Creality Ender 3 V2 - Simple Tips for Super Clean 3D Prints

2024 ж. 17 Мам.
1 549 771 Рет қаралды

Are you struggling to get the right settings for your 3D prints? If you have stringing, blobs and other irregularities this video will show you the simplest methods along with a few other useful tips which can take your prints to the next level.
If you'd like to become a patron to help this channel grow and get involved with future video ideas, here is the link: / needitmakeit
Recently I've also discovered a feature within Cura which gives your printer the ability to print multiple parts at once all while keeping your prints looking great with no added time.
For reference, I like to keep my printer as close to stock as possible. I have had problems with the extruder side Bowden fitting and have replaced the tube and the fitting as well. That is covered in a separate video. I've also upgraded to stiffer bed springs to apply a little more pressure on the leveling knobs in hopes to not have to re-level the bed (so far so good).
As mentioned in the video, here are the important settings for each test:
Printed on glass build plate with dollar store glue stick
All prints with 0.6mm nozzle
I use this glass amzn.to/2KyLCjO after my original glass had a chunk removed
Test #1
Red PETG
Layer Height 0.16mm, Wall Lines 4, Bottom Layers 5, Top Layers 6, Pattern Zig Zag, Infill 35% Cubic, 225C Nozzle, 75C Bed, 78mm Infill, 37mm Outer Wall, 57mm Inner Wall, 55mm Top/Btm, 45mm Initial Layer, 4mm Retraction, Combing Off, Print All At Once, Cooling Fan 8%, Seams Manually Aligned
Test #2
Red PETG
Layer Height 0.16mm, Wall Lines 4, Bottom Layers 5, Top Layers 6, Pattern Zig Zag, Infill 35% Cubic, 225C Nozzle, 75C Bed, 78mm Infill, 37mm Outer Wall, 57mm Inner Wall, 55mm Top/Btm, 45mm Initial Layer, 4mm Retraction, Combing On, Print All At Once, Cooling Fan 100%, Seams Manually Aligned
Test #3
Red PETG
Layer Height 0.1mm, Wall Lines 4, Bottom Layers 5, Top Layers 6, Pattern Zig Zag, Infill 35% Cubic, 225C Nozzle, 75C Bed, 78mm Infill, 37mm Outer Wall, 57mm Inner Wall, 55mm Top/Btm, 45mm Initial Layer, 4mm Retraction, Combing On, Print All At Once, Cooling Fan 100%, Seams Random
Test #4
Red PETG
Layer Height 0.2mm, Wall Lines 4, Bottom Layers 5, Top Layers 6, Pattern Zig Zag, Infill 35% Cubic, 225C Nozzle, 75C Bed, 78mm Infill, 37mm Outer Wall, 57mm Inner Wall, 55mm Top/Btm, 45mm Initial Layer, 4mm Retraction, Combing On, Print All At Once, Cooling Fan 100%, Seams Random
Test #5
Black Carbon Fiber PETG
Layer Height 0.16mm, Wall Lines 4, Bottom Layers 5, Top Layers 6, Pattern Zig Zag, Infill 35% Cubic, 225C Nozzle, 75C Bed, 78mm Infill, 37mm Outer Wall, 57mm Inner Wall, 55mm Top/Btm, 45mm Initial Layer, 4mm Retraction, Combing On, Print All At Once, Cooling Fan 100%, Seams Manually Aligned
It can take up to 2 weeks and 40 hours to make a short video like this, If you would like to support the channel, these are affiliate links, I receive a small % of the sale.
NEW MIC (I bought this)
amzn.to/3vcMKAr - Rode Wireless ME mic (Saved me about 4+ hours/vid)
amzn.to/3NBFvZe - Mag clip (Super handy, but a little pricy)
BAMBU PRINTERS
shrsl.com/4aghz
CREALITY PRINTERS
shrsl.com/4aghy
CREALITY HYPER PLA
shrsl.com/4aghn
I mention Octoprint and Spaghetti detective in the video because it is one of the best additions to my 3D printer yet, I do not check on my prints anymore, if I want to see the progress, I just check the app. If you print any type of production volume I can definitely recommend this, if you only print a little bit, it is nice to have, but not a necessity.
If you are struggling with problems and you need help, send me an email or write in the comments.
#ender3
#3dprinting
#Problemsolving

Пікірлер
  • Simple models always print very clear.

    @hugoacherrera5998@hugoacherrera59983 жыл бұрын
    • I would agree that simple models will generally show better results The test samples shown in the video clearly show the differences in the techniques used.

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
    • @@bikerboy3k no need to make a rude comment, he is simply stating that it shows the difference each setting makes...... thats not defensive at all its simply stating the entire goal of the video.

      @samblissett5929@samblissett59293 жыл бұрын
    • @@bikerboy3k You are right, as stated in my response. Time to move on, have a good hoiday!

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
    • That is true, but this video is educational and if high quality. I have learn something.

      @kundeleczek1@kundeleczek1 Жыл бұрын
    • @@kundeleczek1 learned* 🙂

      @smol.miniatures@smol.miniatures Жыл бұрын
  • In the intro, he slipped that pre printed support in so fast and smooth I almost didn't even notice... well done sir.

    @user-kc2zq4sm2p@user-kc2zq4sm2p2 ай бұрын
    • I haven't used that trick in quite a while, but it's a pretty cool way to get a smooth bridge, especially if you have repeatable parts to make it worth the time to do. A little tape on top and some glue stick for good measure since the surface is only at room temp.

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt2 ай бұрын
  • Congrats on the layer consistency. A mixture of a very squarely assembled frame, tight belts, correct V-wheel pressure and many other things are required to achieve this.

    @Spartacusse@Spartacusse2 жыл бұрын
    • 👍

      @Pew-pew-is-fun@Pew-pew-is-fun10 ай бұрын
  • _"Print one part at a time"_ simple tips but how am I not realizing it. Thank you for mentioning this tips

    @tedhobby@tedhobby3 жыл бұрын
    • My pleasure, we'd all like to load up the build plate, in order to do that everything needs to be perfect to get great results. for the rest of us, these tips help a bit.

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
    • @@NeedItMakeIt Do you have a profile available for Cura?

      @oneheadlight8000@oneheadlight80003 жыл бұрын
    • @@oneheadlight8000 drive.google.com/file/d/1TO6z8dptLZOI2y_eBmG_m4exzY3lLtRi/view?usp=sharing Try this, it is set for PETG with minimal fan, you can adapt as needed.

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
    • @@NeedItMakeIt thank you! I print pretty much exclusively PETG.. around 120 spools of it last year. We just bought 3 ender 3 v2’s and are dialing them in. Your prints look noice!

      @oneheadlight8000@oneheadlight80003 жыл бұрын
    • @@oneheadlight8000 Nice stuff, three wow. Having a few of the same printer makes a lot of sense for replacement parts and repair, interchangeability and the list goes on. Very smart. Do you have to dry your material before you begin printing with it, how do you handle the moisture absorption, or is it a non-issue for your parts?

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
  • The print sequence option on Cura....VERY helpful. I tried it and am hooked. Have to plan out placement of parts to prevent the gantry from hitting it but otherwise, very helpful. Thanks very much for posting this. Made a huge difference!

    @markortiz1506@markortiz1506 Жыл бұрын
    • I've thought about other ways to improve this, printing with PLA and ABS seem to be very forgiving with stringing compared to PETG. I've just downloaded the newest version of CURA, super curious to see what is inside that could be helpful.

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt Жыл бұрын
  • I do this as well as adjusting the retraction speed and distance for the type of filament I am using. This allows me to print multiple prints without messy cleanup. The blobbing effect is what happens when the filament pools up in the nozzle the pressure causes it to push out as it leaves the part to go the next part. There is also the stringing effect people get. The combing setting and z hop will help eliminate this. I get very little if almost like slight spider web like whisp of string at the most now, nothing a swipe from my small butane torch doesn't eliminate in a poof, gone. Even a good heat gun would do the job. No blobs and all calibrations set. With all of that you can really dial in a printer to go above the bar of what they do out of the box. With a little tweaking that is. 😁👍 Good video!

    @JAY-fq7sb@JAY-fq7sb Жыл бұрын
  • The way how the light shines onto the prints make them better, too.

    @p.9608@p.9608 Жыл бұрын
  • My man, I thought I was crazy, or it was just my setup. I tried printing 6 parts I had customized, all came out crap, thought it was my settings and .8m nozzle. Just for a test did them on their own, and all came out beautiful. Thank you for the sanity check.

    @RM771000@RM7710008 ай бұрын
    • been there done that

      @shadbadrkhan7413@shadbadrkhan74133 ай бұрын
  • You mentioned that you coved combing in another video. Just a tip, always put a link to any video you reference in your description. It makes it soo much easier to find.

    @ewilliams112@ewilliams112 Жыл бұрын
  • I need to try those since I just got My Ender 3 V2 last week & I’m new to 3D printing in general.

    @Zedward84@Zedward842 жыл бұрын
  • Thank You for the detailed information and visual comparison test prints. Greatly appreciated ! Subscribed !

    @vitale6633@vitale66333 жыл бұрын
    • You're very welcome, more to come with better audio as well.

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
    • @@NeedItMakeIt Subbed too because i see the dedication and time used to make this video short (for us, viewers) and clear, but still very detailed. Only 2 things i've seen that were kinda wrong : the butter part, i'm new to 3D printing and it really confused me, but it got clearer by reading the comments about it and your answers(maybe put a caption or a small addition to the description about "don't do that, i just love butter"), and the binary @ 8:04, you wrote 00110101 and i believe you meant 0110 *0* 101 ("5" instead of "e")

      @morluche91@morluche912 жыл бұрын
  • I am popping in to say thank you for all your content. It is very helpful. Keep up the great work as it is inspiration for others like me. I’m late to the game as usual. I am about 4 days into 3D printing and love it so far. I’ve had my failures, but several success as well. I’ve got octopi going and my first time lapse after getting my camera mount printed. This first time lapse is an 11 hour build on the Ender 3 V2. I say all that to again let you know you have me interested in content creation and helping others as I learn. Hopefully I can provide others with a little help and inspiration as you have me. Thank you!

    @dc_sublime3205@dc_sublime32052 жыл бұрын
    • I also recommend the channel called Maker's Muse. Angus has a good deal of content to help you get started.

      @markortiz1506@markortiz1506 Жыл бұрын
  • If you want less visible random z-seams, you can also enable coasting, which turns of the filament feed while near the z-seam.

    @FredrikFridsten@FredrikFridsten Жыл бұрын
  • 2:50 No Name butter … hello fellow Canadian! 🇨🇦 😎

    @lebojay@lebojay11 ай бұрын
  • combing is gonna be a big help! Thanks

    @JEDSaje15@JEDSaje15 Жыл бұрын
  • Thanks for sharing the wealth! Much appreciated, will pass forward

    @3DCyberNinja@3DCyberNinja2 жыл бұрын
  • I almost lost it at the butter

    @GoofyPanda91@GoofyPanda913 жыл бұрын
    • I had to rewind and check that it was butter 😁

      @eagles3ye@eagles3ye3 жыл бұрын
    • Salted. On sale also!

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
    • @@NeedItMakeIt wtf

      @somatt@somatt3 жыл бұрын
    • I am a newbie and went out researching if that was something we need to do!

      @mrpbjnance@mrpbjnance3 жыл бұрын
    • @@mrpbjnance Oh sorry, I like to integrate butter into my videos. There may be a way to use it, if we separate the milk solids from the fats and apply just the solids they may work fairly well as a binder. Best just to use glue stick though. On the other hand the clarified butter can be very tasty and doesn't burn in the pan.... I also make cast iron pan test videos, and I love butter.

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
  • Thanks for the "Print Sequence" tip! I was on my way to make a python script just to create a single .gcode from individual parts .gcode files. Nice to learn that!

    @PilotoMAF@PilotoMAF3 жыл бұрын
    • I have a cheat for printing taller prints also, but it is a bit risky, I'll test it out a bit more before making a video. It involves lowering the hotend and choosing a volcano type hotend also which further drops the hotend down. But there is one more tip that can help but I think it is risky business.

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
  • Thanks so much for this video, ive had multiple issues with just one roll of red filament, turned on combing and one at a time and suddenly my prints are flawless, brilliant :)

    @markward7419@markward74193 жыл бұрын
    • No problem, lots more videos like this to come and some other really cool and unique ideas also. I was hoping that some of these tips could help!

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
    • How do you turn on combing? I'm using a ender 3v2 and creality slicer

      @davidhogue100@davidhogue100Ай бұрын
    • Hi David, Sorry I use Cura, but assume there is a setting in the Creality slicer somewhere @@davidhogue100

      @markward7419@markward7419Ай бұрын
  • I really appreciate your work on your videos ❤

    @nowhere683@nowhere6834 ай бұрын
  • Your prints are basically perfect!

    @accessdenied3474@accessdenied3474 Жыл бұрын
  • I noticed just turning down the nozzle temp helped a lot for me. As long as you have dry filament and your esteps are good you should be good. I use to print super hot right at 220 for PLA. 210-215 helped give me super smooth prints.

    @JLNatale@JLNatale Жыл бұрын
    • Oh wow, i think mine uses 190 for pla

      @shabadooshabadoo4918@shabadooshabadoo49183 ай бұрын
    • @@shabadooshabadoo4918yea I use 200 and 60 for bed

      @CreatorsExpress@CreatorsExpress2 ай бұрын
  • Just discovered your channel.. Very cool tips all around Tks.. Your print quality is very good overall.. Would you mind sharing your cura print profiles to take a general look (and maybe copy parts of it)?I use a standard .4 nozzle, but might move to .6 after you show your results.. (mostly focused on practical prints myself, not figurines and such) Also, always wondering what needs to change and what not as I switch between different materials (PETG, PLA, TPU, Nylon) and different layer heights.. Maybe an idea for a video..

    @et752@et7523 жыл бұрын
  • I had to give a like just because of the work you put in for the buttered build plate B-roll

    @Slovenec5@Slovenec53 жыл бұрын
    • Thank you! I would like to add more humor in my vids, but it seems people take them seriously...

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
  • Drying your filament will also help A LOT. Even with PLA! If you don't dry your PETG or PLA, it will usually ooze out of the nozzle, even when there's no pressure applied by the extruder. This leads to those blobs shown at 5:00. Keeping it dry (max. 10% humidity), there won't be any oozing.

    @uhu4677@uhu46772 жыл бұрын
    • Thank you for the information. Which brand of the dryer do you recommend?

      @peacefulandhappyzong@peacefulandhappyzong Жыл бұрын
    • @@uhu4677 I'm staking the gel I get from shoes and wherever I find some. I don't have any air-tight box so I'm just using zip bags and placing it on a dry place

      @TrueDetectivePikachu@TrueDetectivePikachu Жыл бұрын
    • this has been driving me crazy, thank you.

      @ricklorion@ricklorion Жыл бұрын
    • Great tip! I'm new to this world and I should have paid more attention to this to start with. Just got my dry box set up and lots of dessicant.

      @sjhallfluffy@sjhallfluffy Жыл бұрын
    • Wouldn't throwing them in a box with silica beads do the same thing?

      @sirseven3@sirseven38 ай бұрын
  • Print wall order and retraction/prime settings are another good place to look to for improving quality.

    @hrdcpy@hrdcpy Жыл бұрын
    • Can you explain further please if you have time!? Thanks!! I need some help lol

      @CreatorsExpress@CreatorsExpress2 ай бұрын
  • thankyou for this! ive been struggling and the comments are super useful aswel :D

    @shyaaroseee505@shyaaroseee5056 ай бұрын
    • Is there anything in particular you're having the most trouble with?

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt6 ай бұрын
  • I’ve had a lot of luck with scotch brand blue tape. You can print PETG on it with a 0 degree bed so it saves energy. Sticks really well and can be used several times before replacing it.

    @oneheadlight8000@oneheadlight80003 жыл бұрын
    • 0090000

      @demonchief1176@demonchief11763 жыл бұрын
    • *B U T T E R*

      @lolzdatguy4987@lolzdatguy49873 жыл бұрын
    • Petg can warp, a heated bed is not just for first layer adhesion. If it were, you'd only have to turn it off after the first layer.

      @alejandroperez5368@alejandroperez53683 жыл бұрын
    • @@alejandroperez5368 I’m saying on blue tape you can print with 0 degree bed with PETG all the way through. No need to turn on the bed if you have the right model.. some require 65 degrees with glue stick, hair spray or blue tape if the model doesn’t have a lot of surface contact. I have never used a brim with PETG in over 300,000 hours of printing

      @oneheadlight8000@oneheadlight80003 жыл бұрын
    • @@oneheadlight8000 you have 34 years of printing experience? LOL.

      @dualXdefiance@dualXdefiance3 жыл бұрын
  • Printing slower and not too hot always help me for improve the quality of my prints

    @hobbycollector@hobbycollector3 жыл бұрын
    • Very true, slower usually yields better results. Many of my prints are for customers and I don't always have time to wait so I've brainwashed myself to thinking everyone needs to print fast. I suppose that could make for a good comparison even for my own knowledge. How slow is too slow? I would assume at some point it will not produce a better quality.

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
    • ​@@NeedItMakeIt if the print have steep overhangs the slow speeds sometimes work against you. The heat of the nozzle dont let time to cooldown the overhang and make things worse. Sometimes i add a second part if what im printing is too small. Sorry for may bad english, is not my first language

      @hobbycollector@hobbycollector3 жыл бұрын
  • Just on time man thank you 👍 i stuggled with this stuff today

    @MrKingChannel1@MrKingChannel13 жыл бұрын
  • Great info! I've been printing for a few months and am definitely a noob. I'll be using some of these things

    @chrisbowpiloto@chrisbowpiloto3 жыл бұрын
    • I've been printing for a few years now and I still feel new somedays, there is a lot more to know than one might thing looking from the outside. Thank you for the comment and support!

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
  • I used to use Print One at a Time, but in a previous version of Cura, they changed how it determined the order to do the models (random selection of the models). After having just played with it, it appears they restored the previous ordering (last model loaded prints first). With the last in/first out ordering, you can arrange the models front to back and you don't have to worry about collisions. You can print any size model by tweaking your carriage settings. When doing multiple parts, I prefer One at a Time (POAT?) for the exact reasons you covered. Also, if you have a failure, you don't immediately lose an entire bed worth of prints.

    @noxin75@noxin753 жыл бұрын
    • Is there any way to import 2 or 3 stl and know their order? Or importing 1 at a time is needed? Cheers

      @theJoPanda@theJoPanda3 жыл бұрын
  • most important step to getting good results is buttering up your print plate 😳

    @DerTou@DerTou3 жыл бұрын
    • What adhesive do you use

      @sachinsaravanan3664@sachinsaravanan36643 жыл бұрын
    • @@sachinsaravanan3664 3DLAC

      @DerTou@DerTou3 жыл бұрын
    • "Nelly" works really good.

      @IberianCraftsman@IberianCraftsman3 жыл бұрын
    • I use Land o Lakes 😏 lol but really, I actually use a decent hair spray on my creality glass bed printing Petg. Works better for me then any adhesive marketed to the 3D printing world that I’ve tried, just a light layer and your golden for a while, then if you notice any issues, clean plate with alcohol then respray, I might have to do that once a month with moderate usage.

      @marv8481@marv84813 жыл бұрын
    • @@marv8481 Here in Spain we use the hairspray "Nelly". It is very good and it takes very little for the PLA or ABS to be sinked into the glass of the bed. No need to heat the bed at all. A bottle of lacquer Nelly costs about € 3 or about $ 4 and I can print several kg of filament with it since they are big. The same brand produces a lacquer for 3D printers, which is exactly the same formula, but without the smell of lacker, and costs 5 times more. So I advise you to use Nelly hair lacquer instead of another lacker or system, im pretty sure it can even be bought on Amazon. To remove the printed part in PLA or ABS from the glass, you can put the glass in the freezer 10 minutes also.

      @IberianCraftsman@IberianCraftsman3 жыл бұрын
  • Very nice video I have learned a lot thank you, I am new for 3D printing, I have a same 3D printer I am trying to design a small gear for my old SONY walkman it requires a very strong gear to handling a large torque from the motor, could you please provide the correct settings for the ENDER-3 printer? I am using PLA.

    @py8551@py85512 жыл бұрын
  • For very small parts it is often better to print multiple of them. There is a minimum time per layer or the print doesn't cool enough and pausing between (set your minimum layer time to around 10s) introduces blobs.

    @squidcaps4308@squidcaps43083 жыл бұрын
    • If only I had an hi-def IR camera, we'd really be able to dive into this more.

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
    • Or fix your cooling fans to actually work.....

      @adriansue8955@adriansue89552 жыл бұрын
  • Nice video, very informative.

    @rcrum89@rcrum893 жыл бұрын
  • Nice! I see you have a Ender 3 V2, what board you have on it and what firmware version you using? is a default hotend or Micro Swiss?

    @Ben-qh1ku@Ben-qh1ku2 жыл бұрын
  • Try printing outer walls first in the Cura settings. It depends on the geometry of the part but it can help (not for overhangs).

    @mururoa7024@mururoa70243 жыл бұрын
    • I will try that, thanks for the tip. Not for overhangs because it loses the added bond to plastic adjacent to it?

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
    • @@NeedItMakeIt Correct.

      @mururoa7024@mururoa70243 жыл бұрын
  • Hi! I'm always amazed and thankful for your tips and tricks. It really helps me as I have E3v2 also. Is it okay to ask for your printing profiles? Thanks!

    @Rdeveramd@Rdeveramd3 жыл бұрын
    • drive.google.com/file/d/1TO6z8dptLZOI2y_eBmG_m4exzY3lLtRi/view?usp=sharing Sure, I'm onto PETG printing now, here is the most recently profile, hope the link works.

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
    • @@NeedItMakeIt thanks mate! ^_^ really appreciate.

      @Rdeveramd@Rdeveramd3 жыл бұрын
  • Have you tried just using outer wall wipe distance instead of going through the trouble of printing one at a time and dealing with those limitations?

    @thanhavictus@thanhavictus2 жыл бұрын
  • Hi there great video thank you I just got Ender 7 unfortunately I can’t find UM3 steel nozzle You think I can print Nylon X Less than six small parts Or it’s definitely not recommend it

    @visualatoz@visualatoz2 жыл бұрын
  • Just starting out in 3D Printing. ( as of this comment 😁) Mostly to Try and get my 11 Year Old Son doing something else with his Tablet than playing games 🙄 He has Good skills for drawing, so I see, 3D Printing as the next level to developing his hobby to another level. Great to see so much information like this available here on KZhead. Of course Subscribed. Looking forward to learning how to speak another language 😉👍

    @weldmachine@weldmachine2 жыл бұрын
  • New here, subbed. What printer is this? Looking to get into this as a helpful hobby

    @williamwiese9963@williamwiese9963 Жыл бұрын
  • Brilliant, thank you, subscribed!

    @ShahriarFarkhan@ShahriarFarkhan2 жыл бұрын
  • That one with the last settings looks good. Myself I havent printed anything anymore. Still stuck with the bl touch. Last testing today.. After that I can only say the sensor itself came broke from start. The videos look better every upload. It shows the effort that has gone in em!

    @TriMeX1987@TriMeX19873 жыл бұрын
    • That's disappointing, I don't know whether I'll ever need the BL touch, I rarely level the bed with this printer. I did upgrade the springs because the stock ones were very weak and could promote the knobs from loosening though. Good luck! Thank you for the compliment, and yes it is a fair amount of work. My hope is that I get better at it so it doesn't take as long. I have a list for the next 10 of so videos, so I'll be busy for a while.

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
    • Rik, if you need a hand, I got mine working after some trouble. Your name makes me think that you're Dutch, so you could give me a call if it doesn't work out.

      @DHGV@DHGV3 жыл бұрын
    • @@DHGV klopt inderdaad, ik heb hem nu werkend. 123-3d .nl heeft mij geholpen via de mail. Er is schijnbaar een 4.2.2. Moederboard firmware waar duidelijk bij staat 4.2.2. Bl touch zonder adapter. Vanaf dat deze erop staat doet hij het goed (de bl touch) Maar vanaf dat ik de printer verplaatst heb en zo vaak op zijn kant maakt hij nu een vreemd geluid op de y as. En kwam er gister achter tijdens de excintric nuts onder het bed aandraaien dat als ik het bed van voor naar achter duw. En hier goed oplet voel ik een kleine verhoging in het bed achterin. Maar kan niets vinden bij de wieltjes of de rails. Twijfel om hem nu deels uit elkaar te halen en weer opnieuw te assembleren.

      @TriMeX1987@TriMeX19873 жыл бұрын
    • @@TriMeX1987 Mooi dat dat werkt. Wat je beschrijft op de Y-as herken ik niet, maar klinkt alsof een van de wieltjes niet helemaal gelijkmatig is afgesleten. Het kan ook zijn dat het te maken heeft met je Y-riem. Staat die te strak gespannen, of te los, zit hij goed op de geleiders? Is hij beschadigt? Dat kan er zeker voor zorgen dat je iets voelt in die beweging.

      @DHGV@DHGV3 жыл бұрын
    • @@DHGV de ender 3 is praktidch nieuw. Heb nog geen volledige rol filament geprint. Ik had op de z as wel wieltjes beschadigd. Voelde ik ook en direct nieuwe wieltjes erop gezet. Het lijkst als je de plaat helemaal naar achter duwd dat hij ergens overheen omhoog rijd..en net ervoor een dipje.. in dit dipje kon ik het bed ook licht bewegen. Daarna excentric nut weer beetje vaster gezet kijken of dat hielp. Maar voor alsnog niet. Hij maakt ook een raar geluid bij auto home op een lage snelheid hoor je het niet. Maar hier wel.

      @TriMeX1987@TriMeX19873 жыл бұрын
  • Thanks a lot for sharing the knowledge.

    @Enthcreations@Enthcreations3 жыл бұрын
    • My pleasure.

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
  • At 0:20 you drop a printed disc into a printing part. Was that done to provide support for layers to print on top in the printing part? Did you apply anything to the printed disc to prevent "welding"?

    @lxc3909@lxc39092 жыл бұрын
  • Thanks for the tips! New to the space, and I got carried away packing as many things onto my plate as I could. Heh. I wanted to throw an idea out there: I think the 'print one at a time' feature would work for taller pieces if you line the pieces up instead of distributing them. If done in the correct direction this eliminates risk of collision with crossbar and allow taller objects to be printed using this setting. (I have an Ender 3- other gantries setups might differ.)

    @sjhallfluffy@sjhallfluffy Жыл бұрын
    • One single object can pose the same challenges as multiple objects. Like for example the tips of a crown.

      @MarkAspen_@MarkAspen_5 ай бұрын
  • Hi, wanted to ask you how do you make that first line is printed on right side of the build plate? Thank you before hands

    @reinisbaumanis1126@reinisbaumanis1126 Жыл бұрын
  • I print one at a time, 90% of the time, great tips

    @tablatronix@tablatronix3 жыл бұрын
    • Good stuff! I mostly print for sale, it is important to have the nicest looking prints possible and this seems to be the best way I've found under the constraints. I'm still tuning the printer a little and I'm looking at whether belt tension, better pulleys and belts will also help. The stock belts look pretty good to my eye.

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
  • I get my best petg results using 255c on the nozzle and 25% fan and a flow rate 95% also slow down the retract and advance speeds 25mm/s this seems to help with blobbing somewhat. also make sure its printing perimeters FIRST then infill and not its default of infill first then perimeters.

    @nerys71@nerys713 жыл бұрын
    • Why perimeters before infill?

      @bc4ke@bc4ke3 жыл бұрын
    • @@bc4ke a couple of reasons first when the plastic hardens it doesn't exactly push out of the way so when you print infill first and then the perimeter the infield pushes the perimeter out where it intersects this is why you sometimes see the infield stick out on models people print Second the inflow intersects the perimeters and you want them to for strength it helps to build proper info when it touches the perimeter outside edge of the model but if you're printing a button fill first there's no Edge to attach to yet I can't think of a single good reason to print infill first

      @nerys71@nerys713 жыл бұрын
  • Awesome tips! Thanks!

    @neilfpv@neilfpv3 жыл бұрын
    • kzhead.info/sun/Ztihc7KMimKfZ6c/bejne.html

      @inna.rudenko8571@inna.rudenko85713 жыл бұрын
  • Would it be possible to add a bit of print to the area where the seams need to be so that you can sand them off and it will be smooth

    @jadenanderson2201@jadenanderson22012 жыл бұрын
  • Great video, thanks for posting. Question, how are you getting it to email you once the print is finished?

    @B0M0A0K@B0M0A0K2 жыл бұрын
    • He uses octoprint software on a raspberry pi 👍

      @craftgeekz2807@craftgeekz28072 жыл бұрын
  • Here's another tip I only started doing recently: If you use a newer build of Cura with a Creality printer (maybe others as well), your nozzle does a purge line on the corner of the bed. It's probably 10cm long. Adjust the start gcode so it's only 5cm - all it's doing is priming the nozzle. Now, since that's getting your nozzle primed, you don't need to print a skirt anymore around the perimeter of the print, so go ahead and set the build plate adhesion to "None" (assuming your prints typically stick to the bed reliably after printing skirts). This knocks a small amount of time and material use off of your prints, which adds up over time. This is especially important if you want to operate a 3D printing business, because lean is the name of the game for that.

    @NefariousElasticity@NefariousElasticity3 жыл бұрын
    • For sure, the main reason that I leave a brim or skirt on is to make sure the previous filament is purged out properly from the nozzle. It isn't too professional to have a mix on that first layer only to find out when the print is finished. Valid points though, thanks!

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
    • Skirts are necessary for first layer Z-offset calibration at the start of each print. Something you will most likely have to deal with on cheap 3D printers and considerably large prints.

      @alejandroperez5368@alejandroperez53683 жыл бұрын
    • That's too tiny to even care. And a skirt should always be used, no exceptions.

      @Ibian666@Ibian6662 жыл бұрын
    • @@Ibian666 why is a skirt so necessary?

      @haqeeqee@haqeeqee Жыл бұрын
    • @@haqeeqee Primes the flow.

      @Ibian666@Ibian666 Жыл бұрын
  • thanks for the tips and advice

    @juandavidruizserna@juandavidruizserna2 жыл бұрын
  • Thanks for sharing. Could you test PETG printing with tree support? Because I can get good result without support, but with support it’s a mess with lots of stringing. I print mechanic parts.

    @williamguan5962@williamguan59623 жыл бұрын
    • Hi, I can throw a test together, are you able to link a photo, or send a photo to needitmakeit@gmail.com

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
  • Great video, keep up the good work :)

    @jamesonneyman9714@jamesonneyman97143 жыл бұрын
    • Thank you so much, I appreciate that you took the time to leave a comment.

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
  • May I know what type of printing plate you use? I use the glass that comes with ender3 v2 and it doesn’t stick well

    @awalliskandar3289@awalliskandar3289 Жыл бұрын
  • i have a problem with my prints initial layer that sticks to the bed. i always have a hard time of taking that thin first layer off of my prints any advice?

    @Al-bt1pr@Al-bt1pr2 жыл бұрын
  • For prints with lots of surface details, like D&D minis, set the Outer Wall Inset to 0.05 and the layer height to 0.12. The small details will come out much better.

    @incogneato790@incogneato7903 ай бұрын
  • nice vid, how do you get rid of seams on round prints? Just starting out and hate to see that line running up one side, thanks

    @stevep2325@stevep23253 жыл бұрын
    • Turn on wall wipe, print with a small nozzle, and thinner layer lines, printing slow also helps with a bowden setup. I'm working on a video to review every possibility for the best solution with this printer.

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
  • Great video. I’m curious what do you think about convert your E3v2 to direct drive ? Found some projects on thinkgiverse and wondering if it’s worth time and will improve print quality or make more troubles.

    @filipdoniec7231@filipdoniec72313 жыл бұрын
    • I think it is considered by most to be an upgrade. There are quite a few benefits to the direct drive setup, I may also change down the line, I wanted to give Bowden everything I had. The only real downside of direct is print speed, with a sturdy frame like this printer has, it isn't going to be too terrible. I have also looked into the pancake steppers, which may be too light duty, but if they can do the task they'll help as well. One of the big benefits is to swap filaments in a matter of seconds, the Bowden makes it pretty tough. Personally that is the only thing I miss about my old printer. It can improve print quality in the sense that retractions and extrusions are handled better by direct drive, you'll likely have less stringing and blobs/surface defects. I hope that helped!

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
    • @@NeedItMakeIt man, it was really helpful. After your comment I will upgrade my printer this week.

      @filipdoniec7231@filipdoniec72313 жыл бұрын
    • @@filipdoniec7231 Let me know what you decide on, I may just go ahead and join you. I was also thinking that I'd setup one printer direct and leave this one as is for a comparison.

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
    • @@NeedItMakeIt i will use the old one extrusion motor with everything and just print needed part. i ordered longer cable for motor (old one may be long enough but it’s really cheap) and when arrive i would let you know if theres big diffrence. In PLA i have no problem but currently i’m struggling in print quality with PETG so direct drive may be the answer.

      @filipdoniec7231@filipdoniec72313 жыл бұрын
    • Can I assume that you are aware of Flex3Drive project? Another term used is remote direct extruder.

      @michaels3003@michaels30033 жыл бұрын
  • Hi, thanks for sharing. Which precautions can we take to avoid damage 3d printer while printing with carbon fiber?

    @leonelgarcia7327@leonelgarcia73272 жыл бұрын
    • usually it is better to use direct drive instead of bowden extruder and capricorn tubing - that causes less stress on gears. use stainless steel, tungsten coated or gem based nozzles for abrasive materials. even nickel coated nozzle can be damaged in the long run and will lose its features, so cheapest and long term proofed way is stainless steel nozzle (single material, so small surface damage will not reduce overall nozzle's material integrity).

      @tadasnanartonis9092@tadasnanartonis9092 Жыл бұрын
  • How do you get the prints off the glass. I can’t imagine using hair spray or anything my prints fuse to the glass where it takes so much scraping with a paint scraper that it ruins the print. I’ve tried alcohol, cooling the glass with water (risky for tempered glass). Heating it back up works but I tend to notice the bottom layer leaves some behind when I do that.

    @Mc.Nuggetz@Mc.Nuggetz Жыл бұрын
  • Great video again bro 👊

    @ComgrowOfficial@ComgrowOfficial2 жыл бұрын
  • Do you use the default alu bed that came with Ender? Also do you print PETG only or swap to PLA as well? If yes, how do you deal with bed warping due to different temp settings?

    @fazzah777@fazzah7773 жыл бұрын
    • Yes I do, the warpage is mitigated by using 4mm borosilicate glass. I find perfect first layers every print. I level with paper and only about 1 time per month if that. Anytime I move the printer it needs to be adjusted. I print ABS, PLA and PETG, no issues with the temp difference so far. Do you print on glass?

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
    • @@NeedItMakeIt yes i use the glass that came with V2 and if the alu bed warps, the bed follows. I shimmed it to near perfect using few strips of aluminum cooking foil

      @fazzah777@fazzah7773 жыл бұрын
  • New sub. Why do the program spots to start a new layer? Wouldn't it be better for it to keep going to the next layer in the same motion, especially since your going around in a circle? Like vase mode.

    @carbide1968@carbide19683 жыл бұрын
    • Glad to have you! I'd have to think very hard about this, but I believe it is not possible. At least not currently possible. In vase mode there is only 1 wall layer, a continuous motion upward is possible except for the bottom and top layers. When printing these normal parts the entire part must be filled in, the nozzle would travel up, then down, and so on until the entire layer(s) is complete. What you may be looking for is called non-planar 3D printing (true 3d printing). I'm sure in a few years we will have the ability to do this at home with some limitations.

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
    • Matthew, use the slicer's visualize feature and step through one layer at the time (i.e., super slowly) to see how the print progresses. This is a fantastic feature.

      @michaels3003@michaels30033 жыл бұрын
  • Hi. What kind of butter would you recommend for best layer adhesion? I've had some good results with unsalted Irish butter, but I'm wondering if there are any better options out there.

    @Lemon_Inspector@Lemon_Inspector Жыл бұрын
    • The fatter the better

      @SibaNL@SibaNL Жыл бұрын
  • Like the tip about forcing travels to occur at unseen sides. Thanks. And is that bed-mounted camera holder downloadable somewhere? What cam? The time lapses are great.

    @jalalabadass@jalalabadass3 жыл бұрын
    • For sure, it's something I use when I'm in a bind and I need to print a few larger parts but don't have the time to do them separately. The camera mount is in a video I made, the link should be there as well to the thingiverse file. kzhead.info/sun/dJl6k5GreWegfJE/bejne.html. I like this mount, it gives a really good angle for finding problems. Just make sure you have lots of light. The specs of my hardware should be in the video and description as well. Not very expensive and there are lots of benefits to viewing your prints from anywhere using Spaghetti detective with Octoprint.

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
    • @@NeedItMakeIt I think he should say thank you for this detailed answer :)

      @kezman82a@kezman82a3 жыл бұрын
    • @@kezman82a I have a new camera video coming out soon, keep an eye out for it, this one is pretty unique and a much better option for people wanting to keep an eye on their prints... in detail

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
  • ok, I was like bruh why you puttin butter on there

    @enslavedmoisture9844@enslavedmoisture98443 жыл бұрын
  • Sorry if I miss this into in your description or comments, are you using Direct Drive or Bowden setup? I’m struggling with PETG first layer on DD.

    @RudyAmid@RudyAmid2 жыл бұрын
    • I'm on a bowden setup, I'd suggest using a wee bit of glue stick, I always use it because I'd rather pop it in the freezer than have wonder whether there will be any bonding issues with the build plate. Can you describe your problem?

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt2 жыл бұрын
  • I am confused as to where to set these in Cura (4.11.0). The onlt settings I see with these labels are set in tenths of a mm. 78mm Infill, 37mm Outer Wall, 57mm Inner Wall, 55mm Top/Btm, 45mm Initial Layer Can you clarify?

    @agile4@agile42 жыл бұрын
  • is there any software for automatic positioning, giving you best reuslts?

    @saitamagr@saitamagr2 жыл бұрын
  • What do you set your initial print speed to? And do you have the fan for the first 2 layers or leave it off? I've read varying opinions on this. Thanks.

    @EDITMODE@EDITMODE Жыл бұрын
    • Initial is 15mm, and then inner wall 50, outer wall 32mm

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt Жыл бұрын
  • I know you probly wont respond because there is hundreds of comments, but maybe someone else can help me. I have this problem when the nozzle is getting heated the filament will come out of it before printing. but when its time to print none will not come until a couple seconds, I saw you make a line on the side of the plate, can you do that without having to manually do it? like if i wanted to print the dog that was already in the SD card.

    @flamingbox8891@flamingbox88912 жыл бұрын
  • 8:25 ... you can improve that blobbing. It is doing that because it writes a checkpoint to the SD Card it reads from in case of a power failure, so it can resume printing. If it can't write fast enough the buffer will run out and cause a split second delay and the extruder will keep extruding and leave a blob. Either A.) use a SD Card with faster transfer speed or B.) disable resume printing after power failure so it doesn't try to write the checkpoint file.

    @isthattrue1083@isthattrue1083 Жыл бұрын
  • Why do you use butter on your build plate? Do you find it helpful for adhesion?

    @MattKlosky@MattKlosky2 жыл бұрын
  • Sir may i know how much the speed percentage for ur printing time? Thank you

    @ARCELECTRONIC99@ARCELECTRONIC99 Жыл бұрын
  • Hey bud awesome video. I’m new in this world just ordered the V2. What program do I need to download to be able to make a solid print. I just want to know what I need to do to get started it’s coming in the mail tomorrow. I’m just going to be using the free downloads to start I just want to make sure I use the right one. Thanks for your help.

    @jamesp8039@jamesp80393 жыл бұрын
    • Would you be interested in doing a training session with me which would then become a video for anyone new?

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
    • Yea absolutely dude that would be awesome.

      @jamesp8039@jamesp80393 жыл бұрын
    • @@jamesp8039 Okay, we'll set something up, can email me at needitmakeit@gmail.com and we can coordinate further from there.

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
  • what print speed were you printing at in the final two tests?

    @lukeisanuke2551@lukeisanuke25512 жыл бұрын
  • PETG - part cooling fan or no fan. How to determine what's better?

    @canterburyfour@canterburyfour Жыл бұрын
  • Where is the comb setting? I see in the video its under travel, but for me its not there. We both have the ender 3 v2, but cura doesn't have the v2 model yet, so I just edited the ender 3. Did you select the ender 3 pro?

    @nickcellini9253@nickcellini92533 жыл бұрын
    • You will need to activate it first, go to setting visibility and type comb, it should show up. I did pick the ender 3 pro, both should work fine for a starting point.

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
  • Dumb question: do you apply the butter after or before heat the bed?

    @jchacon_88@jchacon_882 жыл бұрын
  • Very nice quality videos, good job!

    @dekstaaa@dekstaaa3 жыл бұрын
  • Could you do vase mode to eliminate the seams altogether?

    @glenncol@glenncol Жыл бұрын
  • Great tip.... Any experience with metal infused pla?

    @bitrage.@bitrage.3 жыл бұрын
    • No but I do with CF PETG and I'm not too much of a fan at the moment, it wears the nozzle and gears super quick. I've ordered a set of hardened dual gears to handle it along with a hardened steel nozzle, so I'll be giving it another go soon. It looks great and it is more stiff so there are some pros. What are the benefits of the metal infused filament?

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
  • yeah my prints do a weird bumpy at the bottom sometimes. only in spiralize surface mode though

    @olivecool@olivecool3 жыл бұрын
  • Bro, those print qualities are cleaner than my room!

    @zac2877@zac28774 ай бұрын
    • Not too bad for a printer of that generation. I'm seeing even better results these days with the faster printers, especially with PETG. The fast moves help to prevent blobbing quite well.

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt4 ай бұрын
    • @@NeedItMakeIt oh that's cool, so the fastness, the speed itself actually helps prevent a few problems

      @zac2877@zac28774 ай бұрын
    • @@zac2877 The travel speed was one of the biggest issues, with the newer printers, acceleration and travel are much faster, fast enough that I don't notice blobbing unless the parts are set quite far apart from each other. It's a nice little bonus that I wasn't expecting. It's mostly a problem with PETG, but does happen with PLA as well, just not as much.

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt4 ай бұрын
  • hi is possible have the all parameter but for PLA ? Congrats u make best 3d ! love it

    @brkgamingcommunity579@brkgamingcommunity5792 жыл бұрын
  • 2:43 why turn combing off, If printing one at a time? Tha k you for this!!

    @stickboyfpv4742@stickboyfpv4742 Жыл бұрын
  • Fuzzy option in cura hides the layers and you can make prints look very professional

    @deathcube2006@deathcube20062 жыл бұрын
  • I noticed you were using petg filament would you recommend to use this material for cookie cutters? I was recommended this from some library class I took on 3d printers but haven’t heard anyone using this filament I often here just pla.

    @noemid3123@noemid31232 жыл бұрын
    • Also I’m fairly new to this 3d print world and I’m binging on your videos. I’m wondering if you may have settings you would recommend for the slicing program. I’m so intimidated buy the printer and don’t really know what settings I should have. I bought the ended 3 pro but still haven’t made one print 😐

      @noemid3123@noemid31232 жыл бұрын
    • PETG would be fine to use, it is highly resistant to abrasion and is somewhat flexible unlike most PLAs. Some PETGs are also noted as food grade, it is a little misleading because the material is made in a food-grade manner, however the final result isn't because it contains so many small voids for food particles to embed themselves. I don't see a problem as long as the food is being cooked.

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt2 жыл бұрын
    • Let me know which material you're going to try and I'll dig up a profile you can use. It is certainly a lot to know in order to start. Once you have a few under your belt, it will be a piece of cake.

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt2 жыл бұрын
  • What are you using for a removable base plate? I've just started and every thing stick too well to the steel base plate of the printer.

    @mp40jager@mp40jager3 жыл бұрын
    • My printer came with glass, but it was damaged fairly early on and it looks terrible. I've switched to Borosilicate glass (old pyrex) and it has been working very well. If you don't already use glue stick, try using that on the metal before you start the print, just make sure to apply before you start to heat. If it is steel, I suppose it will rust when cleaning, so just be quick to wash and dry if you try this method.

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
    • kzhead.info/sun/Ztihc7KMimKfZ6c/bejne.html

      @inna.rudenko8571@inna.rudenko85713 жыл бұрын
  • I substituted my usual hairspray for "I can't believe its not butter" and couldn't get the filament to stick. is there a certain type of butter I need to get? Thank you sir! New subscriber...

    @dagdernit572@dagdernit5723 жыл бұрын
    • Look for the butter with the highest butter content, 100% butter is best. If you can find 110%...even butter :)

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
    • Gotta get the one that used to be racist.

      @bleckybob@bleckybob3 жыл бұрын
  • Thx for the interesting video. Just one sidenote: IME PETG prints just fine without (or with very little) cooling. With some filament brands cooling might even introduce all kinds of problems like layer separation, etc. I always tone down my cooling whenever I deal with PETG to maybe 1/3 of what I would use with PLA.

    @theinternal@theinternal3 жыл бұрын
    • Thank you, 1 more coming up real soon, this one is pretty cool IMHO. I agree, I always try to print with the cooling as low as possible most of my work is load bearing and I'd like to be confident that the layers have adhered well. I will be doing some testing in future for this specifically across many different types of filaments at different amounts of cooling that will take some time to get setup for. Thanks for the comment!

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
    • @@NeedItMakeIt You're welcome! Keep up the good work!

      @theinternal@theinternal3 жыл бұрын
    • @@NeedItMakeIt btw: congratulations for reaching 10K subscribers!

      @theinternal@theinternal3 жыл бұрын
    • @@theinternal Hey thanks a lot, I can't believe how quickly things went from 1000 to 10,000.

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
    • @@NeedItMakeIt if you keep up the good work, you'll get to 100K in no time. Usually it's harder to get from 1K to 10K than from 10K to 100K. Mind my words and thank me later... ;)

      @theinternal@theinternal3 жыл бұрын
  • Cool video, may I ask which plugin I see starting 4:01?

    @alexanderdehoff6500@alexanderdehoff65003 жыл бұрын
    • This is Spaghetti detective with Octoprint Raspberry Pi, pretty handy if you have prints which have potential to go wrong. Most of my prints are simple and I use glue stick to make sure they don't come away from the Build Plate. Spaghetti detective also allows you to watch your prints from anywhere on your phone that's a really nice feature.

      @NeedItMakeIt@NeedItMakeIt3 жыл бұрын
    • @@NeedItMakeIt Thanks mate!

      @alexanderdehoff6500@alexanderdehoff65003 жыл бұрын
  • A video on how to get that soft seam on circular objects would be awesome. I’m troubleshooting on mine but still it dips in too much. would really appreciate some help. (using MS DD and all metal hotend)

    @fabianfenner3067@fabianfenner30673 жыл бұрын
    • enable retraction in your slicer settings (retraction in cura, maybe called something else in your software of choice). It pulls the filament back from the nozzle and generally does a really nice job of eliminating blobs and other defects where the nozzle stops for a second before changing direction. I have mine set to 7mm retraction length and my surface finish is usually near perfect. Unless I do what I did an hour ago and let my printer run out of filament. Whoops.

      @markcoats960@markcoats9603 жыл бұрын
    • @@markcoats960 nah, he's talking about circular objects. There's no way to hide it there

      @alejandroperez5368@alejandroperez53683 жыл бұрын
  • "0.04 z axis resolution so you should print with 0.08, 0.12, 0.16 layer height": the 4 should be able to be d be divided with the layer height?(nozzle divided by layer height?),

    @roeddrive413@roeddrive4132 жыл бұрын
  • I’m new to printing but what about printing multiple items sitting on supports elevated on the surface. 20mm parts sitting at height 0, 21, 32, 43 so one at a time gets printed

    @SmithFarmandOutdoors@SmithFarmandOutdoors2 жыл бұрын
KZhead