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What mode do you use, and why? I’d love to know! I’m always looking to better understand the needs and choices of photographers to make better videos!
I use auto ISO, seems the best for me. I can control aperture and shutter speed.
FV mode
Manual with auto ISO, like you said, ISO is the only part of the exposure triangle that doesn't affect the creative outlook.
I usually use auto-ISO and depending on what I’m photographing, I choose shutter priority, aperture priority, or manual mode.
I use manual with auto ISO, adjusting e-comp as needed. Great video!
Simon, I know you get this all the time, but even so - your delivery is always sharp, your demeanour always calm and friendly, and your insights are always solid and splendidly illustrated. In my opinion, you set a standard for teaching, and you uphold it infallibly. That's why even on topics where I already know what you are going to suggest from the title, I watch the video with pleasure. You are a delight to follow.
Too kind!
This is so true! I knew what you will tell us at the end but I also watched the whole video. I am a teacher and I really enjoy your videos!
This post nails it! Thank you.
completely agree !
so true
I've been a pro photog for 38 years. This is probably the best content I've seen discussing this topic. Very clear and easy to understand. I tend to use Av or Tv most of the time, but I also use manual with auto ISO. And ... sometimes I just put it in P and let it go.
Great to hear!
Second that. I wish I had been taught this simply and with real life examples years ago.
Same. I don't know any professional photographer that doesn't switch modes with the environment, subject and effect/desire of the final image. I think everyone has their two or three favorites but even those are up for debate between photographers and their brand/camera body.
High ISO noise is so manageable on newer cameras, I’ve gotten to where I use Tv and auto ISO almost exclusively when shooting large field sports with multiple “exposure zones.” 12800 is far, far less noisy than even 800 was on my first SLR from 2009.
P with Focus and Exposure on dead center is one of my favorites
I’m late to the party but this is exactly how I used to teach exposure in the digital photography classes at our college’s photography program. Having a histogram and exposure compensation really changed the student’s ability to think creatively. I love your clear eyed approach to photography Simon. 👏🏻
Thank you, Simon. I have been beat to death by being told I must shoot in full manual, and I’m missing so many shots because I’m not fast enough. I feel like you’ve given me “permission” to let my camera help me. I’m so grateful for these educational videos! You’re the “bomb-diggety”!❤
You speak for so many of us!......I have so much more confidence now!
I feel the same as you, mate! I`m in photography for about, 15 to 18 years now, maybe a little more... and i was hammered real hard with the slogan: "YOU'VE GOT TO SHOT IN MANUAL MODE ALL THE TIME!!! REAL PHOTOGRAPHERS ONLY SHOOT IN MANUAL MODE!!!". And because of that, I've always had this aversion to any mode that's not Manual... With Simon, I've learned that i can allow myself to relax, breed and use another modes that aren't "Full Manual" all the frigging time. Mainly because my main interest in photography is Photojournalism (Graduated in august last year, finally) where both the time to think of the configurations and actually capture the scenes i want, or the agenda demands, are really fast and short in time.
Who ever told you that you must alwas us manual has no clue what they are talking about.
@@vinnyvanoni5321 Thats to bad.
Without doubt, Simon is THE best photography tutor on KZhead.
Finally someone said this... I'm a commercial photographer and I almost never use Manual except the scenarios when I really need to control the light like you described. I use mostly semi-auto modes, with only manual aperture control. Thanks for your video. I'm wandering around youtube and found your channel. A breath of fresh air! Cheers from Portugal.
I am 82 years young. Thanks for reminding me. I know all this stuff at one time but it is good to brush up. My DSLR only comes out during the summer when I am out and about on my mobility scooter. Otherwise, I use my iPhone to take regular photos.
90% of the time I use manual with auto ISO. I bought my first good camera (Minolta SRT-102) in 1975 and got used to manual operation over the years. My first camera with any automation was a Nikon N90 which I still have. By using manual with auto ISO on my DSLR cameras, about the only thing different now is being able to vary the gain with ISO instead of having to select film ASA and deciding about tone placement and push or pull in development. The capabilities of modern digital cameras and post processing software are amazing and, for a senior like me, allow me to continue to enjoy photography (although I still shoot some film occasionally in my old manual SLR and TLR cameras). Sorry for the long-winded ramblings. As Forrest Gump might have said, "I'm through talking, now". 😊
Videos that explain everything this plainly are rare. You speak in terms I can understand. The other videos here tend to get way too lost in the tech-speak... almost like they're trying to impress everyone with the fancy words, instead of the fancy understanding. Loved the video. Make more, please.
I used to use shutter priority or aperture priority. Then I discovered using manual mode with auto ISO. For what I do, outdoor sports, wildlife, outdoor events and indoor performances, it is my go to every time! Thanks for posting this video! It confirmed that I'm doing some of the right things! 😉
I love that you say, for example, a blurry background is “seen” as desirable! You can do whatever you like and you don’t need to follow conventions. I like taking all-in-focus street photos to practice my composition 👍
In situations where lighting is quickly changing and I don't want to fuss around with settings, (especially when using variable aperture zoom lenses) I will use Aperture priority and auto ISO with minimum shutter speed based on 1/focal length (reciprocal rule for hand shake).
Can also slow shutter further to factor any available IS
It's such an honor to hear that 'A' or 'T' modes are totally fine by the professional photographer. I think many people limits themselves by believing the myth of 'manual mode' and the 'lower iso'. Really appreciate that you made this video. Big fan from South Korea!
I have been like you
Auto ISO became a game changer for me when capturing wildlife with quickly changing light conditions. Brilliant video 👍🏻
Whichever mode I use I always follow this golden rule…only let the camera control one part of the exposure triangle and I set the other 2.
I've found the best way to maximize control over the all settings while minimizing time to get to the exposure I want under pressure is: spot metering mode with AE-lock. This is a layer of control on top of the shooting mode. It works in all modes except shooting M without flash, but even M with flash, it's helpful. It works like this... Camera setup for a particular shooting scenario: - configure the AE-lock on whatever button you want, some people like shutter half-press, but I set that to AF-lock and use the right thumb button for AE-lock - dial in the ISO limits you want and auto ISO, or a specific ISO if you want total control over that - set spot metering mode - set Av mode and dial in desired aperture (or Tv and desired shutter speed), e.g., Av with f/2.8 When shooting: 1. dial in EC for whatever tone you want to set in the frame, often the easiest is to pick the lightest or darkest tone at set it at whatever EV value you want, but any tone at any EV for whatever tone you choose works 2. meter the tone you chose and use your preferred button to set AE-lock ... as long as you hold that button now, the exposure is locked in on that tone and won't change (keep in mind if you have a zoom lens on, you can go to max zoom temporarily to get an even more accurate spot meter on the tone you want) 3. autofocus on whatever you want and shutter half-press to lock AF 4. frame the shot & release the shutter This shooting workflow becomes automatic with practice. As long as you keep your thumb on the AE-lock button, the exposure won't change from shot to shot, as long as the lighting is consistent you can keep AE-lock down. If lighting isn't dynamic much over the whole scenario, then flick into M shooting mode and dial in the aperture and shutter speed directly. This approach is great when paired with auto flash, too. Whatever mode you're shooting, Av, Tv, or M, and however many lights whether a single flash or multiple, you'll still get the tone you metered at whatever EV you set it to. This approach is robust when adding more lights into the mix, and gives you control over FEC as an independent variable as well. AF mode and AF-lock are also managed independently however you like.
I too use Manual and Auto ISO in most scenarios. Works great for me. Adjusting 2 setting is very quick and manageable.
Totally agree!
@@simon_dentremont And the exposure comp on the rear wheel. The wheel on the top is too clumsy.
Excellent advice. The general message here I think is, the camera is a tool. And the right way or the best way to use that tool is in the mode that is appropriate for the given situation.
Well said!
As a photographer, it's the best comment I've ever seen from a photographer. If you don't shoot in "Manual you are an amateur". In my opinion, we should always try all the ways that gossip machines provide and come to our own conclusions as to what is the best method to photograph each scene...
simon is the reason why i forced myself to learn manual and got so much better so much quickly. Nothing but respect for simon.
I thought my pictures were looking good, but just after watching your videos i remember the tips and use them right in action. I'd never have such amazing shots without you, your videos are really educational and simple to understand. I can see the true experience. Looking forward to new videos!
Mostly I do photojournalism, and as such I mainly use auto ISO with manual settings of 500th sec and an f-stop set between f5.6 & f8 depending how much depth of field is required, sometimes knocking exposure compensation up or down dependent on how dark or light the background is, and with AF-C for moving subjects. Outside of that, just as you say, if one is setting up for things where one has time, portraits, landscapes etc, I'll generally flip to an ISO of say 400 and adjust f-stop and speed accordingly. In studio similarly, one has time to set everything just right. So it all depends what one is shooting. In a moving situation, protests, civil disturbances, covering politics etc, one doesn't always have time to continually mess with all the settings so auto-ISO and having a fast shutter speed and reasonable f-stop is best.
The most balanced discussion of modes I have seen yet! I shoot mostly in Aperture Priority and when needed, shutter priority. I have not found a need to use Manual for my shooting requirements, but just may experiment due to your video. Great work Simon. - not only do you pick great topics, you explain them so well!
When we had swimming class in school the first lesson was spent in the classroom learning some theory and safety rules. Watching this channel as I sit here with my first real camera that arrived before its charger feels just like that, excited to learn the occult secrets of a new craft and giddy for my first chance to test what I have learned from the sages.
Congrats on your new camera! You describe the experience so well, and you have so much fun ahead! I love how Simon guides us towards the essential elements, around stuff that doesn't really matter. In this case, decide what result you want, then identify what controls that result. I sometimes choose a scene, then play with various settings to see what can happen. I recently was at a pond with ducks. I took photos in Aperture priority, isolating the ducks at wide aperture, then framing the ducks near a tree limb with smaller aperture. I changed to Shutter priority to get fast sharp photos of a duck as it flapped, then slower photos of flowing water that show the blur. I tried several ways to include the falling snow too, which was tricky. Too fast and the snow flakes were tiny, too slow and they were too blurred and distracting. Enjoy the heck out of your new camera. Spring is a fabulous time to start. May you never stop learning and delighting!
You are in the right place. This channel is a wealth of information
Simon you are a godsend, i have learned about settings and their effects from your videos with ease. Before I just could not grasp the method and when out shooting would get frustrated and forget basics. Thank you.
I have been shooting Av with autoISO for years. Now that mirrorless is here, I have switched my Canon R7 to FV mode. It is just as easy to setup for ease of use and way more versatile.
Manual model with auto ISO is fanstastic.
Like you I shoot a lot of sudden photos, catching moments that suddenly present themselves and I need the camera to be as automatic as possible (candids, reactions at events, concerts etc). Aperture priority with limits on shudder speed work for most of my shots, the obvious exception being sports/action, but I appreciate these balanced opinions from people who truly know their craft. For a long time manual mode seems to be almost a badge of honor to signify "look, I'm serious about this". But how many great shots have been lost because of this fixation.
The introduction of FV mode by Canon is pretty nice. I use it frequently on the R7 by setting shutter speed and aperture to my liking, setting iso to auto and using exposure comp to tweak the shot. It's still basically manual as you explained it but shows all the settings nicely on the bottom of the view finder and allows for fast setting changes. Kind of a hybrid manual mode hence flexible value. Keep up your great videos!
I’ll make a video on FV one of these days.
Please do Simon - I think a lot of Canon shooters would be surprised how useful this underutilized mode is. It’s great!
Agree on Canon's FV mode. It's very useful when wanting to to quickly change settings on the fly - manual mode on steroids.
I tell myself that FV mode is “guided manual.” Great video.
@@jimbruton9482100% correct . Manual mode on steroids
You and Gavin Howey are my favourite photography instructors. You got me to set my ISO to AUTO mode. Now you got me to set my camera mode to MANUAL, setting my Aperture & Shutter speed to my pre-set preference and letting ISO set to AUTO, plus changing the exposure compensation as needed. I remember when my highest ISO was 400 on the 35mm film era. My film choice was the B&W Ilford film since I knew to process them myself. Plus, I did my own photo printing in the bathroom. Those were my fun days back in the 1970s, when I was in my 20s.
On some cameras the automatic mode works insanely good, especially on the focus
I now shoot my Canon R7 at shutter priority with auto-ISO for wildlife photography. With this set-up the aperture is held wide open and I can use the second back dial to adjust ISO for exposure compensation. This has an advantage over manual and auto-ISO where I had to press a button and then set a dial to change exposure compensation. Now I can instantaneously adjust my exposure as needed. I have an alternate mode where I have the R7 set to manual and auto-ISO, but I assigned the lens control ring to adjust aperture (this may be unique to Canon) and the second control dial to exposure compensation. This configuration allows me full control over the three main settings.
For wildlife and aviation pics I've been using manual with Auto ISO and it's been working great. Can still apply exposure compensation say if for focusing on a white bird. I do keep an eye on the ISO and if getting high will adjust the shutter speed down to keep it in check and especially if a bird is not moving around too much. Thanks for the great video. I will use AV mode in some situations too. And like Simon says if you've got time and doing landscapes or astro on a tripod then I'll move to full manual.
this video was so refreshing to watch! Great presentation. Looking forward to watching more of your videos as time permits.
Awesome! Thank you!
Thank you Simon, I’ve never spent time in Shutter priority, but this makes a lot of sense for my subjects (fish). I go on a night dive tonight, I will test it out! I know and have heard all of this before, but you convinced me.
I am new to photography and in these 2 days watching your videos I have learned a lot, thank you for your time.
Great to hear!
I work as a newspaper photographer, I tend to shoot manual, but use auto iso nowadays and use the compensation as needed. Most cameras can shoot pretty high iso, and software is so good at cleaning up noise, that it really isn't a problem. Saying that, it is important to learn how manual works for the odd times
Learned more in this few minutes than any amount of other stuff I’ve watched. Absolutely smashed that subscribe button!
I use 2 custom settings for wildlife: one for stationary subjects and one for moving subjects. I do this to be prepared for any situation that could happen at any moment since it's easy to switch between both. Stationary subjects: shutter speed based on max focal length of lens (in my case 500mm so 1/500s), Aperture at f/8 for sharpness but I may decrease it in darker scenarios, auto ISO, and small focus zone. Faster subjects: shutter speed at 1/3200s (may increase or decrease based on subject), same aperture as above, auto ISO, fastest frames/second setting, and larger focus zone. One change I need to make is mapping my metering to a dial because an all-white subject or an all-black subject can sometimes cause exposure issues. When it comes to landscape photos, I'll use manual mode.
Great setup. I’ve done same.
Do you use the smallest Aperture opening for landscapes?
@@peeweebarney No. Typically, I'll shoot anywhere ranging f/8-f/16 for landscape photos. It is said that shooting at a really small aperture (high f-stop) introduces diffraction and softens an image. Not to mention you'll need to have a slower shutter speed or a high ISO for proper exposure which is usually not ideal. If I need the foreground in focus and a distant background in focus too, then I'll shoot 2 images: one where my focus point is close and other on the background, then I'll merge the 2 images with Photoshop.
I always use manual with auto ISO for nature/action and low-light as I can squeeze out a bit more sharpness with a slightly darker aperture. For daylight/street I use aperture priority. But I will see if I can set a minimal shutter speed for aperture priority. Would help with handheld shots in the dark as I'd prefer to stick to 1/50 or 1/60. Digital cameras are magical to allow for variable ISO's and giving you full control of your artistic preferences with both the shutter and aperture. Back in the day with a fixed ISO film roll you'd be somewhat more limited for sure.
I just want to thank you for your excellent videos. Your clear cut explanations are exactly what I could have benefited from years ago in college when I took my first (and only) photography class. I couldn’t understand much from reading out of some very technical books, and eventually gave up on becoming more proficient than just point and shoot. I feel like I understand so just more from your videos than I ever did in school, and have confidence to jump back into something that I always had a passion for as a hobby. Thank you!
I am happy that my new camera will also be Canon lol. Also, I love how this modern DSLR's have so many setting to chose from and set to your liking!
Thankyou Simon i am learning alot from you
(A) Outdoors. (M) Studio. And Exposure Compensation all the time 🙂 That works for me. Thanks for another great video
Good choice!
Bonjour Simon, i studied photography 20 years ago and often felt like a fraud using semi-automatic modes after i finished my degree. At some point i got obsessed with getting the right manual settings at all times. After a few years without a real camera i'm jumping back into the game and i'm glad to hear this about speed or aperture priority modes, i will certainly use them at will. Your work is sick by the way.
Thank you so much Simon, I have started watching your videos a little less than a month ago and i have not only learned so much about photography concepts such as proper megapixel count and composition tips but I have learned so much about every function my camera and their buttons and menu's are capable of and have mastered new ways to control creative photography i never thought was possible. You are a complete blessing to the community in your ability to perfectly articulate your teachings. You are also very well planned and do not harp on any subject too long and keep a very active and engaging flow in your videos.
My goto mode is FV (Canon). It is the best of all worlds. You have all controls available in one place and can essentially do Av, Tv or Manual mode in one view. I have set a button to quickly change the current setting I am on to auto and another button to change all settings to auto. Then I can quickly manually adjust the setting(s) I don't want on auto.
You can use the delete button to set the current setting to auto (press once) or all settings to auto at once (press and hold for a second or two). You don't need to dedicate one or two other buttons to the task.
@@ronjenkins4257Good point on the delete button. However, I can never find the delete button easily unless I take my eye from the viewfinder. That's why I mapped the buttons.
On the R7, the arrow pad buttons on the back are all ready set to do this.
Started out trying to shoot manual but once I realized I'm just doing what the camera tells you to do so why not just let the camera do the work. Today I'm mostly using Apertur priority and controlling the rest with exposure comp. and Iso (mostly in auto)
I use manual mode because I feel it is the best way to familiarise yourself with your camera and also to read the light conditions without relying on a meter, once you have become confident with your camera you can explore the different modes. It is just the way I do it and I am NO expert, just old fashioned.
I learn so much from your videos. Thank you!
Brilliant, as always 👍
Most often overlooked feature: Program shift. Set the camera on P Mode, and you will be fine for most of your everyday photography. Change shutter speed or aperture for a special situation? Just dial up or down to change shutter speed and aperture at the same time to the values you need. Auto ISO sounds great to extend the range, but some cameras are reluctant to give you more ISO, and quickly changing the ISO value manually is no big deal.
Same with me. I use Av and Tv when the image I want to take requires it, but otherwise Program Mode and sometimes even Auto+ as modern cameras have really improved this mode a lot.
Rapidly becoming one of my favourite channels. I used to by mystified by the interplay of these settings but no more! Plus your photos are nothing short of breathtaking.
I liken your explanations to photography as mine are too drivers who don't parallel park. There is a method and a feeling that need to be understood. It's not hard, but the "formula" works, once you've done it a few times, so practice. BTW, parallel parking is EASY with a 5 step process, yet it seems nobody knows it, and rarely care. I guess I live in a special time, a time of over abundance. I would LOVE to have the camera gear some people have collecting dust in their closets. Thanks for the clear explanations. I was always curious about how to approach manual mode through the other 2 modes, this was helpful. I'll practice :)
This guy is brilliant.
Too kind!
Manual and Raw for me, for my concert photography, and definitely for landscape.
Concerts are tough!
Thank you so much for the honesty. I've been looking for videos to teach me how to use manual on my new camera. I did find it (yours!) BUT it feels so good for someone like you to tell us it's not necessary. I feel much less pressured to take care of every single feature now!
Manual with auto iso for sure🎉
This is so good. I recently picked on-camera skills and am now at a stage where I am controlling manually. Or I believe now that full manual is the way. But here Simon comes as my grandfather teaching me the right skills and the attitude 💌 Thank you, Simon 🙂
Fantastic!
Regarding modes, I find evening shooting like at dusk, manual works for me the best. It’s probably time I try other modes more often. 😎
I find it amazing, you shoot for years and think you have a good handle on it. I watch one of your videos and learn something... THANKS Simon!
Ironically with Sony: Aperture Mode is best, with auto ISO & a min. shutter speed. Program a button on the directional pad so you can quickly change the shutter. The problem with manual mode is that if you have too much light the camera will hold the shutter speed and will over expose the image. Same thing with shutter priority strangely. In aperture mode you can just set a min. speed, and never overexpose an image. 90% of my shooting is this way.
What model of sony do you have? I did not experience this.
@@jordivila5207what model do you have?
@@DavidStella A7R5. Are you a sony user too?
@@jordivila5207 I am a Sony user. Started using A7III, then got A7IV and A7RV. The RV definitely does this, check your settings when you’re on aperture priority mode.
@@jordivila5207 So here's the way Shutter Priority Mode works on an A7R3 with current firmware with Auto ISO and Auto Aperture: Lock Shutter Speed ---> If too much exposure, then reduce the ISO to minimum ---> If still too much exposure, then tighten the aperture (FIRST PROBLEM: it will go all the way to f/22 and destroy any sharpness due to diffraction) ---> If still too much exposure, then blow out the image. If you're in Shutter Priority and lock the aperture, the camera will blow out the image until you manually quicken the shutter. Aperture Priority mode allows you to set a minimum shutter speed and then will intelligently quicken the shutter if possible, or will increase ISO if needed. I've had the best results for me with that mode. I can shoot closer to ISO 100 without worrying about blowing out an image. Edit: one more thing. They may have fixed this on the newer bodies, or it may just be my giant hands, but on mine it is RIDICULOUSLY easy to accidentally bump the back dial with my palm, which controls ISO by default. I can't tell you how many times I THOUGHT I was in Auto ISO and then bumped that dial, and suddenly I'm at ISO 50 and I screw up the shot. It's so bad for me that I've actually just disabled that back dial altogether, and will only turn it back on when I'm shooting in full manual.
Love this channel!!!!
same!
Glad you enjoy it!
I find myself mostly in Av. And from time to time manual, Tv and Fv. Adjust the level of automation for the situation and your needs.
I wish I would’ve met you when I was living in New Brunswick. I enjoy your videos and use your tips every day.
Maybe one day!
Macro and Astro photographer here: Trying to invest in a full frame camera and learned that a lot of old lenses are extremely cheap because they dont have auto focus. Also noticed that new cheap lenses today have less quality in optics in my opinion. Just an example, the Canon 55-250mm that my dad got with his camera 15 years ago is much sharper and aberrations are not present in that lens. The Canon 75-300mm is horrendous. Image quality seems muddier and the aberrations are just horrendous. I am really looking into a Nikon Z5, and lucky for me, I have never used any other mode other than Manual Mode!
Macro almost _has_ to be done manually: effective aperture actually decreases at high magnification, so you have to overexpose at bit compared to shorter distances. And trying to meter stars is a real pain in the butt.... I'm in a similar situation: I have a couple of inexpensive stock lenses designed for my mount, but everything else is in a different mount because it has to be. No autofocus, no shutter priority. I set the aperture, and only ISO and shutter speed can be automated.
No one explains better ! Thank you for all the videos you create for us all 🙏
Glad you like them!
What a fantastically presented and valuable video. Wonderfully taught and I'll be able to use this moving forward as I learn. Thank you very much 👍🏻
I love the way you explain things. Very pragmatic. It has made me a lot more confident with my photography. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
I'm in Aperture mode 99% of the time,
I too use Manual with Auto ISO most often. I find that I'm kind of "locked in" with shutter speed and aperture for wildlife, leaving only ISO to adjust.
You Nailed it ! 100% agree.
You're literally a godsend, I'm lapping up the content. Also love hearing you pronounce your name at the start of each video, what I'd give for a name like that 😂
Wow, thank you!
You have simplified it and gave me solutions I have been looking for. Thanks
I use m and auto iso
I will shoot manual with auto ISO for fast moving subjects and modify the exposure compensation to grab the subject. Works like a charm 99% of the time.
Same. Let’s me set the camera for the subject and background and the camera adjusts the ISO accordingly. Could never do this in my 5D MKii as it was capped at 400
Just discovered your channel. Very informative and useful. Thank you. You explain things well without going over our heads. 😊
Thank you for this refresher. I'm glad I discovered your channel recently. I wnated to upgrade to a new camera, but watching your videos make me realize that I still have a lot to learn to improve my pictures and master my old dslr. Thanks again!!
Almost always Aperture priority for me and I set the ISO to something appropriate because I was brought up with film. Although cameras handle high ISO better than they did in the past, I still don't get the "I set the shutter speed and aperture manually so the Auto ISO ramped up to 25,600" - that doesn't represent "control" to me. YMMV
If the subject isn't moving, that's right. Keep it at ISO 100, set it on a tripod and let the exposure be set by a longer aperture but if you need to hand hold something and shoot a moving subject, then the only way you're going to ensure getting the shot is by using auto ISO. The camera will know it's got to take a fast shutter speed to freeze the action and it knows what it will need to get it based on the f stop. Only thing left for it to do, to grab it frozen in time is crank the ISO up for ya so you get it. It might be a necessary evil in such cases like wildlife, but necessary, regardless. This is why wildlife photographers know, if they spend multi thousand dollars for those fast super tele lenses, their cameras wont need to crank the ISO as high than with consumer, slow zooms. They don't LIKE high ISO either, but they know it's a necessary evil to get the shot.
Hi Simon, I wanted to thank you for all your explanation videos, i've started photographing animals a couple of years ago as a means to still be somewhat active whilest dealing with post-covid. Your videos helped me out alot in improving my shots and how to process them afterwards. i've become so much more positive because of this hobby. So thank you for all these videos. i'm looking foward to the next one!
This is the best video I’ve seen on shooting modes! Thank you. I usually shoot in APERTURE MODE but I’m very intrigued with MANUAL with auto ISO. This is the second time I’ve heard of it and really wanna try it soon!
Under 1 minute gang👇
I do stage photography and use aperture mode (wide open!). Lighting changes quickly, especially in feather-and-sequin shows, so using Manual mode pretty well guarantees extra work in Lightroom. Multiply that by hundreds of photos and it becomes a time sink just to flex and say "I shoot in Manual".
Thank you, very informative. It rings true to a beginner's ears! This way you also get to understand better what F stop you need vs aperture, just by observing what the camera is doing in semi-auto modes.
Maaan I wish I had this knowledge years ago. It would've saved me a lot of grief. Superb teaching! It is simplistic yet informative. Thank you!👊🏿
A brilliant photographer and amazing teacher. Thank you.
Many thanks!
Great explanation, really great. I agree with you 100%. What ever works for you is best, but be open minded to other methods. I had been (for birds in flight) setting the aperature where I need it and set speed high enough to get sharp inages using auto ISO and used the dial facing the rear of the camera to do changes to exposure compensation as needed. I may go back to that. Right now I am in full manual and I have the ISO setting on the dial facing the rear of the camera where my right thumb can move it as needed. I use the histogram and the blinkies while shooting to clue me to changes in lighting of the subject so I can spin the ISO dial to prevent over exposing my target which is frequently a bird with some (or a lot) of white feathers. The bottom line is that the bird may start flying from a dark group of trees and then be flying in front of a very bright sky and the light meter in the camera will substantially change the auto ISO setting leading to over or under exposed white feathers. If only we could tell the light meter to just meter the bird. And yes I do prefer to expose to the right but that is also how blown highlights happen on what would have been you best shots. The challange as I see it is a bird in direct sunlight will require the same exposure as it flys in front of a dark background as will be needed when it then flys in front of a bright background and for that situation auto ISO can work against you. Practice, practice, practice etc until you can change either ISO or exposure compensation on the fly.
I like when you say that you don't care what ISO is in your photo if it serves your creativity. I once read that if a high ISO photograph is in focus, it is usable.
Thanks Simon, many people say do this or do that, that is the right way, but the truth is it depends on the situation like you said in the video. Very informative.
You're the best man, thank you so much for your content. Cheers from Brazil
“Get the shot”. If you have time to set up the shot, use manual. If not, let the camera help. I use Av a lot. You’re a great teacher. Thank you.
Excellent! One of your most useful and practical videos for me. Thank you!
I am an amateur photog, always trying new things. I also like to understand the reasoning behind each option and you have done a great job explaining. thank you
You learn something new every day. I never knew turning up exposure compensation changes the uncontrolled setting in semi-auto and ISO in full manual with auto-ISO. Thanks very much Simon! Your wisdom is never wasted on me!
For wildlife, shoot Manual mode and assign ISO to the thumb dial. Now you set your aperture and shutter speed while controlling exposure with ISO. Super easy.
Thank you for all your work, positive attitude, and professional style of presenting work.
My pleasure!
Thank you, sir for keeping it real. I love your videos.
I’ve been shooting my church service photography in aperture priority with shutter speed set to a minimum of 1/125 and auto ISO because of watching one of your videos. My shots are coming out perfect all the time and all I adjust is my exposure compensation. This has really changed my photography. So much easier. And with the AI denoise in Lightroom, high ISO is not a problem. Thank you!
Thanks again, Simon. Your knowledge is only exceeded by your enthusiasm which inspires and drives us to go out and do better.
My pleasure!