Chuck shows you how to fix bad 3D prints on Creality 3D printers such as Creality Ender 3, CR-10 and CR-10 Mini. There are many reasons a print may fail but if you have your settings are right and your nozzle isn't clogged what could it be?
He shows you an issue that is easy to fix and you probably didn't even know you had it on this week's Filament Friday.
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DUDE, you saved my prints. I was so frustrated with my CR10, which I bought used. I was getting ready to sell it. Now it prints fricking PERFECT. I will try to save few bucks so I can support you on Patreon! THANK YOU VERY MUCH!
Awesome feedback. Glad I could help.
I got so frustrated with this problem over the last two months that I went from having two printers running 100% to turning one off and only periodically using the other. Thank you for yet another great video!
I just discovered this myself yesterday, and I made a similar fix to the one you highlighted. My prints look just as good as they did at the peak of my machine. Came to see if this was covered on any of my favorite 3d printing youtube channels, and here I am. You have helped me figure out so many minor issues on my printer, your channel is invaluable. Thank you for all you do.
man , creality owes you a lot of gratitude , ill tell you what. You've solved more problems and answered more questions about my ender 3 than any other content creator or website
Glad I could help.
Thank you so much for this! I wasn't able to make 1 successful print with my CR-10S, had already replaced the entire hotend and was getting ready to replace the extruder motor. However, it turned out to be the spring! I'm filled with joy to see that my printer work after a solid week and a half of tinkering.
I have to say between this video and your other one about the nozzle and bowden tube replacement you have helped bring my Cr-10 mini back to life. I am enjoying printing again because of these fixes, thanks you SOOO much!
WOW...I just went through figuring this out on my own over the last two days!!! Finally worked back to the extruder, and BINGO...Clogged up with dust and other gunk because arm was too tight! Wish you published this Wednesday!! Keep up the good work!
It's like you have a 6th sense on to what is going on with my machines. You never fail to provide quality, helpful videos. Thank you!
its not just your machine, but remember the CR series use very similar hardware and setup . not the best by any means, but very good to tweak and make work to the best of the abilities
Chuck, I just did these to my Ender and it just helped immensely with some print quality. I have been chasing this for a couple weeks now, thank you!
THANK. YOU. SO. MUCH. you saved my drive to keep learning 3D printing. One month of constant issues (with some successes inbetween) and this seems to have fixed it. 110% scaling was a great tip too, simply amazing!
I have been having trouble printing nylon on my ender 3 for about a month now. I couldn't find what my issue was. It was exactly what was covered in this video. Thank you!
As usual, more good, solid, easy to follow info for people who don't know what to look for👍 nice work as usual Chuck👌
Man. Lovely video. Please keep continuing these videos. I use them All the time when people have issues and you make great and simple videos
I don't have these problems yet and I have a CR10 V3 but this video has taught and prepared me well for the upcoming maintenance. Thanks a lot!
I have had under extrusion issues for awile. After watching this video, and trying the suggestongs from CHEP, I never had the issues again. Thank You!
Thanks for all the great vids. This one saved me a lot of frustration. I kept having prints with minimal filament in some areas, to the point where prints would fail on a regular basis because is all the weak points. I was focusing on the nozzle but it was in fact the tension on that arm that was not pushing through enough filament.
Thank you Chuck! you always manage to show me what i need to see!. Have a great weekend!
Just installed a BLtouch on my ender 3 pro thinking it would solve this issue but sure enough loosening that screw was all I needed. Thank you so much!
Hi Chep, you have a really nice clear way of explaining this stuff. Thankyou for your content
Great tips once again. I eventually wore a slot into the filament inlet hole of the plastic extruder arm on my CR-10 from the filament after many prints. I suggest replacing the whole assembly with the metal version or other extruder of your choice like Chuck did on his CR-10 mini.
I love your videos they are very informative and you manage to keep them interesting. Keep up the good work.
Wanted to thank you for sharing this video - set up my 3rd Ender 3 Pro this last week. It was all dialed in - e-steps calibrated, aluminum extruder, no movement in the bed, bed leveled, belts tensioned, fresh nozzle, Capricorn tubing, z-axis aligned, but I kept getting odd blobs, occasionally dropped "chunks" of filament and weak infill. Following your advice and checking the extruder for issues, the spring appeared to be putting too much pressure against the filament, so I cut off the last coil of the spring to weaken it a bit, reinstalled, and it's printing beautifully now. Thank you for sharing your time and discoveries with the world.
Wow it's as if I typed this comment myself. I had all the same exact problems and the aluminum extruder and it was chewing the filament, too much pressure from spring. I was so tempted to cut the last coil off too...it just popped up in my head one night while I couldn't sleep. I was going to do it the next day, but didn't want to permanently damage it and have to get another. So instead I put the old spring on and I'm having other problems now. After seeing your comment, I'm going to cut the last coil off the new spring. Thanks for sharing!
By the way, how tight did you tighten the belts? I never know how tight they are supposed to be. I'm probably overthinking it though.
@@waynefilkins8394 Hope it helps!
@@waynefilkins8394 I have a belt tensioner on the XY carriage and I use a pair of needle nose pliers for leverage on the Y. I just adjust them so there's no slack and are tight, but not tight enough that they inhibit movement or risk breaking.
Just torn my ender 3 back to bare parts turns out it was the extruter tensioner bearing that was too tight causing under extrusion 🥵😱🤦🏽♂️ thank God for filament Friday. Mate you're a bloody legend
I have actually been struggling with this, so thank you!
your videos are so awesome. thank you so much for making these and helping people like me who are having troubles with 3d printing.
Changing fro the ender 3 plastic extruder to the metal one fixed all my feed problems. Thank you!!!!
Hey Chuck, thanks for the video. Last night I converted my Ender 3 to use an MKS Gen L board and the TMC 2100 drivers... And, I printed my very first CHEP cube. It came out fantastic.
Thank you. It's amazing the difference one little screw can make.
you beautiful S.O.B! i'v been pulling my hair out in frustration, trying to figure out what was wrong, and your recommendation for that mod piece for the spring has instantly shown better results! thank you!
Glad it helped.
Just had this problem. Stumbled across the answer after fighting with it for a couple weeks. Wish you would have uploaded this a month ago!
Geeetech also has a recurring issue with spring being too weak or relaxing over time. But it's compounded by the fact that by increasing preload, you make it more likely to break the lever. I found myself a printable lever with adjustment screw and i'm using that now, with the original lever stored away in case of breakage. I also got myself one of those $4 alu extruders and also put it in a box for later.
Once again THANK YOU! For no apparent reason I started having this problem with my Elegoo Neptune2. I drove myself crazy for for the next 24hrs trying to figure out what had changed and what was causing the problem. Watched your video and bam, problem solved.
Thank you!!!! My extruder gear had a tiny bit of filament built up on it (hardly noticeable). Cleaned it with a wire brush and my print came out perfect!! Funny how a small amount of crap on the gear can effect your print
Hi. I found that loosening the idler screw even a bit makes it go even more off in time. And because of the spring tension it actually makes the idler screw tilt out of z Axis causing the idler Bering to rotate on a different plane that is slightly off from the motor gear's( so not xy anymore). That makes the filament to get ground too. So keep it as tight as reasonable and check regularly.
Just got a Ender 3 Pro and you saved the day! Thank you
Wonderful video on extruder maintenance! However, there is so much more to it. One important thing worth checking in case of extrusion problems is actually how tight the gear sits on the motor shaft. It sometimes gets loose and every retract you have spoils your extrusion because of the gear's backlash. I also agree with suggestion on buying new metal extruder, since the stock plastic idler's quality is... unstable, as far as I know (I personally know 4 people who had their idlers cracked after first month of printing).
Could not agree more on the above. I first reprinted a replacement in 100% infill PLA on the prusa , but the metal one is so much better.
You are the only person on KZhead that could solve my problem. Thank you very much I’m subscribed and following.
Glad I could help.
Great video Chep! Saved me figuring out my gaps!
my prints were suddenly garbage, tried pretty much everything for about a 2 weeks. saw this video and once i took it apart i saw a very visible crack in the extruder arm..right under the idler wheel...this video saved my sanity
Rich.. mine has been doing this as well and i couldnt figure it out... I read your comment.. thinking cracked? Really??.. mine is printing garbage as well.. I should look.. and I will be darn.. I have a crack under my idler wheel as well... WTH... Thanks for writing that.. I would have never looked unless I read your comment... Off to amazon to get a new part. ty!!!
Thanks for sharing, I look forward to trying this when I get home this evening. Also my experience is it prints fine with the black filament I'm using but the pink filament from the same brand always prints gaps at what seems to be random levels in the print. After watching your video im wondering if maybe in my case the cleanliness of the extruder gear and spring tension could also be exaggerated by a slightly softer composition in the filement being used. I suppose the punch line being keep an eye on your gear and spring tension.
Yep I was having this same issue on my Ender 3 and I ended up breaking the plastic extruder hardware and replaced it with the aluminum kit. Now I'm back to great prints.
I will try your suggestions....its happening same problem as you described in both machines (Ender 3 and CR10)....I will inform you later on results...as alwas...tks for amazing hints
Sir, ALL your videos saved my life when I face a problem .. Thank you
You’re welcome
Had the same problems, intermittent under extrusion on my ender 3. tried everything, and then noticed the heater block had some movement. tighten the two screws and everything is fine now. Makes sense as the nozzle is connected directly to the heater block.
I had some problems with some PLA from a specific brand that seemed to have a more slippery surface which made my extruder slip even with a shim on the spring. I took a small triangular file and sharpened all the teeth on the extruder gear to give it better traction and have had no problems since.
I swapped out the plastic with the creality upgraded aluminum parts and replaced the spring with one of the extra yellow bed springs I had laying around to give it a little more consistent pressure
Not a fan of the Creality extruders. The gears are soft and tend to grind the filament when a lot of pressure is involved. It also can't handle flexible filament without modifications and destroys itself over time due to the filament grinding on the plastic on the entrance. I replaced it with a dual hobbed extruder. It is hardened and has a gear reduction.
Man.... Saw your video, saw the loosening of the extruder screw.... Made me laugh. Decided to try anyway.... Perfect prints, just perfect prints.... Beautiful. Thank you so much
Same I was very skeptical also, but it finally fixed my issues with random missing filament in layers.
@CHEP, actually I just realized I am still having the issue 😅. Thought it went away because I tested with the 20mm calibration cube and there were no issues, however when I do a larger print I still see the issue. Know what could be my problem?
Have you tried a different filament? I got this happening to me again when I use a filament that has been open for a long while, that has moisture on it.
@@coderfromscratch1486 hmm, ive only tried two different rolls of inland pla pro. But printed like that straight outta the box i believe.
@@DillonZac then I have no idea I must say. I ended up upgrading my ender 3 with a new motherboard and adding auto callibration and I can say that I've never had issues again. Hope this helps
Also a can of electronics duster to blow away the plastic clogging the gear works nicely as well.
A printed shim for the spring is easier to install than a spacer. You can also add multiple shims to customize spring pressure.
Great info. I wish I saw this a couple days ago. I was spinning my wheels, till I sat and watched what my printer was doing and found my arm was hanging up.
Going to try this out because I have the same problem but not as bad as others. I get the gaps here and there but it smooth though out but some time feels a bit rough that I have to sand it down a bit. Sometimes I have to use putty/sandpaper if it's a figure and those gaps come out on a face. I'll be trying this out this weekend and will let you know if it worked.
I love watching you. Greetings from Poland
I replaced the extruder with the metal one, also a better filament path that way. works perfectly still my 2nd best printer (cr10mini) after the i3mk3
I tightened the arm half way f=through a print and it made all the difference in the rest of the print
My problem is much much more serious than the examples at the beginning of the video, but I'm going to check if that screw didn't adjust itself, thanks!
I really enjoy your videos! Thank you very much and God bless ya.
Brilliant content as always. Thanks!
I found by just putting a little torque on the extruder arm by pulling it when you load the filament helps lock it in place.
Thank you so much you solved all my printer problems
I was having a similar issue but it was the extruder arm bending over time from the spring and not putting enough pressure on the filament. I put in a stronger spring but that turned out to be a stopgap. Ended up going with a clone bondtech unit and now it's looking great. But they also have metal extruders for cheap depending on where you look (beware of Chinese QC, though, I've had several terrible ones from the likes of ebay and Alliexpress).
I link to a good one in the description.
Thanks Chuck, good things to watch out for.
Excellent info. Thank you very much!
I suffered from those gaps and switched to a clone Bondtech BMG for completely other reasons, my prints have become basically flawless. I never suspected the extruder since it LOOKS like it works even when it sucks.
yeah am thinking about switching too i used it on tevo tarantula and works much better .hope it decrease load on ender 3 motor too.
Thanks for the save. May I buy you a coffee? haha This wasn't my only problem, but it definitely was one. I'm finding out of the box, Creality products need a lot of tuning and tightening to make things right. It's a long bumpy right from them to me.
Dude, you saved my life. Thanks!
Brilliant! Thanks for the time chep
OMG, I LOVE YOU!!!! This solved ALL MY ISSUES! Literally have a brand new printer again!
got the same problems 2 times. the 1st time i didnt know where the problem was, i was rage googling and searchin‘ in youtube for solutions. one day i checked the exruder and just fixed the screw and it was good,. after 2 weeks now i bought a metal extruder because the problem with the plastic extruder wont hold long
Im sure you just same my but on this one i upgraded to direct drive nothing but issuses went back to stock turns out the screw for the idler arm screw was to tight your a life saver i also use a ender 3
That arm itself cracked on the bottom of my Ender 3. I believe it’s a known problem, even Creality makes an upgraded aluminum extruder. Mine cracked right where the threaded insert is making it so there was little to no pressure on the filament causing it to randomly slip.
Quick tip for new viewers, I know you have covered it before but upgrade the extruder to the aluminium type costs about $7 to $10 on eBay it's so much better. Use a little silicone grease when assembling and it will stop the parts binding up over time. Respect Sir another great video.
thank you chep, this was my problem!
That's exactly how the arm on my printer sounded! Wow. I printed a front rail cover for my Ender 3 Pro and when it finished the top half was very weak and stringy. When I removed it the top half was so brittle it broke apart. I did replace my stock extruder with the all metal kit and I noticed the tensioner spring feels tight. Also, while printing I noticed a sound coming from the feeder area that seems to be because the the screws on the new extruder kit are too tight. One last thing. The filament looks like it has bite marks in it like the gear is squeezing too hard on the filament. Please and thx.
Excellent work!
Every couple prints I use air duster, can of air, works great to clean up the wheel tracks & various parts.
I had a very similar issue and the cause was that the grub screws of the pulley of the extruder had come loose. Just tightening those grub screws fixed it. I've read other people experienced the same issue, so it's quite a typical scenario.
Yes first step should be to make sure that things that are supposed to move do and things that aren't supposed to move do not.
Pretty interesting, man! Thanks a lot! 😊
What are small bumps/ridges on the side of the layer where the stroke ends caused by? The extruder slipping slightly when trying to reverse/stop the filament flow and getting a slight over extrusion?
Sometimes you get little knots on the filament spool due to incorrect installation that could prevent the extruder from extruding, you don’t really notice them until they ruin your print, worth checking that out.
You missed the one that cause the most problems, which is, where the incoming filament wears away the hole and catch the filament. Never had anymore problems since changing to the metal version.
Which hole, the nozzle's?
The filament can elongate the feeder hole in the extruder causing friction and poor feeding. The aluminum extruder upgrade permanently fixes the problem. Plastic is cheaper than aluminum, so to save money during manufacturing, they went with the cheaper option.
Thank you. You helped me a lot.
I found that my idler arm had snapped, but you couldnt see it until i took it apart, i ended up printing a new one and that fixed my issues.
I am having this exact issue, but with the SeeCNC EZR extruder. DO you have suggestions for how to resolve this issue on the upgraded extruder. There doesn't appear to be enough room on this extruder to add a spacer to the spring. Thank you in advance for any suggestions you may have Sir!
Does this apply to just having about 1 thick layer failing ? I was printing something right now and I noticed around 2-5 layers are just missing or just very hard to see. I have it on my yt page as well. also how can I support as a Patreon ?
Wow - those problem prints look just like my recent fails with taulman Alloy910 nylon. I don't ?feel? or hear the glitchy thing in the tensioner arm, though, but perhaps that's because the nylon can skip without actually shedding chaff in the process. The thing that I HAVE noticed, but haven't been able to isolate the cause, is that when I measure the amount of filament extruded when I call for 10mm (my usual test) I find results all OVER the MAP - on the SHY side, that is. It ranges between 6.8 and 8.3, approximately, never consistent, never CLOSE to right! Of course, this makes for very sketchy prints, even with my attempt to compensate by setting it to overextrude about 125%. I'm good with PLA and TPU but this nylon makes me crazy. I've had major headaches with his bridge and bluprint before, but that was on another machine. The bridge turned out to be so irregular in its diameter (some actually as fat as 2.04mm) that it was binding in my bowden tube! Naturally, I checked that on this 910 but found it dimensionally proper. Thanks, Chuck, for so generously sharing your due diligence!!! Keep it up!
Thanks, Expert!
Good points Thanks for sharing👍😀
Great video. Do more of what makes you happy :)
Very good video! I recently changed my extruder top from plastic to aluminium and I still have some issues. Sometimes it still makes a "tack tack tack" as if something is stuck. But I am not sure if it is the extruder or a partially blocked nozzle at the hotend.
It may not be extruder, but too low temperature of nozzle, especially when printing too fast. Too cool plastic has hard time to go through nozzle and it makes higher pressure on extruder, which eventually leads to skipping filament.
Hey man, the faster you can get to me the better. I want to get my dad a reliable 3d printer for his birthday. He got one 3 years ago, and what we found out, is its a frame and the rest has to be DIY or you have a frame with a bunch of useless parts. We got one or two awesome prints, and with limited knowledge on the subject we did fairly well. I noticed the bed was warped and that didn't help and after putting in another 50$ to try and solve the frustration that was supposed to be a gift, we gave up. and that's 50$ in multitudes of solutions. The solutions we found stated we would have needed to tear it all down and rebuild from scratch almost buying a new 3d printer worth of parts. I think I have decided on the CR-10 as it just sounds good from everyone, and I do not mind putting time or effort into improving it, My deal is weather or not it will work. If it can't at least work on its own and give me SOMETHING then I want to stay away from it. If it can at least make me the pieces to improve it, I think its worth it. I'm trying to find good sales now, but I have a question: I have found a few versions of the CR-10 mini, and some don't have the new neat upgrades that you showed off in another video I believe. The mini Makes me happy both in price and scale, its actually fairly decent. The standard just gets a bit much for me in price, but is the extra worth it between the mini and standard? Also, it may be me that I can't find the link to the right mini, but would the link to the mini in this video be well enough? if I do not get the mini,what in the world is the difference between the 10 and the 10S? I have 100 coming in so pricing wise, the 10S would be cheaper but only if its better for the 100$. I found a CR-10 that was listed as the Newer version and is more expensive but I don't know whats so much newer with it or if its even worth it. I am trying to understand, let me know if you can!
All the links in description are for good ones. 10S is not worth the extra in my opinion. I use several 10 minis and I like them.
@@FilamentFriday thank you so very much! Have a wonderful day!
The CR10 or CR10s is a really good printer. For me it worked out of the box until I did some tweaking. XD Assembly is easy and you have everything included to start printing on the day you receice it. I think the double lead screw for the z-axis is worth the money but that is personal favour, I think.
Do you have a link to purchase new springs? The original that came with the Ender3 Pro turned to mush in a short period of time.
always very helpful
Thanks, Good advice for any 3D printer. Usually, I'm see that problems like this more when I buy cheap filament. I've heard moisture can be an issue even with PLA. Of course, you get what you pay for. But any advice on troubleshooting bad filament and any possible tips on how to fix it (ex. filament dryers, etc.)?
I print with TPU sometimes and it gets to be really bad after a few hours out of a drybox. I use the tried and true method of sticking it in the oven or food dehydrated for about 6 hours before printing then keeping the filament dry. But you can check this as a before and after but typically PLA doesn't really absorb that much moisture unless you live in an extremely humid climate.
The middle one is good? The layers look better than the right and left, sure, but layer inconsistency shows on the left side big time
Thanks chep, yuo became my ender 3 guru :D
Man I was killing myself trying to figure that one out! This saved my prints! My screw was really tight!, loosened it and now everything is good! Thanks!
I've had layer gaps even with the AL extruder. Never saw any signs of slippage. Also running a microswiss w/ 1.5 retraction and linear advance.
I am still having this issue, I have done the following: Replaced rollers on X and under bed, replaced plastic extruder for TH3D aluminum version w/steel gear, replaced bodin setup for the direct drive unit, increased flow rate up to 110%, tried different brand filament including inland, 3d solutech, Amazon basics, hatchbox, replaced nozzle more than once and have taken hot end apart multiple times to "reseat" the TPFE on the nozzle. I guess I am going to check the V-REF on all of the steppers next?
I don't know, does it FEEL like the motors are driving rigidly and strongly enough? In my opinion you should feel a good bit of heat being developed on the motors when they're powered long enough, but not too hot, though how hot is too hot, depends. On Geeetech electronics and 4988 StepSticks i cool them with a 2000rpm 80mm fan for the whole board (+92mm 1500rpm for power supply), i drive the motors to about 40°C equilibrium, and in motion it feels like they could take my arm off if i'm not careful - the StepSticks are at a comfortable temperature too. But obviously i have a lot more DIY cooling than is available on Creality or just about anything from the factory, so i can push things a lot harder before they start to develop issues. Besides not enough drive current to perform the motion, if the stepper IC overheats, it will temporarily reduce the drive current to a very low amount until the temperature recovers. The overheating occurs due to a combination of too much drive current and not enough cooling, and i'm not sure whether it can be exacerbated by mechanical resistance. Since Creality in their infinite wisdom decided to couple the board cooling fan to part cooling fan, it is advised to run the latter at 100% whenever feasible, so that the board gets enough cooling, or rewire the electronics cooling fan to be permanently powered by power supply directly, which is how it should have been to begin with.
@@SianaGearz That is a good point and an easy experiment to see if it changes anything. I have a printed cover over my board cooling fan...like every ender3 has. I could take it off and see. As far as the motors running hot, they do not. The longest print I have done was like 26 hours and I made a point to check them during that time. I just downloaded the Creawesome Cura setup that someone mentioned below. I am printing now to test it out.
@@Moneypit330 If the motors are too cold it's also not ideal, a hint that you're not driving them as hard as they'll take it :D And i mean while you can make the axis smooth enough to get away with little drive current, driving the filament down the hot-end is just inevitably a very heavy job.
How did you know to scale it up 110%? Did you print initially and see it was too small? Some measurements don’t print to tolerance sometimes.