That's Why Your Photos AREN'T Sharp
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In this week’s episode, we discuss camera settings to change that'll get you sharp photos every time. We've all be in the scenario before, where we capture an incredible photograph only to find when we return home that the image is slightly out of focus and soft, ultimately ruining the overall photograph. And, you're left wondering what could have led to the demise of one of your potentially favorite photographs. You wonder if there could be an issue with you camera body, or lens, or maybe even both. Well, I'm here to tell you that more than likely that's not the case - and in this video I'll share with you six things to change that could be throwing your photos slightly out of focus. I hope you enjoy this week's video and as always thanks so much for watching! - Mark D.
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💥QUICK QUESTION: Has this ever happened to you?
All the time back in the day! Luckily these days I rarely have focus issues. And if I'm uncertain, I'll grab a bunch of shots with different focal planes and stack them in post if necessary.
Same here Dave. Think I've had all these bite me in the past.
Definitely, it has happened to me many times in the past. Now, I try to slow down and take my time making sure that I have everything set correctly.
Using an ISO setting that is too low can result in too slow shutter speed and/or too large an aperture setting. Saw a good picture that could have been a fantastic photo on a Reddit forum, a while back. It was in Japan, a salaryman was walking home after work, down a narrow, somewhat crowded street. It was blue hour, and the main light source was a series of colored lanterns overhead, which made a nice leading line. But the photographer was trying to keep his ISO down, and had to open his lens up too far. He didn't get quite enough depth of field, and details like the subject's tie and company pin were just soft. The photographer nailed "the moment" and the composition, but higher ISO could have let him get better depth of field, and made a good shot a great one. You CAN reduce noise in post, and the newest tools do a pretty good of preserving sharpness, assuming the sharpness is there, to begin with.
Mark, early on, the biggest issue I had with focus issues was the use of lower quality (amazon etc) UV filter or the like. Removed all extra filters from the lens and voila - crisp and clear!
Hey Mark, just wanted to say that I appreciate you leaving your bloopers in your videos and not constantly editing/chopping in and out like most instructors do to edit out their errors. It gives your videos a much more personable and relatable experience, almost like we're in the room chatting with you. Such a subtle little thing, but adds so much!
I agree! Watching videos where it is clear they have been edited that way is soooo annoying...
Agree. Creators shouldnt waste their time and energy on getting the perfect setup and editing. It doesnt matter. I have enjoyed videos the most when people were just starting out their youtube career. When they start to focus on the gear and quality they start to loose focus on what they talk about.
Totally agree with you “Hey guys *jump cut* so *jump cut* today we’re going to be looking at *jump cut* how to get your photos pin *jump cut* sharp” Drives me mad!
True. That's when I subscribed. Give me authentic. lol
What he said!
Also for handheld, put on burst. The first shot will detect the the motion from pressing the shutter release, the second or third shot should be more stable, and the last shot will detect the release of the shutter button. I almost always find the middle shots to be sharpest.
Yes! I do this too and the middle shots are always the best.
Good advice!
Thanks will try that 👍
The 2 second timed release is great too, but with burst, it generally gives a person more choice .
Strange thing ... I usually find that the first of a burst is the best!!
I found a big bonus to becoming a wheelchair user, I now have a nice solid rest for my supporting elbow for every shot. Although I have to be a bit careful about staying slightly slumped down in the seat. Shooting from my powerchair is pretty good, it has a seat lift, so I can be almost as tall as when I could stand and shoot. The seat also tilts right back, so looking at the night sky is quite pleasant when 'Out really early shooting. Oh and even though it's indoors and pavements only, according to the book, I'm pretty good at off roading in it. It's nice that I live in a UK National Park, the Norfolk Broads, nad have a good relationship with the local farmers, so that I can use the farm tracks and field margins during my wanders.
You have a very good outlook of life. Many could take a page out of your book .
I use a manual wheelchair, and can’t do those things you said, so you’ve def got that over me for this haha
My fiancé also uses a wheelchair. She loves photography, so I want to take her out on adventures. You inspired me quite a bit. Thanks
@@richardwestwood1812what choice do they have, they are stuck in a wheelchair, it's literally forced adaptation.
@@sew_gal7340 absolutely none , that is exactly my point . It's so easy to dwell on negatives .
It also depends on what you call ‘sharpness’. We are doing too much pixel-peeping instead of looking at the photo as a whole for composition, exposure content etc. We are also ‘zooming’ in too much on our superb monitors which creates an artificial viewing concept - no one looks at a picture on a wall with their nose stuck six inches away from it! We view photos from a couple of feet away usually, and don’t forget in the outdoors we are looking at our compositions tens to hundreds of feet away or even miles! This ‘sharpness’ obsession is completely false and encourages the purchase of ever more ridiculously expensive cameras and lenses, which of course just what the manufacturers want. If you really think about it, digital cameras years ago only had a few mega-pixels, but were able to produce content that was used in all the glossy magazines and displayed in galleries and no one complained about lack of ‘sharpness’! I only ever have purchased used cameras that have cost at most a few hundred pounds, and print to A3 and receive praise from all who sees them. All Mark Denney’s instruction is spot on, but don’t get hung up on impossibly unnecessary sharpness seeking.
I agree with you, Peter - there's an almost obsessional fixation in regard to digital cameras; my analogue units (invariably) produce better resolution, shaprness, (& when using colour film) saturation; ultimately, I'll use analogue over digital - tho' the result are obviously not so immediate.
Fwiw, there’s no reason these are mutually exclusive. Of course composition, exposure, depth of field, etc. are important. But there’s no reason not to capture as sharp an image as possible once those are set.
True. It is why we sometimes see images that are oversharp, because they were blown up 200% on a monitor, they looked soft and were sharpened even more. Unnaturally sharp images are common nowadays.
This obsession with sharpness is a disease. Ansel Adams and countless other photography masters weren’t hung up on it.
Thank you so much!! I felt so frustrated, I watch all these videos , see all these sharp pictures and ask myself why I can’t level up with them. MAYBE because I have a 400 dollars (old) camera and not the newest, 2000 dollars model …
Another factor that can detract from sharpness -- particularly for long focal-length shots -- is the instability of the air between the camera and subject. In many cases this can't be avoided, but for example if you're shooting a distant scene and have a choice between shooting over grass vs. over sand / rock / concrete / pavement, the air over the grass will have far less thermal movement and therefore be sharper. As an amateur astronomer, this is a major concern for visual observers, but it applies to photography as well.
I was proud with my 5.6 400 but the softness was disgusting: dark ground under strong sunlight at roughly 0 degree centigrade ... exactly what you say! My experience is - if you cannot move - to use shorter shutter speeds. You have some distortion by the hot air but the image looks sharper compared to longer exposures where the motion of the hot/colder air makes everything soft.
Never thought of this, brilliant!
@@deborahtroeller6237 It's what astronomers refer to as "seeing" and it's usually the final limiting factor in optical resolution, in that context. Telescopes are almost always seeing-limited rather than optics-limited (assuming quality optics).
Brilliant. I’ve dabbled in astro but it never dawned on me. Thanks sooo much.
Not many people know that a lens hood can play a significant role for long telephoto lenses creating hot air disturbance. Unless you have a stray light hitting the lens, take the hood off.
@ 7:40ish Recommendation: use your camera bag or a heavy bag to hang from the hook of the bottom of your tripod. This definitely helps to stop some shaking. Also keeping the neck of the tripod as low as possible will help too
Also, if you have some light weight tripod, it will be difficult to avoid vibration.
As a pro sports photographer for years, I will offer my advice to learn to “back button focus” and shoot a burst. This will keep your AF working continuously , and separates AF from shutter control. As mentioned above, shooting a burst will increase the chances of at least one tack sharp image, even with stationary subjects. You can also back button focus to pre-focus, but in any case, be sure to disable the half-press AF function on your shutter button.
As an enthusiastic amateur who almost exclusively shoots wildlife, I concur. But I will confess to finding it difficult to make the transition to BBF after decades of shutter-button focus with its inevitable "muscle memory". In retrospect, this might have been due to my efforts to have the best of both worlds by assigning different custom mode to each, which just led to confusion. In the end, I had to fully commit to BBF without other options, and I don't think there's any going back.
@@wellingtoncrescent2480 , I was probably fortunate that the guy for whom I first worked as a fledgling sports photographer showed me about BBF, and all these years later, for me, my muscle memory is the opposite of yours; I can't imagine not shooting this way! Thanks for your comment.
I always use back button focus. Burst, not so much. I use a tiny remote control that fits into the strap when using a tripod.
Never saw the point in back button focusing, especially now with my R5.
My camera has bluetooth so I can use my phone as remote control, check if yours has an app too, nowadays plenty of them do@@kkfoto
This is my first visit to your channel. I've been shooting professionally for over thirty years, and never thought of the "elbow as stabilizer" technique you demonstrated, but I'm definitely going to implement it in the future. Your presentation is excellent, and I always appreciate learning new things from other photographers. Thank you for the great content!
That was new to me as well. Went out and tried it. I'm going to check the results.
Good tips. Additional thought: a little discussion on focus calibration and back focus vs. front focus might be helpful, as well.
Great tips Mark. I would add that hanging your camera bag on the bottom hook of a tripod center shaft provides more stability to the tripod for long exposures if there is not a lot of wind that can move the bag. Thank you for the video!
Fantastic tips and more practical on field. Thanks mark. Appreciate your honest and thoughtful tutorials. 🙏🏽
OMG hand over shoulder trick just blew my mind. Never heard of that stability trick before. Thanks!
Hi Mark, I think its worth mentioning the advantage of using a wall, doorway, tree , fence post etc as a third point of contact to stabilise yourself for hand-helds , so long as it suits where you want to shoot from . I find this most useful for interiors like museums and art gallery’s which are generally much more dimly lit than you might think. Cheers from NZ 😊
I’d make that Fourth point of contact. L hand, R hand, forehead, shoulder….
I find in tourists areas there are handy quadpods about in the form of trash cans which can create a very stable foundation.
Ive also used my camera bag like a bean bag
I have been doing the "hand on shoulder" for a few years. I really like it. It's become natural to do that. This is the first time I see a KZheadr promoting it. Well done.
Good stuff Thanks for sharing! Good job with the video lighting too.
Thank you Mark for taking the time to make this video Your advice really helps me-:)
Hi Mark. Thanks for the great info on how to capture sharper photos. I have had more than a few photo shoots where the images looked fine on the camera's display, but when I got home and uploaded them in to Lightroom on my PC, I'd notice that some of the photos were not as sharp as I was expecting. Implementing your helpful tips will definitely help me reduce those "oh, ____" moments in the future. On another note, and to second the comment of another poster, I appreciate you leaving your bloopers in the video instead of editing them out. As a 30-year videographer, it drives me crazy when I have to sit through a video that has a bunch of jump cuts where the presenter's head shifts position every few seconds. That seems to be the norm in a lot of YT videos these days - but it still looks very amateurish. Thanks again. I've subscribed and I'll be perusing your other posted videos.
I really enjoyed this video! All such fantastic points, thanks! When I am doing product photography, in addition to what you mentioned I also choose digital shutter release, and once I’ve got my focus, I turn off the touchscreen focus option and use it as my shutter release. It only takes a very light touch to snap the photo and when combined with 2 second delay was little to none for shake compared to the wobble recovery from pressing on the shutter button.
Love espresso shots, great video - clear and concise.
Thank you. Good tips, well delivered!
The biggest difference maker for me was learning about the apertures for best sharpness. For years I shot on the high/low ends instead of shooting around f/8 or f/11. I hadn't seen that shoulder resting technique before- might have to try that out. Thanks Mark!
Ansel Adams had a F 64 school, for landscape photography. My camera only goes down to F 16. You can use "Focus Stacking" programs to keep everything in focus depending on the effect you want. Small aperture means longer shutter speed.
Thanks for checking out the video Dave!
I recently did a 4K city video. Decided to put the hood on the lens and dictate F8 in bright sun. Never seen anything so sharp in my life. 18-135 kit lens at 18
Aaaa
Yes. For most lens, f5.6 or f8 are the sharpest aperture. Landscape should only use f8, f11.
Something I would add is understanding the difference between sharpness in terms of being in/out of focus vs. depth of field. Of course you get into the things you covered here anyway with that, but when I was teaching I had students who did not get why they had to stop down for some subject matter. BTW- when I was doing press photography, I could almost put a 35mm focal length lens on one of my Nikons, set it to f/8, use hyperfocal "focusing", and not focus at all. I would not use this for portrait or closeup, but in grab shooting it worked out fine.
I have heard from quite a few guys that work as press/news photographers "f/8 is your friend when things go crazy!"
@@jabezhane What we used to say was "f/8 and BE THERE."
Excellent points, Mark! Thanks for reinforcing and reminding me of things I already know, but sometimes neglect to do.
This was a very helpful list, explained in a straight-forward manner. Thank you!
I have been using the 2 sec shutter delay for years. I often shoot handheld indoor under dramatic lighting (imagine car museum) where it's just not practical to use a tripod, nor do they want people accidentally knocking a tripod into an potentially priceless vehicle. It's good to see someone offering up this advice.
The 2 second delay often means you can't time the waves too well for seascapes. Better to use a remote trigger and no delay.
Another big tip on tripod stability: the mirror action on a DSLR can cause the camera to noticeably shake. Learn to use mirror lockup or live view for longer exposures!
I like to compose my shots in the viewfinder then go to live mode. The mirror locks up, then fire away with a 2s shutter delay. Learning this trick really improved camera stability..
Mirror shake? Living in the past, man.
As a beginner in photography this video is really helpful, thank you :). Subscribed!
Thank you, keep putting out great content my master.
I had always used 1/120 as my safe handheld shot. It took quite a few lost shots to realize 1/160 is the safer point the moment any action starts. Wide open and too slow caught me up for years. I think we shoot too open not realizing ISO noise is infinity better than it used to be. It also sucks shooting a group portrait at 1.4 and only one person's eyelash is in focus 😂
1/160 makes sense if you are shooting a 135mm lens handheld. It’s too slow for a 400mm shot and way overkill for a 14mm. Double or triple those speeds if the subject is moving.
I reckon everyone who doesn’t learn through lessons, learns that exact thing the hard way lol
Yes, many of these! It may seem obvious, but a mistake I've made (if focusing using back button focus or manual) is 'locking' focus with a zoom lens at full tele then zooming back out for a wider view and shoot. Most, if not all zoom lenses will need re-focusing. Thanks Mark for another great video.
If you are using canon you have zoom option when using screen live view, so it is easier to focus small objects
Ok I'm 40 seconds in and I just have to say, whatever you have your lights set to in the back, I ADORE that color. So, so soothing.
Great tips! The hand on shoulder stabilization I’ve never heard of…brilliant! Liked and subscribed. 😉
With a DSLR another benefit to using the delayed shutter release is that in most cameras the mirror goes up right away, even though the shutter opens 2 seconds, 10 seconds, etc. later. This eliminates the vibration from the mirror snapping up. I assume that's irrelevant with mirrorless though...
Never noticed that before with my DSLR - thanks
good point although on some DSLR's you have to set the 'mirror lock-up' manually
Mirror slap lol
Thanks for the video. Here's one that pretty much no one ever talks about, the resolving ability of a lens. A cheaper lens will never be sharp enough with a high megapixel camera. Trust me I know. I've tried every technique you've mentioned and then some for years until I found out that high megapixel cameras are extremely difficult to get sharp unless you have a very high end lens. Even then, it can be quite difficult. Perhaps you can do a video on that? High megapixel cameras and focus issues. Thanks.
Plus with high density megapixel cameras diffraction occurs.
Very interesting remark that reminds me on my observation of a standard Nikon 50mm (45MP) I then bought a much bigger lense from Sigma 1:1.4 which is about 4 times the size & weight (!) but pictures are way much better now. Happy you gave me substance on this issue!
Yeah this is always my problem, since I use kit lense and vintage lenses. Many reviewers said great things about my Fuji kit lens but surely it's not that great.
I just found you today, and I appreciate your guidance Mark!
Helpful, Useful information; I appreciate this! Thanks!
Hey Mark, I’m a wildlife photographer that does a little landscape photography. I have to say that I absolutely love your channel. You’re teaching me so much. I’ve put many of your techniques into practice in the field. Your demeanor and teaching style is awesome. You crack me up with your side commentary. Caffeine puts me on highs speed too! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks so much for checking out the video! Glad you enjoyed it:)
All good tips, however, regarding the 1/focal length practice, if one is using an APS-C or Micro Four Thirds camera, the shutter speed needs to be increased by 1.5 or 2.0 times to account for the longer apparent focal length with these smaller sensor cameras.
Agreed. I use an APS-C sensor camera and I've always done 2x focal length at least.
Love the shutter delay suggestion. This is the first time I have heard someone mention that.
Excellent as always! Thank you!!
Using back focus button is definitely the first thing you should do for your camera. Also setting up and doing a focus check on each lens is very important. There is a reason they include an in body focus adjustment on most dslr's. Even though that lens may be brand new from the factory, doesnt mean its focus is dead on. It can be different on every camera body you use. Problems of back focus or front focus issues can be a real thing. I have a nikkor 200-500 f5.6 that was back focusing and once I adjusted it, I stopped getting soft pictures. Also keep in mind that if hand holding, its best not to use a shutter speed slower than the focal length of the lens.
I really like doing focus checks on my lenses. It is surprisng how out they can be and it's nice to know your lens is dialed in to your camera.
Does this also apply to system camera’s. I use Fuji x system. Having problems with proper focusing and sharpness.
Look in your camera menu to see if you can find a folder for focus adjustment. Then you can either buy a focus target kit or make one yourself using yardsticks or metric rulers. Its easy to do. You have the camera focus on the target and take a shot. Then look at the scale or yardsticks to see where the camera actually focused. It can either front or back focus. Then you adjust the focus in the settings in the camera. Do a YT check for your camera and see what you can find.
It’s a system camera, so no mirror. I’m not sure if all these testing options are possible. I’ll check. Would this be considered “calibration” or “calibrating”?
Using back-button AF, among other benefits, eliminates the need for shooting in AF-S. I have separate user settings for handheld and tripod and I bake the appropriate servo into those settings. Also, for #7 on this list, I don't know if this holds true in today's mirrorless/IBS world, but back in the DSLR days it was best to turn image stabilization OFF when on a tripod, as stabilization depended on some movement in the lens itself. I back that into my user settings as well on my Z7 so not sure if it's still necessary, but as of a few years ago it was.
Depends on the lens, but most modern lenses can detect when they are on a tripod. Also, there is a difference between being locked down on a tripod and being loose on a tripod (as using a gimbal).
Great tutorial I think everyone should watch this. No mincing words, straight to the points. Making sure all these are in place you're pretty much guaranteed to get nice shots... Keep up the good work on these videos...
One technique I use when I'm shooting at the limit of handheld, and don't have a tripod, is to use a wall, a tree, a post, or some solid fixed object to brace myself and the camera against (as long as you can still get your framing.) That works really well to extend the limits of handheld shots.
One thing that you didn’t mention that could be an issue for soft images is if the camera’s diopter isn’t dialed in and rock solid sharp. If that is slightly not as sharp as it should be, it could result in images being soft. Also I use an app on my iPhone to control my Sony camera so I don’t have to touch the camera for long exposure shots but using the timer works too.
The diopter affects the sharpness of the viewfinder, not of the images you take with the camera.
@@stephenschmid492 correct and if the diopter is not dialed in correctly what you think you see in the viewfinder is in focus when in reality your images may be not as sharp. Im basically saying it could throw you off if your viewfinder isn't sharp. Its happened to me once thats why I mentioned it lol.
@@cre8tivity06 Gotcha. When I manually focus, I use the highlighter function on the EVF, which doesn't really depend on the diopter.
Unless I did not pay enough attention and missed it, another reason for lack of sharpness when shooting on tripod can be the camera's image stabilisation. Depending on circumstances, it can help to either turn it off, or turn it on.
Especially when you use longer exposure times.
@@LaposMovies Good point. And also when using longer lenses. When image stabilisation most clearly ruined a shot for me, was when I was using a long lens at night (so also a longer exposure). I turned it off and the image became nice and sharp. When it's a bit windy however and you're on softer ground, sometimes it can be better to turn image stabilisation on instead! So it pays to try it out and experiment.
Thanks. All my questions answered in this comment 🙏
Best to turn off.
It looks like it also depends on camera+lens. I saw testing of this and there was no difference on their setup. They did not test on huge telephoto though. Anyway better test on what you have.
Wonderful video and I learned some new things. Time well spent 🙂
Excellent video Mark. Several items I will incorporate, so high value. Thanks!
One that you didn't mention is turning off image stabilization when using a tripod. It is always looking for movement and can miss calculate what it thinks is movements. Thus correcting for something that isn't needed. Softening the image. For me, it is just a matter of remembering all the little things you mentioned b4 firing of a shot. I'm not 30 anymore and have only been serious about photography for the last 3 years. So, the old mental muscle memory isn't locked in yet. LOL!! Great stuff as always Mark!!
Hi Mark Thank you for sharing this video with us.😊
Thank u for these hints,I really appreciate your help!
Great video. Also, if you are taking some night shots of stars or the moon, enable mirror lock up and the delay to prevent shakiness. Also, disable autofocus for that as well so the camera is not "hunting" to focus on something.
Great video and extremely useful tips. Thanks for sharing, Mark. I would like to add two tips that I try to follow as well. 1. Make sure that image stabilization is turned off if I am using a tripod. Some lenses act a bit "jittery" if stabilzation is turned on while on a tripod. If you are on a tripod, you don't need stabilization...if you do, you need a new tripod. 2. If I am shooting a scene with plants or leaves on trees etc. and it is windy, then I need to have a higher shutter speed to move any wind induced movement in the scene itself. I learned this tip from a great photographic educator named Mark Denney in a previous video. 😁 Thanks again Mark!
I really appreciate the honesty in your videos.
I really appreciate the reenactments, especially the shoulder strap swinging in the wind.
Clearly a weakness in my photography I must say - what I sort of missed (and seems to be my particular problem) is respecting the depht of field of your lense as your photo might need a range of sharpness which has a lot to do with the size of your lense, the aperture setting and distance. For DSLR shooters to bring up the mirror ahead of taking the picture is another point that might have been pointed out more clearly. But May be I’m the last one shooting with outdated gear.
No such thing as "outdated gear". Your gear is just as good as the day you bought it. If it does what you need it to do, it isn't outdated.
You missed one important thing. Setup your camera for back button focus and use it long enough to become accustom to it. This feature will help you in making a conscious effort to nail the focus and will prevent your accidentally refocusing. If you use it long enough back button focus will become second nature. Then going back to the old shutter button focus will feel annoyingly awkward.
Massive game changer...
Can someone please explain back button focus for me?
@@deborahtroeller6237 You map focus to a button, usually by your thumb. This way shutter and focus are now decoupled and you control either or both at will. As opposed to shutter button always forcing refocus AND shutter action. In situations with movement, you just hold the focus button when you want continuous focus to be active. When focus is right and you don't wanna have redo it, take as many pictures you want until you want to refocus. You get more control.
I do something similar, I try holding the button after I get my image in focus and that usually works unless there's movement of course. What I don't understand is how to "setup for back button focus". Another contributor here used the phrase "map focus to a button" to decouple the shutter and the focus but HOW do you do that???
Okay thanks, you said "map focus to a button" but HOW do you do that??? I have no idea what that means??? Map focus?
Mark, truly appreciate the video content... as always crisp delivery of the content without much ado! The AFC vs AFS and the lens' sharpness are the things that hadn't crossed my mind, thanks for this wonderful video!
Great to hear you enjoyed it!
Long time fan here. The arm on shoulder was of interest to myself and partner. Great to hear "old school" tips are still valid like one over focal length. And another tip others have mentioned was a burst scenario. Might try that too. Finally, i might look into camera straps now as i never use or carry one. Love your videos and humour along with the advice. Thank you👍
Hi Mark, one curious thing i found when using a tripod. If I didn’t turn off VR on my long lens, occasionally the image wouldn’t be sharp. So I concluded that the VR feature must have been trying to compensate for movement that actually wasn’t there.
I've heard yes and no to this question and both sides had arguments why or why not. Are you using a DSLR or mirrorless?
As long its on a tripod. (Shooting long exposure especially) Turn it off. The tripod is there to stablize already you dont need lens or camera in body stablize anymore. If you had it on. There will be chance your shot will become blurry because the camera will get confused
It could be that you use your tee-shirt to wipe your glass...
Great video thanks for sharing!
Great advice! And that photo on your computer is absolutely stunning!!
Thanks for the tips Mark
Thank you for sharing. I found out I was in autofocus continuous. I am going back out today to get more photographs
Just started with photography courses and viewing your videos really add a lot more knopwledge in practice mode. Enjoy hearing with your style of approach.
That sunset Timelapse towards the end was incredible!! Would love to see a video on that technique one of these days. Really awesome!
Loved your video!!! Great suggestions too!
Thank you for sharing many helpful tips! Enjoy your teaching style.
Thank you Mark. I am having an issue with a lens and will make sure I have incorporated your suggestions!
I always learn something great from you, thank you!!
Thanks for the helpful tips, this video definitely helped me out tremendously!!
Thanks for the video, helpful tips that most people can appreciate.
I loved this video. Did not notice you were going fast and then when you intentionally slowed down, it did seem more natural. I’ve never seen your videos before but I’ll look for more as I enjoyed the content and delivery (in both speeds ;)). Thanks for the educational info!
Great job Mark, thanks for all the tips.
Great tips! Thank you.
Great video, as usual to the point and good to remember… thanks !
This was great, thanks.
Thank you, Mark, great video as always. ☕😁
A very helpful video, thanks for posting!
Great stuff Mark. I always tell novices that their first investment is not a 2nd lens, but rather a good sturdy tripod. And I fully agree with the self-timer delay idea. 100%. And the other thing I recommend is learning how to use the magnify function for the LCD screen to look at the image before they move on! Nine times out of 10, novices think the image looks great and sharp and then realize it did look nice and sharp on a small screen, but.... It doesn't hurt to go into full manual mode and try your luck at some manual focusing too.
Thanks! Quick, easy tricks to use.
Good general advise here Mark and in particular I like the one using the 2 second delay on a tripod. subbed you and hi from UK
absolutely great practical guide very simple explained, thank you very much 😀
With stationary subjects and on a tripod I use Life View. Then zoom in 10x on the part that matters and manual focus. Nice video!
Thank you so much for this very informative video. I like your natutal approach without jump cuts.
Tried that technique of one hand on the other shoulder and resting camera on elbow and I love it. My hands are a little shaky but I tried this indoors and I could get at least a 1 second exposure without having much blur
I love this review and anxious to apply your suggestions. Terrific.
Very good points! Thank you. I use back-button focus with AF-C. This allows me to control whether there is focusing being done or not, and the shutter release is simply that - a shutter release. If I'm going to be using my camera on a tripod and taking a lot of shots, I'll use a wireless remote. This allows me to sit on a chair or in the car. Plus, since it's also an intervalometer, I don't even have to babysit it. It will take the shots while I take a nap or engage in a discussion.
Nice! Turns out I've learned some of these organically. Good to have them confirmed. The 1 over focal length is a new one to me and excellent information!
very insightful such a soothing voice i learned 6 great tips yay
Hi Mark, love your videos! Keep up the great work!
Great vid man. And thanks
one more piece of advice which I use and I have to force myself to remember, 'wear your glasses for close inspection work on playback', man has that tripped me up on more than one occasion. great vid.
Thanks for the tip about the timer. Makes total sense and works. Sometimes the simplest solutions are the most difficult to come by!
Very helpful Thanks
Thanks! That was very educational. I didn't realize about the small aperture diffraction issue.
great tips!! Definitely helpful!! I like the timer option! Great idea
Thank you! SUBSCRIBED!!