$5 homemade squirrel exclusion device works much better than $175 one I bought

amzn.to/2L4nhzP ←Click this Amazon link to buy the correct 1/4 inch Mesh 24 inch Tall x 5 feet Long Hardware Cloth
The steel mesh is called "hardware cloth".
Suddenly this summer, squirrels were having a free-for-all in my attic.
The hyper-expensive trap I bought completely sucked.
I also bought two "Havahart" no-harm traps and used them on the ground near my garage, and I did manage to capture two squirrels with them.
I relocated them about 5 miles away.
But still, I could hear several more squirrels partying like it was 1999 in my garage attic.
Necessity is the mother of invention. ...so I threw something together.
It worked incredibly well, and completely eliminated the squirrels (permanently) in just one afternoon.
Complete success!
I was restored as King of my castle.
It was a great feeling getting those crappin' little bastards out of there.
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The steel mesh I used is a common item sold at hardware stores under the term "hardware cloth". I used the lightest/cheapest type (1/4-in mesh openings, 23 gauge wire) and the smallest roll available, which was still way more than I needed. I found it at a local hardware store, but you can click the Amazon link below to buy the correct 1/4 Inch Mesh 24 Inch Tall x 5 Feet Long Hardware Cloth
→ amzn.to/2L4nhzP ←
I cut three small pieces off the long single wire that bundles the whole sheet of hardware cloth tightly in a roll, to make the three hinges at the top.
The optional bottom (furthest from camera) grid layer was only for bonus lock-out protection. My goal was to expand the overall area being protected by the metal grid, because I thought they might react to being locked out by trying to chew a new entrance somewhere very near to their old familiar entrance. The outermost (top/closest to camera) hinged "door" grid panel was marked by me with a black Sharpie marker, that's why it looks weird, ...or kinda like it has a hole in it. But it's only an illusion caused by the black 'circle' I drew on it with the marker. I pressed that door grid against the building and traced the exact shape of their chewed hole onto the top middle part of it, to start things off. Then I used it as a handy template to create two more grid panels that were used as the base, actually cutting an entrance hole in those two. I'd estimate that all three grid panels are about 9x9 inches. The whole idea is for the door to be big enough that they are guaranteed to be standing on it (thereby making it impossible to open) whenever they come to investigate the entrance. So when in doubt, too big will probably work better than too small.
The green plastic discs are the "cap" of a type of standard roofing nail. The green cap might even denote the exact size/type (not sure). I used them "unmodified" in some cases, where the wood was strong enough to take the hammering. But mostly, I replaced the nails (keeping the very useful green caps) with tiny screws. Basically the little screws were just long enough to bite into the wood for a few full turns, burying some tooth into it. But with all of them together, and with the plastic caps to more broadly distribute pressure across the grid, the whole system was sturdy enough to hold up to anything a squirrel would throw at it.
This late modification was key!→ I used a lemon drop sized fishing weight (use a nut, small bolt, whatever) hanging from about 2 feet of fishing line, to help close the door better. Tie line on bottom of movable door grid, then thread line through bottom of static base grid, then attach weight and let it dangle about 2 feet down. Now the door should close instantly and securely. Without the door-closing weight, they might have quickly learned how the door works. But with the weight the door closes instantly, with no bouncing. There's no chance/time for the squirrels to learn anything.