Everyone knows exposure bracketing, most however never use it to its full potential! Here is how I hugley improved photo quality by adjusting the AEB settings!
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0:00 Intro
0:33 Why use AEB / Exposure Bracketing
4:10 More Dynamic Range with 5-Shot AEB
5:40 Small downsides
7:02 Editing 5 shot HDR
7:30 Merging HDR
7:58 Basic Adjustments
11:03 Masking
15:00 Color Grading
16:07 Sharpening
Thank you, I have recently discovered your channel, and already I have learnt so much, very well presented and explained.
Thank you so much for the support, that means so much to me!
Christian, You have made a clear point about exposure to capture all the perfect details in the highlights and in the shadows! Your demonstration of the beautiful exposed photos, and later on, about the HDR merged photo adjustments in the Lightroom is brilliant and insightful. I am very inspired by what you have crated, I learned more about exposure. I am grateful for your help! Thank you so much!
Thank you sooo much, these kind of comments really help me to keep working and stay focus on this channel! Very happy I was able to help with this video!
As someone new to using lightroom, this is a simple straight forward video, really helpful, and the added resource files to work along and learn is a brilliant move. Looking forward to picking up more tips.
Nor sure about other brands, but on Fujifilm cameras, you can bracket in one direction, + or -, rather than both + and -. I like to set my base photo to maximum exposure, and then bracket with darker exposures from there. That way I always know my slowest shutter speed.
Oh I didnt know that, I thought its always +/- x for all brands out there!
On my Nikon D850 I can also bracket in one direction
Running to my X-T5 to set up! Not sure how I missed this. Thanks so much.
Christian, First time to your channel. I really have to commend you, for a nice, concise, and relatively complete review and explanation. I'm a relatively new photographer (wonder when I'll stop saying this) and landscape is not the typical thing I shoot. That said, I did catch all the reasoning you used here and am just proud of not only your completeness, but both the graphic and photos that accompanied your video. Nicely done. The only portion I missed, if you said it, is that you're varying only your shutter speed for the higher DR/HDR shots, not ISO or focal length - but you may have covered that in other videos. Nice that you covered the few problems with HDR as well. Thanks for the video. I'm sure I'll look through your channels other topics since you were so good with this one.
Hello Christian, I just wanted to thank you for all the work you put into your posts. I have learned so much from you about editing in Lightroom.
Hey, thank you so much, I'm very happy to hear that!
Great tutorial Christian!!! I can't wait to get out and try this...
Superb result. Food for thought.
Outstanding! I love your art and your style of teaching. Thank you so much for your dedication to excellence. With love from Atlanta.
Thank you so much, that means a lot to me!
Great video! Clear and accurate presentation
fabulous tutorial. thank you for the effort and the sharing. i am an intimated LightRoom novice so I find this vid very helpful. thumbs up.
Thank you Christian , I will check the video out. In the end I exposed 5 images all at different exposures manually, they blend perfectly in HDR in Camera Raw . I have watched many editing videos, none of them match the quality of your teaching or your methods in CR , I have used CR for many years, to be honest, there is little else needs doing in Photoshop with the new Camera Raw features .keep up the good work.
Thank you so much! setting up the 5 different exposures manually is another great way to create the HDR, it just takes more time and thus makes it harder with moving objects like clouds as an example
Excellent info in this vid.
Thank you so much for sharing
well explained
Thank you!
i so much enjoyed your tutorial on AEB that i went back to your full KZhead playlist. wow, there are so many thoughtful vids. except as an utter NOVICE, i am not sure where to start. have you ever done a vid on getting started in LightRoom and Photoshop? how do you ingest, organize and cull? i have watched vids about ingesting but it's how to organize and rename on ingest that i would appreciate knowing more about. again, thank you for the effort and sharing. thumbs up.
Thank you so much for the comment! Unfortunately I dont have a video on organizing photos yet. To be honest, my photos are a mess of folders on my ahrd drive so I'm really the wrong person to share information on that topic haha
Just came across your channel interesting video, nice image and edit,
Thank you very much!
Having shot with a Nikon D750 for many years it gave me around 14 stops of dynamic range with a 14 bit raw file - I had around 6 stops of shadow recovery and 3 stops highlight - canons earlier sensors are notoriously bad in both - now with my Sony A7C I have now at least 3stops highlight recovery & 6 stops shadow recovery with no noise - no need for AEB as you can do all that kind of editing without using AEB
Tack!
Hey, thank you sooo much for all your support! That means so much to me!
Thank you for another excellent tutorial Christian. I have a couple of HDR beginner questions. 1) Do you need an HDR monitor to be able to do this process? 2) When you complete your editing steps in Lightroom Develop, can you export the final image as a JPG, and is it a normal JPG viewable by any device or is it a special HDR file that can only be viewed on HDR-compatible devices? Thanks again.
1-no, 2-yes, you can export as jpeg
Thanks for the comment! As @jormit1 pointed out correctly, you dont need a special HDR monitor to edit this photos and you can export them as normal jpeg files later on so they can be looked at on any device! :-)
Great, thank you!
I have run into issues with 3-shot HDR before but didn’t consider 5-shot (erroneously) because of shutter-speed considerations at the lower ends. I should add that until recently I didn’t have the sturdiest tripod so it’s time for me to go out and try this approach! Thank you!
Hey, I hope you will get some cool results with the 5 shot AEB! Wish you the best of luck!
Hi, I have always used 5 AEB at either 1 or 1.33 stop steps on my canon 6dii. I’m going to have to go back and apply your masking steps Christian, they are just amazing especially the way you use multi sky masks. I have only used 1 mask in the past and it always comes out too harsh and weird looking. Might try a 7 AEB for future shots. Cheers
Thank you so much for the kind comment, that means a lot to me!
Hi Christian, vielen dank for the video. Really insightful. I have known about the 5 stops versions, or even 7, but always seemed to use the 3-stop one to create my HDRs. I am definitely going to try some 5-stop examples. The way you explain the masking is very very helpful. One question though. I use an R6II and putting the focus square at a point in the image (could move it after focusing as I use BBF), determines the exposure. So 5 stops will be relative to what is read at that point, right? So I guess it means trying to find a midpoint exposure in the scene before taking the bracket?
Hey, thanks for commenting, very happy the video was helpful to you! I would suggest to manually set up the exposure, this way you will always get the right amount of light! On my camera the Histogram is always visible, so I can set up a nicely balanced histogram by adjusting iso, aperture and shutter speed. If you want to use auto settings, then you would need to find some kind of midpoint, so you are correct with your approach!
Excellent explanation of HDR. In your 5 shot example how many stops are you placing between each image? Thanks.
Thanks a lot! It was 2 stops, I have the best experience by going with 2 stops with these kinds of photos (sun in the image + dark shadows in the trees)
If I use DXO Pure Raw 4 would I need to run the final version through it or each frame separately?
On the R5 , how do I set the camera to take all 5 shots automatically? When I set either Function Control or Continuous, it stops at the 3rd shot ? Are you in manual mode ? Thanks
This is an excellent tutorial, particularly about masking techniques. I was unfamiliar with the masking intersection function. Learning that technique will be really helpful. Great video.
Ahhh Canon, I struggled to find the settings in the menu for my 6D and it seems on the R5 it is rather hidden as well! Check out this video which shows it at around 1:14 kzhead.info/sun/d9Z9pbmZeoR8mps/bejne.html
Have you ever compared the results between merging 3 out of the 5 shots (-2 / 0 / + 2) versus merging all 5 shots (-2 / -1 / 0 / +1 / +2) ?
I actually havent tested that, but it would basically be a 3 shot HDR which would net less dynamic range
@@ThePhlogPhotography Just being curious: why would it be less dynamic range ?
@@ThePhlogPhotography I've run a few tests with the RAW photos you supplied to this video using LRs HDR merge as well as DxOs HDR Efex and found the results quite interesting ... Maybe you might want to do something similar and present your insights in a separate video ? Note: I've ran tests for following bracket sequence options: -4/-2/0/2/4, 4/0/4, -2/0/2
Great tutorial. Instead of using multiple images at 2 stops, would it not be better to use more images at 1 stop?
Thanks for the comment! 1 Stop will give you less dynamic range, but when using 5 images, 1 stop should still be enough, I just like to be very very save and go with 2 stops :D
Whats the scienece about full frame automatically having better dynamic range than smapper sensors?
Isn't it all too much?
Not for me. But everyone is different, this is not something EVERYONE HAS to do.
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Why not go 13 frames, job done!
Where is the secret !?
Lumonosity mask its better.
'Beautifully exposed photos' really makes no sense. Exposure is a quantity, the amount of light (strictly per area) at the sensor. It's more or less. Maybe you're confusing it with tonality, or technically 'lightness' - how light or dark the photo looks. Exposure and lightness are related by the processing - or if you use OOC JPEGs, by the ISO. Rather than bracketing exposure, then spending time on your computer after choosing the best it makes more sense to shoot raw, expose to maximise information - essentially the biggest exposure you can manage without blowing the highlights and meeting your requirements for DOF and motion blur, and then get the lightness 'beautiful' when you process the raw.