UPGRADE your Creality Ender 3 V3 KE with Linear Rails
The Ender 3 V3 KE desperately needed this upgrade!
Help support this channel! / needitmakeit
This is the 3rd video now on this printer, but in this video we come up with a working solution for the bed vibration issues we were having which produced print quality problems. Not all Ender 3 printers seemed to have this issue, but with the small rods and a little bit of time and wear this will become a problem on all printers and I thought it was a good idea to be prepared with a good solid solution that was easy to do for just about anyone.
**SPECIAL NOTE: This has only been tested on my printer, if your printer looks different or things don't fit as you expect, leave a comment and I'll work with you.
Hardware You'll need:
M3 x 12mm (4pcs) - For Front Adapter & Y Axis motor
M4 x 20mm (4pcs) - For Rear rail to base adapter
M3 x 8mm (16pcs) - For Plate Adapters to Carriages
M3 x 8mm (12pcs) - For Rails to Front/Rear Adapters
M3 x 4mm Heat-Set Brass (20pcs) - For All Adapter Plates
US Amazon Link for Linear Rails: (This link supports the channel)
amzn.to/4a5YP9w - You'll need 2 'C' Carriages per rail (4 carriages total)
Linear rail carriages can be purchased separately if you can't find the entire kit - Model # MGN12C-350mm
Aliexpress Link for Linear Rails: (This link supports the channel) - They don't have stock of the 350, you can buy 400 and cut it to size, hopefully stock comes back soon!
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DDt... - You'll need 2 'C' Carriages per rail (4 carriages total)
Linear rail carriages can be purchased separately if you can't find the entire kit - Model # MGN12C-350mm
Printed Parts:
makerworld.com/en/models/2392...
www.printables.com/model/7979...
Bambu Display Model by Henlor - Nice Model! makerworld.com/en/models/2228...
Another way to support this channel indirectly is through my affiliate links (where I receive a small commission). It helps me to continue to provide high-quality content videos. Thank you for your support!
NEW MIC (I bought this)
amzn.to/3vcMKAr - Rode Wireless ME mic (Saved me about 4+ hours/vid)
amzn.to/3NBFvZe - Mag clip (Super handy, but a little pricy)
BAMBU PRINTERS
shrsl.com/4aghz
CREALITY PRINTERS
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CREALITY HYPER PLA
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#crealityEnder3
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Very very impressive modeling and problem solving! Your linear rail upgrade is phenomenal. Nice work!
My KE is still on the way in, but I'll definitely revisit this! Good job! 👍
OMG! Was I the only one waiting for this video to drop??? I was scared cuz there were no tutorial videos... haha now I'm sorta confident about doing this upgrade lmao! Thank you! YOU'RE MY HERO!
I've got definite X axis wobble on mine with variation across both sides on multiple prints, printing off the set right now, good modelling and thanks for the help.
The KE is my first FDM printer, and your KE videos are how I found your channel. I’m really enjoying your work, thanks for the great content!
Hopefully the rods and linear bearings on your printer fit better than mine did. I'll have a few more videos for upgrading this printer coming out as well so that we can get a fast printer with excellent results and keep the price down. There are a few challenges to overcome, but that's what makes it interesting!
@@NeedItMakeIt I just ordered one yesterday as an upgrade to my really old ender 3 and I'm super glad I found your videos as well! Your review of it was very good!
@@kslayer0 Nice! I have quite a few upgrades/mods coming for this printer.
@@NeedItMakeIt How well do you think those will work out of aluminum? I have a roll of polycast I've been itching to play with more and try casting some actual useful parts! but my modeling/cad skills aren't all that refined!
@@kslayer0 I've like to see that! I've been getting ramped up to cast some parts as well, but my capabilities are pretty small. I think the plate would work amazingly from alum, I can send you the updated STL if you'd like to try it out. I am just about to re-print a more refined version. You are referring to the piece which I made from Polycarbonate correct?
Great mod!!! I found your channel due to purchasing this printer and trying to figure out how to fix the few issues I’ve found so far. I have loved this series
Thanks, my hope was that this would allow anyone to do the upgrade themselves. The hardest part is the screws into the power supply, but as long as you're using the 20mm long, you'll be good. The parts align themselves and follow the video and you'll be good. I'll have some more videos coming out on this printer, there are a few more mods worth doing to get to a better faster printer at minimal cost. I hope you continue to follow along as we go!
@@NeedItMakeIt I absolutely will continue following your channel as I learn and subbed. I’m a total beginner in the 3d printing world but understand CAD and mechanics so this is just the series I needed. I knew I wanted a “capable” printer but didn’t want to break the bank to obtain one. I also didn’t want to buy the cheapest possible thing I could find. After 100’s of hours researching I didn’t go in with a budget, but didn’t want to spend more than needed at this point with the understanding there would be some issues. If I enjoy it, and can be productive making blanks and test pieces for my side business I will gladly invest into upgrading the printer itself to something more high end in the future.
Thank you so much. I have ordered everything I need and will be doing this upgrade in the near future! Thanks again for your great effort and help to the community ❤
I have another one you'll love coming tomorrow morning, enjoy!
Looking forward to trying this mod! Thanks so much!
You hit the spot every time , love your approach and straight to the point problem solving. thanks a lot👍👍👍
Thank you! It's a great challenge to do these projects, there's always lots to learn, I would have preferred to have a few more mounting holes and flatter surfaces, but that's what raised the difficulty on me.... Maybe I levelled up my design skills?
For the algorithm!!! ✊You've done some incredible design for this upgrade, always looking forward to what you come up with! 👏 Cheers from vaccation in Bali 😁
THANK YOU! And thanks for the model, I'll be printing some of these from TPU to go with the Nerf battles. I wish the upgrade with a little nicer looking, but function has to be first. I should have added some honeycombing to it, that would have done the job.
Never owned a 3d printer before, but finding ways to upgrade my already budget friendly product is amazing to see. God bless the nerds
I'm working hard to raise my nerd level, I think I'm sitting somewhere around 55, I need to learn more programming and electronics :)
wao, i am planing on getting a KE, this video blew my mind.. now i wan to do that too.. wao, excellent.. congratulations man.
Many more to come, I have several upgrades in the works at the moment coming to a website near you!
@@NeedItMakeIt man, this printer is new, no many people still have it, what you did is incredible, if i am you, i make at least 25 lineal rails converision kit and sell them.. 100% sure they wont last long... and with that video tutorial, you have a good oportunity in your hands..
Great content, really helps with figuring out all the nuance of this printer. I can attest that the biggest improvement so far was ditching the PEI plate that came with it. Something defective about the surface, wettability is far too low. Switched to 1/16” thick garolite and all my first layer adhesion issues vanished.
might do this to my ender 3 v3 SE In the future since the bottom portion of the printer is the exact same as the Ke good video
This made me sub. Great mod and i like that you made an improvement on the current rail mods available. Looks great. Pity the rail sets here are so dam expensive. Greetings from South Africa
Thanks! It was a lot of work to get to this point, but it turned out well, we just need to work on the extruder and we're going to be in good shape. I was able to get my rails on sale at Aliexpress, but when I went back to look they were out of stock... Amazon.com seems to have them for the cheapest at the moment, but maybe there is another source. Mine weren't the best, the stock Creality one on the X axis was smoother and quieter, and looks better frankly with the black.
Hi, for me some recent videos are too specific so I've skipped them, but I'm sure people having this model of ender will love them. I'm giving thumbs up and comment for ranges anyway ;)
I have some coming out which are much more broad, I tend to get onto a subject and have to just keep going at it until we get to some conclusion and when I keep finding problems... it's bad news. Thanks for your comment, I appreciate that feedback and I should have a few videos in the next weeks that would apply to a much larger audience.
Keep going with the bedslingers!
I think I have about 3 more videos coming up just for this printer alone.
I looove this upgrade! Exactly how I would have done it, but I literally couldn't have done it better myself. 😂 It even just looks like a much more solid and stable design. You'll have this printer near perfect by the time you're done. 😜
Very nice upgrade, thank you.
You're welcome, I hope it helps a few people, hopefully anyone that wants to do this upgrade can find the rails at a good price, mine were cheap, but they weren't the best quality, so I can't really tell people to go that route. They are working nicely after a few prints and I'll keep them oiled and we should be good for a long time.
I use linear rails in KE. They are beautiful!
Nice, where did you buy yours?
Out of curiosity, why not just add an additional set of bearing blocks to the original rods?
Just subscribed. I love the quality and high level of details and precision you put on your videos. May I ask what technique you used for scanning the base ?
Hello, my KE had 8 mm dots and there was no need to modify it, just strengthen it as you mentioned earlier. It's worse with the construction, which was at a wrong angle. I solved it by sanding the bottom of each side to a right angle
Brilliant design.
Thank you!
Printing at the front left corner is when the belts are at their shortest relative to the x, y stepper motors. Any angle made by the belt mounting points to the extruder carriage and the bed support will skew the print as well as any vibration or imperfections from the geared tooth drive or stepper motor.
great upgrade.... congrats...
Still going strong, I just need to figure out this extrusion issue. I really need to re-design the extruder.
6:56 Ouch. Kudos for leaving it in.
I know! I was really lucky that I had carpet in that spot, most of my shop is concrete. Note to self, remove the rails before trying to do that the next time... Bozo came to down for sure on that one.
Great upgrade, this is a excellent way to support a moving bed, well done. The PC bed support should work fine too, but I'm not sure if the reduced weight is significant.
Thanks! I think it could have been even better if I had used ABS or PC for the parts, but I didn't have enough of that in-house since I mainly print with PETG. The weight reduction amounted to just under 400g, but we added a small amount more friction with the linear rails, they are running nice and smooth now, at first they were a little bit stiff, especially one side. I'm working on a PC bed that anyone can do as long as there is enough interest, I also want to learn a bit more about the factors involved, expansion of the aluminum heat bed above it etc.
@@NeedItMakeItI'm interested. I have a KE and recently installed silicone spacers to get the bed more level. Mostly I had already sanded the originals, then realized that the gantry was leaning back a couple degrees. After correcting that, the plastic spacers were way off so I replaced them. But I have noticed on mine and many others that the bed seems to be cupped, with the middle fairly flat but the corners warped upward.
I noticed this also, the bed is bowed up I checked it with a straight edge. For now I put 3 strips of painters tape in the middle and it is almost perfect. @@waggy401
Speed is limited by acceleration, and these are limited by flow. I value high consistant flow over speed because i mostly print functional parts. Squareness and tramming of X and Y axis is one of the most important things, and thats where the budget printers usually fail. I just got my CR-10 SE, the squareness of the X-axis is hard to measure because the frame is covered in plastic. The print bed was 1,3mm off, and when i tried to fix this the bed screw got stripped cause they used screws that were not up to spec. This is just me scratching the surface of the printer, who knows what else is there to find. The "QC pass-sticker" on the side is a sad joke, however its the hars reality. I admire your efforts with trying to get the printer usable, hats off to you good sir!
Excellent work Mike on going above and beyond to do the work that, IMO, the Creality engineers should be doing prior to product release. It seems to me that the Creality production model needs to change, especially in the face of its competition nowadays that aren't cutting corners nearly as much. Sure, Creality's printers are cheap, but as another commenter points out, to actually get them to a point where they print as well as a competing product that costs a little more, you end up spending way more than that competing product. IMO, the marketplace is changing. More and more people are expecting something that isn't cutting corners straight out of the box. Creality needs to decide if it wants to be a maker of well designed printers for a low cost, or continue to product straight up bargain bin items that don't work as well as the competition out of the box.
Thanks Stew! All of this seems so strange, from the extruder to the rails to the steel plate, what was going on? Was this a noob design? It reminds me of when I was working on our bit CNCs at work a few years ago, we had custom bits breaking constantly, they caused 2 fires as well, when I looked at the design, it was horrific, I worked on a new design with a different company, and we used traditional methods of router bit design, and guess what. Not only did the problem go away, we had better cuts, longer lasting cutters ... and not by a small margin, by a huge margin. No more fire hazard. When something is well designed, it's a beautiful thing. I think Creality can rise to the occasion, they just need to say goodbye to what worked for them a few years ago, maybe it's not so easy. I'd love to see a modular printer design, give me a printer that is build-to-mod, I want threaded holes everywhere! Whatever Creality comes out with next had better blow our socks off, they need to innovate and do things differently. Take everything that people want and find a way to get it into a printer with a ground up design. I always appreciate your insights!
I have my V3 KE sitting in my car, and I’m pondering if I should go with this.
Good job, the way it should be by default
Cool upgrade, i use the ldo rails on my ender 3 they are alot better than the cheap Amazon ones, travel speed seems to affect most creality bed slingers Great video
LDO, I'll have a look, I don't use to many linear rails, but I think there are quite a few projects coming up that will require them so I'll need a better source, thanks for that! I just had a look, can you purchase direct? I can't find any side for LDO, only resellers.
@@NeedItMakeIt i got mine from onetwo3d not sure if you can get them direct
So, no chopping of the printer base... nice. As you redesigned the base plate, it reminded me of something regarding bed warping. I noticed that the bed is perfectly flat when not tightened to the base plate, after mounting and leveling it gets warped a little, and situation gets worse after heating it. Obviously the problem originates from tensions and thermal expansion. So maybe instead of mounting bed directly to the base plate via screws, it would be better to put 4 mounting points on 4 mini linear rails oriented diagonally? They should be tight enough to avoid any slack, and they would keep the bed tension-free (i.e. flat), even when it grows because of thermal expansion. Or maybe I'm talking nonsense, and warping occurs anyway, because the heater PCB expands differently than the bed it is glued to...
I have been researching rails for my Zyltech Gear. Thanks for posting. That's a very clean design and install.
Thanks, I tried to come up with something that was as simple as possible and easy to print, it's not bad, I would have loved to have a few more mounting holes, but I don't like to modify the stock printer by drilling holes into it and that's more work for everyone as well. Hopefully it gives people a few ideas to tackle their printers as well!
Printing a holder for the filament roll seems to help too, so there isn't this weight at the top amplifying the movement
Great design. Curious if this adds much mass to the bed and the impact it would have on acceleration.
Thanks, Said I will watch it.
I have to say that although I have a bed slinger at the moment (it was given to me by a friend) I'm not remotely interested in getting another. I will (and have) make some upgrades to this one but when I replace it it will be with a core x-y. Regardless of any input shaping you will always have the variable of the weight of the print itself increasing as well as the height which will cause inaccurate calibration as the print develops as well as oscillation as it gets higher.
Support this mans makerworld models so that he gets points for a P1S or X1C. That way he doesn't need to upgrade and troubleshoot his printers 😅
This looks great, I want this on my printer,, is the SE the same as the KE printer?
this is awesome.
Thank you! I hope it helps a bit with getting this printer to the next level.
Great work indeed, looks very impressive! It took just a day since release to empty stocks of required rails on Ali )) But it looks kind of step backwards in terms of reliabilty. Did you consider to apply double rods (as in K1 series)? Don't get me wrong, it's not a critics, I'm really excited with your creativity. as for polycarbonade plate instead of steel, I think it is unpredictable, but I can assume it will cause another resonant frequencies so... I'm always curious how you will manage it )))
Outstanding Work ...Congratulations 👏... Sincere Thanks for Sharing with us .. I intend to buy this printer and looking for some Onnest Reviews I found yours ... If I can get the Money I will buy it ... Thank You again and God Bless You 🤝
The petg problems may be due to lack of dimensional accuracy of the filament. I have had the exact problem and that was the cause.
Great work! But I've got one question: Will the strain gauge still work after this mod?
Just ordered this yesterday and now I watched your series. Do you think this problem can be mostly solved by printing slow? I don’t need fast prints
I also found my Y-axis bearings to be sloppy. I've adjusted them as much as I can, using the play in the mounting screw holes, but I never imagined being able to swap them for linear rails. This is a brilliantly engineered upgrade which is also entirely reversable if needed. I bought my V3 KE after having many impressive prints off the Ender 3's we have at work and I must say I've largely been disappointed with the print quality I'm seeing from it. The wobbling of the gantry bothers me so I plan on tacking that at some point.
Unfortunately it just isn't suitable for a printer with these kinds of speeds, the steel plate, the central bearings. It's all good, we'll get it where it needs to be, the next video is going to be pretty cool and I will have something coming out for the Z as well, but first we need to do something pretty cool in order to get something we can work with a little bit easier. Sorry for being cryptic, the video will be release this weekend coming, it should be cool!
@NeedItMakeIt no worries, I completely get it. I'll be watching with great interest when the next video drops. One thing I wondered about the Y-axis rail mod, is there a physical stop for the bed towards the front of the machine now?
For me it qould be very interesting, if the PC bed works and if it delivers any advantages.
Great video! Does the rail upgrade work with the Ender 3 V3 SE also?
great video Great upgrade Are you not dubling the price for the printer? Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😀
I was able to get these linear rails for less than 40$ CAN, that's the entire kit, I luckily had the screws and inserts already, unfortunately I didn't have much of a choice but to fix it. New rods may not have solved the problem and I figured other people would want this if not now, sometime down the road.
Tremendous work! Please go ahead and test the printed carriage, i am really curious to see how that holds up. Also please consider garbing an Ender 3 V3 SE and work your magic on it, i have the SE and i feel that a lot more folks got the SE, as it is quite a bit more accessible in the price department, but it has its own set of flaws. Thank you !
Cool I will, it would work in combo with this upgrade, but I need to add a little more clearance because the PC or maybe ABS plate would need to be thicker, too bad we didn't think of this earlier. I may also try an aluminum version at 4mm thick which should be around 1/3 of the steel plate and it should be stiff enough as well. I'd like to see if I can have a company CNC machine it so it has everything integrated into one. I'll have to check out the SE, it looks similar to the KE - the Klipper and a different setup for the extruder/head.
@@NeedItMakeIt Stellar!
@@nitustefan1998 I have a few projects in the pipeline that I need to finish up but I'll get back to this and we'll get something really good going.
@@NeedItMakeIt I am looking forward to see what you have mapped out, thank you for your work!
@@nitustefan1998 Sounds good! I have a few videos to get through but I'll come back with something that looks good, works well and is easy to install and print yourself. Well... that's the plan anyway, whether I can deliver on that, I sure hope so.
I feel like it would have been a lot less work to modify the linear rod setup, possibly putting in another set of berings (like you did with the rails), and maybe even just replacing the ones that were there with ones that weren't so loose (if you couldn't adjust the ones that were there of course.. seems kind of strange to not be able to 🤔 ). This is definitely a very robust alternative though, and I do agree that it's a bit ridiculous to make something try to move so much mass around so quickly.. but then again, any of the printers are kind of limited by the ability of the material to liquefy and solidify in terms of speed, so why the printers are the only things getting the speed focus is kind of beyond me 🤷🏿♀️
I see that the newer Ender 3 V3 (Metal frame) has larger dia. rods, and I would assume that it's to avoid this problem. My printer being new and already having the be vibrating needed a solution. I covered in the prev. video that the correct size of rods with a pre-load would be fine for this printer. I just figured it be better to have an option for long-term and there is one linear rail option out there but it uses only centrally mounted carriages, so we're back to the teeter totter effect. If they went with rods and somehow were able to run them out further, we could have bearing blocks spaced out further as well and it would be more stable, but they've crammed it all in there to look good I suppose.
@@NeedItMakeIt Definitely seems like a bit of a short-sighted design decision to make it like they did... but I suppose they were trying to iterate on previous designs whilst not making them vastly different.. kind of unfortunate that it leaves so much potential for issues like this though, especially when it could have so easily been avoided..well, back to the ol' drawing board 🤷🏿♀️
@@TS_Mind_Swept Maybe it was one of those... "hey you, new guy, we need you to design a printer.. "type of situations.
@@NeedItMakeIt Well I wouldn't go so far as to say that.. a lot of the designs are fairly decent on it, but clearly not everything..
@@NeedItMakeIt Thinking about it some more, if it was a new guy, it probably would look a lot different than it does since the current design is so similar to the previous; might not necessarily be better, but newer people tend to look at things differently than people that have been doing the same thing for a while
What's the model that you used for the test print? The XYZ corner thing. Anyway, I've been watching your KE stuff and it's definitely very solid man, I've been 3d printing for... a month? (also learning CAD to help me design parts to help around the home) and I'm super excited to see what you do next with this printer!
Who the heck uses regular hex allen keys these days (5:06)? :) - just teasing... really enjoying your videos lately... I really appreciate your videography and presentation. HQ for sure.
Thanks!
I wonder if this upgrade would be compatible with my 3 V3 SE (where I live the price difference was substantial haha), I am quite content with how it performs for now and it is enough for my needs but man, these rails look sleek and nice. I need to give it a thought.
I I have a same wobbling problem on the right side lineer bearings to. When i press my finger on the right side of bed it goes up and down. But this is my first printer and im not trusting myself to make a huge changes on machine. Maybe one day people start to sell offical upgrade kits for lineer rail upgrade i will buy it but not now.
If it's a new printer, I'd suggest you contact Creality and ask for replacement parts, hopefully a new set will fit better. Let me know if that works!
@@NeedItMakeIt its been almost a month. i contact my seller multiple times and he said he is gonna call me back but never did. i can feel a gap in bearing but surprisingly there is not huge errors in my parts and nearly perfect. so i just let it go. btw thanks for the advice i will definitlty contact with creality directly to.
@@alpercagangunes Let me know if there is anyway that I can help. I think you should be able to submit a short video to Creality showing the problem along with a short blurb. As far as where the problems are coming from, for me it seems to be that the extruder cannot handle PETG well, I still can't explain it completely, but maybe this is partly the issues you're running into.
It's a nice modification.👍👍🙂 But instead of the lm8uu that comes with it, you could convert it to the sc8uu version with metal fixing bracket. It could have been a more affordable and more faithful modification to the original.
Thanks, and sure there are lots of different ways to go, I wanted to get something closer to the ultimate for rigidity, I had a look for hardened rods which were tapped in one end, and the issue always came up with precision. For guaranteed precise rods, I'd be paying $70 for just the rods, and then I'd need to cut them to the custom length. Being in Canada, everything is expensive, this is probably a better option for someone in the US. Open to any and all ideas! Thanks for taking the time.
I have some Y axis location bias when setting the probe to nozzle z offset. Basically the offset is different at the front of the bed and the rear of the bed. I read that it could be from a twisted Y rod and a linear rail would help. Could you do the "Location Bias Check" from the Klipper docs please? Doing it just at the middle back and middle rear is enough. The difference should be lower than 0.025mm.
I would love seeing your data report on the use of the poly carbonate plate. Great video btw, I've been back and forth on doing this upgrade for a long time. Your revision makes more sense. I never liked how close together the rails were. Spreading them apart makes much more sense. Thanks for all you do for the 3D printing community! I clicked on your two links for the rails. But they didn't come up as the black ones. Am I missing something? Lastly, what model is it that I purchase? And how do you go about cutting them down to 350mm? Thanks again! PS. Do you have an extra spot in your discord group? I would love to listen in to learn. How can I join if you do? Sorry, very new to Discord.
Hi! I think the PC could work well, I will see about making some tweaks to it and see if I can bring this to everyone to try themselves. If not from PC, maybe ABS as an alternative, not everyone has PC, but I'll try to make it so it's printable on any printer (may require at least a towel or two draped over your bed slinger). It seems a lot of people are interesting in the PC option, I will purchase the accelerometer for the printer and then we can get some measurements as well as compare the before and after, the Y axis vibrations are not so great and I wasn't running the printer at full speed, so we can do better. I will also look into an aluminum plate option, alum will cost more, but it should be stiffer and thinner as well. I say that other option for linear rails and I think they did a good job, but I was looking for something a little bit better that would last longer and keep that be as stable as possible no matter where we print the parts. I couldn't find any black rails at a good price unfortunately.... I looked for quite a while but I only saw one set which was far more expensive, so maybe we could use bluing instead? I think they may be stainless I'm not sure the bluing would work well. Yes please join our discord! I have a link on my Patreon page near the top that should work, but if it doesn't let me know. We have a great team on our discord of very talented people and it really to have a crew of people that havev a problem solving mindset.
Thanks for the reply! I found these rail at Amazon. It appears black already. And the description indicates it will accept bluing. What do you think of these? or should I just go with the ones you have selected? Lastly, do I need both M3 amd M4 brass inserts? I know I can go back and review the video. Thanks for taking the time to answer all these questions. PS. I became a pateron ASA member.
@@dpoulson I don't think it allows links here, but you can send a note on Patreon. Only M3 heat sets are needed on this job, the 4mm screws will go into the power supply. I saw that thank you so much!
PC plate might be too flexible (esp. in Z direction) to work well, but let's see it tested :) Does Klipper have Z or weight compensation for IS frequency (Marlin FTM does, for the record)? Or maybe IS for Y should use wider shaper to cover the range from empty plate to full plate / high Z ? Overall, KE sounds like a good printer, until it's not. Likewise K1 sounds like a good printer, but VFA. K1C fixed that, but changed to different harder-to-get nozzle. If you have K1, how about a mod for smaller pulleys etc. to bring VFA on par with K1C? Maybe shorter stepper motors are not required 🤔 Bedslingers are perfect for slow big prints (plus and max variants) and moderate speed (still a lot faster than what we were used to in 2022 - thanks to Klipper and Marlin IS!) small prints. Core-XY seems to be the only way to go for impatient people with a bit more loose money or high requirements for print quality 😅
It's certainly more flexible, I'd like to look at an aluminum version, and in each case I'd need to buy the accelerometer add-on to allow the resonance to be measured correctly. Right now it uses Klipper with hard-coded values and I could be wrong, but it should be measuring before for input shaping, but also while the print is occurring to adapt while the mass on the buildplate changes. They've made a cheap starter printer, but it's not as easily upgradable as the older gen with the extrusions, this would have been such an easy project if I didn't need to try and fit these parts to something that has such a strange shape. The newer metal frame Ender 3 V3 has a nice flat solid base, but it seems that they've replaced the small rods with larger 10mm, and maybe they'll be a better fit to avoid these issues. Having moved mainly to CoreXY myself, I see a pretty big benefit, mainly the enclosed print, but also that I can design and print something the same day, I can also take an order and ship it out the same day, which is pretty nice for everyone. It is a bit of an instant gratification, wait until the replicators come out.... I like your idea about the VFAs for the K1, there are probably a lot of people that could use an upgrade like this. Creality should provide one!
I'm gonna try this with some new pair of Hiwin MGN12H I have, before I'll move on from the stock frame to build a more sturdy one. Ill report back in a few days when the parts are printed!
Oh, those are nicceeee! Well yours will definitely ride smoother than mine did then. I have another upgrade coming in about a week, actually I have several, which will be for the Z stabilization and for the PC bed plate below the Alum heat bed. I'll try to see if printing the plate in ABS is an option, not everyone has PC to print with. Thanks for getting back when you do!
@@NeedItMakeIt I just realised you are using the MGN12C small carriages. Do you have a model for the plate adapter that has spacing for MGN12H? Looking forward to seeing your other improvements.
@@hetisbbq Ah, yes of course, well if you like you can send over the specs and I can make a modification to the design for you. I can probably get to it sometime tomorrow.
@@NeedItMakeIt That would be great! Your design for the MGN12C uses 15mm spacing between the center of the mounting holes, the correct spacing for MGN12H would be 20mm. Additionally it's obviously longer too, 34.7mm vs 45.4mm, so there might be some clearance issues in the maximum positions, where it will stick out 5.35mm more on each side.
By the way, is your discord still active? Because the link is not working at the moment!
Would you be able to print the needed parts? I'd like to do the upgrade but I'm still very new to 3d printing. Have not tried anything but pla and I'd prefer something like this from an experienced person like you.
Could you recommend a few specific PETG / CF-PETG filaments you think would work for the models required for this? Sadly Prusament is not an option in my country.
dude. We need this for the OG Ender 3. It will take more work
The original is better in a lot of ways. I still think that bed slingers are going to go bye-bye with the far faster and better print quality of the CoreXYs. The competition is getting intense now.
Which of the components in the rods & linear rod bearings are not to spec? i.e. undersized rods or oversized bearings? Because I have four 8mm rod bearings not in use and a few meters of 8mm hard chromed rod that could be used for the purpose. What about me just building in more bearing carriers to go on the existing round rods?
Hi, newbie here. Would metal washers work in place of the printed shims? Definitely a great video, will add rails as soon as they arrive.
Hi, and yes they will work as long as you can get a washer that's the right thickness, I had trouble finding any that were thin enough for the amount that my bed was out by.
@@NeedItMakeIt Got it, gotta be picky with the thickness. Time to bust out the calipers. Thanks for the reply!
@@MurrayBill At one time I had paper shims, they also worked fine for getting very precise adjustments, positioned below the standoffs.
I'm trying to figure out about printing the parts needed in PETG-CF as you have. Did you do this on the KE? If so, what slicer and settings? I'm having a problem finding settings on printing PETG-CF in general that don't cause underextrusion
Hello, I finally received the linear rails from ali. Do you think it would be better to put them directly on the base plate via the created 3 mounting points for each (middle screw on the middle metal sheet). They should sufficiently strengthen the entire mounting plate. This would prevent any twisting. They would hold the bed firmly and perpendicular to the Z uprights. The thermal expansion of the mounting plate should then not have such an effect.
If you can I think that's a great idea, I would have wanted to do this, I only avoided it to provide people with the simplest solution possible. Your idea is better I think. I guess my only small concern is that the base isn't flat and may pull the rails down to the position it would like them to be in.
I'm interested to know if these new rails are quieter than stock ones.
i would imagine making the Z more stable would be more important, but cool mod.
i think its the actual bed with the heating element is attached too. i swear they fold them in half and send it out. Even with glass im still finding issues with level prints.
LOL, yup the bed will warp, apparently this is in part due to the rapid heating of the aluminum and also that it is pinned in 4 places, this restricts the expansion and causes it to bulge until it has enough time to uniformly heat and settle down a bit. I'd suggest a thicker bed, but we don't want to be adding weight to the Y travel. One solution that I have is to introduce a soak time, to each of the Creality printers, and it seems to help quite a bit. If you need the info of how to do it, I have a video already on it called "Let it Soak" there is a printer in a bathtub on the Thumbnail if you're interested.
Nicely done.
Thank you! It worked out great, I'm pretty happy with how solid they are, and it doesn't look too bad, I wish they had the black rails though, that would have really looked smart. I'll continue to work on the other upgrades to bring this printer to the next level.
@NeedItMakeIt I am new to 3d printing and although everybody says go with a Bambu I don’t have that kind of money. The KE seemed like a good entry level that allowed some tinkering for learning and some upgrading later if I wanted as well. Thank you to you and you team (discord team) for all the work done. This is really helping me make my decision.
@@Suhlirvideos The Bambu printers are very well designed, no doubt about that, they also use new tech to calibrate the filament, which helps even more to get good results and saves a lot of time, but you're right for entry level, you can start cheaper and upgrade and then when you're ready in a year or whenever you can sell that printer and upgrade again, there is a lot of development in 3D printing, by that time there will be a lot more options.
Do you think warping would be a potential issue with the heated bed?
What if I told you that the bold pattern on these do not at all match the carriers I ordered from your amazon link?
so here is my uneducated take on these printers, i have a ke and in the terms of is it moving to fast for nice clean prints? yeah most likely. what i use my ke for though is for larger projects like helmets or armor pieces that i will be painting or adding things like damage scars. I think the KE stock or even with your upgrades is solid for doing just that. but if you want full on detail then you really need to just slow down the speed. its like that age old saying, you can have it done fast or you can have it done right.
Hi, the models you have provided are exact size of the printer holes. Do i need to zoom it to cover for example ABS shrink after print. Look forvard for reply, chanel and models you have provided are great!
Hi, good question! With ABS, you'd probably see about 0.25mm contraction over that distance, it's a good idea to account for it if you'd like a perfect fit. There is also some clearance in the holes, but if you want a bit more, you can use a 3.5mm bit and ream them a bit as well. I've found that that PETG-CF works great for these, they're quite stiff, but ABS would work really well also. I have more models coming so thanks for your note, I'll consider whether I need to account for that in future models.
SUBBED!
Thanks! Do you have a KE? I have more videos coming out on the subject, lots in the pipeline but there will be at least 2 more videos to continue to do some cool upgrades
Hello! thanks for the work done, I'm going to install this mod on v3 se. I would like to ask if it is possible to install a table with only 2 carriages? placing them in the mounts diagonally (one at the bottom and one at the top).
Hi, and thanks for writing a comment! Apparently the SE requires a small change to the rear adapter, I have something in the words for this as well. It may be possible to use only 2 carriages, I considered using only two like you say and it might work, but I've never tested it, and I'm not sure how good it would work. I'd suggest buying the cheap ones from Aliexpress just to be safe and have them on-hand. It's a good idea though, nice thinking!
Instead of steel plate, perhaps aluminum? Thanks for the info (upgrade).
I'm not 100% certain why they went with steel, my first guess is that it was to try and resolve the flex issues they were having with the centrally mounted linear bearing approach. It could also be to try and make the parts as similar to the SE as possible, the metal is stamped slightly differently than the SE but overall it is the same shape. I think with the linear rail mod here an aluminum plate or a Carbon fiber plate would both work really well....yesterday I tried to see if I could order a Carbon fiber plate from Send Cut Send, but it wasn't accepting my file... but that's one that I would like to see. I have the polycarbonate plate on there and it's working well, but I think the CF or Aluminum would be better and overall stiffer.
@@NeedItMakeIt if possible consider doing both, aluminum and CF? Compare the difference. It looks like you got some more content for you channel. On a side note, I do not own a 3D printer. Just looking around to see what fits my hobby (RC rock crawler trucks). Not really looking to be upgrading and taking it apart. What do you suggest for a newbie, like me. Although I prefer a printer that self levels (calibrate). Thanks for the video and info..
can you make a video of the mainsale process or access to your printer.. i am newby...i have the printer, love it, but is true, web interface is too limited, and the cratlity print as well... thankis.. do you have the kit for sale ?
I have one already for the K1, the process is pretty well the same for this printer. It's called Quick Root your K1, have a look at that one and then let me know if it's easy enough to follow. I don't really sell these kits because I don't have any extra time to do anything but do research and make videos, the idea was that you could do this on your printer when you get up and running. I'm sure there are some people closer that could help you out.
I think it would be better to keep the original aluminum plate rather than 3D print one. The weight difference would be moderate, but i don't think this would make a difference on max accelerations. I tried it on my ender 3 V2 that is not even an ender 3, and I have got zero benefits rather than have a tiny more wobble. Note : I love your videos and how active you are, keep it up !
Hey! If it were aluminum, I'd definitely keep it, but they made it from steel and it comes in at about 500Grams and when I added the prints to it we had about 600g. When I swapped it out, we were at 139g, which is a pretty good savings, you can certainly feel it when you move it around with the belt taken off. Thanks! I have 1-2 videos every week, some take longer than others, I need to get better at this so I can get more out there.
@@NeedItMakeIt Dang that's heavy ! Yeah well 3D Printing a carriage seems to be a good idea then.
@@itsazuura yeah, I don't know who made that call, and it was bowl shaped as well, I've no idea if that was on purpose either, the parts mating to it weren't bowl shaped, I can't see that working out well. I hope that this option gives people an alternative that lasts the test of time and helps to get their prints to the next level.
@@NeedItMakeIt500g is crazy! Can't wait to see what you come up with.
@@802Garage Core XYZ bed slinger next, I just need to figure out how to cross the belts over each other!
Would it be more beneficial to print everything in pa12cf?
Hi. Had to use longer M4*20 for Y-axis positioning as the original one didn't touch the trigger when rolling the hotbed. Now it collides with the front adapter, blocking the hotbed movement and messing up print coordinates during the print pause / color change. How to overcome it?
Do you think this would work on the SE??
I guess. I was under the assumption that. the inner 3V3 V threes. were about the same machine. I bought the parts for this upgrade. and printed. all the kparts. Just found out this, Apparently the SE requires a small change to the rear adapter, I have something in the works for this as well. I'm wondering if you could. update the part for Ender. 3V 3 SE Or a work around for this problem. Thanks. for your great videos, I. do enjoy them..
Hey, I'm working on a solution for that right now, the problem of course is that I don't have an SE, and it's hard to find the info to tell what exactly needs to change. I have an email from a fellow who had made a change to the LH plate adapter, but that's not what I was expecting and I am awaiting a response. I'll let you know when I get the info!
Cool!!!
Do I have to use carbon fiber PLA to make that part you mentioned in the beginning? or PetG? I haven't really tried those yet. Can I use regular PLA or I do need the carbon fiber for it to work?
You can probably get away with regular PLA at least to start. The only problem is that it will soften when heated, and if you plan to enclose your printer it could warp. I'd recommend PETG-CF or ABS as final solutions if possible. PETG is also doable, but you'd want to make the parts nearly solid because it likes to flex a lot more than ABS.
Is it possible to modify hotends of this printer to print like and carbon fibre filaments. I want to print nylon parts on budget so I looked at ender v3 ke/se but couldnt find any mods and I dont want to buy older ender 3 which has a lot's of variety in terms of mods but older firmware do you have any suggestion? Btw brillant explanation in every step of the process.
Hi, it is possible, the nozzles for this printer can be swapped for ones with hardened steel tips, but printing higher temp materials with success will require an extruder with hardened steel gears and it'll also need an enclosure. I have a video coming out next week on Wednesday on that subject if you can wait until then to decide.
@@NeedItMakeIt I am definately going to wait thanks for update.
@@ParshvaPatel-ib9lm No problem, and let me know when it does come out if it helped to make a decision.
Hard to keep up with all the new models, I thought this upgrade might make it equivalent to the CR10 SE but it has a different extruder. So obviously the extruder on the KE is not meant to be their best. I was interested in the Ender 3 V3 CoreXZ but at the price it makes no sense when I can get the Flashforge 5M cheaper. By the way you cannot buy extruders for the KE or CR10 SE.
That PC plate will be wonky, I'm afraid. Do you know of some good quality alternatives for Creality's builds plates Type B, textured, for Ender/K1/K1C ?
I replaced the carrier plate with a cf plate, 2.5mm i think. It's both, light and stiff
Where to buy?
Just had a stock rail go bad on my Ender 3 V3 SE and looking to do this upgrade. Unfortunately, I cannot seem to find "C" blocks. Any chance of modifying it to fit "H" blocks? Those are easily available.
In regard to that 3d printed bed, would it be good to use a carbon fiber sheet and have it cut to reduce the weight of the steel plate? I have a CNC router so I can actually machine it.
I think that's a great idea, I haven't machined CF material myself, however I understand that the dust is quite dangerous to breathe. I have an upgrade coming which will allow you to do this while also using the linear rails, it will provide the clearance required. I'm not sure if you want to do that upgrade or not, but the option will be available. I've love to see the results of that when you do it!
Do you have a link to the XYZ file you are printing, please? Thank you.
Is it possible for u to adjust the model for the mgn12h?
I Noticed this on my Creality E3 V3 SE. The base appears to be the same as the KE your showing, can you confirm this as its an Upgrade id love to do :)
hello, out this video the one of most interest to me are the spacers, question, how safe it is to make spacers out of pla+?
Hey, so anything close to the bed should be printed with higher temperature materials, PETG is a bit higher than PLA+ I believe, but it could be worth a try, that area below the bed is separated by a fair distance and it might not have much heat build-up. If you're printing in an enclosure, that's a different story. If you're talking about the adapter plates that mount to the Body of the printer itself, I think you'd be good with PLA+, they're far enough away and shouldn't have much heat buildup there. I hope that helps.
@@NeedItMakeIt I see, thank you
So did it solve the lines on Z? Or the tightening on the extruder fix it?
It hasn't completely fixed it, it seems to be an issue with PETG mainly, the gears of the extruder or the extruder itself may be to blame, and I'm working towards an upgrade, but this is no small task, so I'm chipping away at it and I'll release it as soon as I have something that's proven to work. In the meantime I have some mods and upgrades coming for the printer as well.