Excavator Repair. Let’s Fix This Sloppy Hoe! Yanmar Vio-50.
2022 ж. 21 Шіл.
769 391 Рет қаралды
This was a pretty involved fix, more than I was expecting when I started on it. Isn't that always the case? I got it done though, and also fixed several other problems like the thumb, side cutter, and grease zerks.
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Did you notice that spry of hydraulic fluid at the beginning?
We had a similar rock that kept destroying lawn mower blades in our side yard back in the 70s. Father decided one weekend to get rid of it. Turned out it was 5 ft in diameter. We reduced that sucker to rubble with a manual star drill and a sledge hammer (free kid labor). As soon as you pointed to the top of that one I knew the story.
Could you include a link to the tick socks video for us phone viewers?
@@zowiefenderblast4602 I will put it in the description too. kzhead.info/sun/iqingLl8iYN9oGw/bejne.html
Thank you from a ticky midwest place
Hey mate thanks for the channel shout out we appreciate it! 😎👊 You did a good job there working with what you had. Before the lineboring setup that's how I used to do it, boring in the milling machine. The lineborer has definitely made life easier! 😂 keep up the great videos 😎👍
hey carl 😂
@@polishingturds 😆
I came to the comments to recommend the CEE channel. (*edit- Wasn't patient enough to see that it was in the video 🤦♂️) Give Homie some scritches for me!
👋 good
Just a thought, could you have used taper wedges to split the top of the rock? Liked the video,keep them coming.
You can weld cups around your grease fittings that are exposed to prevent them from breaking off and getting damaged just a tip.
does not matter if your country sink then grease fitting you looking at build up with dirt in the holes they are not a right or wrong way to do it how any time i had to change out the grease fitting when the damaged by Debra too
I have welded a large nut over a exposed grease fitting. It does fill up with dirt/wood but it's never broken.
use a nut
Just as an important note, that quick attach housing is loose because the pin is supposed to be statinary. It is supposed to turn with the pin. There are no bushings in there for a reason. Your pin is supposed to have a hole drilled in it to hold a split pin. That is why one of the bosses had a hole in the casting. If you leave it like that it will wear out again, grease or not. The only part of the pin supposed to move is the bushings in the stick and the thumb.
The first side he bored on the mill had a hole which should have had a pin though it and a matching hole (missing?) in the main pin to stop it rotating. The rear pin had an "ear" and a bolt holding the pin in and stopping it turning which will be why it wasn't as worn.
Most excavator have a pad that is big enough to fit your heal on as well as your toe. Fun watch
At 8:25 it looks like you can see the hole in the pin. Not sure how the hole in the casting and matching hole in the pin didn't set off a light bulb. But I've missed obvious stuff too.
Suggestion for that rock: use your drill to drill a couple of vertical holes in it that will fill with rain water. If your area ever freezes in the winter (or with some external help, LN/propane/dry ice) the freezing will eventually break the top of the rock.
They have a cement mortar that does that. It expands when it cures, sold for rock breaking.
@@12345NoNamesLeft Its called Expando, or that is one brand anyhow.
Go Egyptian style, hammer in a wood wedge then get it wet, it will break the rock when it expands. Or use the fancy expando stuff or whatever those guys are talking about.
The rock will gradually work its way up so generations of people will have to deal with it a few inches at a time. Or someone can deal with it all at once.
Explosives? No one needs to know you used them, unless you put on KZhead, then you get into trouble. But you just show rock, then no rock anymore!
Blow the rock up!!!! I vote explosives and Overwhelming Force!
Funny you say that. I've tried blowing up rocks with black powder before without success. I can't get hold of anything better. Wish I had a friend who was a demolition expert!
@@FarmCraft101 Have you tried using demolition grout?
@@FarmCraft101 anfo is easy to make but to set it off is the harder part.
@@FarmCraft101 have you tried tannerite?
Don't they sell half and quarter sticks of dynamite or it's equivalent to you farmers still or is that not a thing anymore?
Mate, absolutely amazing effort fixing the slop in that bucket. Even though we all wish we had a workshop like Cutting Edge Engineering, you did an amazing job with your mill and lathe. Seeing the bit drop in both times was chef kiss perfect, and then working with the imperfection to get the job done ... impressive! Subscribed and liked, please make another video on how you fix up the track. All the best from land down under.
Was just thinking about how this is a job for CEE …if they weren’t on different continents haha
@@buildingsalvage Continents, and price range. I love CEE (and Homie), as do we all, as we rightly should. But to CEE, KZhead is secondary, they're a business, remember the workshop he has that we wish FarmCraft had? CEE caters to a very very boutique and heavily government subsidized market + there's a material shortage (so costs even more). The time CEE would have spent lineboring, welding, lineboring, freeze-fit, on the pin ears for this Yanmar Stick, for the money it is that you THINK they should be doing it for, he could have spent the same time and effort doing the same exact thing for 5-10 times more because that's how much their customers are willing to pay. CEE and FarmCraft could have practically been neighbors and it wouldn't have made any difference unless they were friends doing favors to one another. Not to put CEE or FarmCraft (who did an excellent repair btw) in negative light or anything of course, and if CEE wants to correct me on anything that I've said, they're free to do just that.
nice work, just for future reference, you can use your lathe as an impromptu line bore, as long as your bed travel is at least double the width of the part, you need to make a solid bar that you can run between centers with cutters added through the bar in 1 or more locations. takes a bit to set up but once used to it you will get perfect bore alignment every time.
Keith Fenner has a few videos on this
Line boring in a centre lathe farmyard style: kzhead.info/sun/qbysXcOnqJaNioE/bejne.html
Thanks man, I just might use that tip.
another option for the milling solution... bore & bush one side complete then attach that side to the mil table. Insert a straight, close-fit rod in that completed bushing that extends up through the now upper socket and indicate the rod to locate its bore center.
@@marvkaye I had a similar thought, though your idea is probably a bit easier.
I love your videos Bro. I'm 70 yrs now and I grew up on a farm. We fixed our equipment in the field where ever they broke down. We had only the tools on board. You would LAUGH at some of the things we used. But we made it work !! HoooAH ?
You need to get yourself a set of feather and wedges. You just drill a line of holes a few inches apart, insert the wedges, then hit them in sequence. The rock will crack off pretty much in line with your holes. You could have dug a foot or so down and popped the top right off that rock.
kzhead.info/sun/rMmvidxscHtqaoU/bejne.html&ab_channel=DanHurd
This "feathering" process is thousands of years old and is astonishingly effective on rocks and even concrete without steel reinforcement. I had to do this once where the extra concrete not used in my house foundation was dumped by the contractor. A foot thick and 3 feet long chunk in a very unfortunate location that just had to go.
It's not much, but I did manage to change the water filter in my refrigerator this week. I'm slowly working my way up to projects like yours! 😸😸😸
Yep....I use to think I was a great DIY guy until you see stuff like this.
Can't believe I just sat through 45 minutes of someone repairing a sloppy bushing on an excavator. But I did. And I enjoyed it. Cool to see insight into DIY repairs needed on a family farm. Add this to Abom and OldTony as one of my new favorites.
I know this is too late for this repair, but I thought of a way to get that pin centered in the oblong holes. 1. Repair one side with a new bushing, then insert the pin so it sticks out of the second side just a little. 2. Drop the new bushing onto the pin, then mark where it goes. 3. Machine the oblong second hole so you can insert the bushing. It should be lined up quite nicely, even if it's off a tad. But it should be pretty close to dead on. I like your videos because they show me things that interest me, and which I have never or hardly ever attempted. Thank you for sharing! After having watched a number of your videos, I'm subbing on this one.
These videos just get better and better. What a boss repair! Also love the way you speed up the lengthy parts, without missing what's happening. Found some other channels which haven't realized this trick.
I've been watching you're videos for a while now and I know you had some difficulties getting traction a while back. I have to say the sheer quality of your videos is really excellent! I hope your channel is getting the numbers it deserves.
Well, one track still needs repair so he still has traction issues.
Im an 81 yr old x machinist.. seeing all your equipment and machinery sure makes me wish I cld go back and do it agn..
In my opinion, the quick coupler hole was worn becouse an incorrect fitting. The pin should stay stationary with the coupler, you can see that from the fact that the coupler had holes for insert a bolt to stop the rotation of the pin. When they installed the finger has removed that feature and now the pin stay stationary with the stick arm and wear the bore. Recentrly, Dirt perfect has installed a new thumb to his new hyundai and he welded a piece to the coupler and the pin has ear to engage in it to avoid that problem. Your video are ansome, truly they are! Better and better!
For the rock: Drill some vertical holes from the top. Either stuff them with real dry wood and wet it afterwards, or fill in some rock breaker expanding stuff. Enjoyed as always. Weekend Stuff
A couple of shotgun shells as TNT would do the trick also.
a few wedges in each of the holes struck in a line would split the beast with out much effort. Its the way old quarry men used to hue rock
Look up feather and wedge. That and your hammer drill makes easy work of breaking rock. Dan Hurd on KZhead has some videos on their use
@@footplate0 right feather and wedges.
Look into Dexpan, available from Walmart, Grainger, others.
i would have the removed the side blades completely cause when you want to dig a nice ditch for cables or piping they are very anoying. But as always, nice vid and greetings from a German operator! Edit: plz dont slam stuff with the excavator or you will need new bushings and a plan to fix cracks very soon.
he should also avoid moving things sideways with a high load aswell, the stick and bom bushings does not like that and probably is what most of the other wobble is coming from.
@@John-yo7kh nah using the machine for that is fine. Holding the bucket flat and swinging from left to right to grade is way worse, as well as slamming or pressing the side of the bucket into something
@@timvolkmer1121 ain't that included in what i just wrote, moving things sideways with a high load... grading or moving stuff sideways with a low load is usually fine but should be avoided because they are not built for it.. Greetings from a swedish ew180c operator with a rototilt.
My father, many,many, years ago taught me. When you need to repair it, if it’s dirty wash it first. If it’s greasy wash it twice first. It makes the job much easier and enjoyable.
EVERYBODY should be heading to your patreon NOW because you deserve $20 for this level of informational content! so good! DAMN this is an AWESOME video! I was 9 minutes in and I checked the runtime and was so glad to see you would be including all the details. SO MUCH TO LEARN from this, how you handle the faces, how you thought ahead for grease, making second hole smaller to allow for migration of hole - really man I cannot overstate how awesome, enjoyable and eye-opening this video is, your channel was always a fav but these are legendary level videos of late, I can tell you've really done something amazing.
Dynamite to the rock would have been great! Maybe not to the level of Andrew Camatera, but still... Amazing work on the bucket. I am totally here for that type of content. You are seriously a man of MANY skills.
here in argentina it is 2$ per dynamite stick. 😆
A quarter of a century ago I would blast rocks like that as a hobby. Sadly, things have changed.
In Japan (I’ve lived here 32 years) the tapered pipe threads are all inch. The story I’ve heard is that after the war, a lot of old tooling was shipped to Japan from the US to help rebuild the country. Love the videos. Cheers from Tokyo!
You're absolutely right. Not only in Japan but also in Europe, in countries that never converted from imperial for the simple reason that they have always been metric, tapered thread pipe is all imperial.
When removing those two small pins for the small quick release cylinder, instead of hammering away at it use long bolt like you did, but let it do the work for you by putting a socket that's bigger than the hole you're pulling from and a nut to back the socket. Hold the bold and tighten the nut. It'll pull the pin right out regardless if it's held by setscrews.
just what I was going to add
On the Fourth of July, drill a 3/4 inch hole in the top of that rock as deep as you can. Fill it with black powder, put a long fuse in it, pile on a couple of large sand bags and light it at dusk. That rock will never be a problem for you again. Less than an hour work. Nice work with the sleeves on the bucket, I am impressed.
An old timer once told me the best way to crack/break a rock was by building a fire around the rock and once the rock is hot from the fire to pour water on it. The difference in temperature cracks the rock open. Another enjoyable video, Thanks for sharing.
Curtis is an amazing machinist!
Very nice job, good tip with the tap.
You are definitely one of my favorite new channels, thank you. So many satisfying moments in this video and all the ones I've seen so far. May you algorithm be blessed.
Hi, to get out the two smaller pins, remove snap rings and set screws, pump grease into Zerk ,grease comes out of the small hole at the bottom of the pin through small hole pushing out the pin.
Any excavator I've run that was new enough for foot pedals has them come far enough back so you can step down on them to reverse. I'd guess that the actual pedals are missing and what you have there is just the bracket that the rubber or plastic was supposed to attach to. Still better than my old CAT E70 that you just have to angle your foot against the lever though. Well done on the bushings there, that would have been an expensive replacement or even repair from a machine shop.
I was thinking something similar. Does something fit over those foot petals that allows you to place your entire foot down and tilt forward and back.
I also have a Yanmar, albeit smaller, a Vio17, and it is the same thing. The pedals are absolutely garbage and the angles are not ergonomic at all. I even had to cut and modify the armrests because they were the same way. I've seen a bunch of them and they're all the same. Don't think anything is missing here.
@@Sugarkryptonite Crazy. I always hear about how good Yanmars are but I guess it's mostly the newer ones. Maybe he can make a good video about jerry rigging some pedals onto it lol
@@nathancook5354 No, they are good machines, even back to the older ones like Andrew Camarata has which is quite a bit older than this one. Ergonomics were their weak point.
Great channel, glad I bumped into it. Really enjoy the commentary and your problem-solving skills are top-notch.
Kurtis is definitely proud of you. Absolutely great job fixing and improving the original design.
Love your videos man! I'm a retired millwright and I really enjoy repairing stuff, better than making new stuff. Very satisfying to save stuff from going to the dump, besides the ridiculous prices on new stuff.
Same boat as JB just not a retired millwright. But still employed Millwright
When you were digging out the rock when you pick the bucket up in the air and smash down on it there is a knuckle between the boom and the cab is only cast steel so it will break under Big sudden impact just pointing it out and on the petals of the machine for going backwards just look up another brand of excavator and you’ll see what they have👍
Loved watching that pin drop in. Super satisfying.
I just found your channel and love your videos! It's so relaxing hearing the birds chirping in the background too.
Excavator guy here Your track controls should have a bottom foot piece that your heel can push down on to track backwards hooking the top with your foot is definitely not the way to go. My CAT has fixed pedals and my bobcat has folding ones, so check if there's mounting holes to fabricate a heel pedal. If not, your best bet is to create one
Agggghhhh just track one way.😁
I thought the .002 interference fit was too much but was impressed with how you did it. After you bored the first hole I would have made a fixture with just a round plug screwed it down through the center of it to the mill bed and then indicated my spindle to it. Then used that to locate the center for the other bushing hole. Also I would not have drilled the zerk fitting holes where you did because of weaking that part. I would have drilled the pin and put the zerk fitting in the end and had a hole come out into the middle of each bushing for grease.
I thought about an eccentric bushing for one side, that he could have bored on the mill with the needed offset.
Super skilled! Best feeling knowing it fixed right.
I always learn from your teachings. Great video, thanks!
I love watching cutting edge engineering as well. Curtis is great. ive been enjoying watching you fix up your excavator keep up the awesome videos
Really well done repair! I watch Cutting Edge Engineering as well and most of us don’t have the tools at our disposal that Kurtis does as part of his business. I love how you adapt and overcome each obstacle and understand when good enough is what’s needed. I’ve really come to appreciate watching your channel and have applied some of your lessons learned to my shop and property. Thanks so much for taking the time to share!!
You are amazing. A jack of all trades. Love watching you work.
I knew the recommended channel "cutting edge" before watching your videos... But it's impressive, what you have done with your Limited machinery...
It looks like the easiest way to pull those pins out would be pumping grease after removing the snap ring.
Good thinking! 👍
After loosening the set screws that he found.
Pretty sure that's why they're NPT thread - to thread in grease nipples. Pump grease in, grease pushes the pins out from the back.
Peanut butter or coconut oil, which is solid when cool, both make less messy and less expensive substitutes for grease to do the pushing. I even used bread, made into a mush, for smaller jobs.
@@jjock3239 Do you fill a grease gun with peanut butter or coconut oil? It takes quite a bit of pressure to get those pins out (though maybe less if you remove the set screws!) - I don't see how else you'd get enough pressure on it to actually make it work? I've seen the bread trick before - you need to use some kind of a punch to force the bread in, and I'd think you'd damage the threads on the pins doing it that way in this case.
Your vids are getting fantastic. It's great to watch your repair triumphs in a world prone to quick disposal and replacement. Keep up the fine work!
Absolutely love watching any one use a lathe and milling machine of any kind ,it's such precise work when done too the epitome of it.
Gotta say. It is inspiring to watch you work. People who work with their hands and minds are mesmerizing.
Hi, i am from Germany. Nice Work. I have a Yanmar B37V the complete diesel tank was rusty inside. all filters were always clogged. Last week I cut out the tank and I built a new tank out of 1.4571 stainless steel in the same size like the Original. it was a lot of work but it was worth it. I keep my fingers crossed for you in the future. P.S. Kurtis from CEE is Great! 👌
Great fix on the bucket, you have excellent machining skills. The new Yanmar excavators have a flip down pedals on the rear of the pedal, take a look at one at the dealership next time you're there and I'm sure making a set will be a walk in the park after fixing the bucket pins. Next time you need to bust a rock try Dexpan.👍 Great content!
Gorgeous aerial view of that land at the end
The attention to detail is incredible!
Found your channel a couple weeks ago. Had time this weekend to watch some videos. Been bingeing hard. I love your content. Relevant to all my interests. Your videos are pure no nonsense information. Excellent editing. Always to the point. Subscribed. Thank you for the time you take to make these for the general public like myself. I’m hooked. Cheers!
That was an incredible amount of skill and effort that went into fixing the bucket slop. I was not expecting such an in depth repair. I would've had to just try to find a new part or go to a great machine shop.
Thank you for the great enteresting things you do on your show very enteresting to watch.
I love your "You gotta do it till you do it so ya better get to it" attitude - only way to get it done most of the time. Well done!!!
Totally getting better and better with all the videos- really digging this channel :) keep up the great work, one of my favorite channels!
great work done there and a fantastic improvement in the bucket. One method you could have used to get the alignment of the second hole is to use a dti to 'clock' the already machined lower hole. You'd need to mount a long shaft say 3/4" diameter in the mill spindle and attach a dti to the bottom end of it just above the lower hole. Adjust the table position to zero the dti and the mill spindle is exactly on the lower hole. Refit the boring head in the spindle again and the second hole will be bang on center to the first. Keep up the good work . Looking forward to the next installment.
That's exactly what i was thinking about in me head! KZhead is so great to see other machinists work and then to see comments from machinists about said work. Much can be learned :)
I was thinking the same thing as I watched this. Not sure if he has a DRO on his mill, which may have helped him get close enough to use the DTI to zero in on the bottom hole, assuring alignment of the yet to be bored upper one.
So Wise , Thank You . A fine example of so many things
I can learn a lot by watching you work 👍
I've got a Yanmar B27...3 ton so a bit smaller than yours, but have had to deal with similar repair challenges. The worst was when one of the idlers collapsed so that was a big learning curve...actually, I think it's now more repair than original. So I really love these digger videos as I'm picking up quite a few valuable points for upcoming repairs and maintenance. Thank you!
Most mini excavators have a galley in the pin and you grease the whole shebang with the hole in the pin, so they didn't install grease zerks in the moving part. Also, before you welded it up, there were holes for a retaining pin through the bore on the outside, these are to hold the pin in place so the pin rotates in the stick, not the bucket end. Your setup was probably altered when they put the thumb on there and the pin is no longer fixed to the bucket end, so it wore. That's why there were no bushings in the bucket end to begin with, it was designed to be static with relation to the pin.
That was exactly what I was thinking, the rear pin of the coupler as a locking bolt that keeps the pin from rotating in the coupler, so all the rotation is between the pin and rear linkage. The original pin for that coupler was likely similar so no rotation happened between the coupler and pin (no need for grease or zerks then), just the end of the stick and pin. The longer pin for the thumb changed that and the coupler was not designed with replaceable bushings like in the end of the stick, so the cast coupler wore easily against the hardened pin. Hopefully the "new" bushings in the coupler will "wear" better with the grease zerks added. Probably would have been a good idea to machine a shallow grove inside those "bushings" in the coupler that aligned with the new grease zerks to make sure grease gets ALL the way around the pin (not just mostly on one side....) That is the most wearing joint on the whole machine.... Just keep that pin REALLY well greased!! All that said, great job on the repair!! On the foot pedals, just weld some extensions on the rear portion of those pedals that are horizontal (parallel to the floor), so that the heel of your foot can rest on them and push down for reverse. On many machines they are hinged so you can flip them up to lay on the portion of the pedal you already have, so they don't take up extra floor space. But if you are going to use them, they do really need to be flipped up "out-of-the-way"....
You are the man thank you to take your own time and make a video of your experience work. Amazing. Thank you so much.
Props to the machinist ingenuity using the equipment you have!
Larger Excavators have full sized foot ‘plates’ on the travel pedals that makes it comfortable to use forwards or backwards. I can see the video does not show just how much work there was in doing that ‘line-bore’ job, but it’s done now and you must be happy with the results. Great video.
The Vio 35, a little smaller than this machine, also has plates that extend backward and up a bit so you can move the tracks backward. On all the machines, up to the 349 cat, my brother and I walk them backwards if we have any distance to go. It is more comfortable to pull the handles or push my feet straight down instead of away from me.
@@CGT80 well every excavator operator should know your undercarriage is wearing 3x more when travelling backwards. That is because of the top side of the tracks are being put to tention and bushes are turning under tention inside of the sprocket tooth. That is not happening when travelling forward. I think with a rubber track machine it does not make a difference, but with steels it sure does.
@@megape95 I will have to ask my brother if he has heard of that, since he is the well seasoned operator. Our company owns the mini ex but sold off their 320 and we rent the others as needed. The mini is what really gets walked a lot while the others don't usually have to go more than a few minutes across a work area. Thanks for the tip!
I like this style of content. You are a man of many talents, thank you for sharing your skills with us. I have been watching cutting edge machine for a couple years now and that guy has some amazing equipment to work with. I hope you get that machine all sorted out its japanese so it should last a lifetime. Have a good weekend!
Amazing video, you got me with the math to heat/freeze and install the bushing. You for sure have the tools to fix just about anything that breaks down on a farm, which is just about everything on mine. I wish you lived close my farm, I would pay you to fix my sloppy excavator bucket. Great job and very interesting video!
I don’t have any of the ability, equipment and tools that you and others like you but I know exactly what y’all are doing and I just thoroughly love to watch. Just fascinating!
The last mini excavator that I rented had a pivot point for foot operation. You may be able to simulate this by adding a leverage point on the bottom of the foot placement like the top one. This would possibly allow your heel to naturally pull back without hooking your toes.
8:43 my thoughts exactly. yeah, i know what a line borer is. cutting edge engineering in australia uses one. 24:14 yep, that's the one i was talking about! 37:05 you're doing it wrong. in my job training i was told to hold the bolt and turn the nut. 40:52 more challenging than you thought? that rock puts up quite a fight. 42:18 man, that thing is STUBBORN. it just REFUSES to give up. if that rock is still a problem next winter, drill some holes into the top, fill them with water and let it freeze. no rock can withstand that kind of stress. repeat as necessary.
Temperature difference for fitting was amazing. Very cool stuff.
That bushing fitting in was SWEET.. awesome job
You're doing great with the old Yanmar. One of my best homemade tools is a pair of vice grips with a nut welded on top. I thread a small slide hammer into the nut and pop loose anything I can get the grips on. Works great on oddball projects like this and very simple. I even use it for stubborn cotter pins. Might be something you can use.
6:15 It more likely could be a BSPT 1/8” -27 thread. That’s what my Kawasaki small engine seems to be. NPT and BSTP are nearly identical with small differences. But they might have used a standard 1/8” not for easy replacements since the grease fittings might get damaged.
Yes it is British standard pipe thread
This guy is a Wizard! Love your vids and always learn something watching them. Thanks!
Love “Cutting Edge Engineering Australia” .. he and his pupper dog turn out some amazing work on some huge parts! .. you did an awesome job on this.. great work
When welding a heavy piece like that(repairing the cracked component) what you can do is use three or more runs instead of one huge weld. This means a smaller heat affected zone (because subsequent welds anneal the previous ones). This results is less hardening and a weld that is less likely to crack. I might have ground out a bigger weld prep and then used three small runs. Its a small thing but the previous welds did crack, so it is a point of stress. Your welds will probably hold, but next time - for the sake of 5 minutes extra work...
Keith Fenner has 2-3 videos of making a set up to line bore on the lathe. They are well worth the watch.
Well done on your bushing craft. That was so smooth dude.
Most bigger excavators have rocker-looking foot pedals. Some of the smaller-cab mini's omitted that (especially earlier Japanese manufacturers). Make a new set of foot pedals that are symmetrical, so you can track backwards by rocking your foot back. You might need to adjust the angle of the pedal, as forwards-only style pedals are usually mounted very vertically, and you need them mounted a lot more horizontal to be comfortable in both directions. I've done it on an old little Kobelco Gatekeeper before.
Great work and making due with what you have to work with. I like that. I worked with Yanmar marine and industrial in Vancouver for a lot of years. Good products.
Nicely done. Thanks for sharing.
Very good job! Harbor freight did sell a tap ratchet with sliding handles. Great tool.
I used to dig out big, annoying rocks but recently I've realized it is much easier to just dig a big hole beside the rock and roll it into it. This technique works well for me and one big benefit is I typically don't need to reposition my backhoe...
Great video, and first thing I thought of when you mentioned what you needed done was CEEs channel. I love watching Kurtis work his magic.
I like watching your channel you always do a good job you don't take shortcuts well done
John, you could've had fun with Dynamite on that rock. My Dad used to drill holes and pack them with Dynamite. He'd blow up rocks and stumps all the time, but he always told ME to drill holes and wait until winter to fill them with water and let nature do the work. Another fun video watching all the machining but I am glad you did the tail end with the rock and stump to give it the final purpose. I always look forward to you videos. ben/ michigan
Very nice home repair. You do the best with the tools you have...
Nice repair job. I enjoyed watching you and. appreciate your video. I am a machinist and you did a great job machining the bushings.. your lucky to have a. well equipped shop. I watched your first video when you first brought your machine home. you did all the things i would do after purchasing an old unit, clean repair and do maintenance. keep the videos coming. I like how you work.
Glad to see Someone else that watches Kurtis! By far my favorite machinist.
Great job on the repair! And I appreciate the stubbornness on the rock! I would have done the same thing! Keep the videos coming! Scott
Love the content. I’m a mechanic on forklifts and man lifts etc. I’ve machined bushings like in this video Welded up buckets, both dirt and ice types. Learned a few little time savers. Your living my dream. God bless and thanks!
You were on the right track drilling holes in your rock. You just needed some feathers and wedges to split the rock. They work great and much safer than a chisel and sledgehammer. Great video, I keep learning things from you.
Good everything! You’re a handy guy. I want a (new) excavator for the farm (and you as a BFF) to keep it running.
We have chiggers in the tall grass of our Texas cattle pastures. They are hell on a guy working on fence lines. We use an old sock filled with powdered sulphur ( powdered sulphur is available on the internet) and dust of feet/ankles/leg before we put on our work socks. We then put on the work socks and dust the outside of the work sock and the lower leg of our jeans. We enjoy your videos and wish we had all the tools and equipment you have in your shop and your smarts on how to use them.
Nice work using what you got on hand, I dont have a lathe so my stuff is not like that but I can get it close with a drill, and bench grinder. Maybe I will get a lathe next year
Good job on the video and the repair. I know that it took a lot of time but it was worth your efforts. You did the best that you could with what you had. I think that the rock is so hard that even if you had a jackhammer on the excavator, it would not brake. It sure is something how rocks grow when you go to dig them up. It is interesting to see your talents in motion.
Had to do track repairs on a Terex skid steer, bought a bench press, as well as pullers and presses, best spent money. Have a 5.5 ton kobelco so will be watching more of your videos.
You make it look so easy awesome work