The CAMERA MODE That PROS ACTUALLY USE
The CAMERA MODE That PROS ACTUALLY USE
I've spoken to many pro photographers about how they set up their cameras, and they all say the same thing. In this video, I'll show you the camera mode they use and explain why. I'll show you how to use this mode for wildlife photography and also talk about important metering techniques you should know. Make sure to stick around for the added wildlife photography tips later on.
#phototips #wildlifephotography #camera
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Pro motorsports photographer here. Auto iso is a must for fast moving subjects in rapidly changing lighting conditions. Any pro photographer who disagrees is either shooting in a controlled environment (e.g. studio) exclusively or isn't really a working pro. Great video!
Thanks so much for the comment, and thanks for backing my information up. Great to hear from a fellow pro photographer!
advertising photog (studio) here, agreeing on your statement. Best for us is using the basic ISO of the sensor, mostly 100 or 200 for the lowest colour noise.
Ya I also do motorsports photography and auto iso has been a must
you're right, Im a fashion photographer and work mostly in very controlled condition so I set up my ISO based on what I need, but I also shoot a lot of runways and in a lot of fashion shows lighting conditions vary very fast and there I do use auto ISO.
Straightforward and to the point. Sounds good to me. Thanks.
Thanks so much for the positive feedback. Thanks for watching!
Yes after 3 minutes
fashion photographer here. this is exactly how i work outdoor. in studio i work with fixed iso.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts on how you shoot Fashion. I think it’s easy to assume most pros shoot with auto iso in changeable light.
Great, kept my attention and concentration 🙂 Metering technique is something I suspect many overlook.
Thanks so much! I appreciate the comment. Thanks for watching 😊
Really nice video, concise and well-explained...Subscribed!
Thanks so much! I hope you found some value in the video. Thanks so much for the sub!
This is the most compelling argument that I've seen yet for manual mode. Better than the usual "because I want full control over everything" reason I normally see. You've convinced me to try this more often!
Thanks so much! Glad I’ve convinced you to try out the manual with auto iso mode!
@MarkDumbleton in a controlled environment yes. The manual is the best. But fast-moving subjects in uncontrolled lighting.. auto iso is best
Manual Mode with Auto ISO since I went on my first African safari 7 years ago. The only change has been the upper end of ISO limit, having progressed from Sony A6000 to Sony A7iii and now Sony A1 😉
Thanks for sharing that you shoot in the same way. I’m sure you’re enjoying the noise performance on the A1 😊
Superb video. Informative & pacey. Subbed!
Hey Stephen, thanks so much for the sub. Really appreciate the support!
Great tips Mark - thank you for sharing your expertise.
You’re welcome! Thanks so much for watching and for taking the time to comment 🙌🏻
Another great contribution Mark. The ability to see the histogram in mirrorless and the use of exposure compensation (EC) have made the task of getting a correct exposure much easier. One thing to remember when using EC is to reset it after after taking the image(s). If this is overlooked it will affect subsequent images. My wish is for camera companies to include a setting that will automatically reset this function (and perhaps others,) when moving on to another image ;-)
Hey Garnet, thanks for the message. Haha absolutely, one needs to remember to reset it 😊 I’ve lost a couple images because of that.
Outstanding explanation. As a working pro for decades, I totally agree.
I really appreciate that, great to hear from a fellow pro that I’m not talking rubbish 😊
Professionals don't worry about exposure, they have mastered it. As a portraitist, I spot meter/focus in one spot. All the clamor about hundreds of spots is ridiculous for me. I can't gamble the camera guesses the right exposure. Place the spot just below the eye, on caucasian skin add 2/3 to 1 stop of light from dead center to the in camera meter. That puts the skin at zone 6, back button focus. Now exposure of face is dead on and the eyes are in focus. With film I'll use matrix metering and if a huge dynamic range, I move the camera to get a shutter speed more appropriate then hit exposure lock.
Thanks so much for leaving your method on how you shoot. Much appreciated!
Well, professionals are worrying about exposure if they are working in uncontrolled environments - of course they know how be prepared for different situations. Quite often Aperture Priority mode with Auto ISO Min Shutter Speed is the answer. Key words in your comments were"as a portraitist" which means that these are very specific technics for specific genre...
@@pawelmod3292 Yes, but a portraitist can be shooting in both a controlled studio environment or our doors in run and gun. Lots of ways to get exposure, incident, hand held with spot reflective with our without zone system, in camera matrix metering, spot, exposure compensation button or moving camera then lock new exposure. Have to find what works for what you shoot and how you like to do it. But someone with a meter in studio instead of the, you don't need a meter digital folks, can quickly produce a ratio they like quickly and tomorrow reproduce it. Some of my best shots involved lighting set up after I heard the dreaded words, you have 5 minutes. But what folks must realize, if you can just quickly dial in exposure, you then can concentrate on the purpose of message of the shot, or pose, gesture expression and leave behind the basically mechanical exposure setting. I'm not saying exposure isn't important, subject/bg relative brightness/ subj ratio should all support the image, but once you master getting it, it's like nike says, just do it. Once set, you can get down to business.
Wow, excellent.. Extremely well taught.. thank you sir. Cleared up a lot.. and help me see in a way I myself could understand. Thx aagin
Thanks so much for watching, and I’m glad the video helped!
This vid is GOLD. Thanks for it!
Thanks so much for the comment, really appreciated! Thanks for taking the time to watch!
I'm with you 100% on recommending Auto ISO. That said I favor aperture priority with minimum shutter speed set appropriately to freeze motion of my subject and no max ISO is a better way to go. In this manner, you set aperture for depth of field needed/desired, the min shutter speed will ensure frozen motion, and all you have to do is make sure you're not overexposing the highlights (blinkies help a lot) or underexposing your subject. If either is the case, just increase or decrease the exposure compensation dial which will raise or lower shutter speed. Why no max ISO? Because it doesn't matter. You either need a certain shutter speed to freeze motion, or you don't. If you need that shutter speed, then let ISO go wherever it needs to go no matter how high. The only way you're going to be able to bring it down is by giving up shutter speed. (Assuming you've already given up as much depth of field as you can for the subject matter).
Thanks so much for sharing how you set up the camera. I’ll definitely reply give this method a go on my next trip 😊
I'm new to the channel and this has been an awesome explanation, I'm looking forward to traveling to SA in '25 and apply all your wildlife tips. Thanks for what you do for the community 🙌🏻
Thanks so much for watching and for leaving the comment. I hope you found value in the video, and some tips to use when you visit SA next year. Happy to hear you’re visiting my beautiful home country.
The only mode I use is Fv Mode available on Canon R series cameras. It's Manual mode on steroids. I set the ISO to AUTO and the rest I adjust as my creativity calls for. I shoot Rodeos, live concerts, birds in flight/wildlife, landscapes, you name it! For everything, I shoot in Fv Mode + Auto ISO.
Thanks so much for sharing your views on using the R-series Canon cameras. I am not familiar at all with this new mode, but it certainly sounds useful.
@@MarkDumbleton If you shoot Canon r-series cameras, do a KZhead search of Fv mode. It's the ONLY way I shoot manual and I shoot manual - always!
Very good. No nonsense.
Thank you so much. I appreciate the comment. Thanks for watching 😊
Thanks Mark for sharing your experience with great comments....I am only a hobbyist but always willing to learn more.... cheers from Australia 🦘🦘😊
Thanks for watching Robert, hope you managed to learn something 😊
Great video. One point however, and you not alone, when picking the proper shutter speeds, it is just as important to mention focal length as well…. Double the focal length, then double the shutter speed because they DO go hand in hand together. I always wonder why this is never mentioned. Also, the depth of field is also very effected by the focal length. Just my 2 cents worth. I do enjoy your videos. Thank you.
Thanks for the comment Peter. I totally agree with your “double the focal length” shutter speed theory, especially for hand holding. I find that I don’t need to use the double the focal length shutter speed if I am shooting from a beanbag or with very new image stabilisation technology.
The part about iso is true for most genres except night photography, there it becomes very much a creative choice, giving you control over the strength of reflections and highlights.
Hi, thanks for the comment. Night photography is a very different form of photography, and I can see how the creative use of ISO can change things.
I stopped worrying about ISO after switching to Nikon Z. My Z7 II, just like the Z50 before it, handles higher ISOs extremely well and with denoising softwear like PureRAW 4 noise just isn't an issue anymore. Being able to control both shutter speed and aperture seperately whenever I want to without having to worry about ISO feels super liberating! You can actually focus on the creative aspect of photography instead of worrying about noise all the time...
Thanks so much for the comment. We think the same, it is very liberating not thinking about ISO. Also I’ve been testing Pure Raw 4 over the last month and I’m completely sold on it 😊
Thx for the video. I do agree with Auto ISO for sure. I need to add that most of the time I'm actually using Aperture Priority Mode together with Auto ISO Minimum Shutter Speed mode: it allows to set my desire aperture and desire shutter speed. In that mode if camera needs to increase the exposure it is rising the ISO, if camera needs to decrease the exposure it is increasing the the shutter speed. That kind combination of Aperture Priority Mode together with Auto ISO Min SS fully emulates what I would to manually in manual mode :)
Thanks so much for the feedback on how you set the camera up. Makes perfect sense 😊
Great video mark and i’m going to give it a go. Also let me be the first to congratulate you on 10k subs. Can’t wait to see you at 100k. Hard work pays off bud 🎉
Thanks so much Kobus! Your support means a lot 👍🏻
Good info. We have virtually the same workflow. However, I prefer spot metering as opposed to matrix. I use back focus, as I’m guessing you probably do as well, leaving the shutter button free to set the exposure value before releasing the shutter. I feel like this would be faster for you in a wildlife scenario, as you wouldn’t have to evaluate the shot you’ve just taken only to find that the bird flying away was under/over exposed, because you weren’t afforded the time to adjust exposure compensation. Of course, assuming you’re also shooting raw, you’re probably close enough to end up with a usable file, but, just food for thought.
Thanks so much. Spot metering works well, but I tend to use Matrix and keep the histogram visible in the evf and tweak the exposure comp depending on that. I definitely see the advantage to spot metering, and I’ll give it more attention on my next trip. I guess I’ve just got used to the way Matrix works for me. I also use back button focus. Do you use the shutter button to lock exposure? So you meter an area with spot, lock it in and shoot?
@@MarkDumbleton yes. I tend to meter first with the shutter button, then focus where I want it with the back focus and then recompose the shot and fire. I also keep the histogram in my EVF. These damn mirror cameras make it so easy! The learning curve for somebody just getting into it must be laughable compared to film days!
I am an amateur/enthusiast wildlife photographer and it took me quite some time to understand the exposure triangle when I got my first 'proper' camera and wanted to get out of all the auto settings. This video has confirmed that I now have 'got it'!! I liked the presentation - no messing, no umming and ah-ing, just straight and to the point. Easy to understand, and for those who were getting a bit left behind, as I noticed in the comments, don't they know there is a pause button they can use?!
Thanks so much for the comment, and I’m happy to hear this video helped confirm your understanding of the exposure triangle. I appreciate the feedback on the pace and simplicity of the video. I also don’t understand the speed complaint, as you say, there is a pause button as well as a setting to slow down the content. I value the time people spend watching my videos, and I don’t want to get straight to the point. 😊👍🏻
do not get tricked that professionals are shooting only in the manual mode. The point is to be aware which mode works for in the given situations ... Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority have use cases as well ...
@@pawelmod3292 I understand that. 👍
You have to be careful to set your shutter fast enough for the brightest scene at ISO 100! Otherwise a more bright scene will be overexposed due to nowhere for the ISO to go. Av priority is better, along with a minimum shutter speed value that will freeze the subject motion.
Thanks for leaving your thoughts here. Luckily on mirrorless cameras the shutter speeds go beyond 1/8000 which helps alleviate this over exposure, but I can see the benefit to using the suggested Av priority. You’ll just need to adjust the minimum shutter speed according to subject.
Thanks for the video..just returned from Kruger and had a fish eagle with body in shadow and head in sunlight😂..used everything you just said here..and due to lean sightings spent hours trying to shoot rollers in flight in middle of day….was great fun…really learned exposure compensation and reprogrammed some dials…. we use the same method ( M plus auto iso);after listening to Janine from Pangolin at Wildshots…”you can denoise a photo and have something or you can have a blurry photo that you delete” .. Light rooms denoise is so good that I am easily saving 12800iso pics…
Thanks so much for watching, and for sharing your experience in Kruger! I absolutely agree, rather get a sharp noisier shot than a blurred shot you’re going to delete. Haha I too have spent many hours shooting Rollers in Kruger, such a fun bird for photography!
Nice video, however, I'd like to add a bit :) This is not a criticism in anyway. To start with I'm a professional portrait/Studio photographer so never use auto anything for that work as I have complete control of the lights. In the video, you said ISO doesn't matter because of modern technology (noise reduction better sensors etc) then you said, you don't want to let it get to high as it degrades the image. I understand what you mean but others may get confused. If a beginner photographer asked me for wildlife or any outdoor photos where reactions to change have to be done quickly. Control the shutter, for wildlife, open the aperture as wide as possible (for wildlife this is inevitable a minimum of F/4 but probably F/5.6, F/6.3 or F/8 as they are more than likely to have a $1500 lens not a $15,000), (if they are just shooting on the street then settings would depend on the weather and may not need to be wide open) Set auto ISO but know the limits of your camera. As all cameras the higher the ISO the lower the Dynamic range. at the base ISO you may have 10 or 11 stops of dynamic range but at ISO 6400 you may only have 3.. my ISO rule is set it as low as possible but as high as needed. For metering I'd use spot metering and link it to focus point (if the camera does not automatically do this ) so the subject is always exposed correctly. I also ask what is the desired output? If it is to be shared quickly then making sure the most important thing is exposed correctly e.g. the animal. If you have time to edit and know what you are doing in post production, shadows can be recovered etc. So you may care more about the highlights and shadows in the background... but personally, i'd rather have a great photo of a correctly exposed lion and have the highlights in the background blown, than have an underexposed lion, protecting highlights which are not important to the subject of the photo
Hi Andrew thanks for the detailed comment. Feedback like this is highly appreciated, and it’s nice to hear the opinions from fellow professionals. There is definitely merit in using shutter priority and if you intend to leave the aperture wide open for everything, it’s definitely the way to go. I prefer manual as sometimes I do increase the depth of field if I’m shooting something super close and need more depth of field. Spot metering linked to focus point would be amazing (I just see of spot metering can be linked to subject detection) because that would work nicely. There would be little need for exposure compensation then.
Excellent presentation. This is exactly what I use. I learned it from Morkel Erasmus on a trip to Mana Pools back in 2016, someone who you probably know very well.
Hi Vikram, thanks for the comment and glad to hear you use auto ISO in this way. I know Morkel very well, an excellent person and photographer 😊
Great video once again, Mark. The negative comments are typically from some togs that always know better but it doesn't show in their work! 😉 Setting your ISO limits according to your specific camera, is something I use. My D850 is limited to ISO32000 max.
Hey Malan, great to hear from you. I really appreciate the comment. It’s always interesting looking at portfolios of the people who leave negative comments. Most of the time, there isn’t one. How do you find results at 32000 on the D850? Interested to hear what software you use for those high ISO’s? I’ve recently been trying DXO pure raw 4, results are actually quite good!
@@MarkDumbleton I haven't had many shots at 32000 but it worked well with Topaz Photo Ai and Topaz Denoise.
Great to hear. Thanks for the reply.
Until recently, I didn’t appreciate the need for exposure compensation when using M modem with Auto ISO
My Canon M6 has FV mode. I set ISO to auto. I control Speed, Aperture and Exposure Compensation.
Thanks for letting me know Tony.
3:00 I am a bit confused with the suggestion of setting aperture wide open as a default. Wouldn't it be better to set the aperture at the sweet spot for the specific lens (usually around f/8) unless you are specifically going for a blurred background?
I guess the default aperture you would want to use is subjective, and you absolutely could use whatever you felt comfortable with. I use wide open as a default starting point to quickly grab a shot in a split second, but I will often then adjust aperture to suit the scene when I have time to change it. A lot of wildlife photography happens super quickly. I find wide open on my particular lens to be sharp enough. Setting your aperture to its sharpest (f8 in your initial comment) can work well, provided you have enough light to achieve the correct shutter speed for the subject you are shooting so no blur occurs.
@@MarkDumbleton Agreed. With your example of using auto ISO, the SS could be set fast enough, and the ISO would need to be checked to make sure it wasn't getting pushed up too high and becoming noisy. And then adjustments made as necessary. I am more of a landscape photographer, so fast adjustments that would be required for wildlife don't really affect me, so it's quite a bit easier. Thanks.
Well ISO still does matter and meanwhile we have not seen much improvement in Out of Camera Images for YEARS. In fact, I would argue that for stacked sensors, Out of Camera quality has declined. Then we have the continually improvement over the years in Software. So unless folks are getting Right Out of Camera and not using the latest advances in Software, I just won't be buying into some Myth that ISO doesn't matter. It still matters along with proper Light, Technique, etc.
Thanks for the comment. ISO definitely does matter in terms of image quality, but it doesn’t matter in the sense that it offers no creative expression, and that’s the angle from where I was mentioning ISO.
Just to be clear, are you saying that ISO 3200 on a newly released camera is not better than ISO 3200 on a 10-year-old camera? If so… How many years are we talking? And just to make sure we are on the same page, you are talking about images directly out of the camera with no software intervention, correct? Because I can assure you… There has been a lot of progress over the years. if you don’t believe me… Go track down an old D1 and shoot on ISO 800… Then enjoy the barely usable images you get! Lol😂. now, an intermediate levelmirrorless can shoot at 3200 and you will barely even notice.
You squeezed in a lot there and hit on all my errors.
Thanks a lot for watching!
Great video Mark, one thing worth mentioning is ISO invariance, Nikon is quite known for it. A image underexposed by 3 stops at ISO 100 for example and pushed by 3 stops in post would like the same as in camera ISO 800 Of course, with such an extreme underexposure, it can be difficult to ensure you have nailed your focus/composition if you cant see the subject. I like your approach, rather apply gain (ISO) than leave it underexposed/difficult to see Its such a pity that the image preview that we see isn't even a representation of the "true" raw data. I remember testing my Nikon D800 metering and pushing the exposure (according to the meter) in camera past 3 stops at native ISO, I was able to recover the raw data with no clipping, I figured it was safe to at least "overexpose" my shots by 2 stops The Z6 is much the same and I can bet the Z8 is even better. I think overall this applies more to landscape shots when you want to get the most "juice" into the sensor before clipping, but with Adobe Denoise AI and other tech only getting better, it does not matter so much anymore, tech is making things easier, letting us focus more on the importance of capturing the right scene etc.
Thanks for the comment Alex! I have played around with ISO invariance, and there is merit to it. AF struggles when the scene is rendered dark in the evf, hence why I just use ISO to ramp up exposure. I can definitely see a use for ISO invariance technique for landscape shots.
@@MarkDumbleton totally - it’s really neat but pointless if you can’t see what you’re shooting! Funny enough one can actually turn off exposure preview on mirrorless - meaning you could actually see what you’re shooting but the final result will look different, maybe there’s some merit to it but the selling point has always been “what you see is what you get” which is actually just a jpeg preview, a raw histogram would be a nice touch!
Manual with auto ISO is so fast
Absolutely, it’s my preferred method for good reasons.
Just remember that the "manual " mode is in fact an automated exposure mode when using auto ISO.
Absolutely true! Although we use manual mode, auto iso does make it somewhat of an auto mode.
I HATE Auto-Iso - and when you use exposure Comp with an Auto-ISO setting - the compensation only adjusts your ISO, so, you just as well do it manually. However, this can work if you know you're shooting an all-white or black subject with zero chance you'll encounter anything else, can be useful for birds in flight as well. Otherwise, I think you're better off going Full manual.
Thanks for the comment. There is definitely merit in going full manual. My issue with that is if you’re taking a photo of a bird away from the sun, and immediately turn and photograph a bird into the sun, you would need to manually shift your ISO, whereas with auto ISO, you can keep shooting and not have to change the ISO. My thought process with auto iso is to think about being surrounded by 10 photo opportunities in all directions, what mode allows me to get as many well exposed shots as possible. But I appreciate your comment and agree in certain situations, full manual is a good option.
@wildlife I am also skeptical about auto ISO , but the fact that you can cap the max ISO makes what Mark is saying, pretty damn useful. Personally, I am in full manual most of the time, but, I don’t shoot wildlife. I tend to do mostly architecture and landscape these days, so there is no real need for auto ISO for me.
@@MarkDumbleton - I used to shoot manual w/Auto-iso - and for most people this setting will work a majority of the time for them - lots of animals, especially birds here will have white and black feathers on the same species, I found Auto-iso gets it wrong 9 out of 10 times - then when I learned that exposure comp was just adjusting my ISO, i seen no point of using it anymore - true the camera can change it faster than I can - but now if I get blown highlights its my fault not the cameras. I'll take a few missed shots for my lack of speed over blown highlights - by the way I love your editing vids!
@@MarkDumbletonwell in that example you have to adjust the exposure compensation because the auto iso would 100% under exposure the bird. it's funny how dumb modern cameras still are
Think of it this way: In my case, I'm shooting fast moving vehicles on a track where trees and other hard objects often cast shadows on the surface and where a cloud can cover or expose the sun and rapidly change lighting. With this in mind, is it logical to use manual iso when iso is not a creative setting? ISO does not alter DOF or have an effect on stopping or allowing motion in a photo. It is an exposure setting. I've been using Auto ISO since it was introduced and it has worked very well. No one has ever bought a photo from me and remarked, "I wish you hadn't used auto iso." LOL
I think you could have made 5 videos from that amount of information and the break neck pace. All good info and enjoyable to watch though. One more time from the top 😜
Thanks for the comment.
You can always slow the video down, pause it, rewind it or just whine about it. Personally it was fine for me, in fact it was better than most videos that are too slow paced.
@@Smokeyr67 Thanks so much for the comment about the pacing. I value the time people spend watching my videos, hence the faster pace.
This video is fast AF! All I heard was "blah blah shutter speed" "blah blah exposure" too damn jumpy to make sense of things I already know. Let alone for the new shooter. I clicked this video in my feed and it sent me straight into mind melt as though a professor was grading me on what I learned so far . Slow your roll, OP!
Thanks for the feedback.
So, you’re saying you already know this stuff… And STILL couldn’t keep up?! Sounds like maybe you don’t know as much as you think you do. I don’t know… Maybe it’s just me. I am an ex pro photographer and current airline pilot. I’m used to people talking fast so maybe your comment has some merit but… I would still think you could keep up if you knew this stuff.
I found this video very informative thanks.
Thanks so much!
Sorry, but this is nonsense. High ISO generates high noise. Not as high as it used to be, but still high. And high noise means little detail in the photo. So far no de-noising, not even AI de-noising can add the missing details. It only floods the empty areas with color. From a distance it looks tolerable. But up close you can see that it's a low-quality image. I'm annoyed by such talk, because people fall for it and are later frustrated that something doesn't work out for them.
Hi Joanna, thanks for the comment. Can you please explain to me how you would go about taking photographs of wildlife without the use of high ISO’s if you think my information is nonsense? Also, I never once mentioned High ISO doesn’t make noisy images?
Your comment is nonsense.
Wow, what time does your flight leave? You race through your videos without giving the viewer time to absorb what you are saying. Chill bro, slow down so we can appreciate your expertise.
Yeah but you can always watch it again.
I guess this video wasn’t aimed at Novices. Watch it a few more times until you start to understand what’s going on here. It’s pretty straightforward, but… I guess you’re not there yet.
Thanks for the feedback. I’ll consider slowing future content down. Looking back now it is a bit fast. I value the time spent by viewers and I don’t want to waste anyone’s time, will just need to find a balance.
Or set the playback speed to 0.75x
I think the pace was fantastic. Just right to avoid winding videos where you keep skipping. Also gets the the points perfectly 👍