top and bottom. Looks like the fairlead is still anchored only at the top unless I missed something in the video.
One problem with your idea is, you actually want the cable to be pulled as low as possible, so that the cable isn’t scraping up the paint on the bumper of the car you’re towing. Another reason you want it low is, that cable is often used as the front hold down point, so you want it pulling down so the car can’t shift.
Looks like the roller was replaced with a different length unit. Holes in the assembly were to allow bolts to be used. Looks good. Thanks for sharing.
Great repair from an ole Holmes 440 Wrecker operator! Gotta love a good winch!
Suggest you weld in a fillet on those right angle corners. Stress does not like a sharp turn that is under heavy or sharp applications. It likes to flow around corners like a car taking a turn. A gentle bend is much less stressful than a sharp turn. Nice video. turns. Incidentally, the fair lead looks to be the wrong length. It looks too long for the drum. JoeB. Retired civil Engr.
If you are using Krylon spray cans, you should get the spray handle that goes with them. Way easier to use. Thanks for a great video.
Design flaw not being lined up. Good job.
That's the way you do it one hand helps the other. I wish more people thought like that.
The best way to get a friend is to be a friend!
Awesome attention to detail... job well done sir ! 🇺🇸🇺🇸
Well done sir. I appreciate you sharing this with us.
watching you fight with that rope made me laugh. next time you have to have the rope fully extended out to coil it up properly. start from the hooked end so the other end can twist as you coil it up
Good work as always...Keep safe.
LOL. In the Navy they call all of those twists in wire rope a** holes.🤣😂
Thanks for taking the time to show winch retrofit. Regardless of some of the comments on here, at least you took the time to show us how to do it your way.
Great job. That should last your buddy a long time. Have a great day.
It works like a charm bud! Great job!
The way you welded the frame is the way it should have been manufactured, but like everything else there would be no built in obsolescence and the manufacturer would go out of business. Excellent work👍👍👍. Thanks for sharing
I totally agree!
Why didn't you use the existing two holes in the frame ? 2 bolts ,better for future maintenance
Darn good job my man.
Some of the comments are constructive , but your attention to detail shows you have been trained really well, Best wishes from the U/K.
Great job ! And nice work , much better than before !! And it has a brand new cable !! 👍👍
Great job on that winch. Bet your buddy is well pleased.
Thank you! Ya he was pretty excited!
Just my 2c A good friend of mine had the same problem, what we did was cut the cross brace out between the drum then welded the runners up a bit more and centre, for what we removed we added braces to support the motor on the side down to the tray, that was over 10 years now and the drum still works great.
Not sure why I didn't think of that!?! Ya that would have worked, and if he still has trouble, maybe we'll give that a try!
My thoughts also. And he could have saved some grief straightening the fairlead just cutting it free at the cracks. Alignment would have been easier...only thing missing, some grease zerks in the roller pins. Looks like I need to buy him some 7018, I see he's still burning that old stink rod.....
Huge fan of your channel, I’ve learned so much. Thanks ☮️😎
That's awesome my friend! Thanks for the support!
Great Project, Thanks.
Enjoyed your video and gave it a Thumbs Up
Well done, sir.
Enjoyed watching this 👍👍👍
Awesome job!
It looks to me that the fairlead is not aligned with the hoist drum.
Exactly! The idiot who attached that fairlead should have his welding equipment confiscated.
You are Awesome ! I also Love ALL Your Dogs !!!!
Thank you Mary!
Good video , and improved repair.
Nice work!
Great job
Seems to work fine, but your first idea with putting the roller set above the beam in front of the winch would be best! Would that change the spool direction on the controllers? Some grease nipples on the roller housings would be nice, too... But great job so far! :-D Thx for showing us!
I com for the projects, but I stay for the random puppy photo bomber lol
Awesome!
Nice job 👍
Good job!
Very nice job!!
Good job on rebuilding that bent up up hunk of metal .I know I would have did the same as you did.Move it out and over and make it centered the best you could get it
Ya, the goal was to fix it, and not just buy a new one! Plus he needed it done quickly!
Nice work
Fine work.
Good work as usual. I had a question, but it has already been asked and answered.
..good one, great repair...keep safe..
Thank you Bob!
NICE JOB WELL DONE.
Hello a great video and a perfect job 👍👍👍👍👍from Germany 🇩🇪 👋👋👋Kai
very well done
Great video and thank you so much for sharing, i really enjoy your video's! :)
Awesome job!!!!
Thank you!
Line up the fairlead,by mounting on top of the bracket in front of the winch roller
Great job!Better than new
New sub here. I'm gonna bet that it works better than when it was new ! Nice repair.
Hmmmmmmmm, i can smell that grinding and welding, i love that smell of metal working.
Could have put a spot of weld on the end of the frayed cable to hold it.
Wow great job better then before modify improved way better then probably new !!!!!!😊👍
You got that right!
That hooked pry bar looks handy have to find me one
Wouldn't be hard to make one either!
Careful with that never sneeze stuff. One minute your hands are perfectly clean and the next you turn into the tin man from The Wizard Of Oz! 🧙♂️🔧
Well done. Btw, good choice using the anti-seize as well. Grease goes south quick in hot outdoor applications where the oils in the grease tend to dry up, and all your left with is a useless hardening paste.
EXACTLY!
Not one to troll anybody, but you should never use the comics section of the news paper for taping off in prep for paint! Always use the business section, when finished promptly burn! 😂😂😂😂 Great video thank you
I know, but the comics just weren't very funny this week!
HAHAHAHA
Not surprised it was bent up being installed the way it was, it's quite clearly designed to be bolted onto the front of whatever the winch is mounted to, not crudely welded in on just one side, never mind being out of alignment. Looks like the original configuration was to not use that style of fairlead at all, having the cable run over or below that plate, with probably only side rollers, relying on the plate itself to guide the cable instead of upper/lower rollers.
So, too late now, but those winches can pull over the top, every one I’ve seen is that way due to the motor.
Nick Jolls I’m no expert but that’s the thought I had also. Would you have to move the fare lead to the top of the bracket then? Seems like that would fix the alignment problem too.
Cory, you have a couple options. Turn the winch around so the motor is toward the cab keeping the fairlead low, or mount the fairlead above the bracket. The fact everything is mounted in a goofy bracket makes me think it is a retrofit anyways. Usually the winch is mounted between the bed frame rails down low so it pulls over the top and the fairlead is low.
I'm sure they CAN, but I prefer to have the fairlead mounted in line with the winch spool to avoid unnecessary load on the rollers... When it's mounted on top, it will ALWAYS have the full weight of the load bearing down on the bottom roller, and not all fairleads can handle that... Plus you want the winch line as low as possible so there is as little potential for interference with the cable as possible... tow trucks never know what they're going to be picking up and not everything has plenty of clearance on the bottom... This was a factory installed winch... they still sell them exactly like this.
@@SalvageWorkshop The same winch can be used either with the cable pulling over the top or under the bottom although Ramsey shows installation with the cable over the top. Jerr Dan pulls the cable over the top of the winch so when the fairlead is mounted on top, the cable is centered in it. Miller, who makes the Century bed, pulls the cable under the bottom so the fairlead has to be mounted low to have the cable centered between the upper and lower rollers. That it results in the fairlead having to be set to one side to clear the hydraulic motor so it doesn't wind cable all the way to one end of the spool when under heavy load. The fairlead is made with one spring loaded roller that can move as the the layers pile up. The spring loaded roller is up when the cable pulls over the top of the winch and down when it pulls around the bottom. There is often an option for a spring loaded roller to hold the cable against the drum so it is less likely to cross over itself or tangle when reversed without anything pulling on the cable. Somebody has obviously pulled the hook into the fairlead on that truck, bending the fairlead.
Salvage Workshop “Fair” enough.😎
Back 2 back videos pretty much! Do you sleep my Brother? Lol Thanks for sharing! I always enjoy your videos! Ive been with you since your channel was a little guy lol im thinking it was definitely under 2k subs when i subbed. Take care buddy! And thanks Again for All your hard work and slaving days Editing! Most people think the Work is the hard part. lol i beg to differ lol its the Video editing! Lol. God bless you bro.
Wow, that was one perfect job, I bet Peter was so surprised and happy about that! Thank you
Excellent job mate, I'd be proud of that!
Love your work and logic applied for why you do things how you do them. Only thing I would mention is the loctight. I understand the reason behind the red, however as some one who has had to work such parts, blue would have been better. As the cable needs changed periodically due to wear the holding power the red will have on a set screw will make that a miserable job next time it is changed.
Wow. That thing was hit HARD
That or it pulled something fairly heavy right into itself... either way it sure bashed it up pretty good!
You doing a great job like your others videos . I note there are a blood on your left Hand , I hope you be in a good heath , be safe . from Iraq Best Regards ..
Awesome
Just a thought... Was there room to rotate the pump 90 deg so it was pointing down. Then the rollers could be centralised on the drum maybe? Cheers Eric
By no means I'm tr1to tell you what to do. After you got it back in to shape I would have anil it to help relax the metal. Cool video
Not sure mild Steal really needs Anealed.
To take the work hardened out of it
Thanks for sharing the project. But, FYI, you didn't fix the situation that caused the problem in the first place. The roller fairlead is supposed to be mounted to a flat plate. Not welded on one edge. My guess on what originally happened is that the operator tried to pull a car (or something) from the side (parking to the left of that object and trying to pull it toward the side of the truck, maybe a car out of a ditch). That put extreme load on that passenger side roller bending the fairlead frame into the shape you found. If you wanted to mount it back the way it was, you should have secured the bottom of it also. With this said, if the operator uses it like it is supposed to be used (pulling cars straight up the ramp) it will be fine. But if they try to pull sideways again, the same thing will happen. (a tip for the operator if he reads this, use a snatch block on the bed or to a tree, don't put all that load on the fairlead). Not trying to troll. Just wanted to make sure you knew. I deal with winches and fairleads all the time (off road). Thank you for taking the time to share your projects.
Snatchblock is a must have. But I think those spools/guide should be even more centered to the winch spool
Looks to me like the winch should be mounted so the hydraulic motor is facing forward or vertical and isn't in the way of the fairlead and rollers..
Its actually worse than just misused the winch. If you look, that isnt the right roller fairlead for that winch and its not the right winch for the bed. Someone jacklegged everything back together after ripping a winch out at some point. Rollbacks arent meant for recovery, and ESPECIALLY aluminum beds. Sure you can do a TONNE of work off them but its NOT what they are supposed to be used for.
Also these fairleads are relatively cheap and supposed to be bolted in so they are the FIRST thing to break/bend....welding it in defeats that purpose and will lead to more expensive repairs later...the fairleads are less than $200 last I looked ... thats not a great friend that would rather make you work all afternoon instead of spending a couple hundred bucks on his money maker...
I had some of those thoughts, but you articulated them much better.
A rare video indeed. We now know what you look like and sound like LOL. Anyway, those dogs are wonderful and are very smart. Being 72 myself I have seen used and own a lot of Ol Tools and yesI wonder what the story of how they came about.
The issues is clear a cheap 2 ton fair lead roller install under bracket not on top were it belongs,you have a 10 ton winch stressing the weak fairlead. If you look you can see the winch manufacture has holes pretty down on top wer the fairlead roller belongs,you want winch cable up high to help feed and center cable.
Your buddy owes you at least one free tow.
Nice work, quick solution on the real. Why is the cable not greased?
Good work and a nice finish 👍🏴
Yep the fairlead should go on top of that bracket with a more supportive frame on the vertical at each end and braced to the back, also be centered to to drum and that is why he had problems in the beginning but I understand that he wanted low for clearance of vehicals
Put the roller assembly on top of the plate
First thing.. That is the wrong fairlead for that winch.. Probably correct for the bed though. The winch has more than likely been replaced with a different model than was originally used on the century bed. Next issue...get the first 5 wraps on the drum. Make sure the cable is straight,relaxed and not twisted. Then hook it to another veh. And have someone hold the brake while you winch it in to you. You gotta wind that cable under a load.
Why did you not weld the guide section to the top 9f the bar that supported the guide section?
I've always used copper and nickle anti seize for grease like this in the past. I remember recently AVE saying that it contains silica or some type of abrasive and acts almost like grinding compound in a bearing situation??? I don't know if this is true or not but it has made me wary. Maybe a marine grease would work well for an exposed application like this.
Anti seize is not a lubricant. Every time I run across a component where it has been used as such it is gummed up. Never run into that when grease is applied. Doesn't need to be any special grease.
That is more of a factor with higher speed applications... these rollers move so slowly and so infrequently that I'm not worried about that at all... I would be more worried about the grease melting out with the high summer temps we have here in the midwest... I'm sure the RIGHT grease would also work very well in this situation!
@@SalvageWorkshop I'm with you. I would probably still use it myself. I recently picked up a surplus bottle of BONDLOC white high temp anti-seize that I've been using because the price was right lol, but it seams smoother than the copper or nickle stuff.
Nice repair and correction of the original cause . One of those "What were they thinking moments ? " l've been in the swimming pool industry for the past 50 years with no real experience with winches , and with the first view of the alignment , saw the issue . So the question is how many other fair leads were mounted this way ? All in all , good job .
Thank you Richard! Ya I run into a LOT of those "What were they thinkin?" situations, all I can do it figure it out from there! Honestly I'm no winch expert, but this one was setup a bit weird with that pump located where it was.... All the others i've dealt with have the fairlead perfectly lined up with the winch spool.
Excelente te saluda Carlos r desde colonbia
Need those pins drilled and grease zerts installed
also when you first make up your line you have to have it under load and use a 2x4 if needed to keep the line straight on the drum. it will naturally take the twist and wrap of the drum and load more evenly. first load is most important
Watched Ron Pratt's channel and they regularly service the winches on their wreckers by spooling out ALL the cable then spooling it back on under load. Said load often another truck.
on top roller
I have a weird question. Would it be more economical to just fabricate a new bracket?
when you have it on the bench installing the rollers, can't you see it is twisted! gloves when using never-seize
Fabricobbled😁 I've been doing this for years and never knew the word for it 🇬🇧🍻
Why not move the roller assembly to the top of the frame instead of under it?
From what I see , start with cutting and fix the problem first then rework the rollers
What is the cleaner you have in your squirt bottle?
Can you put the fairlead on top ?
It seems like it would be better to feed the cable from the top and center your rollers on the top of crossmember where the alignment would be even on both sided.
33:49 It was not the project that was done, but the work that this project designed was done. Today, the word "project" is incorrectly equated with the work performed on its basis.