Repairing Broken Traces / PCB Trace Repair - Soldering Fix
Repairing broken traces is a clear soldering tutorial showing 4 different , neat soldering repair methods to fix your PCB traces , including a great transposed trace method + 2 great wiring methods.
Showing short step by step video guides for every method see how you can successfully repair your damaged / broken PCB traces to get your printed circuit boards up and running again. If you find this soldering tutorial of use please like and subscribe so as to not miss out on any future soldering releases by Mr Solderfix and don't forget to check out all of my other soldering tutorials showing a variety of different soldering repairs and techniques.
Thank you for your time , it's very much appreciated and good luck with all of your future soldering projects .
Mr Solderfix
#pcbtracerepair #pcbrepair #soldering
Really informative. Excellent camera work. The best I have seen in te business. Thank you.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
Back when I used my education for my job I use to make these repairs. I was a little more crude than how you did it, but the same repair basically. The worst one was a 14 pin IC was ripped from the board with just two pin holes left to attach the IC with. I got it done and it lasted for years. Great tutorial and I wish there was more need of this today since we live in a replacement society now instead of a repair society.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated . Hopefully my videos can help a few people out with their soldering / desoldering issues. If they can then that's great . You are right , it would be great if more people had a go at fixing some of their broken gadgets . Thanks again , take care 👍
I wish I'd found you earlier. This is superb. Great camera work and nice clear and informative commentary. Thank you!
Great video, I really enjoyed it. I've just finished repairing a board from a mates solar invertor. They were told they needed a whole new inverter for £1200, I managed to fix it for £31.
nice
Hi , thank you for your comment and support of my channel . It's great that you fixed an expensive problem , I'm always happy if I can do the same . I will always post more soldering videos when I can and hopefully people will enjoy the ones I post in the future . Thanks again , take care 👍
I love love love stores like this! Great skills save big bills👍🏾😎
Thank you so much for such a clear and detailed description of your repair methods. This makes me look forward to the next time I have a PCB to repair. I intend to use your methods. Thanks again.
Hi , thank you for your comment, very much appreciated. Hopefully I can help a few people out with these methods , if so then that's great . Thanks again , and good luck with all of your soldering projects 👍
Very nice high quality work. I have seen many online demonstrating their methods for these types of delicate track repairs and you are the best by far. 👍👍
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting, much appreciated. Hopefully these methods can help a few people out. It's definitely possible to make all kinds of track repairs look really neat and make them look like they belong on the board . Thanks again for your support, take care 👍
So unlucky to have so many damaged PCBs. 😄 Nice clean and solid fixes those. Clearly not do that before. Nice. 👌👍✌️🇬🇧
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. I do get lots of damaged PCB's and have somehow kept a massive amount from over the years . Handy for the videos though . Thanks again for supporting my channel , take care 👍
🤣🤣
Using solder to measure wire run length is genius! Thanks!
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoyed the video, I've used the solder trick to measure some weird shape tracks before , must admit it does work well . Thanks again , take care 👍
Hi. What if you use the solder wire itself as conductor and solder it to the PCB. Would that be ok?
Thanks for teaching, greetings from Taiwan fans!
Hi , thank you for watching the video , hopefully you found it useful . If I can help some people out then that's great . Thanks again , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 You are the best！💪💪💪
Hi , thank you for your support , it means a lot 👍
Total skill and patients.
Hi , thank you for supporting my channel , very much appreciated . If I can help a few people out with their soldering / desoldering issues then I'm happy . Thanks again , take care 👍
Thank you for sharing another great video with all the finer details.
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoyed the video , take care 👍
Fantastic tuition, keep up the good work.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
This deservers more love, I'm new to soldering myself but this is fucking insane im gonna practice trace repair what a crazy thing to be able to do god bless you brother
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoyed the video . Hopefully these methods can help a few people save their items , we can all try at least . Good luck with all your soldering projects , thanks again 👍
those are arts of done it right! simply beautiful! 😍
Hi , thank you for your comment, very much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoyed the video , I just wanted to show that a total disaster can actually be repaired to look like it was meant to be on the board all along . Thanks again , take care 👍
I really like your videos. They are very detailed and informative and I've learned a lot from them. Thanks.
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , very much appreciated. I'm glad the videos have helped you , hopefully they can also help a few others out as well . Good luck with all of your soldering projects in the future and thanks again 👍
I'm new to soldering and thought I ruined my device forever when I lifted the trace. Thank goodness for this video! It's super well done and imo more clear than other repair methods out there. Thank you!
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoyed the video and that it was useful to you . Thanks again , take care 👍
You are awesome. I’ve got a board where a usb header ripped off and took a bunch of traces with it. I’ve been too intimidated to try fixing it (those traces are _tiny_) but I think these tips will help. Thanks!
Just subscribed you. Well explained and video made with no hurries. You will make so many people a master in this. The more people learn the better our world will become. Thank you.
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. If I can help a few people with their soldering + desoldering issues , then I'm happy . I just like to share what I know and hopefully we can all improve together. Thanks again , take care 👍
Lovely work. You are an artist with a lot of patience! Thanks!
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. I just like to show that track repairs can be done really neatly and can even look like they belong on the board . Some patience and perseverance and we can all get there . Thank you again for your support of my channel , take care 👍
Very professional repair. Nice work.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated. Hopefully my videos can help a few people out with their soldering issues . Thanks again , take care 👍
Method 1. 10:00 Method 2. 15:00 Method 3. 25:15 Method 4. 31:45 If you are new to soldering you should definitely watch the whole video, he says some good stuff in their for absolute beginners. if you already got your feet wet soldering and just want to see some of the methods people use to repair traces bouncing through the methods to save time is for you. Great Video by the way. I will come back for future reference.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. If the video can help a few people out with their trace / track repairs then that's great . Thank you for breaking it down for viewers , very kind of you . Take care 👍
Very advanced restoration technique, amazing!
Hi , thank you. I'm glad you enjoyed the video . Thanks again for your support , take care 👍
Very nice work as always. Thankyou for the upload!!!!
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated . I'm glad you enjoyed the video , hopefully it can help a few people out with their trace issues . Thanks again for your support of my channel 👍
Really nice work as you always do. You can also brush on some liquid electric tape to the two exposed copper ends in repair one and the copper braid in repair 2.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated. It's always good when others share their thoughts , the more information we can get out there the better . Thanks again , take care 👍
What a work of art! Very informative video, not at all flashy - just good info and really great, results - thanks for taking the time to make the videos. Have subscribed, keep them coming!
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoy the videos. I will always post more when I get some spare time. Thanks again , take care 👍
Been a while since I've found a channel worth subscribing too ... loving the videos , keep it up fella 👍
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , very much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoy the videos , hopefully they can help a few people out with their soldering issues. Thanks again , take care 👍
Brilliant job
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated. Hopefully these different methods of trace repair can help a few people out with their PCB issues. Thanks again , take care 👍
Hello, thank you for another great video, I love watching you work, highly skilled with superb results every time and you make it look so easy. Greatly informative and very entertaining, thanks again.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoyed the video , hopefully it can help a few people out in the future. I will always post more when I get some spare time . Definitely with soldering the more you do the better you get and you start to learn about different size solders , tools etc that enable you to get better. Hopefully I can show a few useful tips within my videos that may help . Thanks again for your support , take care 👍
Marvellous stuff. And I never thought of adding the glue fixer first - great tip, thanks.
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. Glad you enjoyed the video . Definitely works adding the activator first , much stronger , tidier joint . Thanks again , take care 👍
Those are nice and neat repairs.
Hi , thank you. I showed a few different methods , hopefully they can help people out with their trace repairs . Thanks again , take care , 👍
Very nice work.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. Hopefully these methods can help a few people out with their trace repairs , if so I will be happy . Thank you for your support of my channel, take care 👍
Thank for sharing the skill and technique and this really good for me is new to solering.
Hi , thank you for your comment. I hope you get on ok with all of your soldering projects , and thanks for watching the video 👍
You need a microscope and a steady hand for this kind of work. Excellent job you made there.
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated 👍
Most people find that once the magnification is sufficient the hand steadiness follows. It's uncanny how easily hand eye coordination adjusts to much smaller movement once you try it a few times. Good practice is to carefully put a very fine point on a pencil and write out a paragraph as small as you can using whatever microscope or binocular magnifier you're comfortable with. You'll instantly be amazed that your brain is so easily fooled into making very small and accurate movements.
Beautiful work, thx!
Great one again ,,,I am subscribed
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , very much appreciated 👍
Beautiful work.
Hi , thank you for your comment, very much appreciated. Hopefully these methods can be of use to people to help them with their repairs . Thanks again , take care 👍
Excellent! I really enjoy watching these videos. Wonderful work. Im just getting into this side of electronics and love the detail you put into this. Kudos my friend.
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , very kind of you . I'm glad you enjoy the videos , I will post more when I get some spare time. Thanks again, take care 👍
Nice work. I am going to try this myself. I have done the first method but the other three are brilliant. I have some scrap boards to practice on.
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoyed the video and found it useful . You are doing the best thing in practicing, that's what I've done lots of over the years . Definitely improves your skills . Good luck with all of your soldering projects in the future , thanks again , take care 👍
İt's always pleasure to watch noce works. You should make a video about special traces like power, signal, RF etc. And which way is better to patch up
Hi , thank you for your comment much appreciated. Some traces it's quite hard to show , i.e RF traces . From personal experience a tiny amount different from the original can have a massive effect on board results so it would be almost impossible to get this over to people . But I like your suggestion though so thank you for that 👍
Awesome good mate I am in CT watching this and I need the tools and I can do this nice work to look great and u make good money for this repairs!!!
Great work!
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated 👍
Great Job and very helpfull
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. Glad you found the video useful 👍
very informative and very well presented, well done.
Hi , thank you. I'm glad you enjoyed the video and found it useful. If the video can help a few people fix their traces then I'm happy. Thanks again for your time , take care 👍
You did tremendously well.nice rock.... Great apprauch.Thank you very much indeed.
Hi , thank you for all your support of my channel , it's really appreciated. I'm glad you always enjoy the videos . I will always put more up when I get any spare time . Thanks again , take care 👍
Great Video👍🏻 Very Helpful!!
Hi , thank you, I'm glad you enjoyed the video and found it useful , thank you for watching 👍
New to this channel and first video watched. Your awesome bro. Keep'em coming.
Hi , thank you for your comment, very much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoyed the video . My videos have got better as I've gone along ( clarity , sound etc ) hopefully this comes across . Thanks again , take care 👍
I always use a fiberglass pen to clean resist of tracks. Copper tape is really useful for track repairs.
Thanks for useful video. I have a request: can you make a USB pads reparation?
Hi , thank you for your comment. In the future I will try and do a video like you've mentioned. Thanks for the idea , take care 👍
Melhor que vi ate agora, trabalho limpo e bem feito, eu uso folha de cobre fina, faço a trilha no Proteus imprimo transfiro para o cobre e colo no lugar da trilha queimada funciona e fica quase perfeito
Отличная работа!!!
Nice one👍
Hi , thank you, I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Your comment is very much appreciated , thanks again , take care 👍
I mostly use the technique with the decoder stranded wire. Sometimes I paint with conductive silver. Many greetings.
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. There is many ways to repair traces , I'm glad you've got a couple of favourites of your own . I will probably show more in the future . Thanks again 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 You need a solder system? kzhead.info/sun/ZdqphL2Ze3mjdqs/bejne.html
The best repair video by far thanks for sharing your skills and knowledge 👍
Hi , thank you. I'm glad you enjoyed the video . If I can help a few people with these methods then that's great . Many thanks for your support , take care 👍
Brilliant M8... I started in electronics back i early 80,s So hadnt done component repair for nearly 40 years... Back in the game now so its a learning curve.. Any tips on getting DIP out... They cause me major grief as cant damage rare pcbs
Nice and helpful, as always! Thanks for the effort. Here's my particular problem... maybe because I'm so clumsy as I try to fix this amplifier, pulling the power transistors out, back in, out again... and the board is decades old. So all the trauma has broken the pads loose; they come out with the transistor, or the pad is pulled up and the trace is broken away from the board for some length, or... the pad on the back just breaks loose with the heat and is lost. And the old board is saturated with flux and such; it's really a bit of a mess. I don't have a spare board to pull traces off, but I can probably work that out somehow. What puzzles me is how to attach the pads and traces. Originally, soldering to the pad, bonded to the. board, would provide some support for this big old transistor, but I can't think of a way to provide that original strength again; everything forming a nice tight connection, physically as well as electrically. Sometime when you feel like making a video, maybe you have a couple of ideas about this kind of repair to show us? Unfortunately not as tidy as some of your normal work! I do prefer clean boards, but... :-)
Hi , thank you for watching the video , much appreciated. Maybe you could try and fit a PCB insert ( PCB eyelet ) into the hole . They push in and then you flatten the other side down . Then your through hole part goes through this new barrel which is obviously tight in the board and can't come out . Then you can connect new traces , wires etc to the through hole parts leg. Could this be an answer for you ? Hopefully it could be . If so just Google PCB barrel inserts or PCB eyelets and you should find something the size you need . You can get tools to secure the other side or snip down about 1mm in 3 or 4 places and push down the flaps with a suitable tool .Thanks again , good luck 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Great idea! I've never used such things. Thanks very much; I'll give it a try!
Thank you for asking. My exact problem except that I dropped my piece of equipment. The impact caused 2 x 1-2mm copper pads of a rotary selector switch to come away from the board. With this hair frizzling, brain twitching issue at hand I'm like. Holy crap what can I do?! This may be the answer. Thank you for the advice OP. We appreciate your work and effort meticulously detailing various solutions. You are greatly appreciated.
Hi , no problem , good luck with your repair work , take care 👍
Was wondering what flux you are using thanks for posting.Nice working learned alot especially removing component sm boards
Hi , thank you for your comment. I have always used SMFL200D rework flux which is great but unfortunately it has recently been discontinued. I still have a small supply left but will be looking for a decent alternative in the near future . Once I find one I will post it on KZhead. Sorry I couldn't help you anymore than that . Thanks again , take care 👍
That's the best video on this subject that I've seen so far. I was sick of those videos talking only about using wires to fix the broken traces. Thank you very much, but I have a question, I watched the video skipping parts, not sure if you talked about that, but which glue could be used below the traces? I tried using super glue once, but it's toxic, not safe for soldering.
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. Like you say you have to be careful placing glue under the traces . I tend to solder the trace or wire in place and then glue afterwards still creating a strong bond . The glue I would normally use on PCB work is called Tak Pak , a 2 part ( glue + activator) substance , made really for PCB work . Available as a kit but cheaper if brought seperately on Amazon , eBay etc. I've used it in a few of my videos and I talk about how I use it for better results ( differently to the recommended way ) . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Is that glue the same as a superbonder?
Hi , I'm sorry I'm not sure on that one . Tak Pak is a great PCB glue as it can be removed if required but will stay strong if left alone . Sorry again that I couldn't answer your question .
@@mrsolderfix3996 No problem. I've noticed that there are two types of tak pak, one is a super bonder, the other one is for printed circuits, the thing is that I'm in Brazil, so it's hella expensive due to customs. Can you tell me which chemical compost the version for printed circuits uses? This way I might be able to do my own research here. Thank you for everything you've done so far.
Excellent video, I was wondering if you could demo how you might replace micro USB connectors and similar components? As always enjoy watching your talent working with soldering techniques. Also, what type of camera do you use for your close up soldering? Thank you so much for your content. Keep up the videos please!!!
ART! nothing else to say
Hi , thank you so much for watching and commenting on the video . Hopefully I can help a few people out . What I've learnt is if you can do a really neat fix it actually looks like it belongs on the board . Thanks again , take care 👍
Excellent informative presentation. I’m working on a board presently with a trace damaged and I will purchase some enameled wire and try to give it a go. No promises but want to learn. Will go to my Digikey account and see what I can purchase. Been watching and rewatching to try and grasp everything. I will also check to see if they have TacDon glue and accelerator. Thanks for sharing it keeps me busy in my retirement and all that is going on. Plus I enjoy just learning new skills. Any recommendations for a microscope nothing to fancy but the eyes aren’t what they use to be LOL Artie 👍
Great vid! I've got a board that has some damaged pins but they're unlike anything I've seen before. Rather than being soldered to the board, they're actually small rivets and the connection is made to the board by the friction of the rivet. The connector mates directly to them and the rivets have become loose causing intermittent operation. I think if you soldered the rivets, the weight of the connector would stress the rivets and they'd pop off again. I thought about replacing the "rivet" with a small screw/nut instead (maybe brass?) and smoothing the threads to make a sort of pin. Any thoughts on a good repair?
What is a no clean gel Flux for,enjoy watching,you are very detailed
Great videos. Thanks for sharing such great info. For the copper wire fix, can you recommend a cheap way to cover the copper so that it does not oxidize over time? I figure maybe putting Tak Pak over the whole piece would work BUT that stuff looks quite expensive. Would CA glue work? I am also looking at UV Curing Solder Mask Ink as a way to do it. Or maybe just solder the entire length of copper? Thanks Brian
Hi , thank you for your comment. The small copper wire that was shaped to fit the missing trace is in fact enamel coated so it's protected . If it was uncoated you could like you say use solder mask , tin the whole length of the wire or you are right you could glue the whole length . I use Tak Pak but it is expensive ( about £50 for a small twin pack ) . Maybe solder mask is the best option here . Thanks again , take care 👍
Perfect
Hi , thank you for your comment and supporting my channel , very much appreciated . All I want to do is help people out with their soldering , desoldering issues. If I can then that's great . Thanks again , take care 👍
@mrsolderfix3996 Thank you engineer You are a noble person Sure , I am careful 🙏🪻
Hi , no problem , take care 👍
Would there be any reason to cover the braid patch or wire ends with the tacdown or something else to insulate the repairs?
Hi , thank you for your comment. Yes you could do if needed with solder mask , tak Pak etc , I thought I mentioned this , but maybe I didn't. If the new joints have nothing close by that may short out then probably not necessary , but wouldn't hurt to protect new joints. Thanks again 👍
What size soldering tip are you using? It looks finer than any of the tips I've managed to find.
Hi , thank you for your comment. I've gone against what everyone believes here. I use a Weller TCP S 50 watt iron and the tips for this particular iron you can actually needle file down very carefully until you get a lovely fine conical end. I use a PTP7 tip which is conical to start with but I file it down slightly to get it finer . Lots of people say you can't file tips etc because you destroy the coating , well you obviously can . I also own a Metcal soldering station and have also filed them down previously with great success. I'd say if your struggling and you have a spare tip try shaping it slightly with a needle file or Emery cloth until you get the desired shape. I'm not saying you can do this with every make of iron but it's worth a try . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
5:50 Could you have used one of those syringes with silver conductor with some tape, and "paint" a new trace?
thank you for the video, may i ask what is the model of the camera you are using?
Hi, what are the sizes for the copper wires I should get for those traces? Would 0.5mm suffice?
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . The green wire used in this video was 28 gauge Kynar wire . I basically always try and match the width of the existing trace when I'm repairing with modification wires . This can be pretty important . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
Wow! I’m amazed at your level of skills. I’m curious about your soldering station (what brand) and to what temperature you set your iron. Thank you for posting this! I subscribed.
Hi , thank you for your comment and subscribing , very much appreciated. I mainly use a Weller TCP S soldering iron which comes with a selection of Tips. I use a PTP7 ( small conical ) and a DD8 ( large flat sided ) mainly. Temperature I generally use is 330 degrees centigrade for leaded solder and 350 - 370 degrees for unleaded . I may vary these slightly for certain components . This iron is non adjustable temperature wise but by changing Tips you can vary the temp. I also have a really small Metcal iron which I may use from time to time but all my videos are done with the Weller . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
excelent
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated 👍
What do you think about use of conductive glue so no need to solder ?
Very good video. I've used these methods many times but personally, I like to use enameled wire or bare wire as I find insulated wire too bulky. I then use nail polish to coat and glue the wire down to the board. Two or three coats of nail polish and it can stand up to abrasion not likely to snag if some rough handling in reinstalling the PCB. The real nightmare comes when a surface mount component gets torn off taking the traces with it. Such as a SM micro-USB that's been stressed and wiggled extensively. A real pain to repair... I got one sitting on my desk waiting for my attention. I guess I better stop watching videos and get to work. 🙄
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. I'm glad you have mentioned how you like to do your trace repairs. The more options that we have to choose from the better. Thanks again , and keep up the good work 👍
What brand of flux do you use? I use one from MG Chemical but yours seems to work much better
Hi , I have for many years used SMFL200D rework flux which was a great flux . Unfortunately it has recently been discontinued so I'm looking for a new type at this point in time. When I find a decent alternative I will post it on KZhead. Thanks again , take care 👍
8:20 You mentioned earlier that you were planning to use 30 gauge kynar wire. In my experience, 30 gauge kynar wire is used for wire-wrapping and has a flexible solid single core of wire with a very thin insulating jacket, and it looks entirely different from what you actually used. Do you have a change of plan and use a different type of wire here?
Hi . Your comment is rather confusing . At 8.20 the green wire you see in the video is 30 gauge Kynar wire which in my experience ( working on military standard boards etc ) is commonly used for board modifications and this wire is actually a recommended PCB wire. Maybe you have used it for wire wrapping , I haven't , so the answer to your question basically is NO I didn't change my plan I did use Kynar as I said I would . Thanks.
When transposing a trace to replace missing trace, it seems like it might be a good idea to glue the trace down, too, especially if the trace is longer than a couple of centimeters.
Hi , I actually showed the gluing down process of the trace in a couple of these methods and also spoke about solder mask as if I'm doing any kind of trace repair generally I would bond down using a PCB glue called Tak Pak. I also show the bonding down of traces in some of my other videos . Hope that clears your question up , thanks 👍
Witam. jeśli to nie problem, napisz proszę jakiej kamery używasz w mikroskopie. Dziękuję.
Have you tried repairing/replacing BGA pads that came off with a BGA lift?
so that solder path you made at 7:40 is just a guide you made to measure the copper wire?
Hi . I just placed a piece of shaped solder into the path where the existing trace was ( this is what you can see ) i then just removed it , straightened it then measured it up against a piece of sleeved Kynar wire ( match the sleeving length ) this gives you the exact length of sleeving to perfectly match the old trace route.
@@mrsolderfix3996 I see, thanks for the clarification. I have a suggestion for future videos if you don't mind: listing the materials you're using (such as kinar wires) in the video description.
Hi , thank you for your suggestion . I used to list certain items in my really early videos , and your right , maybe I could list some in the video description in the future . Thanks for your support , take care 👍
The way I would intuitively go with is to glue those traces back onto the board and then scrape the remaining ends to bridge the missing part. Is there a good reason why I should not attempt this method? Perhaps the springiness of the metal will eventually overcome the glue? Perhaps the trace has a weak point that might inadvertently snap off later ? Any thoughts on that? Did you try that and if you did, how did you fare? I always attack the enamel on a wire with tiny grain sanding paper(200 or so) rather than a scalpel. Your work looks incredibly neat btw.
Hi , thank you for your comment. When I have a curled up damaged trace I would always remove it and attach a wire of similar thickness ( very important ) as it's just stronger , insulated properly and will not fall apart potentially in the future . Like you say you risk the trace shifting in the future , the solder resist on the trace will probably be cracked so has no protection from shorts etc and is just not as strong as it once was . I personally haven't experienced what's happened later with a repair on a trace that's badly damaged like these because I would have replaced them . Thanks again , take care 👍
Top
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support is very much appreciated 👍
Can you give some details about 'Tack Pack' adhesive i.e. who makes it and where to get it.
Hi . Proper stockists like Rapid Online , Farnell or RS Components or if in America you have Mouser or Digikey will stock these but they are quite expensive although Rapid do the spray version ( activator part ) for £11 and it will last ages. I have purchased these from eBay ar a decent price , I've seen the glue part lately for anywhere from £6 upwards . There is massive price variations though so be careful , some people trying their luck I guess . Also it's spelt Tak Pak without the "c" . Hope you get on ok 👍
Hello, I changed the switches of my keyboard and apparently I burned more than the account with the soldering iron and I eliminated the layer of pre-tin from the trought pad. Now the tin does not stick and if it does stick it does not make contact, therefore the key is useless Any solution to repair the track? Thank you
What microscope camera you using in the videos ?
Hello Mr SolderFix, Great videos! I have a question is there a way to figure out the size of the wire needed to replace the trace that is removed? Thanks in Adavnce!
Hi . Thank you for your question. I normally try and match the width of the trace with an equivalent width wire . I would never for example put a thin repair wire on a wide damaged trace as it could easily blow when signal is put along it . Try and match it best you can . For RF boards you need to be more careful as they are so much more responsive to incorrect repairs. Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thank You! That is awesome!
Hi , no problem , take care 👍
Also the uv solder mask
Do you have any videos on how to repair the actual hole putting a sleeve in the hole etc..
Hi , I've never done one to be honest on this subject . It's a difficult one as if the barrel is damaged or missing on a multilayer board then that's really hard to repair as you need to find what internal layers were contacted to this barrel . Putting a new barrel ( sleeve ) down into this hole simply doesn't work as some layers won't connect to it . If it's a simple double sided board people would probably just take their lead or wire through the hole and connect to the relevant points . Hope that helps 👍
What if you did a video with a two-sided board top and bottom with a sleeve that would be cool , sounds like you're from the UK I'm from Sunny South Florida USA
Hi , I'm from a county in England , Hertfordshire . Not as sunny as your place . If I can find some PCB eyelets which you need for doing 2 sided PCB barrel repairs I will try and do a video . Thanks for the suggestion and thank you for supporting my channel 👍
Is it important to follow the exact path or can it be done in a straighter line if using wire to make the connection.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. If possible try and recreate the same path as in some instances this can be pretty important especially when working on RF boards . You will sometimes see some really weird curved traces on your boards this is because the designer needed a certain length trace from point to point so achieves this by these curved traces. Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
What kind of camera do you use to take great pictures?
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. I simply use a macro lens attached to my phone camera , gives great results . It's also how I do my video recordings . Nothing special but works ok . Thanks again , hopefully that helps ,
Trying to understand why you try to follow the exact same path as the trace....is the timing this sensitive?
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . It can be very important the length of the trace on some boards . You will sometimes see some crazy shaped traces as the board designer needed to place certain length traces within his design . This is why it's good practice if you can to try and follow the original trace position then you will have no problems . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 So it's good practice for when it's actually critical like very high data transfer or RF circuitry
as you say, quite nice!. hahah wish i could do it that good, hahha
Hi , thank you. We can all learn off each other , and improve. That's what I've always believed . I'm sure you will achieve your aim on your projects , if I can help yourself and others that's great . Thank you for your support , take care 👍
What glue do you use? Great channel!
Hi thank you for your comment. The glue I generally use to bond wires down and around PCB pads after repair is called Tak Pak. It's a glue especially for PCB work and comes in 2 parts , activator and glue . It's expensive if brought as a pack from electrical suppliers Farnell , RS Components, Mouser , DIGIKEY etc but I have purchased these 2 parts seperately on eBay before with good results and a lot cheaper . I spray the activator on lightly first , wait until it's evaporated then carefully using the end of a piece of solder place a small fillet of the glue over the wires . Normally everyone glues first then activates . This is so wrong ( I believe the instructions even tell you to do this 🤦) , I definitely recommend getting this as it is a great glue , can be removed if necessary but secure enough for the long term if that's what you want . Hope that helps , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thanks so much for taking the time to answer me. Unfortunately I can't buy this product where I live (Argentina). My alternative has been using cyanoacrylate directly on the wire/PCB and applying some pressure. It's not as polished as your way, but it's the best I can manage and it usually works with plastic covered wires + PCBs. I have learned a lot with your channel. I like your video quality and style, but I tend to skip most of the video and watch the most relevant parts. Anyway keep doing what you do. Kudos to you, my friend. God bless.
Hi , thank you for your support of my channel , very much appreciated. Hopefully you get on ok with all of your future soldering projects, if I can help a little then that's great . Thanks again , take care 👍
What is the name of flux you are using? Thank you.
I messed up the little copper circles I don’t know what they are called what type of solder do I use to fix them ?
Would it be reasonable to assume that excessive current caused to traces to lift - maybe going back to the via rather than utilizing portions of the remaining trace would eliminate the risk of the trace lifting again?
Hi , traces like shown in this video are caused by excessive force across the traces , not excessive current , this tends to leave more damage than just lifting . Traces like these examples are perfectly safe from relifting as long as excessive force or the like doesn't occur again . Hope that helps 👍
What kind of flux you using?
hello sir iam wondering to know, which microscope camera do you use , could you plz show us some day your microscope and digital camera, thanks
What is the name of the spray and glue that u using
Hi , thank you for your comment. The glue is called Tak Pak , it comes in a twin pack of Activator spray and glue . Places like Farnell , RS Components, Rapid Online , Mouser and DIGIKEY sell it . It's not cheap but I have seen it on eBay , both parts being sold separately and this is generally a cheaper way to buy it . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
What If you mess up the barrell ? I think you called it that the hole
Nice video, a lot of "sort of"s though :D
Hi , thank you for your comment. I sort of 😂 knew that , I don't remember what I've said when I'm making videos so probably repeat myself a bit too much , but would be too much effort to reshoot everything . Thanks again , take care 👍
Hi, Are you interested in reviewing our TS80P soldering iron and MHP30 heating platform? I can send it to you.
Hi , thank you very much for the offer . At this time I'm not really able to review items but I may be in the future , so thanks again , I'm sorry I can't help you at the present time . Take care 👍