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Get the plans for the construction lumber WORKBENCH PLANS HERE: scottwalsh.co/products/construction-lumber-workbench Features 20 step-by-step pages, 3d renderings throughout, and a cutlist for the easiest build possible.
I’ve seen the plans. They’re pretty great. I’m not bias or anything 😂. Nice video Scott. The editing keeps getting better and better
One thing you might want to warn people about is that in many home centers, the 2x4's are kiln dried (although only to around 18% moisture content, not as dry as most hardwood), but the 2x8's and 2x12's may not be kiln dried at all. I think this is because the 2x4's are often used in home construction, but the larger boards are mostly just used for decks and such. Anyway, you can check the label on the lumber. If it is kiln dried, it will have KD somewhere on the label. If you do not see KD, it is not kiln-dried, and the moisture content could be 30% or more.
question, could you link the aluminum extrusion faces you have on your rip fence for your table saw. I've been looking for some like those for mine. thanks man, solid vid as always.
@@idhatemet00 That's actually the way my fence came. It was sold by grizzly/craftex but I don't think it's available anymore. I believe @thewoodwhisperer has a video on the extrusion iirc.
Nice, love the planer.
I have always used solid core doors for my bench tops. Very straight, very stable, and very cheap if you take your time finding bargains. My best score ever was getting ahold of several 10 ft long, 24 inch wide conference room doors that had no holes in them and they were more than 2 inches thick.
That's the way to go. When a school or hospital does any remodeling they usually have plenty of solid-core doors for next to nothing.
i do the same thing solid core doors are great tops those homedepot 2x4s are garbage the worst ive ever used
Just what I was coming to the comments section to say. Check to see if you have one of those reuse stores in your area because they usually have a ton of them for reasonable prices.
what are you talking about home depot wood is awesome after i get mine done I can take out a bag of marbles and play roller coaster On it. The marbles go up the hill then down the hill.. great game when IM bored staring straight at my curved wood bench top!!!!!1 hahahah
@@mikecondoluci53 The big box stores use Grade 3 lumber. Bananaland
At 71, I've built a lot of work benches over the years, using different designs. One of the ones I like the most is using a solid core interior door, with a 1X3 oak perimeter for the top. You can use any type of replaceable top on that, smooth hardboard works well. I also like 4X4's for leg construction, and I've used different bracing, shelving, enclosure to hold it square. The more experience you get, the better the bench(s) seem to get. There is no wrong way, and don't be afraid to experiment!! Nice job on this one BTW!! 8) Peace --gary
Seriously, go for the solid core door, unless you already have all the clamps, table saw, planer, jointer, and you're looking to spend an extra 5 hours to save on $30.
God bless careless fork lift truck drivers. They can turn solid core doors and kitchen counter tops into bargain workbenches in seconds.
I appreciate the humor and reflections on what didn't work on past builds.
In lieu of the roller that has to get tossed, use some kind of plastic card. It'll spread the glue even thinner, reduce waste from drips during clamping, and you can just wipe off or break off the wet or dried glue when you're done and reuse the plastic card.
Bump
I save old credit cards and all the junk mailed "pre-approved" stiff paper cards that come in the mail. Trim the sides with pinking shears to give them a little sawtooth pattern.
Nice idea! Thanks!
WHAT a tightarse. How are things in Glasgow?
Anytime I get a gift card or new credit card, it goes into my bench drawer when I'm done with it (used gift card, old credit card) for just this purpose. I few snips with a good pair of shop scissors and I've got 1/16" triangles every 1/4"-3/8" across the edge. I spread some glue then take the card and scrape off the excess (to be reused), I then take another straight-edged card and smooth is out using light pressure. Gets me a nice thin layer of glue with little effort and very little waste. Wipe both card off when done, and they can be used again and again. Oh, and I wear disposable latex/nitrile gloves when doing this to keep my hands clean.
You can actually avoid cupping by installing your lumber with the grain facing the right direction. The assumption, looking at the board, is that it will cup "with the grain", but reality is the opposite of the appearance. The long grain will pull away from the short grain, so if your end looks like )))) the cupping will take place on the right side even though you would probably assume it would occur on the left. Install the bark-side of the board down, I noticed you had about half bark-down and half bark-up on both your old bench, which is why only half of it cupped so badly. When making glue-lams, you actually want to alternate grain )))((()))((( so they will naturally tug against one another and prevent warping.
Came here to say this. There are actually charts on the internet with pictures on how to alternate the grain directions. Really helpful if you make larger pannels.
this guy gets it
Re your first part, won't it still cup, except that the cupping is now aimed down? Alternating the boards doesn't actually avoid the cupping, it just alternates the directions so they (mostly) cancel out.
Be careful, Scott. With this upload consistency, I'm gonna start expecting monthly uploads..
lol this made me laugh as much as it hurts 😂
If I ever get a break from all the orders I might upload another video… so, I get it.
@@ScottWalshWoodworkinglol
Why are you uploading less and less? Love your show!
I used 2x8s also; but instead of ripping them in half, I ripped them to the depth of my vises (2-5/8, if memory serves), eliminating the need to carve a recess in the bottom of the top. Instead of using construction grade 2xs, I bought Southern Yellow Pine, a tad more expensive than SPF, but also better quality and more stable (or so it seems to me). Cheers from Virginia's southern border!
10:50 re: dents in your worktop - you can take pretty significant dents out of softwood with a damp cloth and an iron. If the damage is beyond what you can steam out, you can always route out a shallow recess and patch it (like a butterfly inlay)
Bondo!
I use Masonite on the top. It wears like iron and can easily be replaced.
That's a beautiful bench. I think it's adaptable to other types of work, as well. (Not just carpentry.) It looks very strong and well-thought-out.
That’s a heavy duty workbench, great video. My workbench top is made of 3/4 ply with 3/4 MDF on top and finished with 3/16 (I think) hardboard, no planning and perfectly flat. For me, your build was a subtle lesson in various woodworking techniques without being a “lesson”. Well done and keep up your funny demeanor!
A few years ago, I built my bench out of construction lumber (2x4s and 2x10s). What I used to make sturdy legs were through tenons with a wide shoulder. Basically, I glued 3 sections of 2x10 together, and built a really large tenon at the end, and mortised the laminated top. It was a tight enough fit that I used a 45 lbs weight to hammer it in. It never moved since then.
Another option for the legs that I think is actually a lot less work is to use 3/4" plywood stacks. You can fairly easily incorporate half laps or tenons in the glue stacks. You can also do sturdy legs with just 3 layers formed in an L (staggered at the corner so no 45 degree cuts needed) and still use tenons for the cross pieces. I glued up end frames and left the long side span tenons without glue so I can knock it down if I ever need to move it out my workshop.
The issue is that 3/4" plywood right now costs a lot more than 2x lumber does, and I think he wanted to do a bench for the people, so to speak.
Great video. Will start considering cutting down larger dimensional lumber in the future instead of 2x4’s. I still think I would go with box top with dog holes though if it was gonna be my only bench. I love the clamping versatility they give.
It is quite nice using wider wood! I recently picked up 2x12s for one project! Its crazy how for almost cheaper per piece by wood amount I can get a nicer piece of wood with even less warping overall! Even without a thickness planer I can trim the rounded edges on a table saw and have a surprisingly good piece of 2x11 by 8ft segment for $12!
I have been using 2x8s and 2x10s and milling them down for years. They tend to be a lot better than the 2x4s quality wise, and it ends up costing a lot less. Thanks for another great video.
didnt realise this til i watched a video on.. literally this. You think youre saving money buying cheap 2x4's (which are great for construction) but if youre milling it down etc buying the biggest lumber you can saves money
@@charlesreid9337 it is easier to find straight boards too. Some of the 2x4s look like they would go around a corner without bending them.
I also like getting kiln dried instead of green lumber because it's more stable.
same here
My experience is just the opposite. The tricks they use to speed up kilning pretty much guarantee that what you get to pick through is more likely to resemble a rotini than usable lumber.
After watching Rex Krueger, I'll just say that he flattens his bench with a handplane every year. He skips finishing the bench because he knows that he'll plane it again. Rex Krueger has made a few workbench designs over the years, and his channel is primarily about handtool woodworking.
Just finish with thin shellac + wax/oil finish, or just the wax/oil finish. Takes like 5 min for the shellac and another 5 min for the wax. It will prevent glue from sticking and is easier to clean. It also repells water and IMO the wood feels nicer to the touch. Also, easier to slide wood over the surface.
The last bench I made had a leg vise and an apron on one side, which was super useful. Next bench I made will have a leg vise again, but instead of an apron, I'll probably put in a sliding apron, like some Roubo benches have. I want to add a tail vise, too. One of the things that I did the best I could at the time was to put in a bunch of 1/2" dog holes. This time, I'll make sure they're all 3/4. Back then, I couldn't make them bigger because I only had an eggbeater drill. Now I have a couple bit braces and larger bits, and it's a lot easier to make bigger holes.
A drill guide (hole drilled cleanly in a piece of wood) should help, too. Prevent the bit from wandering. Run it up against a straightedge clamped to the top.
@@scottwillis5434 That's a good idea!
I could see you being a belt and suspenders man for safety, so it makes sense it would be in your builds too. Excellent work mate!
Love the video format, the sense of humor, and the get-to-the-point presentation.
The half lap is a good joint, underrated. The full lap though holds a cat and a dog. I made my workbench out of the family dining room table, 8' mid-century modern mahogany with 2 leaves, seats 16. Made a coffee table out of the leaves, unscrewed the toothpick legs and screwed on 4 4x6 glue lams, cross bracing and a bottom shelf from a massive butcher block. It's only 3/4" but well made so it stays flat and doesn't budge at over 300 lbs. I get a lot of good ideas from you and others to stay busy, as a retired sparky.
Nice! I used 4-4x8 for the base and attached the 4x4 corner posts with 12” landscaping screws. 2x4 and 3/4 MDF make the top. No diagonal braces in the way of storage. Solid as a rock for 20 years and counting.
The construction pine top is completely ridiculous in many climates, especially for the average home woodworker with a garage that is not fully climate controlled. Good plywood like high ply baltic birch (NOT construction plywood) with a layer of sacrificial MDF / HDF layer on top is the smart way to go. Also spreading glue with a paint roller is silly and leaves bubbles depending on your glue. Buy a few sizes of Brayer rollers for printmaking and never look back.
You could have made a dog extension for the old table. Hardwood would be the easier material to make it out of. You could also use aluminum since carbide blades or an angle grinder would make easily grind a slot in two pieces that are then JB welded or epoxied together. Adding to that a chain that keeps it attached to the vice and you have a readily available dog as if the vise was mounted flush.
This is frankly astonishing production value for such a small channel surprised there aren't more subs
I wanted to practice 1/2 laps and so I made 3 custom scaffolds for installing a boatload of T&G. What I found is that cutting them on the tablesaw proved a work out for the blades. Now I'm not certain how much work they had already seen but I'm through two at the moment with two laps left to cut. I think I'll try getting the edges close and then try a couple passes with the circ saw then switching to chisels the next time. Thanks for the vid - gave me pause as I need to do something like this next. Cheers!
Great video: Filming, production. Knowlege and commitment to your art. Dry humor just enriches the experience. Learned things too about wood itself. Inspiring. If only I had the time in life to try to build something like you do. Wish I could hire you to make a nice bench. The work of a skilled, dedicated professional craftsman is worth paying for!
The humor has to be dry to prevent cupping.
People make time for the things they value.
Wider boards will release tension when ripped, so what can start as a nice straight 10” could likely end up as two 5” bananas. Not saying don’t do it or that this guys is wrong (certainly not wrong about the pith placement nor the general quality/dryness of wider vs narrower boards) but it’s something worth mentioning and preparing for.
THANK you. I was thinking the same thing.
Also, I think for a first workbench, worrying about 2x4 warp is just not a big deal. Do you know how hard it is to do anything without anything resembling a workbench? It's damned near impossible. Going from no workbench to workbench + tool rack behind workbench took me from not being able to do jack shit that I actually wanted to do to pretty much being able to do whatever I want. The first workbench is your beater workbench that you use for aggressive tasks. The second one you build can be the one you really engineer and design well, where you have the work surface and experience to actually build a nice workbench. I'm glad I didn't cave into the pressure of feeling like I had to have some beautiful dead flat bench, and eventually just hacked together something of my own design that incorporates design elements of other workbenches. I built my bench with very little joinery - the only joinery in it are a couple of half lap joints that don't even cut into the legs. The thing is built like a truck, yet it can be broken down and transported in a car. It's not a super flat surface, but it's not bad at all. I built a lyre with it, I could certainly build a guitar with it or another instrument, since I built the lyre like a guitar.
@@hellomate639 Okay, well, quite literally the first sentence out of his mouth is this is his third workbench, but none of the points you're making are wrong. HOWEVER: I don't agree with Not putting in the effort to get the bench as ideal as possible. If nothing else, when one decides to enter the craft, then they've committed to themselves they want to work with wood. There's not a single technique you'd use on a workbench where it WOULDN'T be useful to develop skill in, for the everything-else-youll-ever-do AS a woodworker. Moreover, a workbench is a jig. The most important jig you own. A jig who's sole purpose is HOLDING WOOD in whatever orientation you need. The better the bench, the easier you've made every aspect of your future journey. That said: really there's 3 things that count in a workbench: 1. MASS. You want the thing as heavy as you can make it. Doesn't matter if the weight is REMOVABLE, though. I know guys who put two shelves on the bottom there. Top one for exactly what he describes, bottom one for bags of concrete mix just stacked. 2. Grippy. The more dog holes, vises, stops, and holding options you can cram into it, the better ("jig", recall). With that in mind: the more contiguous flat surfaces the better too. If you gotta hold a sheet of plywood on end, you need as much positive contact as possible. 3. As flat is as reasonable/you are capable of getting it. Even luthiers need a flat surface they can rely on. If it's caddywompus, so is everything built atop it. My first benchtop was 28x66x1/4-inch (71cm x 168cm x 6mm) plywood... ...glued to a 1-1/4-inch (32mm) thick piece of plate _glass_ the same size (It had been a conference room tabletop from a local office building. I paid em $10 for it as they were moving out). Dead. Flat. I STILL have it as an assembly table. And before anyone tells me how irresponsible a glass surface is, a piece of glass those dimensions weighs over 200lbs (90kg), and can literally handle a CAR driving over it. It took 3 of us to get it back to the shop. The plywood was only there in case I dropped a hammer or something; I didn't wanna _chip_ it. There's all KINDS of ways to get a flat benchtop. Even if you don't yet have a bench to build it atop.
@@grumblycurmudgeon When your fiance needs the garage and you're under a time crunch, you kind of make due with not necessarily getting it dead flat, at least not right away. I would add... a flush vice face on the front is also super useful. Dog holes can be added as needed. I think maybe part of my comment comes from the fact that despite some jankiness in some cosmetic elements of my bench, it is very sturdy and almost feels like its made out of one piece. Joinery is miserable without a bench, so sweating over it when you lack a bench isn't worth it, IMHO. It's much better to learn it when you have the bench available, and I recommend also putting up a pegboard tool rack/magnetic strip for tools. My workbench is essentially an English style bench with a flat space on the bottom to toss saws and hand planes. It has quasi-joints made out of two by fours screwed and glued, with 2x6s sandwiched between. It's well-designed as first benches go, IMHO. So, spend time on the design that you can build.
I learnt a lot and have now concluded on my workbench design: the slanted brace, modular storage and heavy duty levelling feet. Thanks
Thank you so much for posting this. I spent the past 12 months lost in a hellscape of over-engineering a workbench in sketchup that I would end up never building. You might have saved my workbench project from disaster
I like the offsetting trick with the drill bits, that was a simple and clever way to account for the kerf. One thing I initially struggled with is: how to build a good flat workbench when you lack a workbench with a good reference surface starting out with. :)
If it's just for the glue up, by using the floor perhaps?
My workshop is in my basement, and the concrete make potato chips look flat. haha! There's a 2" pitch over just 4 feet. I can put marbles down and watch them roll. I ended up getting an 8' aluminum level, and then shimming up a platform to get pretty flat.@@SaltyMikan
@@MMMS75 just get a large composite sheet of any kind, like plywood, put that on literally anything and use it as an improvised workbench. Obviously, it's not gonna be a loadbearing or anything like that, but it will be flat.
For a good bench top, try finding a broken Glu Lam at your local lumber yard. They do happen. I found a 16 ft 5 1/4" x 15" that had come off the end of a truck and broke in half. Very cheap. Made a great bench top.
I appreciate the humor! Also such a wealth of knowledge- thank you
Well done, Scott! As I'm trying to grow my own channel and business, I often get inspiration from other KZhead woodworkers. I really like how you executed your video. Well spoken (do you use a teleprompter), great tips throughout, entertaining and made me laugh a few times. Bravo. I'll be taking some notes from you on how to improve my own videos. Subscribed!
Nice build. For anyone putting a bench like this in a conditioned space let the construction lumber sit in the space for a few weeks to a month before building to give it time to dry out.
Unless you move the bench often, it is easier to just keep a couple of furniture dollies around. They have plenty of capacity and you can lift each end of the bench with a floor jack if it is too heavy to pick up by hand and slip a dolly under each end. Then move the bench where you want it and remove the dollies. Pretty easy and saves having those ugly caster wheels sticking out in the way on both ends all the time.
Thanks for your wonderful video. It reminds me of when I did my workbench. When I was planning my workbench, I slowly accumulated 2x4s from my local Home Depot. Even when I wasn't there to purchase wood, I still looked at what was there and would often pick up a few pieces. Even though the lumber was technically kiln-dried, I let the lumber sit in my garage for a year, stored horizontally. I purchased far more pieces than I knew I would need since during the drying process, unexpected warping and twisting would likely occur. When I was ready to do the actual glue-up, I ran all the pieces through my small portable planer to get absolutely flat and clean surfaces. The lumber ended up perhaps 1-3/8" wide. I only glued up about 5 or 6 pieces at a time, since like you, I didn't want the glue to dry prematurely. When the slab was ready for leveling and flattening, I had a local cabinet shop do it for me. Instead of planing it and then sending it through their wide belt sander, they avoided the planer altogether. They simply used the belt sander for the entire process. The shop brought it down to exactly 3", with no tear-out whatsoever. It was dead flat, a feat I absolutely could not do myself. Their final run was at 100 grit. I then finish sanded. It was a more expensive way to go, but I lacked the skill to flatten such a large slab about 27" x 96" with any consistency. The slab was shortened to 6" or 6.5" (I forgot the actual tabletop size).
You're a genuinely funny guy who is anything but boring like so many are. Plus, a real woodworker who keeps it moving. Don't have to put on 2x playback speed to keep my attention. Enjoyed this very much, thanks. 73 year old retired woodworker son of a cabinetshop ownder from Ohio. pa: Your filmography is astounding and actually very rare on KZhead, as is your vocabulary. Way to go!
You can't stop me, video title! See, this is why I installed alternating cross-braces under my surface, and put a high density particle board over it instead of gluing a bunch of boards together and sanding them down. Easy to fix, fill or replace. That workbench was a beast, had a built-in table saw, tons of storage for all my tools, a place for grips, and was so sturdy you could jump up and down on it without the slightest movement. Way bigger than I needed! But goodness did I enjoy it. It was just small enough I could drag it around by myself, one side at a time. I hope the people we sold the house to are making good use of it.
i hate particle board but i use it on all my benchs other than the welding bench. THICK pb is cheap, flat, dimensionally stable and you dont care if you cut into it etc. Note i used a reworked oak pallet for the welding bench.. worked great
@@charlesreid9337 Exactly! Short-term, even if you gouge it really bad, a quick swipe of wood fill and you're on your way like nothing happened. Several years later, drop a new top on it in 20 minutes and it's back to new!
Don't ever stop doing these! Awesome pro video skills and even better projects that are realistic!
It's fun to see that video. I made my workbench like 6 month ago, and it kinda looks like that. I have diagonals to make it sturdy, wheels to be able to move it, and it's made from cheap lumber. I used 3 2x8 for the top. I don't really get why yours is made like that, and I may have problems later, but for now on, I really like mine. I used some wood stain and floor varnish for the top in order to protect the wood a bit. If at some point there is wayy to much dent for me, i'll just have to sand it and put some more floor varnish to restore it I think.
Hands down the best music in videos in the whole DIY genre!
Ok … great build …. But …. Your editing skills are beyond anything I’ve seen in a long while …. Excellent production / editing skills, just excellent! Thank You for time well spent …. !!
Step 1: Have $10,000 in equipment.
To be fair, that describes every woodworking video ever.
You need to find your inner scrounger and buy used. I got my table saw, band saw, planer and circular saw for less than 300 bucks combined. Most of them are contractor/jobsite grade mobile tools but they get the job done.
Best I find in my area is really old stuff a widow is selling... @@schuylerashton813
Wranglerstar is on KZhead. He had a series on building a work bench and smooths it with a hand plane.
I could build that bench with hand tools. They aren’t free either tho lol
This will come in handy, as I'm building my shop from scratch. Thank you!
The rare DIY video where I laughed, learned, and loved...your scripted and editing. Definitely subscribed. The point about the pith and 2x4s was super interesting. I will never discount a 2x8 as overkill again. Thanks for the great video.
Me Too
I personally use 2x10's or bigger and cut down from there. That way, you have a choice of using southern yellow pine (at least in my area on the east coast) rather than white pine which is basically junk in comparison.
The advantage of 2x10 or 2x12 is you can select those with the pith running right down the middle. When you to these boards, what you are left with is quartersawn stock. This is more stable than anything else. Plan to let the stock air dry for a couple of months at least. Kiln dried can be good if you can get it, but spot check that the boards are not case hardened. You can Google that. Basically, you are checking that the boards were not pushed too fast in the kiln and the boards could have internal stresses in them, and warp.
Find a heavy duty metal filing cabinet and build it into the base of the work bench. The file cabinets are designed to hold a lot of weight and work great for power tools or whatever.
My 25 year-old computer desk is a solid core door on top of a pair of 2-drawer file cabinets.. 😎
I have metamorphosed into a crusty old hermit who works with wood in my garage. Love your work bench! 🥰 I enjoyed all the points you made in this video - Thank You. 👍
Another tip is to stack up any wood, you buy from a big box store, with stickering for a year per inch of thickness. That allows their wet wood to fully dry and it shouldn’t cup anymore.
Scott, thanks for your honesty. Very few creators admit their mistakes.
Dude! I’m going to make this at some point now that I have a bigger shop. I could use a better hand tool workbench than my cheap Harbor freight workbench. Great video!
Cheap doesn't always mean bad
Your enunciation is super perfect. Nice work, as well..
Your delivery and quips are intoxicating🤣🤣
Thank you for your videos! As usual, I always "borrow" an idea or two from your work. Your video editing skills are great, very fluid...
Thanks Eric!
Fun to watch, informative, and impressive to see the detail and quality of your work. Thanks, Scott.
Nice looking bench, appreciate the thoughtfulness in the design.
"....to whisk it away"! Oh I was so hoping you could finish that alliteration. :) Awesome video. Learned a lot. Thank you!
This is MUCH easier: we are not making furniture, we are making a workbench. Just use particle board for the working surface. It is flat, smooth, inexpensive, you can clamp to the edge easily. And after drilling into it a bunch of times or screwing into it to hold your work in place, you just mix glue and sawdust to patch it back up! Save the furniture making for furniture.
I use mdf, doesn't chip as easily as particle board.
@@bobshaker yup! good smooth surface.
Wow man you really got it all figured out
How heavy do you think your workbench is? I'm looking to build a table that doesn´t sag for some computer equipment. Someone recommended me to solder some metal angles for a sturdy lasting frame. The problem is that the table need wheels and I'm afraid they won't hold the weight of the equipment + the metal frame.
Mine is similar, but I found it was too light. So, also at home depot are those 12" x 12" concrete pavers came in handy. I put them under the floorboards of the bottom shelf. I was able to put 8 of them under there, and 2 between each leg front to back. Now when I plane a board, the bench not only won't wrack, but it simply won't move either. And that is great. And I ca still put it on those cool casters.
stumbled across this video and although i always weld up steel workbenches and generally fabricate in steel , i like your style of presenting though and eventually i would like to do more involved timber projects so ive subscribed and will look out for your video feeds and see what happens
One of the cool things about videos like this is that I am absolutely certain that when I get around to building a work bench, I will have forgotten all the tips and make all the same mistakes you made. That or; I will have forgotten all the work bench videos I watched, think of all the tips I heard in them, and think I'm a genius for thinking up all the cool ideas on how to make a awesome workbench the first time.
Built a bench with legs much like this near two decades ago. I used reclaimed 4x4 timber for the legs and old reclaimed 2x4s for the cross braces. I both glued and deck screwed the cross braces. For the top I deviated from your idea and used a solid core 36x84" commercial fire rated door which is very stable dimensionally and had a 1/4" hard wood veneer on both sides. For my surface though, I used a sheet of 16Ga 304 stainless steel that I had bent at a precision sheet metal fabrication shop to fit tightly over the door and wrap around and under the front edge. I TIG welded, ground, and polished the corners on the front for a clean and safe finish. Solid is an under statement!
Finally, someone who uses dowels instead of dominos to line up a seam. Thank you for keeping it simple.
Did you do an audio recording dub on this? It's good, but it's giving me this slight uncanny valley as there is the SLIGHTEST offset in some shots.
I am actually working on the ash workbench right now. Yes, I am a hermit, I have no social life, I hate money, and I love the smell of contact cement. My wife loves telling people I'm a woodworker and explaining to them that the reason we have almost no custom built furniture in the house is because I spend all my time making needlessly elaborate shop furniture that only I will ever use. In any case, the build is coming along real well. I never worked with ash before, but now I want to use it all the time. It reminds me of oak in terms of appearance, but it's softer, lighter, and a lot easier to work with (and it's pretty cheap!). Probably the best species for shop projects in my opinion.
I learned a great deal about wood construction theory from your video, especially about identifying plank pithing!!
This guy is too funny! I’m not a woodworker and I found the dry humor highly entertaining
"Im not apart of the problem, you are" love that @1:40
That little jab was my favorite part of this video. Scott's light-hearted, punny quips throughout his videos are exactly why I've recommended this channel to others, but that comment was fairly direct 👍👍👍 Also, he builds nice stuff
Stunning work, on the bench walkthrough and the hundred small jokes inserted in the gaps!
You slammed that point home in a way I didn't realize I knew and practiced already, AVOID THE PITH, rip larger lumber to get nice flat and square edges! Thanks for your humor and vulnerability!
Here we have another video showing us how to used 5000 dollars worth of power tools along with 1400 dollars worth of clamps to make a 150 dollar bench someone with those tools would never want. Brilliant
Nice video Mr. Walsh. I like the way you work your wood.
Thank you for a very well put together tutorial, this will go a long way in building my own! 👍👍
Appreciate your video style and humor! Oh, and also your skill and enlightenment.
Most dangerous thing I've done on my table saw is rip 2x material, they all have crazy stresses inside them and are released as you go to rip them in half. Much safer on a bandsaw if you have it.
Great looking bench! I've been meaning to add a secondary bench to my shop and I'll probably incorporate some elements from this one into my design. And don't worry Scott, profiting from your work doesn't make you a capitalist. As long as you aren't exploiting someone else's labor for profit you should be in the clear.
Nice job, very lucky to have a classic old cast iron planer!
Fantastic video sir I’ve never seen a removable version of this flip down wheels! Genius!
Humans have been building tables from wood for 6 thousand years. All the issues, kinks, and designs have been worked out and tried. Still somebody has to try reinvent it again.
a 2x4 workbench is meant to be easily made with bare essentials, here you are with thousands of dollars in tools.
This… lol you are correct good sir. This dude is something else
He used a skillsaw and a table saw. Those are two very basic woodworking tools. If you don't have those, you aren't making a bench. Everything else he used (pull saw, orbital sander, planer, etc) can be replaced by basic tools. A 2x4 bench requires the same tools.
You're not getting flat or square without a planer and some combination of jointer or table saw. These are all tools most people get AFTER they build their first big sturdy workbench like this. I'd advocate getting a 500ish 13" planer first if you're set on buying home depot wood. Save for the table saw to get a cabinet. With that you can plane all the faces true and do your lamination in three surface passes.
@@loquist42 Okay, so despite my firsthand knowledge from building my first 2x4 bench without using any power tools besides a drill, why exactly are we going the route chosen in this video? the whole premise is to use the cheapest materials possible with a clickbait title of "dont use 2x4's, use expensive equipment and rip down 2x8's teehee". It is a bit nonsensical and doesnt help anyone who is debating making a 2x4 bench for their first time around. Those are the people who are going to be making a 2x4 bench in the first place.
@beginningbotany9523 By that logic he should be using a manual hand drill and screwdrivers. Hell, your argument could be used to argue that only dowels should be used instead of nails and glue. Maybe only copper chisels from ancient times. Your argument can be used to eliminate all power tools because a drill costs money. No clamps either, dude, because that shit costs money!! You sound like those dipshits who say "ReAl wOoDwoRkIng UsEs aLL HaNd ToOls!!!" It's a stupid damned argument. He used the most basic of woodworking tools on the build. If you don't have those tools, you're not doing anything with woodworking. My first 2x4 bench used a table saw and a cheap belt sander from Harbor Freight. Why? Because I recognize that tools are needed for woodworking. Fact: a table saw is the most basic of woodworking tools. I'm sorry you feel the need to bitch about that fact.
3rd time watching this one, the tree joke always gets me, 😂 you the best!
Great video. You have very good woodworking skills! Excellent video edition by the way! Kudos!
"... my delightfully half-assed stick model." - CLASSIC!
I'm about to build my first workbench and luckily ran across this video! I'll be buying your plans very soon! Thanks!
it is a nice design, but have a look at a few more before you make a decision, each of us has different needs and workflow and individual workbenches reflect that. you might best of with a screwed together solid frame with either plywood or mdf on top and add to that bench before you figure out what really works best for your needs. also about this particular build - the diagonals were necessary because Scott bolted the top to the frame, that connection is not ridgid enough as the top serves as upper part of the frame. If he put used second stretchers on top of the legs (half lapped or mortised) the build would be sturdy. My personal workbench has lower stretchers hosting a shelf and the legs have through tenons running trough 3" benchtop and as that is a ridgid connection, I've never had a racking problem.
@@petrsidlo7614Yup. I've been putting it off for YEARS because I couldn't decide what I wanted to do. I need a table next month to start my first epoxy river table and this one fits the bill perfectly, especially once I resize it to support a sheet of plywood. I've been leaning towards a style like this for ease-of-construction and versatility.
Thanks for another great episode, Scott. It might retrofit some braces to my workbench now.
Nice bench Scott. As a maker of custom workbenches, I like your mods to prevent (or at least resist) racking. Thank you for demonstrating how easy (& strong) half laps are. Well worth the time to use half laps, even w/ a skillsaw & chisel. One question: which brand of parallel clamps do you prefer? I’ve seen the same clamps in your other videos, but haven’t been able to capture the brand. Thanks for all of your productions. Nice to know that there’s another maker out there working in a one-car garage.
You have a nice work bench! I alway put one board crown up the next crown down this practically eliminates bowing.
You are, without a doubt, my new favorite KZheadr as well as Craftsman! Love love LOVE your methods & sense of humor! Quick question, slightly off topic from this video..... any suggestions for how to make accurate long rip cuts without a table saw? I've got a skill saw, limited amount of clamps, speed squares, a couple small work benches, 1 big metal work bench, miter saw, dremels, plunge router aaaaand I think that's about it as far as possibly useful tools. Help?
Some have reported good results with the Kreg "Rip-Cut" and/or "Accu-Cut" jigs with their skill saws. It basically makes for a poor man's track-saw, but a lot less expensive. I haven't tried them, because I dove in head-first and bought a track saw (which I absolutely love).
2x8s can also be made of southern yellow pine (SYP) instead of spruce, pine, or fir (SPF). SYP is way harder and more goodly.
Thank you, Scott. Quality work and design.😊
I like that what is presented here that's most useful are the various concepts. The specific design is nice but not as important as the concepts driving it. So you can easily apply the same concepts to a various workbench designs.
Had to subscribe not just for the great content, but also cause you crack me up! Great stuff. 😇
Good plans Scott. Really enjoyed it.
Nice video and explanations throughout. Well done!
I love the Scott Walsh videos! 😀
Great video. I just found your channel and I have subscribed! I like your style!
"gooder" I love it! Thank same my baby son used to say. Finally video from you ❤
My 2X4 w 4x4 legs bench has served me well since I built it in 1987. It has 2X12 top & 8 drawers !
Cool bench, great tutorial. Thanks for posting.