m54 to m50 manifold swap (what I did differently)
Wanted to share the rout I went to swap an m50 manifold on to an m54
Also wanted to note that I ran in to the injectors randomly popping out of the rail, I remedied this by taking the plastic spacers found on a set of m50 injectors and filing them down until they fit between the body of the injector and the o ring without squishing the o ring between the spacer and the end cap, if that makes sense.
m54 to m50 adapter plate www.ebay.com/itm/274737399339
Bosch 12 hole injectors www.ebay.com/itm/323887048996
EV1 to EV6 injector plug adapter Injector adapters a.co/d/hq7mGQC
3.5-3" reducing elbow www.ebay.com/itm/115305665104
3.5" straight coupler www.ebay.com/itm/115308840676
5/16 barb to 5/16 Bundy fuel adapter www.ebay.com/itm/201769836986
liquid filled fuel pressure gauge www.ebay.com/itm/124342166808
fuel rail regulator bypass www.ebay.com/itm/192956765185
Well done! I agree that the m50 fuel rail is the way to go. I used m52b28 injectors. Work well for me, although I have an m52tub28.
I used s70 turbo volvo injectors pink ones and it's the straight ones, I have m54b30 with m56 valve cover and m50 intake mani. S70 injectors are plug and play. But I also ported my head to match the runners. No tune, runs perfect
Those are the exact injectors I ran here in this video they flow a bit more than stock injectors. I ended up going with Ford focus 2.0 injectors part number 0280156162 they flow .2lbs an hour more than stock injectors. So it’s more reasonable for long term fuel trims to compensate for without actually tuning. I could tell my fuel mileage was down and the mpg gauge read that I was getting more mpg than I was which was a sure sign that it was putting in more fuel than it thought it was
@@BEAMERNOOB Ya the way I made up for it was porting and polishing my head to match the m50 mani ports, runs way better that way
That's pretty cool man. Unfortunately, the visual inspection for smog will quickly see the silicon elbow and fail it base on that alone... if in California. If you were to find a corregated elbow, somehow, I think, by just looking at it, you'd pass the visual.
keeping the fuel rail cover looks way less jank than the way most people have done it.
@HJK R i just blocked off the return port on the rail and fitted a fuel pressure gauge so the return is still at the filter/fpr on the frame. i felt like a vacuum cap would degrade and pop off and was a potential fire hazard.
Very clean the way you utilized the air box, how is the drive-ability? Cold starts?. Did you lose any low end torque? I didn’t have much luck with my m50 intake manifold so I reverted back to m54 manifold. Did you completely delete the icv too?
Completely deleted icv yes. If I notice most a loss of torque if I’m taking off as slow as possible for a manual and then hammer the throttle. I was getting cold start issues from the first set of injectors I used due to them leaking and then I found out later my fpr was also leaking and bleeding off pressure.
Drivability is just fine too. I actually raced a 4th gen TL up a grade last night and to my surprise actually pulled away from him. Should also note that I swapped my differentials out and went from 3.07 to 3.46 so I picked up some torque again and overall it scoots.
@@BEAMERNOOB I like your method more then the usual one. I too did the m50 manifold swap, but it was on m52tub28, dual vanos but 2.8L engine. Overall I was more happy with a sound it produced then performance. Is there any chance you did some sort of data log before the swap, so you could compare it to? Or is there any chance you will go dyno it? Now that I have m54b30, I am thinking again about the upgrade... However, most power I had dynoed with m52tub28 engine, was actually with m54b25 intake manifold. 208hp with a tune, compared to 204hp dyno with m50 intake manifold. However, ive had handmade exhaust manifold which was flowing really well, but it was short, with m54 manifold, and longer tube headers with m50 manifold. Overall i wasnt impressed with m50 manifold, thats why i ask of you if you could provide us some dyno or log numbers, such as maf readings of full throttle in 4th gear say.
@@TomoReso I think the m54b30 is on the cusp of being able to pump enough air to even see any kind of benefit from the m50 manifold. The smaller engines just don’t flow quite enough air to see a benefit. Even still I think if I had zhp cams or aftermarket which would help raise the power band up higher and take more advantage of where the m50 manifold flows best. Also I theorize that if you don’t port match the heads at a minimum the large flat edge from the larger intake port crashing in to the head creates a lot of turbulence and thus creates a restriction. I also theorize that the small port adapter I’m using technically makes the runners slightly longer. Longer runners generally work better for low and mid range compared to short runners which work better for top end power.
@@BEAMERNOOB i believe you are right. Also I did port match the head towards intake runners. It just isnt worth it for a standard engine. Perhaps as you said if there were more aggressive cams on b30, it would make more difference.
What kind of clamp did you use for the fuel rail regulator bypass?
the stock clamp that clamps the stock fpr
Did you connect your idle control valve to the silicone hose pipe, If yes how did you do it
I tuned out the idle control valve but it could be done with the aic still just make sure it’s plumbed pre maf and that’s all you need to do
M54b30 mani is quite good. M50 is Minus work in this case
How exactly did you did the ccv? I still have my icv, can it be done with that on still?
i did an e36 cyclone can and gromet/seal and put it in the hole that would normally go to the icv. im using the electronic throttle body and changes in the tune which can be found for the m54b30 on ms4x.net to control engine idle and deleted the icv. i made a support/mount using some bolts and nuts with hardware store brackets. i had to use heater hose and cut the ends of the stock main pcv hose that runs from the valve cover down to the cyclone can and made a "custom" pcv line
It could In theory still be done with one of the kits for m52 to run the m50 manifold but I don’t like the way they position the cans at an angle and not up and down
Will the n54 intake manifold studs extended work I'm using the adapter from Hyde Wanna make sure
yes
motor i have M52tub28 yesl i supply injectors from jeep grand cherokee 4.0 will not rich mixture and black smokes
Hello! Is that a idle air control valve from m54 on m50 manifold?
i deleted the idle air control valve and used electronic throttle body to meter the air to idle the engine.
i just got me a bmw for a steal i need to swap the motor or rebuild i guess my question is if this is just really for looks or is is it a better flowing intake
it flows better at high rpms
I have an interruption on the first accelerator, if I put injectors from the jeep grand Cherokee 4.0 it will normally gain momentum
What is the part number?
@@BEAMERNOOB help
Excuse me can you send me the web page with explain use the m54 body on the m50 intake. Tks
www.ecstuning.com/b-seems-legit-garage-parts/m50-manifold-adapter-plate-kit/m50p~slg/?msclkid=2cb927586e3215cba163449bfc70abc8&Srch.Shopping.BMW&Shopping.BMW.Catch_All
Was there power difference
Can you still pass smog?
I probably could get it to pass visually as is, but I think they plug your car in to the obd and read the tune and if it doesn't match stock or an aftermarket carb compliant tune it wont pass. even tho the only real difference i have in my tune is i deleted the idle control valve and disa valve, and have values added for the electric throttle body to meter the air to idle the engine. none of which affects emissions in any way it would probably be a no. I also still have cats and secondary air pump on it, so the only thing i need to do to smog is swap the stock intake back on it with the disa valve and idle control valve and flash the stock tune back on and it will be good to go. this is the reason i used that intake adapter instead of porting my head because porting the head is permanent and wouldn't be able to get the stock intake to seal. i would say tho if i got pulled over and were forced to pop my hood there isnt much they can really say unless the cop happens to know exactly what he is looking at.
@@BEAMERNOOB Right on man, I forgot about the new tuning restrictions in CA. I’ve seen some people run these swaps with out a tune, but deleting the disa leaves a CEL, so still won’t pass a smog regardless. Do you think doing the swap is worth it? Considering having to swap all the stuff back that you deleted to pass smog, or maybe just pay extra for a hot smog? I’ve done almost all the suspension upgrades possible, got nothing really left to mod at this point lol
@@dreww_e46 there are definitely pros and cons to it. It does help out with a bit of extra power to pass on the freeway for example where I spend most of my time driving it. But it doesn’t get out of the hole quite as fast unless i really launch it hard. It does launch decently as it’s an awd and I’ve also swapped in 3.46 gears over the factory 3.07’s so it counter acts the loss in low end torque. it’s not a huge deal for me to swap intakes back and fourth for smog. And it’s only every 2 years. The most apparent difference I notice aside from right off of idle torque being less is that the last 500 Rpms (6500-7000) it doesn’t feel like the power band hits a brick wall past 6500. I still want to get it tuned. But I recently did the oil pan gasket and discovered a lot of slack in my oil chain, I welded the nut but I know that I’m risking sheering the oil pump shaft. So now I’ve been looking for a zhp engine or a great deal on zhp cams and a healthy replacement engine to freshen up with new gaskets and add the s54 tensioners and new chains on. To swap in so I’m not down too long without being able to drive it.
@@BEAMERNOOB I don't have a tune on mine. I used turbo s70 volvo injectors and ported my head and it runs and drives perfect, no problems, runs better than ever
check valve 4 bar
Ecu program tuning?
www.ms4x.net
Ecu program stock
Yes
@@BEAMERNOOB fuel bar 4 4,5
Fuel injektor jeep grand Cherokee 4.0
If youre using this car as a daily driver and want it to be as efficient as possible then why are you increasing the air flow causing the ECU to increase the fuel flow? Youre going to lose low end power which it seems youre looking for if youre not revving the nuts off of it. The M50 manifold hits at 4000 rpm through the rest of the range. BMW designed your engine to be as efficient as possible and now youve changed the ratio which will not only require a tune via romraider to get working optimally but will also use more fuel no matter what. What you have done is essentially waste time and money and ruined the efficiency. M50 manifolds are for drifters and time runners and also useful with turbos. And yes I am a mechanic and yes a BMW one.
So what then do I do to my M54b22 to make it faster ?
@phawupowerhousesakwe7897 fit shorter final drive, extend redline by 250rpm, fit 17 inch wheels and you will be looking at performance increase similar to M54B25. The 2.2 is the most rev happy of the M54 engines, they are usually putting out more hp than stated too.
You can do cam work and remap the ECU. But if you want more speed without affecting economy you may want to redesign the entire engine. That's a joke btw. I think you misunderstand the concept of how fuel economy and power don't go hand in hand with the same design and the same fuel. Sure you can run a higher octane fuel, do some cam work...take as much weight off the vehicle as possible.... But you can't create power without a change in economy.
@@phawupowerhousesakwe7897 do you mean faster at higher or lower revs, do you mean torque ? In my honest opinion. For real power just turbo all of these BMW b motors. Theyre great motors with a turbo and a tune. Don't expect the real hit without it.
@@phawupowerhousesakwe7897You but m50 manifold in it and make it slower. Most ecu tune on sale from big companies i have seen to b22 are shit what you do is learn to tune ecu or buy some tune from well know community member who works for these like chaoscalibrations etc. The b22 ignition map is really watered (whole bin is not much optimised) you thats where you can pick up some, vanos maps are made for emission controll cause they drop out externall egr valve so it shows, or buy super chrager kit, dont buy oversize wheels go whit light ones. Cams are allready bretty good sized for these engines dont chance the cam if you dont know how to make ecu corrections to match whit current cam m54 ecu controll is more comblex than just measuring ammount of intake air. Stop watching tubers to do power upgrades to heir cars when they dont dyno or measure the chances cause often time they make it worse than stock was. B22/25 intake manifold have dual lenght/resonator box that helps whit high and low power, you lose all that whit going back to older design intake, so maybe go for b30 that needs rescaling of ecu as well or keep it as it is and start milking horses out of it 😅
Done all that work and still got smog pump?
are you referring to the air pump which helps warm up the cats on cold starts?